2013 and earlier Mazda CX-9 Prices Paid and Buying Experience

nastacio

For awhile, the option packages were deal breaker for us, since reviews by the major magazines were unanimous about the harsh ride for the 20" in the GT but we wanted Xenon headlights. After a test-drive, we didn't mind the ride and the CX-9 was back in our list.

I wouldn't mock the Highlander, it is faster and probably more capable dynamically than a CX-9. "Handling" is subjective on anything 200" long and weighting more than 4000lbs.

maverick8

Have any of you really' driven an Outlook / Acadia AWD? preferably the 275 hp model.

moisty

I haven't driven the Outlook/Acadia but I plan on doing it on my next days off.
We looked at the Acadia and it was nice inside albeit it was the $42,000 all the bells and whistles, it had some options that we wouldn't choose, but for a $42,000 car I wasn't that impressed.
The fact that the rails that the seats slide back and forward on were not covered up seemed cheap to me, I can just see myself picking french fries and dog hair out of those once a year to keep the seats free.
The Saturn I know is based on the same platform as the Acadia, but like my wife say's "Honey it's a Saturn! Why if it's the same is it cheaper" Can't argue with that.
I'm also gooing to take the new 2008 Highlander out for a test drive too.
I keep you guys posted.

I keep coming back to the CX-9 despite of the price, my wife says she prefers the look of the Acadia (I don't, but hey! it's not my car) and she says the Highlander is growing on her, but if she wanted a Toyota she'd get the 4 runner which I don't like at it's got a God awfull interior (IMHO, sorry 4 runner fans) and the gas milage sucks.

nastacio

The fact that the rails that the seats slide back and forward on were not covered up seemed cheap to me, I can just see myself picking french fries and dog hair out of those once a year to keep the seats free.

As a counterpoint (and I test-drove both,) the covers in the CX-9 tracks get in the way of big feet :-)

If you don't care for the cheapness, don't even try to step between the tracks on Acadia/Outlooks equipped with the bench seat on second row; there was no flooring panel there.

moisty

Good point, as an afterthought I would opt for the bench seat anyway, so it probably wouldn't be a problem.

So which one did you like the best, the cx-9 or the Acadia?

nastacio

I test-drove an Outlook, but the complaints I had would be shared by the Acadia given the same materials and design.

The CX-9 treats the driver better, from the steering wheel height (too low in the Outlook,) the separate stalks for windshield wiper control (personal preference,) the instrument illumination (in the GT,) the materials, the smoother transmission, the sound insulation, etc.

Other than in the GT trim, I think the Acadia/Outlook look better than the CX-9. Those 20" wheels make all the difference in the CX-9 stance.

moisty

I agree with you, the CX-9 that I sat in (but did not drive yet) does treat the driver better.

I currently drive a 2007 GMC Sierra that has the same dash layout as the Acadia so I am not adverse to the Acadia, I just felt the CX-9 enveloped the driver.

I'm sure it will boil down to the driving of each vehicle including the new Highlander also.

Yes those 20" wheels do make the CX-9 sexy

mkumar

I went to the Billion Mazda dealer in Sioux Falls. After I showed him the Fitzmall.com printouts he agreed to sell me for $500 over invoice price. So I finalized 2008 Cx9 Touring model with (i)Moon roof and bose system, (ii) compass with autodimming mirror for $34000 before title and tax. Then we discussed about finacing the car, he offered me 7.5% APR for 48months (he told me my credit score was 686) I came home and checked the mazda website it tells 3.9% APR incentive offer. I applied for it online and was approved for it. Then I called Mazda American credit to confirm the interest rate. They are telling me that the interest rate will be decided by the dealer. If feel like this is full of crap. Can anyone explain me whether I am being cheated. Is $34000 an OK price? 7.5% seems to be on the higher side any suggestions will be welcomed.
Thanks

warever

A dealer can make money in a number of different places.

First is on the price of the car. The higher the price of the car relative to the price they paid for it, the more money they make. The lower the price they sell to you, the less money they make.

