Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II

awseymour

No really !!! Once in a while when I start it up, the compass just says "E" (error??), but if you look closly when it lights up, you can see it flash a degree and an "F" and a "C". The display has those characters as well as enough room(cells) for 3 numbers in it. The dealer thought I was "nuts" until I showed him. At some point in their past, did the compass also house the indoor outdoor temp guage ?

I have also raised a few eyebrows driving in a circle in the office lot. I just shrug, they dont understand Rovers...

nanuq

Tell them it's a new British innovation... windup SUVs. Good for the environment. Or tell them you're putting Lord Lucas off your scent before the drive home.

Actually I do the same sort of thing in REALLY cold temps, I drive a big figure-8 at full lock, to make sure the gear lube in the swivel balls coats my CV joints before I drive away. Anything to get the lubes spread around before I ask her to scurry.

Enjoy the Roverisms! Any lesser SUV would be boring in comparison. Treat her well, maintain her like a queen, spank her often, and she'll love you forever. (I can hear the cries of sexism already!)

Ducking and hiding, -Bob

kbowen

Shades of Lord Lucas!!! This morning, tired of that damn sticking compass, I cursed the damn thing and threw holy water on it. Damn if when I cranked it up and started down the street the compass was working again. I wonder if that will work on the ACE light too when it comes on again?

As for the compass letters F and C that pop up, I know that C is the setting for calibrate. You use a ball point pin to activate a button located in a small hole under the mirror. Once C is displayed you drive in tight circles 4 or 5 times and it supposedly calibrates itself (I also suppose clucking like a chicken at the same time will help). You also use that button to set the compass zone, 1 through 8 depending on where you live. Only numbers show up during that process, so I have no idea what an F stands for, other than FREAKY (stuff happening). My unit was built on a Friday and it's beginning to appear that Lucas himself is onboard. I curse the day I bought this piece of trash. (Bob, you think that will do it?)

nanuq

"I curse the day I bought this piece of trash."

While that ain't too bad, it's really got to be a FORCEFUL Disclaimer to make the Prince of Darkness believe you. Your Disclaimer has to come from the depths of your tortured soul. Please try again. Try interspersing random swearing and misspellings (evidence of impending insanity).

Cheers!

tincup47

The compass mirror is not a Land Rover specific part, it is from a vendor who supplies similar mirrors to many manufacturers. You can also buy the mirror direct and install it yourself on many vehicles. My wife's Subaru has a similar unit. In some applications it has a thermometer function, hence the F. The vendor is from the US, and has no connection with Lucas.

kbowen

I'm convinced once Lucas is in your truck, he infects all parts, where ever they are made, like a plague that spreads relentlessly and viciously throughout bringing darkness and frustration to all of those who try to deal with it. (How else can you explain that damn ACE light that keeps coming on despite repair visits; and it is absolutely true the day I cursed this thing for the first time--rather than the dealership-- that the compass began working again.)

Now for a better disclaimer: I curse the day I bought this evil and infested piece of dogc--- that not fit for even the likes of bin laden and shouldn't be allowed on the roads of hell, let alone in any county anywhere; it is TRASH, TRASH, TRASH and I would personally like to kick the living *%$#(*&^%$# out of it (but my insurance wouldn't cover it). And out of respect that this is not a porno forum I can only say this truck is just one big HUGE pile of #@!*&%##%$%$%#%^&)(*> How's that?

erichochman

hello all..i am looking to buy a 2002 LR Disc SD..i have a few questions..whew , i am in love with the looks of the LR, but reliability seems to be suspect..i want a truck i can drive for 150,000 miles without a worry..what advice can you list and is the gas milelage as bad as everyone says!! will i be at the pump every 5 days?

thanks in advance..

