Drove for the first time in significant snow this morning: all I can say is "I'm getting Winter Duelers first thing this weekend!" The stock Duelers did terribly, and they only have 9000 mi. on them. First, I turned a corner at around 10 mph and went into oversteer (the VSC alarm went off like crazy, really annoying, and I still ended up stopped perpendicular to the roadway just inches away from a parked car); next, around 2 mi. down the road, I nudged a Chevy Blazer while trying to stop straight from around 15 mph (ABS kicked in, though for a while I felt like the car was actually increasing its forward motion). If not for my front bumper guard, I know my car would've had some damage. Thankfully the other driver and his truck were okay and he just told me to drive slowly (which I was!).
4WD means nothing without traction. Hopefully, everyone goes through safely this winter.
As it doesn't snow much here in California I got bored and checked-out the Lexus RX330 discussion group (the RX330 is the re-designed RX300 based on the Highlander due out mid next year as a 2004 model). They've recently posted links to advanced pictures of it ("ClubLexus RX330 Pics, Nov 27, 2002); though the exterior doesn't remind me much of the Highlander, I find the general shapes of the interior to be strongly reminiscent of Highlander's.
(P.S.: The stock Bridgestones are doing just fine out here.)
"Doesn't have tire pressure monitors it detects tire pressure differentials by comparing ABS sensor rotational rates. "
That is correct. It is an excellent way of monitoring tire pressure. That's why GM calls it a "Tire pressure monitoring system". I had a slow leak 3 different times and the system saved me each time.
I've only owned this HL for 2 months today, but there's already been times where I really believe a car would have pulled out in front of me if those DRLs weren't lit. The extra fuel consumption is slight (just make one quick acceleration to 60mph and you'll use the same amount of extra gas that the DRLs will take over a couple of years). With all the electronics living in this car, alternator wear really won't be affected by this extra load. Yes, you will have to replace bulbs more often but that's still a small price to pay for an added measure of safety (even if the jury is still out on HOW MUCH extra safety they add).
Prevent me from being in an accident: not likely (but possible). Prevent 'grampa' from entering the roadway in front of me and my spending the next 5 minutes doing 20 in a 40 zone: worth a few extra bulbs over the years.
Your butt feel, sensor, was likely correct, your HL did speed up slightly when ABS kicked in. It is well proven that on unpacked snow ABS is detrimental to quicker stopping.
That's why I've always said that ABS should be "coupled" to VSC so that it doesn't activate unless directional control is "threatened".
The Toyota/Lexus low voltage DRL circuit design causes premature failure of the hign beam bulbs. Sooty coating buildup on the inside of the bulb and that will eventually lead to the glass melting and bulb failure. At about 12k miles in my case.
I rewired mine so the fog lamps come on at full voltage for "DRL". Also allows me to have the fogs on without the interference of the low beams.
Has anyone replaced the stock speakers with Infinity speakers? I recently heard a pair at the Good Guys and they sounded pretty good. The sales guy said they'll fit perfectly and they're offering free installation and 50% off the second pair.
I'm of the opinion that lights should be on, all the time, except for the very rare circumstance when they need to be shut off (entering a dark campsite or the like). One can't deny it increases visibility, and I can't think of a normal driving situation where it would be detrimental.
Are the needed on a sunny summer day? Highly doubtful, but, "Is it dark enough to use headlights?" is a dangerous judgement question. At 6:30 am, a driver may think they don't need them. But, if you're coming the other way, their silver car is against a snow covered background on a salt covered road... throw in a little fog...
I have my regular lights come on as soon as I turn the car on. I may be burning through my light bulbs a wee bit faster, and may use a drop more fuel, but I can live with that.
The high beam "assemby" is considered more satisfactory for DRLs because they are aimed higher and have a reflector lens that focusses the beam far down the road. Much more visible at a getter distance for on-coming traffic.
But.
Full brightness high beams would be offensive to many so reduced brightness is the order of the day.