Next is on your trade-in (if you have one). The more they give you for it versus what they can sell it for (usually at auction), the less money they make. So they may give you a good price on your new vehicle and then give you a lousy price on your trade-in and make up the money there. You may never even KNOW that you're being had on the trade-in.

Next place is worthless accessories. That "interior protectant" costs them a few bucks but they typically charge $500 or more for it - and generally, the "warranty" requires that you pay to have it reapplied every year. Nothing wrong with a Lo-Jack, but if you can get it installed afterwards for $300, there's no reason to have the dealer "include" it with the car for $1,000. Yes, they'll try to talk you into high profit extras that you probably don't need or want and/or can get cheaper elsewhere.

Yet another place for them to make money is on the financing. Few people realize this because they just ASSUME that the dealer is giving them the best financing that you qualify for directly from the bank. The reality is that MANY dealers actually MARK UP the financing!!! You may qualify for 3.9% but the dealer may tell you that you'll get 7.5% - and most people will just assume that the dealer is telling the truth (that you qualify only for 7.5%). Nope, the dealer is making that 3.6% spread - and that can be a LOT of profit for them (at least an extra grand or two).

The best way of buying a car is to come in pre-approved for your own financing. Many banks and credit unions offer car loans at reasonable rates (maybe not as good as a factory rate). Go to a few banks (including your own), see what they'll give you, and then go to the dealer knowing that you can get at LEAST what the banks are giving you. If the dealer give you better, great. If not, then you don't need the dealer financing.

You can also always go to more than one dealer and see what they'll give you.

Incidentally, lest you think that this might affect your credit score (getting multiple inquiries), it shouldn't; most FICO scoring treats multiple inquiries within a short period of time for a single loan as a single inquiry.

Cheated? Cheated is when they say that you'll get 5% and then charge you 7.5%. You're just being had. (grin)

Seriously, I'd look for another dealer. Maybe you'll pay a bit more for the car (maybe $700 over invoice) but get better financing. Oh, and make them SHOW you the invoice or already KNOW what it is from web sites like KBB and MSN Autos (and Edmunds, of course).

crikey

I wouldn't mock the Highlander, it is faster and probably more capable dynamically than a CX-9. "Handling" is subjective on anything 200" long and weighting more than 4000lbs.

Going by the Popular Mechanics New Crossover Vehicles: Comparison Test, it is faster than the 2007 CX-9. It may be different against the 3.7L in the 2008 model. And lateral acceleration between the 2 cars were not too far apart. Now, the Highlander returns better fuel economy compared to the CX-9, but the CX-9 seems to provide more utility and ease for a 7-passenger crossover. So, it really boils down to what is most important to the buyer. I do like that the CX-9 has HIDs and 20" rims, and I do prefer its styling over the Highlander. But, if I place more value on the Toyota brand and better fuel economy, the Highlander would be my choice.

moisty

Mkumar is correct, I work as a finance manager in a motorcycle store and there are basically two rates.

The Buy Rate (this is what the dealers gets from the lienholder)
The Dealers rate (this can be anything for one to three points higher)

As for the price of the car that seems like a great deal for a 2008 CX-9 GT with all those goodies

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 ???? under invoice.

08 CX-9 ???? under invoice.

mkumar

Got a 2007 CX9 grand touring package, which was in the lot for 34,669 (with navigation, towing package, moon roof, sirus, wheel lock, cargo net) which was the Splan/invoice price for it at 0% APR for 36 months. I got tired of haggling, so just liked the car and got and like it very much.

mkumar

thank you very much for the detailed response. Helped me a lot in my purchase.

warever

Glad I could be of help.

You know, it is funny that I still "hang out" in here. Back in March when the lease on my 2003 RX300 was up, I was most seriously looking at the new RX350, the RX400h hybrid, and the CX-9.

I actually ended up getting the RX400h (not the CX-9) and am certainly more than happy with the vehicle (and as a lease, it is really costing me no more than the CX-9 would have). But then, I keep thinking that the extra space in the CX-9 would have been nice (and I DO think they're prettier than the Lexus). Wish I had the money and the space to get both. (grin)

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 ???? under invoice.

