Lincoln Town Car Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    i had the same problem with my t/c it turned out to be my digital clock that stopped working unplugged the clock my dead battery problem went away
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    hey chevy, which problem were you referring to? my T/C's digital clock stopped working also and im wondering if that has something to do with my issue. totally wierd thing is that when its really humid, or even raining, everything will start working again! LOL the digital clock, the door chime doesnt stay ringing at me when i turn her off and open the door. i hope this thing doesnt snow ball on me, funny my kids and wife already know that if we're going in 'daddy's car' then we better take the jumper cables JUST IN CASE. hope one of you guys can help me out, i'd really hate to take it to the STEALership.
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    edited March 2010
    nevermind chevy, im stuck on dumb over here, duh maybe i should look at the bold letters more often! i'll try that and see what happens, thanks. also read on another site a mechanic suggest removing the #6 fuse, in his opinion 'you could live without it' but when i hit the owners manual for the most part it does seem to provide for non essential things like compass,clock,phone etc... but the first damn thing on there is the radio! i've recently unplugged my radio thinking it was the culprit since i would sit in the car while it was quiet and could hear a 'crackle' coming from the speakers, so VOILA right?! theres my problem. nope. so not only am i jumping the car, but its dead quiet on my rides, and im tried of talking to myself! LOL so im hoping the disconnecting the clock thing works so i can get my tunes back.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Don't know if my last Post got on??? I don't see it! I have a 95 Town Car and I can not shut off the radio. I push the off button and nothing happens. the Vol portion works fine., That is how I shut the radio off, , lower the vol. Anyvbody ever have this problem?

    Thank you for any help.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Yep, it may be the same problem our 95 Grand Marquis has, the latch for the on/off on the button broke, so unless you hold the button down, the radio is always on. I don't know if they share the same radio between makes, it is possible that far back that they did.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I only have a push button on the left side of the radio that is for the vol and the on/off control. All that is required is to push in the dial to turn off the radio. now as far as alatch being broken, unless its inside the radio itself where the push button contacts it, I do not have such a latch.

    Thanks for your reply.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    it is inside the radio. You probably never noticed that when you powered off the radio the button sat back just a little bit when powered off, or popped up a little bit when turned on.

    Does the radio look sort of like this one? 95 radio
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Refer to your Owners Manual as it describes what to do to reset the automatic door lock feature.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Yep thats it. $82.00 for one on E Bay------------ no thanks, I'll just turn the vol down. LOL Changing out that radio could be a bear to do!

    I do appreciate your responding and giving me this info.

    Thasnk you

    Bob
  • awilloughbyawilloughby Member Posts: 10
    Bob, I had this problem on my 95 TC. I sent it off to Southern Electronics, and they fixed it. The radio is very easy to remove. The four small holes in the radio at the sides are the key to the latch. Just push four stiff wires into these holes at the same time, and pull the radio out!! Unplug the two wire connectors and you're done. You may be able to get it repaired locally. Good luck.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Now that sounds like a do able situation. I will absolutely try that removal. Thank you very much. This is the reason why I like Edmunds car space-- You get some great replys and experiences that others have had. Thank you very much for your help,

