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GMC Yukon / Yukon Denali



  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Denali SUVs have LQ4, Sierra Denalis ('04+?) have LQ9.
  • jasjas Posts: 115
    The Denalis have had the LQ4 as noted (approx 315hp) where the Escalades and some others have had the LQ9 (approx 335hp). The way I understood it from my GM buddies is that the LQ9 was basically the same engine with a different cam and tuned for premium. Not sure if they had to do some other mods either for the higher hp or possibly different redline.

    My LQ4 has more towing torque and power in a bigger vehicle (XL) than my previous 5.7l and I like the fact that I can run low grade fuel without any problems.

    I got 200k miles out of my 5.7l and I am sure I will get the same out of this motor. With 45k miles, I still do not burn a drop of oil.

    I am confident that the LQ4 is a good motor. I am sure they don't advertise the differences as the LQ4 will do the job, and the keep the higher hp model for the Cadillac and the specials that require a little bit extra.
  • tmc3873tmc3873 Posts: 2
    I have a 01 yukon with 60 k miles. The steering wheel is alittle loose and it makes a clicking noise when shaken back and forth. A dealership told me the problem sounds very complicated and the truck will be there for a long time along with a big bill. Does anyone know anything about this? Should it be and easy fix? it doesn't click that bad.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Medford, ORPosts: 77
    Well, if this is the proverbial "steering clunk" everyone is talking about both here and at the Tahoe site, there is a service bulletin on it. We had this done under warranty. They have to replace an intermediate steering shaft. Doesn't take long however. I took our '03 in at 8:00 and it was ready by noon.
  • newtogmcsnewtogmcs Posts: 1
    How's it going all? Im a first time SLT owner and have a question. My yukon came stock with the xm radio and antenna but am wanting to upgrade to maybe an indash dvd player with xm capabilities. My question is would the antenna be compatible with a new xm radio or would i have to get a new one? Thanks for the help on a dumb question.
  • jasjas Posts: 115
    Dido on my '03. The longest time was waiting for the new intermediate steering shaft, which in the mean time the greased the old one and it was fine during the wait period.

    It sounds like your SA might be clueless.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    And FWIW--it is possible to tweak (or more technically, reprogram) the PCM so as to improve the performance of an LQ4 to be just about the same as that of an LQ9. I have done this (reprogrammed PCM) w/ my DXL and it definitely has a little more oomph to it...not supercharger-like oomph, but definitely noticeable.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I want to say that it can be done, if only because I read in another (non-Edmunds) forum of someone else doing exactly what you plan to do; you might need an adapter or modify the factory XM antenna connector but I believe it can be done.

    Or, if you are happy with (or, willing to keep) the factory XM--you can get the indash DVD player (no XM capabilities, of course) and an adapter to route the audio from the DVD player through the factory head unit to the factory speakers...and you'd still be able to listen to the factory XM.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    The General builds good engines and trannys and Denalis have nice upgrades. RE: the LQ9 engine. The LQ9 has the heavier, better con rod and the LQ4 will burn regular gas. Take your pick. While both engines should take you out to 200K even witth massive upgraded torque convertor, I think you will need at least one tranny rebuild to hit 200K.

    Now if the General would just come into the 21st century with rack and pinion steering, decent handling, and trash the 15 year old pick up truck interior on these 50K SUVs, I'd be happy.
  • halo1halo1 Posts: 1
    I had a similar problem with my 2002 yukon. they replaced the universial joint just below the steering wheel. It felt real bad over bump's.
  • donahuesdonahues Posts: 36
    My 02 Denali has a sloppy wheel with a clunky feel (no sound) especially around corners at mid-speeds (20mph). How much has the steering shaft replacement been running? I am at 50k miles, so sadly I assume this is not a warranty issue.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Medford, ORPosts: 77
    Don't know the costs since it was covered under warranty. But, labor shouldn't be more than a couple of hours.
  • peiomipeiomi Posts: 20
    What kind of real world, not what they say on the sticker, mileage are you guys getting? I am interested in both cuty and highway. Thanks.
  • Peiomi I cannot tell you my city and highway miles but I do track it every fill up. I drive approximatly 15k miles a year and approximatly 20-25miles a day is on the highway. I am preety had on the peddle so I may not be a good example for you but I thought this might be of some use to you. I am usually averaging 70 - 75 mph on the highway and on the city roads no more than 10 mph over the limit. I have a Yukon with the 5.3 liter moter and I run full synthetic oil in it. In 2002 My best Mpg on a tank was 17.39 worst 12.51 and I averaged 14.38 for the year. 2003 best 16.51 worst 11.75 avg for year 14.1 2004 best 16.19 worst 10.94 avg 13.79. I have never pulled any thing with it and when I did get the 17.39 it was with 4 adults in the Truck and luggage on a 400 mi highway trip. Hope this helps Mike P.
  • gmfan007gmfan007 Medford, ORPosts: 77
    Our '03 SLT (short bus), 4WD, 5.3L, 3.73 axle gets around 18 highway and 14 city. Pulling our 27', 6300 lbs. trailer drops it to around 14 highway average at 55 mph. Not real impressive numbers these days, but this engine runs great on regular fuel. A lot of SUVs out there require premium fuel and/or don't have the towing capacities. Our 5.3L pulls our trailer effortlessly.
  • dcdchaudcdchau Posts: 41
    My 02 Yukon recently has this noise. It sound like the air leak or air rushing some where under the hood. With the cold engine, it does not have the hissing noise until I drive 3-5 miles distance. The noise is very obvious when starting from park and continues to 35-40M/H then it disappears. It comes back at about 65-70M/H. So far the dealer have changed the PCV and it does not help. Then they said it's the air rushing through the throttle body???. I don't believe it as this was never like that for over 34K... Hey Forum, if anybody out there who has the same problem and know the fix, or TSB... Please post.