Keep posting those good deals.

bill124

I agree with Seloo. Even easier is just posting price paid vs. final line of sticker. Thanks to all.

bobw3

If you don't know the entire terms of the deal: accessories purchases, financing, extended warranty, trade-in, dealer location, etc., just knowing the actual price of the car doesn't mean too much in a real world deal. But I'm sure when you print-out some of these edmunds posts and take them to the dealer they'll give you what others have been posting

outsidegurl

Hi to you all...I apologize upfront for this being lengthy, but I thought maybe I could help you out with what I've learned before I pose some questions of my own...

I have recently begun the time consuming, confusing, learning trek to purchasing a new vehicle. I have found the "downlow" available on the internet a blessing as well as overwhelming as I need plenty of time to disaggregate all of the info before I can move on.

My plan is to have something before the snow flies in Michigan as I have a Jeep Wrangler and don't want it to see the salt!

Anyway, my adventure began with thinking about a truck or Crossover. (I returned a leased 2004 Ford F150 back in February of '07). I drove the Toyota Tacoma (loved it, but it doesn't come with a sunroof and leather, and unfortunately, that is a dealbreaker for me). I drove the Tundra which was beautiful, but I didn't care for the ride so much. My F-150 rode very smooth, and the Tundra felt squishy at times to where it actually upset my stomach at a few bumps.(This is a completely personal subjective opinion, so I hope not to offend).

I then decided to look at the crossovers and drove an '08 Highlander Limited. The first drive I was in awe, but I think it was because it was so sleek and clean, and luxurious compared to my stark Jeep Wrangler! After I went back and did some more research, and then drove it a few days later, I didn't like it as much. For lack of a better term, it felt "floaty" and didn't feel sporty enough for me. However, it is larger and I understand, the clean sheet put it on the avalon body instead of the camry. I think I'd like to try driving the Sport model to see if it is a better ride for me.

We tried the RAV4, which I thought would be great for my needs, but my boyfriend who is 6 5 1/2" was just too smoonched...damn! Oh well!

We then tried the '08 Subaru Tribeca. That, in my opinion, is gorgeous...I know it did not receive such high accolades when they first came out (the front pig snout look)...anyhoo, you feel like you're in an airplane cockpit...very cool, but the overall power performance, even though it has improved, is a little too low for my needs...I tow motorcycles and seadoos...

Yesterday, we went and drove the '07 Mazda Touring CX9. I wanted to drive the '08, but the dealer didn't have it, and said the two years were the same. Well, that's not true because the '08 engine gained some ponies and went from a 3.5-3.7 L engine, and there's a few more options and standards...like the blind spot detector. Anyway, I instantly loved it, but the sales guy rode with us, and that was awkward because I felt stymied and couldn't really "try" it. I have since read many reviews, have visited forums, and am overall pleased with how it was rated. I'm a little concerned about resale, as Mazda isn't "UP THERE" with Honda and Toyota, so I'm still not completely sold.

We then drove the '08 Saturn Vue and '08 Outlook. I wasn't even going to consider American (for various reasons), but the reviews suggested to not overlook the Outlook , and since we were there, we tried the Vue, too. Both are appealing to me, and they did a great job making the outside of the Outlook appear smaller than the inside. It is not as sporty and tight a ride as the Mazda, but it has its own merits. I would say that the Saturns may be a 2nd or 3rd choice for me right now, with the Mazda being in the number 1 slot.

I'm not going to consider the Honda Pilot because it is supposed to get a clean sheet for '09, and I'm afraid I won't be happy with all of the changes if I'm "stuck" with an '08, and for my tastes, the looks of the current Pilot are too plain.

I'm still thinking about driving the Hyundai Santa Fe, but the '08s so far haven't been released. I saw the bigger Hyundai, the Vera Cruz, and I didn't like the body style as much as the others I'm considering, and I thought it had a pretty hefty price tag without such amenities as a navigation system.

I definitely will want to try driving all of the cuvs again once I narrow down to my top 3. I think it's imperative to do this as once the emotional novelty of getting a new vehicle turns into the logical decision making mode, it's always good to go back and see if it still fits your requirements in a vehicle.

