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Mazda MX-5 Miata Starting and Stalling Problems

jerseygirl137jerseygirl137 Posts: 1
edited January 2014 in Mazda
My Miata keeps stalling while I'm driving 60+ miles/hr. Nobody can figure out what is wrong. Mazda isn't claiming up to what is wrong.

Help!!!
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Comments

  • I have a 99 Miata, 5-speed and am having a problem. The first symptom was when the car would not start a few times. It would just keep cranking. At first, I thought it might be the fuel pump, but then it did start just fine. Then while driving, the car will erratically lose power. The rpm's will drop down to almost nothing and then spike back up. It was fine for a few more minutes and then just completely lost power and shut down and would not start up again. I had the car towed to my house and tried starting it the next day and it started right up. I replaced the fuel filter as a possible remedy and took it out for a test drive and it was doing the same power-loss thing. It seems to do it most while driving at highway speeds. I drove the car to work this morning, 30 min. drive, and it was fine until the end when it started doing the power loss, even while the car was sitting at a stop light. I barely made it to work. Any ideas???
  • erics6erics6 Posts: 684
    Check with the folks at miata.net
  • jracerjracer Posts: 1
    Hi,

    We just bought a 2001 Miata with an automatic (a compromise demanded by girlfriend), and I am having the exact same problems with stalling as are jerseygirl137 and caledelaney. Miata.net has some discussion about "idle dropping" and Mazda's seeming unwillingness to acknowledge this problem, but no definitive solutions.

    My dealer mechanic is not sure and says we must go down the list replacing this and that beginning with the cam sensor, then the fuel pump, and then the coil. And even then he cannot say if the problem will be solved.

    Has anyone else had this problem, and even better, how has it been resolved? If you know any talented Miataphiles or mechanics who might be able to help, please forward them these emails. Please help, we love our Miata, but this problem might literally kill us on Atlanta highways filled with 80 mph tailgating SUVs and semis. Thanx for your help - J
  • My engine light was on. Called the Madaz dealer and for $85 he would tell me why. I visited Auto Zone and he checked it and told me I had a omissions leak or something like that, but it was not a problem to drive. I found a repair service near my work and they they ck'd out the car and told me it was a loose gas cap, but that I would have to had taken to them to have the light turned off. They charged me for $37.00. Does this sound legitimate? Would I have to have had them turn the light off?
  • uniboyuniboy Posts: 1
    I wondering if anyone has any luck fixing your miatas. I have the same problem. Engine stalling after engine gets to operating temp. My car has 169k miles just bought car. Runs great except for this intermitant problem. Replaced fuel pump and filter. Still have problem. Replaced crank position sensor. Let car idle with a/c on to get engine hot. Stalled in 30 minutes. Could not restart. After letting car cool down. Started. Sounds very simular to Jerseygirl. If anyone has come up with any solutions. I'm going to fix this car. And I will post my finding. Thanks in advance Robert email [email protected]
  • I also had that problem with my previous '92 Miata. I tried to think of when it was doing it more than others and I narrowed it to (1) buying gas from a different dealer, and (2) it was very bad when it rained. I guess the car needs to go to the Mayo Clinic. Hope Madza can figure that one out one of these days. I sold that car and purchased a 99 and have not had the trouble, but I did warn my buyer of the situation. I just got used to putting the clutch in when it happened while driving and popping it to keep going. :confuse:
  • theslucethesluce Posts: 3
    Hi J,

    I also had this problem and after much research by my mechanic (mainly) and by me (secondary) we figured out what the problem was. It is the Cam Position Sensor (CPS) and it appears to be a common problem. Many websites have information on this and several of them refer to Miata.net where you can find all kinds of Miata-based information. Here is a link of what someone wrote about our same problem:

    http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/082005/cam-position-sensor.php

    The part is roughly 80-100 dollars although a mechanic may charge more for it (mark-up). Labor isn't tough and should maybe run you another 80-120 dollars.

    Hope this helps.

    Cheers,
    Paul
  • theslucethesluce Posts: 3
    Hi Jerseygirl:

    Your problem is the Cam Position Sensor (CPS). It probably needs replacement. The part should cost somewhere around $100 and labor about the same. See my other post to another person on this same message list for more info.

