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Land Rover Discovery and Discovery II



  • srthom13srthom13 Posts: 5
    I purchased the LE new in April 2001. Upon delievery it had 18 miles on the odometer. From the very first start up I noticed a slight audible knock. This knock(s) lasted approximately 1-2 seconds and contained about 5-7 knocks. Figuring the vehicle was new along with the delivery hipe I did not pay too much attention to it. However, 2 years and 20000 miles later the knock(s) are still present. These knock(s) are most audible and last the longest when the engine is initially started up in the morning. During the colder months the noise and duration are more severe. If the engine is warm and re-started within 10-15 minutes the knock(s) are usually not present. I have recieved the following responses from the two LR dealers in my area; (1) it is normal,(2)ABS re-setting -- these are knocks not clicks, (3) wrong oil, (4) wrong oil filter, (5) wrong gas and (6) valve train --- most probable. As of this date the vehicle has been left at the dealer for days at a time to verify the noise. Both dealers have acknowledged the presence of the knock(s)and they have changed the oil,oil filter and gas but the knock(s) are still present.I believe there is a "lazy lifter(s)" involved that needs a few extra seconds to pump up.My concerns are; (1) what happens after the warranty and this problem gets bigger,(2)why doesn't LR repair a minor problem now opposed to a major one later, (3) will this problem be covered after the warranty, (4) why won't LR fix the problem now -- are they taking a gamble that the engine will last without doing the repair,(6) If I am not happy listening to the knocks why does't LR repair it,(7) is this problem unusual or normal,(8) should I be concerned and persue a remedy. It is obvious that there is a definite metal to metal contact taking place and the volume and duration is getting louder and longer. Although the duration is short 1-2 seconds I know it can only get worse not better. Performance and everything else seem to be normal. Tincup47 could you please find out the build date -- SALTH12461A720225. Thanks , Steve
  • stopgostopgo Posts: 16

    I got my 03 Disco HSE in October 02, I have 12K miles on her and not a problem so far. I researched alot before buying LR and came to the conclusion that while there may be some issues with them (LR), all cars are going to have some problems. And, if you look back at the Disco track record you'll find that Discos of model year 2000 and later have far fewer repair issues than do the 99 and earlier models. I owned a Toyota 4Runner for 10 years prior t the Disco and it had tons of problems throughout it's life with me. I don't think the Disco could be any worse.

    Good luck,

  • CasterCaster Posts: 6
    I am so glad to hear about your positive experiences, Dave, and it has confirmed exactly what I expected LR would do with models later than '00. I goin' for it within the next two months. I'll let you know when I get behind the wheel head offroad.

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    It was built on 02-15-01
  • srthom13srthom13 Posts: 5
    Thank you. srthom13
  • jamesa30jamesa30 Posts: 3
    Talk about fun to drive. Lots of low-end power and it corners great and I didn't get the ACE.

    A couple of things though,
     1 - When I am coasting to stop, either the front axle or the center differential makes a whining noise. I don't remember hearing that on the test vehicle, has anyone else experienced this? Is it normal?

     2-Do the lo-beams seem like they are aimed too low to anyone else? Can they be pointed higher? High-beams work great.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yeah, mine does that too when I don't feed her Premium fuel. *wink*

    What you're hearing comes from the transfer case. Land-Rover is one of the only, if not THE only, 4WD manufacturers that uses a gear-driven transfer case. It makes the case immensely strong but you hear geartrain whine for awhile. It occurs as the teeth in the case mesh together and get acquainted. Trailing throttle has the backsides of the teeth meshing so they'll whine longer (more months) than the leading edge do, which wear together under throttle and thus wear into perfect mesh sooner.

    My '96 has gotten over it in the last couple years but I kind of miss it now.

    For what it's worth, Rover uses German ZF transmissions, transfer cases and power steering parts. ZF transmissions are also used by THE highest-end Mercedes and such, and are very durable. I was recently at an oil change shop chatting with my buddy the owner, and a guy came in with a Disco. It had 65k miles on it and had NEVER had a transfer case fluid change. We sort of shuddered to imagine the carnage inside (no filters) but when the lube came out it still smelled good and was surprisingly clean. Almost no sludge and it was still translucent. Unbelievable.

    This is what you're getting with a Land-Rover. They put their dollars into the parts that MATTER, like the drivetrain. If you maintain it and keep the lubes fresh, it will last as long as you want it to.