I know my fogs aren't likely to be visible at the great distance of low voltage high beams but it was a good compromise.
From what I've heard Infinity is a top-rated name in car speakers, especially their Kappa series and even more so for their Kappa Perfect series; let your ear be the final judge!
I have the S/Ts. They're "rugged" enough for the mild off-roading that I do. The ATs might ultimately be superior in the snow, but the STs are more than adequate.
There is a little more road noise than the stock Bridgestones, but you get used to it quickly.
I just picked up my 2003 HL Ltd I am very pleased - its great. I only have two minor issues or questions.
1) after backing out of a parking space, then moving forward, after a few seconds I can hear a buzzer / whirring noise from the engine compartment. It only lasts 1/2 a second. Any konw what this is?
2) Have a slight buzzing rattle coming from the center of the dash. Only does it on rutted roads or crossing freeway lanes with those dividing bumps. Anyone have a similiar issue
My $.02: I ordered the DRL's on my '02 Bluestone because I always drove my previous cars (Toyota Camry's, Corolla, Tercel) with lights on. Here's why: the two times I've been hit (minor fender benders) I didn't have them on. Don't want to press my luck with the best Toyota yet!
Another advantage of DRLs I don't believe anyone has mentioned yet is the insurance discount. I get about $18/year per vehicle. Not much, but every little bit helps when you have a teenage driver.
if you have the Toyota factory security system with the glass breakage system, the sensor for it is located under the little panel with the red flashing light that says "security" and has a picture of a key.
The sensor is a little microphone that is tuned to detect the particular pitch of the glass breaking, and if it does detect that, it will set off the alarm, immobilizing the vehicle and sounding the audible alarm.
You can test it by setting the alarm and then tapping the window glass with your car key. Be prepared with the remote for when the alarm goes off - the alarm is VERY LOUD!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks, Nippononly, for the clarification on the glass break sensor location.
Sorry, Nimron99, thought you already owned a HL and noticed the GBS wasn't located by the alarm status LED as noted in the alarm manual. BTW, I've never been able to make my alarm go off by tapping on the window, either. Just another reason why I perfer a motion sensor.
Nitpicking would be the lack of individual reading lights for driver and passenger, no timed auto off feature for the headlights or reading lights, the short timer on the ignition key light, the way the headrest don't lock in the upward direction, 60 MPH not being at 12 O'clock on the speedometer, the way the rear seatbelts flap around in the wind if not buckled, the lame cup holders (I have a 2001), the mediocre AC, the noisy fuel injectors when it's cold outside, and last but not least, the omission of a flip up rear window (even Steve's minivan has this feature.) :-)
On the positive side when it comes to the little things, I do find the dotted pattern on the windshield above the rearview mirror to be a clever feature that's very effective at blocking sun glare.
after backing out of a parking space, then moving forward, after a few seconds I can hear a buzzer / whirring noise from the engine compartment. It only lasts 1/2 a second. Anyone know what this is?
on the celica, 0 mph is at 6 o'clock, and 60 mph is at like 8:30! I love it - it is cool. You don't finally get it up to 12:00 until you are going 100 or so.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I just figured out where the noise was coming from when I drive over rutted bumps.
Its the auto-dimming mirror. There is a plastic cover over where it mounts to the window (presume its the compass). This is whats buzzing. Great - everything on my car is now perfect.
I tested the glass breakage sensor by clapping my hands inside the vehicle with the alarm on.
The only thing I can't figure out is the noise from the engine compartment which happens about 5 seconds after driving forward. It sounds like a the noise from a washer fluid pump motor. It only lasts about 1/2 second. Anyone know what this could be for - some kind of relay?
Lack of an outside temperature indicator. My '93 Volvo wagon had one, as did the '98 Corolla I rented when the wagon was in the shop. Geez, I figured every car must have them by now.
