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Pontiac Grand Prix Heater blower relay switch



  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Thank you, Christy! The more info i have on this the better.
    A picture someone gave me shows the blower clearly on the right side of the dash (under the passenger side, just near the middle dash), but, it shows , apparently, the resistor is on the other side ( the left of the middle of the dash, just to he drivers side of the 'middle dash'.
    Christy, is the resistor direclty mounted onto the blower motor of your vehicle (or is it separate?), and do you know if your 1999 GP, & our 2002 GP have the same configuration?
    As soo as I can, I'll put my 'blower breakdown chart' on this forum (it should help a LOT of people!).

    Also, i order of problems noticed:
    1)Pass power window stopped working 2 years ago (worked briefly after gettng new battery), and twice 3 mnths ago, other windows briefly failed).
    2)Power locks lock by themselves (when eneigne running, & person unlocks with drivers switch, then leaves car for a moment).
    3)Fan started intermittently not working on settings 1 & 2 (3, 4, & 5 ok), but then stopped working on all speeds.
    4)daytime running lights presently working intermittently (even when blower switch in off position).
    5)Rear defogger ha stopped working.

    All this, and NO windshield leaks have been noticed (yet).
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    I have the same problems 3 , 4, 5, and it was the blower fan or resistor, it was the ignition switch. i went though the whole car changing everything blower motor, resistor and heater controls, and nothing work then i went on here and someone told me ignition switch wires, not the part with keys, taking the steering column apart change ignition wires switch, problems 3,4,5, started right away and still working great now. but the part has to be order and it cost me aboiut 100.00 and then you need special tools to use also.. you might want to think about this before you do the same thing i did change all things you think might be it and find out it isn't.. email me back...but it is up to you.. resistor has a plug that needs to be unplug before you take it out, and there is 3 screws that are very hard to get to, i found that blower motor out was easy to get resistor out..i hope this helps. also where are you from?
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19

    try that website, it has pictures and that is how i changed mine also tells what tools to buy.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Hi Christy (thanks for the messages, you're making the job less stressing!),

    I hope than it doesn;t turn out to be the ignition wiring(thank you for you providing that link/the step by step pics of how to install the new (ignition) wiring. It looks complicated (a repair manual would help/none for my model year exists yet,... that is x-cept for Pontiacs $130.00 'shop' manual trio), so i hope it doesn't end up being the wires.

    I am just about to try what may be a shortcut (around buying, or installing a new blower motor 1st (to see if that solves the problem), by 1st using jumper wires directly from a power source (the battery, if necc.), and connecting them directly to the blower motor. If it doesn't work, then i replace it, only then (i wonder if others thought of this before paying/installing parts,..sounds like no one did. I diddn't think of it immediately, either.). Always remember, u can test almost ANY electical parts on the car/else where, with jumper wires, as long as u know what you'e doing.

    If the blower works, then the problem is finding how to test the resistor (maybe then i would just buy 1,.. but plug it in without fully installing it, i can return it, if necc.).
    Have u dealt with dex-cool gaskets problems (am considering selling the car, before this happens)?

    I'm (originally) from San Francisco, Cal., but currently live in Fontana, Cal.
    Thanks Christy (and u are from,....?)!
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    i had mine tested with diagnosis machine that is after putting blower motor in it and new resistor and it was ignition switch, the shop guy said that the ignition wires control everything with heater and lights and defroster also, so if all them don't work you might be changing something that you don't need to , it took me only 2 hours to change and being a woman i sure you can do it, my husband was happy he found someone that fixes cars because he don't know how.. i have a idea if you change ignition switch that will fix all your problem...
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    hay resistor only cost about 25 -30 dollors and blower motor could be about 120.00 so what do you think you should do, i went an found a blower motor at a junk yard that work, they test them there... if you want jsut change resistor its the cheapest.. also im from pa and now i haven trouble with ford peace of cramp... it shots down while driving it and i bought a ignition modulor and fix that so i am pretty good with cars...
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    I was thinking, that the only way i could imagine a problem with the ignition wiring beiing bad, & causeing multiple problems, would be if the wiring ha sbroken insulation, or had been made w. a defect (that lets 1 or mre wires eventually touch each other), or of the wires connections (or hrness connections) had/developed this defect.
    I bring this up, cause i;m going to examine like crazy (at least from the outside or harness end of the wiring, before I replace it/them (I saw a warning about being careful about the air bag system).
    Have u had any (other)probs. with your '99 Grand Prix?
    And do u know if the '02' model is similar to your (wiring wise)?
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    my book for the car i have 99 goes to 2003 pontiacs so i think it might be the same.
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    you can get a manuel online chilton just go to there website, or search online for another manuel.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Great! Thanks Christy!
  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    I'm not sure of the range of years that the ignition switch problem is found in, but my 97 had your exact same problems (fan not working on 1-4, daytime lights cutting off, no rear defroster) and fixing the ignition switch cured them all. It's not really the ignition swith wiring so you are not going to find any broken insulation or wires touching. The problem actually lies in the black box at the end of the wiring. This box has has six contacts inside it. These contacts become covered in carbon build up which reduces or completely stops current from passing through. That site website that christy10 posted is GOLD. I followed those directions a couple of weeks ago and fixed my problems. I didn't buy a new switch, instead I took the box apart and cleaned the contacts.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Hi fluxcap,
    As with Chrity, every little bit helps(thanks for the info,'s GOLD, believe m!).
    1 thing, in my case, the instance of the blower not working on 1 &2/ & only working on settings 3, 4, & 5, was just 2-3 weeks. Then, blower failed completely (and intermittent problems w. lights/etc., began.

