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Acura Integra Engine Questions



  • Hi. I Own A 95 Integra LS that i just actually finished working on and finally got running. Well sort of running. I really need help to figure out what is wrong with my car now. The car idles to low and kinda rough. But when i drive it and as long as im giving the car gas or if its in gear it drives fine. But heres my problem. When i go to shift and push in the clutch, my rpms drop down to almost zero and the car wants to die. I have to give the car gas just to keep the rpms up and for the car not to die. Eventually though i cant catch them and the needle drops to zero and the car dies. If anyone knows or has any solution to my problem. I would appreciate all the help. Thx.
  • I have a 91 2 dr integra that I have blown the timing belt on I have the valve cover off and am in the process of changing it but I want to know if I have caused any catastrophic damage to my engine. Also how do I check the valves and the pistins for damage . And if damaged is the motor junk and I would be better off just finding another engine to put in it or can the head be rebuilt? thanks
  • I do not know what happened. I was driving home from school today and i came up to a stop light. So i pushed in the clutch about 100ft from the intersection. The car died. All the lights in the dash came on. This has happened before and i thought it was the heat of the day. i live in the desert. but it wasnt hot today. it would not start back up for about 10minutes. I had to push it. you cant bump start it and you cant turn it over. it just doesnt start. any help would be much appreciated. i do not know about cars or anything so try and explain as best as you can. thanks.
  • marksandmarksand Posts: 181
    aren't you guys forgetting about the fact that engine in '94-'01 Integra faces left, and the '02-'07 RSX's faces right? (where the belts and pulleys are) This sounds like an extremely messy change. As an aside, does anyone know how the design engineers ever made this choice, to change engine orientation? It can't have to do with RH and LH drive, since both cars were designed to be built both ways. I'm a Mechanical Engineer but it's beyond me why a car company would make this change.
  • ksgsksgs Posts: 1
    Hey guys, I need some help. Yesterday I was driving my 90 GS when without warning she died. First I tried to accelerate and there was no response so when I pulled th the shoulder the choked and will no longer start (still cranks tho).

    Any ideas of what could be wrong?
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Do you know which engine you have in your 91? I recently did my nephew's 90 hatchback with a B18A1 engine, and turned out when the belt snapped, he had bent a few valves but no damage to the pistons. As I'm not familiar with the 91 & which engines it might have, IF yours has the B18A1 engine, I can help you thru the process. As near as I can tell from the Haynes manual I've used (covers 90 thru 93 Integra and 91 thru 95 Legend), there were only two used in those model years, the B18A1 which is a 1.8L DOHC and the B17A1 VTEC, which is a 1.7L DOHC with variable valve timing & electronic control, which will have "VTEC" 'bossed'(raised lettering) right on the cam cover.

  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    As always in such a case, check to see whether or not you're getting spark at the plugs, then whether you've got fuel going to the rail, then whether or not your injectors are pulsing. What makes you think that it 'choked?'

  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    My nephews got a 90 hatchback with the B18A1 in it, which I'm afraid is toast, at least for the moment, so I've been searching for a decent replacement used one, with little luck (I'm told that some of these wreckers' books indicate that only the 90 or 91 will work in this particular application), but I'm thinking that being as this IS a HONDA engine after all, they've probably used this very same engine in other models of their own - ie: maybe Civic. Does anyone know for certain what other models/model years used this same engine? It would be of immeasurable help to me in finding one, by expanding my search parameters.

  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    This is probably way way too late to help Gary, but just new to this site. Am only familiar with a 90 hatchback, but engine ID position probably the same? About halfway down the block (from top deck to bottom, vertically), on the right side of the block (the side toward the front of the car, or the right side of the engine when viewed from the right side of the car towards the driver's side or from transaxle toward belts), only a few inches to the left of the exhaust manifold/heat shield, you should find a raised 'boss' facing slightly upward to make viewing from above easy. That boss measures about an inch and a half accross, left to right, and about a half an inch in height - clean it off and the engine code should be stamped right into the flat surface of the boss.

