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Some 4cyls. will, after approx. 100,000 miles, show some blue smoke at start-up. This valve seal problem does not affect the motor's performance. And unless it burns oil, it is nothing to be concerned about. Good Luck with whatever vehicle you decide buy. Peter.
The road had been salted, and I was driving about 60mph. The truck lost control totally when I made a lane change. It run off the road and turned 180 degree and skid for another 100 feet. Luckly there is no damage at all .
Since all the fwd cars before me make the same lane change (we were passing a trialer) didn't skid. My sense is that those fwd drive cars with lower center of gavity might be a safer choice than a 4wd SUV in bad weather.
Your HL only routes torque to the rear axle if the front wheels lose traction for a fairly brief but sustained period, and even then there are arguments about how much or how little torque the rear wheels can get.
But that doesn't sound like the case here.
Tell me you didn't have the cruise control engaged ?? !!
Your explanation about 4wd makes sense. And the higher center of gavity, larger dimension factors of SUV might "amplify" any skid.
The bottom line is that driving a SUV on highway in bad weather might be more dangerous than driving a fwd car.
4WD and AWD vehicles still need to be driven somewhat slower in bad weather. And, of course, nothing works well on ice covered roads.
It's just good to know that you, nor anyone else, was hurt when you slid.
As noted earlier, I think the head gasket problem was with the 4Runner.
if anyone else has comemnts on shift quality or on being able to feel the engine running at idle in the steering wheel, let us know. thanks.
You've done a really good job of discovering and pointing out the "fly in the ointment" with FWD, AWD and 4WD.
FWD, AWD and 4WD all share a common flaw, they can be easily over-driven in low traction conditions without "notice" to the operator that s/he is operating beyond the "edge" for a vehicle that uses the same set of roadbed contact patches for both "driving" and steering.
Let's say that you were driving on a slippery roadbed wherein your total front tires' traction "quotient" was being completely or mostly allocated to forward "drive". When you turned the "driven" wheels you increased the level of traction you needed becuase you have now added lateral "stress" to the equation.
I'd even bet that the instant you felt any "yaw" you instantly, instinctively, lifted your foot from the throttle. While that action would be totally instinctive for almost all of us, it is absolutely the WRONG thing to do in this circumstance, a FWD or an AWD that is predominantly FWD as is your HL.
The owners manual for my 2001 AWD RX300 (w/VSC/TRAC) the transmission ECU will automatically shift the transmission into the highest gear to eliminate as much engine "braking" as possible in the instance, "coasting". But even if your HL has that feature I doubt if it would have been quick enough in so doing to have prevented your spin-out, and at 60MPH you were likely already in the highest gear.
In a RWD vehicle with the driven wheels' traction quotient all, or mostly used up in this same way, you still have almost all of the front, steering wheels' tarction quotient to rely on if you suddenly need steerage.
And it was likely the weight of your vehicle, and the additional lateral stress, over the other lighter vehicles that led to your spin out and not them.
His exact phrase was "Well, this is a limited production model, and the way you have that optioned up, they're hard to find." I'm in Wisconsin, and looking at a Limited AWD.
Does anyone happen to know how the production is split among the 6 lines: base/ SR5/ Limited, 2WD/AWD. We haven't discussed hard numbers yet, but my third visit will be to put in an offer, closer to invoice than MSRP, and I'd love to tell him "Well, 38% of all HLs are configured like this, so if you can't find one....".
TIA
remote entry, aluminum wheels was
about 28K. A big difference (23%) over 22.7K.
The highlander is defintaley bigger looking from the outside and a little more plush in my opinion, but interior volume is very comparable, especially the back seat where the CRV has much more leg room.
Head room about the same and hip room better in Highlander.
Cargo in Highalnder a little bigger.
Overall I found it hard to justify the +5K price difference so I bought the CRV.
Salesman came back solo, and said "sorry for the interruption - where were we?". Sales guy is young, so the manager may have him on a short leash. I like sales guy, and apples to apples I try to reward good service, but if his manager intervenes and insists on playing hardball, they'll lose me.
I asked my question on build percentages mainly so I could demonstrate for both of them that you don't treat your customers like morons.
I just finished dusting my Highlander for the evening and put it to bed for the night (okay, it's still brand new to me - 200 miles - cut me some slack).
Thanks for helping me with my purchase!
H
I have about 1200 miles on my V6 AWD Highlander and have not noticed any hard shifts and definitely no vibration in the steering wheel.
When I'm sitting at a traffic light, you wouldn't even know that the car is running.
Not sure if cold weather may play a factor in this? I live south of LA and have yet to drive it in temperatures below 50 degrees.
info. on cartrackers.com (re:sludge)
Please comment.
Steve
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Found post #4154 in the Edmunds Lexus RX300 forum to be of interest
and also from this site: http://yotarepair.com/breakingnews.html
“Engine Sludge: It's no surprise that the Avalon, Camry and Sienna engines built after 1996 are sludging up. The surprise is that the cause or major contributing factor is now known. For some reason Toyota redesigned the crankcase breathing system on those engines (4 and 6 cylinders). I don't know the reason for the change but you can guess that emission levels played a part. Since the engine can't breathe quick enough the varnish causing gases are left in the crankcase and start to cling to the metal parts. When enough "cling", sludge is formed. In the past it was always assumed that the owner was at fault by not changing the oil, I am now seeing good maintenance customers having the condition, so we are back to the PCV system. Toyota has a habit of ignoring the problem until the public awareness starts to affect sales or new cars. It took then 3+ years of knowing the 3.0 engine head gasket was a problem until they assumed the responsibility. As of late they are just starting to help some customers but it's a hidden secret and not many are getting help. Visit the Sludge Zone for more information.”