    I completely agree that, if it's easy, just cleaning the contacts in that box you described should be enough ,.....what did u use to clean them, by the way. I thought of using that 'electronics cleaner spray' that's at most auto stores, but, although it says 'leaves no residue, it leaves something that turns white, I wonder if that would interfere w. electrical conduction.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Any problems w. dex-cool, like others (eating the gaskets? Also which ones/how much/at how many miles did the probs. start/, & do u still have the car?)

  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    I just used some light sandpaper to clean the contacts on mine. The guy who made those instructions with the pictures on that page said that after a few years his problem came back, and instead of using sandpaper, he used the contact cleaner spray you are talking about. He said it did work. The good thing about trying the spray is that you don't have to take the black box completely apart. You only have to take the top cover off. For me, putting the middle section of the box back together was the hardest part (there is a spring in there that has to be put back in a specific position) and if you use the spray, you can avoid that step. This way you also don't have to remove the whole wiring unit, and can save some time.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    An Update!:

    I just found & unplugged the electrical connector to the blower, tested, & found that it IS getting around 12 volts on all settings of the blower switch (my meter showed 11.91-11.97 vlts.).

    Also, i plugged the plug back into the blower (with the ignition switch o run, still, e.g., power on), was preparing to leave, when (after about 1 minute), what do ya know, the blower starts blowing! It was randomly left on setting #5, & when I switched to another setting, it went off (& stayed off,.....even after i tried setting 5 again).

    For many of you that mentioned water leaks harming your blower, i did notice dried water spots, but on the opposite side of the connector (didn't see where the resistor was).

    Anybody have any opinions. My best guess is that the blower probably has a short in it, and to go to a junkyard & get a replacement. (this assumes there is no such thing as a load/no load reading factor in the 12 volts i rad, when it comes to heavy load things, like blowers!).

    Also, anybody know what that 'cooling hose connected to the blower work (maybe it got clogged at the other end, & blew the blower)?
  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    Sorry, I meant to mention this earlier, when you were talking about hooking up test wires for the blower. I did the exact same thing you described. I unplugged the blower and resistor and checked each one separately. When the blower fan was NOT attached, I got perfect 12v readings from the resistor wiring. But as soon as I hooked up the fan, it would die. I tried all kinds of electrical riggings attemping to diagnose the problem, and found nothing. I know you really don't want to replace/fix that switch, but I'm 99.9% sure that is your problem.
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Thanks for the info.
    I guess what I'll do is get a solid power source, & use jumper wires from it, & hook them to the blower directly (while it's still in the car), & see what happens.
    That way, if it's as in your situation, i wouldn't have done much work.

    2 things; what year is your car, & (just in case), where was the resistor located (on what side, angle, etc. Also, is it attached to the blower ,...i can't find it?

    I want to eliminate that too, before I'm faced w. the bad news (of ultimately changing the switch/wiring).
  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    My car is a 97. The blower fan and resitor are located under the passenger side dash (above where the passengers feet would be). You'll have to remove a felt/carpeted cover which should be attached by two black plastic push clips (similar to the plastic clips that hold your interior door covers in place) You can see the fan in the picture below. The resistor is located behind the fan. You'll need to remove the fan first (easy) then the resistor (not so easy). The resistor has three screws. One is on the front side and easy to get to, the other 2 are on the backside and almost impossible to reach. I removed just the front screw and then just wiggled and yanked the resistor loose from the other two. Good Luck!
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Thanks for the picture (That's HOT!!!).

    It looks ominisly identical to the '02 model, which surprises me (also that Pontiac hasn't fixed the successive problems.).

    How did you deal w. that thick/solid hose full of wiring across the blower (on mine, it's more cramped for space, as you'll note in the pic there's nothing to the right of the blower,...)?

    Did you use any specialty tools w. the blower or resistor removals?

    How many miles did you have when your blower gave out totally?
  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    No special tools needed. Just a socket wrench set and a short extension. The big hose of wiring wasn't a problem. It's pretty solid, but it will allow enough play to easily get the blower out. My problems occured about 4 year's ago somewhere around 90,000 miles. At that time, no website forums were talking about the ignition problem so I took it to the dealership. They replaced the fan and blower with no luck. Said they could keep testing, but their hourly rate wasn't cheap, and I was a broke college student. I went without a/c and heat for four years! This year I decided to do more research and found internet talk about the ignition switch. Ahh the internet!
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Did the dealership charge u for the parts that weren't the cause?? (that's why were're 'do-it yourselfers
    , right?)
    You said u 'yanked' at the resistor (cause the 2 far screws were difficult), so did u have to break it free?

