Well the 2001 Sequoia now has 82K miles. I had 3 significant issues - brake TSB done under warranty (~$2000), air compressor failure(out of warranty - I paid for labor - Parts were paid by Toyota (again another $2000 hit) and lastly 2 cracked exhaust manifolds (~$1700). Numerous "minor" issues - rear tailgate latch has broken 2 times, tailgate window no longer works, power antenna no longer works, numerous interior trim pieces fall off with some bolts etc just found lying around. Some things I will miss are reclining seats in both the 2nd and third rows. windows that open all the way, and a 3rd row seat that slides front to back and also is split - not a bench.
You're not alone. I have an associate whose 2001 Sequoia has treated him a little better. The brakes appear to be a common failure item for the Seq; he's also experienced a broken PW and antenna, pass power seat quit. And he's only got ~45k on his.
We went with the new Blue-Green Crystal. My wife liked the look, and how it appeared to change depening on the angle of view and ambient light.
Our last couple of vehicles have been blue or green, so this seemed to fit the family.
The dealer actually called yesterday - the DXL was delivered to them yesterday earlier than they expected. We're picking it up tonight!!
My wife is actually not as thrilled as you'd expect since she's going to miss her minivan (at least for a little) since we're giving up a little convience that's nice to have with the kids (power sliding doors and tailgate).
Well I'm 3 days into the new DXL experience and so far am impressed with the ride and manners of the DXL. One nagging question that the owners manual was not quite clear on. When sitting behind a school bus or truck and I want to quickly put on the recirc button to keep out the diesel smell, the button just flashes. I take it out of auto mode and still the recirc light flashes when the button is pushed. I just want to keep the smell out for a short period and need to do it quickly. Any help? Another minor gripe is the center console. For such a large unit, it only holds a 1/2 dozen cds, while the lid only opens for the driver. The drivers side passenger does not have access. Very poor design. All in all there is not alot of storage for things like chewing gum, sun glasses, etc.
The recirculate function will only work if the fan is on and air is directed out from the dash vents, not the defog vents, floor vents or a combination.
Mine is an '02 which has knobs for HVAC controls. I know the HVAC controls and display were changed when they added the dual temp controls for the driver and passenger. Maybe an owner of an '04 or '05 can confirm that is how it still works.
I agree about the center console opening. It should've been designed to flip back instead of to the side. There actually used to be an additional covered storage compartment on top of that center lid which is where I store smaller items such as my sunglasses, gum, etc. Unfortunately, GMC changed that design in '03.
Since we're discussing the center console, can any of the other owners tell me what the leather flap with velcro is for inside the console? Its located where the hinge is when you open that center lid. Is it to hold a flashlight? I really would be surprised if its just there to cover the hinge. Mine always curls up and was wondering why its even there.
I have a 2003 YXL SLE with the tri-zone climate control. I've found that I can only force the system to recirculate by taking it out of Auto. It's a pain and usually, by the time I've monkeyed with the controls (while trying to avoid becoming too distracted from my driving!), then it is too late, the interior is already saturated with the hoped-to-have-been-avoided fumes, and the whole reason for my effort is gone.
However, when I shift over to my 2003 Taurus for commuting and I have to manually change every aspect of the temperature control (fan speed, heat/cool settings, and the mode settings), I realize how spoiled the tri-zone climate control has made me! (I won't even talk about how much I miss the YZL's automatic head lights or the auto-dimming rearview mirror! Oo, oo, oo and then there is that annoying Ford turn signal cancelling that fights you if you want to signal left while rounding a slight left curve and will cancel the signal at the slightest change of wheel angle! Bless the YXL which will just ding-ding with a message on the info display should I leave my turn signal on too long!) Then I decide that it isn't so bad to suffer from the occasional bad odor. Even so, GM, if you are listening...!
Looking to get the 6.0 in either but trying to find out the differences, also interested in the snow-plow option which I know is only available on the 3/4 ton. How much worse is the ride on the 3/4 v. Std? Also can you get the 2nd row buckets on the 3/4? Navigation? DVD? etc.
Take both for an overnight test drive. The major benefit of the 3/4 ton is the availability of 4 wheel steering. The acceleration of the 2 vehicles will be different because of the transmission gearing differences.
I was in a very similar predicament two years ago because I wanted the 6.0l engine. I drive mountain snow roads for skiing, fire roads and ranches for hunting, towing a 3500lb boat or 5000 lb trailer a few times a year, but 90% of my driving now is with the family on the highway.
This vehicle was an upgrade from a 90 full size blazer with 33" tires that I could go anywhere.
I opted for the Denali - I guess I am getting old.
It really comes down to what you are going to do with the vehicle. The ride of the the 1/2-ton with the autoride (Denali) is really nice and much smoother, in my opinion, that the 3/4 ton. Kind of like driving a big car versus a truck.
Also, the drivability of the powertrain in the Denali is better when using it as a car. The 3/4 ton has a much beefier trans (good for towing and pushing snow) but will not be as smooth around town (according to my contacts at GM).
