By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
GregB
This has happened to me twice no on my 2001 Highlander, although its possible that the first time was due to over-tightening lug nut (mechanics claimed this could not happen on the HL) the second time was due to towing a trailer, with trailer brakes, not riding the brakes....At this point I am of the opinion that the front rotors on the HL are thin and prone to warping. The first time service turned the rotors under warrantee but charged the second time...and I expect to be buying new rotors the next time it happens..
Thanks in advance.
But given that the HL has a 4 cylinder option it might be the more appropriate "first" platform.
2003 AWD Ltd V6, at about 80-85 mph, I got 17 - 18 mpg going up the grade to Nevada. On the return leg - at 85 mph, on the down grade it was about 19 - 20 mpg.
Around town and commute traffic I average about 18 mpg.
Anybody have similar mpg averages?
Paint: Some time back there were comments on this thread re Toyota's paint, and the fact that it is thin. I somewhat discounted the comments. However, with winter now past, I really cleaned my 2001 up, and was dismayed to find numerous scratches and abrasions in the paint along leading edges ... they all seem to be consistent with the slipstream (they are not, in my opinion, intentional scratches) Rather, they seem to be caused by sand and small stones imbeded in snow and slush that was splashed on the HL from passing vehicles.
I suppose the paint is thin, and it does seem to be easily scratched. I am wondering: Doesn't it have a clear cote over the color cote? I wonder if I should have a paint shop apply another clear cote layer while the paint still looks fairly good, and before it gets too scratched.?
I wonder why Toyota would use such a paint? Saves weight? Cost? Is it less prone to fade? I am just guessing, I have no idea, and would like to hear others opinions.
Happy HL'ing to all.
When I bought it I read a description on the Toyota Highlander Options page that described "front fore and aft adjusting head restraints." Mine only adjust for height.
Is it only the factory leather package that has the back-and-forth moveable head rests, mine is port-installed, or should all Limited's have this feature?
I was driving a 1988 Chevy P/U 2WD ext. cab, long bed. What a difference. I needed a vehicle that rode smoothly, had decent power, all weather capabilities, and seating for 5. I test drove the Honda Pilot as a comparison first.
After reading all the reviews (Consumer Reports, etc.) I figured my number one choice was the Pilot. I was wrong. I have no great use for a third row of seating, the Pilot seemed larger than I needed, felt like a rougher ride and the seats felt kind of odd (can't explain, seemed like the head rests were to far back or something. Don't get me wrong, the pilot is a very good vehicle. The major problem was that I could not get one for 2 months!! Plus the dealer was charging MSRP and no negotiations. I said "let's go to Toyota".
I'll start with the dealer Herb Chambers in Auburn Mass.
The salesman did not pull the high pressure pitch, but I haggled over the price for 4 hours. Good thing I did my homework at Edmunds for the prices. One thing that bugged me that I didn't notice when I test drove the vehicle was the mileage. I looked at the odometer and it said 0.1 miles. I thought " hmmm, brand spankin' new". Then when I signed the papers the listed reading was 300 miles. I realized that the little sneak pressed the trip odometer and rest (reads in LCD display in the same place. Oh well. The sticker price was $30,541. I had them put a trailer hitch on so I could pull a popup camper. Added about $300. Total $30,841. I negotiated a price of $27,800. I was also able to finance through Toyota for 1.9%, 3 years.
Have been driving the truck for a week now and have 500 miles on it. No opinion on traction in the snow - NO SNOW NOW!
PRO -
good power, good ride (it is still an SUV not a caddy) all weather, tow a trailer, seats 5, storage in back, no sqweaks rattles or noises, quiet cabin, decent stereo, split and reclining rear seats, plenty of room, not to large.
CON - (these are not major, just a pain in the neck)
#1 : Seating position - I am tall, 6'2" with long legs, 36". I find that when I push the seat back far enough to be comfortable and recline the seat back a little, I have a hard time reaching the steering wheel at the top or 10 - 2 position. My arms are straight out and get tired fast. If I try to move the seat in closer, my knees press against the door panel on the left and the center console on the right. I end up holding the wheel at the bottom - not too safe. TOYOTA, TAKE NOTE: A TELESCOPING WHEEL WOULD HELP!!!! The technology is availabe and for this price should be standard on this vehicle!! Also, the seat is too short. Not enough thigh support for taller people. I own 4 Toyota's and this is typical. You would think the Japanese would get a clue and realize not all Americans are 5 feet tall....
#2 :If you have the arm rest down, it can be a pain to access the seatbelt buckle because it is in the way.
#3 :I'm not to keen on the cup holder cover that sticks up when open. A design like the storage bin behind it with the double opening doors that disappear when open would be much better.
#4 :Have a slight vibration in the steering wheel at highway speed. I looked at the tires and noticed that three have a small balance weights and one front has a much larger weight. I will probably switch that tire with the spare to see if it is a wheel balance problem.
#5 :Same problem as everyone else, when you put a back window down, the noise is very bad.
#6 :More padding in the door arm rest please!
Just my experience with this vehicle so far.
I wouldn't worry about it personally as I have the tiltable headrests but never use this feature -- I've always left the headrests in the full upright position.
By the way the steering shakes when braking hard at highway speeds above 70-80Mph.
I will make an App. this week and see what happens.