also, please advise on last thing..how much above invoice is a good deal for this car..thanks again..eric

dealmkrjjd

I have a 2000 DII with 28,000 miles and have only had the truck in for scheduled service. I get the exact milage that the sticker says- 13 city 17 Hwy. The only time this may very is if it is very hot out and I am running the air constantly then the city drops to about 11 city, but the hwy stays at 17. About driving it 150,000 miles, I get sick of my cars after a few years so I am not that concerned with that aspect. I would think that if you maintain the vehicle properly it should last not problem. If you have looked at the under carriage of these trucks they are way over built for 99% of what people use them for, so I think you have a much greater shot with a DII than with anything else. P.S. I had an Explorer and it was a total piece of #%$& that I would not trust to 50,000 miles. Just my 2 cents, a happy LR owner.

kbowen

I've only had my 2001 DII for 6K so it would be premature to comment on how it might do 140K or so down the road. I do know I previously owned a Jeep Grand and drove it for about 75K. It is REALLY a total piece of %$#$@^&*&^*(, so I would not even consider it. It left me stranded in the Canyonlands UT area 2 years in a row. I will be testing the DII there this summer. I do know, though, that from from what I can see and feel--so far--there is no question but that the DII is built far superior to the Jeep and gives a "sense" that it can handle far more than your ordinary SUV. And, there is no question but that quality has vastly improved since Ford has assumed title. (Now if they will only leave a good thing alone.)

hinari

why, on my DII when you turn off the HVAC completely with the fans turned down all the way, MORE air starts coming thru the vents? The only way to make it stop is to divert it to other vents or by closing the dash vents, which of course, results in the banshee wail sound?

BTW, I absolutely hate this piece of British trash for the drooling, envious stares I get from people as I negotiate impossible trails and for when the hapless toyota rear-ended me, totalling itself and absolutely knocking HELL out of my rear foglight lense on the bumper, and for the way I have to make do, while on said impossible trail, with the beautiful perforated leather interior complete with dual sunroofs and the Alpine/Harman Kardon stereo providing some of the best OEM sound I've heard! (At least the fog-light bulb still works - small consolation!)

So if you're considering a new purchase of the DII, please be willing to put up with such things. Not to mention the unstoppable airflow!

carleton1

Based on all I have ever seen and read, your brand vehicle is THE BEST for driving in extreme conditions. Enjoy. Carl

nanuq

Now THAT was an excellent Lord Lucas Disclaimer (LLD) if I ever saw one!

You might wander over to

http://catalog.roversnorth.com/wwwboard/w3bbrr.html

and ask the question about the HVAC... I believe they beat that topic to death last Fall.

Cheers!

jake3895

Has anyone experienced problems of lower front bumpers cracking after slight contact with another vehicles rear bumper? This happened even though I have a brush bar on the front. It doesn't protect the lower side panels which I found out were plastic. It costs $1200 plus tax to replace the whole bumper. It is a leased vehicle and I'm am sure I can't replace it with an aftermarket stronger full surround bumper.

nanuq

Yeah... I've had the same problems but mine come from impacts with snow berms. I'm thinking the ARB front bumper (with all the plastic air damming removed) will be the right way to go. On the DI when you hit a snow berm hard it bends the air dam back and up... it's mounted with thinnish straps that bend easily... and I just push them back into place.

Good luck, -Bob

ps: if you should get a big settlement and have an ARB laying around in the near future... *grin*

imariquinn

Hi, I posted this question on the lease board, but read the posts here as well. So here goes:

OK, I am supposed to go in Monday to do paperwork and pick up my truck. I have them holding while I sleep on their deal. The deal is on the table is $454 a month for 39 months with 15000 miles with a residual of $17200.00 for a 02 Disco II in black ($300) and the rear air conditioning package ($750). At signing on Monday, I am to pay first month lease payment, $400 security deposit & $2495 down payment plus taxes, tag and title fees (told this is an estimated $3800 total at signing). I was told I have Tier 0 credit and was waiting for bank approval. Now here is where I am lost, what am I paying for the vehicle as far as invoice or MSRP and what should my money factors be? I have nothing in writing, only told that my lease payment is as written above ($454/mo, 39 mo, 15K miles, $17200 residual and estimated $3800 to pay at signing). Am I getting ripped? If so, what info do I need to bring Monday before I sign to make sure I am hitting the right MF and not paying too much. My main concerns told to the salesman was that I pay $450+/- a month, prefer 36 months & have 15K miles a year. He is close, but maybe I need to negotiate more on the selling price or money factor? He said there is not much negotiation on the 2002. I do not want to pay more than is required down per the lease program info on the website. Thanks for helping me make one of the most expensive purchases of my life!