I like having more power which is why I wanted the 6.0l. If you look at the power to weight ratio of the 1/2ton 5.3 and the 3/4ton 6.0, they are very similar.
If you are thinking of a snow plow - the choice is clear. You really want to go with the 3/4 ton. With the 3/4 ton you can get the standard 4-wheel drive system with a locking differential which will give you the best traction in snow and mud. With the Denali, you don't have the locking differential due to the stabili-trac system.
The stabili-trac is really good when driving snow roads and the AWD is always on. But if you are in the mud off road or pushing snow, the standard 4-wheel drive will turn more wheels and give you better traction. The stabili-trac actually brakes the spinning wheels and as such they do not offer the locking diff with this system).
If you are really concerned with ride and still want to plow snow or off road mud, you might want to look at the 1/2-ton, autoride, with the standard 4 wheel drive.
I think the advice of taking the different vehicles for an extended drive is great advice.
I believe most of the Denali options are available on the 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton. The only real differences that are not available are the exterior plastic parts, painted bumpers, upgraded dash trim and two-tone seats, and you are stuck with the AWD & Stabil-trac instead of a standard 4WD.
If you go on line, you can build a vehicle and it will give you all the options.
FYI - for XL owners that have the bose stereo: There is a storage compartment in the back drivers side. With the bose stereo, there is no speaker underneath this. If you cut the bottom of this tray out (convert it into a cover with some brackets) you have a great storage area for jumper cables, tow strap... The front of this area leads into the jack compartment, so you have two access points.
Thanks for the input guys. I mostly will be towing my 5000-10,000lbs car trailer to racetracks and carting around in-laws, friends etc. It won't be used as my daily driver to work in manhattan (have my subie for that ). As for the bumpers and trim pieces I'm not worried about that as I'm planning on replacing the front bumper with an ARB type unit shortly after buying. I do wish they had AWD with the locker. Question on the 4wd system of the 3/4 ton, is that only a part-time system or is there an auto-4wd option on it?
I am new to this chat room, so I don't know if you have made a decision or not regarding the autoride.
The main thing autoride does for you is it controls the modal body movements - the floating feeling you get when going down the road by switching the shock valving.
It works well for controlling this, ecspecially over a wide-load range (driving empty versus kids, luggage and a trailer).
Normal suspension have to be tuned for the middle of the road, so in most cases you are too firm or too soft.
I would buy it again. In fact, I have followed some standard Suburbans/Yukons over large waves in the road and could see/feel the difference.
I believe you can get the autoride on the Yukon 1/2-ton.
The electronically controlled stability essentially applies the brakes to a spinning wheel, this acts like a LSD but the problem is that you can't spin out of a rut which you can do with a non-electronically-brake controlled LSD unit.
I have experienced a great ride with my 03-DXL. The only time things are extremely rough is on a washboard dirt road, which I think is true with any truck. It is weird that you are experiencing such as bad ride - I would think something is not right.
The Autoride is basically a two-position shock (firm/soft) that switches very fast to control the body movement. For high frequency rough roads, it really acts like a normal shock.
So, I would think this system would give you a better ride on the rough roads because the shock should maintain a softer setting.
If you can isolate it to a particular road, I would get the dealer to allow you to test drive another 04 or 05 to see if it does it. If it is better, then show it to the service manager and make him fix it.
One other thing to question them on: I know the Autoride uses a different calibration when you are in the tow/haul mode. Is is possible the system thinks you are in this mode?
I know what you mean about service guys not believing you. Sometimes you have to prove it to them before they take you seriously. With all of the computer systems, if there is no error code, they say there is not problem.
I had one front-end guy tell me the very slight noise I was hearing was just the AWD system and the meshing of the gears. I told him that was not it - it did not make sense. They found out it was a bad bearing in the front axle.
Not sure about the auto-option for the part-time system. Have not looked into it.
My DXL tows a 5000 lb. trailer great. But if I was going to be towing 10K car trailers, I would lean toward the 3/4 ton. Everything is beefier (trans, axle...).
Since you are changing the bumper, are you going to lift it also? The only lifts you can do with the autoride are body lifts, and there are not many tire options at the standard ride height.
How do you use your 4WD - mud at the dirt tracks while towing?
I am from the old 4WD days - lock the hubs and go. Even though I now own a DXL and they really work well in the snow and occasional mud, I think they where really developed for the non-4WD people (i.e. the housewife taking the kids to school - they always have traction).
Nah no dirt tracks, Road Courses here in the Northeast. I'm an AWD fan so I like the idea of the AWD DXL, however I can't see paying the premium for the DXL when pricing out a 3/4ton with all the DXL options it comes out about $1500 less!
Why are there no options for a lift with the auto-ride? Don't they make longer leaf springs for the rear and you crank up your torsion bars in the front? I currently offroad my '00 Trooper and likely won't be offroading the XL since it's way way to long for most offroad trails I've seen.
