Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems

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  • 70chyss70chyss Member Posts: 2
    heater fan will not run unless wired direct, ive tried fuses and breakers no luck why does the radio have power but no sound and all at once it comes on plays fine untill you shut car off is this on same system thanks BARRY MORGAN
  • tiger62tiger62 Member Posts: 1
    My Town Car brake light switch has been replaced twice. Currently, there is no voltage present at either terminal of the brake light switch. The switch is good. I replaced one 30 amp fuse under the hood, but no luck. Is there perhaps an in-line fuse somewhere?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Check fuses under the dash. Good Luck.
  • scott_essexscott_essex Member Posts: 2
    hi, I have a 2001 towncar it was all running fine :confuse: turned it of and now it wont start and it has no dash lights or turn signals. have replaced startor motor and steel nothing ?? wont even crank over, the only lights that come on on the cluster is battery light and break waring light. the battery is also fully charged. can anyone help or has any one else had this problem ?????? :confuse: :confuse:
  • cyberprcyberpr Member Posts: 2
    does it have an alarm system? if not check the fuses in the car both under the hood and under the dash on the drivers side.
  • dawdxdawdx Member Posts: 1
    Lost my owners manual and need a schematic for fuse box on 98 town car
  • duke281108duke281108 Member Posts: 2
    Alright here it is guys I hope someone can help.

    2001 TC Exec. Last winter car would not hold idle. That problem vanished this Spring.
    Now The car thinks that the door is ajar and the interior light will not go off(I have to pull the fuse). I had the latch replace under the advice of my garage, but no dice. Now they want me to let them replace the lighting module. They say it is going to cost about a grand and I am a little worried that it is still going to be something else.
    Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
    By the way, I do not have any wipers any more?
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    I do not support "mechanic training" using trial by error methods.

    Suggest you seek an automotive electrical shop that specializes in diagnosing problems like yours. You need a specialist, not a general practioner.

    I would not be surprised to learn the center of your problem has to do with your wipers not working and interior lights being on. There are fuses under the dash and circut breakers under the hood that could be involved, but only the specialist who knows by training and experience will solve the problem. Good Luck to you.
  • parjacparjac Member Posts: 1
    I have this annoying beeping caused by erratic engine temperature gauge. Replaced
    engine coolant and air intake sensors. still does it but a little less frequent.
    God Bless
    Parjac
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 175
    You may have an faulty engine temperature sensor or the wire connector to the temperature sensor may need cleaning and securely reconnected.
  • edl1283edl1283 Member Posts: 1
    When I remove the ignition key from my 99 Town Exec, the seat retracts for maximum room, which is normal. The trouble seems that when the seat is supposed to stop (by the stop switch/travel switch?) the seat tries to go further back and a sound like gears slipping make a (machine gun) sound for about 2 to 3 seconds then stops. When I position the seat a little forward and bring it all the way back I get the same sound. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • rboyokrboyok Member Posts: 2
    Question did you ever find out what was wrong with it mine has the same problem.
  • rboyokrboyok Member Posts: 2
    i have a 96 town witch was driving fine i came home and when i went back to start it it wouldnt start i replaced the started and it still wont start the brake and battery light both came on before it wouldnt starty any sugjestions on wat it might be.
  • cardsnappercardsnapper Member Posts: 7
    Hi all! I'm a newbie who is DESPARATE!! Have a beautiful '03 Cartier that is sitting (not running) in the drive way because no one can seem to fix it. Been to the dealer at least 6 times!! Here's the deal---car went thru a sandstorm in the desert. Front clip had to be repainted, windshield and head lights had to be replaced. All done at the dealership. Ever since, when headlights are turned on, interior lights go crazy, almost like surging (instrument cluster, radio lights, dome lights, everything!). If the air-conditioner or heater is on, they surge also. Then, eventually, the car won't start at all. Like the battery is completely dead, yet it can't be jump started either! Had it towed to the dealer 3 times! They get in it, it starts right up! They say they can't duplicate the problem, yet when we get it home........right back to square one!!! The headlights are the xenon headlights, and it always seems to start with turning them on. The car stalled one time, at night, when blinker was turned on. Any suggestions??? HELP!!
  • envirodocenvirodoc Member Posts: 1
    My 2001 towncar wont start! Did you locate the problem? - Matthew
  • kline2kline2 Member Posts: 4
    98 town car drivers side front window will go down but not up. After playing with it I found out that if I open the door about 10 inches the window will go up. All of the other windows work fine. Could it be in the cable cluster that goes to the door from the body? How do I remove the door panel to investigate?
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    hi i have replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder my panic button doesn't work on my transmitters key pad wont light up and battery dies from time to time every now and then when you lock the doors with transmitter anti theft light will come on noticed when you open drivers door sometimes key in switch wont ding weird
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Punctuation would be appreciated.
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    Sorry about no punctuation
  • Cartier92Cartier92 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, I have a 1992 Cartier that has been loosing functionalilty for a while now. The gas flap, power seats, power wing mirror, cigarette lighter, and power door locks have all failed. It is not a fuse issue. Does anyone know if there is a single part that could effect all of these parts. I have searched older messages with no luck.