    I'm trying to just get the fan working (cause tll it gets worse, i can handle the occasional dytime run lights problem), & thought of a last resort (or 'quick/temp. fix):

    Connect power wires/a sep switch directly to the fan (assuming it works, of course). If it works, it could save down time.

  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    you can change blower motor like i did and it still won't work till you change ignitiion switch. i did all the things that deal with heater and now of them work till i change that ignition switch and it work that day.. it is a wire in ignition switch that cause the problem till you fix it your waste your money on other things like i did...
  • christy10christy10 Posts: 19
    when i had my ignition tested they said orange wires was heater and test and came back they were shorting out so if you guys want to test it before you buy it take that steering column apart the underneith one and you will see all these wires and test the orange one and yellow one it will show that ignition switch was bad and having the diagnois it only cost me 60.00 next day order part and it came it 2 days after ordering it, change it and drove it all weekend with A/C and all speeds work and lights work and rear defog works also, so i have ALL the same problems you all had and it is a good chance that it is IGNITION SWITCH just change it before you do heater resistor or blower motor like i did and was very mad it wasn't them...
  • I'm with Christy on this. My car is a 2000, with almost 80k on it. My fan slowly died out, 1,2,3 until only 5 worked, then the daytime running lights started acting up. The ignition wire solved the whole mess, it was the orange wire as well.

    I had the windshield cowl leak too, so my resistor board was fried black as well.

    It's been over a month now and everything is running perfectly!

    Good luck.
  • fluxcapfluxcap Posts: 8
    On the first trip to the dealership they replaced and charged me for the resistor. On the second trip they replaced and tried to charge me for the blower fan. I told them I wasn't paying anything more until my problems were fixed. They said fine, but asked that I bring the car back the next morning so they could put the old fan back in. They never saw me again.

    I did not break the resistor when pulling it out. I was firm but gentle. I just wiggled it back and forth till it came loose.

    I'll help you with any information about removing the fan and resistor, because like Christy, I have spent hours examining and testing these items. But like Christy, I must also tell you that you are wasting your time. The solution will only be found in the ignition switch.

    Even if you hotwire the fan (12volt source---->on/off switch----->fan), I think you will still have a problem. You will have a fan that operates at one speed, however, if you bypass the dash controls, I'm not sure you'll be able to control the temperature of the air coming out of the vents. And more importantly, the ignition switch controls alot more than the a/c and driving lights, so eventually you are just going to encounter more and more problems.
  • haha sorry about that, I had the thing taken apart for so long, I forgot about the...trim? I think it is. mine is a 97 GTP. There is some trim that has the little light on it, you have to pull that down, then get a flash-light and look up behind the glove-box and you will see the blower motor and behind that...between the motor and the fire-wall is the resistor. (it may be hard to recognize...I knew which one it was because I got the parts first and knew what they looked like and what I was looking for. but the reason these are bad is because of a water leak under the windshield. Check the threads the on "water leaks" to find out more about it.
  • I've got a 96 Dakota on which the A/C compressor wasn't working. In messing around with it I discovered I could cause it to come on briefly by wiggling the relay switch. I thought that the relay was bad so I changed it out with another that was working OK but still had the same problem. I unhooked the wires going into the relay and by connecting them directly and bypassing the switch can get the compressor to run. Anyone have any ideas on what the problem is?

  • Just Bought a 97 Grand Prix and noticed no air coming from vents, after reading all of these post i am completely surprised!!! My dayloght runners are not messing up and i do not have rear defrost, but that is because of one of the leads on the back window are broken off, i am about to try and take the blower out, check the resister, and then see what happens. I dont know if this car had the same problems of speeds disappearing or not, but the car did sit for a long time!
  • :confuse: ok..i have an 01 pontiac grand prix gtp with 88k on it. I have already replaced the blower motor resistor once and it fixed the problem totally. OK, so the same thing happened again! So i bought a new resistor and it didnt fix it this time. I dont have heat or air and NO SPEEDS work (1-5). I dont have any problems with the daytime running lights or the rear defrogger.

    I have a remote starter in the car and the shop who did it said if the fan doesnt turn on with the remote start, well its not the "ignition switch" thing because that actually bypasses those wires (the orange and yellow) . Are they mistaken? need of some desperate help here! WINTER is upon me in Pennsylvania and i need my defoggers....

    ANY help would be greatly appreciated..thank you!
  • craig32craig32 Posts: 30
    Unplug the connector lead that plugs into the heater's blower motor fan (under the pass. side onder the dash).

    then , connect a volt meter pos. to it, & connect the meter's neg lead to a ground. Then turn ignition on, & turn on the fan switch. How many volts are at each fan setting?

    (eg, are u getting enough voltage? Example: our '02 Grd Prix reads at appx 6-8 volts, & has the same heater/air fan prob. as you, so, in our car, something is preventing enuf working voltage from going thru, lets eliminate this same condition/factor in your car).

    Question: is the shop referring to the ENGINE FAN, or to the cabin fan??
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