    Bob-- Southlake, Texas
  • ryder5463ryder5463 Member Posts: 1
    When I start the car it makes the sound like the hazard lights are on but they are not. Also, somestimes when I use a turn signal the noise goes away. Furthermore, the digital clock, a/c heater stops working and the digital displays flashes off and on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Your GEM is bad. It is located under the dash on the drivers side and contains all the relays for the lights, turn signals, and wipers, as well as controlling the dash lights and other electrical devices. Pull it out and look for the part number on it, then call your local junk yards to see if they have one from a 95 Crown Vic, Grand Marquis, or Town Car, they may all be interchangeable. It is known as the Generic Electronics Module. Once you locate it, start the car while holding it, or have your hand on it, you should feel the relays clicking. You cant replace the relays they are soldered in place.
  • stinkylinkystinkylinky Member Posts: 8
    edited March 2010
    chevy you the man!! unhooking the nonworking clock stopped the battery from draining, stopped the exit chime from 'ding ding dinging' when i turned off the car, and when i hit the alarm the lights come on prior to entry. GREAT!! im real happy, thanks alot!!
  • chevy88chevy88 Member Posts: 10
    thanks i,m glad i could help but cant take all the credit there was a poster on here that was having the same problem he spent a bunch trying things and dealers and turned out to be the clock also must be a common problem
  • villapendvillapend Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 TC this car has auto dimming intirior lights when i close the door the lights dim half way but never turn off! this problem remains while driving and even when the car is off. what can i do??
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    My 95 Lincoln Town car has the check Engine light on all the time. I have been told to put a piece of black tape over the light on the dash and forget it. What I would really like to do is deactivate the light. Is there a way or a wire I can disconnect to put this light out without affecting anything in the system that could lead into a serious problem. I would appreciate any assistance in this matter. Thank you
  • rolltop49rolltop49 Member Posts: 1
    I am having all sorts of electrical problems with the interior dash lights (all out) and the window on the driver's side keeps wearing out switches. I have replace everything inside the door-computer- window motor & regulator and now it will not work again.
    Does anone have a glue-I'm reafdy to send this thing to the farm.
    Thanks,
    Rolltop1949
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Our 94 TC has a CEL go on & off & there is nothing different about the quality of engine performance either way. I understand it is related to the emission system that makes sure you are compliant with the enviornmentalist cult.

    When you consider how much pollution the Iceland vocano has produced recently & the effects it has had on the travel & shipping industry why worry about what your engine might be doing to your local area?

    Drive it. ;)
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I am not concerned with the reason Iam just wanting to put the light out. I cannot get the car inspected as long as the light is on.
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Go to your local auto parts store and have them check the codes. There should be at least one code stored. They should be able to narrow down where the problem is, maybe you will get lucky and find it just needs a new gas cap.

    As for the other poster, sure that volcano spewed out 750 tons of ash a second, but it is still good to have clean emissions closer to the ground where it can leach into our water tables. I forget what chemical they used to use in gas in CA, but it proved to do more harm than good when it was found in the water supply. The difference between the two is vast, the ash cloud is high up in the atmosphere and will get dispersed over a very large area, with not as great an impact as what one might think, OTOH, when you have thousands of cars spewing exhaust fumes less than 1 foot above the ground, the fumes tend to stay there and not disperse as easily, so the cleaner they are, the better off we will all breath. Of course if you like dirty exhaust fumes I can alway s bring my F350 diesel around with its 5" exhaust pipe and lay down a few smoke clouds for you if it will make you feel better. :shades:
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Being located within 35 air miles of Mt. St. Helens, we know the spewed contents of the eruptions fall to the ground causing all kinds of problems not created by diesel exhaust. The first three letters in your fuel say it all.
  • awilloughbyawilloughby Member Posts: 10
    edited April 2010
    The chemical additive added to gasoline in California that you are thinking of is MBTE. You are right. It caused lots of problems here when it migrated into the ground water. We are still dealing with the aftermath. That mistake does not obviate the need to do everything possible to clean up automobile exhaust. That "check engine light" problem should be solved, not unplugged. It's on for a reason; something is not functioning correctly, and will eventually need to be fixed. Why not now?
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Well lets see. My ck eng.light is on. I had it diagnoise and it is the EGR vl that is supposed'ly clogged up. I was given a $400.00 estimate to fix it , but with no guarantee that that would fix the problem. This car is rarely driven and I just want to get it inspected.. So I guess my best bet is to get in behind the light on the dash and cut the wire.

