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Hyundai Santa Fe (2006 and earlier)

1737476787985

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    codata99codata99 Member Posts: 123
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    tsberkey4tsberkey4 Member Posts: 40
    My moonroof is aftermarket (solaire 5300) and it has the same problem. What works better for us, since opening a window causes a great amount of unwanted noise, is to only open the roof to about 80-90% open. You probably won't notice any difference with regard to air flow, but your ears will thank you immensely!!!
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I just found the Hyundai technical support site, where they list the procedure and part numbers for adding/changing the cabin air filter. The website is: https://dcsonline.hyundaidealer.com/customer/index.jsp

    Look in the Technical Bulletin section and you will find a folder with this section in it. The Hyundai part number for the air filter is 97619-38100. It IS NOT a factory installed part per their website.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I contacted the Consumer Affairs department at Hyundai and told them of my problem with the moon roof and of my dealer's position that "they all do that" and that I would have to purchase a wind deflector myself to fix the problem.

    They opened a file on this and agreed to reimburse me for the $50 cost of a Hyundai wind deflector upon sending them a receipt. It does not cover the installation, which I'll do myself anyway.

    Two comments about this. One, my dealer will most certainly hear about this, at least from me if not from Hyundai as well. "They all do that" is not the right answer to give a customer when dealing with a vehicle problem, regardless if it is by mechanical failure or design flaw. Second, this is not the first time Hyundai has helped me out when a dealer either wouldn't or couldn't. One more reason to purchase a Hyundai.
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    codata99codata99 Member Posts: 123
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    ndrwkllyndrwklly Member Posts: 1
    has anybody on this message board purchased the extended 10-year bumper-to-bumper warranty? if so, what did you pay?
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    abitjadedabitjaded Member Posts: 5
    I checked around town; $1550 is the lowest I found for the 10 year bumper to bumper. I paid $1750 at another dealer and I had to talk the dealer down from $1900. A friend said that I should not have done this (as the normal warrenty is so good), but just one automatic window mechanism breaks and it is $500. Also, costs for repair are going up-think what 10 years of inflation will do with repair costs. I tend to keep my cars 10 yrs; also there is the transferability clause if I do decide to sell.
    Brad
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    abitjadedabitjaded Member Posts: 5
    We have found that there is a acceleration hesitation (push hard on accelerator and nothing happens)- scarey in an emergency situation. mechanic at dealer confirmed this hesitation (said it was found in other 3.5 L engine cars beside the Santa Fe - such as in Kia models with same engine; the mechanic said that there is no physical mechanism between accelerator pedal and engine; it is an electronic linkage and there is a problem).
    Also, when I brake and hit a bump just before an intersection, the transmission does not seem to know what to do and I have skidded into the same intersection twice now. Otherwise, apparently there is a problem for mechanics to access computer records of car with handheld computers but this is not major. I am very happy with the Santa Fe purchase so far.
    Brad
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I did find the blue shipping film still stuck to the moon roof factory air deflector. Removing it did not help at all... there is still a deafening low frequency vibration/noise. My air deflector should arrive Monday and I should have it installed by Wednesday. This should fix the problem.
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    esamsonesamson Member Posts: 4
    Anyone out there recently buy the 3.5L 4x4 LS with Sunroof? I am trying to buy one (my first car) and the dealer tells me he can't go below $22,900. Help!
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I paid about $23,650 for the LX 2wd with moonroof. The only dealer-installed option on the car was a gold badging which added an extra $150. I got them to throw in the roof rack cross rails, mud guards a pair of cab step-ups and my first oil change. Those freebies taken into account, the actual vehicle cost me just over $23,000. LX with AWD & moonroof for $22,900??? I'd take it!

