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2001 1500 Suburban 5.3 4WD 125K miles. I bought with 75K miles and do not know if trans has ever been serviced. If I service, pan drop and filter, can or should I use synthetic oil - happen to have a case of Royal Purple.
i have a 98 sub. and when put into any gear i can drive for about 3 min. then it acts as if i put into nutural, the motor revs up but the tranny will not engauge. if i turn it off for 3 min or so it will do the same thing. what is wrong with it and is it cheap and easy to fix??? thank you so very much
My 1996 Suburban automatic transmission will not reverse when set to REVERSE, if I will set to DRIVE it runs smoothly. So my problem now is the transmission wouldnt reverse, please help.
You'll need a transmission shop to look at it. I had a '97 which lost reverse and 2nd, and it had a broken part when they dropped the pan to inspect it.
replaced the transmission pump,and the torq converter ,and when i drive a long distance and come to a stop and then take off again the trans ,kicks hard ,but when i turn off the engine and restarted again it shifts smooth again,but when i drive long trips or when the temp outside its hot it does it again shifts hard it kicks into gear,but during the winter it shifts smooth,what could be the cause for this ,
i have a 2001 chevy suburban, its not 4 wheel drive, yesterday i was driving down the road, as i approached a stop sign it like popped into neutral, it wouldnt go forward in any gear, but would go in reverse very well, any ideas what might be wrong? hopefully not an overhaul
my 98 suburban shifts hard too when it kicks into gear after drives on the freeway, which is pretty similar to your situation, but doesn't shift like that 'round town driving. if you find out what it might be please let me know. my email: lindamoz3000@yahoo.com also, my service engine soon light is on, so i'm not sure if that could be related. i'll get it checked out in a couple weeks.
I am having a problem with my tranmission of my 04 chevy suburban it will move when I shft it into reverse and into the low gears but will not move when shifted into drive or 3rd gear. What could be wrong??
Interesting ... I just got my 04 suburban back from the transmission shop today.
Reverse, 1st and 2nd gears worked. 3rd and 4th didn't work. Total mileage : 124K At ~30mph it tries to shift into 3rd gear, you can see the RPMs increase, but there is no speed increase.
The problem was that 3rd/4th gears didn't have any friction material (worn down to the metal) and there is valve that wasn't working correctly (thus no 3rd or 4th gears). Had the transmission rebuilt and it now shifts smoothly.
i have a 2005 suburban with 50k miles. light throttle 35-45 mph trans in overdrive feels like your on the rumble strip. more throttle pressure or less or put it into tow mode on gear selector, it stops shuddering.....will be ok for a while, till next episode. seems like maybee a pressure switch or the need for a update computer re-flash...what 'ya think? i always get good info here...thanks in advance for any info/help. Raven
owned truck since new, 144k driving up a hill today and notice rpms were high and realized truck seem like it was in nutreul, no loud bangs no noises, pulled over tranny fluid is clean red and full ist and 2nd work but in d and od after 1st and 2nd its like it just goes into neutral, any body have suggestions on what this is and how to fix? thanks
My 98 burb is doing the same thing now. What did you have to have done? I just had it towed to the transmission shop and am waiting to hear what they say. THanks for your info!
My 2007 Chevy Suburban won't engage drive or 3low. It works fine in reverse. In 2low it runs fine unless I turn or go above 20 mph. Then it sound like something is rubbing on the front wheels. Had a horrendous snow storm today and had the vehicle in 4wd. This didn't start happening until tried to change back to 2 high. What could this be? Has anyone else had this problem?
I have a 2000 burban 2500 4 x 4 and it has been doing the hard shift since about 2004. It shifts fine until I go on the freeway and cruise for awhile. I went to a transmission shop back in 2004 and they put the Scanner on there and told me it is a convenience issue but will not hurt the transmission. They said I could fix it for about $400. Here is what I was told in my unprofessional language.