So, now that I've given you my experiences, I have a few questions for all of you expert shoppers/consumers out there...
Regarding the '08 Grand Touring (GT)...I have read that the 20" tires give a much rougher ride due to the low profile of the tires. I am also concerned about the cost of replacing those buggers, and I'm not too thrilled about the fake wood grain in the interior. But, I would love to have the blind spot detector, the puddle lamps, fog lamps, and a few other things that this trim level offers.

I'm considering the Touring and decking it out as much as possible. I can keep it under $40,000 MSRP. Do you know if I can offer invoice or below?

If I decide to purchase, and based on someone's prior suggestion,(thank you) I'm thinking of getting preapproved for financing beforehand, and will probably need to put 20% or more down to get my payments lower.

I have been leasing for the last 10 years, and am not sure if I should do that again.

Any input anyone can give me on whether to lease or buy (based on my info shared), GT versus T, or anything you think would be beneficial to my decision, I'd greatly appreciate it!

Thanks for your time, and good luck to you!

:shades:

bobw3

Have you looked at any of the 2row CUVs (Edge, CX-7, etc) or do you have the need to seat 7 on occasion?

bolair0121

The Edge is bas on the CX 9. Depending on how many people are in your family if you need the 3 rd row. If you don't just lay them down.

bolair0121

If your S-plan you get whatever incentives dealer gets from Mazda. So you buy for invoice less Stair Step, Dealer Cash. In Texas it's invoice less 500 Stair Step.

bolair0121

Did you get the additional 500 in stair step money that your entitle to?

bolair0121

With out Navigation 90 days or less.

seloo

Please post your deal in terms of $ under the invoice price.

07 CX-9 $0 under invoice. At invoice.

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice. Dealer claims he will sell at this price.


Keep posting those good deals.

bobw3

08 CX-9 $500 under invoice
Any more details on this deal you care to share?

ecs1

I can completely relate to your experience. I'm currently in the market for a new CUV and have been test driving for the past 3 months. I currently have an '01 Highlander (seats 5) and didn't want to consider a new one...but more on that later.

My first stop in the car search was the Volvo XC-90, but I didn't feel it was worth the $$. Same for the Acura MDX. These cars are all over my neighborhood, and I hear people rant and rave about their MDX. But the new design looks ugly to me, and I can't part with that much money.

I didn't even consider the Pilot bec it looked like my Highlander on steroids and I knew they'd be coming out with a new model in '09.

I decided to get off my high horse and test drive the Highlander....and I LOVED it. Thought it was a smooth ride, a sweet ride. But I had already owned a Highlander for 6 years and couldn't bring myself to own another for an additional 6 years. (I actually ordered one through the dealer; waited 3 weeks for it to come by boat, truck, etc. Drove it and thought it was boring. Zzzzzzzzzzzz. I think the middle seat stow-n-go is a waste of space. And the exterior is dull, dull, dull.)

I then moved on to an Acadia. With each test drive (and I drove it 4 or 5 times), I felt I was driving a monster truck. It felt sluggish and heavy. But I loved the look of it, the features and all the space it provided. I special ordered one in my choice of colors and features. Four weeks later, it arrived at the dealer. I test drove it and took it back--it was just too big for me. I love the idea of the Acadia and think it's a great looking CUV. But it's big...certainly bigger than I need/want.

In the meantime, I had seen the CX-9 but blew it off because I had already decided upon the Acadia. But, once the Acadia was done and gone from the picture, I went back to the CX-9. (I had also looked at the Tribeca. It was cute, but too small for me and the reviews weren't good enough.)

To make a long (and boring) story short, I've opted to buy a Touring CX-9, with the touring assist package included (nav, back up camera, rear lift gate). I like that the body style is completely different from my '01 Highlander. And I like that it's very driveable, unlike my experience with the Acadia. I test drove the GT once, and it wasn't the ride for me, but I've read lots of great consumer reviews about it.

