Toyota Sienna Electrical Problems
I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
Can someone help me with the root cause to this problem? I am hoping that I can reasoning with the dealer to fix the problem by using an automotive explanation to the cause.
I appreciate any help in this matter. Thanks.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
Can someone help me with the root cause to this problem? I am hoping that I can reasoning with the dealer to fix the problem by using an automotive explanation to the cause.
I appreciate any help in this matter. Thanks.
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Comments
It would be very annoying to have to do this, but maybe you need to drop your car off overnight so they can start it cold?
It took me a long time, but I was able to find that fuse when I blew it out about a year ago when I tried to inflate air in my tires. I forget whether I used the manual or just the fuse guide on the fuse compartment, but the main point I want to make is that the fuse to which you are referring can only be purchased from Toyota. I wanted to just do it myself, but I compared the blown fuse with the extras Toyota gave me, and the fuses I had for my Acura TL. No matches. Then I went to Pep Boys and another store like that and couldn't find a match.
I forget how much it was (I think $4-6, but don't quote me), but I had to bring it in to Toyota to have them replace it.
How did your problem resolved?
Still, a new one costs less than one tank of gas nowadays. I'd just replace it. Why risk stalling after it's happened 5 times already? :confuse:
It does not do this when I turn right, when I go over speed bumps or at any other time. It does not do it if I take the turn very slow.
The Mechanics at the dealer can't figure out would cause this behavior and are at a loss to figure out where to start looking. It must be a shorted or lose sensor somewhere, but where? And why would it only do this when turning left?
I'm not anxious to have the dealer take my van's electrical system apart and test it component by component. Any geniuses out there that could help narrow down where the problem might be????
Just kidding. It's gotta be one of the power lock buttons. See if you can hold the lock button down on either side while you turn left, to see if that's the side that short circuits.
Try both sides, if holding the button makes a difference, that's gotta be the bad switch.
If that doesn't duplicate the problem, do the same thing only put it in drive, foot on the brake and turn steering wheel hard left.
If the problem pops up either way, it's a connector in the steering column or the ignition relay that thinks your engine is off.
radio/DVD player
Seat Warmer
Driver's door lock
Which troubles me as likelihood of being on one common fuse as radios etc tend to operate on very low amps fuse traditionally in most cars, compared to especially things like a seat warmer which Ive never had ,but figure any heating element drags a lot of current .
Any seconders for my idea or better still, better ideas?
If so, I'll try to talk her through a fuse check, with the aid of her handbook.
thanks
Patrick
Australia
I doubt it changed, but does the dealer have any used 07s that you can compare against?
http://www.hitchmart.com/commerce/product.jsp?prodId=1317
Good luck!
Electric door locks do not work and rear tailgate door cannot be opened. Dome lights are out but all other electrical functions are working. I changed the fuses for the door and dome lights even though the weren't blown. "Check" light came on when this started.
Is there a common wiring for these 2 processes?
thanks
But you seem to be describing a circumstance wherein a small level of "plowing"/understearing is almost a given. Braking and turning (tightly..??) at a fairly high speed. Remember that your front brakes will be responsible for 70-80% of the braking effort and "here" you have the front wheels turned at an angle, thereby maybe asking of the front tires' traction coefficient a bit more than they have to "give".
So of course the VSC will sometimes activate in that circumstance.
Throw in a bit of slipperiness to the roadbed and VSC will ALWAYS activate.
The VSC in my '01 RX300 seems to be a bit more prone to activate VSC in "your" circumstance when there is also a slight, but definite, rise in the roadbed as I turn.
Are you, by any chance, applying the brakes because you recognize your entry speed into the (tight) turn is too high...?? In that case the VSC is simply being helpful.
Wondering if you've made any progress in getting it fixed.
Thanks.
Worked fine for a while (months) then had another failure. Haven't tried cleaning yet, but only failed a couple of times. This last time it would go for an inch or 2 and stop. Then I cut off engine, restarted car, got a couple more inches. After several tries got the window up. Don't know why! Only failed a few times over several days, now ok again...BUT
Now problem others have developed--all dome lights and electric locks failed. Replaced fuses--no help. This seems to be a rare but repeated problem, per internet search. Only solution I've read about was replacing the ECM. Seems drastic! And expensive!