    The engine is running fine and I don't think I'm putting any damaging pollutants in the air. Yes the light problem should be solved

    I can appreciate the response to my question and why the Volcano in Ireland . and the MBTE additive was mentioned. Yes these lights were put in these cars for a reason, however back in the 1990's allot of guessing was going on and most emmision parts that were put on really caused more problems than they were worth. Something like the MBTE in Calif.

    I thank you for your time and response.

    RVH
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    When the CEL is on, consider it advisory, not mandatory, especially when otherwise the engine is running just fine. Our CEL goes on after driving 10 miles and then goes out for a few miles and back on again. I resent spending $$$ just for a minute quantity of air to be taken in by the illegal hitchhiker in the wake of my exhaust. :P
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    My seminents exactly

    \ Thank you :)
  • townman2002townman2002 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    Make this brief, my wife came home today ,the seat was stuck in her position she is 4"8 anyway i checked the fuse it was blown .Went to advanced got fuse first checked relays and connections ,Put the fuse in and nothing no noise nothing just stuck dead seat .If you have any ideas pleae chime in .Ant ideas would be of great help Thanks This is a 2002 town car
  • awilloughbyawilloughby Member Posts: 10
    You didn't say whether you have a memory seat. You need to check the relay for the power seat, as well as the fuse for the memory switch. Also, check the fuse for the trans selector, as the trans selector signals the memory switch whether the car is in Park or Neutral. The seat memory will not work if the car is in any drive range. If the memory seat module, located under the driver's seat, is not powered up and functioning, even the regular power seat switch will not work. Try the passanger seat power seat switch. If it, too, is not working, then the power to the power seats os out.
  • elliottcowandelliottcowand Member Posts: 1
    The dome and cabin lights on my neighbors' 2000 Lincoln Town car will not shut off.
    Dash warning indicates door ajar, but multi door slams do nothing to resolve the situation. "Push Interior" on the headlight knob will also not fix it. Suggestions please.
    [email protected]
  • mkbeth2mkbeth2 Member Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the same issue. Where is the ECC relay located.

    Thanks,
    mkbeth2
  • mkbeth2mkbeth2 Member Posts: 2
  • lincoln10lincoln10 Member Posts: 1
    my 03 lincoln town car while driving the dash board lights start flashing, tempreture gage drops and speed indicator also drops any idea?
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Getting into my car this AM i turned on the key and my drivers door window dropped appro 1/4" I had no idea why . I departed and as I was driving the window started to go down in 1/2" segments. By the time I got to work the window was all the way down. Pushing on the window switch was no help. I still can't get the window up
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    I have now taken the drivers door panel off and I have found that there is a cable that is just hanging inside. I'm not familiar with how this cable;e is routed but I can see a plastic housing that has a pathway for the up and ther down cable to go into. If I hold the cable and hit the switch the cable will go up to the plastic housing and tighten up. So the motor is fine, the switch is fine. It to be in this retract and deployment housing? Like maybe its come off its track or something.

    I have no idea how this housing comes out. I hope I haven't confused e=everybody and that someone knows exactly what I'm talking about and lead me accordingly.

    Thank you for any help.

    RV
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    You need to replace the widow regulator. To do so requires removing the glass from the door. You will need a drill, a center punch and a hammer. A regulator costs about $35, and is not too hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined. This is common on the panther bodies, Ive replaced all 4 already in our 95 Grand Marquis. The hardest part is aligning the glass back in so it goes up and down smoothly, or it will bind up the new regulator.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Thank you sir for your reply on the regulator replacement. I have a drill, a center punch and a hammer & Iam mechanically inclined. I'm sure I can buy the regulator from a Lincoln dealer and the $35.00 is real cheap.
    Now all I need to know is what do I center punch and drill out to get the regulator out? Also how does the glass come out of the channels?

    Your response is greatly appreciated.

    RV
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Member Posts: 3,425
    Would you hve to remove the window if it could be taped in the UP position with masking tape?
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    Yes you have to remove the window as it is in the way of the two ntop bolts on the track from going to the O?B side to drop the track.

