I was wondering the same question. Mine (2002 DXL) is peeling around where the center console can holder is. Also it is peeling on top of the dash board in line with the center of the steering wheel underneth the "wood" trim. Will the dealer do anything about it?
I have a 2002 with 55k on it. Obviously I am out of factory warranty, I purchased the 5/100k at time of vehicle purchase. There are some minor things that I don't think are covered under this warranty, but wondering if I push enough if I can get them covered since the vehicle is only 2 1/2 years old. They inlcude fogging (condensation) in the headlight system, peeling of the dash material, rear doors that do not fit properly (I had this in b4 3/36 expired) and a couple other items - of which I will post. What are your thoughts?
2002 DXL - Has anyone experienced a "surging" when the air kicks on and off. Especially when stopped at a light or when started up and the air is on. My lights (headlight and dash) will dim and the RPM drops for a second, like it is going to stall - never does. Also how do you feel the fan noise is? I notice a clicking, but do not know if I am being too consious of it.
2002 DXL - My rear doors are rubbing in the lower corner body inside where the black plastic is. The doors are not easiest to adjust and the dealer has repainted the door ajm once already. I assume that the fix is to "bend" the door alittle. I was wondering if anyone else had this and if you fixed it what the fix was. I think this also causes the door to squeak when shutting - the top of the door is too tight against the rubber. Thanks.
2002 DXL - has anyone experienced their headlights looking fogged up, mostly on the high beam (round looking lens - not the fog light)? It seems like the seal is going and water/condensation is making its way in there. Any thoughts?
2002 DXL - There is a loose metal type rattle coming from the driver front - sounds like bolts are loose and the metal is rattleing. I have looked in the front wheel well and did not find anything. I feel it in my left foot when driving. Anyone have any idea where to look? Could something have come loose in the door? I am not sure if anything could have come loose in the undercarriage. Any thoughts on where to look?
2002 - DXL. When at a stop sign and go over a speed bump or dip in the road, the front goes over fine and then when the rear goes over there is a "dry" spring sound and a clunk. I had this before and the dealer tightened the rear shock bolts and it seemed to solve it, but it is back. I feel it all the way up through the front - like I dropped of a 1 ft bump. Any thoughts? Thanks.
2002 DXL with 55k - Had it since new - it has had normal maintenace and warranty work done at the dealer. I am running Amsoil in it. Should I have the dealer do anything specific to it because of the amount of miles on it? Is there a "certified" check up they will do for piece of mind - I know it will cost.
I had a 2001 DXL. Experienced similar power "surges" Lights would dim briefly. I did have a positive battery cable that was routed incorrectly and was too close to something that was causing the problem. There were some 2001's that were recalled for the problem, but it was only a small number. Before they replaced the cable I also had a slow draw that would drain the battery if it was left sitting for a week. That was resolved after the cable change. I sold the 2001 and don't know if the "surges" ever recurred after that.
I don't know about 2002, but IIRC the headlight housing on my '04 has what appears to be a short vent hose coming from underneath the housing; assuming that the seals haven't deteriorated, or that there aren't any cracks in the housing...maybe the vent hose is partially clogged?
It sounds similar to something I had on my 2003 DXL - may or may not be the same. I felt it when turning and going over a bump.
There is something in the steering system that needs to be lubed. If this is the same thing, there is actually a new steering component that has been improved so that it does not have to be lubed. My dealer is putting one in under warranty. I noticed it at 35,500 miles, just under the warranty limit.
I am a maintenance freek and do things on my vehicles ahead of schedule, but I run mine for 200k. Even though the book does not call for it, I do my trans and xfer case fluid every 20k-25k. Talking with my service advisor, the oil does start to discolor at that point. I would hate to have to rebuild one of these transmissions or xfer cases.
I also think doing the differentials every 40k is a good idea.
There is also a cabin filter that does have a change cycle.
The coolant is 5 year coolant and should be changed at that point.
I own a 2000 yukon that has the rear cargo or "barn" doors instead of the hatch. I would like to add a 3rd row seat and have found that gm never offered the 3rd row/barn door combo from the factory. Anyone know why?? Is there a safety issue with this combo??
It is the current body style. They offered a third row (all the mtg points are in my floor) but not with the barn doors for some reason. One dealer indicated it was because of a safety issue but of course, didnt know anymore. Before I bought a seat, I thought I'd better do some research.
I would try calling GM customer service and get a straight answer especially if there is some safety reason. The toll free number is in the back of your manual.