    Best regards, -Bob
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    My '96 has the regular headlights, non-projector style, and I've noticed a wide "gap" between low and high beams too.

    To accomodate I aim the low beams higher (simple adjustment under the hood) and then drive at night to see if the highs are low enough to be useable. I had mine too high so I fudged them up and down until I got them "good enough." Still, much of their pattern was a bit too high so I went to stronger bulbs, 90w/100w Osram, and now I'm burning the hide off of moose at 300 yards. But I'm awfully careful using my high beams... they're truly dangerous now. And illegal.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    You are correct about ZF supplying the transmissions, but they do not supply the transfer box. It is a Land Rover manufactured item.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Is that true of only newer trucks, or has it always been that way? Holy smokes, you learn something new every day. Thanks!
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    All Discoverys use the same basic box, there are enough differences between Series I and Series II to make them non-interchangeable but they are basically the same design. They used the same basic box in the Defender and pre-1989 Range Rovers. Range Rover's from 1989 through 2002 use a Borg-Warner designed box with an integral viscous coupling. 2003 Range Rover uses a Borg Warner design also but it uses a torsen diff instaed of the viscous coupling.
  • jamesa30jamesa30 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response.

    The more I drive the Discovery, the more I like it. I've had quite a few different vehicles and driven more than just that from Ford to Chevy to Volvo to Hummer H2, and this is by far the most fun to drive for me.

  • sculls84sculls84 Posts: 1
    I just sold my Ford Escort and my parents are getting me a new car. At my local car dealership (which we trust, suprisingly) they are selling 2 Discos a 96 and a 97. Both are SE7s. The 96 has approx. 80,000 miles and is in excellent condition and the 97 has approx. 100,000 and is in good condition. We worked out that they are both the same price. I like the looks of the 96 better, but is there any mechanical difference? And with Discos is less miles better than a year newer? I love the looks of the Disco, but is it going to empty my bank account with repairs?
    Thanks for any input/suggestions -Pete
  • suvinlasuvinla Posts: 24
    Do all late 90s era Discovery models lurch ever so slightly from 0 to 'more than 0'? I test drove an otherwise quite nice one tonight, and the little lurch feels like it may be more related to the massive weight of the vehicle rather than something bad per se. It's more a characteristic than a 'flaw'... at least, would like to make sure...
  • I own a 2000 Discovery and am looking for a bike rack to hold at least 2 but up to 4 bikes. I prefer a hitch mount. I was talking to a dealer about a SARIS and they do not show the Discovery in the fit chart. Also with the rear-mounted spare are there issues to be aware of? As far as features -- ability to swing out of way would be nice but open to any and all ideas. I don't want the roof version due to the height. Anyone able to tell me what works. Thanks.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Lurching from a stop: there may be excessive play in the driveline. Some call it "klonk" if it gets bad enough to be noticeable. Some Discos up to about '96 I believe also had a screwy connection from the aft end of the trailing driveshaft to the diff, instead of a Hookes joint. It was rubber or something. Climbing beneath the truck and giving the driveshafts some good hard twisting ought to reveal any play down there. I wouldn't be worried about a "little" play, as there is a noticeable amount... but there shouldn't be a lot. Pay extra attention to the joint I mentioned at the rear diff. Look it over carefully for cracks if it's a '96. These trucks do have play in the driveline and you learn to accomodate it: gently apply the throttle to take up slack before you squeeze her very hard. Mine has never got any looser over a 5 year period.

    Bike racks: I have the Rhode Gear hitch receiver rack and it easily holds 4 mtn bikes. I had to take the plastic "biscuit" off my spare tire so it wouldn't rub but now all is well. It swings away by removing a pin. I rarely use the rack, preferring instead to take off the front tires and throw the bikes and the gear inside the back. It's safer that way and two mtn bikes fit easily.