It might sound silly, but once you have one of these (and they seem quite accurate), you find yourself looking for one in every other car you get in to.
lack of individual reading lights for driver and passenger - no argument there, I agree
no timed auto off feature for the headlights or reading lights - the headlights as far as I know are auto-off
the short timer on the ignition key light - at least they have one, unlike most other cars on the road today, but I'll give you 1/2 a point for that one *hehe*
the way the headrest don't lock in the upward direction - convenience vs. safety. going down without locking would be unsafe for whiplash, but being able to adjust them upwards without pushing the button is convenient
60 MPH not being at 12 O'clock on the speedometer - what does that have to do with anything? Alot of highways still are 55mph and alot more are 65mph speed limits.
the way the rear seatbelts flap around in the wind if not buckled - there's a clip next to the side seat cushion.
the lame cup holders (I have a 2001) - made to accomodate mugs (I still don't get the whole cup-holder wars going on in cars)
the mediocre AC - this is an SUV (or tall wagon depending on who you talk to) and has ALOT more space to heat or cool. However, in most Toyota's, including the HL, I've found the A/C will freeze you out and the heat will toast you on the highest settings.
the noisy fuel injectors when it's cold outside - haven't noticed this one.
and last but not least, the omission of a flip up rear window - Toyota doesn't do this on almost any of their vehicles for a couple of reasons. First, for the rattles they almost always cause and secondly, when they're flipped up, they have a knack for catching rocks that have kicked up over the vehicle and shatter. I do wish they used the power rear window design from the 4Runner and Sequoia there though.
I haven't found any vehicle out in the market yet that I think is ABSOLUTELY perfect, but that's part of shopping around, finding one that the benefits outweigh the drawbacks. Be well.
If its a loud click you're hearing from the engine compartment when you first start driving then this is the self-test of the ABS system; the owner's manual mentions this.
megawattblues:
Wasn't sure if you were aware of it but Limited models have an outside temperature indicator.
My nitpick:
On Limited models, the screwy user-interface on the climate control system (at least on the 2001; maybe they've improved it on subsequent model years):
a. If you hit the AC button the AC will not come on unless if the fan is already on.
b. If the AC is on when the fan is turned off, it is re-activated the next time the fan is turned on.
c. If the fan isn't on you can't change the temperature setting even though it is affecting the temperature of the air entering the vehicle. You have to turn the fan on, adjust the temp, then turn the fan off again.
d. To turn the fan on, you have to turn the fan knob, and to turn it off, you have to press the "fan off" button; you can't turn the fan on by hitting the button nor can you turn it off by turning the knob.
I know it shouldn't, but it drives me crazy if I think about it too much; its as though it was designed by committee. I understand they're trying to achieve an automatic climate control system, but I personally like to control it manually rather than activate the auto feature and have the fan go full blast in my face when I start the car on a warm day.
I saw that little vent, and thought that might be where the sensor is located! Maybe my service writer is just ignorant on this subject, but he didn't want to look dumb or something...there is a little grille in the security panel on mine, he said it was behind there.
And I do not own this HL, it is a company vehicle that I drive in the week. Since I am pretty much the only one that drives it, I get to take it for service when that time rolls around...it is a 2001.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Since the Highlander is based on the Lexus RX 300 and the 2004 RX 330 will be available for sale in 4-6 months, does anyone know when the next re-do/iteration of the Highlander will be available for sale---2004?---2005? Any word on what changes will be made? Any spy pix? I was told by my local Lexus dealer last week that the 2004 RX 330 will be getting a larger engine output(from 3.0L to 3.3L), 10-20% larger body/chasis, a new rear-end treatment, head/side-curtain air bags, steering wheel stereo/HVAC controls, possibly memory seat for the driver, separate HVAC controls for both front row passenger/driver, and I hope they get rid of the teeny-tiny arm rests for both front passengers and use the design of a center arm rest like that of the new Honda Pilot, or Nissan Murano. The new center arm-rest on the new 4-Runner is a vast improvement over the current Highlander/RX 300/Sequoia etc, but for short drivers the armrest on the 2003 4-runner does not come far enough forward, like the Pilot or Murano. Also, it would be nice to see adjustable peddles(as in the Murano & Explorer)with memory seat for the driver, stereo c/d and HVAC controls on the steering wheel. I do tend to run on. Looking forward to your reply. Aubrey4x4
Has anyone heard a loud clunk come from the front suspension when going over a large speed bump (at 15 mph). I was informed that as the nose of the car is pushed up and the front wheels rebound downwards - the noise is the sound of the front struts extending to their maximum travel and make a loud "clunk".