  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    Re kxiong87's post of July 21st, again, this is probably way, way too late to help, but I'd suggest your heater core's got a leak. If you can detect coolant on the front floor on psgr side, OR smell it in the air inside with the heater running and the engine warmed up, OR on a very cool day, the windshield fogs over inside when you put the heating system into 'defrost' mode or any combination of the above, your heater core has definitely got a leak.

    I don't know how fine the tubes are in that particular core, and I wouldn't normally recommend this to a Chryler owner, but try putting in about half the amount instructed on the bottle, of 'radiator stop leak'-type product, and see what happens after the engine has come up to operating temp a few times with the heater running.
    That is a hell of a lot easier than changing out that heater core, believe me! Also, if your temp guage is registering a little higher than was usual beofre this problem developed, its probably due to your coolant level being too low, which you can top up when you put in the stop-leak.

  • marksandmarksand Posts: 181
    one data point -- I am original owner of a 1997 GS-R B18C1, now at 160,000 miles. I have changed oil + filter regularly every 3750 miles (twice as often as scheduled), but used only ordinary name brand 5w30 oil. Still have virtually zero oil consumption. I tried one change with Mobil 1 0w-20 as a fuel economy experiment at 150,000 miles and then took it on a 7300 mile cross-country trip (WA to ME to SC and back to WA). Even with this watery oil, consumption was still barely noticeable (say, 1/3 qt on the the whole trip). I am expecting my engine to be pretty healthy still at 200,000 miles, although the rest of the car, especially electrical, is beginning to raise doubts.
  • My car won't turn over, it seems to me that it's not getting gas and that would be the fuel pump. it doesn't start no matter what temp. i just replaced the fuel filter 1,000 or so miles ago.
  • Ok i'm not sure if i posted this earlier my computer sucks. My 94 integra won't turn over it seems like it's not getting gas. the starter works and i have half a tank. i think it might the fuel pump not sure. it doesn't start at no matter the temp out or inside. won't bump start. thanks
  • sorry i just went out to my 94 integra and it started. The only difference is that the outside temp drop about 30 degrees from yesterday . so i don't know. i never heard of a car starting better when it's cold outside.the temp today is 47 .
  • ok the B18A1 was only used in the 90-95 integra non VTEC models but it dosn't end there from 90-91 the computer system that was used was OBD-0 from 92-95 the computer system was OBD-1 wich means that you would have to convert the wiring harnes to OBD-1 and get an OBD-1 computer or you can us all of the components from the engine you already have on the new engine.

    or if you want to go with VTEC you can get a JDM B16A that came in the JDM intega for like $1100-$1600 plus S&H and it will come with the engine, tranny, ECU (computer) wiring harnes, and all of the components plus you can get them in OBD-0

