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Chevy Suburban Transmission Problems



  • wpargawparga Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 chevy suburban 5.3L 1500 4x2. My driveline broke off and just installed a new driveline. When I put the truck in drive the truck doen't seem to go. I step on the gas and the truck takes a while to move forward but does so at a very slow pace no matter how much I step on the gas. What could this be?
  • xchevyfanxchevyfan Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Suburban too. Same problem. My wife got down the street and tranny popped out of gear. Reverse, 2L, and 1L work but nothing else. Drive nor 3L don't work. I only have about 30 thousand miles on it, so it shouldn't be due to wear. Any word on the class action?
  • marini3marini3 Member Posts: 1
    Purchased 2007 Chevy Surburban and nothing but trouble. At 80,150 the transmission failed and was replaced. driving 50 miles an hour and engine light came on and stated "engine power is reduced or low or something and stabiliTrack failed and the car would only go <5 miles/hour down the interstate. Bracks replaced, windshield wiper tubing broken and now the throttle body failed.I've read all of the reviews on line and wondering if there is any help coming from GM.
  • sws123sws123 Member Posts: 1
    In front of my radiator is a long thin radiator, shooting a brown liquid out of the top of the coil. It is like a 2" wide from the top of the radiator down to the bottom with a single coil. My truck is a 2002 Suburban 4*4 with 100k miles on it, k2500.

    Any idea what this small radiator is, so I can have it replaced?">
  • someoneelsesomeoneelse Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like a transmission cooler and if your fluid is brown coming from the "transmission cooler", it is way past time to change the filter and fluid. Hope that this helps you. BJ
  • denicesherlockdenicesherlock Member Posts: 1
    At first when I stop at a light or stop sign and start to go again my 2004 chevy Suburban truck stalls and don"t want to go and the traction control indicator light comes on, I have to take my foot of the gas then reapply pressure to the pedal for it to drive normally. Now the 4 wheel drive won't turn off when I push the button in and if I try to drive it the transmission won;t change over and I heard a big "POP". What could be the problem?
  • subhelpsubhelp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 1500 Suburban, my wife was driving, trans has been working good no slips or noise, she came to a stop and tried to accelerate and the truck would not move. I took it a trans shop they pulled the pan it showed some clutch material, i had them clean the pan and replace the filter and frsh fluid and i drove it home 4 miles without a issue. I had not service the trans for 40k miles could this just been cause of filter plugged do to lack of service or will it do it again in a very short period of time or miles.
  • rickhksrickhks Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if you found any solution to this problem whereas I am experiencing the same thing. If you have any information regarding this, please feel free to share, thank you
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Hello rickhks,
    We're sorry to hear that you're having difficulty with your Suburban. What are your plans for getting this looked into? If you would like for us to check into any existing warranties or recall information, please email the last 8 digits of your VIN to [email protected]

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • alxsmlalxsml Member Posts: 1
    I have been having this problem for 4 months and nobody has been able to fix it.

    2001 suburban 1500 about 145k miles.

    In gears 1 and 2 I have no problems whatsoever. But in 3 and D, the car randomly shudders, and stalls. This is much worse when the car is loaded up and going up hills. Took it to AAMCO suspecting transmission problems but they say that the transmission is perfectly fine. They have been looking at it for two months!! Replaced crank position sensor, neutral position switch and even the ECM! But nothing is fixing it.

    I need help!!
  • elaf55elaf55 Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a 2011 Suburban with approx 70k miles runs good but I did experience a problem with the transmission not shifting smoothly and drives very slow until i push the gas pedal, not sure what the problem maybe torque convertor? I am within the 100k power train warranty any advise would be helpful , Thanks !
  • 2bhappy2bhappy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 1500 Chevy Suburban with 109,000 miles on it. My transmission went out with no warning at 50,000 miles. We fought with dealership and manufacturer and had them replace it with a new one. Well guess what, I have appr. 59,000 on this transmission and it just went out on us on our thanksgiving trip. This vehicle is only driven in town and the occasional vacation or road trip. It has a tow pkg but hasn't been used to pull things. It has always been meticulously maintained by my husband that is a mechanic. This vehicle has never been misused or abused. So what is the problem with Chevrolet Suburban's? We have had absolutely no other issues with it and have loved this vehicle. I have researched and noticed I am not the only one with this issue.. What is the problem? How does Chevrolet plan on handling this issue? Three transmissions in one vehicle with that low of mileage is ridiculous.
  • motodog1motodog1 Member Posts: 1
    I had this exact problem last week (minus the big "popping noise"). The issue could be replicated repeatedly by stopping, waiting a few seconds, then slowly giving it gas and it would bog down, (like when your running out of gas) and the dash flashed traction control.The dealer said that the traction control sensors (speed sensors) needed replaced. They replaced them and the issue has been resolved.

    Side note: This only happens on slow accelerations, if you step on it from the gate it would take right off. Also though the bogging down would happen every time, it would not flash traction control on the dash every time. It took me at least 15 times in a row before I got the traction control message.