Christine

joshj

Christine,

I think I might be able to help you with a few of your questions as I've purchased a few Rover's in the past, most recently the Freelander and have asked similar questions. Land Rover is traditionally a one-price brand. So the haggling over the price is really a non-issue unless you are a repeat buyer and can realize a discount.

The rates and residuals are set by the lending institution so there is really nothing that your salesmen will be able to do for you there.

I'm sure they will share that information with you. But $450 a month sounds like a pretty good deal for a $35,000 to $40,000 vehicle.

Welcome to the family.

oceandweller

I finally have some news of snow!!! The gods must have been listening!!! Of course I have to work today, but I will be on the trails tomorrow....

The disclaimer: The snow had just hit the ground, barely and inch and my piece of $%^& British beast..the supposed best four by four by far, made love to the curb last night!! NO control, parts falling off, forcing me to invest in mechanic school so I can use blow torches and get a discount for the $%^&y British parts I'll need just to keep her on the road!!!! Oh lord Lucas hear my plea!!!

ocean

serpico1

i have posted before and thanks for your insights..but i am still nervous about buying a landrover disco 2001..it is pricey and i have saved up for a while, so i want to get my moneys worth..all i hear is problems of leaks, leaks, blown gaskets..i would be in the hospital with depression if 3 months in i had leaks, and problems..i am also looking at infinity QX4 and isuzu trooper, both have great reputaions for longetivity and problem free ..

help ..i love the disco but am scared..please add detailed real life experiences..best regards..eric

tincup47

As nice a vehicle as the Discovery is, it is not a Toyota. There has been a definite improvement in the quality of the Discovery, and it will continue to improve, but if you want an appliance ownership experience that requires nothing other than gas and oil changes then you should look elsewhere. Most Land Rover owners are passionately in love with their vehicles, but it is the whole ownership experience, both good and bad that inspires this passion. It's kind of like the vacations we take where something goes wrong being the most memorable ones.

nanuq

I took the Scouts winter camping this weekend, and of all the 4WDs that ventured out there, only one (guess who?) was willing to break trail. The others opted to hang back and see if it was doable. So away we went, until we could go no further. And wouldn't you know it, Lord Lucas of the North STRUCK when I least expected it!!!

That lousy piece of British tin... I couldn't see because my headlights failed to illuminate the trail!!!!! Of course there was an inch of snow packed over them and into the grille but still...

And then to top it all off, when I finally lost forward momentum, MY DOORS WOULDN'T OPEN!!! And that had NOTHING to do with the snow being 1/4 of the way up my doors...

Lousy piece of tin... and on top of that, I had to suffer with that enormously stout hitch welded to the frame, making a MISERABLE rear recovery point. I bet there's another fleck of paint chipped off it now!

Oh the agony of ownership... please people, I beg of you... if you expect to (ab)use your truck like this, BY ALL MEANS look elsewhere! Do you know how big of a lake I had in my garage as the snow melted out from ON TOP OF the transfer case??

The horror... *shudder*!!!

rp_fencer

Part Number: RCD2HEAT Price $60 Land Rover Genuine

Did you know that your Discovery is prewired for heated seats? Even heating elements are already there. All you need is to connect the switches.

How do I install heated seats?

Actually, all leather Discovery Series II's, and most of the others, come with the heated seats by default. They're just not hooked up! So, "installing" them is as easy as installing two switches and a faceplate. Here's what you need.

A small Phillips screwdriver (preferably magnetic) and the following parts:

Component Land Rover Part # Approx. selling price
Left Heated Seat Switch YUG102430 USD 33.00
Right Heated Seat Switch YUG102440 USD 32.00
Heated Seat Switch Cover Plate BTR3655LNF USD 10.00

Using the above items, do the following eight steps.