    Thank you!
  • Cartier92Cartier92 Member Posts: 2
    How did you find out the error code? My air bag light blinks too and I have no idea how to fix it.

    Thanks
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    sounds like the drivers door module
  • cardsnappercardsnapper Member Posts: 7
    2003 Town car won't start. does nothing, no clicking, whirring, absolutely nothing! Here's what all I've done......New battery, new ignition switch, new park/neutral safety switch, new starter.......still nothing!! going to pick up starter relay in the morning. What else is left???????
  • nwraaanwraaa Member Posts: 175
    Have you checked the alarm system?
  • cardsnappercardsnapper Member Posts: 7
    checked the alarm?

    Got in the manual and read how to see if alarm is functioning properly (by watching the actions of the red flashing light on dash) and it is blinking when its supposed to and staying solid when it's supposed to. That's all i know to check on it?
  • tatianatatiana Member Posts: 1
    town car 99 time to time red light go on massage center . starts OK What it is ??????
  • ChariotLimoChariotLimo Member Posts: 2
  • ChariotLimoChariotLimo Member Posts: 2
    '99 Lincoln Town Car Krystal Limo - Power Locks are not working on all the doors. I did check the fuses under the dash - all fuses seemed ok. I heard it could be a modulator - not sure what or where that is. I am not exactly sure what to look for.

    Your help would be very appreciated

    Ray
    [email protected]
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I have a 95 Lincoln Town car. The Master cylinder is leaking slightly at the front area under a rubber seal ( Like a dust cover) a there is a large nut behind it. I do not know what this area is, maybe an adjusting screw? I asssume there is a seal in this area that hopefully can be changed without removing the master Cylinder. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem and what can be done to fix it?

    Thank you

    RV
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I have a 95 Lincoln Town car. My brake light is on, telling me that the Brake Res. is low. Fill it back up and the light goes out. The Master cylinder is leaking slightly at the front area under a rubber dust cover, there is a large nut behind it. I do not know what this area is, maybe an adjusting screw? I asssume there is a seal in this area that hopefully can be changed without removing the master Cylinder. Can anyone tell me if they have had this problem and what can be done to fix it?

    Thank you

    RV
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Has anyone else had this? The car is a garage queen, my mother bought it after totaling out her 01 grand marquis. She drives her 95 GM unless the weather is nice. What happened was, she bought a Garmin GPS and had it plugged in for a week, then the battery on the car went bye bye. I charged it for a day, but the charge indicator was red. I left it alone for a few weeks until I found the batteries in my F350 were nearly dead from sitting and charged them up, so while I had the charger out, I decided to charge the TC again, 4 days later the charge indicator turned green again and has been since.

    Basically a device that doesnt use my power drained the battery, but it took 4 days to recharge it, which doesn't seem right. Does the TC use a lot of power while turned off? I know the 95 GM can drain the battery when off because the auto suspension is constantly on, but does the '07 suspension also stay on all the time? I had a 92 crown vic with the air system and that only came on with the key on.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    If using a "trickle charger" it would take about four days to fully charge a battery.

    Recommend you use a Fast 10 Amp charger on the TC so as to beat the constant rate of discharge caused by various electrical powered accessories.

    The automatic leveling compressor on our TC doesn't need the ignition "ON" to work. Sometimes it just self starts for no obvious reason.

    Because we don't drive the TC frequently, I charge the battery with a 10 Amp fast charge every two weeks.

    My 66 Mustang goes a month between chargings due to no draining of the battery.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I did use a 10Amp charger, with a 30 amp 10 minute boost to start off. @ 10Amps it charged both batteries in my F350 Diesel in 4 hours from being so low it barely made the buzzer squawk when I put the key in. I have a trickle charger I use for my horse trailer Ebrake, I can probably set that up to keep the battery topped off since it sits. As long as I know others have had this, I wont be concerned about the battery going dead, why it took 4 days to charge, :confuse:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    If a battery is left discharged for an extended period, it could become sulfated and will not accept a normal charge.