If I were you, I wouldn't rule out the Highlander just yet. Did you test drive the Sport? If I didn't currently own a Highlander, I probably wouldn't find the '08 boring. My '01 Highlander has never given me an ounce of trouble--it's been a very reliable car.

Best of luck!

I have spent endless hours test driving, reading these forums, reading car reviews and test driving even more. I've come to the conclusion that nothing's perfect. But I like that I could get lots of bells and whistles in the CX-9 without spending 40K+. If only they could work on the MPG. It's pretty bad.

seloo

Funny you mention that, the offer was posted by a dealer, but the post was removed (#432) by the host. I think it is against Edmunds policy for dealers to post offers.

pjette

I have a deposit down on an 08 with dvd/bose, wheel locks, remote start, and cargo net/mat. price is 36,000. from what i'm reading this doesn't look so good. any thoughts?

bobw3

That's what I thought.

seloo

Based on the information you provided, there is no way to evaluate your deal. What is the invoice price of your car?
What did it cost for the extras?

warever

Leasing versus buying depends on a number of factors and often, the best person to ask for advice is your accountant. But come prepared with real world numbers to compare.

One "mistake" that people often make when leasing a car is putting down a lot of money so they can reduce their monthly payments. That's usually a bad idea because you are still giving money to the dealer for the car... you're just making yourself think that the vehicle doesn't cost you as much as it really does. For instance, if you've got a $500 a month, 48 month lease and put down $4,000, your REAL cost of the vehicle over those 4 years is 500x48+4000 = $28,000. That's really equivalent to $583 a month with no down.

If you can write off the use of the vehicle (for instance, if it is mostly for business use), with a lease, you can write of the actual lease amount every month (at least, the percentage used for business). With a purchase, you'd have to depreciate the vehicle over quite a few years and the more expensive the vehicle, the longer it will take you to depreciate it. On an expensive vehicle, you may find that you simply won't have it long enough to depreciate fully.

How long you intend to keep the vehicle is also a factor. If you realistically get new vehicles every 3-4 years, then most likely, a lease is less expensive because with a purchase, you'd probably be paying all along anyway. On the other hand, if you tend to keep vehicles for 10 years before getting a new one, then with a purchase, you'll have at least 4 or 5 years of no payments (depending on how long you finance the vehicle).

If you drive a lot, then a lease might not be for you, either. Leases generally come with certain mileage limits, often 8K, 10K, 12K, or 15K miles per year. Average for most people is 12K miles per year but this will vary. Know that if you're above, you'll wind up having to pay quite a bit per mile at the end of the lease - so you might have to come up with several thousand dollars at the end. If you KNOW you're going to be over, get a lease with more miles up front or buy miles up front if they'll discount them for you. But remember, if you buy extra miles (or have a higher lease limit), then you're not going to get a refund and you're just paying extra for no reason.

In any case, if you drive a lot, then the added mileage expense of a lease might make it more expensive than a purchase.

With a lease, you usually have to return the vehicle in pretty good condition or end up paying excess wear and tear fees. If you like to modify your cars - repainting, adding permanent luggage carriers, aftermarket radios, engine mods, etc. - then a lease probably isn't for you. If you like to drive offroad, then a lease may also not be for you because they may not allow it (and you COULD get away with it, but if they find out, you could be in trouble).

One huge difference between a lease and a purchase (besides the fact that you own nothing at the end of a lease) is that with a purchase, you're paying for the entire purchase price of the car plus interest. With a lease, you're basically paying for the difference between the purchase price of the car and what it is worth at the end of the lease plus interest. In other words, you're sort of paying for the amount of the car you've "used" (the value that it has lost).

What that really means is that interest rates being equal, if you buy a car that's worth twice as much, you'll be paying twice as much. But with a lease, you may NOT be paying twice as much for a vehicle that's worth twice as much because it all depends on the spread between the purchase price (technically called the "cap cost" in a lease) and the value at the end (technically called the "residual")

As an example, if you're got one vehicle that's got a selling price of $25,000 and a residual of $10,000 after 3 years, that's a depreciation of $15,000. But another vehicle that's worth $35,000 might wind up being worth $25,000 after 3 years - making the depreciation only $10,000. What that means is that the more expensive vehicle might actually cost you LESS in a lease than the cheaper vehicle.

