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15K check-up cost is $200...does that sound expensive to you all?
Seriously, if the dealer wants to do anything more that what's recommended in the owner's manual under non-rough service then ask him to have the factory pay for it since it wasn't an expense you planned for upon purchasing the vehicle.
By my book 15k should cost about $50.
http://www.autosite.com/garage/repairqa/ques123.asp
If they have made some mid-model change in the maintenance schedule (this is EXTREMELY UNLIKELY) you will be able to confirm this by e-mailing Toyota itself. Hey, maybe you should ask the service manager where you are taking yours to produce a copy of the letter from "the factory" showing that this has been changed!
BTW, I know this apples and oranges, but I could not find a routine transmission fluid change in the schedule for my new Matrix anywhere before 100K.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Want a laugh? One of my local dealers has developed their own maintenance guide. 13.5K miles is considered a "major" service. The service includes all fluids, air filter, "top engine" cleaning (whatever that is), fuel filter, fuel injector cleaning, the all important glove box and gas door lubrication, along with a million different checks and inspections (oh yeah, a brake fluid flush also).
I hope that no one actually buys this service. It makes me shiver to think about all of the perfectly good fluids that are being wasted.
If you're not planning on towing or often traveling in mountenous terrain then the 4 cyl will be fine. The AWD model is worthless so stick with the 2WD with VSC.
But if you are going to get AWD, you HAVE to get the V-6 in this model. This adds almost 300 pounds to the weight and it is pretty challenged already with the 4-cyl.
Reliability should be excellent - this is one of the infamous sludge engines, but it has an enormously long warranty (8 years) from Toyota, and if you are buying new, they have already changed the design to fix this anyway. And except for this issue, this V-6 has been doing stellar service for a long time.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Apparently in crash tests there is a potential of the breather hose to break causing the clamps to come in contact with the fuel tank which can result in fuel leakage.
Bottom line, my advice would be to consider the primary use you'll have for the HL and buy the engine which best suits that need. I4 = mostly in-town driving. V6 = mostly highway and/or frequent towing or heavy loads.
Finally, I would recommend that you purchase the "tow PREP" option, as this provides additional cooling for the engine and transmission, a higher capacity alternator, and pre-wiring for a trailer. For the $160 extra, this is a very good deal. (Bear in mind that the PREP is everything EXCEPT the hitch itself).
Hey Cliffy....
Did I misspeak? Care to toss in your thoughts??
The FWD (w/VSC) version will give just as good service at a cheaper price and you won't need the extra HP of the V6 to haul that useless extra AWD weight around.
I try to direct my comments to those that are thinking of buying, but regrettably those of you that have already bought get to see them also.
What I have tried to say is that the FWD RX or HL will give just as adequate performance in ANY condition as one with an attached AWD label. That label on the HL & the RX is virtually meaningless.
They do deliver about 5, maybe 10, percent of the torque to the rear wheels but if the front wheels lose traction there will never be enough torque delivered to the rear wheels to get the vehicle moving forward from a standing start.
I have proven that to be true on both a 00 AWD RX300 and an 01 AWD RX300. And I have put the 01 on a 4 wheel dyno to verify my own findings.
I have never seen the MB demonstration of the ML capabilities versus the RX, and when I first heard of it I disbelieved it because I had a great deal of faith that Lexus would not sell me a "pig in a poke". After a couple of minor instances when my 00 RX didn't quite act right I began to doubt. That's when I did my initial testing.
I traded up to the 01 because it appeared to me on reading the operational description and listening to the salesman that with the adoption of VSC and Trac that the Trac system was simuliar. to the ML, the RX would automatically brake a slipping wheel and thereby force engine torque distribution to wheels with traction remaining.
It doesn't.
But the VSC aspect does seem to work and work well.
If you do get to see the ML versus RX demonstration you will see what I mean, no trickery is involved.
I now have 34,000 miles on my HL and the engine still feels brand new. I only use Mobil 1 Synthtic oil and change every 5,000 miles.
>> Holdback is an amount that is part of the invoice which we are refunded at the
>> end of each quarter.
>> Financial reserve is similar to holdback. The difference is, this money is set aside to
>> assist the dealership in paying its floorplan interest.