    Desulfation could take up to 10 hours.
  • beast02beast02 Member Posts: 1
    Ok, so here's the story. The car is a 1992. Just got it a few weeks ago. It already had some electrical issues (the locks click click click unless the lights are on, & there are other clicking noises when the car is on). Anyway, today we tried to install a radio. We plugged everything in and the radio powered up, but there was no sound. We jiggled some wires in the trunk and the radio it self was also jostled while the radio was sitting in the front seat. The wire connections did not have electrical tape on them.

    There was a zzzzz sound. Now, the radio doesn't power up, the clock doesn't come on and the windows wont roll up. All the fuses have been checked. A mechanic checked under the hood and said the light for the power window relay switch did not light up. We replaced the relay switch, but nothing happened.

    Any ideas? Is there anything we can do temporarily to get the windows to roll up?
  • zaya417zaya417 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem I couldn't tell you what to do to fix the whole problem but go have an electrical diagnosis done but if you just want to get your windows up take the door panels off there rather easy like 4 screws and a few clips that will come loose w/o damaging them then you will see the window motor and 2 wires hooked up to it strip the wires and hook a 12V battery up to it depending if you want it to go up or down you will have to reverse the polarity
  • ashtabulaohashtabulaoh Member Posts: 3
    twice this week: 95 TownCar won't start. cranks and cranks but no fire. wait three to five minutes (calling for a ride) turn key and it starts like nothing was ever wrong. Here's the thing: The ignition switch feels loosey-goosey and if you don't turn it back all the way you can pull the key out and cylinder will still turn and you can start the car with no key. *** My feeling is that this starting problem might be related to the ignition cylinder and the security system. The car is a beauty, never in salt, not abused, and runs perfectly otherwise. WHAT I'D REALLY LIKE IS TO SIMPLY DISABLE THE SECURITY SYSTEM ALTOGETHER TO AVOID ANY FURTHER PROBLEMS AND HELP TO DIAGNOSE the starting problem. Is there any way I can do that? I really hate to start spending $76/hour to chase the problem as I have been to three Ford garages this week and nobody has any clue what might be wrong. And I'd really rather do it myself anyway. I trust me. Any help you may be able to give would be greatly appreciated.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    I have been to three Ford garages this week and nobody has any clue what might be wrong. And I'd really rather do it myself anyway.

    3 Ford techs don't have a clue & you want to fix it yourself?

    Something besides the ignition switch is " loosey- goosey" so take it to an independent shop for a fix.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I am not sure if the 95 MY had the integrated key/ignition system security. If your ignition key is a plain key, no big plastic end on it, and can be duplicated from an off the shelf blank, then you don't have the integrated system. If that is the case, and you say you can turn the ignition without the key when it isn't in the lock position, you have either one or two problems, or both. First, since you can remove the key without being in the lock position, your cylinder is worn out, start by replacing it. You can do this by yourself, and may even be able to have the replacement cylinder keyed to match the existing keys. If that doesn't correct it, I think it will, but if it doesn't, then the next part involved is the actual ignition switch itself. This is mounted on the steering column, usually on the top and connected via a rod from the back of the ignition cylinder. Its possible the contacts are worn out where the start position is. With a worn cylinder, it is quite possible the rod isn't pushing down far enough to make contact.

    If you do have the RFID keys, fixing that will be difficult on your own without the diagnostic equipment, and disabling it will be near impossible without rewiring the car.

    In either case, replace the ignition cylinder, and you could very well fix the whole problem.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I have a leak at the front of my master cylinder. There is a nut located at the very tip and I do not know what it is for. That is where the fluid is leaking from.! Is it possible to remove this nut and reseal it? Has anybody ever had this area leak on them.

    Also what is a traction master cylinder vs a standard cylinder that these cars came with?

    thank you

    RV :
  • unclewipunclewip Member Posts: 3
    :mad: :confuse: I've been playing with this issue for the past week, with many suggestions on the cause, however still no good news !! .....When exiting vehicle while door is open, radio continues to play, key cmime sounds, windows will work...All without key in ignition. Battery dies within two days sitting, due to constant apparent draw...Tried ignition switch, checked all fuses, including motor compartment, swapped out LCM (lighting control module) with a friends 95', and also installed mine in his, however it worked fine in his!.....This is an extremely clean vehicle I have owned for the past 8 years, never experiencing any issues, how ever the "match is getting closer to ignite".Thanx for any new answers!!!!
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    The way this system works is the accessories stay powered up until you open a door. From what you are describing, it sound to me more like a door switch problem than anything else. Even if the cabin lights go on when you open the door, doesn't mean the module is getting the signal that you opened the door. I would have the circuitry checked from the doors.