    Cheers and good luck,
    Paul
  • debbiekdebbiek Posts: 2
    I also had the same problem with my 99 Miata for about a year. I cleaned the built up carbon in the manifold and the check engine light has been off ever since. Only cost me a few bucks for the throttle cleaner. YIPEE!
  • buffmx5buffmx5 Posts: 1
    Hey Robert
    hope this helps out
    Miatas are known for timing chain to "go" @ 60k hopefully you have a decent relationship w/the prev owner and you can find out what kind of modifications were made prior
    Patrick
    '00 Silver
  • kahutekkahutek Posts: 1
    Occassionally, I start my '99 Miata and the engine idles poorly, it revs up with difficulty, but it runs. Then I take it out on the highway, and after 10 minutes it starts losing power and the catalytic converter gets so hot I can smell it inside the car. This happens once a month. The runs again the next day. The engine light is on, but the mechanic says it's the safety interlock warning (or something) for an automatic trans; I have a stick shift. Now the mechanic says it's my O2 sensor and my catalytic converter needs to be replaced. What is the real problem?
  • mestullmestull Posts: 1
    I hope this helps someone. My 2005 Miata (non-turbo) started idling poorly, then progressed to stalling, and the Check Engine light came on. It sure seemed like a sensor problem. I had the codes read. There was a fair list of them. I reset the faults by momentarily disconnecting the battery. The faults came back. So I started replacing the likely sensors. Nothing helped.

    Finally, I removed the throttle body, and found the inside of the plenum behind it coated with an oily mud. The crankcase ventilator (PCV valve) spits a little oil mist in there. Then the super fine dust that finds its way through the air filter turns that into mud. I cleaned as much as I could reach and the throttle valve. That didn't fix it.

    But after thinking about it, I figured some of that oily mud may have been partially bocking the idle bleed needle valve, or the idle bypass (both located in/on the throttle body).

    So I opened the idle bleed a lot. That fixed it. I reset the faults again, and they didn't come back. So my car idles perfect (like new) and there's no Check Engine light on.

    The idle bleed needle valve is a phillips head screw, that's recessed in a hole, facing the passenger side on the top of the throttle body.

    As far as the underlying cause of the problem... The PCV valve worked fine. So I assume an oily film is normal in the plenum. I upgraded the air filter to a K & N to hopefully reduce the fine dust.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We had rough idling and power loss on our old 626 and it turned out to be dirty fuel injectors. A throttle body service fixed the issue, but at the dealer is was very pricey, about $500 IIRC.
  • bigbozer1bigbozer1 Posts: 4
    I have a 1999 10th Anniversary 6-speed. It is coming close to 90K miles now and I have not spent a dime in repairs. I use Mobile 1 oil and change every 5000 miles. I have not even changed the timing belt. I guess I have been very lucky. TOUCH WOOD! :)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Don't quote me on this but I think the engine is non-interference. You could be stranded, though.
  • lost6lost6 Posts: 2
    My niece bought a 99 Miata and ran the battery down listening to the radio. Replaced the battery, but the engine won't turn over. She left the key on over night. Any ideas?
  • ron77ron77 Posts: 2
    intermittent starting problem, cold or warm engine, rough idle, engine out of balance, smell of unburned fuel in exhaust, car is drivable, does not have acceleration or power, usually clears itself in 4-5 minutes by driving or idling. When cleared car runs like a champ. Occurs about one out of every 10 starts.
  • ron77ron77 Posts: 2
    I just joined the forum 11/19/07 and wrote no. 19 before I read the previous 18. I have a 2000 5-speed with 56,000 miles. I have had the same intermittent problem as you have described for about 5 years. At first it occurred about once per year then, about every 6 months and for the last siz months about once every 10 starts. I started by replacing plug wires and plugs. I've cleaned and lubricated plug in sensor connectors. I thought there was a correlation to the level of fuel in the tank, as it act like an old "vapor lock" issue out of the 60's. It happens with a cold engine with a car setting in the sun (90-95 degree F) and sometimes a warm engine in the cold (50 degree F). I smell unburned gas in the exhaust and I've noticed the hot catalytic converter you are talking about. Today (11/19) the car began to stall at stop lights or stop signs as the clutch was being pushed in. This to me is a separate issue from the intermittent starting problem. It is in the Mazda dealership today and the first $86 check read the codes has been spent. So far nothing is wrong. I've authorized another 2 hours of checking and eliminating the diagnostic read outs. I then plan to set down with the dealership owner then begin the slow and methodical march up through the district rep and into the colporate structure to get resolution. Do you have anymore information? ron77
  • Hey Everyone,
    My sister has been driving my Miata for some time now and yesterday the car stalled (she is not sure why) but it got towed home. Today I came to check it out and at first, when I started it up the check engine light was on. The problem I noticed is that the car starts up fine and it idles fine, the problem was that when I step on the gas it feels like it starts dying (like choking) so I have to let go of the gas for it to idle again. I started checking spark plugs, oil, etc but everything seemed fine. I kept trying to give it gas and eventually I was able to get it going to where the engine would not die when I stepped on the gas. Took it out for a ride and it seemed like it was running as if nothing had happened. I thought it was fixed, but the problem came again when I shut it off and started it up again. This time the check engine light was gone, but now the problem is that when I press the gas pedal the engine will "purr" (rpms go up) but then it will stop and pause and then it will "purr" again. So even if my foot is fully pressing the gas pedal (and staying pressed) the car will do "purr" pause "purr" pause "purr" pause "purr" etc. So it feels like it will not hold the throttle. I tried taking it out for a quick ride to see if bringing the rpms higher would help, but the car ends up sort of stalling. As I step the gas it does the "purr" pause "purr" thing in first then as I shift it to second it sort of hesitates; so it starts to accelerate then stop then accelerate again as if it was about to stall. When I stop and let go of the gas it idles good.