When I checked into it late in 02, just to solve my curiosity, I was told there where not any options, although that may have changed.
I agree, the vehicle is too big for off road and too nice to crash through trees, so I changed tires and rims and left mine optimal for highway, snow and fire roads.
True there are lift kits for independent systems like the front. The rears are coils, and you can get different torsion bars.
The Autoride is the controlled shock along with wheel to body position sensors and body accelerometers (if I recall properly). You would need a different shock if you changed the ride height, so the easy alternative is the body lift.
I was just going through some of the interesting info on this site. The backup sensors is one option I would have been interested, mainly for my wife driving and a small child that runs behind the vehicle.
I did see that Delco Produced a add-on backup sensor system that I believe fit into the rear receiver. I think it is marketed alot to delivery type trucks.
I have not checked into it, but it may be an option. If you are really interested, check with the dealer.
There is also some aftermarket ones out there. I am not really big on some of these add-on systems - they are not as clean as factory: http://www.sotelectronics.com/src_backup.php3
Just last week, a guy hit and killed his 2- or 3-year-old daughter in Richardson, TX. The guy lives just up the street from a good friend of ours. The girl apparently came out of the house after the dad was in the vehicle (some kind of SUV, I don't remember which), staying below his view on the passenger side before walking behind the vehicle as he backed out of the garage. His and his remaining family member's worlds just had a catastrophic shift in priorities.
CR had an article about these sensor a month or two back. There is nothing perfect. But, the visual displays are the best for avoiding this type of thing. And by far the best are those using the factory Nav system screens as they give the biggest, clearest picture for rear-view cameras.
I'm still debating as I love the compass, temperature, and auto-dimming of my stock mirror in my YXL (I don't have Nav) so I don't want to go with a rear-view-mirror screen system losing those features. But getting a reasonably attractive and workable dash installation is difficult to find too. In the meantime, it will be the cautious-backing routine: a careful walk around the vehicle, followed by constant awareness of who is where when, coupled with constant mirror scanning and looking all around while backing.
Maybe that sounds obsessive. But the risk of one failure is a life possibly lost and a lifetime of regret for me. I'll choose a bit of anal-retention instead.
Dilbertzzz, you are a 100% correct, you have to be SO careful if you have "little ones" around the house. I have the sensors on my 2002 Mercedes ML500 on the front and rear; I would want them on my next vehicle.
I was thinking of changing to a larger SUV and started looking at the Denali XL. When I found out that the sensors are not an option I moved over to the Cadillac Escalade ESV because the sensors are standard on the rear. After looking at the Cadillac closer, the longer warranty and standard features won me over if I consider the GM product.
Happy Motoring, Mark
2010 Land Rover LR4, 2013 Honda CR-V, 2009 Bentley GTC, 1990 MB 500SL, 2001 MB S500, 2007 Lincoln TC, 1964 RR Silver Cloud III, 1995 MB E320 Cab., 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach
I've a 2001 Denali that has developed the front end howl, which occurs around 45 MPH. I saw a post, awhile back, indicating that someone else has had their front end overhauled. Have others encountered this problem? If so, did you have anything done that corrected the problem?
is that with the 4500 and 1500 discounts? I was offered 49,500 on msrp 56,300 before discounts. Im going to do the 0.0 finance and take another 1500 off 48k even
Has anyone here moved up from a Suburban or YXL to an XLD? I am looking for legitimate fuel economy (or lack thereof) difference between the 5.3 PT 4WD and the 6.0 AWD. I often see as little as 14 in my 5.3 burb and amd worried about the reduction I might see when I go to the 6.0 AWD. I realize that this vehicle is not designed for economy but at $2.00 per gallon I need to at least consider it!
I just went from a 2001 Suburban LT to a 2005 Denali XL. I don't have a clue what I was getting on the Sub but the Denali started the first week at 11mpg. So far this second week it's up to 12-12.5 mpg (this is according to the on board computer). I'm going to PA this weekend and will follow up then on what I got as far as mpg. Other than that I love the extra power on the DXL especially when passing, plus all the extras my Sub LT did not have (XM radio, six cd changer, dvd player, factory nav system with aftermarket back up camera that displays on nav screen, audio controls on steering wheel).
Thanks for the update. If you have a chance, jot down the mileage and gallons for a tank or two if you would. We have the Malibu Maxx with the "Driver Information Center", although the computer does a fair job, it can be off by as much as 2 MPG on a tank. (mind you that is at 27 MPG rather than 12....)
Anyway, tell me about the aftermarket backup camera. Did the dealer install this for you? Do you know the brand? How well does it integrate, i.e. what do you have to do to engage it and does it automatically take over the display?
You are looking at at least 1mpg, and maybe as much as 2mpg less with the 6.0 AWD on the highway (bigger engine, beefier trans which will take fuel and always turning the front axle). City would probably be less than 1mpg - either one is just trying to move alot of weight from stop/go.