    Just note on what direction you get the window out. It should come out after you drill out the rivets to the window by raising the aft end and coming out with the front part of the window first, You have to reverse your procedure going back in. Put the rear in first and then the front. I will have a complete removal and installation on my experience with this regulator. Its not just a drill, a hammer and a center puinch beelieve me. I just completed my removal and installation and I now know.

    RV
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    edited July 2010
    To attempt this replacement requires some mechanical ability. Removal of the inner door panel requires an upholstery "V" shaped tool to snap out the sides and bottom fasteners. The door handle cover plate has to be prided out from the front end.There will be a lug with a pressed on nut that has to come off before you can move this cover out of the way when removing the panel.. The door closer strap has a plastic end piece at both ends. Pry off with a screw driver and there will be two phillips head screws to take out. then remove the strap. Remove the phillips head screw at the top front of the panel. Using the "V" upholstery tool start to remove the panel gently starting at the front and working down and around the bottom and up the rear side. Be sure you get the tool inserted over the fastener that is holding the panel to the inner door. Check to make sure there is nothing else holding the panel to the door. Pull out on the bottom and push up to get the panel out of the top retainer and assure the panel is out and away from the door handle that stays connected to the door itself. Once the panel is free from the door there are wiring connectors that need to be removed. The door electrical switch panel is attached to the door panel with two phillips screws. remove the screws and the switch panel is now clear. Remove the seat control wiring panel, it has a phillips screw holding it on as well. Unplug the seat memory switches You should now be able to remove the panel completely from the door.

    Now starts the hard part-

    Remove as much of the black panel deadening material as you can- it doesn't have to be completely removed but enough to gain access to the SEVEN rivets that have to be drilled out. ( YES 7) Once the deadner material is removed you will see the regulator track and cables. The track is vertical. At the top under some black tape there are two holes drilled out where there are two bolts holding on the track. Remove those nuts with a 7/16" deep socket and ratchet. ( note mark the bracket where the nuts are so you can reinstall and tighten the nuts at the same place when you put in the new regulator) Get a piece of 1/4" plywood 9 1/2'" long X 4" wide and cut a 1/2" deep slot in its center on one end.. Put this piece of wood in the large opening at the aft end of the door panel under the glass window. This wood piece will hold the window glass at the proper height where you can remove the rivets attaching the glass to the track. using a punch and a hammer tap out the center inserts of all 7 rivets, with these inserts removed you will now be able to insert your drill bit into each rivet and start drilling them out completely. Remove the two holding the glass first. The aft rivet is easy to do as its out where you can see it, the forward one you have to go through an aligning hole that should be lined up with your wood piece installed. With these two rivets drilled out you should now be able to remove the glass. Forward end up and out first.. Now you have 5 rivets to go- two at the bottom of the track and three where the regulator is attached to the inner door panel.once these 5 rivets are drilled out you should now be able to remove the regulator assembly. With the glass removed completely you will be able to push the two top track studs out of the top bracket and the track should now fall down where you can remove it.

    With the regulator on the bench you will see where the black plastic housing holding the cable is attached to the motor assy. There are 3 torque headed screws that you have to remove to get the motor assy away from the regulator. Now at this time pay particular attention to how this motor assy is removed, as the plate that is riveted to the glass is part of this build up & will fall free and it has to go on the new regulator the same way it was on the old one.

    You are now ready to reinstall the regulator back in the door. You have to have 7 1/4" bolts approx 1/2" long, with lock washers, flat washers and nuts. These will replace the rivets you drilled out previously.

    Install the regulator assy back inside the door and insert the upper two studs into the upper bracket, put on the nuts and align on the marks you put there on removal. but do not tighten. Now put in two of the 1/4" bolts at the bottom of the track, just snug them up. Then put in three 1/4" bolts into the regulator housing and tighten these bolts to proper tightness.