Thanks for the explanation, yet I am a little bit confused. I think the purpose of
holdback IS to cover the interests paid for the car by dealer, as described in
edmunds' "What is Dealer Holdback?", so what is Financial reserve for?
In retrospect it was probably a damn foolish thing to do, and please no one else even come near trying this for themselves, but I held a torque wrench on one rear wheel with the other blocked from turning (with all four wheels elevated) while my wife ran the RPM up. about 70 ft lbs was were it topped out at 2000 RPM.
Obviously I had already confirmed the likely results before I did that. I had blocked both rear wheels with light pine 1X2s which I could hear creaking as the RPM went up but there was not enough torque to the rear to shear either of those.
If someone can tell me why Trac didn't kick in and break my arm, or worse, I'm listening.
Haven't tried it in the snow, yet, though. : )
I commend you on trying to assimilate a loss of traction at the front wheels, however I would contend that the test is flawed. The HL's AWD system uses variation in wheel speed to produce a change in the (VC)viscous coupling's fluid and subsuquent change in the normal 50/50 torque split. Since the front wheels are off the ground they are spinning at the same speed. You haven't introduced a variation in the speed between these wheels to affect a change at the VC. I'm surprise you didn't damage your transmission or VC. I'm by no means an expert on these systems, but years of experience racing an AWD Talon in rally competition with basically the same system (AWD, 50/50 split, VC) as the HL has shown how effective AWD vs FWD can be. The AWD class was consistently faster than the FWD class, and we were always helping the cars w/FWD who happen to venture too far off course and got stuck. I hate to beat a dead horse, but to say that AWD is "non-functional" and "virtually useless" compared to FWD is baseless when comparing your test to the substantial body of literature that says otherwise and IMHO my own "real world experiences".
I'm not questioning whether the RX300's AWD system could be made to work or not. What I am saying is that the formulation of the viscous fluid in the RX was specifically selected such that the vehicle could be ethically marketed as AWD without incurring the cost of de-coupling the VC during heavy braking as is done by more adequate, competitive, VC designs.
I can personally attest to that!
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
New subject: Now I have no idea how this part is implemented but the RX/HL AWD does not have anything close to a 50/50 F/R torque split. To the best that could be measured on the dyno, it starts out at about 90/10 F/R and under extreme "duress" the VC will "stiffen" and allocate about 25 to 30% to the rear.
I suspect that it might have something to do with the different final drive ratio for the front vs the rear.
In the conditions you describe I've never found either a FWD or RWD vehicle to be of any problem for getting around provided you're willing to excercise a little conservatism in your driving style.
cmuniz: The idea is to have enough traction to get about 4000 lbs moving in a reasonable fashion without having the engine torque overcome that which is available. I will willingly grant you that once it's moving the RX AWD system will almost always appear to be adequate, but then so would most FWD or RWD vehicles.
I think you would agree that the more evenly the engine torque is distributed over the available roadbed traction devices the more likely you are to be able to make that initial "move".
My testing has shown that the native torque distribution is nowhere near "even". And don't we then have to ask ourselves, "Hey, this is a Lexus, why are we being short-changed?"
And, just why are we being short-changed, is the rear driveline and systems not capable, sturdy enough, for handling 50% of the engine torque?
Even part-time?
I'd almost be willing to bet the issue was initially time-to-market. Had Toyota, in 97(?) had a low cost AWD system "off-the-shelf" that was in the class of the one in the Chrysler T&C I have no doubt that it would have been used. But what they did have (or way to quickly designed)was a cheap workaround that could be marketed as AWD, maybe with nobody ever the wiser.
Still feel the same way about Toyota though.
But, put me in a non-offroad circumstance wherein AWD is really needed and I'll be glad to give you an evaluation of the drive type and system capability within about a hundred yard long S-curve.
And if you like I'll even take the time to teach you why a rear torque biased AWD or 4WD is safer and nore capable overall than any front torque biased AWD or 4WD(are there any of these, front torque biased 4WD?).
What about it? If we began talking about Highlanders, it could make some folks slide right off this message board road. In a couple of months, someone undoubtedly will want a re-hashing of the esoteric dynamics of Lexus AWD, and at that point, I will kindly volunteer to call a wrecker.
(Okay, I can dream.)
