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Ford Escape Brake Problems



  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    Funny that they said "all four rotors", when Escapes only have two rotors. The rear brakes are drum brakes, so only the front wheels have rotors..
    You should sue your dealeship in small claims court (I hope you got a written estimate on this, so you can take them to court).
    I am really surprised that more people don't take ignorant, crooked dealerships to court..
  • gbs1043gbs1043 Posts: 5
    I believe that your problem is called "ignorant service people"..It is quite common these day's. Both wheel bearings going bad at 43,000 miles would be almost impossible on that vehicle ( I have over 200,000 and have never replaced a bearing)..The issue, for most people,is finding competent service people who actually know how to diagnose a problem properly. Good luck with finding someone, because only one out of ten mechanics are any good...The remaining? Well, we called them 'butchers'!
  • At 68,000 miles, I lost my brakes this morning in my 2006 Ford Escape. The mechanic said one brake line broke and two more were leaking. (At 38,000 miles, I had to buy a new engine because the #6 piston fell apart in the engine and at 50,000 miles, I had to replace the Throttle Body because the gas pedal was sticking) After replacing the brake lines today, I hope there is nothing left to fall apart in this vehicle as I have had to replace everything else.
  • glennab1glennab1 Posts: 2
    My gas pedal has been "sticking" a few times.... it was the butterfly in the throttlebody..... some gumout carb cleaner took care of it.
  • mnovymnovy Posts: 1
    I took my car to be checked. They told me the problem is the wheel bearing on the front right tire. My concern is that I have to drive to Indianapolis on Sunday, what it'll be about two hours drive, and I don't want to get a bigger problem with the brakes. Is it safe for me to drive? And is it really what the problem could be? The light came on right after I had to change a flat right back tire about a month ago.
    Thank you.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Now, I could be wrong, but the wheel bearing shouldn't turn on the ABS light. Usually that is an indicator that the ABS module is failing. You'll still have normal brakes, but if you were to go into a skid, you would not get the modulation the car is programmed with to pull you out of the skid, you'd be on your own to do that. Usually not a crisis right away. If a wheel bearing is failing, you should get a noise and a grind from that wheel, not a light.
  • cgorecgore Posts: 1
    The ABS module gets all of its signals from the wheel speed sensor which just so happens to be mounted inside the wheel bearing on most all cars these days. That is how the ABS module knows which wheel is slipping or skidding. FYI
  • I noted a continual grunt just before stopping. Lemon Aid guide suggests its the brakes. I am thinking its to do with the suspension. Of course local ford dealer never heard of the problem. You would think for a $20,000 + piece of machinery, you would not have these problem. Parts sourced globally (read: cheap), BUT assembled with pride in Kansas.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    First of all, that's not a $20,000+ piece of machinery anymore, it's about a $6,000 car now, and probably acting like it. If you're driving a car old enough to vote, but you want it to perform as if it's brand new, you're not reasonable. No 6 year old car doesn't have some issues, that's not Ford's fault that it's old. And I agree, it's the brakes, not the suspension. Replace them. By the way, that's not Ford's problem either. If you have so little regard for the car, sell it, but good luck.
  • My 2010 4x4 Escape has the ABS "light on" problem reaccurring again occassionally. It now has 42K miles on it. Dealership claimed it stemmed from battery being low and replaced it last year and that really seemed to take care of the light coming on all the time problem. Hate to think I have to replace the battery every year to elimate an annoying light? Also hate to think that I may just think that's what the problem is when it's really something else. I live an an area that experiences adverse winter weather conditions and require a 4 wheel drive vehicle to even get in and out of my driveway in such. From other cars, including a Ford F150, I've owned, I am very familiar with what it feels like when the ABS actually engages and I have never, ever felt as if the ABS has really engaged on this vehicle even though I've seen that light on dozens and dozens of times.
    I also, still randomly encounter the no brake situation...where the pedal just seems totally hard with absolutely no give and, therefore, does not properly engage. For me, 99% of the time, this occurs when the engine is cold, and more so when the weather seems to be damp outside. I've learned to recognize the telltale sign of engine "shutter" when I put the vehicle in gear and know to immediately pump my brake pedal good to activate them before I back out of my garage in the morning. I can physically feel them finally "give" and know at that point I'm good to go. The Ford dealership has kept this vehicle for days at a time but claims to have never replicated that sensation. Course it might of helped if they had actually put it in gear and moved it more than 2/10 of a mile in all the days it was in their possession...
  • I love my 2008 Escape that has 4 wheel drive as needed. It's a 6 cylinder - NOT hybrid. It has 125,000 miles on it plus. The only problem I have had with it is a strange thing with the brakes. My daughter swears there has been something wrong with it since day one - you put the brakes on and the pedal goes down a bit before engaging. Ford says there is nothing wrong - two dealers, one in PA and one in AZ have told me that over the 4 years I've owned it. It is NOT the ABS engaging, by the way. I know what that is. Yesterday a.m. I went to stop from about 35 mph and the pedal went to the floor before engaging. I have new brakes on the front, and don't need new brakes on the back. I then turned into the gas station, and it did it again, but it did stop. I backed out to take the car home and exchange it for my husband's truck to drive to work, and the brakes were fine. They have been fine since then. I ended up driving it to work - 40 miles each way - no problems. I have no idea what to do with the darn thing. I will get it checked for a leak today, but other than that, what???
  • lostlost Posts: 64
    You need to check out the brake master cylinder, it can be leaking internally (meaning that fluid is escaping past the o rings). I would replace the master and do a good job of bleeding the system afterwards.
  • big company check social media sites..put your complaint on FB (zucher needs the money), Twitter, and [email protected] (contact at the bottom of the page)
  • I have a 2004 Ford Escape that recently blew both front brake flex lines within one month. Luckily, I was close to home and not on the freeway. I would guess poor quality parts or design.
  • Once had a '97 Contour SE where the ABS light would come on, especially if the ABS or the traction control had engaged 3 or 4 times over a short period of time in bad weather. Dealer said it was ultimately a terminal getting an intermittent short by rain/snow/slush splashing against it, and that after a few times, it would engage the ABS warning light - pulling over and restarting the car would turn off the light. They said that they fixed it by applying lithium grease to the terminal and re-capping it. Problem never recurred after that