    Remove the long rubber seal from the slot where the glass slides down into , this will provide more room for the glass to go into the door. Reinsert the Glass, use care as this is glass and can be broken. Do not force. Start with the rear of the glass in first and once the glass is in the door bring it down to your piece of wood.
    Now on my installation I had to lower the glass retainer down to line up with the holes in the glass bracket. Your electrical switch will operate , just turn on the key and operate the switch. Note - remember that this window has an auto open so keep your hands clear. Operating the switch you will get the hang of it and see where you have to go to align the two holes for the glass. Install the last two 1/4" bolts and tighten to proper torque. Reinstall the long rubber seal at the top of the door panel.

    Now the glass alignment. - operate the window and watch how the window travels , you do not want the window to drag as this puts undue strain on the regulator. Moving the upper two attach bolts to the right or left as they are slotted and also the bottom two bolts until you get a free smooth run on the window. Tighten the bolts top and bottom Operate a few more times to be sure you are satisfied with the operation.

    Now put the black deadner back in place and then the door panel back on. You are now back in business with a job well done.

    Door Regulator $119.00, I got it for $88.00 plus Tax at my Ford Dealer.
    P/N F3VY-5423209*A
    M/Hrs---------6 hours
    Ford wanted $477.00 including the part.
    .
  • brooksdesignbrooksdesign Member Posts: 1
    98 LTC (175,000 mi ) the radiator fan runs in both low and high speed cooling the engine with the AC when the outside temperature is 80ºf or lower. I have noticed that once the outside temperature increases to 90º or higher (Texas Summer) the fan works for a while and will then stop causing the engine temperature to climb to the red zone. I've tried turning off the AC to reduce the load, but that's no help. Relay appears to work for both the high and low speeds. The fan gets power. Not sure what else it could be.

    Ground issue that is effected by outside temp?
    Faulty Engine Temperature Control sensor?
    Is it possibly the fan?
    I'm puzzled. Thanks in advance for any ideas.
  • acmetntacmetnt Member Posts: 2
    Hello - I have same issue. I have had 03 TC in dealership for 3 months. Starter, battery, wiring harness all replaced to no avail. I am now bringing car home. They said we cannot fix. Prob is they are on a fishing expedition at over $100 per hour. I cant afford to write a blank check to keep going. I have a friend that may get into it for much less. We are going to start w/ the security system. When I turn on the blinker, all the dash lights start to blink and gauges drop like yours. When I hit the button on my key chain to lock doors, the horn no longer sounds, thats why I am looking at the security sys. Also I have that same friend that had a similar issue on his car, and he found the short in the same system. If you have discovered any thing since this posting please help me out and I will do the same.
  • acmetntacmetnt Member Posts: 2
    I have a 03 TC thats been in dealership for 90 days w/o resolution. When turning on turn signal, all dash lights (all) begin to blink. Including all the idiot lights and the traction control lights that you would see when turning the key forward prior to starting. If on highway, not only do they blink, the cruise control will shut off. Once I turn off the blinker, I can reset the cruise, and all the lights go back to normal or off position. The problem had worsened and when I shut of the car, it would not re start causing a tow to the dealer. Dealer has replaced battery, wiringing harness in front of radiator, the starter where all wiring goes through etc. They are at a loss even after 3 months. The prob is they are on a fishing expedition at $100 per hour or so. I cant continue to write a blank check for the process of elimination. I am bringing it home today. Any ideas where I should start to look now? Ever heard of anything like this?
  • onthefritzonthefritz Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 ltc the battery keeps going dead i replaced the battery it had a bad cell, and it still keeps going dead i now have a light on the passenger side under the dash board that keeps blinking does anyone know whats up with this?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    The Panthers, which include the Crown Vic, Grand Marquis and Town Car all use what is called a GEM to control all the lights and a few other functions in the car. General Electronics Module I believe it the full name of the unit. It costs a couple hundred to replace, and is difficult to troubleshoot at times. Both posts above could tie directly to the GEM. I have a 95 Grand Marquis that had lighting issues, and we had a 2000 GM that also had issues, both traced right to the GEM. You can get a spare one from the junkyard to test with, just make sure it is for the correct model year and accessories. If you have electronic display dash, you need to use the one for that type of dash, if you have an analog dash, you need that type of GEM, they wont intermix even if they are the same make, model, and year car. The GEM is located under the dash on the drivers side, and is about 1 /2" thick, 4" wide 6-8" long, black plastic housing. To locate it easily, turn on the hazards and listen for the relay clicking, you can feel the relay clicks when you touch the box. It usually has one connection on it, and unplugging it will disconnect all your dash, turn signals, etc. You will know you have the right unit when that happens. Over time the relays wear and start to stick, and that can cause the battery to drain. They can also short and cause all kinds of havoc with dash lights.