With the vehicle turned off, pry off the rectangular plastic plate that surrounds the window switches by inserting a small flat tool, or your fingernail, and carefully pulling it up. Remove it evenly from each side as four 1/2" plastic spears keep it centered and attached. You must be careful not to break them off.
Using the screwdriver, remove the four small screws that hold the black switch plate into the console. A magnetic driver will aid you in not losing these small screws. Remember which four holes they were in!
Pry up the switch plate, which you'll notice has holes for the heated seat switches. Insert the appropriate switches in the two holes.
Find the two unattached plugs in the wiring under the plate that match the switches. In theory, Green goes to Left and White goes to Right, but this is, after all, Land Rover. Plug in both switches.
Start the vehicle and engage the Left switch. Ensure that the left seat warms accordingly. This may take up to four minutes. Repeat for the Right side. If the opposite seat heats up, reverse the plugs after turning the vehicle off.
Reinstall switch plate with four screws.
Install new switch cover plate that is orificed for the heated seat switches, window switches, and rear window lock switch. Ensure that the four retaining spears accurately and evenly engage their ports. Ensure that neither the rubber skid guard or emergency brake boot are pinched behind the plate.
Drive around with a warm posterior!

You can buy the kit at roverconnection.com for $60.00

tidester

Thanks for the great tip, rp_fencer!

tidester
Host
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nanuq

And all this time I've been freezing my bum? Does this work for the DI as well?? I guess I'll peek in beneath the seats and see if they've got wires running down from the underside!!

Nice tip! This ranks up there with resetting your own Service Engine light!!! I suggest you post this over on the other big BBS and get credit for it!!

http://catalog.roversnorth.com/wwwboard/w3bbrr.html

Congrats on the catch! -Bob

rp_fencer

I haven't tried it actually just saw the info at roverconnection.com where I always buy my DII accessories and just want to share it with you guys.

nanuq

Well if you don't mind, I'll post it over on the other BBS and spread the word! Good catch.

cwiginton

I just received the kit from Rover Connection this past week and had heated seats in about 5 minutes. Very easy install and they are a vast improvement over cold seats.

Well worth the $60.

jake3895

My 2002 Disco II has 2800 miles. When should I change the oil and what is the best oil and filter to use? Should I stay with original LR parts? The manual recommends 7500 as first servicing but I've always tried to change oil every 3000 miles. Is this a good policy with the Disco?

rkoesler

This is for you, "serpico1".

My 2000 DII at 24,000 miles has been the most trouble free vehicle out of 32 I've owned. That includes 4 Toyotas, 7 Mercedes', 3 BMW's, and a number of "American Junk". The only other trouble free vehicle I've had was a 2000 Toy 4Runner, but it was ultimately boring!! Go for the Disco and get what you want. I had waited 5 years to get one because of their reputation, but now I trust it completely. Good Luck !

rkoesler

"jake3895", I would recommend to change oil at 1000, 3750, 7500, and then every 3750 thereafter. I use 10W-40 Castrol with LR filters (or Bosch if I can find them). I would NOT wait 7500 miles - just look at how nasty the oil is by 3750 miles. Mercedes and BMW's new "system" that allows you to drive up to 20,000 miles before changes, is to me ludicrous. I always change them at 4000 no matter what the car computer tells me. I change my Toyota 4x4 truck V6 every 3000 miles and it is good as new at 205,000 miles with no oil use.

nanuq

Good advice! Especially the first oil change, I'd do it at 500 and then 1500 if it was my choice.

A good rule of thumb for oil, don't use oil with a "spread" of over 30 points, eg: 10-40 or 0-30. Anything more than that is accomplished via lots of polymers. Oil lubricates, polymers don't.

I really like WIX filters, and avoid Fram. I use the WIX 51515, it's the replacement for the Fram PH8A long-body, it's got a nice quality anti-drainback valve built in. The Napa Gold and Purolator Premium filters are good too.