    Be advised, don't bother to have the dealer install a tow hitch (@ $350). You can buy a bolt on model most anywhere for about $160. They made a couple hundred EASY dollars from me on that one.
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    esamsonesamson Member Posts: 4
    Well the dealer called back today and agreed to our price of 21,900 for the GLS 3.5L AWD with Sunroof. He said we could also get $1000 rebate, bringing the car to 20,900. He won't send me anyting in writing, however, and insists that I come in before he can figure out the financing. I feel like this is too good to be true. Anyone have any thoughts?
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    abitjadedabitjaded Member Posts: 5
    This is a very very good price; but remember that once you get past the sales people, you then go to the finance people. If the sales people stick to the original low price, do you have a trade in? do you want lowest finance rate (they can make a huge profit here; I would hold out for at least 4.5 percent or below), do you want the bumper to bumper extension to 10 years (see my earlier post of a cost of $1550), will they hit you with dealer prep (typically $400, or more they ask for more?), and will they demand that you put on a plastic layer over the front of the vehicle ($200) or some other wierd extra? Be ready with whatever surprising extra cost that they come up with and you should have already estimated costs for these extras.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If it's not in writing, don't make dinner reservations at "Chez Ritz" to celebrate the new SUV just yet. You may want to get an approval letter from an on-line lender (like our ad partner, PeopleFirst) to use instead of dealer financing or as a negotiation tool.

    Dealer prep should be included in the sales price, not added on, imho. And protection packages, VIN etching, pin stripes -- all that stuff isn't needed and is mostly dealer profit.

    If you want the extended warranty you can negotiate it now, but you can always buy it later, and I suspect any Kia dealer will be happy to sell you one. Not to mention the aftermarket extended warranty companies out there (I think we run ads for one of them too <g>).

    Good luck Esamson, and keep reminding yourself that it's a buyer's market right now and stick to your guns.

    Steve, Host
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    over the front of a car as a condition of purchase? Please tell me no one has fallen for that!

    I was lucky enough to have two dealerships relatively close to each other. One quoted me a great price, but when I went to see the vehicle they didn't have one on their lot but 'could get it very quickly'. What they were quoting me on was the same vehicle that was on the other dealer's lot (both dealerships are owned by the same person, so they share a common inventory list). Since that dealership had "miss communicated" with me regarding having the vehicle physically on their lot, I elected not to do business with them. I should also note that the dealer who had physical posession of the vehicle would not release it to the other dealership because of our "pending deal". Anyone who would lie (about availability, price, etc.) just to get you on their lot is practicing unethical salesmanship. The same kind of dealership who might also employ unethical people in the service department. This dealership showed me two other vehicles with the same trim line that day. One had a pronounced engine knock, the other had 2,000 miles on it and had been used by a smoker. As if!

    Case in point: This same unethical dealership's parts department manager said the moon roof deflector for my car that I ordered would be in this past Monday. When I called the parts department at the dealership where I purchased my vehicle for the same part, they told the truth: Hyundai is re-designing the part and it hasn't been released for sale yet. The OLD part is still available, but has been proven defective. This is probably the part the unethical dealership wants to sell me.