    Hope this helps someone.
  • reconkingreconking Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Suburban 4x4 with 120,000+ miles. The transmission took about 3500 rpm to shift from 1 to 2, the codes said the 1-2 shift solenoid was bad. I replaced both solenoids and the filter, this time I used dextron 6 instead of 3. Now it won't shift out of first. Is there something else I need to replace or has this transmission died?
  • smokymntsmokymnt Member Posts: 1
    OK, My 96 suburban transmission is missing 3rd and overdrive. I talked to a shop and they say it needs rebuilt. I'm trying to save $, and thinking about pulling the tranny out and take it to the shop and installing myself. I do all my own maint., such as tune-ups, brakes and a few strait shift trans, back in the day(70s&80s). Are there any procedures/tricks that I might need to know. Oh, it is a 4x4, 5.7? Thanks, smokymnt
  • tallpaul33tallpaul33 Member Posts: 1
    Original owner with 213,000 miles. rebuilt trans at about 135,000 miles. Current problem, when shifting into reverse, I need to apply additional pressure to steering column lever to get it to engage reverse. Is adjustment into linkage problem, or more like an internal transmission problem? Once in gear, transmission performs smoothly.
  • jaycen76jaycen76 Member Posts: 1
    i got a 1995 chevy suburban 350 with 4x4 L160 trans

    when i put it in gear it goes 100ft or so disegages then i have to shut it off and wait 5min it will go back in gear and do the same thing over again i changed the trans oil and filter it still does the same
  • suburban1996suburban1996 Member Posts: 2
    o2 sensor needs replaced
  • rs6errs6er Member Posts: 11
    My son had my Suburban at a friend's nearby and notified me it was making a screeching noise. I drove over and this is what I found: I was able to drive it in first gear in 2H. When it upshifted to 2nd going up a hill, it made made a screeching noise and it seem that there rear wheels locked up. I pressed the tow button to keep it in 1 st gear, drove it up the hill, and mostly coasted down another hill to my house. I put it in 3rd at one point, and it was okay. I got it up my steep driveway in its okay and turned it around so I could back it in. Truck screeched in reverse and would'n t really back up, so I parked it where it was. I have been posting on forums. Someone suggested that the clutch pack was shot or the whole transmission. I am trying to decide what to do. My mechanic said he could install a used one for about $1800 or a rebuilt one for $2700. Do these sound like fair prices? I would like to get rid of it though. It has about 115000 miles and is in good shape. I had changed the fluid and filter at about 90000miles. There was no warning. Transmission had been shifting smoothly. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
    2001 Suburban LT 1500 AWD LSD 5.3L
  • nadiah1213nadiah1213 Member Posts: 1
  • kapie9969kapie9969 AZMember Posts: 3
    Wires and Switches and sensors. Changing the fluid enough and i would recommend a external fine micron filter kit,ebay has them. Cheap insurance considering the cost of a transmission.Consider how many times you have been under your rig and looked things over,cleaned connectors? Even once? Do you stop before shifting from reverse to drive? Some times the answer for the torque converter is to wire a switch to the dash to manually lock in the converter. Funny thing is that for as many people here are having problems with their trans,I bet many haven't had any. Good luck to you all.
  • kyle6638kyle6638 Member Posts: 1
    ok I need help I have a 95 suburban 4x4 1500 one day the speedometer stopped and the transmission stopped at the same time so I took it to a shop he talked me into buying another transmission for 350 and another 400 to put it in well I got the new transmission and it did the same thing he took the battery cable off to rest it and in shifted but not to my standards so I drive away and bomb there it goes again not shifting any one know what or where my problem is
  • raquella30raquella30 Member Posts: 1
    My 07 suburban is only taking first to take off but it'll gradually take 2, 3, the D and will be fine until I do a complete stop or slow down then I have to start the process over. I'm thinking I might need to flush my tranny but not sure, so any of you have any suggestions?
  • 4wdjeepandgmc4wdjeepandgmc Member Posts: 1
    97 Suburban 1500 4WD -Jerks at highway speed like it is trying to shift.  It only happens for a split second but its pretty hard.  It also seems to happen regularly if climbing even the slightest incline/hill.  Happens as soon as I top the hill and the load is off the vehicle.  There's no engine rev like it slipped out of gear.  Tranny fluid changed and no signs of metal.  Does it in overdrive (D) and if I keep it in 3.  Seems to also only do thus when engine is at temp. Not a towing vehicle and nearly no use of the 4WD over the life. Has 175000 miles.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    It's difficult sometimes to tell the difference between an engine misfire and a torque converter problem.
  • ptwoodptwood Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy suburban. The tranny shift lever will move but truck will not go into gear or move. Could it be the leakage? Or is it internal. Please help need to get it running again. Thank you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    hard to say from this distance. If the shift lever feels "normal" as you move it, then there may be somthing going on internally. Best thing to do is first check the fluid level, then if that's ok get it to a transmission shop to put on a lift. In addition to checking the linkages they can perform an external pressure test and maybe drop the pan and have a look. Be sure you go to a shop with a good record from the BBB or perhaps a AAA recommendation rating.
  • JasroJasro Member Posts: 1
    I know these are older posts but I have to comment so that maybe it will help all around in the future. First don't let people say that Chevy transmissions can't interchange. I have a 2003 in my 95 burban. The trans still work on same obd1 principal. It's still a 12 volt system. Higher ohm solenoids is less resistant which is easier on the computer. 93 and 94 trans will not interchange because it's really an electric shift 700r4. Meaning no computer control of 4th gear. That's why 700r4's are sought after by drag racers because of manual control. From 350 turbo's to 700r4's to 4l60e's their internal parts are the same. 95 96 97 part of 98 torque converter are same till it went to 300 mm converters. They can still be used in either transmission but you have to use the input shaft with the converter it came from. The pre 99 had 295 converter. 300 converter on pre 99 will break the pump. Sometimes at first start. Input shafts are different. 295 on 300 will take out the converter if it even reaches the pump to make it operate after bolting it to the flywheel.
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