I have a hard time believing that the cargo doors would affect the 3rd pass. safety unless they can possibly buckle in and hit the seat????
"I have a hard time believing that the cargo doors would affect the 3rd pass. safety unless they can possibly buckle in and hit the seat????"
That is exactly what I was told by two different GMC dealers and their service department. They were leery of lawsuits and were specifically not recommending the barn doors if planning to use the third row for passengers.
Dealer handed me a typed up maintence list on last lof service that showed a 30k service for $500.00 Yikes, i referenced my owners manual that shows only a oil chance, fuel filter and air filter at 30k miles.Can anyone comment that had 30k mile service recently ?
Yeah, that's what I thought. I called every number I could get my hands on and visited a few dealerships.....no one would give me any info. Answers ranged from "I think it was because of safety", to "thats just the way they packaged the options". I should have known better than to waste my time. Thats the first time I have heard the buckle-in theory....kinda makes sense, thanks.
We've bought an '02 yukon with the 4.8 engine and will have to replace the air filter element pretty soon. I've heard that the k&n replacement element can offer performance and fuel economy gains. Has anyone tried a k&n filter?
If you don't already have latch attachment points down in the fold of the seat, then I would think there would be welding involved to add them in (these are loops of metal rod that are welded to the seat frame). That would almost certainly mean not only removing the seats from the vehicle, but also removing any upholstery from the seat to prevent burning it to cinders with the welding torch. It doesn't seem like something reasonable to do IMHO.
Opinions on air filters are like asking which truck is better or who makes the best oil - numerous and no right answer. I did a ton of research on the internet on filters and I am still confused.
I purchased a K&N for my '03 shortly after I bought it. Then a friend told me about how much non filtered air goes through it - very obvious by holding it up to the light.
But also, lower cost Fram type filters which will advertise better flow are not always the best for filtering.
If you checkout the internet and info from K&N there are people who are really sold on the filter from normal driving to off-roaders.
I think you have to be a little careful when using an oil soaked filter so as not to over-oil it and cause problems with the air flow sensor.
I sold my K&N to a buddy of mine and purchased a AMSOIL foam filter as I occasionally take my Yukon into dusty environments when hunting and my primary concern is for filtering performance. The foam type design is commonly used for off-road motorcycles and gives you better filtering and comparable flows to the K&N. Also a pain for cleaning, but you only have to do it every 25K (or so they say).
The two easiest things you can do for performance is open up the air and minimize the exhaust restriction. I noticed about a .75 - 1 mpg average increase (highway) by changing my air filter and exhaust. Not sure how much is attributed to the air filter.
If you are not in dusty environments, I think the K&N is a good choice. If you are in dusty environments, you may want to check out the AMSOIL.
The cost is not really a big deal as you never have to buy another filter again.
I've noticed the problem with the heater. Blowing hard then hardly blowing. Strange problem. I don't seem to notice the lights dimming though, but I don't drive much at noight anyway. Did you even get any answer to this problem?
I haven't seen the TSB that says "No K&N Air Filters", but my Denali threw a Check Engine light and the dealer diagnosed the problem to be with the oil from the K&N filter. They said that they had another Denali in with the same issue a few days earlier. So, I yanked the K&N and replaced it with the paper filter.
You might want to measure the distance in the interior of a barn door Yukon versus the hatch.
I had a few knowledgeable dealer types explain that the barn door chassis is about an inch or two shorter than the hatch due to the barn door frame assembly and the attaching to the chassis.
If it is just a little bit shorter there could be significant safety issues with insufficient space for regular, safe use as well as other "crumple-zone" type issues.
In the end, if you really want a third row -- you will be light years ahead to sell your current unit and buy one with a hatch and the third row. If you weld up something - you stand the very likely chance of cratering your resale value after pouring money into it. In addition, your insurance company might do a "Pontius Pilate" on you and wash their hands on any issues that they even dream are associated with this little project.
You're going to spend money and your vehicle value will drop even faster. It's not a winner.
Had a '00 Yukon and had the exact same problem. Good friend worked at the dealer so I got good support. Before he found the TSB he had replaced my rear shocks, completely disassembled the rear suspension twice and lubed everything including the spring perch point.