There is some kind of valve (my words) that engages once you get going a certain speed (like on the highway/freeway) and it sets. Then when you stop going fast (let's say you get off an exit and come to a light) the valve sticks and causes the hard shift. I have found that if I turn the truck off and turn it back on it resets. So like I said previously I have been driving that way for 5 years and it still does that today but it does not stick every time.
My understanding is that this so-called valve is like a small metal "dowel like" plug that slides back and forth depending on the speed and gets sluggish and does not always slide when it is supposed to. Weird explanation but I did not ask a lot of specific questions. I was just happy that it was supposedly no big deal and only a driver convenience/aggravation issue. This was my experience. I am not a mechanic and really don't know much about my Burban since it has given me great service and I have not had many problems except for now and that is why I am on the forum but not for a transmission problem. I hope that helps.
This turned out to be real interesting....under used veh. warranty. took it to the dealer. I was really surprised when they replaced the transmission!....said it had a broken "part" and water in the transmission!....I got it home ok. Next cold start, "bucked" like a bucking horse...nearly cut off. Eventually, engine light came on. Onstar said it was Transmission. Took veh. back to dealer. They replaced the manual valve pressure switch....code was p1810.
Can anyone tell me where the oil filter is located. I looked for it did not find. I am going to jack it up so I can get more room to move and look again but if someone knows please reply.
Also does anyone know what an 1870 transmission code refers to. I know it says "transmission part slipping". Would this mean the torque converter? Fluid level is good and I don't feel anything when driving.
While driving and while the suburban (year 2000, 2WD, 1500, LT) was moving at around 20mph, the suburban started to lose power so I had to push down the accelerator much harder for the suburban to continue moving. Finally, the RPM got too high so I let off the gas and let the suburban roll to a stop.
After stopping the suburban didn't move at all after pushing the gas. I turned it off, and back on. Right after the engine turned on, I heard a one metal bang under the truck. Now, I continue hearing this one bang every time I start the truck.
When in any gear, (Drive, reverse, 1, 2, or 3), the truck won't move when pushing the gas. However, once every 10-15 starts, the suburban starts moving in either drive or reverse (apparently responding to the push on the gas) but soon after (30 seconds later) stops.
I checked the transmission fluid and it's overfilled 1-1.5 inches over the 2nd dot. I don't know if that's way too overfilled to cause this problem or not. Maybe, it's not the problem at all.
I regularly take the truck to the dealership for regular service (oil change, fluid topoff, etc.) The last time fluid was added according to my invoices was in April '09. But the last time I took it to the dealer for service was for an oil change and according to the service center, all the fluids were "OK" and none were check marked in the "filled" section.
I don't take the truck anywhere else for service, so either the fluid was overfilled in April or December but not noted on the invoice.
I had to replace the transmission in My 07 Suburban (2WD) at 65m miles. (For what its worth I have never towed anything) I took it to AAMCO, I got the car back and 1 1/2 weeks later it went again. Two weeks ago I got the car back again , it just went again yesterday.
Am looking for some insight. Is there a problem with the car? Or did the AAMCO I took it to just not do a good job (twice). For what its worth I was 2 hrs away from home when it went this time, so it's at a different AAMCO.
If it only had 65k miles then why did you not take it to the dealer. It has a 5 year 100k mile drivetrain warranty. At least my 08 came with that and I purchased the bumper to bumper 5 year 100k mile for everything else that may break.
Exact same problem with my 2007 Suburban today. Exit highway and stopped at lights. Went to drive and nothing, might have gotten into first gear, but as soon as it went to shift into second, clunk, and nothing. Will not engage in D or 3 low, but was able to make it home in 2L. Did you have any luck getting your problem fixed?