Cheers, -Bob

expert1

Well, Lord Lucas finally struck my virgin DII. 12,000+ miles and:
1. Hit a bump the radio quit.
2. Two recalls on the 2000 DII- transmission breather hose and thermostat check.
3. Speed control pulsation- engine computer software upgrade.
4. Road noise on drivers side. (Scott says they have flimsy doors on the DIIs'.)
5. All wipers shot. (lousy British rubber. Like the hoses on my old MG)
I sure hope that Scott and I don't become too good of friends.

Serpico1: Buy a Trooper only if you will own it forever. The resale, and the fact that the parts cost will kill you, drove me away. Any dealer that will drop $10,000 off the MSRP without a blink is suspect. Look in the paper and you will see 2 year old Troopers at 1/2 their new selling price.

nanuq

When I bought my truck let's just say it had "teething problems". *grin* I have a stack of receipts an inch thick, all done under warranty. To his credit, Wallace was ALWAYS a gentleman and bent over backward to make me happy.

The other day I went down there again. I had a reason (busted offside headlight) but I thought I'd just see what Wallace's reaction would be. I hung around the showroom until he came in from the garage, and the effect was visible: he faltered a moment and I SWEAR he had a tic in his right eye. However, upon composing himself he greeted me pleasantly with "Good morning sir, how can I help you?" I laughed and told him that this time it was only for parts. He smiled (was he biting the inside of his cheek??) and we went to the parts counter.

Yes, you could say I had some teething problems. BUT, Wallace and the mechanics bent so far over backward for me that I've never turned back. They did things to my truck from the TSB list just to prevent them happening later, and I always had a spanking new Disco as a loaner... and a washed truck when it was time to pick it up again.

Did I *HATE MY TRUCK* for a year? Absolutely. Would I buy anything else now? Never.

Wallace, Kent and Lyle at Rover Anchorage, this pint's for you.

expert1

My first experience was not so smooth. I was told that they needed my truck for only a hour and a half to replace the radio and do the recall items. The other items needed more time, reprogramming the engine computer and road noise diagnosis, so I decided to wait. Bad decision on my part. Three hours later Scott came to me with a sheepish grim on his face and stated that the recall items were done, but the radio couldn't be done at this time. (LR makes two different radios for this rig and I have the one that they don't stock) Also, they needed 20 more minutes to wash my car. Already being late for my trip with the family to SF I grabbed my rig and dashed home. What a brow beating I got, being gone 3 1/2 hours and the rig was the same as it left. (trip cancelled) Oh well, it can only get better, I hope. I learned that Rovers need time to be repaired correctly and Scott learned that LR supplies two different radios in the DIIs.

Tincup: Scott also searched the LR factory site and stated that there are no reports of soft brakes or repair bulletins that address your ABS bleeding procedure to firm up the pedal. Any insight into this is appreciated. I would like to tell Scott this when the radio comes in and I have my other warranty repair items addressed.

THANKS

tincup47

Next time you have it in, have Scott to get the Tech to call the Technical helpline for advise on your problem. Using testbook to power bleed the brakes is a standard procedure and not covered by a TIB.

wasko

Ok, I've gotta have a word with my dealer on the heated seats thing. I received Ford X Plan pricing on my DII when I bought it in August and it had everything I wanted except heated leather seats. It ended up being a fiasco to get them in.

1. I ordered the LR wood trim kit. It was tooled for the square heated seat switches.
2. Dealer charged me $400 to install 'aftermarket' heated seats. These had round switches.
3. They had to return the wood trim piece with square switch holes and I waited 1.5 months for the wood trim piece with no holes.
4. They then scheduled a service appt, took my rover for a day, and carefully drilled round holes in the new trim piece.

In the end, I was less than satisfied with round switches that don't match the rest of the vehicle and that aren't backlight.

If you're telling me that I got fleeced out of $340 (ok, maybe $300 with 1/2 hour for them to install the wood AND the stock switches), then I need to have a word with those folks at LR Bellevue! Then again, getting nearly 10% off on the vehicle wasn't too bad.