I have a 2003 XLD. I do not do much city driving with it - it is the family trip vehicle. A little around town (25%) and occasional commute to work (40 miles freeway), I see 13-13.5 mpg, but I don't track it that close. I would guess complete around town would be around 11.5 depending on how much foot you use.
Complete highway: (I do a trip to the in-laws with the family that is 380 miles which I do about 6 times per year). I usually see about 15.5 mpg to 16.5 mpg. That is fast driving - my computer says I average 72 mph to as fast as 75 mph, which at times I have the cruise set at 80mph - 85mpg, then the typical CA highway slowdowns.
That speed makes a big difference. If I drive more at 72mph instead of 80, I will increase 1 mpg.
That trip includes a few major hills and occasional winds, but that is the overall average.
I have done a couple of mods (free flowing muffler with resonators and two tail pipes and a AMSOIL foam air filter. I also run synthetic oil.
Doing the exhaust and air filter mods, I noticed about a .5 to maybe a .75 mpg increase. But a good wind can drop or increase you 1-2mpg easily.
I have not checked the computer average against actual since it was new, but I recall the calculation was only off by .5 - 1mpg, usually in my favor (computer was calculating lower) and less than 1mpg.
If you where considering a Saturn versus a XLD, I would say the fuel would be a factor. But the XL to the XLD is going to be pretty insignificant. If you would drive 15k miles per year, combining city and highway, at a 1.5mpg difference, you are probably looking at an extra $250/year for the XLD. The upside is a very nice vehicle, AWD for bad weather and more power.
FYI: I have figured out a very clean exhaust mod for Denali's that allows two pipes (one each side) with a slight increase in acceleration sound, but quiet at highway speeds. There are kits for the XL's but not the Denali's, at least when I looked.
Thanks so much for the input. I did the exact same math. I actually drive about 20K miles per year in my burb (and that is a recent reduction from 30K) but I still agree with your logic. I just wanted to make sure we were not talking about 10 MPG. I know a guy who bought an 04 dodge with the HEMI and AWD and he was getting 10 MPG. He traded it in on a CIVIC Hybrid LOL!
Anyway, do tell about the exhaust. I seriously considered the exhaust but was worried about the noise. I personally love the sound but my wife could live without! Is it true duals or only splitting the single exhaust at the back? If you do not mind me asking, about how much did you spend on the setup?
Regarding your other mods I just replaced my air filter with a Green (www.greenfilterusa.com) that I saw demoed at a car show. It is a similar design as K&N but they had a demonstration setup that shows better flow than the K&N. They insist that the air filter on the 5.3/6.0 is extremely restrictive and that they "guarantee" 1+ MPG increase. I have burned 3 tanks with the new filter but do not have conclusive data. Although the mileage is up, I feel I have been driving an easier cycle than normal. Not to mention I replaced a 40K mile paper filter. Who knows.... I also run synthetic (from first oil change on)
R-dogg, Regarding your comment about the center console only having enough storage for half a dozen CDs, I think I found a good solution: Above the sun visors there are auxilliary sun visors (I guess for when you use main visors for the side window, you can also use those for the front--if you're a vampire). Whatever they're for, buy a Case Logic CD holder which I think holds ten or so CDs ($10 at Target), and attach that via the velco straps to the upper visor. When you have the main visor up it's barely visible. I bought two, one holds CDs on the driver's side, and the other holds a mix of CDs and DVDs on the passenger side. I have an 04 YXL, but I'd assume your DXL also has this feature. I opted not to get a sunroof because I'd rather have the headroom. That could be a space-limiting factor if you have one. I'm done with the hard CD cases. Even in my house I keep all the DVDs and CDs in nylon folders. The cases just take up too much space, and they don't protect the media any better anyway.
I also cut out the rear storage area in my Yukon. There is plenty of room to keep a socket set, an assortment of wrenches and screwdrivers in a canvas wrap, the hitch drawbar (wrapped in a towel so it doesn't rattle against the sheet metal), the headphones for the DVD player, a road atlas, first aid kit, tow strap, and various other roadside survivability trinkets. Have you cut into the other side? It seems there would be even more room over there since there is no jack on that side, though I'd have to figure out a creative way to conceal the opening (I didn't have room for my fire extinguisher). Yes, I like to be prepared. You should see what I kept in my helmet bag while flying around Iraq.
A few weeks back I think someone was asking about the Baer brake upgrade for the Denali. I had the eradispeed upgrade done a few months ago and they have been great. My stopping distance and pedal effort have greatly decreased.
Last week I took it a step further. Baer just released the illumispeed upgrade. Basically it is a rotor and caliper upgrade. The eradispeed is only to upgrade the rotors while using the stock calipers. Although the original upgrade made a difference in stopping the caliper upgrade made a huge difference.
The eradispeed upgrade only upgrades the rotors to 14" while still using the stock calipers and pads. This system doesn't make full use of the 14" rotors. The stock calipers only grab about 2/3 of the new rotor. The illumispeed upgrade uses the new Baer calipers which use almost the entire rotor for stopping.