My wiper blades lasted longer than my transmission.Had to have transmission overhaul done at 60,000 on 2007 Suburban. In the process of putting the 3rd battery in the car, just replaced it in April 09. Not looking forward to the future with this vehicle, battery demise is random, onstar diagnostics claim everything is okay with vehicle, then you go to start it and the battery is dead. No problem hit the onstar button and get roadsise assistance. Oh wait, onstar doesn't work if the battery is dead. $45,000 POS!!!!
exact same problem with mine. I backed out of my driveway, put it in drive. I heard a strange noise, then couldn't move forward. I can start out in 1st, shift to 2nd (makes a strange noise), then shift to 3. D does not work. Took it in to the dealer today. It's covered under warranty. I'm at 85k miles, I'm glad it happened before 100k!
i have an 89 subarban that had a leak due to a bad converter. i replaced the converter and now it will not go into reverse. is there anything i might have not hooked up right? a quick reply would be great as i need to make a long road trip with it this saturday. thanks.
Your Transmission is covered under factory warranty. I also have an 07 suburban and had the transmission replaed at 55K at the dealer but It still acting up. It feels sluggish and a vibration on the accelerator pedal
Hello all, I have a 2001 Chevy Suburban 5.3L with 133,000 miles on it. It starts up fine, I put it in drive, it doesn't move, put it in reverse, it backs up, put it back in drive and away we go. The rest of the day it drives just fine. Other days I put it in drive and it is fine, then there are the days I put it in drive, we take off, stop, step on the gas and nada!! Put it in reverse, back up, put it back in drive and we are off. Any ideas?
hi i have a 2004 gmc full size truck 1500 4x4 when i start the truck it will go in gear if i let it sit and idle in park i go to put it in drive again nothing its like its in neutral but if i shut the truck off wait a minute start it back up it will go into gear again any ever have this prolem ?
it wont go in reverse (goes into nuetral) wont go into park (unless i use parking break) and when it gets to about 35 mph i can feel no more acceleration in the pedal... 187k miles the questions are is there a repair to be done or a new transmission?
is it worth it to rebuild
i am reading this forum and notice alot of other suburb owners are complaining that the rebuilds are not running for more than 100k.
what type of transmission goes in my truck when i go to buy one...
My 95 Tahoe is not shifting into O.D. I have changed the fluid and filter in it about 1 year ago, and havnt seen any issues till now. I just recently took it in for an oil leak that ended up being the oil filter adaptor. But in order for them to figure out where the leak was they had to clean the whole underside of my truck, since it was coated in oil. Oil leak fixed, but 1 week later I loose Overdrive. The other gears work flawlessly, just won't shift from third to fourth gear. the fluid level is good, and I don't have any transmision leaks to note. Could this be a sensor? It didn't make any loud noises, I just noticed that the RPM's were too high when on the highway.
Don't know much about automatic transmissions, but perhaps if they had to spray everything with a degreaser and power wash, that one of the electrical connectors and/or wiring got bounced around and isn't making a good connection anymore.
Problem with ALL 1500 auto Burbs is the trans is just too weak for the size of these vehicles. If a 'soccer mum' is driving it...OK....but anyone who tows or puts the foot down from time to time will eventually destroy the trans. The 4L60, 4L65, 4L70, 4L75 trans are all made for a sedan....not a 3 tonne vehicle.
Has anyone had problems with there transmission? I have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe Z71 4X4 with 140K on it. I bought it used just only 4 months ago. The guy i bought it from stands by Chevy's even thought i was hesitate on buying it with high mileage so he offered me a Warranty. The Carfax turned up good, no problems and 1 owner. So i got it but no I was driving it and slowed down but when I went to speed up my RPM would rev up. I pulled over put it in park and started driving again but when i tried to go over 30 MPH my RPM would just rev up. So I'm guessing my Tahoe was stuck in 2nd. I got it up to 40 at 2 1/2 RPM and tried to go faster and it rev to 5 RPM!! So i can't go but 30 MPH. I took it to a shop yesterday and they have pulled out my TRANSMISSION and waiting on the insurance guy from the where i got my warranty threw to come out and make a decision on whether to fix it or not. Now I worried that if the Transmission gets replaced other things will start going wrong? Has anyone had problems like this? I love the way it drives and how much room we have now! so should i get rid of it or keep it and i hope the warranty even covers it!
