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Comments
Has anyone experience this problem with an Alero, and what is the cause/fix?
If the question of the fuel pump comes up, it was replaced a couple of months back. This car was doing this same thing, before the pump was replaced.
Thoughts?
How do I retrieve OBD2 codes without scan tool for an Oldsmobile Alero 2000?
Try this: Exercise the combination switch several times (and I mean a lot) by operating the signals while switching the high beams off and on (also the flash to pass). I haven't read anything or taken one apart but I think tin creep (tendrils forming on the tin contacts inside the switch) may the culprit in some cases.
I have an 04 GA and I had this problem. I changed the flasher out on someone's recommendation and it still did it. Then I noticed that putting slight pressure on the combination switch without activating it would cause the fast ticking noise. Exercising the switch took care of it and it hasn't re-occured since.
Please let me know if you had any success with the bleed.
Thanks.
Is this a sensor problem and how do I trouble shoot and replace it>
Good luck!
I suggest that since it is such a cheap fix that you start there. When this problem first started happening, the lights and beeping would only happen from time to time and I didn't have any problem with the brakes, after awhile and through trying to fix the problem, it got worse. If the lights and beeping didn't happen when I first started driving, whenever I pressed on the brakes to turn corner or come to a complete stop, I would have the vibration and antilock sound and almost felt like I wasn't going to stop. If the lights were on, I could stop just fine. Crazy I know!
I have had all 4 hub assemblies replaced, one of them twice because it was reading open and the mechanic thought it was a faulty part, wiring harness, etc...
Since I took it to a new mechanic and he suggested this cheap fix, I was all for it. Amazingly the light came on twice in one day the first week and over a month later, it hasn't come on nor do I have ANY problems!
I know I'm a woman, and don't know much about cars...I suggest that you try this fix. One because it worked for my car and also because it is a cheap and easy way to start trying to find a fix. I could have saved a lot of money had my first mechanic suggest something like this. Live and learn I guess.
Let me know if this works for you, and if not what you found out.
Chris
the car has 115,000 miles on it.
Thanks!
HELP!!!????
When an Alero runs, it's one of the very nicest autos on the road; but don't count on it running properly. My daughter totaled mine in a freak accident, so it didn't kill any of us. Many of the components of the Aleros are faulty; insist that your dealership look up the technical service bulletins and don't be shy about assigning responsibility to the GM dealership for fixing these common and weird Alero problems. A relative of mine who was very high in GM/Olds management cringed when I told him laughingly about my now-dead Alero and told me I should have invoked Michigan's 'lemon law,' and taken it right back to the assembly plant in Lansing. (And I was so happy and proud to have an auto made in the city I worked in by a crew of whom I knew several personally...) Sigh.
We narrowed it down by pulling the coil packs one at a time and then starting it. which ever set didn't make the knocking worse was the bank of cylinders that was causing the prob. #1 or #4, popped the valve cover in the front and there it was...#4.
I just added fuel injection cleaner and was driving harder than i usaully do to burn / push out any deposits. I think i pushed it too hard. obviously.
The first thing that comes to mind is the fuel regulator. Is that the original fuel regulator that was on the car since 2001? Does it run normally while you are going a constant speed? (i.e. driving down the freeway). I had to replace my fuel regulator not long after I got my 2000 Alero. The regulator cost $74.00 at the auto parts store.
I do all my own repairs so I really don't know the cost of having a repair shop replace the regulator.
Hope this helps
Daniel
Has anyone had this problem resolved, because it sounds common, and there should be a fix?
I am going to check the VIN tomorrow (on Oldsmobile.com) for recalls available for my car.
OK, I have pondered this for a few minutes. Here is what comes to mind first.
When it dies, are you able to restart it without trouble? If so, then it sounds like a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum hoses that go to the throttle body. If the vacuum hoses are good and tight, ( not cracked ) then there is a leaky gasket on the throttle body. Here is why I say this, When it is cold, the rubber hoses and gaskets have contracted just enough to hold a tight seal. After the engine gets to operating temperature, the hoses and gaskets soften up and that will cause vacuum leaks.
I hope this helps,
Daniel
I have not heard of a V4 engine, but you should have the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine, If you are standing in front of the car, on the right side of the engine below the black electrical connector for the ignition module you will see the sensor. It is rather difficult to get to if you don't have the proper tools to change it out. It is below and behind the silver fuel lines. My recommendation to you is go to an auto parts store and get the socket for the removal of the sensor. It will make the change out alot easier and quicker.
I hope this helps,
Daniel
It has been several years since I had my hands on a corvette. There are a couple of things that I suggest you check first. Make sure that your throttle cable is not snagged some where. Check and make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks. Does your Corvette have a carburator or does it have a throttle body with fuel injectors? Reply to this message and let me know which one you have.
Daniel