I am extremely happy with the new brake performance not to mention the great looks of the new red painted calipers and large rotors.
I am getting 20" Wheels for 2002 XL Denali. Wish to instal Michelin Cross Terrain SUV P305/50HR/20 tires. Will this be OK? ONE GMC dealer says NO! and one says ok. Has anyone out there had any experience? I have had great experience with the Cross Terrain tires, getting 70K miles with my last set.jthompson22
#1 do they make them in that size? #2 Do they really last that long on a high performance tire. I have Nitto Extreme 404 22" on my Denali. I don't expect to get much more than 30,000 on mine. Do they make them in a 305/45/22?
Yes,Michelin makes them & Costco sells them. Costco will not mount nor install them, as GMC does not factory equipt. the vehicle with that size tire. They also sell the the Michelin LTX M/S 275/55TR/20 which they will mount & install as GMC now offers a 20" wheel w/ that size tire. This Michelin tire (LTX M/S) is $100 a tire cheaper than the Cross Terrain. If I give up that much tire life between 20" & 17" wheels,I will go with cheaper tire. If Michelin has a 22' tire for SUV's, I am not aware of it.thompson22
Unless GM decided to go back on their thrifty ways, I believe that there are no aux sun visors on the '05 Denali...or on any of GM's other NBS full-size SUVs and/or trucks; GM took them--in addition to lots of other "minor" stuff--away starting in '04 as part of their profix-maximizing plan.
Denaliman--would you be willing to share how much the Baer Illumispeed brake package goes for? Just curious, since the only other "widely" available package similar to it is the Brembo kit, which goes for an arm and a leg; also, does the Illumispeed kit include stainless-steel braided brake lines?
Will I be able to notice the effects of Autoride in normal day-to-day driving on typical surface streets and freeways if I'm not pulling a heavy load or not carrying more than just a few passengers? I ask because I've owned a non-Autoride '03 YXL and currently drive an '04 DXL and for the life of me I could not notice a difference in ride quality between the two; there is no DIC message saying that there's an issue with the Autoride system, so I ask--is Autoride noticeable only if you're trailering?
I originally had the eradispeed rotors done for $1500 and then upgraded the calipers for another $1250. I believe now if you do the both parts together it is slightly cheaper. At the time I didn't have a choice because the calipers were not available when I upgraded the rotors. No the stainless steel brake lines do not come with the pacakage.
Baer has another upgradable system that costs much more and uses a four piston system. I opted against it because of the cost and I didn't need that much performance.
I would highly recommend the illumispeed upgrade to anyone especialy to those who tow or often have a full car load.
Finally, some pics of the next generation Tahoe/Yukon! Look significantly different, especially from the b-pillar back. Taller and flatter seem to be what I get out of it.
First of all, skip the dealer when talking tires. In most cases, if it is not stock, they don't have a clue, although there are exceptions.
Depending on what state you live in, look up and contact Americas Tire Company (in CA) or Discount Tire Company (in the other states). They will be able to tell you what size tire will fit on your truck and what tires are made in that size.
I stayed with 18's as I take my XLD into rough roads and wanted a little more sidewall (Michelin LTX Pilot). It is a pretty non aggressive tread but surprisingly gets as much traction in the snow as my BF Goodrich All Terrains did on my past truck. It is pretty soft rubber but I have 37k miles on them and should make it through winter and into the summer (about another 10-15k).
I was going through alot of tire options when I was making my decision. Traction in the snow/mud and looks where important. The company listed above actually mounted two tires/rims in different sizes and put them on my truck to see the looks. There prices are good and they will match Costco if they have a better deal.
I don't work for them, they have just provided me with really good service and assistance with choosing tires. You just have to find the guy with the most experience.
I have not cut out the other side because of the same reason you listed - have not figured out a creative way of hiding it.
Since there was not little storage compartment over there, I am not sure if there are other things hidden in it.
On the drivers side there was area for a rear speaker which was not the case on the passenger side. I would not be surprised if there was a couple of computers hidden in there. I really need to pose that question to the dealer.
The only way I thought to access it was to cut out the little tray and make it like the jack access tray. But that is a little harder to do and keep it clean.
If you figure something out let me know. Next time I am in by the dealer, I will try to find out if there is anything in there.
Comments
Now we're members of the club. We're due to take delivery of an '05 DXL in the next week or 10 days.
Thanks for all the help - and I hope to post more often now. The truck will be my wife's daily driver and we'll do some towing next summer.
Looking forward to it.
Our last couple of vehicles have been blue or green, so this seemed to fit the family.
The dealer actually called yesterday - the DXL was delivered to them yesterday earlier than they expected. We're picking it up tonight!!
My wife is actually not as thrilled as you'd expect since she's going to miss her minivan (at least for a little) since we're giving up a little convience that's nice to have with the kids (power sliding doors and tailgate).