    Another puzzlement, the acc on is timed, so it should turn off after so many minutes, and there is also a battery saver feature that prevents running down the battery. At least there is one in my F350, so I would assume Lincoln would have it too. Of course if the battery is weak, or never got a full 100% good charge, that feature is moot.

    I have a Camry Hybrid, if you have the ACC on and the radio going, after about an hour, it will shut off. The system in the Lincoln should do that as well with the key out.

    Check the door switch circuits, it sounds like that is where the problem lies.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Below my master clyinder is what is called a Pressure control valve. It has several brake lines to it as well as the cruise control disconnect switch. This valve also has an alum. fitting on the forward end of it that has a very small hole drilled into it to outside atmosphere. . The fitting has an "O" ring under the head as well as one on the inside of this fitting. There is also a spring inside that this fitting compresses when it is screwed in. I have brake fluid coming out the vent hole on the end. Nobody at Lincoln can help me.
    Hopefully somebody out there can tell me why this fitting is there and being that it is leaking out of the vent hole something must be wrong on the inside of it?

    Please help.

    Thank you

    Bob Hardisty
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    My mistake-- Its not the master cylinder its the pressure control valve under the master cylinder. There is a fitting that is leaking out of the vent hole that is drilled in the end!
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    I know which part you are talking about, we have a 95 Mercury of the same platform. There are 4 lines, two from the master, and two to the traction control/ABS pump. This is a proportioning valve to equalize front to rear pressures, and the tolerances are very tight, so they cant be rebuilt, only replaced. There are no repair kits for them, and don't even try to repair them, it could be fatal since the entire braking system runs through it. The vent is t prevent a vacuum lock on the diaphragm behind that nut, and from what you describe, the diaphragm has a hole in it. There is also a pressure warning switch, if you lose pressure on any line, whether front or rear, it will detect the pressure loss and throw a warning light on the dash. If you plan to replace this yourself, before you even pop the hood, make sure all your bleeders on the calipers are working, otherwise you will not be able to properly bleed the system for this to work correctly.

    Here is a cutaway Check with Napa, they may stock this, if not, then the dealer will have them.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    You are right on the money. You are the first to tell me exactly what it is . Yes I will not even attempt to fix this one. I think I have found one on a junk 95 Town car.. I don't see a problem changing out and I know I will have to bleed the brakes completely once I get done.

    Thank you very much my friend you have been a great help.

    Bob
  • vlm77vlm77 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, we had a similiar problem with our 95 TC. Took it to 2 mechanics and the dealer multiple tmes. Finally, at my husbands suggestion, mechanic replaced the body control module and the problem resolved. We picked up a used one for under $200. Good Luck!
  • ashtabulaohashtabulaoh Member Posts: 3
    Just posting this in case someone else has the same problem. Recently had intermittent no start when hot. (Also occasionally stall at a light) If the car had been running for a while then shut off, and tried to restart after 10-30 minutes or so, it would crank and crank but no start. After five minutes or so of waiting, it would start. (just about enough time to find someone to come get me and call the wrecker) I spent all summer with this problem until I got under the hood when it wouldn't go. I tapped on the box on left side inner fender, and it immediately started. Replaced the "EEC Control Relay" (price: $11.00 ) and it has started for the last month with not a hiccup. It is a simple to replace plug. Took about 30 seconds to do. Just open the plastic box, pull the plug out and replace it. That simple. Just like a fuse. This problem seriously drove me nuts for literally three months! And I was told by at least 2 mechanics that I should have started by replacing the fuel pump! Glad I didn't listen, cuz now my silver bullet is running like it looks. Damn good. Hope I can save someone a lot of headache.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Same problem once & was a hot day after pulling the boat up a grade.

    My solution was to place a plastic bag of ice on that little black box and within 30 seconds, it started. The beer wasn't as cold that day, but the engine started.
  • hdehde Member Posts: 9
    I have a 1994 TC. The front window motor makes noise like it is working , but window will not roll up or down. I took off door panel and plunger sems to work as does the motor, any ideas here. thanks
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