ive had my head gasket replaced 2 time took it back a 3 time complaining car is over heating they replaced the overflow resorvore cap 3 times now i cant drive 15 miles with out over heating and loseing coolent . i dont have much money so im asking for some help here. i bleed the air out of the bleder line but still no heat but over heats bad coolent goes out the over flow hose ?could it be just the thermostat? help!!!!!!!
my brother has had the same problem with his gmc pick up truck all the suden no power wont run over 10 miles an hour .its the throdle body has gone out .it seem gm has this problem with a lot of there cars and trucks. they arent cheap around $1200 but there seems to be some thing else causeing them to go out.
We have a 2004 Alero, and whenever we put fuel in the car, regardless of the level of the tank (empty, half full, etc.) the car will not start up. Often it takes 3-4 turns of the ignition to get it going, or sometimes it's minutes before it will go.
Has anyone experience this problem with an Alero, and what is the cause/fix?
If the question of the fuel pump comes up, it was replaced a couple of months back. This car was doing this same thing, before the pump was replaced.
ive fount a mecanic thats going to work on my car replaceing the head gasket .he is willing to do the work for $400:00 but im to get the parts,so any one tell me what all i need to get + any help to check out for any other things i should may be aware of .posted 11/22/08
I had that problem with my truck. I do not know the exact name of the part. It was ta flap not closing to block the cold air when you change your temp from cold to hot.
I have a 2001 alero, right after i got my last oil change my heat stopped working and only works on high, the auto tech said it s was the blower motor resistor. I have read a few forums discussing this issue, I would like to know if this is something that I should get fixed a and auto shop or could it be done by a personal mechanic? Any advice?
I need to know where and how to bleed the hydraulic clutch on my 03 alero. The pedal was not engaging, I checked the fluid, it was low and added Dot3 to it. Then when pumped it would engaged, but lose the pressure. Now it has gone straight to the floor and will not pressure up. I am thinking a bleed is necessary. This is my son's car and I do not have the repair manual nor am I familiar with where the bleed screw is. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:
Did you recheck the fluid level? If so, was it low again? If it's losing fluid then it has a leak, probably down at the slave cylinder. If that's the case then bleeding won't help.
The bleeder valve should be on the slave cylinder mounted down on the transmission, probably close or on the bell housing. You do it just like bleeding brakes. While down there check for moistness around the slave cylinder, I suspect you'll find it's leaking, or possibly the hose running to it.
Typically it's either the flasher assembly itself or the combination switch. The flasher assembly is behind the emergency flasher button on the dash, the combination switch is of course the turn signal/high beam control.
Try this: Exercise the combination switch several times (and I mean a lot) by operating the signals while switching the high beams off and on (also the flash to pass). I haven't read anything or taken one apart but I think tin creep (tendrils forming on the tin contacts inside the switch) may the culprit in some cases. I have an 04 GA and I had this problem. I changed the flasher out on someone's recommendation and it still did it. Then I noticed that putting slight pressure on the combination switch without activating it would cause the fast ticking noise. Exercising the switch took care of it and it hasn't re-occured since.
How did you make out? I also have an 03 with the same problem. Slave cylinder is internal, so is there an external bleeder? Transmission shop says no sense in bleeding, as it will be a short term fix only. New slave cylinder and clutch kit is very expensive here in Canada. (almost $800) I have been looking at US sources, and it looks like it can be had for $325 (AC Delco - Rock Auto).
Please let me know if you had any success with the bleed.
I was replying to someone else, it wasn't my problem. I wasn't aware that the slave cylinder was internal on that model. I'd like to see how they do that.
My 2000 alero has had issues over past 6 mos with loss of traction light coming on with service engine light after driving over rough surfaces. For a while it went off again, but more recently it comes on now as soon as I start to drive and stays on until the ingition is swithced off. Is this a sensor problem and how do I trouble shoot and replace it>
I have a 2002 Alero that just had the front pads and rotors replaced. There is still a pulsing that happens when braking. What did I miss? It seems to be coming from the front but is it possible that it's the rear brakes? Any ideas would be very helpful...thanks!
its either rotors are warped or drums are bad or drum shoes not adjusted properly or abs acting up thats about it if u need 2 u should still be able 2 drive good luck
I have been having the same problem with my 03 Alero, I have replaced all 4 of the wheel bearing assemblies, the brake light switch and the wiring harness. Have you found a fix to this problem? I bought this car with 35,000 miles on it and have had it 1 1/2 years and have probably put almost $7000.00 in to it. Intake gasket, new ignition switch (due to the security problem) thermostat, coolant pipe, shall I go on?! Just recently with the ABS/Trac Off/Service vehicle soon lights on, right before they come on while pressing on the brakes and turning the wheel the brake pedal vibrates and it almost sounds like the antilock is trying to kick in for no reason, then the lights and dinging happen. Please if you or anyone else has had this problem and found a fix for it, please let me know! I thank you!!!
