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Below is a link to the all new Camry photo:
http://www.carsontoyota.com/upload/camry01.jpg
http://www.carsontoyota.com/upload/camry2002r.jpg
and I have a few more other photos (artist's renderings) as well.
Dianne
-Steve
My big question is replacement tires. Mine came with Bridgestone H/T's which will not cut it in our snowy winters in Montana. Tire dealers are worse than car dealers for good info. It appears that the best choices are the Michelin LTX M&S or the new Michelin Cross Terrain. The Goodrich tire is rated well but what experiences have others gone thru in replacing OEM tires? Thanks.
-Steve
(Sorry, can't help with the car seat question.)
Wally
In general, AWD SUVs with unibody construction and independent suspension tend to have lower roll over incidents than other SUVs. It still isn't a sports car and shouldn't be driven like one. It does have a lower center of gravity and is wider than a lot of other SUVs. The AWD system will help maintain control in a corner and the option VSC will prevent understeer (the leading cause of roll overs).
The biggest change is the reduction of the body lean in corners (it's still not a BMW, but it's not a boat either). Next comes the improved braking...it just feels better than it did with the Bridgestone tires. They're quiet, smooth, comfortable, and very responsive.
I'm very happy with my investment, but all isn't perfect. I now notice that the new tires are picking up more rocks than the old tires did. It's probably due to the more aggressive tread pattern. I have undercoat and rustproof, but prefer not to have rocks hitting the wheel wells. I'm keeping an eye on this and slow down when loose gravel is evident.
There are some Cross Terrain posts on the Lexus RX300 board. They have many more miles and seem to really like the tires. All in all, I think the improved cornering justifies the expense. The improvement is remarkable!!!
Vehicle Weight - Vehicle Height x Velocity(2)+ Operator Skill - Surface Conditions x Operator Stupidity(2) = ROLLOVER
With all candor, the information you have seen regarding vehicle rollover is not based on scientific evidence or actual tests. It is a conclusion reached by comparing vehicle specifications [height/weight/wheelbase/track] through a computer analysis.
For a clear perspective on this subject, check out what the real experts at Car & Driver have to say in their test of a Ford Explorer at:
http://www.caranddriver.com/xp/Caranddriver/columns/2001/January/200101 steeringcolumn.xml
You will be comforted when you discover that a '94 Explorer with 120,000 miles can blow a rear tire at 70mph with hardly a wiggle in the steering wheel! The testing was also shown on Car & Driver TV, and it was uneventful but dramatic. As with most vehicles, your new HL is extremely stable and only adversely affected by the loose nut behind the wheel. Drive safely!
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Due to the highly technical procedure for the install of Highlander
consoles, this genuine Toyota part is only available as a Port
Installed Option at this time - PIO # CA10. Please review your
current and future allocations to ensure that you have added CA10 to
your Highlanders. You will not be able to acquire this console for
your customer(s) after the fact.
Please let me know if there is any other options that SET has that may be desirable and I am happy to provide you with any info you may need. It is rare when the part is only available as a PIO and can not be dealer installed
They found a dealer in Chicago willing to sell the car at my price. I now have a Millenium Silver with AG, CF, DR, CQ, GN, SK, PE, WL, V5, andDL. THe only other option I am considering is the HP. The car drives and handles great. I even sold my 96 RAV4.
The MSRP was $29555 and I paid $28267 plus $50 to Priceline.
This is a lot better than what I could have done in St. Louis if they had these cars.
I am very happy with the entire process. I had been looking since early February.
1. Their test did not "blow" the tire, just deflated it rapidly. There's a world of difference.
2. In the hundreds of Explorer/Firestone accidents, often the tread separated and wrapped around the axle. This situation did not develop in the C&D tests because there was no separation.
3. The C&D tests used an experienced driver that knew what was coming. Unlikely many if any real world drivers could match his reactions or knowledge.
I applaud C&D (to which I subscribe) for trying these tests but I wish they had done a few by really blowing the Firestones -- but even then it would not match the real world with tread separations, amateur drivers, etc.
We really like it, and feel very secure with having the ISOFIX latches.
I'd still love my HL, even if it only did 10 mpg!
I can only compare what you have said to my experience, but I think you shoud do better ..... but there are so many factors. Driving habits being the greatest. Fast starts, warming up the engine on cold mornings, stopped in traffic all will significantly lower the mileage. I have consistently achieved 22-24 mpg (V6, 4WD, Unlimited) but I live in a small village with virtually no "town" driving. Come summer, it should do 2-3 mpg better when the Government no longer requires the winter blended fuel.
Good Luck.