i have a 2001 chevy suburban 1500 2 wheel drive, i had the transmission rebuilt by a very repitable transmission company, it shifts fine but the computer keeps sending a code, i think its like code 1870 its saying its an internal slip, so the transmission place has changed the torque converter and pump 3 times, still the same thing. they have went through this transmission and say they have never seen this before, EVER! anyone have any suggestions? someone mentioned to me about having the brain flashed? know anything about that? PLEASE HELP if anyone has any suggestions, this cost me about 1800. and still isnt right
I have a 93 350 s. Suburban with 171,000 miles on it. This truck has been good to me all these years with very little trouble. My son used it Saturday night to go to his girl friend and came back later but I was in bed. The next day I went with the dog to go to the park and when I started it it rev'ed up high but came back down to normal. Never did this before. As I drove down the street the engine roared like it was slipping but shifted all gears. Feels like 2nd seem to roar the most but it does shift into 3rd. I change the fluid about 6 months ago and it was working good since. Anybody have something like this before? Johnace
I have a '93 burb 4x4 with the 60 tranny. Have two issue that appeared at the same time: 1) the speedometer goes crazy and getting worse, similar to what the 2004's and such are doing. One day after changing the altintor I was idling in park and the needle was turning up to 80 mph, and the odometer was spinning forward like I was driving. 2) The transmission jerks like a stick shift when idling at speed. 20, 40, 70 mph doesn't matter. If there's not a load or slowing down it jerks. My TPS is new, I cleaned the speed sensor but don't want to just start buying new sensors. I am going to change the fluid but the two seem connected and seems electrical to me. Any thoughts?
My 2001, 2500 suburban has 67,000 miles on it and the tranny is barely starting to act up. ONLY on 1st gear while accelerating from stand still y kind of hovers/ ripples or bumps its way to gear. It does not happen every time. I have serviced the tranny but the problem stays. Fortunately while on the road and towing there are no issues. What can i du to prevent the tranny form having further damage or do you know what can be causing this. Note: the tranny does not feel like it slide to gear.
i have a 94 chevy suburban with a 454 in it. When i shift to 4H or 4L i can tell it engages at the transfer case but not at the front axels. Now what? thanks
My '95 Suburban 1500 4WD has 279,000 miles on it. Runs good and looks good, but it is slow shifting into reverse when on even a slight downhill incline. It also acts like it is missing a bit when under light load at 40-50 mph -- but I know it has an intake manifold leak and I assume that is causing the transmission to hunt for the proper gear.
What could be the problem? If the transmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced, should I purchase one or let someone do it? If I wanted to purchase a replacement, what should I look for and where is a good place to buy it?
i just got a 4x4 1993 chevy suburban ,automatic, i love it, but i got it cheap because it had "tranny problems" ive been driving it, but to get into 3rd gear i have to floor it, and it wont go above 4th. Im not sure if it has a bad torque converter or if its the whole transmission? the previous owner said he tried changing the filter and the fluid.. any info for me?
I have a 2001 Suburban 8.1L with transmission failure and cannot locate a used transmission anywhere in this state. Would I be better to put an older model tranny that is retrofitted or have mine rebuilt?
Why wouldn't rebuild be the preferred solution anyhow, just fix what is broke? Or do you have a ton of miles on it, where you should consider buying new vehicle?
Comments
John
thank you so very much
Reply would be very much appreciated as I have to decide whether or not to go ahead with the replacement
thank you
Let's keep the discussion here so everyone will benefit.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Reverse, 1st and 2nd gears worked. 3rd and 4th didn't work. Total mileage : 124K
At ~30mph it tries to shift into 3rd gear, you can see the RPMs increase, but there is no speed increase.