The last thing that I just had done has somewhat fixed the problem. I had new wiring installed at the wheel area of the front of vehicle. Like I had mentioned before, I had already had a new wiring harness installed and wiring repairs, but took it to a new mechanic that suggested to replace wires leading to hub in wheel well area at front of car. That was about a month ago and only had the light come on twice in the first week, which could of been for stored codes in vehicle because I have not had any issues since. I keep my fingers crossed everyday that this fixed the problem. You might want your mechanic to try that fix, it only cost me $65.00 for this replacement which to me was pretty inexpensive considering what I have alreay put into it. Good luck!
The wiring did fix the problem, so far anyway. I suggest that since it is such a cheap fix that you start there. When this problem first started happening, the lights and beeping would only happen from time to time and I didn't have any problem with the brakes, after awhile and through trying to fix the problem, it got worse. If the lights and beeping didn't happen when I first started driving, whenever I pressed on the brakes to turn corner or come to a complete stop, I would have the vibration and antilock sound and almost felt like I wasn't going to stop. If the lights were on, I could stop just fine. Crazy I know! I have had all 4 hub assemblies replaced, one of them twice because it was reading open and the mechanic thought it was a faulty part, wiring harness, etc... Since I took it to a new mechanic and he suggested this cheap fix, I was all for it. Amazingly the light came on twice in one day the first week and over a month later, it hasn't come on nor do I have ANY problems! I know I'm a woman, and don't know much about cars...I suggest that you try this fix. One because it worked for my car and also because it is a cheap and easy way to start trying to find a fix. I could have saved a lot of money had my first mechanic suggest something like this. Live and learn I guess. Let me know if this works for you, and if not what you found out. Chris
My daughters car did the same thing. I was told to turn the ignition to the on position and let it sit without trying to start it.Then after 15 min. shut the ignition off and then try to start it ,it works for my daughters car which is an 01 alero.Through my searching i was able to determilne that it may be the anti theft device .This device can be reflashed at a dealership.
How difficult is it to inspect and perhaps change the spark plugs on a 2003 Alero V6 3.4 liter engine? I'd like to check them out myself but don't know much about car repair. Is this something to leave for professionals? If they are easy to inspect, how can I tell if they are getting bad or need replacing?
Has anyone replaced their ignition key module (part), If so I would like to know how it was done..I read on the forum somplace that only the key was used to do this, duh could this be?
In the last 3 months due to dash lights, I have replaced my thermostat, my O2 sensor and my left wheel bearing 2 times because I thought the sensor was bad. .Now in the last 3 weeks every light on my dash is lit!! I just had a complete brake job and my "brake light" on the dash is still on. My "service engine light" , "service vehicle soon", "anti-lock" and "ABS" are all on......Now they tell me that i need to spend $100.00 to put on the diagnostic machine. They seem to think that it's my pcm. **also: I have an electric start that was professionally installed 4 years ago and last winter it "hickup'd" and lost all its memory and they had to reprogram it. HELP!!!????
I feel your pain more than you can know. I owned a 2001 top-of-the-line, loaded Alero because I viewed it as an investment in a good car that would be my retirement vehicle. At 17K miles, my first set of brakes; 30-something K, first wheel-hub replaced, 40-something second wheel-hub, then fuel-sending unit, shorted caution-light switch, turn-signals that were only sporadic and nearly caused accidents 3 times, heater blower would only work on lowest and highest setting, then only highest...get the picture?
When an Alero runs, it's one of the very nicest autos on the road; but don't count on it running properly. My daughter totaled mine in a freak accident, so it didn't kill any of us. Many of the components of the Aleros are faulty; insist that your dealership look up the technical service bulletins and don't be shy about assigning responsibility to the GM dealership for fixing these common and weird Alero problems. A relative of mine who was very high in GM/Olds management cringed when I told him laughingly about my now-dead Alero and told me I should have invoked Michigan's 'lemon law,' and taken it right back to the assembly plant in Lansing. (And I was so happy and proud to have an auto made in the city I worked in by a crew of whom I knew several personally...) Sigh.
I have a 2002 alero. i had several BCMs (Body control module)replaced. It was a leak in the windshield (bad seal around the bottom of the glass from the factory) that kept shorting out the BCM and causing several dashboard lights to go on. the dealership one time put a plastic bag over the BCM to stop the water from shorting out the BCM,instead of fixing the leak first. I think i went through 4 BCMs total before the leak was fixed. The bcm is under the glove box up by the firewall. maybe this info can help
I was told that when the anit-lock or abs lights are "on", the default is the abs brakes are disabled. That is why you could break better when the fault codes were active.