I suspect it will probably be a few years before they re-design the HL as design iterations typically are 5 years or so apart. I sort of regard the new RX330 as an iteration of the Highlander since the design history of the HL/RX is:
1. The RX300 was designed.
2. The HL was designed based on the RX300 after stretching the wheelbase 4".
3. The RX330 was designed based on the HL (and thus with the longer wheelbase accounting for its larger size when compared with the RX300).
There is an RX330 edmunds.com discussion; see post Lexus RX330 Dec 05, 2002 in this discussion. RX330's interior looks like a high-class version of Highlander's.
I think it would be cool if they came out with a sport edition of the Highlander; something that exhibited more character and pizzazz, perhaps by two-toneing it and/or enhancing the grill design.
What are you doing "going over a large speed bump (at 15 mph)"!!!!!! I can't imagine anyone making their vehicle go over ANY speed bump over just a crawling speed. That's like driving your vehicle over a curb at those speeds. I'm surprised that you haven't messed up the alignment along with possibly tearing some treads in the radial tires at those speeds over a speed bump. The noise you're hearing has a couple of possibilities. One would be the wheels being forced to their stops as they get compressed. Another would be the bottom of your highlander hitting the speedbump at those speeds. The third may be the wheels extending to their stops as you catch air from hitting the speed bump so fast. Another may be the wheels contacting the ground again after catching air.
The best bet would be to take it easy and you won't have to worry about any noises.
The speed bump is more like a small hill and can be driven over at 15 mph without any problem in my CRV. The HL also makes the same noise when cresting over a parking garage ramp. When driving from a flat surface to go down the ramp. the suspension still clunks (it is most definitely the struts extendind to their maximum length. Seems like Toyota could have used a quieter limit stop.
I noticed the same clunking. At first I thought it was a problem in the right-front wheel/suspension until I heard it from the other side. I accept it as a small nitpik similar to the lists others have posted. Like them, I still love our HL and recommend it to anyone that wants a smooth, quiet, well-mannered SUV. GregB PS. Thanks mikey00 for the tech info.
Do I read you right? You don't mean "bottoming out", but the opposite - fully extended - as when the front end gets light over a hump in the road?
Weird! Mine don't do dat.
Seriously, I think someone should take a look at your struts. There should be enough damping to keep the springs from slamming the shock into an uplock that quickly.
Have you looked at the bolts at the strut bearings under the hood? Battery clamped down good? Can you make it happen by bouncing the car at the bumper?
I'd almost bet that it's something else that's loose, but I don't know what else to suggest. I have driven over all road conditions (& speed bumps), and have absolutely no suspension noise. Hope you find it. Glen
Thanks for the concern. My HL ltd V6 is 3 days old. I went to the dealer and drove another one from their lot - exact same thing happened. Therefore its not my vehicle - but seems to be common to all. Don't get me wrong - 95% of the time - they won't extend to their maximum. Only if I hit the speed bump at a certain speed. If I go really fast - the body stays level and the wheel does all the work (no noise). If I go at the critical speed where the body (front end) is pushed up, as the wheel crests the bump - it is pushed down really hard by the spring and causes the shock to extend to maximum. If I go really slow - ther is no noise. I also managed to recreate the noise while driving up a multi-level parking lot. As I crested the ramp - "thunk" the wheel extended to maximum.