I know you will not believe this but the noise you are hearing is the driveshaft moving in and out of the transfer case. The TSB said to pull the driveshaft and fill the void in the yoke with the "new" transfer case/trans fluid and replace. Problem goes way for about 10K miles. Next try was to grease with axle grease. Also good for about 10K. Have a friend with an 03 Avelanche. Same problem, same solution! They do not all do it. I have an '02 Suburban, never heard a peep! HTH
I've got an 04 Denali with 22" wheels. I'm having trouble finding tire cables for my truck. I've checked all of the local auto part stores but none of them carry cables for my size tire. Next I checked the internet but wasn't sure on what brand to choose. SCC seems to make cables that most of the sights carry.
Does anybody have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated.
I have been reading these groups for a few months now, there is a lot of useful info here. My wife and I are the proud owners of 2 Denali's 2004 XL Black (Mine) and a 2004 shorty Silver (Hers) I traded my 98 4x4 Sub in around September and bought the black one. I've wanted one since they first came out. Dealer had great deals and 0%, couldn't pass it up. A few weeks later we decided to trade wife 98 Bonne SSEi in for a SUV, so we bought a 2004 Envoy SLT. Well after she was switching back and forth between driving my Denali and her Envoy, she started to not like the Envoy so much. Nice SUV, but no Denali. So in the interest of insuring domestic tranquility, I went back to the dealer last week and they had the Silver one on the showroom floor. They were having a red tag sale, deep discounts on this one. They wanted to get rid of it before it was 2005. So we took a little bit of a hit and traded the Envoy in. So now happy wife, Happy Life.
Congrats on both purchases! All you need now is to add a Sierra Denali to your fleet and you have the whole collection!
I know exactly what you mean. I originally wanted the Olds Bravada when the redesign came out in 2002. It was nice, but after test driving one, it wasn't as enjoyable to drive as the Tahoe/Yukon/Suburbans. I'm still enjoying my '02 Denali a lot.
I did a real bone-head move on my 03 Denali XL - I assumed the grease joints where the same as on my 90' K-5 Blazer, in which I would give them a few shots of the grease gun when I changed oil.
Well, the new joints are different. I over filled the ball joints by blindly hitting them each oil change and cracked the rubber boots.
GM says the whole joint has to be replaced.
All that is stated in the manual is not to grease the joints if below a certain temperature.
I am kicking myself right now. GM will not replace them under warranty. I placed a long shot on the fact that the temperature warning is stated in the book, but not an overfill warning in the hope of getting GM to provide the parts while I would pay for the labor. No Luck.
Any advice besides sucking it up and having the joints replaced for $1500?
The major difference is the Denali offers a 6 liter engine and full time all wheel drive not available on the Yukon SLT. I believe there is a wheel size difference as well. All other differences are trim.
I agree with most everything here, except the full time all wheel drive comment. Our '03 SLT came with all wheel drive and Stabilitrak always on. There was a 2WD SLT version available. I don't know about the newer models. In the last few years GM introduces new standard features one year, then takes them away or makes them optional the next, ie: side air bags and interior lighting ... I guess to keep costs down. (What a way to run an auto company, eh!)
In '03, the Denali only came with the 6.0 liter engine and the 4L65-E transmission w/temperature gauge. It also had standard 17" wheels and projector beam headlamps. An on-screen navigation system was optional. All other accessories/options were available on both the SLT and Denali. Most everything else was cosmetic differences. To get the 6.0 or optional 8.1 liter engines in the SLT, you had to order the Yukon XL 3/4 ton.
I have been reading this forum recently and found a lot of useful info. I'm 99% sold on buying an 05' Yukon Denali. The 1% I'm unsure of is the resale value. I noticed the resale trade-in on an 04' is $31K. That is pitiful. If I wanted to trade-in 2-3 years from now, I might owe more than the Denali is worth. Maybe I'm over analyzing it. What does anyone else think about resale value?
But buying used isn't as much fun (usually). Most cars take a big hit when you drive them off the lot. It's especially painful if you total it or trade it in the first couple of years.
The 4 wheel drive system in the Denali is different. It is full time 4 wheel drive. All 4 wheels are always getting power (the percentage to each wheel is different based on traction situation). The SLT has auto 4 wheel drive. It runs in 2 wheel drive and then switches to 4 wheel drive when slipage occurs. It is much more likely to experience a brief wheel slip on an SLT than a Denali. If you drive the 2 vehicles back to back (especially in slick conditions) you will feel the difference. This difference will be important to some and not to others. Also note that the Denali does not have 4 wheel low. While the net result is somewhat similiar, the 2 4 wheel drive systems are totally different.