And I would strongly suspect taht the HL and the RX share the very same VSC/Trac/ABS firmware and hardware.
And also, is that Talon AWD thing pertinent? Didn't that car have an old-style center viscous coupling so that it was essentially running 50% front 50% rear all the time, and then shifting power AWAY from the slipping wheels?
Either way, I would think that the AWD HL would be an improvement over the 2WD w/ VSC, in any situation where traction to move forward were needed, because all the VSC does is slow down slipping wheels, which means that in that icy driveway scenario, VSC will just kill power to those slipping front wheels, and the car will not move!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Personally I have got 40,000+ miles and two winters driving here in Salt Lake area in a AWD HL. Although I didnt really want the AWD for milage reasons initially, I can tell you the AWD makes a BIG difference over FWD in the real world, on snow and ice (Have a FWD Camry). In fact the only times I've broken loose the rear wheels on packed snow is going too fast around corners....
Has anyone had this procedure performed yet? Any problems. How long did it take?
While the HL or RX's AWD systems aren't as good as the MB M-class' or other vehicles on the market, it will certainly get you moving far better in snow than a FWD vehicle.
Are there other places to drive in snow besides the real world? :-)
tidester
Host
SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
Cascade mountain passes. For about ten years or more our DOT has been CLOSING the mountain passes during the times they need to be cleared, while the snow plows were out. Prior to that if you couldn't install chains you weren't allowed to proceed. In those days a few people made out quite well renting tire chains, installed, both directions.
I don't think any RX or HL has been around when there was a need to travel over one of our Cascade mountain passes that hadn't already been "cleared" by DOT.
Many, many times I have seen motorists with FWD cars become really irate that the Oregon State patrol would not allow them to proceed to the Ski mountain with snow chains on the front.
Two feet of snow in Buffalo in 24 hours.
No, that doesn't happen here.
It snows about 6 to 8 inches on Sunday. Monday the sun comes out and melts the "top" which of course promptly refreezes the following night. On Tuesday we get another 5 or 6 inches of snow in the morning which by afternoon has turned to freezing rain. On Wednesday we have another warming trend and then on Thursday we arise to find a beautiful snow covered landscape with huge flakes still falling. Etc, etc.
Seattle is a lot like Memphis in that we don't get this kind of extreme weather very often so none of the city/county governments can justify the purchase of a high volume of snow removal equipment, unlike say, Buffalo, NY. Most people just stay put in these conditions and wait it out.
By the following Sunday we start to hear of building roofs collapsing due to the accumulated weight. So my wife tells me we had better tool up and get ourselves into Redmond and check our own building.
What we have out there is a layer of "black" ice on the pavement down at the bottom, then a layer of pacific boiler-plate (Cascade skiers will understand) about 5 inches thick, another layer of ice, etc, all the way up above the axles of a 1992 Jeep Cherokee Limited.
Can I get the Jeep moving in 2WD? Didn't even try.
In AWD with rear chains? NO!
In AWD with front AND rear chains? NO!
In 4WD with 4 Chains? Yes, we're finally on our way. Can I shift back to AWD once we're out on a more travelled roadbed? Yes, as long as I don't have to "restart" in a non-broken trail area.
That's just a few of my "real-world" experiences, and yes, none of them involved an RX300 nor an HL. Now for those of you that don't like the conclusions I draw from my own "real-world" experiences and my knowledge of the comparative shortcomings of the RX AWD, frankly my dears, I don't give a damn.
I'm writing this for those in the audience that know that 2+2 equals 4, and for those of you that simply cannot accept that, I wish you the best of luck, sincerely.
X5 bi-xenons.
I took my information from the BMW internet site and when someone posted that the site didn't indicate bi-xenon I went back and checked and verified that indeed it did, and in quite great detail. Now, I agree that several posters has said that it does not, but which shall I believe?
If you insist that I make some sort of admission in this regard the admission I will gladly make is that I don't have any firm idea, really, who is correct, BMW or the posters who claim that it does not. If I were still asked to chose I would chose BMW.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Do you guys think the '02 buy would be a good deal for invoice price(24,600) ?
But to say you believe that AWD is no better than FWD is dishonest on your part and a disservice to folks who might read your posts and not realize that you are putting them on...