It looks like others may have experienced similar problems. My 2002 4wd Highlander performed miserably under light snowy conditions. Is it the stock Bridgestone tire? Driving at slow speeds and modest grades was a nerve racking expereince. Any suggestions for replacement tires?
Yep, the Duelers are scary in the snow. My wife's camry with 4 Kumho I'zens (dedicated winter tires), puts my HL to shame in the slippery stuff.
I'm talking more about control and confidence, than the ability to just get going. The (AWD)HL gets going ok.
I recently pulled the trigger on a set of 4 Michelin Arctic Alpins mounted on take-off HL steel wheels from tire rack. When I get them, and I get a chance to check 'em out in the ice & snow, I will post my findings here.
That's if I don't manage to stuff it in the sleet & freezing rain we're now getting here in CT (even more predicted for the weekend).
I was sitting on a fence with this, trying to decide on dedicated winter tires vs. "the perfect tire", such as a set of Cross-Terrains. But the Duelers are actually pretty good on dry roads, and I've had no issues in the (non-freezing)rain. So in the spring (or before), I will take the Alpins off and stick the Duelers back on, with their nice, pretty alloy rims. Glen
For example, some of these recent postings pertain to problems and solutions and should be in that category. It saves time if the site is organized as it was set up. Your cooperation is appreciated.
A bit of off-topic drift is normal and tolerated. We have ~13 active Highlander related discussions today and more in the archives, so it's confusing sometimes for people to know where best to post.
For anyone looking for the "problems" discussion, here's the link:
Imagine a Thule/ Saris/ etc. add-on bike/ski/board rack that sticks up 6 inches, with all sorts of things to catch the moving parts of the washer. That's where the problem lies. The rags or brushes will skate right over your smooth, rounded rack. (Did that sound dirty...?)
They use so much d*mn salt here in Milwaukee, I also have mine in at least once a week, with no problems at all.
The mirror rattle I referred to earlier - I thought it was the magnetic housing on the mount - well it was actually the mirror. It wasn't installed properly at the port. The securing screw wasn't even tight - the mount was rattling on the dove-tail base. I mounted it securely and tightened the "torks" screw. So far - no more rattles.
The front suspension noise - which happens when the front struts extend to maximum when the front end gets light. I drove another HL from the dealership and the same noise occurred.
I found if I take the bump fast enough - the front body never lifts up - only the wheels move up and down. The noise does not occur. I have to take the speed bump at 35-40 mph and all is well. 5 mph is OK but 10-25 mph causes the loud "thunk" sound.
My first gas fill up at 250 miles averaged 17.8mpg, the second fill up (322 miles) averaged 19.4 but the display read 19.9 mpg (ref: AWD V6 Ltd, mostly commute and a stretch of highway at 85-90 mph).
All I can say - I love the HL. At 85 mph on the freeway - its one of the quietest cars I have been in. The power is good (Still breaking it in - so I am being light footed). The handling is also great - cornering - there is hardly any body roll. Tires are great (Bridgestone HT's).
The only real disappointment is the front strut noise - which should not happen on an SUV of this quality. My CRV never made any noises on the same commute route I have been driving for 8 years.
After putting up with the inferior quality of the OEM Integrity's for two years it was finally time to replace the tires on my HL. I finally opted for the Crossterrains, and so far I'm very pleased, the seem to handle well in the rain and are very quiet and stable on dry pavement, I plan on taking them to the snow, up north, during the holidays and see how they handle then.
The Crossterrains are a bit pricey, but I have always been a firm believer of "you get what you pay for"
Please remember that the Crossterrains are considered a premium tire amongst all the other tires. Happy holiday's driving to everyone and thanks for all of your inputs to the HL TownHall
Comments
4WD means nothing without traction. Hopefully, everyone goes through safely this winter.
(P.S.: The stock Bridgestones are doing just fine out here.)
That is correct. It is an excellent way of monitoring tire pressure. That's why GM calls it a "Tire pressure monitoring system". I had a slow leak 3 different times and the system saved me each time.