If you're having the security issue, you'll know because your security sign on your dash will not only be lit up, but it will be blinking. I have a 2003 Alero, with only 83,000 miles, and it does this about once every two or three months. Here's my fix (this has been working for over a year, and I found the answer on this forum). 1st - Take your key off the ring so it is in the ignition alone. 2nd - Turn the key to the 1st position (ACC) and let it sit there for 20-25 mintues. When you come back to the car, check: the security light will no longer be blinking. 3rd - When you go to turn the key, turn it right away all the way, (do not take the key out and start over). It works for me every time. If I'm not explaining this well, you can find another explanation in a forum that was posted on here about a year and a half ago. I hope this helps you. (A tip - each time you go to start the car, be sure to pause at that ACC (the first click) and let the battery get good and juiced up. It is usually when I'm in a hurry and forget to pause there, that I have the starting issue. I can't wait until my car is paid off, so I can drive something else. This is so frustrating! Anyway, good luck!
Hi, the radiator is leaking from the plastic nipple that goes to the overflow bottle, it looks like the plastic has a tiny crack. I was wondering if anybody out there has changed rad. on a 2000 Alero can give me some tips and tell me how difficult the job might be. Thanks
I just had the push rod on my 03 alero (3400) either wear thru or snap the rocker arm on cyl. #4. Thankful it was on the front bank! We narrowed it down by pulling the coil packs one at a time and then starting it. which ever set didn't make the knocking worse was the bank of cylinders that was causing the prob. #1 or #4, popped the valve cover in the front and there it was...#4.
I just added fuel injection cleaner and was driving harder than i usaully do to burn / push out any deposits. I think i pushed it too hard. obviously.
go to local audio install store. have them bypass the security. they use a resistor to bridge across. Ive had ZERO problems since. It kills the transponder from the chip in the key. beats having to sit for 15 min.
my '03 (125,000 mls. ) was leaking from engine block. It leaked for 6 mths til winter hit. It was the water pump. pump cost at local store 57.00-69.00. labor hours = 8-9. mine cost 560.00.
The first thing that comes to mind is the fuel regulator. Is that the original fuel regulator that was on the car since 2001? Does it run normally while you are going a constant speed? (i.e. driving down the freeway). I had to replace my fuel regulator not long after I got my 2000 Alero. The regulator cost $74.00 at the auto parts store. I do all my own repairs so I really don't know the cost of having a repair shop replace the regulator.
I am having the same problem. My 2000 model starts fine in 10 degree weather. Then, after driving 15 minutes and the car is running warm, I arrive to my parking garage. So, I usually park on the 4-8 floors, meaning I have to stop at least 5 times. Each time the car wants looses RPMs and acts as if it is going to shut off. By the time I am parking in a space, I have to act quickly, or it does shut off, and often times it does as I set it in "park".
Has anyone had this problem resolved, because it sounds common, and there should be a fix?
I am going to check the VIN tomorrow (on Oldsmobile.com) for recalls available for my car.
OK, I have pondered this for a few minutes. Here is what comes to mind first. When it dies, are you able to restart it without trouble? If so, then it sounds like a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum hoses that go to the throttle body. If the vacuum hoses are good and tight, ( not cracked ) then there is a leaky gasket on the throttle body. Here is why I say this, When it is cold, the rubber hoses and gaskets have contracted just enough to hold a tight seal. After the engine gets to operating temperature, the hoses and gaskets soften up and that will cause vacuum leaks.
Does anyone know where the low oil pressure sensor is located on on 2002 Olds Alero V4. I believe the sensor is bad and would like to change it so any information as to where it is located and how to change it would be appreciated.
I have not heard of a V4 engine, but you should have the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine, If you are standing in front of the car, on the right side of the engine below the black electrical connector for the ignition module you will see the sensor. It is rather difficult to get to if you don't have the proper tools to change it out. It is below and behind the silver fuel lines. My recommendation to you is go to an auto parts store and get the socket for the removal of the sensor. It will make the change out alot easier and quicker.
It has been several years since I had my hands on a corvette. There are a couple of things that I suggest you check first. Make sure that your throttle cable is not snagged some where. Check and make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks. Does your Corvette have a carburator or does it have a throttle body with fuel injectors? Reply to this message and let me know which one you have.
Comments
Has anyone experience this problem with an Alero, and what is the cause/fix?
If the question of the fuel pump comes up, it was replaced a couple of months back. This car was doing this same thing, before the pump was replaced.
Thoughts?