    I'm not at all saying that this is your problem but when I read it I thought about intermittent events that might cause the ABS warning to engage...
  • Same year, same model, same problem. Thank God, the failure occurred when my daughter was just pulling out of the garage to go to work.
  • Mine is a 2004, owned since 2003-mileage of approximately 134k. Last night driving home from work, I was attempting to break quickly, as a car pulled out in front of me. My break pedal responded as normal for about the first 2-3 seconds, felt what seemed like a wheel lock up&then my pedal went completely to the floor, with no break response what-so-ever! I grabbed the emergency break&avoided the collision. Got to a parking lot&popped the hood. Reservoir full-couldn't identify any leaks. Limped the car home (5 minute drive). Reservoir was completely empty&fluid visible on inside right front tire. When I spoke to a mech. He said it shouldn't have happened that quickly&immediately...? Thank God it didn't happen 3 minutes earlier, or I'd have been on the freeway going 65MPH....WTH?
  • joe483joe483 Posts: 1
    2005 escape 125,000. miles stoped at gas station put fuel in, start, put foot on brake pedal to put in drive, all the way to floor--left front flex line blew, i checked right side line which was ready to go at same place, wow.
    I replaced both lines and am writing this only to worn anybody that has this vehicle to please check the lines, they are only less then 20.00 ea, ford seems unaware of this huge problem. march 25 2013
  • Same problem a 2005 Ford Escape, my daughter had a brake job at Sears less than 11 months ago and this week end her brakes completely failed while backing out of the garage. The passenger side brake line was deeply cracked in 4 place and would spurt fluid like a severed artery when applying the brake. Drivers side was deeply cracked in the exact same spots just not leaking, 'yet'. There is no way that the Sears mechanic did not see these cracks when they replaced the rotors. And Ford should be held liable for not fixing this problem -- that line is a critical safety component and should be made of at least braided steel hose.
  • ttoulattoula Posts: 1
    My 2003 Ford Escape, 90,000 miles, brakes normally until below 5 mph. Below this speed the ABS "chatters" twice before the vechile comes to a complete stop. This occurrs at low braking pressure and on dry pavement. When I remove the ABS 60 amp fuse from under the hood, the problem goes away, but of course I then have no ABS protection. Does anyone have a solution? TT
  • My wife's Escape has had the grinding sound since a few months of purchasing it new. We went to a local garage, they looked at the brakes and said they were OK. They lubricated the brake system and the noise stopped.

    Recently the noise started again, and was even worse. I would have bet the rivets were digging into the rotors. I went ahead and replaced the brake pads, although there was plenty of pad left behind. I lubricated the back of the brake pads with brake grease as well as the bolts that hold the caliper on.