Both get pretty decent reviews on the tire rack site, with the AT supposedly better in the snow.
Also, how do you rate the tires all-around (ride, handling, noise, etc.)?
Thanks...
Their use is not proven to be safer - and I will wear out my alternator sooner, use more gas, and burn up more bulbs?
http://www.lightsout.org/index.html
Prevent me from being in an accident: not likely (but possible). Prevent 'grampa' from entering the roadway in front of me and my spending the next 5 minutes doing 20 in a 40 zone: worth a few extra bulbs over the years.
That's why I've always said that ABS should be "coupled" to VSC so that it doesn't activate unless directional control is "threatened".
I rewired mine so the fog lamps come on at full voltage for "DRL". Also allows me to have the fogs on without the interference of the low beams.
Please advise. Thanks!
Are the needed on a sunny summer day? Highly doubtful, but, "Is it dark enough to use headlights?" is a dangerous judgement question. At 6:30 am, a driver may think they don't need them. But, if you're coming the other way, their silver car is against a snow covered background on a salt covered road... throw in a little fog...
I have my regular lights come on as soon as I turn the car on. I may be burning through my light bulbs a wee bit faster, and may use a drop more fuel, but I can live with that.
But.
Full brightness high beams would be offensive to many so reduced brightness is the order of the day.
I know my fogs aren't likely to be visible at the great distance of low voltage high beams but it was a good compromise.
There is a little more road noise than the stock Bridgestones, but you get used to it quickly.
Ride and handling are excellent.
I am very pleased - its great.
I only have two minor issues or questions.
1) after backing out of a parking space, then moving forward, after a few seconds I can hear a buzzer / whirring noise from the engine compartment. It only lasts 1/2 a second. Any konw what this is?
2) Have a slight buzzing rattle coming from the center of the dash. Only does it on rutted roads or crossing freeway lanes with those dividing bumps. Anyone have a similiar issue
Thanks
alimin
The sensor is a little microphone that is tuned to detect the particular pitch of the glass breaking, and if it does detect that, it will set off the alarm, immobilizing the vehicle and sounding the audible alarm.
You can test it by setting the alarm and then tapping the window glass with your car key. Be prepared with the remote for when the alarm goes off - the alarm is VERY LOUD!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I was hitting the glass so hard - I thought my window would break. It never went off.
I found out the real test is to roll the window down and clap your hands in the window.
Sorry, Nimron99, thought you already owned a HL and noticed the GBS wasn't located by the alarm status LED as noted in the alarm manual. BTW, I've never been able to make my alarm go off by tapping on the window, either. Just another reason why I perfer a motion sensor.
http://rav4world.com/brochure/alarms/rs3200plus/page2_3.jpg
http://www.rav4world.com/brochure/alarms/rs3200plus/rs3200plus.html
Nitpicking would be the lack of individual reading lights for driver and passenger, no timed auto off feature for the headlights or reading lights, the short timer on the ignition key light, the way the headrest don't lock in the upward direction, 60 MPH not being at 12 O'clock on the speedometer, the way the rear seatbelts flap around in the wind if not buckled, the lame cup holders (I have a 2001), the mediocre AC, the noisy fuel injectors when it's cold outside, and last but not least, the omission of a flip up rear window (even Steve's minivan has this feature.) :-)
On the positive side when it comes to the little things, I do find the dotted pattern on the windshield above the rearview mirror to be a clever feature that's very effective at blocking sun glare.
I just call em' as I see em'.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Its the auto-dimming mirror. There is a plastic cover over where it mounts to the window (presume its the compass). This is whats buzzing. Great - everything on my car is now perfect.
I tested the glass breakage sensor by clapping my hands inside the vehicle with the alarm on.
The only thing I can't figure out is the noise from the engine compartment which happens about 5 seconds after driving forward. It sounds like a the noise from a washer fluid pump motor. It only lasts about 1/2 second. Anyone know what this could be for - some kind of relay?