I would recommend taking it in to get checked. I 've read almost all of the posts on this site and they have been pretty consistent at the estimated 18-22 mpg or higher for city/highway. I towed my tent trailer from Salt Lake City to Los Angeles and ranged from 17 to 21.
If you didn't reset the avg mpg function after you took delivery of the vehicle, it's possible the read out is wrong. I would check the mileage the old fashioned way. Also, I would reset the avg mpg function next time you fill up.
H.I.R.
If you don't see an improvement.. I'd take it back and have it looked at. Probabally something very minor.. Keep us updated on how you are making out.
I still have not recieved my "Manik" step bars, hopefully next week...they'll be in..
Still waiting for word back from toysport.com. Re: Kluger V console parts availability etc..
Have a great weekend everyone..
Hobie
ALSO, does anyone know why they put car tires on the HL versus SUV/LT tires (Cliffy or Dianne?). I have Goodyear Integrity 225/70/16. Perhaps since its based on the Camry platform? I would like great traction (for our rainy season), low noise and great braking/performance. I wanted to trade up to Michelins (Cross Terrain SUV)and was thinking of getting them a bit wider, also. Does anyone know about correct fitment as far as a larger rim (18x7, 18x8). I noticed that to add larger rims to the RX300 (TRD), you need spacers for the rear wheels. Any info is appreciated.
Now I'm wondering about the wind noise. Mine will have the wind deflector with the power moonroof. Has anyone experienced the whistling noise with the wind deflector installed?
Maybe with gusty winds I'll hear it. By the way, my crossbars are at the back of the rack about a foot apart.
Don't know about the HL (we haven't rec'd. ours yet), but I suspect it's probably very similar to our Avalon regarding fuel octane requirements. Our Avalon ('97) only needs 87 octane and does fine with that (no ping, etc). However, if I put high octane (premium) in it, I feel a definite improvement in engine performance (acceleration). It just seems "peppier". Haven't noticed any change in mileage. Just my opinion....
Only an opinion: The engine was designed to run on 87 octane, and the use of anything higher is not necessary. "High test" in my area is .20 more per gallon than 87.
Years ago an engine with high compression ration required "high octane." I recall using 100 octane in the 60's. Remember Ethyl additives that raised octane? Todays engine can burn 87 because of the computer controlled systems that monitor many engine functions and make all sorts of corrections/alterations to spark advance, fuel/air ratios and more. Something must give, however, and I would expect a small compromise in perormance. But I am more than satisfied with the performance of my HL, and the extra .20/gal is certainly not worth the added cost. But to each his own, to you, it may be worth the added cost.
Happy motoring.
decided on which model to purchase (the V6 or the 4-cylinder). I was impressed with
the 4-cylinder's mileage at 22/27, but does it have enough power to carry 3-4 passengers.
The horse power on the 4 cylinder is 155 and V6 is 205. Have people here tested both
models? If you have, can you describe your experience?
thanks
wanna highlander
I don't know if he is right or not, but a Central Florida mechanic/radio show host swears that you should use the highest octane availible whether the manufacturer recomends it or not. For him it is not a pinging or performance issue, but a cleanliness issue. He says that lower octane fuel evaporates faster and leaves (carbon?) residue to build up on your valves and injectors. He says that the higher octane evaporates slower thus getting more of the fuel/ingrediants to the cylinders where it is burnt up.
I would be interested in hearing from any chemistry majors out there that could corroborate this view. Assuming it is true then I think it is wise to spend the extra 20 cents a gallon for a cleaner engine.
You raise an interesting question that I am ertainly not qualified to answer. Just "thinking with my fingers" I suppose there are other factors to consider. Like, if the vehicle will be traded in 3-5 years, a "cleaner" engine may not be as big a factor as one kept for 10+ years. I do not like to admit it, but I have a 92 Acura that called for premium fuel. Becuase of that .20/gal, we have used 87 octane fuel for years. I cannot see any negative impact. The engine is quiet, responsive, and delivers 24-25 mpg.
I wonder how much evaporation there is from a modern engine? I thought it was a closed system? Evaporation would have a negative environmental impact would it not?
I hope someone more knowledgable will answer.
Happy motoring.
Anyone else heard of this?
Anyone have any experience buying out of state and having the vehicle shipped as opposed to driving in back? I live in Texas and want a minimally equipped HL. Am considering purchasing one from Dianne at Carson. Just wondering what it would cost to ship from Carson, CA to Dallas, Texas. Anyone have an idea??