    There is no longer any noise. Problem solved.
  • My wife was driving home today and her brake waring light came on, 2 or 3 more stops and the pedal hit the floor, but she made it home safety. The left front brake line Ford part number 6L8Z-2264-A had been rubbing against the power steering line for 106,000 miles and rubbed a hole in the brake line. Please check yours. Now here is the other problem , I called my Ford dealer to order a new line, National back order 18 to 20 day lead, I suspect mine is not the only one that this has happened to. So again please check yours.
  • gford5gford5 Posts: 1
    Driving my son's 2005 Ford Escape Hybrid with 64K miles on it, red brake warning light comes on as well as "service brake system" shows up in message center. Bought this vehicle used in May with 54k miles on it. Not a lick of problems with it until now ...
    took vehicle in to local garage - checked brakes over - no problems found
    but they did look up on internet that there are issues with 05 Ford hybrids - brake master cylinder and HCU need replacing at a high cost - anyone else have this issue ?
    are there technical service bulletins out for this problem?
    Does Ford do anything to help correct?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 137,716
    Does that model use braking to regenerate the battery? If it does, I'd assume that is a very complicated system that might have nothing to do with your pads/rotors...

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  • I had this same problem. I don't have the exact wording from my repair but they told me my front axle was cracked. Somehow the ABS brake system ties into the front axle and this was causing the "chatter". They only had to replace a portion of the front axle and now the problem is solved. Sometimes it seems like I didn't have all of my braking power. The ABS did something with the front axle which was broken and that's why it occurred. If you need me to, I can find the invoice and tell you the exact wording. Let me know on this post.
  • Hi Burbondog,

    My car (Mazda Tribute, same car as the Escape) started failing the exact same way as you describe:
    It breaks o.k. until lower speed (5...10mph), then it increasingly stutters.
    It breaks o.k., but it seems not to have full break power.
    Could you send me the exact wording and whatever would help to identify this problem?
    And how much did you pay for the repair?
    Thanks for your help !!
  • this is from the invoice: Checked and found left front ABS tone wheel cracked - replaced left front ABS tone wheel - $79. ABS Tone Wheel - $9.99, CV Boot Clamp $5.99.

    At the same time they checked and found the right and left front lower control arm rear bushing cracked and pulling away from control arms. Replaced right and left front lower control arm assemblies. $271.10. Did this contribute to the brake problem? I don't know.

    They also charged me a diagnosis fee of $118.50 to find these problems. I searched high and low on the internet to find a solution and I vowed if I did I would share it with everyone if it could help them. I bet I had this problem for about six months. It was a relief to have it fixed.
  • My abs light keeps coming on and off any help on why this is happening it doesn't make noise or anything
  • drejdrej Posts: 119

    @ttoula said:
    My 2003 Ford Escape, 90,000 miles, brakes normally until below 5 mph. Below this speed the ABS "chatters" twice before the vechile comes to a complete stop. This occurrs at low braking pressure and on dry pavement. When I remove the ABS 60 amp fuse from under the hood, the problem goes away, but of course I then have no ABS protection. Does anyone have a solution? TT

  • drejdrej Posts: 119

    on the 2003 Ford Escape, 90,000 miles and abs noise, i had this once at slow speeds "different car though" since the very rusty situation on the sensor to pick-up a the abs sensor caused this "not to mention the wheel bearing was going bad" compounding it and fooling the abs that the wheel was slipping. these wheel brgs have built in sensors. check it out.

  • xbrobotxxbrobotx Posts: 1

    i have a 2005 Ford Escape XLT v6 (non-hybrid) ~105k miles. I noticed a slight shutter in the front end when taking off form a stop. So slight that I figured it was from the snow or ice, living here in NY thats common, so I didn't think anything off it. Today when I went to stop the front passenger side brake line burst with no warning. My first slight stop was fine, I then had to stop again at a stop sign when i was traveling at about 20mph and thats when the line burst. After researching this it seems to be a common issue with this era Escape, not a common routine maintence requirement but from now on I will be sure to check.

  • Firstly you should check out the master cylinder for fluid level and add brake fluid if needed. May be such problem is happening because of not concerning these things. You should also check the brakes lines to find out any leakage.

