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Toyota 4Runner Noises and Sounds
noisey4fun
Member Posts: 2
in Toyota
I have a 91 toyota 4runner.when its cold durring the winter time i get a rubbing grinding noise from the front right. When i hit a small bump it comes when i hit another small bump or stop it goes away. somtimes will go weeks without doing it other times every day
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Too much oil will cause "foaming" and if left that way for a period of time, it will cause bearing failure.
Dealer didn't tell you what the problem is and said it's going to cost $5,000?
STOP!
Get a second opinion from another shop, preferably a local shop.
Let us know.....
Thank you
I have a "clunking" metal noise that I can re-create occur when I make a hard turn to the left. My CV boots are intact. My steering is excellent at any speed.
No vibrations in the steering wheel at any mileage.
Important note: this is the model year which there is a front left BALL JOINT issue from time of the manufacter. I am not sure if it was repaired.
Important note also: the noise does not seem to occur at temperatures below 35 degree's here in Colorado. ( i.e., expansion and contraction of metal parts)
I recently had my shocks and springs changed.
I do see worn bushings on the front control arm and stabilizer bars ! Coulod this be the problem? What is the best way to isolate the issue?
Tim
Boulder,Colorado
Definitely a heater core leak. The engine coolant is routed through the radiator to cool it down. Someone figured out that if you routed it through a miniature radiator and blew air through that into the compartment, it would make a good heater while helping to cool the coolant down.
Now, the coolant system is under pressure. If a small leak occurs in the heater core (which happens from time to time as they are usually metal and will corrode) then the pressure/temperature combination will cause the coolant in there to boil, and it will leak out as steam which will condense and leak in the compartment. The AC has nothing to do with it.
If you are interested-
With the hood up, you should see a big round cylinder at the passenger side of the firewall (that which separates the hood area from the interior.) This is the cover for the blower motor. The fan for the blower motor is accessible from then inside of the passenger compartment behind the glove box. That is the air side of this. The heater core is wedged up in there pretty close to it all. If you look again in the hood area to the blower motor housing, you will see two (approximately 5/8") rubber coolant hoses. Likely one is running to the radiator and the other into the engine block. They are big, rubber, spongy and flexible, unlike the AC lines which are ridgid and metal. What those two hoses are clamped to near the blower motor housing/firewall is the heater core that is leaking an needs to be replaced. I'd check those hoses where they connect to the core first, just in case that is the trouble.
The heater core is usually replaced by removing the glove-box, the blower fan, and a few screws, then disconnecting those hoses (while the engine is cool and has been off for a long while. It never hurts to have the negative battery terminal disconnected either.) Then it can be pulled out. Its about 6" x 8" x 1" or thereabouts. A refurbished unit should run about 100 dollars or less, and a decent mechanic should be able to knock the job out in an hour or so.
Hope that helps... Merry Christmas.
I greased up where my half shaft goes through the hub and problem solved. Now I have to do it on the other side. There is also a bearing replacesment from toyota for it if yours are no good, mine where still going strong at 300kms.
Front Hub Spindle bearing.
1.hear the noise
2.whenever the truck is in motion ill let it coast and shut it off and noise would still be there. when in park i brought the rpm's up, there was no noise.
so this eliminates the motor
3. i checked wheel bearings by jacking up my t4r and tried to move wheel to see if there was any freeplay or slop there was none.
4. i then greased the brake pads.
5. i then took it out for a test drive.
6. still the same
7. i greased the ujoints and took it for a drive. 8.still the same.
9.then i greased the driveshaft its that slip yoke type and it got worse.
so could this mean i got a bad driveshaft?
and i also added diff gear oil.
did anyone have the same problem?
thanks
Thanks
Thanks.
It must have never been replace when the rack was installed but was wondering if some type of stock molding could work in its place?
Thanks in advance
PD
I've got an 07 and while waxing it I noticed that the strip you are talking about was not perfectly flat in its groove. I was able to press it back into place. I'm guessing that it was disturbed by the carwash I had just gotten. My guess is that you will have to order it from Toyota in order to get a proper fit.
Regards, DQ