    I tried replacing the plugs, cleaning battery, checking throttle cable, etc but do not know what is wrong or how I could fix/diagnose what is happening. Anyone have any ideas?????

    p.s. SHe noticed that it started getting bad as she was driving in the rain, I also noticed that the exhaust as it was warming up kept throwing whiteish smoke and water drops from it. Not sure if the rain has something to do with it (i.e. water in the engine)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Do you have an ODBII scanner? It would help if we knew that error code.

    My educated guess is it's the spark plug wires. Those only last ~30k miles on the Miata. I'm already on my 3rd set.

    Spark or fuel, as they say. If the fuel filter is not clogged up and the fuel pump is OK, it's probably the spark, so I'd look there first.
  • uselmanuselman Posts: 5
    :) I had the same problem. I had bought the car used and the folks at mazda said it was most likely caused by the sparkplugs. Possibly the previous owner had gotten their plugs changed (where-ever) and apparently it is a good idea to use mazda plugs otherwise you can damage the coil-pack and in my case also a converter which fortunately was still under the manufacturers warranty at the time. I still get my tune-ups done at other places but I stop by mazda first and buy the plugs. After replacing the coil-pack, sparkplug cables, and the converter it was fine. Hopefully in your case it's just the coil-pack.
  • uselmanuselman Posts: 5
    O.K.. I get up this morning for work. The Miata starts perfectly, I drive to work, no problems. I come out at the end of the day and it won't turn over. It has electrical power, it has gas, but out of the blue it just won't turn. Any advice? :sick: :sick: :mad:
  • cwybengacwybenga Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 miata standard and have been having some trouble with the car running only on 2 cylinders. It starts fine cold, but hot starts running on 2 cylinders only. If you pull the second plug wire off and put it back on it corrects the problem. The engine light came on and I have taken it in to the dealership to have a diagnostic done. It shows an error code of low efficiency for the catalytic converter but am taking it in next week to do more tests. All maintenance has been done. Could it be the coil??? This morning I was out and this problem appeared while I was driving which was a first. I was in third gear and all of a sudden it lost 2 cylinders. I pulled over and pulled the plug wire for a second and this fixed the problem.
  • I have a 95 Miata that had a theft deterrent system in it (similar to an alarm system) that had a defective solenoid that acted the same way. Took out the system and the Miata has been perfect since
  • cwybengacwybenga Posts: 4
    My stalling issue is fixed after a heafty bill. Don't mind spending the money as long as it is going to fix the problem. Replaced the ignition wires, pair of coils, and a new gasket. Runs like new.
  • branbuffybranbuffy Posts: 5
    My Miata (41,000 miles) has intermittant starting issues. It simply won't start. There doesn't seem to be a consistancy to it's non-starting issue. It will crank/ turn over -but it just won't start. I have new spark plugs now, but it is still being onary. Any ideas? The crank sensor has been adjusted as well.
    :mad: :confuse:
  • branbuffybranbuffy Posts: 5
    Did you get the problem resolved? if so, how?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    As they say, spark or fuel.