Our owner's manual is a bit confusing to me. Page 2-29 describes "Automatic Transfer Case" and shows 4 buttons on the dash ... Auto 4WD, 2HI, 4HI and 4LO.
Page 2-32 describes "All-Wheel Drive with Stabilitrak" and shows 3 buttons on the dash (which is what we have) ... Stabilitrak (defaults to on), All Wheel Drive (defaults to on) and 4LO (defaults to off). Manual further states that "engine power is sent to all four wheels all the time."
As I understand it, stabilitrac puts it in 4 wheel auto at all times and eliminates the 2 wheel drive option. But, the vehicle is powered by just 2 wheels unless slip is detected.
Here is what I found out while shopping for a an '05 Suburban/Yukon XL or Denali XL. Denali had a bigger and stronger engine. You can get a navigation AND 6 cd changer in dash on Denali not on the Sub or Yukon, rear outboard seats heated on Denali, not on Sub/Yuk XL. The full time all wheel drive on Denali feels better when driving on slippery areas or when going from snow to dry pavement. I traded a 2001 Sub LT that always hesitated before 4 wheel drive kicked in when things got slippery. It also was hard to steer when 4 wheel drive full or 4 wheel drive auto was engaged and you drive from a snowy street to a dry driveway. If you have a baby the second row bench is a must as either you or your front seat passenger will be able to reach the baby if the baby is in the middle seating position. If you don't have more than one child or carry more than 4 passengers the "Shorty" version should be good for you. I have three kids plus 2 or 3 nieces and nephews who always tag along so I got a Denali XL to get the extra cargo room. Hope this helps and good luck shopping. I got my DXL for $1000 more than the best Suburban/Yukon XL price I could get.
How come no one mentioned the unique autoride feature on the Denali's ? I test drove a Denali a few days ago and the sales guy (who was relatively new) swears the autoride feature on Denali improved the quality of the ride above that of Yukon LT/SLT. I didn't test it myself, but that's what I was told. THOUGTHS ??
If you can wait 18 months, I just read that the '07 expedition is coming out with a V6, high torque diesel. Expect 9,000 lbs.+ of towing capacity. No frame on axle structure like GM's, but an option to consider.
First, ignore my autoride question 2 posts up. I just read about 100 posts and have learned a lot. However, I would still like an expert opinion on buying a used '01 vs used '02 Denali shorty. Since I drive 12mi roundtrip to work, and live near the ocean for most boating, I can easily look at these used ones (i.e.,50-70,000 miles - that preferably did no towing.)
We're there any kinks in the initial remodeled year (2001) that needed to be tweaked ? I guess my biggest concerns are with saftey features (side airbags) and build quality of the expensive parts like engine / tranny / electronics / etc. Other thoughts ?
One final question on towing trends for Denali shorty. For 2001 - 8,500lbs; 2002 - 8,200lbs; 2003 - 8,000lbs. If anyone knows the answer to the declining trend, you're a serious GM SUV stud.
Comments
Thanks.
There is something in the steering system that needs to be lubed. If this is the same thing, there is actually a new steering component that has been improved so that it does not have to be lubed. My dealer is putting one in under warranty. I noticed it at 35,500 miles, just under the warranty limit.
I also think doing the differentials every 40k is a good idea.
There is also a cabin filter that does have a change cycle.
The coolant is 5 year coolant and should be changed at that point.
Thanks
I have a hard time believing that the cargo doors would affect the 3rd pass. safety unless they can possibly buckle in and hit the seat????
That is exactly what I was told by two different GMC dealers and their service department. They were leery of lawsuits and were specifically not recommending the barn doors if planning to use the third row for passengers.
thanks,
Dl
Steve, Host
I purchased a K&N for my '03 shortly after I bought it. Then a friend told me about how much non filtered air goes through it - very obvious by holding it up to the light.
But also, lower cost Fram type filters which will advertise better flow are not always the best for filtering.
If you checkout the internet and info from K&N there are people who are really sold on the filter from normal driving to off-roaders.
I think you have to be a little careful when using an oil soaked filter so as not to over-oil it and cause problems with the air flow sensor.
I sold my K&N to a buddy of mine and purchased a AMSOIL foam filter as I occasionally take my Yukon into dusty environments when hunting and my primary concern is for filtering performance. The foam type design is commonly used for off-road motorcycles and gives you better filtering and comparable flows to the K&N. Also a pain for cleaning, but you only have to do it every 25K (or so they say).