  • thank you for the info on the Rhode Gear bike rack Interesting in that yakima when i called them told me that i probably have a problem using one of their racks because of tire etc. i will have to look for the one you suggest. I will probably also check with my dealer if LR offers one as well-- probably overpriced though. Agin thanks.
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Land Rover does offer a bike rack for the Discovery. It is P/N LRNAPBR4. The basic rack holds 4 bikes. It is a swing away unit, but it is pricey. It is also very sturdy.
  • suvinlasuvinla Posts: 24
    Nanuq, thank you for the pointers!
  • cribbscribbs Posts: 2
    Hello! I've been reading these posts for a while now and you guys helped me decide to purchase my first LR (99 Disco II). I love it! Hoping someone can help me locate a part. My left hand horn button on the steering wheel is broken - just the black plastic piece with the picture of a horn. Called dealership and they only sell the whole kit which costs $120! If no one can help, I thought about just gluing the piece back on. Any suggestions?
  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The covers for the horn button are not sold separately, they are part of the switch assembly part number QTN100270. Pricing may vary by dealership.
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Yikes! Did the original owner have a BAD case of suppressed road rage or what?!

    Seriously, I'd glue it or look in a wrecking yard.

    If you need to make a glued joint really strong, put a bunch of superglue on the seam and press the parts together. Then when it oozes out sprinkle some baking soda on the wet glue. It absorbs the superglue and sets up like concrete. You can build up shoulders around posts and things this way.
  • cribbscribbs Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for the advice! Now I know where to come when I have questions or problems. You guys are great.
  • kimobonnkimobonn Posts: 8
    Hello All,

    I have had my 2002 DII for 4 months, and I still love it. I still look forward to flying back home, and leaving the airport in my DII... This past weekend, I gave my DII a very needed cleaning (sometimes I really hate snow). When all was done, I noticed little spots around the vehicle. There were some on the roof, and on the side panels. It looks like rust. (little orange color dots). Anybody know what this is? NOTE: My DII is white in color. Also, I seems to have a "big" problem with my brakes. They seem to work fine, but I am going crazy with the squeaks.... My truck only has 19k on it, so I better not have to replace them already. The dealer said he does not think they need to be replaced, just that some glazing has occurred, and there is not much they can do. He suggests I find an empty road, and slam on the brakes a couple of times. I did this, and the problem went away for a day or too, and then the squeaks were right back. Anybody have any suggestions?

    Kimo B.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    It sounds like "rail dust" - little spots of surface rust. Try getting a "clay bar" from the car wax section for around ten bucks and use that. I bet you'll be happy with the result.

    Read the directions on the box at the store - you'll need some spray on "lube" to use with it. Basically you spritz some fluid on the car and gently rub the clay bar around. The bar picks up surface contaminates.

    Steve, Host
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    I believe the roof is steel on your truck, but the remaining body panels should all be aluminum.

    Take a magnet to it and see if it will stick where the spots are. If it won't stick, then it's aluminum and you've got rust specks on top of the paint.

    It used to happen to the sailboat all the time when the fishing boats would park beside it and chip their hulls.

    As for the brakes, you have hard compound sintered steel pads. I'd drive the hell out of them and replace with nice soft pads (wagner or lockheed) and save the rotors.
  • jamesa30jamesa30 Posts: 3
    What's the largest size tire I can put on the 16 inch rims without voiding the warranty and such? Is 265/70-16 OK?

  • suvinlasuvinla Posts: 24
    I'm contemplating a '94 Discovery with about 80,000 miles. Does anyone have a bet about *usual* maintenance needed around that mileage, or the realistic outlook for major repairs, and costs, over the next 40k miles or so?

    (I realize this can vary quite greatly, but would appreciate at least anecdotal experiences. One thing that did scare me a bit was that over on the Range Rover board, someone mentioned buying a Range Rover with a year or few months left on the warranty, and $6k in repairs occurring in that time. FWIW, he says he's thrilled with the vehicle, now over that pricey pothole.)
  • suvinlasuvinla Posts: 24
    Do they clearly show mileage above 100k (or 200k for that matter)... or like some cars does 100k show up as "00"?
  • nanuqnanuq Posts: 765
    Jamesa30, take a look at where they have a tire sizing description for what fits and what requires cutting.

    SuvinLA, I just turned over 80k miles on my '96 and she has absolutely *nothing* wrong with her. She drives nearly as well as new, except my tie rod ends (ball joints) are slightly loose. Other than that she uses no oil, doesn't drip, has tons of power, and everything works as new. She even still smells good inside.

    Over the next year I may have to replace the muffler/exhaust (but she sounds deep and rumbly now) and who knows when the alternator will go south? Dang I shouldn't have said that. Rats. But at this point, with a blindfold I couldn't tell her from a new truck.
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