It might sound silly, but once you have one of these (and they seem quite accurate), you find yourself looking for one in every other car you get in to.
I might add - I have an '02 non-limited...
no timed auto off feature for the headlights or reading lights - the headlights as far as I know are auto-off
the short timer on the ignition key light - at least they have one, unlike most other cars on the road today, but I'll give you 1/2 a point for that one *hehe*
the way the headrest don't lock in the upward direction - convenience vs. safety. going down without locking would be unsafe for whiplash, but being able to adjust them upwards without pushing the button is convenient
60 MPH not being at 12 O'clock on the speedometer - what does that have to do with anything? Alot of highways still are 55mph and alot more are 65mph speed limits.
the way the rear seatbelts flap around in the wind if not buckled - there's a clip next to the side seat cushion.
the lame cup holders (I have a 2001) - made to accomodate mugs (I still don't get the whole cup-holder wars going on in cars)
the mediocre AC - this is an SUV (or tall wagon depending on who you talk to) and has ALOT more space to heat or cool. However, in most Toyota's, including the HL, I've found the A/C will freeze you out and the heat will toast you on the highest settings.
the noisy fuel injectors when it's cold outside - haven't noticed this one.
and last but not least, the omission of a flip up rear window - Toyota doesn't do this on almost any of their vehicles for a couple of reasons. First, for the rattles they almost always cause and secondly, when they're flipped up, they have a knack for catching rocks that have kicked up over the vehicle and shatter. I do wish they used the power rear window design from the 4Runner and Sequoia there though.
I haven't found any vehicle out in the market yet that I think is ABSOLUTELY perfect, but that's part of shopping around, finding one that the benefits outweigh the drawbacks. Be well.
Ken
If its a loud click you're hearing from the engine compartment when you first start driving then this is the self-test of the ABS system; the owner's manual mentions this.
megawattblues:
Wasn't sure if you were aware of it but Limited models have an outside temperature indicator.
My nitpick:
On Limited models, the screwy user-interface on the climate control system (at least on the 2001; maybe they've improved it on subsequent model years):
a. If you hit the AC button the AC will not come on unless if the fan is already on.
b. If the AC is on when the fan is turned off, it is re-activated the next time the fan is turned on.
c. If the fan isn't on you can't change the temperature setting even though it is affecting the temperature of the air entering the vehicle. You have to turn the fan on, adjust the temp, then turn the fan off again.
d. To turn the fan on, you have to turn the fan knob, and to turn it off, you have to press the "fan off" button; you can't turn the fan on by hitting the button nor can you turn it off by turning the knob.
I know it shouldn't, but it drives me crazy if I think about it too much; its as though it was designed by committee. I understand they're trying to achieve an automatic climate control system, but I personally like to control it manually rather than activate the auto feature and have the fan go full blast in my face when I start the car on a warm day.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
What year is yours? - maybe they have changed it on the newer models (and yours is a 2001?)
And I do not own this HL, it is a company vehicle that I drive in the week. Since I am pretty much the only one that drives it, I get to take it for service when that time rolls around...it is a 2001.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Sounds pretty horrible.
1. The RX300 was designed.
2. The HL was designed based on the RX300 after stretching the wheelbase 4".
3. The RX330 was designed based on the HL (and thus with the longer wheelbase accounting for its larger size when compared with the RX300).
There is an RX330 edmunds.com discussion; see post Lexus RX330 Dec 05, 2002 in this discussion. RX330's interior looks like a high-class version of Highlander's.
I think it would be cool if they came out with a sport edition of the Highlander; something that exhibited more character and pizzazz, perhaps by two-toneing it and/or enhancing the grill design.
What bolt are they referring too?
Anyone know what this is?
Thanks
Not being an audio-phile - I think the sound is great. Just wondering if it is made by Nakamichi?
The best bet would be to take it easy and you won't have to worry about any noises.