    esamson, if the dealer you have been speaking to can't or won't get you a valid, in stock VIN # and written agreement, I hope the drive back home from the dealer isn't too far. I hope you get a fantastic deal from them. Let us know what happens.
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    esamsonesamson Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for all the advice, I had no idea people on here would be so friendly/helpful. Since this is my first time buying a car, it is pretty confusing. We took your advice and filled out an online loan application so that if he tries to screw us on the financing we can tell him we'll take the price and finance it through someone else. I don't know if he'll let us do that, my guess is he'll only give us a good deal on the car if he rips us off on the financing. The first thing I will do when I go in today is see/drive the exact car we are talking about. If he doesn't have it, I'm walking out. He said he had it. I'm not going to buy any plastic coating or anything else, don't worry! I'll let you guys know how this goes, but I have a feeling I'll be looking for a new dealership soon! Thanks again.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    It's not that auto dealers try to rip you off on the financing (most of the time, anyway). But they do get "incentives" to sign you up with a particular bank. I don't know if the dealer gets any money back for steering you through HMFC (Hyundai Motor Finance Company) but for what it is worth my loan has an APR of 5.75%. Which isn't too bad, but if you afford to take them up on the 0% loan, that is probably your best bet. My credit union has loan rates as low as 4.50% on a 36 month loan, but I needed to finance more than the purchase price of the car and they wouldn't do that. Good luck!
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    esamsonesamson Member Posts: 4
    We went to the dealer last night to buy the car at the price agreed over the phone. First, it turns out, they "sold that car yesterday" so they no longer had it in stock. They said they could get it the next day. Then, instead of writing up the report at 21,900, the price we agreed to, he wrote it up at 22,900. He didn't tell us he had made this little change, but of course we caught it. He said we "misunderstood" him on the phone (twice) when we clearly talked about 21,900 minus the $1000 rebate. At this point I wanted to walk out, but he said he'd check to see if he could do the price. He came back with his manager and said he couldn't and that 22,900 was already below his cost. Long story short (too late), we got pissed and walked out. He also made us give back the credit report he gave us (or he said we could buy it for $20). We made him rip it up. Even though we still want the car, we are thinking about buying something else just so we don't have to deal with these sleazy sales people. Very dissapointed not to have a car.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    Sorry to hear your deal went sour. I was also confused when my dealer started talking about where exactly the rebate was factored into the sale. I was under the impression that the factory was to send me the check. Instead the dealer sent me a check (from their account) and the rebate was factored into my loan. Therefore, I have to pay sales tax on the rebate! My intentions are to contact my state attorney general's office about this... it just doesn't seem right although, in the words of the dealer, they were requried by law to do it this way.

    $22,900 would still be a great price for the AWD LX though. Maybe you can reach a compromise... say $22,400? Best of luck!
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    boltguyboltguy Member Posts: 94
    I just bought a base Santa Fe GL with package 2, and I found it pretty simple to negotiate through email. But instead, try to negotiate the "on the road price", taking into account rebates, taxes, tags, freight, whatever dealer fees. I did this, went to the dealership, test drove the car, signed the papers and was out in less than 30 minutes. The dollar figure was down to the penny. Plus they didn't try to get me to buy anything extra. I.E,extended warranty, scotchguard, gap insurance. I guess they figured an internet buyer wasn't going for that. Edmund's has a great way to "mass email" many local dealerships. Alot won't give you prices over email, but some will. Mine was $17091 total cost with package #2, a pretty good deal. Also had my financing through peoplefirst.com so that was easy too. It really isn't hard to get invoice minus any rebates for a car anymore, plus the great interest rates.
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    valli2valli2 Member Posts: 10
    I have done exhaustive research on various makes and models in the past few months. I like the price, warranty, style and more about the Santa Fe. I read a review somewhere, I think at JD Powers in which he compared the Front wheel drive and the 4 Wheel drive Santa Fe. His conclusion was that there was a big difference in the acceleration, handling and overall ride of both. Outcome; the 4WD was slower, heavier and not as nice a ride as the Front wheel. Help! What do you think? I live in New York and we can have some pretty nasty winters and rainy seasons where I would think the 4WD would come in handy. But if the 2WD is better all around I would like to condsider it.IT would seem that the 4WD would also need more repairs down the line. Yes? I would love some feedback from those that know how differrent they really are. Thank you so much,Va
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    In my humble opinion, I would go for the AWD. Reasoning:

    The 10yr warranty covers drive train components, which includes AWD system. More than likely you will sell the vehicle long before the warranty runs out, unless you put a lot more than 12k miles on it annually.

    Higher resale.

    Better to have the capability and not need it than to not have it and need it.

    To play devil's advocate, reasons for not going with AWD:

    Gas mileage (IF you drive a lot of miles annually). Plan on spending about $150 more each year for every 10k miles you drive.

    Drivability. True, the AWD is slightly less responsive as the 2wd. However, if speed/response is an issue, an SUV is the wrong way to go anyway.