Can you tell me why it is irresponsible and selfish?
I would assume you are one of those people who cruise arrogantly in the left lane at the posted speed limit, causing faster traffic to undertake you, which IS selfish and irresponsible
PS never had a ticket or accident - mostly because I drive at an appropriate speed for the conditions (traffic density, weather, visibility). And I consider myself an advanced driver (having taken the IAM Institute of advanced motoring course). I have been driving for 25 years.
Its tough driving at 80-85 and I am the slowest car (in the right hand lane) on the highway.
Years ago when cars first came out - they had a flag bearer walk in front of the car to "warn" people. Some even believed that going faster than 12 mph would cause massive bodily injuries.
Highlander, X5 or RX: irresponsible Speed kills.
Before MT speed limits 100MPH+ lots of miles.
Speed has its place(s).
The whole story goes on for thousands of words as I've been dealing with this for almost two years, but I thought I'd share the abridged version for anyone in a similar situation.
Steve, Host
My vote is to let vinod s3 walk on the shoulder and the rest of us drive like hell!! ;-)
Still zooming around San Anton eh?
Steve, Host
The Technician did not replace them, he instead shaved the surface and made them flat again.
I hope this is a permanent fix and not temporary one.
Any comments?....
my guess is that he mesured the thickness of the rotors and based on that decided against replacement.
Hope this helps someone else in the future
Beat Your Ticket
Steve, Host
The vibration comes and goes while you are driving. It's not constantly on. It doesn't specifically relate to engine load, road incline, road condition, curve in road, anything.
The problem first appears as the steering wheel vibrates left and right. It's starting to do that for me again at around 72 mph. As it gets worse, there is a vibration in the pedals and floorboard. At the worst, the CD jewel boxes would rattle and the back seat shoulder belts were visibly shaking.
My theory (and that of one dealer's service manager) is that the alloy rim masks the vibration better than does the steel rim. However, as the problem gets worse, no wheel will mask it forever.
I've heard of another local 2001 with the same problem. It is also a V6 AWD with steel wheels, and the owner noticed it beginning at 15,000 miles.
Toyota has spent a lot of money attempting to fix my vehicle, so I think they would fix it if they knew what to do.
I'm trying to decide if I want to go through another round of trying to fix it, or go back to arbitration and hope the arbitrator agrees it's time for Toyota to buy it back.
My vehicle has the extended 8-year 100,000-mile drivetrain warranty due to the oil sludge problem, but it's getting to be a major hassle.
The reason that I ask is that my 2001 Highlander (which came through Jacksonville, FL) did not come with this package and I have noticed that the "factory" undercoating missed a lot of places. The worst area was the rear fender lip. Has anybody else noticed this?
I have since gone back and added undercoating to these areas that were previously missed. I used the Dupli-Color rubberized professional version. I found this at Autozone but should be available elsewhere.
Yep. Hope all's well in your neighborhood.
Regarding the tickets, I get one that's usually 10-15 over about every 3 years. It's amazing. Like friggin' clockwork. I used to go to traffic school to get it dismissed. Between taking up a whole Saturday and the poor excuse for humor in the comedy schools, it was too much to sacrifice! The last time I needed to get one dismissed (OMG! Almost 3 years ago!), I found an online site : http://www.defensivedriving.com/ddo/index.html
I pay the $40 + fine and get it over with. It's simply not worth my time to go downtown to attempt to beat it. Bottom line, if I'm caught and I did it, I'll pay up without argument.
I heard third hand about the owner of the other 2001 Highlander with the same problem. He requested replacement, and marked his existing axle. Got it back with the same markings, confronted the service mgr. who confronted the mechanic, who said he didn't have the right tool. (The same mechanic "worked" on mine.)
Of course, I'm guessing Toyota corporate was charged with replacing the entire axle, since that is what was indicated on my warranty invoice.
So now I have to go back to the dealer and try to convince them to replace it correctly . . . again . . . or go back to arbitration.
For my price (under 25K) I'm looking at the Toyota Highlander base 2WD, Hyundai Santa Fe LX AWD, and the Subaru Forester XS AWD. I live in the Washington DC area (this past winter was heavy for us). I wanted to know if anyone has a HL 2WD in this area and how did it far during the winter? Has anyone else compare these models, and what did you choose?
Thanks
Hang in there. The HL's are a great car and it is unfortunate that your ownership experience has been tainted with this issue for so long. Please keep us posted and good luck.
(Some of the less popular (and utterly untrue) answers to this question are:
1. Toyota assumes that most owners are either so euphoric over their purchase that they never get around to counting their speakers until long after the warranty expires, or those that do notice it however refrain from broaching the question of the Toyota Service Manager out of fear that they will be labeled "technologically challenged."
2. There is a typo on the sticker, and Toyota still hasn't got around to correcting it.
3. On non-limited models, the remaining two speakers are located on the outside of the vehicle, in the front bumper behind those louvered insets.)
ROFLMAO!!!
They warped again at 30K and I took it in around 32K and they turned the front and rear rotors again at no charge. I'm worried that this may become a 10-15K experience and it could be costly after the warranty expires.
My last vehicle was a Nissan PU that I drove to 130K and never even had the rotors turned. Only went through 2 sets of pads.
Some vehicles seem to be rotor eaters and others never have any problems unless you let the pads wear too far.