Hmm, I've been thinking bullbar, rear ladder, roof rack. A $340 genuine parts discount may make things right again

Thx, wasko

wasko

Nanuq:

After talking about your intimate relationship with your service manager and your 1" stack of service records, I got a nostalgic feeling and pulled out the file folder on my '96 DI. What a trip!

Here are some stats for everyone - see if you can beat them
* I owned the vehicle for 30 months. During that time, I made 27 trips to the dealer.
* Before I bought the vehicle, there were 13 service trips noted on the VIN lookup fax
* My 27 trips generated a total of 36 pages of service notes
* Average ADDITIONAL cost of owning the DI over the ownership period: $122.34/mo. (Only two of the 27 trips were for service intervals, the rest were problems)

Like we all have said, these dang Rovers leak like sieves, rattle down the road, are expensive as he!! to drive, and parts randomly fall off them. They don't start on command, don't drive in the direction you tell them to, and leave you stranded in scary places far away from people in the blackest of nights! (LLD by wasko)

I'm happy to report that when compared to the '96, the '01 only leaks half as much, rattles much less, has only dropped a few parts, and a vision of Lord Lucas only appeared once from the vents on a dark night

ROTFLMAO, wasko

hinari

This question's probably been killed previously but I'd appreciate if you guys would answer..

My dealer told me that 87 octane would work fine for my DII even though it specifies premium. Given the Buick V8, it made sense to me and I've been using 87 for 3 years. I just noticed that the truck 'knocks & pings' going slightly uphill w/ the engine cold. Should I switch?

By the way, these have been 3 of the most HELLISH years of scraping unspeakable tonnage of dead insect carnage off the windshield I've ever known; I've already all but left the damn TIN-CAN for dead, after having, in a blind frenzy of teutonic envy lusting after the beautiful form of the Mercedes MLs and the BMW X5s, done the Germans one better buy buying a DaimlerChrylser minivan (looks just like the ML, feels more CARLIKE than the X5!)

tincup47

Stay with the premium fuel. The vehicle will lose performance on 87 octane, as it uses a knock sensor which sinals the engine ECU to to retard the engine timing when it senses pinging. If you are still getting pinging, you are in danger of damaging the engine if it continues. That "Buick" engine is making more power, has been bored and stroked from its original confuguration, and is pulling a lot more weight than it was initially designed for.

nanuq

Tincup's right. The ECUs on these beasties "learn" from their environment. When they sense pinging and retard your timing, you're losing power. Which means you step on the gas harder... which means you burn more fuel, which winds up costing about the same as simply using the good stuff.

FWIW, I switch back and forth between Chevron and Texaco (the best two brands here) to take advantage of both their blends of fuel system scrubbers.

An interesting aside, if you drive around in '3' most of the time, the ECU will also learn what you're doing and compensate. You'll get lots better performance, and your mileage will remain about the same.

Yep this is a Buick engine, but it's been nicely breathed-upon and they run like scalded cats.

Hmmmmm, four paragraphs. What sort of LLD will it take to undo that many accolades? I don't think there's a Disclaimer powerful enough to undo THAT! Let me try: This pathetic, quivering piece of British trash is simply horrifying in its wanton abuse of the landscape! Why just last weekend, I left GREASE from my axles and swivel balls in the snow! Not to mention the gouges in the ice from my rocker panels as I plowed thru 3' of snow, breaking trail for the Fords and Chevys that came along. To top it off, that lousy, demented piece of crusted aluminum wouldn't even open its DOORS once I got stopped. And it's a good thing I had a recovery line attached to the rear when I did... CAN YOU IMAGINE having to go out the back door to get out of a Rover in the snow??? THE HORROR OF IT ALL!!

