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Dodge Durango
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Comments
-mike
It has very little to do with 'tuning' for the rough. Leaf springs have their strong points too.
ie... they take up much less cabin space than coil springs.
If one recalls basic physics... any action has an equal and opposite reaction. When the rear wheels are pushing against the road, the axle is trying to 'spin' the opposite direction of the wheels. This causes the leaf springs to twist or wind up. If a bump occurs that causes either rear wheel to loose traction, the springs suddenly snap back. If this cycle continues... you have the "wheel hop" you describe.
The devices that reduce this tendency usually have some type of '"snubber" that does not allow the wind-up to occur in the first place. The axle torque is directed into the frame instead of thru the leaf springs.
-mike
Thanks for responding so quickly. Basically, I guess it's just different designs that cause this "hop". I can live with it as long as there's nothing wrong with the vehicle. That "X" brace that you mentioned (rcarboni), does that affect warranty? And how much does something like that cost? Also, what else could be done (you mentioned sway bar) that could improve the suspension/"hop that is either factory or third party installed that would be worth the money.
Thanks again everyone for your knowledge and input. It is much appreciated.
Mike F.
-mike
-mike
-mike
If you just want the speed, I would buy a 5.9 SLT+ and add performance mods yourself as it would be less expensive.
manhattan2,
You should be running a lot faster than 13s. You might want to have the dealer check it out. Also, a jet chip does nothing for this engine, and a K&N will only add a few hp. A better intake is the Intense Performance Stage III(www.intenseperformance.com) that draws in cool air.
Chrylser wants to phase out the 5.9 and replace it with the hemi 5.7 (my next D!). I don't doubt they would also want to push the 4.7, but what numbers do they have to show the 4.7 is faster? Are you just taking someone's word without proof?
I watched a stock 5.9 RT DAK run 15.2's and another with a heavy fiber galss Cap on the bed run 15.7's.
Thus low 16.0s would probably be the normal time for a D.
Also, who would plunk 35K$ on a truck and not testdrive it?? If it was such a dog, why did you buy it??
One last point, anyone can see from the brochure, that he RT package gives 5Hp, some trim level equipment, and wheels.
Go buy a Mall Runner, then you will see what a dog is !
NV242 for about 300$ more. The FT4wd works great. It splits touque about 50/50 front to back which is great. You can also lock it in 4 HI and 4Lo.
Most cheap systems, AKA cute ute(Honda CRV, RAV4, Scoobado) use viscous couplers for their FT systems. However, on theirs your rear diff has to slip and loose traction first, then the fluid in the coupler(changes viscosity) transmits some touque to the front. Of course your rear end slides all over the place. Not so with the D's.
Very stableand you can use it on dry pavement.
You can opt for the part time system, but you can only engage it in 4 Hi when there is snow or off raod.
I agree with Scott Q, there are some envious people who for some reason come out of the woodwork to bash the Durangos. Mine has been damn good, it is a great SUV. If you want a nice well equipped SUV with great towing capacity, strong drivetrain, get a D. If you want to spend the same $$$ but dont mind a V6 you can go with any others, but mind you, look at the tourque and weight specs. Then ask yourself if you can live with a SUV that weighs practically the same, yet has 100+ ft-lbs less tourque and gets about the same gas mileage and doesnt have a 3rd seat. If you tow anything the D is the way to go.
Good luck with whatever you choose.
It's too bad you can't dis-engage the awd. I like to dis-engage mine when I'm on the highway in the dry weather.
The soobies are NOT the same as the CRV and RAV 4.
They have a 90/10 split front to rear on the Automatic Transmissions, and 50/50 on the Manual Transmissions. In the VDC model its a 35/65 split with traction control. The Escape, CRV and RAV 4 are as you explained...
The Durango is a great tow vehicle though, I'll definitely give it high marks in that area...
-mike
In regards to the Subarus, you are correct. They act like a FWD. Until this year(as I understand it) all were 90/10 split.
My point on these( family members, co workers have them) is that they can get squirly when you loose traction on the drive wheels when the tourque shoots to the nondrive wheels, especially on wet surfaces or if you goose it on a corner.
I like the D, since it tends not to do this. Plus the wheel base is so long that it is more stable.
Most people who buy these systems, have no idea how they work nor there limitations.