    I elected to get the 2wd model mostly for the higher MPG rating and we don't get much ice/snow in the south. The price difference in the two models was another factor as well. It was very close to a toss up. Now that I've done my research after the fact, I wish I had gotten the AWD if for no other reason than the resale value.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    One other note... had Hyundai made the AWD selectable, it would have been a no-brainer. The lack of a drive selection meant that I had to take a 2-4 mpg loss year 'round when we average snow on the ground for only 2 days per year. The standard traction control and ABS on the LX is enough for me.
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    meeeepstermeeeepster Member Posts: 10
    Went to the dealer today with the TSB from the Hyundai web site on the cabin air filter for the Sante Fe. Before I showed him the TSB I asked how much the filter would be just for the part and for the part with installation. he had no clue as to what I was talking about.

    Showed him the TSB. After running around with the TSB to all the people of any importance in the service department he came back with the following unbelievable figures.

    $30.00 for the filter and $130 to install it. He clearly had no idea what was involved with the installation as he said they would bill for 2 hours of technician time to do the job. Needless to say, I'll do it myself
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    meeeepstermeeeepster Member Posts: 10
    I'm in NY and I have the 2WD 2.7L LX. I chose the 2WD for the reasons you mentioned in your post (so I won't repeat them in mine).

    While it is true that the winters here can be bad, the roads are usually cleared within 24 hours of a snowfall. Once they have been cleared, the front wheel drive is really more then adequate. At least for me it is.
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    ritsainritsain Member Posts: 3
    Bought a GLS 3.5L 2wd with 6cd player for 19300+tax'ntag in central NJ (INVOICE+DEST =21,038) . I was willing to pay more, but the dealer seemed fine with this price. I think it's good deal, but the ease with which the dealer agreed to it has made me rethink. What do you think. Has a anybody got a better deal.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    Just thought I'd pass the word along on this popular subject. I visited a local Hyundai dealer yesterday and price the air filter at about $25 (Hyundai p/n 97619-3D000), but none was in stock. I then went to AutoZone. They do not have this part in stock yet, but will later this fall. They already have a manufacturer in their system. I was told that they would not stock it until the new model years came out and there was an anticipated demand for the part as the original ones came up for replacement. I'm sure they'll beat Hyundai's price by about $10.
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    andyz3andyz3 Member Posts: 10
    I need to install a trailer hitch on my 03 Santa Fe FWD. I know there are a several aftermarket suppliers, Which one fits the best and what about the wiring harness. Does anyone know where I can order a plug in harness? I really don't want to cut wires to install a universal one. The dealer don't want to sell just the harness, hitch and wiring $300. Thanks for any help
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    Please disregard the part number I listed in post #3996. I went to a different Hyundai dealer yesterday, and they informed me that the Santa Fe takes a different filter than the Sonata. It's supposed to be in on Monday, and after successful installation I'll fill ya'll in.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I don't know of anyone that makes a "plug in" wiring harness. Where would you plug it in to? There are no open connectors on any vehicle's wiring harness as far as I've ever known.

    I don't know what brand hitch my dealer installed on my SF, but the $350 price was ridiculous considering it was a bolt-on accessory. I don't know if 'Hidden Hitch' is a brand name or just a type of hitch, but those are tucked underneath the vehicle and pretty much out of view. My dealer-installed hitch doesn't protrude out very far (about 1" from the bumper without hitch sleeve) and that's fine by me.

    The most important thing is that you match the hitch capacity to your vehicle's capacity (I don't know what that is off the top of my head, and it varies with vehicle and engine size). I need to put a decal on my hitch, as it is rated higher than the vehicle can pull. I wouldn't want someone to read the capacity on the hitch and assume that the vehicle can pull that as well.
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    meeeepstermeeeepster Member Posts: 10
    Part #97619-38100
    TSB # for installation/replacement: 03-97-002
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    jaserbjaserb Member Posts: 820
    YES there is a "plug-in" wiring harness specially made for the Santa Fe. Go to eTrailer.com (no affiliation, just a satisfied customer - in fact I just ordered a hitch from them for my other car earlier today) and you can get both the hitch and the harness for a very good price. I believe mine is a Draw-tite brand. To install the harness you need to disassemble the rear interior panels a bit, then unplug a connector near the rear speakers on each side. The harness plugs into the factory connectors.