    Thank you in advance.
  • madfinnmadfinn Posts: 2
    I've got a 98 Yukon with an interior light problem. If the Dome Override button is out, the interior lights go on, and stay on, and never shut off (with the button out, they are supposed to go on only when a door is open, then go off after the door shuts).

    Anyone have any ideas about fixing this?
  • Do you have your dimmer dial turned all the way up forcing them on?
  • kcboomerkcboomer Posts: 2
    I currently own a '03 Envoy with a 3.73 ring & pinion, 4WD and I'm getting average 19 MPG Hwy (best 21 MPG). I'd like to get something bigger...
    I'm seriously considering buying a new 2005 Yukon Denali under the current "employee pricing."

    My only concern in HWY MPG. I know what the EPA figures are and would REALLY like to know what you owners are TRULY seeing on the highway "without towing a load behind you" and what ring & pinion you have.

  • denali856denali856 Posts: 118
    I have an '02. Don't know what the final drive ratio is -- it only had one that year -- but I generally get about 15-17 in 'local' driving, where I spend some time on surface roads, and 18+ on long all-interstate trips.
  • madfinnmadfinn Posts: 2
    nope, dimmer is down. I have a Suburban with the same light switches, etc, so I'm familiar with the proper position of each switch, and everything is in its proper position.
  • denxl04denxl04 Posts: 2
    I recently had the backup camera installed in my '04 Denali XL. Works great but the guy who installed it scratched the screen. He tried to use some plastic buffing cream on it but the scratch was too deep. Any ideas on how to fix? Is the screen replaceable? What to do?

  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    No amount of buffing cream in the world is gonna fix that scratch if it's as deep as you say it is, but in any case--why would YOU be concerned as to how/if it can be fixed? I mean, the installer damaged it--if you can't live with that scratch, why not make him pay for a new one?
  • arriearrie Posts: 312
    Lights are on when one of the doors is open, i.e. when the light control switch in just one door is closed. The switch for each door open as a door is closed and closes as door is opened (could work opposite too). Closed switch connects wires and lights come on.

    You probably have a bad switch in one of the doors. The switch doesn't open when door is closed and leaves your interior lights on. Check all switches, that's where the problem most likely is.

  • sagemajorsagemajor Posts: 7
    I have been trying to find out how hard it would be to put a Double DIN nav system into a 05 Yukon, I don't really like the slide out ones and the Pioneer is about $400 less for the Double Din vs the single din one. So if I spend $400 on parts, it will cost the same but I will like the looks much better. Does anyone know where I can get dash parts to allow me to do this?

  • tsandovaltsandoval Posts: 7
    Anyone know if the either unit sits taller than the other?

  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    I didn't check all the various models, but apparently the Yukon is a little bit taller than the XL (Height: 76.5 in vs 75.7 in. for the XL).

    Maybe this Comparator link will work.

    Steve, Host
  • kcboomerkcboomer Posts: 2
  • berobberob Posts: 35
    I just bought an '04 4WD Yukon and I'm trying to make sense of teh AWD Stabilitrak System and the transfer case buttons. The owner's manual confuses me more than it helps me. Am I correct in assuming that I will basically be driving in AWD mode or 4Lo mode at all times with one of those two buttons lighted and I then can turn the Stabilitrak System on or off as I see fit? What's the neutral setting for and how do I get into it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    Thank you.
  • denali856denali856 Posts: 118
    I'd suggest posting this on the '4WD & AWD systems explained' board. There are a couple of guys over there who are very knowledgeable.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Here's the link:

    4WD & AWD systems explained

    Steve, Host
  • I bought an 05 two weeks ago and then had large wheels/tires placed without any research (in in Los Angeles , CA) it's a must out here. Anyway I new I would have decline in MPG (15 city avg) but I could feel the weight, Im I harming anything?
    I would appreciate your help have stock tires on stand-by to replce if needed.

    thanks :shades:
  • ocmike3ocmike3 Posts: 232
    Obyone - I'm looking at purchasing trim kits for a couple of our vehicles. I've been going through several websites. I noticed you used exoticwooddash. I liked their use of the 3M adhesive, but was curious as to how the overall application was and if it really looked close to an original install when you were done?