The problem was that 3rd/4th gears didn't have any friction material (worn down to the metal) and there is valve that wasn't working correctly (thus no 3rd or 4th gears). Had the transmission rebuilt and it now shifts smoothly.
Cost ~2K.
but i also think a new torque converter will fix it for good
There is some kind of valve (my words) that engages once you get going a certain speed (like on the highway/freeway) and it sets. Then when you stop going fast (let's say you get off an exit and come to a light) the valve sticks and causes the hard shift. I have found that if I turn the truck off and turn it back on it resets. So like I said previously I have been driving that way for 5 years and it still does that today but it does not stick every time.
My understanding is that this so-called valve is like a small metal "dowel like" plug that slides back and forth depending on the speed and gets sluggish and does not always slide when it is supposed to. Weird explanation but I did not ask a lot of specific questions. I was just happy that it was supposedly no big deal and only a driver convenience/aggravation issue. This was my experience. I am not a mechanic and really don't know much about my Burban since it has given me great service and I have not had many problems except for now and that is why I am on the forum but not for a transmission problem. I hope that helps.
Can anyone tell me where the oil filter is located. I looked for it did not find. I am going to jack it up so I can get more room to move and look again but if someone knows please reply.
Also does anyone know what an 1870 transmission code refers to. I know it says "transmission part slipping". Would this mean the torque converter? Fluid level is good and I don't feel anything when driving.
After stopping the suburban didn't move at all after pushing the gas. I turned it off, and back on. Right after the engine turned on, I heard a one metal bang under the truck. Now, I continue hearing this one bang every time I start the truck.
When in any gear, (Drive, reverse, 1, 2, or 3), the truck won't move when pushing the gas. However, once every 10-15 starts, the suburban starts moving in either drive or reverse (apparently responding to the push on the gas) but soon after (30 seconds later) stops.
I checked the transmission fluid and it's overfilled 1-1.5 inches over the 2nd dot. I don't know if that's way too overfilled to cause this problem or not. Maybe, it's not the problem at all.
I regularly take the truck to the dealership for regular service (oil change, fluid topoff, etc.) The last time fluid was added according to my invoices was in April '09. But the last time I took it to the dealer for service was for an oil change and according to the service center, all the fluids were "OK" and none were check marked in the "filled" section.
I don't take the truck anywhere else for service, so either the fluid was overfilled in April or December but not noted on the invoice.
Any thoughts on this problem???
I had to replace the transmission in My 07 Suburban (2WD) at 65m miles. (For what its worth I have never towed anything) I took it to AAMCO, I got the car back and 1 1/2 weeks later it went again. Two weeks ago I got the car back again , it just went again yesterday.
Am looking for some insight. Is there a problem with the car? Or did the AAMCO I took it to just not do a good job (twice). For what its worth I was 2 hrs away from home when it went this time, so it's at a different AAMCO.
Thanks,
Gerry
Exact same problem with my 2007 Suburban today. Exit highway and stopped at lights. Went to drive and nothing, might have gotten into first gear, but as soon as it went to shift into second, clunk, and nothing. Will not engage in D or 3 low, but was able to make it home in 2L. Did you have any luck getting your problem fixed?
Cheers
187k miles
the questions are
is there a repair to be done or a new transmission?
is it worth it to rebuild
i am reading this forum and notice alot of other suburb owners are complaining that the rebuilds are not running for more than 100k.
what type of transmission goes in my truck when i go to buy one...
If a 'soccer mum' is driving it...OK....but anyone who tows or puts the foot down from time to time will eventually destroy the trans.
The 4L60, 4L65, 4L70, 4L75 trans are all made for a sedan....not a 3 tonne vehicle.
What could be the problem? If the transmission needs to be rebuilt / replaced, should I purchase one or let someone do it? If I wanted to purchase a replacement, what should I look for and where is a good place to buy it?
thanks,
Tom
Im not sure if it has a bad torque converter or if its the whole transmission? the previous owner said he tried changing the filter and the fluid.. any info for me?