    There are instructions for everything. If you're squeamish about, say, replacing your speakers on your own you might want to hire an installer.

    Oh, and the hitch tucks very neatly into the bumper so that only the reciever can be seen.

    -Jason
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    tsberkey4tsberkey4 Member Posts: 40
    We have a 2002 with 25K on it in 15 months. We live in South Central Michigan and get our fair share of snow and other garbage in the winter. We have never had an ounce of problem getting around in the worst of it with our 2WD Santa Fe. For reasons already mentioned, I would go with the 2WD UNLESS you absolutely had to have 4WD, and not many people in the US can say that they do!

    Good luck.

    Tim :)
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    libertycatlibertycat Member Posts: 593
    you add in value. Then it jumps into second above the RAV4 and below the Liberty. But the Liberty is more expensive so if you have other uses for $2K besides a slightly better SUV IMO, get the Sante Fe.
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    teleman2teleman2 Member Posts: 2
    Got a price from a dealer just wondering what you think out there: 2wd gls 3.5 abs,traction control moonroof,6cd changer $21150 -$1000 rebate total cost $20150...

    Pete
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    crowgirl2crowgirl2 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2.7 gls AWD three weeks ago--on June 30th to be precise--with a roof rack/cross bars the only option. Got it for $19,800 (plus tax and tag.) I decided to spring $12 for the Consumer Reports' pricing guide and, if it is to be believed, I paid $260 over wholesale. I only got 21mpg around town on the first fill-up which was certainly less than what I've gotten in the past with my Hondas, but this is a much heavier vehicle.

    I test drove EVERY other small SUV on the planet and the Santa Fe came out light-years ahead of the others on value for the money (especially when you consider their incredible warranty.) Handling on the AWD feels very secure. I live in upper east Tennessee (near the NC border) and am not infrequently on some fairly treacherous roads in hostile weather. Nothing she can't handle so far. Three weeks isn't nearly long enough to make a firm recommendation, but I can say that I've never been this in love with vehicle.

    Hope this helps other prospective buyers. Will be more than happy to answer any questions.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    Installed the OEM cabin air filter yesterday. About a 30 minute job, and I consider myself very mechanically inclined. Didn't realize that you have to drop the glove box assembly completely. You can take the air filter access cover off by just dropping the the glove box door and removing the glove box itself, but to actually insert the filter you have to remove the glove box door frame as well. You can't install the filter backwards, as it has a dimple on it that fits into a detent on the access door.
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    hottubdavehottubdave Member Posts: 2
    Purchased a 2003 Black Santa Fe LX, 2WD for 21,924 before all fees and $1000 rebate. Came with roof rack rails, mud guards and cargo tray. Basically, $809 under invoice.

    I e-mailed about 10 dealers asking for their price based on my requirements. I was flexible in options. I could have been happy with no options to having all options... with the exception of the tow hitch and sunroof. Didn't want either one. I got 6 prices and one telling me he didn't have what I was looking for. After comparing the prices, I thought I had figured out who had come in the lowest. It wasn't until I went to the dealership and figured out at that point that his price he quoted already included the $1000 rebate. A little something he conveniently omitted from his bid. This tactic was on two or three of the bids. Just a word to wise for all of you if you are using this method. Overall, using the e-mail method was much better than haggling on-site. I hate it with a passion. IMO, internet pricing is the way to go.

    -HTD
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Please check out the Hyundai Santa Fe: Prices Paid & Buying Experience discussion - details in there are most appreciated.