I've checked the owners manual, and every single small fuse in the vehicle (actually removed each one and looked at it, and put them back). I can't believe it's a bulb that would control both the dash light and heating and A/C controls back light. I've checked both fuse boxes under the hood and the one behind the small change box near the left knee. Thanks!
This exact same thing happened to me. Ask yourself: did I use the "odometer/trip meter" recently? That little twisty knob under the odometer (for some reason) doubles as a dimmer switch for all of the Indiglo dashboard panel lights (which includes the blue back light on the radio/middle display), although it isn't marked as such and although you already have another dimmer dial to the left of the steering wheel. You might have accidentally twisted the trip meter instead of pushed it and therefore dimmed your display panel and radio backlight to zero. If you do this, the OTHER dimmer switch won't work, which led me to believe it was a fuse or something worse.
A mechanic was going to charge me $1600 to replace the power supply unit! So apparently it is not widely known that this happens, even among mechanics, or else my mechanic was going to keep my Sienna for a few days, then walk out to the van, twist the little trip meter clockwise to make the blue lights come back up, and charge me nearly two thousand dollars for the service. :mad:
I'll always Google a problem I'm having with my car from now on. I saved a lot of money! :shades:
The ow
I'm a pretty good problem solver & I was afraid of what a shop diagnosis of electrical problems could cost so I started asking questions of every mechanic I could find. No one wanted to help except for one friend who was willing to print out a basic wiring diagram. I finally went to a Toyota dealership and asked the shop foreman if I could examine some wiring diagrams. He pulled the book and we looked at the individual diagrams for each of the systems with problems. There was a common element on all 3--the INTEGRATION RELAY. This might more appropriately be called a "relay integration module." This device is 2 linked circuit boards that essentially tell all the relays what to do. On the 2000 model Sienna it is in a (+/-) 2.5" X 1.5" X 5" plastic case mounted on the back side of the fuse block under the dashboard. On some cars it is integrally built into the fuse block but on this car it is a replaceable unit.
I learned that there is no way to test this part. Often technicians try to locate an identical part on another car and use it to test the system and see if that’s the problem. I checked with the Parts Department and learned that the new part was about $430! I started looking for a good salvage yard. I found one with the used part in stock for about $100. I went home and pulled and reinstalled the fuse block to see if I could actually do it. I was successful so I drove to the salvage yard and pulled the unit, popped in the replacement part, and suddenly all was right in the world. By the way—it was a good thing I pulled the part out before committing to a replacement. The part number the Toyota place gave me was not the same as on my part. I needed the actual number from my part to match the part at the salvage yard.
I hope this helps someone.
My issue I would like help with is the dash lights. The light that illuminates the Right side and center of display (speed odometer and fuel gauge) is not illuminated in addition to the Air flow selector in the center console. This makes it difficult at night. The controls all work they are just not illuminated. I looked at the fuses and there does not seem to be one that operates just these 2 lights. Also the cigarette lighter doesn't work either but that is not as much of a concern since I do not smoke.
I measure the 12.7 volts at the main power bar in the fuse box under the hood, so it leaves the battery. There must be a main fuse or relay that delivers it to EVERYWHERE else. I can't find it.
Anybody have any clues? BTW, I am in the country of Turkey and can't readily get to the, or any, US dealer where I purchased the car. I am sure it is in warranty, but no help there. Nothing to help me out at the Toyota website either.
This time dealer said it was due to rear door being left open even though the interior lights are switched off at the dashboard. The dealer said the rear door drains .5 amp even though the lights are turned off. He said it had to do with the computer trying to talk to the door or something like that.
Does anyone know if this is true?
I always lock the doors and make sure the lights turn off. If any door is open you get a beeping, so you know to go back and check which door isn't completely shut.
If my wife isn't going out much during the week and the van is left open for a few days the battery is drained. It happened to her twice so now we are careful to get all the doors closed. Doesn't make any sense to me why the doors drain so much power without any lights on.