Ken
GregB
PS. Thanks mikey00 for the tech info.
Weird! Mine don't do dat.
Seriously, I think someone should take a look at your struts. There should be enough damping to keep the springs from slamming the shock into an uplock that quickly.
Have you looked at the bolts at the strut bearings under the hood? Battery clamped down good? Can you make it happen by bouncing the car at the bumper?
I'd almost bet that it's something else that's loose, but I don't know what else to suggest. I have driven over all road conditions (& speed bumps), and have absolutely no suspension noise. Hope you find it.
Glen
My HL ltd V6 is 3 days old. I went to the dealer and drove another one from their lot - exact same thing happened. Therefore its not my vehicle - but seems to be common to all. Don't get me wrong - 95% of the time - they won't extend to their maximum. Only if I hit the speed bump at a certain speed. If I go really fast - the body stays level and the wheel does all the work (no noise). If I go at the critical speed where the body (front end) is pushed up, as the wheel crests the bump - it is pushed down really hard by the spring and causes the shock to extend to maximum. If I go really slow - ther is no noise. I also managed to recreate the noise while driving up a multi-level parking lot. As I crested the ramp - "thunk" the wheel extended to maximum.
I'm talking more about control and confidence, than the ability to just get going. The (AWD)HL gets going ok.
I recently pulled the trigger on a set of 4 Michelin Arctic Alpins mounted on take-off HL steel wheels from tire rack. When I get them, and I get a chance to check 'em out in the ice & snow, I will post my findings here.
That's if I don't manage to stuff it in the sleet & freezing rain we're now getting here in CT (even more predicted for the weekend).
I was sitting on a fence with this, trying to decide on dedicated winter tires vs. "the perfect tire", such as a set of Cross-Terrains. But the Duelers are actually pretty good on dry roads, and I've had no issues in the (non-freezing)rain. So in the spring (or before), I will take the Alpins off and stick the Duelers back on, with their nice, pretty alloy rims.
Glen
For anyone looking for the "problems" discussion, here's the link:
Toyota Highlander Owners: Problems & Solutions
Steve, Host
They use so much d*mn salt here in Milwaukee, I also have mine in at least once a week, with no problems at all.
The mirror rattle I referred to earlier - I thought it was the magnetic housing on the mount - well it was actually the mirror. It wasn't installed properly at the port. The securing screw wasn't even tight - the mount was rattling on the dove-tail base. I mounted it securely and tightened the "torks" screw. So far - no more rattles.
The front suspension noise - which happens when the front struts extend to maximum when the front end gets light. I drove another HL from the dealership and the same noise occurred.
I found if I take the bump fast enough - the front body never lifts up - only the wheels move up and down. The noise does not occur. I have to take the speed bump at 35-40 mph and all is well. 5 mph is OK but 10-25 mph causes the loud "thunk" sound.
My first gas fill up at 250 miles averaged 17.8mpg, the second fill up (322 miles) averaged 19.4 but the display read 19.9 mpg (ref: AWD V6 Ltd, mostly commute and a stretch of highway at 85-90 mph).
All I can say - I love the HL. At 85 mph on the freeway - its one of the quietest cars I have been in. The power is good (Still breaking it in - so I am being light footed). The handling is also great - cornering - there is hardly any body roll. Tires are great (Bridgestone HT's).
The only real disappointment is the front strut noise - which should not happen on an SUV of this quality. My CRV never made any noises on the same commute route I have been driving for 8 years.
I finally opted for the Crossterrains, and so far I'm very pleased, the seem to handle well in the rain and are very quiet and stable on dry pavement, I plan on taking them to the snow, up north, during the holidays and see how they handle then.
The Crossterrains are a bit pricey, but I have always been a firm believer of "you get what you pay for"
Please remember that the Crossterrains are considered a premium tire amongst all the other tires.
Happy holiday's driving to everyone and thanks for all of your inputs to the HL TownHall