    Steve, Host
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    leighsahleighsah Member Posts: 3
    I bought the car 3/30/03. I brought it back on the 31st as the transmission was "lurching". I don't know how else to describe what is happening other than when the car shifts gears (auto tranny), the car will lurch. From one gear to the next higher one, there is a noticable lurch. Sometimes so forceful, people will be moved or open drinks will spill.

    The same thing happens in reverse when the car is coasting around curves. I can duplicate the deceleration at will with two different "curvy" sections of neighborhood, low speed streets. In the deceleration exercise, it feels and acts like I have downshifted in a manual from 3rd to 2nd gear doing 40. The front end dips, everyone/thing in the car is rather forcefully moved forward and the rpm's rise. I am gently pressing on the break and basically coasting to a stop. The speed will be 25 mph, around sharp curves and I will be gently braking for an upcoming stop sign. I do not nor have I ever touched the shiftronic section of the gear shift.

    The car will occasionally get stuck in gear. This doesn't happen every time, but often enough that I am very careful driving. I will be driving, but maintaining a speed. A car will enter the roadway 300 feet ahead of me. Rather than brake, I take my foot off the accelerator and coast until the entering traffic has gained speed. When I attempt to accelerate to regain speed, the gear may or may not shift. The RPM's will rise, the car will accelerate, but the gears won't shift. I've gotten as high as 5500 rpm's at 50mph. The only way I've found to get the gears to shift when this happens is to stop pressing on the accelerator, let the car coast and allow the rpm's to drop to close to idle. Then try accelerating again. Only once has this not worked and I repeated the exercise and the gears finally shifted.

    When the car is cold and I put it in reverse, like backing out of the driveway or from a parking space, with each revolution of the tires, there is a loud thud and then a grinding coming from the driver rear side. This goes away when I' ve driven several miles. If I am just making several short stops, the sound and grinding will remain with every stop.

    The interior light while set on door, may or may not work when the rear hatch is opened. No seeming method to this one. It works sometimes and other times it doesn't. It is clearly set on door.

    The headlights will flash on and off while driving at speeds over 30 mph. This light failure is only for a split second and if you aren't watching for it, you may miss it while driving, but it is quite clear when someone else is driving the car and I am watching for it with the Hyundai in the rearview mirror.

    The gas mileage is bad. I live in Florida with no hills unless you count the highway overpass. I got the GLS with 2WD and average 17 mpg on the highway. I am not a leadfoot by any stretch of the imagination. The Hyundai replaced a Jeep Grand Cherokee (175K miles) with a heavy duty towing package and 4WD that got 17 mpg in the city and 27 on the highway.

    The car is on it's fourth visit to the dealer in as many months. They keep telling me everything tests fine on the computer. The car is at the shop again currently.

    I looked at every SUV out there when I was shopping. I really like the Hyundai and everyone else I have talked to has had great luck, but this car seems like a lemon.

    Does anyone have any suggestions or know how to address any of these problems?

    Leighsah
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    Leighsah,

    I wouldn't give up on Hyundai in general, but your's does seem to have it fair share of problems. I'm surprised the dealer hasn't been able to duplicate the transmission problem during a road test. Maybe you need to have a tech come out to the house in the morning and drive it first thing in the morning.

    The dome light is just a switch hanging up, I'm sure. They should fix this without batting an eye.

    As for the headlights, that is a new one on me. I've not heard of this before.

    Don't give up, and don't give in. Keep hounding the dealer until they fix it, replace the vehicle or give you your money back.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    hottubdave,

    Since you didn't get the moonroof option, the crossrails come free with the vehicle. If your dealership charged you for them, I would probably have an issue with them.