That's actually why my RX400h wasn't really much more expensive than a CX-9 would have been - because the RX400h keeps far more of its value and so the drop in value was similar, even though the RX400h is probably at least $10,000 more expensive to purchase.

I know you were probably looking for a "yes, lease" or "yes, buy" answer but the real answer is that it depends on a bunch of different factors that only YOU can answer. You LITERALLY have to sit down and figure out how much each method (leasing versus buying) would cost you over some period of time (often, how long you'd keep a purchased car is a good time period to use).

By the way, too many people choose leasing over buying because they simply want a more expensive car than they can really afford and can't afford the monthly payments of a purchase. However, in the end, they wind up paying MORE for a lease.

Hope this helps.

kcgille

Just wanted to share my experience. I hope I got a decent deal...2008 Touring, blue mica in color, sand leather, entertainment pkg and roof rails are the only options I purchased. MSRP was 35k and some change, purchased at $31,933. I do regret no fog lights, but otherwise, very happy with my purchase. I looked into the gamut of these type vehicles and didn't want to spend the money on some, loved the look and space of the Acadia, but was too sluggish and rather loud (road and wind noise). Liked the Murano, which would have been my second choice, though it is smaller than the 9. My sale price was $500 under invoice, but they wouldn't go any lower...I tried A LOT!

Consumer reports did but the bottom line pricing for "my" car at $31,600 if you add in the options. Hope this post helps, I enjoyed reading all the comments/experiences you guys shared.

seloo

Did you pay any document fees or ad-on fees?

Thanks

bobw3

any trade-ins or financing involved?

carteach

Wondering if anyone knows the following: what people have been paying for a 2007 CX-9 w/ touring w/ AWD. If there are only few 07 left will they still bargain on them?

BTW... I'm looking in the metropolitan NY area...(Westchester/Putnam)or Western 1/2 of CT.

Thanks for any information you can share.

kbedwards

08 GT Platinum Gray with black lthr.
Assist pkg
Towing Pkg
RSE
cargo net
compass/autodim mirror with homelink
Roof Rails.
Wheel locks

MSRP = $40,668 (that number is according to dealer, carsdirect says MSRP is $40,150)
Your price = 37,944

Now revised to $37,744 after another round of negotiating.

I am going to offer $37,225 final and walk if they won't do it. Prices quoted include everything but tax title and tag (yes, even ad fees).

Carsdirect, which includes ad fees in their "target price" has it at $37,891, and an invoice price of $37,041 (that price also includes ad fees I believe)

Thing is, I don't WANT the towing package, so I am asking them to cut the cost of it in half. Does the towing package add weight or bulk to the car?

Thanks

seloo

Double check all your numbers.

Are there other fees in this deal. (like a doc fee?)

Did you account for the $500 difference in the MSRP (they could be padding the price)?

Are you trading?

Do not be in a hurry, unless you must have a new car soon because you do not already have a car.

Contact another dealer and get another quote. At this point in the process, I would not worry about the towing package.

kbedwards

Edmunds TMV for this vehicle is $39,347, but I have always thought that number was high in general (not just for this one, but others I have bought as well).

Not trading, just sold my car last week, but I am borrowing one, so not in a hurry. It's not like I am without transp at this point.

I have gone to other dealers, but they have not come close to this price.

No hidden fees (that popped up earlier in the negotiation in the form of advertising fees )- that number I wrote includes everything but tax, title and tag which has already been quoted to me from dealer at $575.

I just want to know if the towing package changes the way the "normal" engine would behave - if it drives much differently than the one I test drove...i.e. does it provide more torque at the expense of...quickness?

Does it add a lot of weight?

No idea...but I am 95% sure I will never need to tow anything...don't even have a trailer!

kbedwards

Hey Tom:

Thanks for this - "Did you account for the $500 difference in the MSRP (they could be padding the price)?"