FWIW, My father has a 99 D. It has the NV242, but has a 2WD mode. We get the same mileage, 15 MPG around town, 16.5 mixed, 17 MPG hghway. Thus I conclude, there is no penalty when they eliminated the 2WD mode in the NV242.
I am saving my $$$ for the 2003 model when they put the 5.7 Hemi in them. The competion wont know what hit them then when you can get the D with 350 HP
later
You use good logic, Chevy pickup vs Dodge SUV
Maybe a better comparison would be, Suburban vs RT
Also did you order the RT or buy off the lot?? If off the lot, it must have fooled you into thinking it was fast or why else would you plunk down 35K$$ on a deal from the lot. Or did the salesman have the secret nitrous button turned on when you floored it during the test drive
power passenger seat
newly designed seats w/heat and power bolsters
push button transfer case
new rear air w heater
16" X 8" wheels on slt+
one new color a deep red color
deleted one of the grey colors
new controls on air & heater
thats the major stuff that I can remember
Scott Q
in Post 281, You state uou have a 99 Chevy 4wd 5.3 L. You have a Durango RT(which you are complaining about), in this post you state you have a 4.7 DAK Quad Cab and a Audi Quattro 2.7T
So in my mind you have spent 35K for the D, another 30K for the 99 Chevy 4WD PU, Probably 30K+ for the DAK and 25K?? on the Audi!
That is over 120K$+
Wow! You buy a lot of cars.
Keep your D another 2 yrs and I'll make you an offer
I love the AWD on it but was curious what downsides any of you have seen on the AWD side v. the PT4wd versions.
-mike
Also, I find the Trooper personally ugly, dont care for the box construction, so out of date. Carrying the spare on the back also is so out of date.Also two brother in laws had 89 Troopers, one had blown head gasket/cracked head at 80K, other had two failed rear diffs, leaky rear main seal. His wife had bad luck with a 87 I-Mark Turbo, should have gotten a Shelby Turbo. The turbo failed at 60K which. Told them to run synthetic, didnt listen. My Turbo cars still run, two with over 140K on them.
Also why are the sales of the Trooper in the tank?? Looks like they will sell under 20K unit this year?? Guess the market has rejected them. They are 35th in sales in SUV class. Go Here:
http://www.autosite.com/editoria/asmr/svolsu.asp
Were sales always that low?? My Neighbor had a 93 which he paid 27K$ for. Seemed fairly good until he hit about 90K, then he had problems with the AC and injection. Traded it in on a Volvo.
-mike
They are great cars, cheap to run, easy to tweak, get great gas mileage, and parts are plentiful. Just got back from an SDAC event, watched many run 12's with simple mods. For example at dyno day a guy with a 2.5 Turbo and 160K on the short block put 247 HP and 386 ft-lbs of tourque to the wheels with his 86 Omni GLHS. Note he runs 12.5's. Has 3" exh, volvo intercooler, a 10$ grainger valve to control boost, +20 injectors, 30$ digital AF guage to monitor fuel curve, fresh clutch, and slicks.
Not to shabby.
So please dont rag on K cars, if the people who owned them took care of them, they would routinely get 200K miles. I have seen many with that mileage over the years. That 2.2/2.5 block is indestructable. Have seen many run at 25+ lbs of boost on stock rods, pistons, bottome end.
Later
These were the 2.2l engines, not the Turbo 2.5, I loved my '86 Lebaron GTS Turbo (til it got stolen and they bent the frame driving over a median, and as a result the tranny kept going on it after that)
-mike
The information you supplied was GREAT! I have seen for the past few model years the rear AC listed as an option w/o heater but never saw a heater option anyway. My question for you is what is your source for this information. I am looking to purchase a 2001 model D in Oct-Nov and wanted a preview of whats to come.
Thank You
Eric
Does anyone tow their durango with 4.7 liter that is over 6,000 lbs.? Any feedback is appreciated
-Max
Will I be loosing much in safety? Help! He has not been very helpful (surprise, surprise).
I can't believe people are even putting posts questioning the Durango's speed. To me, that's is its biggest strong point. Manhatten, you undoubtedly have something wrong with your RT, cause it should be somewhere near my numbers. Even with the full time four wheel drive. Personally, I opted for the part time system because it should be a little quicker and heard it is better off-road.
Thanks!