    Congratulations on a great deal! I've got the same package but with the moonroof for $23,650 ($22,650 after rebate). The dealer added side step rails, mud flaps, "gold" package (gold plated badging), etched anit-theft window glass and cross rails for free. Despite all this, you still wound up getting a much better deal than I.
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    twospiritstwospirits Member Posts: 4
    I've noticed that some have mentioned the Cabin Air Filter as well as other modifications for the Santa. I've placed most of the modifications and install guides to some aftermarket items on my website for Santa Fe owners. Grouping all the mods and installs in one place allows you to easily and quickly locate them and see what is involved in performing the modifications / installs.
    The website is http://home.nyc.rr.com/twospirits411/

    Among the mods/installs listed are..
    Rear Fog Light Conversion
    OEM Fog Light Install
    Fog Light only with Parking lights mod
    Washer Light (signaling) Install
    Radio Noise Filter install
    Installing Indiglo Gauges instuctions
    Converting side markers to signal markers
    Accessing the Cabin Air Filter
    Headlight Buzzer mod
    Rear Spoiler install guide
    Side Steps install guide
    Adding Fender Flares guide
    and much more.
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    jliedekajliedeka Member Posts: 5
    I'm getting closer to buying a new vehicle and I will be test driving the Santa Fe tomorrow. I will be driving one with a 2.7 and one with a 3.5. If I'm happy with the 2.7, I'll be deciding between it and the Honda CRV. If I can't live with the 2.7, I'll be comparing the 3.5 with the Mazda Tribute, Ford Escape and Toyota Highlander.

    I like the looks of the Santa Fe so if everything else is equal or close I will get one. The one thing I haven't been able to tell from reading spec sheets is what is the car like in real world use.

    Those of you that use if for towing, what are you towing with your Santa Fe? I'd like to be able to tow a boat and a pop-up camper at some point. Can it tow a 17 foot runabout?

    I'd also like to know how good it is for hauling stuff. Could someone share experience with hauling stuff like lumber and other home fixing stuff?

    Thanks.
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    tsberkey4tsberkey4 Member Posts: 40
    Thanks for the posting. WHAT A COOL SITE!!! So many of these mods I have wanted, but didn't think possible without spending a bundle. (Simple stuff like parking/fog lights and unswitched AC outlet)

    Anyone who hasn't viewed his site, do yourself a favor and look at it. MANY cool things for our Santa Fe's.
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    richsaprichsap Member Posts: 93
    I haven't towed anything with my Santa Fe yet, but I would definitely recommend the 3.5L engine if you plan on towing anything.

    As far as hauling stuff, mine is too new to put anything but groceries in at this point (and only if they are triple bagged!), but from what I hear the rear seats are not the easiest in the world to fold down because you must first remove the headrests, then buckle the seats down in place.

    Some other advice: Invest the extra money in the AWD version if you can. Higher resale later down the line, and the extra parts are all drive line and therefore covered by the 100k warranty. The gas mileage difference for the 3.5L engine is negligible.
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    jchatt55jchatt55 Member Posts: 10
    I have not towed anything yet. I have a 2002 GL 2.7 AWD. I believe it is rated to tow up to 2500, but I would check that. I recently hauled about 850 pounds of stone. The vehicle drove fine without any noticeable moans and groans. When I arrived home I did notice that the wheels angled out slightly. I wouldn't haul that weight again. I made the same trip with 500 more pounds and the car was great.
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    jliedekajliedeka Member Posts: 5
    After driving both the 2.7 and the 3.5, I think the 2.7 has enough power for me. If I decide I want to tow a boat, I can always trade up :)
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    hyundai35hyundai35 Member Posts: 5
    None or very few Japanies or Korean imports have full time power to their 12 Volts accessory outlets. I cost me $160.00 to have the dealer hot wire and fuse two outlets. I recharge my cell phone and digital camera batteries in my Santa Fe which reqire full time power for best battery life. If you need full-time power to the 12 volt outlets, be aware it will cost you or maybe your dealer will make the improvement as part of the sale price. I did not know this until after I signed the sales agreement. Otherwise, it's been a good ride so far. Still have my concerns about the automatic transmission shifting. I am, Hyundai35
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    jliedekajliedeka Member Posts: 5
    That should be easy enough to do yourself. I'm planning to hotwire mine as soon as I get a SF.
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