    You've replaced the plugs, so next thing to check are the plug wires. I've replaced mine twice already (every 30k). That's most likely.

    Do the 99s have an ignition coil? If so that would be my next guess.

    Beyond that I'd look at the fuel system - filter, fuel pump, etc.
  • branbuffybranbuffy Posts: 5
    My mechanic replaced the plugs and wires and crank sensor. Then I went to drive it home and the check engine light came on. The car started to sputter/ and smell like sulphur. :mad:
    So the car was taken back to the garage (towed) :sick: and the mechanic ordered a new ignition coil saying 'that should fix it". Jeez I seriously hope so. Can an ignition coil really be the problem? Wouldn't sulphur smell lead to the catalytic converter? :confuse:
    I live in a super small town and the closest Mazda dealersip is 3 hours away! I haven't taken that route because I totally trust my mechanic -he's not a swindling type. I just want to know as much as I can. Knowledge is power.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm no expert, but I would be trying the exact same thing, so the mechanic does sound honest.

    Basically you replace things in order of cost, cheapest stuff first.
  • cwybengacwybenga Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 miata that started choking and only running on 2 cyl's. Opened the hood and removed a plug wire and the other 2 cyl's started again. Took the car in because the engine light was on and test after test, changed the coils. Light was still on changed the front o2 sensor, light was still on, changed the back o2 sensor light was still on. My mechanic was stumped, like you I trust my mechanic even though he wasn't from Mazda. He was not convinced that the cat had enough km's on it to need changing since the price from Mazda was 1500.00. Finally had enough and got a cat from Nappa 450.00 and replaced it myself. No light on anymore. After 2500.00 in repairs the car is good as new. I am guessing that when the 2 cylinders crapped out that it put unburned fuel into the cat, causing more problems.
  • branbuffybranbuffy Posts: 5
    Is the cat welded on or clamped on? How hard was it to replace it?
  • branbuffybranbuffy Posts: 5
    Was your Miata within the Emission Warranty of 8 years or 80,000 miles? Given my latest Check Engine code PO420, I luckily will fall into the warranty and get my cat replaced some time this month. Or at least that's what I have been told. :surprise:
  • I have the same problem: The engine starts without a problem, but at the first stop light it stalls when I use the clutch... when the engine is warmed up the problem is gone.

    Fuel filter is already replaced and the ignition is also checked, nothing helped. Ron, do you know what caused the problem?

    Thierry.
  • Hi everyone. Without boring you all to death, I have had EVERY single problem with my Mx5 described in this forum. I have had it since new, and probs started at 10,000 kms with the low rev drops/ stalls at intersections and has gone all the way to spluttering and stalling and not restarting for 20-30 mins. Has been at repairers from 1 day to 3 months and until today has NEVER been solved. BUT!!! One word COIL! Let me explain...
    They have TWO coils driving 2 cylinders each. The coils in MX5's/ Miata's begin to fail, not by dying by by DIMMING. (Induction dimminishing intermittantly) As the spark in one coil becomes weaker with it's partner coil, your car Will idle erratically on TWO cylinders. (Engine also 'pinks' as lack of spark uses the compression to finish the explosion, once its at the top of the cylinder movement) The failing one IS producing a spark, but is a little dim orange one not a big blue BANG! The fuel doesn't completely burn and gives the illusion of the Fuel/air ratio been out. (You can smell raw fuel yet normal exhaust at the same time) The computer is constantly trying to adjust the fuel to match the info from the caddy convertor, which is a mixture of 2 correctly burning cylinders and 2 that are filling with raw fuel. Hence- idle up down, purr, choke, stall etc. Then it will not restart as the plugs have drowned in unburned fuel deposits and raw fuel and the spark is too weak to combat this. The failing coils primary resistance is too high from being hot, ie 2.0 ohms + instead of 0.72 to 0.94 ohms to chuck out a good spark, which is why it restarts when it cools down. Then, wherever the weak link in the coil is can suddenly make a good contact again- and away she goes for another year... then suddenly... she won't restart after a short run...(#$%@**#)