The two easiest things you can do for performance is open up the air and minimize the exhaust restriction. I noticed about a .75 - 1 mpg average increase (highway) by changing my air filter and exhaust. Not sure how much is attributed to the air filter.
If you are not in dusty environments, I think the K&N is a good choice. If you are in dusty environments, you may want to check out the AMSOIL.
The cost is not really a big deal as you never have to buy another filter again.
Apparently, and I'm guessing, the K&N and other oil soaked type filters can spray oil onto the Mass Airflow Sensor and cause it to fail.
Any solutions here?
Mike
I had a few knowledgeable dealer types explain that the barn door chassis is about an inch or two shorter than the hatch due to the barn door frame assembly and the attaching to the chassis.
If it is just a little bit shorter there could be significant safety issues with insufficient space for regular, safe use as well as other "crumple-zone" type issues.
In the end, if you really want a third row -- you will be light years ahead to sell your current unit and buy one with a hatch and the third row. If you weld up something - you stand the very likely chance of cratering your resale value after pouring money into it. In addition, your insurance company might do a "Pontius Pilate" on you and wash their hands on any issues that they even dream are associated with this little project.
You're going to spend money and your vehicle value will drop even faster. It's not a winner.
I know you will not believe this but the noise you are hearing is the driveshaft moving in and out of the transfer case. The TSB said to pull the driveshaft and fill the void in the yoke with the "new" transfer case/trans fluid and replace. Problem goes way for about 10K miles. Next try was to grease with axle grease. Also good for about 10K. Have a friend with an 03 Avelanche. Same problem, same solution! They do not all do it. I have an '02 Suburban, never heard a peep! HTH
Does anybody have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated.
-mike
These SUV's are awesome, we could not be happier.
May need to build bigger garage though......
(Hope my first post was not to long winded)
I know exactly what you mean. I originally wanted the Olds Bravada when the redesign came out in 2002. It was nice, but after test driving one, it wasn't as enjoyable to drive as the Tahoe/Yukon/Suburbans. I'm still enjoying my '02 Denali a lot.
Well, the new joints are different. I over filled the ball joints by blindly hitting them each oil change and cracked the rubber boots.
GM says the whole joint has to be replaced.
All that is stated in the manual is not to grease the joints if below a certain temperature.
I am kicking myself right now. GM will not replace them under warranty. I placed a long shot on the fact that the temperature warning is stated in the book, but not an overfill warning in the hope of getting GM to provide the parts while I would pay for the labor. No Luck.
Any advice besides sucking it up and having the joints replaced for $1500?
Has anybody else run into this problem?
I have narrowed down my choices to the GMC Yukon LT or the Yukon Denali.
What is the difference?
If I purchase a fully loaded Yukon SLT isn't the same as the Denali?
Yukon owners, what to you love and what do you hate?
How is the second row with rear facing baby car seats?
2nd row captain chairs with rear facing baby car seats good or bad?
Cargo room? Room for a stroller AND groceries?
I appreciate your feedback!
In '03, the Denali only came with the 6.0 liter engine and the 4L65-E transmission w/temperature gauge. It also had standard 17" wheels and projector beam headlamps. An on-screen navigation system was optional. All other accessories/options were available on both the SLT and Denali. Most everything else was cosmetic differences. To get the 6.0 or optional 8.1 liter engines in the SLT, you had to order the Yukon XL 3/4 ton.
Keep Your Eye on Resale Value
Steve, Host
Page 2-32 describes "All-Wheel Drive with Stabilitrak" and shows 3 buttons on the dash (which is what we have) ... Stabilitrak (defaults to on), All Wheel Drive (defaults to on) and 4LO (defaults to off). Manual further states that "engine power is sent to all four wheels all the time."
I guess I need to put it to the test sometime.
If you can wait 18 months, I just read that the '07 expedition is coming out with a V6, high torque diesel. Expect 9,000 lbs.+ of towing capacity. No frame on axle structure like GM's, but an option to consider.
We're there any kinks in the initial remodeled year (2001) that needed to be tweaked ? I guess my biggest concerns are with saftey features (side airbags) and build quality of the expensive parts like engine / tranny / electronics / etc. Other thoughts ?
One final question on towing trends for Denali shorty. For 2001 - 8,500lbs; 2002 - 8,200lbs; 2003 - 8,000lbs. If anyone knows the answer to the declining trend, you're a serious GM SUV stud.