How do I retrieve OBD2 codes without scan tool for an Oldsmobile Alero 2000?
Try this: Exercise the combination switch several times (and I mean a lot) by operating the signals while switching the high beams off and on (also the flash to pass). I haven't read anything or taken one apart but I think tin creep (tendrils forming on the tin contacts inside the switch) may the culprit in some cases.
I have an 04 GA and I had this problem. I changed the flasher out on someone's recommendation and it still did it. Then I noticed that putting slight pressure on the combination switch without activating it would cause the fast ticking noise. Exercising the switch took care of it and it hasn't re-occured since.
Please let me know if you had any success with the bleed.
Thanks.
Is this a sensor problem and how do I trouble shoot and replace it>
Good luck!
I suggest that since it is such a cheap fix that you start there. When this problem first started happening, the lights and beeping would only happen from time to time and I didn't have any problem with the brakes, after awhile and through trying to fix the problem, it got worse. If the lights and beeping didn't happen when I first started driving, whenever I pressed on the brakes to turn corner or come to a complete stop, I would have the vibration and antilock sound and almost felt like I wasn't going to stop. If the lights were on, I could stop just fine. Crazy I know!
I have had all 4 hub assemblies replaced, one of them twice because it was reading open and the mechanic thought it was a faulty part, wiring harness, etc...
Since I took it to a new mechanic and he suggested this cheap fix, I was all for it. Amazingly the light came on twice in one day the first week and over a month later, it hasn't come on nor do I have ANY problems!
I know I'm a woman, and don't know much about cars...I suggest that you try this fix. One because it worked for my car and also because it is a cheap and easy way to start trying to find a fix. I could have saved a lot of money had my first mechanic suggest something like this. Live and learn I guess.
Let me know if this works for you, and if not what you found out.
Chris
the car has 115,000 miles on it.
Thanks!
HELP!!!????
When an Alero runs, it's one of the very nicest autos on the road; but don't count on it running properly. My daughter totaled mine in a freak accident, so it didn't kill any of us. Many of the components of the Aleros are faulty; insist that your dealership look up the technical service bulletins and don't be shy about assigning responsibility to the GM dealership for fixing these common and weird Alero problems. A relative of mine who was very high in GM/Olds management cringed when I told him laughingly about my now-dead Alero and told me I should have invoked Michigan's 'lemon law,' and taken it right back to the assembly plant in Lansing. (And I was so happy and proud to have an auto made in the city I worked in by a crew of whom I knew several personally...) Sigh.
We narrowed it down by pulling the coil packs one at a time and then starting it. which ever set didn't make the knocking worse was the bank of cylinders that was causing the prob. #1 or #4, popped the valve cover in the front and there it was...#4.
I just added fuel injection cleaner and was driving harder than i usaully do to burn / push out any deposits. I think i pushed it too hard. obviously.
The first thing that comes to mind is the fuel regulator. Is that the original fuel regulator that was on the car since 2001? Does it run normally while you are going a constant speed? (i.e. driving down the freeway). I had to replace my fuel regulator not long after I got my 2000 Alero. The regulator cost $74.00 at the auto parts store.
I do all my own repairs so I really don't know the cost of having a repair shop replace the regulator.
Hope this helps
Daniel
Has anyone had this problem resolved, because it sounds common, and there should be a fix?
I am going to check the VIN tomorrow (on Oldsmobile.com) for recalls available for my car.
OK, I have pondered this for a few minutes. Here is what comes to mind first.
When it dies, are you able to restart it without trouble? If so, then it sounds like a vacuum leak in one of the vacuum hoses that go to the throttle body. If the vacuum hoses are good and tight, ( not cracked ) then there is a leaky gasket on the throttle body. Here is why I say this, When it is cold, the rubber hoses and gaskets have contracted just enough to hold a tight seal. After the engine gets to operating temperature, the hoses and gaskets soften up and that will cause vacuum leaks.
I hope this helps,
Daniel
I have not heard of a V4 engine, but you should have the 2.4L 4 cylinder engine, If you are standing in front of the car, on the right side of the engine below the black electrical connector for the ignition module you will see the sensor. It is rather difficult to get to if you don't have the proper tools to change it out. It is below and behind the silver fuel lines. My recommendation to you is go to an auto parts store and get the socket for the removal of the sensor. It will make the change out alot easier and quicker.
I hope this helps,
Daniel
It has been several years since I had my hands on a corvette. There are a couple of things that I suggest you check first. Make sure that your throttle cable is not snagged some where. Check and make sure that you don't have vacuum leaks. Does your Corvette have a carburator or does it have a throttle body with fuel injectors? Reply to this message and let me know which one you have.
Daniel