    I was fooled doing the 'It's either fuel (theres tons of it) or no spark" tests, as when removed, the plugs WOULD fire when the lead was attached to the plug and the plug earthed on the engine to test. I finally noticed when faulting, 2 cyclinders produced a blue bright spark, and the other 2 produced a dim orange spark. The secondary coils (that the leads plug into) read 12k ohms each as they should so had not been investigated further. I took the coils out completely (easy as- took 2 minutes) and measured the primary coil underneath the housing and got my answer. (finally- $4 grand of repairs that never worked later...)
    The car has not run correctly for 9 years and today, after putting new coils in (20 minute job to change wires over and install) and she goes like a bat out of heck now. DON"T just do one coil... do both.

    Once this is done, check you have the NKG B5 sparks- (Cold plugs) not the NKG B6 (hot type) as they self clean really well. Both are specced by mazda- but are factory fitted with the B5's..Then short a wire between GND and pin 10 in the Diagnostic plug to by pass the ECU and see if it idles at 700-850 revs at full temp. If not, you mixture is out, and the air bypass is the screw under the cap on the throttle. CAREFULLY - Clockwise is richer (lowers the revs) and anti clockwise weakens the mix (increases the revs at idle) You will hear the air start to 'wisk' thru the manifold when you start to get it right....After this, the computer will run your car correctly.
    I chewed the ear of my Mazda dealer / repaired today, and he finally ADMITTED they had known that the coils cause this fault in many many many MX5s and have replaced TONS of them with all the symptoms described in this forum.... but are encouraged to blame the fault on the cars been just old and encourage the owner to purchase a new engine as the fault could be 'Anything' (yeah right). I am being 100% serious that he said this..
    Good luck =)
    Good luck.
  • Thank you very much for post!

    My car is in the garage (again) at the moment, still for that problem. I have already replaced one coil that completely failed, BUT not the other one!

    With some luck I can finally have it fixed.
  • Heii, Excuse me but did you ever find the solution to the problem you had?
    Because people I have the same problem, I have a Mazda mx3, It doesnt start, well sometime it starts and then it dies, I hit on above 2 - 3 Rpm and it dies, I dont know what the problem is, We changed the gas tank and we charged the battery also. But we havent figured out what the problem is.. Can SomeBody help me.
    Thanks. Alrassam ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    As they say, spark or fuel.

    Could be the fuel pump, or a bad fuel filter.

    On the spark side, how old are the spark plugs? My Miata also ate through spark plug wires every 30k miles, that may be the most likely cause if the wires are older. Beyond that check the ignition coil, too.

    I bet it's your spark plug wires.
  • tony125tony125 Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I have a MX-5 California -2001 and, guess what? It starts first thing then, after about twenty mins or so it starts to lose power and stops!! No engine light, no smell?? Have changed the puel filter, crank sensor and also had the coils renewed today and on the way home stoped for about ten minutes then wouldn't start again, after abou a half hour wait it started and got me home- I'm tearing (whats left of) my hair out. I don't know what else to change, I'd like to change the car but if it won't start I can't sell it!!
    Any experts out there please cuz Mechanics don't seem to know whats wrong.!!!!!!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    It must be heat related.

    How old are the plugs and plug wires?
  • mmaxeymmaxey Posts: 3
    I'm new to the forum, and signed up because I am having the same issues with my 1999 Miata as 'uniboy' in post #7 and havent been able to find a solution. Last year I changed my timing belt and water pump. In the past couple of days since I've been having this problem, I've changed the spark plugs, s.p. wires, coil pack, fuel filter, and fuel pump, and still having the issue. It will run great until it gets warm, then stumble, sputter, misfire, and stall. Once the engine is cool again, it'll start up nice and smooth, until its warm, then do it all again. Needless to say, it's undrivable until I find a fix.