  • a_fabs3a_fabs3 Posts: 1

    Report the issue to Ford. They create a case and submit it to NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Association). NHTSA seems to consider a recall based on the number of issues reported to them. If we don't report it to the right people, nothing will happen.
    I had same issues with cracked brake hoses on my 2003 Ford Escape. Mechanic told me the hoses are defective and Ford is just not doing anything about it. I can't imagine - what if my brakes suddenly failed and I slid into a busy intersection with my 3 year old daughter in the car?
    Please, speak up everyone.

  • m0582 said:

    I'm having the same problem with my 2002 Escape
    did the master cylinder fix your problem?

    I have put 2 master cylinders, front calipers, front flex lines, front pads and rotors, rear wheel cylinders and rear shoes and I'm STILL having this problem. tha car will have good brakes for a couple of weeks and then one day i go to stop and the pedal goes right to the floor just like i blew a line. i come home crack the bleeder screw on the left front caliper get some air out and i'm good to go for a couple more weeks. the funny part is the brake fluid never goes down. even when i loose the brakes the level is still right on full.

    if someone can help please send advice, before i drive this thing to the scrap yard!

    I have the same issue that I haven't been able to resolve. I have the EXACT problem. I've replaced everything and some things twice.

    Hopefully you have found a solution and the message reaches you.
  • I bought a 2014 Ford Escape last April for 33 k (cash) and 3 weeks ago the brakes went out while I was driving on the Freeway. The car has 25 k miles. The brake came up into a very high unnatural position and the brake pedal could not be pushed in so I had no brakes. I stopped using a steep meridian and the transmission. I had the car towed into the Ford dealership because it is under warranty. Then I was informed that there was no vacuum in the engine and the engine would have to be removed and taken apart, and that this caused the brake failure. Now my technician says that the engine will likely have to be replaced, and unless I can prove with documentation that I changed the oil, they will not cover the cost under the warranty, so basically I have no vehicle and the car is worth very little to me as I cannot afford at this time to replace the engine. Not to mention that I do not feel the car is safe for me and my son and I want to offload it ASAP so I can buy something else. The oil had turned to a sticky substance according to Ford, but the engine did not freeze up, it was running when I dropped it off at the shop. Also, it gets around 17 mpg which really sucks on top of the rest. Anyone have any thoughts on this? It seems inconceivable that a car this new could have this happen.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Well, did you change the oil and do you have proper documentation.? If you did not change the oil in 25 k, then you do not have much of a case.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 9,374
    Looking at the 2014 Ford Escape Features & Specs page, your 17 mpg seems significantly low. I always note my mileage performance as a way to tell the general health of my car. Was your mileage always that low? Did it drop of recently? To me, that low a number would be an indication that something was not right with the engine or some part of the drive train.

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  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Posts: 5,170
    edited November 2015
    PF_Flyer said:

    your 17 mpg seems significantly low. I always note my mileage performance as a way to tell the general health of my car.

    To me, that low a number would be an indication that something was not right with the engine or some part of the drive train.

    Just imagine what a lack of maintenance would do to todays sophisticated engines. From variable valve timing systems to turbocharger lubrication and cooling on top of the potential for basic engine failures the cost of repairing neglect is going to teach some painful lessons.

  • totomantotoman Posts: 3
    I have a 2014 Escape AWD. Has anyone had severe rear brake rotor grooving? I had them turned by the dealer at 4970 miles, replaced at 8300 miles after complaining that they should be covered by warranty, and now at 13000 miles, which the dealer replaced after I contacted the owner. The Service Writer said that it is has been a big problem since 2013, and that I'll be back in another 4000 miles. He claims that Ford rotors were not coated like many other manufacturer's products, and the road salt, etc. destroys them in quick order. Ford has come to their senses since it affects their truck line as well, and the last rotors installed are coated with some agent. The dealer owner says I am the only Escape customer complaining, and that brake components are only designed for 20,000 miles, which doesn't explain why I'm receiving only 4000 miles before they are so grooved I am concerned about brake pad life.
  • The brake problem with the pedal going to the floor happens because with an ABS system, the system needs to be PRESSURE or VACUUM BLED. You cant really do it the old manual way. Though, was told you can do it the manual way, by pumping the brakes hard 15-20 times to bleed, but this is unconfirmed. The bleeding procedure order goes RR, RF, LR, LF.
    So unless your mechanic has a pressure bleeder, then it wont work right. You can possibly rent this pressure bleeder from you local auto parts store. If not, they are roughly $150 (give or take, depending on how high of a grade of one you want) to buy one.
    Hope this helps yall's mystery problem! :smile:
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