Una inuq aaniqtuuq, -Bob

tnhhudson

I follow this thread as I truely like the looks of your Discos. I've yet to take the plunge and confront Lord Lucas myself. I did drive one for the first time yesterday. It was not quite what I had envisioned but not bad.
Until I join the your proud ranks I'll just have to read with envy.
As I close a LLD does not seem appropriate and certainly my Land Cruiser requires no such foolishness. ;-)

tnhhudson

sorry about the last post, it had to be done.
here is my situation:
I'm looking at a 97 Disco with 77k for $13.7k. I'm fairly handy when armed with a shop manual and a torque wrench, so conducting maintenance doesn't concern me. My issue is that I am in the military and can't be sure where I will be in relation to a dealer. Don't take this the wrong way but are the typical high maintenance parts only available through dealers or could I go to Napa or something the like? Additionally, is there alot on the vehicles that can only be fixed with fancy tools available only at the dealers?

My intent was to wait until I retire and stabilize to get a Disco. However, as stated in the previous post, I drove one yesterday and the ride was so exceptionally horrible it is now hard to restrain myself. Not to mention the fact that I've had it with my TLC, can you believe I had to change a bulb on it yesterday.

stever

What, you don't buy Tesoro? Since your favorite gas stations have merged into ChevronTexaco Corp., I wonder if one blend will go away.

(toast one for Sourdough Mike for me, btw).

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

nanuq

I'll tell you one thing, the availability of Spam and Duct Tape will go way up in this town. Good old Mike, he's sure leaving an empty spot.

Tesoro? Nahhhhh, the stuff is half water! Besides the Texaco up at Boniface/Debarr has a deal going on where 8 gallons of gas buys you a free car wash. Do that every couple of weeks, and your truck stays recognizable until spring! No more of "Gee, which grey lump out there in the parking lot is mine???"

BTW, I polished Scooter up a little last night, and had a tall pint for Charlie.

expert1

I have been using the mid-grade from ARCO and the preminum from COSTCO for the last 13K and cannot tell the dofference in performance. Both are not at the 92 recommended octane rating. Went up to Tahoe this weekend and look out Durango and Explorer. No competition on the grades.

nanuq

I've found that premium fuel really has a major benefit when you're working your truck HARD. Some of my favorite places have some hard climbs, the kind where you get to the top and smell red-hot metal (don't look at your cats if you don't want a fright). In these situations the engine pings a LOT less when you've got a belly full of the good stuff.

About those cats: try not to park in anything flammable when you reach the top!

I managed to tear the roof racks clear off the top of my DI... and I need one crossbar. It's the square one (cross section), with dual retractable pins on either end. Anyone want to sell one of their original three? Anyone? Apparently they're not made anymore, I can't get one here! Anyone want to trade some Copper River Red salmon for a crossbar?? (that oughta do it)

Signed, Rackless in Alaska

expert1

I can't imagine any harder that the Grapevine, fully loaded with five adults and gear. Maybe towing a 7700# trailer could of topped it off.

kbowen

CNN reported that the following contributions were made by the named auto manufacturers to the WTC relief effort:
1. Ford-1 million to Red Cross matching employee contributions plus 10 Excursions to the FDNY;
2.GM-Same money as Ford plus fleet of vans, trucks and suvs;
3.Daimler Chrysler-10 million
4.Harley Davidson-1 million plus 30 new motorcycles to the PDNY;
5.VW-2 million fund;
6.Hyundai-300K to Red Cross;

Now it gets interesting:

7.Audi-Zip
8.BMW-nada
9.Daewoo-nothing
10.Fiat-Zero
11.Honda-naught
12.Isuzu-none
13.Mitsubishi-nil
14.Nissan-squat
15.Porsche-Zilch
16.Subaru-diddley
17.Suzuki-scratch
18.Toyota-nix

There is no mention of Land Rover. I'm asking tincup if he knows. The posting speaks for itself.

stever

That's one of those fake emails that are making the rounds, and there's no truth to it. Here's one link.

Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards

kbowen

Well, I checked the link and there is still a lot of truth as to many of the companies listed, but still no mention of what LR did, if anything. Any info on that.

stever

I disagree - Snopes hasn't updated that page for a while, and I think the entire email is horsehockey.

Steve
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