We'll see how she feels after a few weeks.
Mine is an '02 which has knobs for HVAC controls. I know the HVAC controls and display were changed when they added the dual temp controls for the driver and passenger. Maybe an owner of an '04 or '05 can confirm that is how it still works.
I agree about the center console opening. It should've been designed to flip back instead of to the side. There actually used to be an additional covered storage compartment on top of that center lid which is where I store smaller items such as my sunglasses, gum, etc. Unfortunately, GMC changed that design in '03.
Since we're discussing the center console, can any of the other owners tell me what the leather flap with velcro is for inside the console? Its located where the hinge is when you open that center lid. Is it to hold a flashlight? I really would be surprised if its just there to cover the hinge. Mine always curls up and was wondering why its even there.
However, when I shift over to my 2003 Taurus for commuting and I have to manually change every aspect of the temperature control (fan speed, heat/cool settings, and the mode settings), I realize how spoiled the tri-zone climate control has made me! (I won't even talk about how much I miss the YZL's automatic head lights or the auto-dimming rearview mirror! Oo, oo, oo and then there is that annoying Ford turn signal cancelling that fights you if you want to signal left while rounding a slight left curve and will cancel the signal at the slightest change of wheel angle! Bless the YXL which will just ding-ding with a message on the info display should I leave my turn signal on too long!) Then I decide that it isn't so bad to suffer from the occasional bad odor. Even so, GM, if you are listening...!
Trying to decide:
Yukon XL 3/4 Ton or Denali XL.
Looking to get the 6.0 in either but trying to find out the differences, also interested in the snow-plow option which I know is only available on the 3/4 ton. How much worse is the ride on the 3/4 v. Std? Also can you get the 2nd row buckets on the 3/4? Navigation? DVD? etc.
Thanks in advance.
-mike
This vehicle was an upgrade from a 90 full size blazer with 33" tires that I could go anywhere.
I opted for the Denali - I guess I am getting old.
It really comes down to what you are going to do with the vehicle. The ride of the the 1/2-ton with the autoride (Denali) is really nice and much smoother, in my opinion, that the 3/4 ton. Kind of like driving a big car versus a truck.
Also, the drivability of the powertrain in the Denali is better when using it as a car. The 3/4 ton has a much beefier trans (good for towing and pushing snow) but will not be as smooth around town (according to my contacts at GM).
I like having more power which is why I wanted the 6.0l. If you look at the power to weight ratio of the 1/2ton 5.3 and the 3/4ton 6.0, they are very similar.
If you are thinking of a snow plow - the choice is clear. You really want to go with the 3/4 ton. With the 3/4 ton you can get the standard 4-wheel drive system with a locking differential which will give you the best traction in snow and mud. With the Denali, you don't have the locking differential due to the stabili-trac system.
The stabili-trac is really good when driving snow roads and the AWD is always on. But if you are in the mud off road or pushing snow, the standard 4-wheel drive will turn more wheels and give you better traction. The stabili-trac actually brakes the spinning wheels and as such they do not offer the locking diff with this system).
If you are really concerned with ride and still want to plow snow or off road mud, you might want to look at the 1/2-ton, autoride, with the standard 4 wheel drive.
I think the advice of taking the different vehicles for an extended drive is great advice.
I believe most of the Denali options are available on the 1/2-ton and 3/4-ton. The only real differences that are not available are the exterior plastic parts, painted bumpers, upgraded dash trim and two-tone seats, and you are stuck with the AWD & Stabil-trac instead of a standard 4WD.
If you go on line, you can build a vehicle and it will give you all the options.
FYI - for XL owners that have the bose stereo: There is a storage compartment in the back drivers side. With the bose stereo, there is no speaker underneath this. If you cut the bottom of this tray out (convert it into a cover with some brackets) you have a great storage area for jumper cables, tow strap... The front of this area leads into the jack compartment, so you have two access points.
Thanks in advance for the help!
-mike
The main thing autoride does for you is it controls the modal body movements - the floating feeling you get when going down the road by switching the shock valving.
It works well for controlling this, ecspecially over a wide-load range (driving empty versus kids, luggage and a trailer).
Normal suspension have to be tuned for the middle of the road, so in most cases you are too firm or too soft.
I would buy it again. In fact, I have followed some standard Suburbans/Yukons over large waves in the road and could see/feel the difference.
I believe you can get the autoride on the Yukon 1/2-ton.
The 03/04 is a four corner system that did not allow the rear to use a locking differential.
I guess the 4 corner system is better for controlling a spin-out.
-mike
-mike
The Autoride is basically a two-position shock (firm/soft) that switches very fast to control the body movement. For high frequency rough roads, it really acts like a normal shock.
So, I would think this system would give you a better ride on the rough roads because the shock should maintain a softer setting.
If you can isolate it to a particular road, I would get the dealer to allow you to test drive another 04 or 05 to see if it does it. If it is better, then show it to the service manager and make him fix it.