We are now down to a difference of $500, and there it is. He quoted an MSRP that is almost exactly $500 above what Mazda site shows (amateur!)

And people wonder why car dealers get a bad rep? That is exactly why...mickey mouse tricks. Other than that, this guy has been very good to work with. I would still recommend him to others.

Thanks again.

Edit: Just got a quote in from another dealer for a nearly identical model, for a good price, so now I have a backup if this one doesn't work out.

seloo

Good work finding the padding!

Now carefully check the numbers on the contract. (This is where extra fees, especially the doc fee gets added).

In addition to the hitch system, the towing package usually gives you a heavy duty transmission and oil cooler. I few extra pounds, but not enough to make a big difference.

warever

By law, you must be shown or given the window sticker. That includes the ACTUAL MSRP of the vehicle. Assuming that they already HAVE the vehicle in stock, go over to the dealer and ask to see it (you ALWAYS should test drive THE VEHICLE that you're buying, not just one like it).

Web sites sometimes are off on MSRP because manufacturers sometimes change them during a model year, though generally, they're pretty close.

Make sure that extra $500 isn't something like "dealer prep" or some other BS like that. But also, don't forget the shipping/delivery charge for the vehicle which is often $500-$750 depending on where you live and where the car is made or arrived. That is actually a normal charge that's not built into the price of the car and you're expected to pay it (because it DOES cost them to get the car delivered to the dealer from wherever it was made).

One other thing, though... I'm all for haggling and getting the best price you can, but I ALSO understand as a businessman that the dealer has to make a living. I WANT them to make a living or else they're not going to be around to take care of servicing my vehicle.

Some people will haggle over a couple hundred bucks. To me, it really isn't worth it. I mean, over 4 years, $480 is only $10 a month. Is it worth $10 a month to fight with a dealer to squeeze that last little bit? How long is it taking you to deal with it? Could you be doing something better with your time - like spending it with your family? Is it causing you stress? Is NOT spending that time with your family and the extra stress REALLY worth saving $10 a month?

Check the MSRP sticker, find where the $500 is, and unless they're actively hiding something, just buy the vehicle and start enjoying it. For $10 a month, save yourself the headache.

kbedwards

Hey Jeff:

Thanks for the comments - much appreciated.

Good point about driving the ACTUAL vehicle, but what is protocol when they are getting the vehicle from another dealer? I guess I just tell them it won't be final until I drive THE car?

"Web sites sometimes are off on MSRP because manufacturers sometimes change them during a model year,"

Even the manufacturers own web site? If that is the case, I liken it to a store not updating their floor price even though they made an internal change on price that rings up different at the cashier. My view is that it's their resp. to keep things updated, esp when it comes to price.

Personally, when I make mistakes on price quotes to my clients, I always honor my price when it's lower than it should be - because I made the mistake.

"don't forget the shipping/delivery charge for the vehicle which is often $500-$750"

Shipping is included in the MSRP on Mazda's site. Also included in all my calculations.

LOL - you must be a dealer/salesperson?:

"I WANT them to make a living or else they're not going to be around to take care of servicing my vehicle."

Umm, not trying to put anyone out of business, here! They are big boys and girls I think. If they can't do a deal, then they can say that in a direct and mature way, hopefully, instead of trying to wiggle stuff in and sneak it past me. If it gets to a point that their profit margin is too thin on a deal, then they should walk away from ME, and I would completely understand that. I do it to potential clients all the time - they want a price that I can't do, so I tell them I can't do it. Very simple.

"Some people will haggle over a couple hundred bucks."

If it were a couple hundred bucks, then no, I would not be that concerned - heck I'm not "Concerned" now, just trying to get a fair price.

It's $500, and moreover $500 that I know is being used to pad the price. In reality, I could have gotten hard core on them because the 1st salesguy that talked to me said he could put me in a 08 GT for TWO TO THREE hundred over invoice. That quickly changed to $500 over, then the definition/value of "invoice" got challenged (added in $1,000 ad fees!), and now MSRP is even being debated (well, it MAY be, have not brought up that point yet), which is supposedly the one constant. LOL.