    I'll bet the dealer wants to charge a few hours in case they start out by swapping the GEM and blow the new one due to a short somewhere else, so they cover their butt on it.
  • shiftless2shiftless2 Member Posts: 2
    Was having a problem with battery going dead and radio coming on any time. Dealer disconnected radio and was running again. Left the car sitting in FL under oaks for several months with trickle charger on battery. Wouldn't start so got new battery. Would run only if poured gas in manually. Then key wouldn't turn ignition switch so auto locksmith removed and cleaned it out. Key moves again. Trailored it to 2 different mechanics. One tried replacing the fuel pump and the crankshaft sensor. One thinks it's the VAT system chip and has to do with the theftproof system. Tried to reprogram the module and mine worked in another Lincoln but shorted out as soon as put back in my car. He spent 2 days on it and says there's a short somewhere but wants me to junk the car. It's a 1998 but only 124000 miles and was running great before it sat so long. It does have a bad water leak soaking the passenger floor after rains. What do I do?
  • acdiiacdii Member Posts: 753
    Honestly, scrap it, it isn't worth the costs to repair. Seriously the car is worth more scrap than you can sell it for. Wiring issues like you describe take hours and can cost large sums, especially if you have to replace the dash harness, which is what this sounds like. With a water leak that you described, chances are the wire harness has corroded, and that right there is a very expensive repair, the harness alone, if it can be found, can cost up to $600, and several hundred more to replace it, not counting any other short harnesses that may be damaged.
    I learned a long time ago, never park a car outside for any length of time if you plan to keep it. I have a 1999 F350 Dually Diesel, parked it outside for a month, and now have to replace all the brake components, they seized up from the dampness, now I have it parked in the garage, with a trickle charger on the batteries, and a cover on it to keep the paint clean. I roll it out every so often to prevent flat spots on the tires.
  • g_lincolng_lincoln Member Posts: 1
    help help help!!!!! how do i close my sunroof without having the plastic button to my sunroof switch?
  • awilloughbyawilloughby Member Posts: 10
    If yours is a factory moonroof, there is an unholstered panel set into the headliner over the rear seat, behind the moonroof opening. Remove the panel. Remove the sliding roof motor. This will expose a splined crank, similar to the crank on a regular window regulator. Turn this crank shaft, and the roof panel will close. If it is only the switch which has broken, can't you remove the courtesy light housing, which contains the moonroof switch, and jump the wires at the switch to electrically close the panel? The switch on my moonroof has broken already. The dealer was able to supply a new one, at that time, but it was the wrong colour, though. It works just fine. I've since come accross one at the wrecking yard, which I bought as a spare, just in case the new one ever breaks.
  • mylincolnbestmylincolnbest Member Posts: 1
    hey did u ever get this problem fixed?? if so how did u correct it? im having the same issue and in the process nearly $$overhauled$$ my car trying to find this problem.
  • qsoqso Member Posts: 32
    On the 95 Town Car Can anybody tell me how to remove the dash where I can gain access to the back of the digital speedometer? Would appreciate any help.

    Thank you
    RV
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