One other thing to question them on: I know the Autoride uses a different calibration when you are in the tow/haul mode. Is is possible the system thinks you are in this mode?
I know what you mean about service guys not believing you. Sometimes you have to prove it to them before they take you seriously. With all of the computer systems, if there is no error code, they say there is not problem.
I had one front-end guy tell me the very slight noise I was hearing was just the AWD system and the meshing of the gears. I told him that was not it - it did not make sense. They found out it was a bad bearing in the front axle.
Good Luck
-mike
My DXL tows a 5000 lb. trailer great. But if I was going to be towing 10K car trailers, I would lean toward the 3/4 ton. Everything is beefier (trans, axle...).
Since you are changing the bumper, are you going to lift it also? The only lifts you can do with the autoride are body lifts, and there are not many tire options at the standard ride height.
How do you use your 4WD - mud at the dirt tracks while towing?
I am from the old 4WD days - lock the hubs and go. Even though I now own a DXL and they really work well in the snow and occasional mud, I think they where really developed for the non-4WD people (i.e. the housewife taking the kids to school - they always have traction).
If I find out, I will get back to you.
Why are there no options for a lift with the auto-ride? Don't they make longer leaf springs for the rear and you crank up your torsion bars in the front? I currently offroad my '00 Trooper and likely won't be offroading the XL since it's way way to long for most offroad trails I've seen.
-mike
I agree, the vehicle is too big for off road and too nice to crash through trees, so I changed tires and rims and left mine optimal for highway, snow and fire roads.
True there are lift kits for independent systems like the front. The rears are coils, and you can get different torsion bars.
The Autoride is the controlled shock along with wheel to body position sensors and body accelerometers (if I recall properly). You would need a different shock if you changed the ride height, so the easy alternative is the body lift.
I did see that Delco Produced a add-on backup sensor system that I believe fit into the rear receiver. I think it is marketed alot to delivery type trucks.
I have not checked into it, but it may be an option. If you are really interested, check with the dealer.
There is also some aftermarket ones out there. I am not really big on some of these add-on systems - they are not as clean as factory:
http://www.sotelectronics.com/src_backup.php3
I'm really leaning toward the 3/4ton so I can make some $ with a snow plow in the winter
-mike
-mike
CR had an article about these sensor a month or two back. There is nothing perfect. But, the visual displays are the best for avoiding this type of thing. And by far the best are those using the factory Nav system screens as they give the biggest, clearest picture for rear-view cameras.
I'm still debating as I love the compass, temperature, and auto-dimming of my stock mirror in my YXL (I don't have Nav) so I don't want to go with a rear-view-mirror screen system losing those features. But getting a reasonably attractive and workable dash installation is difficult to find too. In the meantime, it will be the cautious-backing routine: a careful walk around the vehicle, followed by constant awareness of who is where when, coupled with constant mirror scanning and looking all around while backing.
Maybe that sounds obsessive. But the risk of one failure is a life possibly lost and a lifetime of regret for me. I'll choose a bit of anal-retention instead.
I was thinking of changing to a larger SUV and started looking at the Denali XL. When I found out that the sensors are not an option I moved over to the Cadillac Escalade ESV because the sensors are standard on the rear. After looking at the Cadillac closer, the longer warranty and standard features won me over if I consider the GM product.
Happy Motoring, Mark
-mike
Thanks,
Lee
Anyway, tell me about the aftermarket backup camera. Did the dealer install this for you? Do you know the brand? How well does it integrate, i.e. what do you have to do to engage it and does it automatically take over the display?
TIA,
Lee
I have a 2003 XLD. I do not do much city driving with it - it is the family trip vehicle. A little around town (25%) and occasional commute to work (40 miles freeway), I see 13-13.5 mpg, but I don't track it that close. I would guess complete around town would be around 11.5 depending on how much foot you use.
Complete highway: (I do a trip to the in-laws with the family that is 380 miles which I do about 6 times per year). I usually see about 15.5 mpg to 16.5 mpg. That is fast driving - my computer says I average 72 mph to as fast as 75 mph, which at times I have the cruise set at 80mph - 85mpg, then the typical CA highway slowdowns.
That speed makes a big difference. If I drive more at 72mph instead of 80, I will increase 1 mpg.
That trip includes a few major hills and occasional winds, but that is the overall average.
I have done a couple of mods (free flowing muffler with resonators and two tail pipes and a AMSOIL foam air filter. I also run synthetic oil.
Doing the exhaust and air filter mods, I noticed about a .5 to maybe a .75 mpg increase. But a good wind can drop or increase you 1-2mpg easily.
I have not checked the computer average against actual since it was new, but I recall the calculation was only off by .5 - 1mpg, usually in my favor (computer was calculating lower) and less than 1mpg.
If you where considering a Saturn versus a XLD, I would say the fuel would be a factor. But the XL to the XLD is going to be pretty insignificant. If you would drive 15k miles per year, combining city and highway, at a 1.5mpg difference, you are probably looking at an extra $250/year for the XLD. The upside is a very nice vehicle, AWD for bad weather and more power.