" How long is it taking you to deal with it? Could you be doing something better with your time - like spending it with your family? Is it causing you stress?"

Well, I am emailing back and forth, so it's taken very little time actually - probably 30 minutes of total typing over several days - I respond when I have the chance, and he responds in kind.

Is it stressing me out? Not at all...I am not in that much of a rush, I know I can buy a similar vehicle from a number of places, and to date, I have had nothing but pleasant exchanges with my salesperson.

I expect that to continue.

Thanks again for the idea about driving THE car, very good point.

outsidegurl

Hi and thanks for your input! No, I haven't driven the sport HL yet, but intend to before I make my decision. I really keep going back to the CX-9...it seems to be rated pretty well overall. I too felt a little lost in the Saturn model (similar toAcadia). It has benefits, but I don't think I want something that big.
May I ask why you didn't opt for the 20" wheels on the MX-9? Is it a rougher ride? I only drove the Touring, and loved it, but I really like what the GT offers (fog lamps, puddle lamps, blind side safety feature, etc.). You're right, the gas mileage is subpar, but I think they are all in the ball park.
BTW, I have some friends who also have Highlanders and they all rave about them!
Thanks for your post!
P.S. Do you know when the best time is to get a good price on a new vehicle?

outsidegurl

Hi, you sure have done your homework. I appreciate the info. I actually did a lot of research when I leased five vehicles over the last 11 years. Now that I'm back in the mode of auto shopping, I've done some number crunching and have come to this conclusion... For my needs, the benefits of leasing have waned due to increased interest rates coupled with car companies over the years trying to recapture monies they lost by offering great lease deals and not being able to regain their money when they attempted to resell. I also have been nervous each time I had to return the vehicle in fear that I would be nailed for "excessive wear and tear". I actually never had to pay anything more, but I know people who have been hammered with excess fees. I also have moved and have a longer commute to work, so...it looks like I'll be purchasing something in the very near future! Thanks for all of your examples...you should be a writer for Edmunds!

kcgille

I did pay a $259 document prep fee. I could have probably pushed it, but I have been working this dealer for over a month...walked out etc, my goal was $31,500, but they said they just couldn't do it. Otherwise, no other fees that I am aware of and I made sure to get every thing explained to me so they didn't try to throw anything else in. Hope that answers your question.

kcgille

I did not trade-in anything, chose to keep my car. Financed at 48 mos, 4.9%. I put $10K down. I had mentioned previously that I might seek financing somewhere else (wanted 36 mos at 0%, but it wasn't an option for a '08), but dealer said I had to finance through Mazda because it was such a low price (whatever....). I think the interest I will be paying was about $2500 if I don't pay it off early. Hate paying that interest...what a waste!

seloo

Just to be clear, what was the final price you paid for the car including all fees, before tax and title?

What was the invoice price of the car?

Thanks

seloo

2007 Mazda CX9
Body: Sport AWD Color: Crystal White Interior: Sand

Delivered Internet Price: $29,358 Factory Invoice: $30,642
Delivered Value Price: $29,727 MSRP: $32,770


2008 Mazda CX9
Body: Touring AWD Color: Galaxy Gray Interior: Black

Delivered Internet Price: $33,667 Factory Invoice: $33,701
Delivered Value Price: $34,036 MSRP: $36,202

kcgille

Here is the breakdown.
2008 CX-9 Touring FWD
Stormy blue mica, sand interior
Entertainment system w. Bose
Roof rails
Asking price $35,020

Sale price $31,933 (no trade in)
Purhased 100K mile warranty at $1299.00
Processing fee $294. (I think I posted $259 earlier)
AFTER taxes, title, & license fees total sale price
$36,179.17
Put $10K down (not part of the negotiation, nor did I commit to any financing before I got my final price)
Financed for 48 mos at 4.9%-$26,179.17. Pymt $601/mo. May be more info than needed...sorry, just trying to lay it all out there.

Oh..invoice paperwork shows $32,433. left the dealership with the print off as a matter of fact(oops......). They called and asked me to return it. LOL