Now I don’t know if the above-mentioned vehicles have the same Highlander 3.0 Litre 1MZ-FE V6 engine, and even though only a few have reported an engine sludge problem and it can affect any engine without proper oil service maintenance, I plan on monitoring this one closely in the future. One has to remember that only a very small percentage of Toyota owners participate or report in various automotive forums on the internet. This reported problem could possibly be wide-spread, who knows.
I followed the links provided including that of the person claiming to be an ex-toyota mechanic. From the charges and counter-charges I could not determine for myself whether this was real or a fabrication. There are charges that people are duplicating and fabricating stories, no way to know who to believe...Given that I'll rely on the following until some of the folks who have a history of posting here actually come up with a problem:
1. I have never heard in my 52 years of an engine going bad because of sludge, Toyota or not, I have always changed my own, and it is very easy to see when oil goes from clear, to brown (change it), to dark brown/black. That usually means changing every 3 to 4 thousand miles.
2. I have read over the years (numerous consumer and industry magazines) that the Toyota/Lexus 3 liter 6's is one of the best v6's made....
3. Objective data, collected from car buyers, like Consumer Reports, JD Power consistently rate Toyotas as the most reliable vehicles made. This doesnt mean that they cant have problems, it just means that they have a lot fewer problems than other vehicles, certainly the domestic ones.
I change my own oil after 3 to 4 thousand miles, I have a Camry with 225 thousand miles on it, and like I said, I'll wait until some of the regulars on this group verify there is a problem before I take the "sludge" postings seriously.
When: Saturday Jan 19
Where: Pine Barrens (Lebanon State Forest, NJ)
Meet: Intersection of Rte 70 and 72 near Whiting, NJ
Time: 10:45-11am
Who: AWD/4wd Vehicles (no 2wd please)
What: Off-road Trail Ride through the barrens, will be fun for all, we encourage Subarus, Rav4s, CRVs, Isuzus, Highlanders, 4-runners, Santa Fe, Explorers, etc.
****Details****
In this morning's paper, I see an ad for a Toyota place that says "All Sienna XLEs, $1,000 under invoice". Whoa! That's $26,400, equipped the exact same way as the luxed-out Highlander I'm envisioning! OK, a minivan has a certain stigma (and my 16-year-old son would hate to be seen driving it), but aren't the two vehicles essentially the same under the skin?
Help me out here. I'm actually considering buying a Sienna over a Highlander.
I am loving my HL Limited, but its only been a few weeks and already the ivory mats are taking a beating.
Help!
We bought ours from
GregB
1. Never buy anything you don't REALLY want, even if it costs less. (I'm 48, and happen to agree 100% with your son.)
2. Do you need the additional space of the Sienna, or is the HL actually sufficient for your needs?
3. Make sure you are comparing apples to apples when it comes to price, but remember these are two different vehicles designed for different purposes. Never base a price on a newspaper add. Find a Sienna you would consider, and get the bottom line. Do the same for the HL you want. Possibly the price difference won't be as great as you suspect.
Good Luck. (I know you are looking for justification for going with the Highlander!)
Good luck.
Don
Drove the Highlander a couple weeks ago, and the salesman quoted 8% over invoice as his openning salvo... just like the dealer advertising Sienna for $1,000 under invoice in their ad (and, yeah, I take newspaper ads with a grain of salt).
When negotiating came we were discussing both but had our heart on the HL. Salesrep recommended don't spend all that cash for something your heart doesn't truly desire unless there is an absolute need to have the utilitarian need of 7 passenger, etc. In our case we didn't need it but was nice to have the extra speace for that once in a 6 month need for extra space.
After spending nearly all night negotiating we walked away with HL and paid $700 over invoice. Basically if the need is not there negotiate the price and spending a little more will get you what you want. Shop around. Do what some of the other post recommend by sending email blast.
Good luck in your decision and post yor decision.
What is M.A.F. of about 0.5% of base MSRP?
What is "1% finance reserve"?
Any enlightenment will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt
Looks? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Which one floats your boat? I hardly ever have anyone come up and ask what kind of car the Sienna is, or stare at it as we drive by. That happens all the time, though, with the HL.
Personally, I like driving the HL around town, to work, and on solo 1-day trips. But, with lots (or big) stuff to haul, taking the family, etc., the Sienna works better. The Sienna is probably a little more similar to the Previa than the HL is.
If you have any specific questions about the differences between the two vehicles I'd be glad to try to answer them. Incidentally, we bought the Sienna after a series of 3 Chrysler minivans, all of which were fine, reliable vehicles for us. Traded in a Subaru Forester for the HL--it was also a very fine car.
My suggestion: see if you can rent a Sienna and a HL for a day each, and go for long rides. If you are really not sure which way to go, that would be money well spent.
I've talked with 2 larger Toy dealers in the Twin Cities, MN. area.
Cliffy has made reference to the "TVO Book" at the dealerships to see what the local inventory is. Maybe if you looked at that you could see if they have a 4 with VSC and TO.
I have found Ross very easy to work with and he seems willing to do some legwork for you. e-mail me if you would like details.