    Does anyone have the solution? Please e-mail: M_Maxey_2000 at yahoo dot com
  • uselmanuselman Posts: 5
    Are you using mazda plugs. Sounds wierd but for some reason it makes a difference with these cars. I had a similar problem which is fixed now but I don't think we ever resolved what actually started it. They simply replaced my coil pack and plugs and also a converter that had gone bad in the process but the folks at Mazda were unsure as to what started it. They said it could have been the wrong plugs or extreme carbon build-up. I bought the car used and they were telling me that a lot of Miata owners especially older females tend to drive them too gently and that they need to be reved pretty good to blow out the carbon. You might try carburator cleaner and make sure you have Mazda plugs. Other than that maybe a bad sensor. Sorry I don't have something more definite. My brother knows a lot more than me so I'll check with him and message you back. Cheers- Greg
  • mmaxeymmaxey Posts: 3
    Thanks for the suggestion, I'm using ngk plugs and wires and have since I've owned the car with no problems. I'm starting to lean towards the cam position sensor giving me the issues, but I'm looking for some backup on that, haha. Thanks for the help. If you hear of anything else, please drop me a note.
  • uselmanuselman Posts: 5
    My brother said it could be the Idle Air Control Sensor. This sensor works once the car warms and controls air intake at stops. He said not to buy a new one because it most likely needs just to be cleaned. He said this is most likely the case if you do not have a check engine light on. Hope this helps. Good luck. All in all they really are great cars though. Mine is at 200110 miles and still runs really well. Starting to burn a little oil on long trips though but I guess thats to be expected with that kind of miles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    they need to be reved pretty good to blow out the carbon

    Ah, the good ol' Italian Tune-up.
  • I bet it's the Cam Position Sensor (CPS). This is a super well known issue for the 2001 Miata. Check out the forum on Mazda.net for help with it:

    http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=274730

    Down the page some is even a photo of where to find the CPS if you don't know where to find it already. It's SUPER easy to replace and will probably cost you about $80 - $100 for the part. Undue one bolt, slide out the CPS, slide in the new CPS, tighten bolt ... you're good to go.

    You can pull the CPS out, give it a good cleaning, chill it with another cars A/C or another way, stick it back in and see if that temporarily helps. It might but you probably just need to get a new CPS. This problem is so common it's unbelievable. They need to recall the car over it. I just don't think there have been enough complaints. If you would like to file a complaint with the NHTSA then you can either call them or file a report here:

    http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm

    Hope it works out for you.

    Cheers,
    Paul
  • mmaxeymmaxey Posts: 3
    Well, i just installed my new CPS. I let the car get warm then stall with the old one first, then put the new one in. I started it up afterwards and its still doing the same thing! Do i need to let the motor cool first?

    I need more ideas...

    I misspoke when i said I replaced the fuel pump, I did not. I replaced the filter. It's still hard to believe that's the culprit because I can rev it and accelerate just fine until the engine gets warm and then it fails. Is it really the fuel pump?

    Where is the idle air control sensor on a 99?
  • uselmanuselman Posts: 5
    I'm waiting for a reply from my brother about the sensors location. I've never dealt with one before. If it is your fuel pump the good news is replacing a fuel pump on a miata is rediculously simple. Mine had similar problems when the fuel pump was bad but I don't remember if it had to be warm first. Anyway if you want some info on replacing the pump let me know and I'll message you as soon as I hear back about the sensor. Cheers-Greg.
  • Hi, I have the same exact issue on my 2001 MX5. runs for a few hours, then stalls. I replace the fuel pump(very simple), but the issue continued... I just replced the CPS. Now, my car won't start. It sounds like it wants to start, but it doesen't. Do I need to mess with the timeing? I moved a sensor thta is located in the front by the pully where teh timeing scale is. Does that something to do with it? I removed thinking that it was the CPS(relize the '01 in the teh back side of engine), but then I placed it back. Does this sensor needs to be at a certain angle? Not, teh CPS, but teh one I moved by mistake....
  • Hi, I have the same exact issue on my 2001 MX5. runs for a few hours, then stalls. I replace the fuel pump(very simple), but the issue continued... I just replced the CPS. Now, my car won't start. It sounds like it wants to start, but it doesen't. Do I need to mess with the timeing? I moved a sensor thta is located in the front by the pully where teh timeing scale is. Does that something to do with it? I removed thinking that it was the CPS(relize the '01 in the teh back side of engine), but then I placed it back. Does this sensor needs to be at a certain angle? Not, teh CPS, but teh one I moved by mistake....
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