    B18A1 1.8L 130HP @ 6000RPM & 126 ft-lb @ 5000RPM redline @6500RPM
    B16A 1.6L 160HP @ 7600RPM & 111 ft-lb @ 7000RPM redline @8200RPM
  • On Jan 2 my 90 Integra LS would turn over but not start. Computer code was 13 (barometric pressure sensor). Outside temp. had risen to about 40f and was somewhat humid. Started fine later in the day and been running fine since. Feb 8 same scenario but code 43 (fuel delivery system) and today car started fine ran about 3 miles and died, same thing, code 43 (Temp about 42f and foggy with all the snow melt). Both new instances car started after waiting with the hood open for about 20 minutes. Any clues anybody? (Has about 227K and normally runs well)
  • i no one reason is now that the intake manifold is in the front now there is no heat from the exhuast the manifold is the first thing the air wood hit cooler air little more power
  • wat u mean is ur engine is cranking over but not starting cuz if ur engine didnt crank over it wood be ur starter like the other guy said check ur spark first
  • d_kem_16d_kem_16 Posts: 1
    does anyone know where to get an intake manifold for this head type, doin a head swap but the current IM does not match up cuz of the bolt pattern and gasket...... i've been looking for days now and need a hand. this head is pretty rare when you don't buy it as one unit, igot a steal on the head tho!!! :P
  • kirama1kirama1 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know which belts are which in the 92 Integra, and if they are easy to fix yourself? The belt that broke on mine broke while it was idling, and there is still a sliver of the belt still turning. Im afraid to risk driving it, so im not sure if it will drive. Its the lowest belt I can see, and its attached to three pulleys.
  • wavtamwavtam Posts: 1
    2001 with 100,000. Just recently I've notice that the car will start immediately, but will stall when I drive to the end of the street with stop sign. A little hard to start then. Once I reach normal operating temperature, no problems. Then pattern repeats daily. Your thoughts. WAVTAM
  • brettlbrettl Posts: 9
    I'd suggest that first thing to do, is to pull the codes off the ECM, and go from there. There's too many possible causes to even begin to think about, but if there are any codes stored in the OBD system, that'll start you at least in a particular direction.
  • I have a 94 Integra Ls. 174k. Recently it has been makeing a whinning sound kinda like gears grinding or a worn out bearing. it sounded like it was comeing from the distributer so i changed it. the sound is still there. its not so bad when i add thicker oil. what could it be......
  • duckyzduckyz Posts: 1
    In my 1992 acura integra LS I have replaced the radiator, thermostat and all the hoses, and still have a leak coming from where the top radiator hose comes hooks into the engine. Anyone have any ideas. Thanks
  • dwreillsdwreills Posts: 9
    Are you sure it's not a power steering pump noise? Sometimes they whine when low on fluid or they're on the way out. But if you're adding thicker oil and reducing the noise I'd look at cam bearings.
  • dwreillsdwreills Posts: 9
    If you've replaced "all" the hoses then check if the flared "pipe fittings" that the hoses fit over are clean. All the older Honda/Acura motors I've worked on develop a corrosion problem on these fittings that seems to be a combination of rust and crystalized antifreeze and it can be quite hard. Sometimes a hose won't seal around this formation because it grew in the old hose and the hose deformed to accomodate it. Hence no more flare. If you have this junk on your fittings, scrape, sand or file it clean and if your fitting is badly pitted after removing the junk smear some high temp silicone around the fitting before you slip the hose on. Sometimes the spring clamps are weak too and I've had to resort to American type screw clamps to get enough pressure to seal it. I also had one where the leak was from a split in a tiny intake manifold heating hose just below the upper rad hose that made it look like it was coming from the rad hose. Had the rad hose off three times before I realized where it really was coming from.
  • Hello

    1. all liquid levels are great
    2. believe starter works
    3. spark plugs are in great condition

    engine turns over but does not start; therefore, I believe fuel is not getting to the engine. Spark plugs are sparking and all else is well. Not sure what may be wrong, please any guidance is greatly appreciated. I am mechanically inclined and am an egineering student. Please respond via here or

    thanks for any help
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,962
    Try this... before you try to start the car, just turn the key to the ON position. You should hear the fuel pump running. If you do hear it, then try to start the car. If it starts after the "fuel pump trick" I'd wager the pressure regulator that keeps pressure in the fuel line (like overnight so there's fuel at the engine to start up in the morning) is leaking off that pressure.

    If you don't hear the fuel pump running (should sound sort of like an electric motor humming), then the fuel pump is likely the cause.

    If you hear the pump running and it still doesn't want to start, then you must be looking at either something preventing the fuel from getting to the engine or a spark issue.

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  • Does your "check engine" light stay on or off after turning ignition on?

    If it stays on its your grounds. This is an issue that I have not found very many Acura dealers or owners know about.

    If you have questions contact me at

    BTW I believe the fuel pump is under the rear passenger seat, drivers side.
  • wise7wise7 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Acura Integra LS with a 4 cylinder engine non Vtec. The car is a great car and I have not had any problem with it except recently it is overheating constantly. I have changed the thermostat a couple of times and the car still overheats. Any idea what could it be?

    Charles Wisniewski
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