FYI: I have figured out a very clean exhaust mod for Denali's that allows two pipes (one each side) with a slight increase in acceleration sound, but quiet at highway speeds. There are kits for the XL's but not the Denali's, at least when I looked.
Thanks.
Anyway, do tell about the exhaust. I seriously considered the exhaust but was worried about the noise. I personally love the sound but my wife could live without! Is it true duals or only splitting the single exhaust at the back? If you do not mind me asking, about how much did you spend on the setup?
Regarding your other mods I just replaced my air filter with a Green (www.greenfilterusa.com) that I saw demoed at a car show. It is a similar design as K&N but they had a demonstration setup that shows better flow than the K&N. They insist that the air filter on the 5.3/6.0 is extremely restrictive and that they "guarantee" 1+ MPG increase. I have burned 3 tanks with the new filter but do not have conclusive data. Although the mileage is up, I feel I have been driving an easier cycle than normal. Not to mention I replaced a 40K mile paper filter. Who knows.... I also run synthetic (from first oil change on)
Thanks,
Lee
gotb "K&N Air Filters, bolt-on power?" Oct 20, 2004 10:47am
Steve, Host
Regarding your comment about the center console only having enough storage for half a dozen CDs, I think I found a good solution: Above the sun visors there are auxilliary sun visors (I guess for when you use main visors for the side window, you can also use those for the front--if you're a vampire). Whatever they're for, buy a Case Logic CD holder which I think holds ten or so CDs ($10 at Target), and attach that via the velco straps to the upper visor. When you have the main visor up it's barely visible. I bought two, one holds CDs on the driver's side, and the other holds a mix of CDs and DVDs on the passenger side. I have an 04 YXL, but I'd assume your DXL also has this feature. I opted not to get a sunroof because I'd rather have the headroom. That could be a space-limiting factor if you have one.
I'm done with the hard CD cases. Even in my house I keep all the DVDs and CDs in nylon folders. The cases just take up too much space, and they don't protect the media any better anyway.
Have you cut into the other side? It seems there would be even more room over there since there is no jack on that side, though I'd have to figure out a creative way to conceal the opening (I didn't have room for my fire extinguisher).
Yes, I like to be prepared. You should see what I kept in my helmet bag while flying around Iraq.
Last week I took it a step further. Baer just released the illumispeed upgrade. Basically it is a rotor and caliper upgrade. The eradispeed is only to upgrade the rotors while using the stock calipers. Although the original upgrade made a difference in stopping the caliper upgrade made a huge difference.
The eradispeed upgrade only upgrades the rotors to 14" while still using the stock calipers and pads. This system doesn't make full use of the 14" rotors. The stock calipers only grab about 2/3 of the new rotor. The illumispeed upgrade uses the new Baer calipers which use almost the entire rotor for stopping.
I am extremely happy with the new brake performance not to mention the great looks of the new red painted calipers and large rotors.
If Michelin has a 22' tire for SUV's, I am not aware of it.thompson22
Denaliman--would you be willing to share how much the Baer Illumispeed brake package goes for? Just curious, since the only other "widely" available package similar to it is the Brembo kit, which goes for an arm and a leg; also, does the Illumispeed kit include stainless-steel braided brake lines?
Baer has another upgradable system that costs much more and uses a four piston system. I opted against it because of the cost and I didn't need that much performance.
I would highly recommend the illumispeed upgrade to anyone especialy to those who tow or often have a full car load.
http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?n=178&sid=178&a- rticle=7703
Some people are saying these are '06s, others say '07s. Not sure.
Depending on what state you live in, look up and contact Americas Tire Company (in CA) or Discount Tire Company (in the other states). They will be able to tell you what size tire will fit on your truck and what tires are made in that size.
I stayed with 18's as I take my XLD into rough roads and wanted a little more sidewall (Michelin LTX Pilot). It is a pretty non aggressive tread but surprisingly gets as much traction in the snow as my BF Goodrich All Terrains did on my past truck. It is pretty soft rubber but I have 37k miles on them and should make it through winter and into the summer (about another 10-15k).
I was going through alot of tire options when I was making my decision. Traction in the snow/mud and looks where important. The company listed above actually mounted two tires/rims in different sizes and put them on my truck to see the looks. There prices are good and they will match Costco if they have a better deal.
I don't work for them, they have just provided me with really good service and assistance with choosing tires. You just have to find the guy with the most experience.
Since there was not little storage compartment over there, I am not sure if there are other things hidden in it.
On the drivers side there was area for a rear speaker which was not the case on the passenger side. I would not be surprised if there was a couple of computers hidden in there. I really need to pose that question to the dealer.
The only way I thought to access it was to cut out the little tray and make it like the jack access tray. But that is a little harder to do and keep it clean.
If you figure something out let me know. Next time I am in by the dealer, I will try to find out if there is anything in there.