Thanks
You may want to ask this question in the Maintenance & Repair message board, but it's not true that any engine can run consistently on 87 octane gasoline. If the manufacturer designs an engine for at least 91 octane, using lower octane fuel for extended periods of time will prematurely wear out the engine. It is not good for the computer to keep retarding ignition to compensate for the lower octane level. In fact, this is the reason why you get lower fuel economy if you use lower octane fuel for an engine that is designed for the premium stuff. Consult your owner's manual for detailed information.
Perhaps Cliffy or Dianne can shed more light on this? What does the owner's manual say?
Good luck,
Drew
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
Here's an article titled "The Low-Down on High Octane Gasoline" that might help give you another insight about this issue. This is on a popular radio personality's site (Dr. Bill Wattenburg). He's been trying to educate people about the octane issue for years on his SF bay area radio talkshow. Though I'm certainly no Wattenburg disciple, I find his info on this subject to be worth reading about.
Here's the link for the article:
http://www.kgoam810.com/viewentry.asp?ID=56319&PT=personalities
Di
We were just given an advance warning of the pricing increase for 5/1/01 on Sequoia, Tacoma, Rav4, and Landcruiser. There were no mentions of Highlander pricing increase in that memo.
Di
(Thanks!!)
Dianne
The manual states that the minimum octane rating is 87. It goes on to state that for "improved performance" the use of a premium unleaded with an octane rating of 91 or higher is recommended. I assume that this means it was designed to run with the higher grade but will not be damaged by lower grade fuel. This discussion comes up over month or so on various topics. In the Solara topic a few months ago, two different people claimed much improved fuel economy with the premium. We're not talking about 1 or 2 MPG but a 15% improvement. I can't confirm this but you may want to check mileage both ways.
Anyone still having questions about the correct octane ... read post #1889 and look at the link ....... it seems to be the best authority thus far.
Keep motoring and enjoying.
I am Six foot three inches tall and am wondering if someone with my height can comfortably fit into this car (I tried to test drive a Ford Escape for instance any my legs couldn't fit under the steering wheel). Any comments and/or sharing of experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Hi Greg,
My lovely Bluestone V6 FWD HL was delivered here in Colorado on Saturday. Took about a week from the time Dianne received my payment via a FedEx pack she had sent me. The car arrived very dirty (Dianne assures me it left CA spotless and photos she sent via the Internet sure looked a lot better!) but giving the car a thorough bath bonded us.
Today was my first day driving about town - up to 37 miles already and I am thrilled. Feels great. Those of you who have been following the forum for awhile know I had a difficult time locating a FWD with VD and BE here in Colorado. Lots of "we can order what you want but it will take four months... so why not take what's on the lot".
The features I thought I could do without (the moonroof and heated seats) are actually becoming my favorites. Today was a chilly day in CO and going about town with a warm bum helped keep my spirits up. (Still not used to these cold brown springs - I'm a Southeast transplant). Of course a brand new beautiful car helped a lot also!
Could someone review the burning smell? I remember reading something about it and can't find the posting. Also would be interested in more info on the Homelink feature or is it in the manual? Haven't got through the whole thing yet.
Thanks.
I test drove the 4 but bought the V6. My old car was a four cylinder and I wanted more power, driving the Tundra (V8) kinda does that to you. Anyways, I took the 4 cyl up a major hill on the freeway here (H-2, no interstates in Hawaii, so it's designated with an H, not an I) and it didn't have enough power for me, but I think you have to test it for yourself to decide what works for you.
I am completely satisfied with the V6. It is so quiet.
Congratulations! Homelink info is well explained in the manual, I took a week before getting around to setting mine. Very easy, I needed to do the extra steps to set for a "rolling code" type opener. It does take a positive press on the button before it opens, I used to just tap the Genie remote, but now I press until the door actually moves, it does have better range than the Genie.
Regarding the burning smell, I noticed it too, was gone within a couple of days.
I rember some postings regarding the glass breakage sensor, wanted to look at the setting on mine and have not found it. Could some one post if it is on the drivers side or the pax side and maybe the color or an identifying feature? Been looking under the dash and no luck yet.
The other question is in regards to the Owner's manual, I have the regular book plus an Owner's manual supplement with warranty and scheduled maintenance.
My question is, does any one have the Highlander listed as a vehicle in the scheduled maintenance section? Page 20 and 28 divide the Toyota vehicles into differing schedules and the Highlander is not listed.
As a reference, the back cover has this info, Printed in Japan 0006 No 460-US-9E.
Thanks
I posted some White Limited photos over at the Yahoo Highlander Club. Thanks to rubytuesday for mentioning their postings over there.
What is the link to this club? The search program on Yahoo is down.