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 7,841
    After I read your question, I took a walk outside to take another closer look at the trim. If anything the kit looks a little darker than the stock. Then again, the stock trim was exposed to UV for a bit longer than the kit. It isn't really noticeable. The color and grain are spot on.

    I had purchased the entire kit. I believe you can order variations if you chose to do so. Unfortunately you have to order the complete kit to get the parts that cover the peeling areas. I didn't install the big piece that covers the center console cover as I thought it would have an overkill effect. One thing to remember when installing is that the cleaner the surface the better. You get a small cotton gauze to clean the areas you plan to install. I had used a half dozen cotton balls and some isopropyl alcohol to further clean the surfaces as that small piece of cotton gauze that comes with the kits wears our rather quickly.

    The kit looks great and has the appearance of a factory install. As I stated earlier, I wouldn't install every trim piece as it would be overkill. If you decide to get the kit just map the pieces out and decide which you would want to install to enhance the appearance.

    Hope this helps.
  • tunemantuneman Posts: 2
    I have 2002 Yukon Denali and my rear radio control panel is not working. Does anybody have any ideas? I cannot seem to find a specific fuse for the panel so I am wondering if it is the panel itself. Thanks.
  • ocmike3ocmike3 Posts: 232
    Thanks - I really appreciate your first hand experience and insight.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    What do you mean by "had large wheels/tires placed"? Did you buy them after you bought your Yukon or are they factory 20" wheels? Assuming that the stock tire size for an '05 Yukon is 265-70-16, then yes the 305-50-20 tire/wheel is larger overall (circumference-wise) and probably heavier (unless those 20" wheels are forged--as opposed to cast--ones) than the stockers. And unless the PCM has been updated to account for the overall wheel/tire size change, your speedometer will be off. Going to 20" shouldn't cause any really serious issues; braking distance will probably increase a tad but not a big deal as long as you drive a wee bit more conservatively in order to compensate. Many folks have switched to bigger wheels/tires--I'm running 22" wheels myself--w/o any serious negative problems...although in all fairness I did upgrade my brakes all around to Baer Alumasports, just in case.
  • fireman3fireman3 Posts: 3
    Has anyone had any issues with the turn signal flasher clicking constantly? I have replaced the flasher, and checked all fuses with no results. I am leaning towards the switch in the column or possible a harness, but would like to know if anybody has had this problem and what they may have done to fix it
  • thanks tdoh, I do mean I purchased after I orig. bought the truck. How do I update my PCM is this something I can do or do I need to go to the dealer? I also am lookig to upgrade brakes in future.

    thanks again. :shades:
  • kmcteaguekmcteague Posts: 1
    2004 Yukon 2WD with ~25000miles.

    The message "Stablity System Disabled" or "Service Stability" began a few weeks ago along with activation of the "system" while on a dry road, gentle curve, 35-45mph.

    Dealer changed a yaw sensor, reprogrammed and also changed the intermediate shaft (noise).
    The "Service Stability" msg returned within 20miles.
    Another yaw sensor was installed...same issue!

    Now the dealer and GM customer service have told me there is no more to be done!!!

    NOT an acceptabe solution.

    Any advice...
    Wanna buy a car???

    K. :lemon:
  • drabbantdrabbant Posts: 1
    I have 03 Yukon. The front A/C is not responding to my changing the fan speeds. It is stuck on a low to medium setting. It also stays on a few minutes after I turn off the vehicle. Do you have any idea what this might be?
  • frank310frank310 Posts: 45
    I had this same problem. I installed new LED tail lights on my 05 DXL and a 2 months later the right turn signals flashed constantly. I unplugged the rear tail light which plugged into stock sockets, and found rust in the connection. I cleaned the socket as best as I could in installed a regular/stock bulb and it did not work. Cleaned some more and it has worked for several months now. I still can't get the LED lights I purchased to work.
  • boricua66boricua66 Posts: 8
    My wife is on a cross country trip. She just went and put gas on my 2005 denali... It started acting up, she had it towed to the dealer and they said the gas tank was full of water. It cost me almost $350 to get it drained and flushed. Of course now the gas station is saying its not their fault. Besides their costumer representative.. who else can I contact to help me with this matter?
    Thanks in advance for any assitance...
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    The state where the gas station is located should have a weights and measures division; try complaining to them and maybe they'll investigate or refer you to some agency that can.

    Steve, Host
  • boricua66boricua66 Posts: 8
    Thank you very much Steve
  • This information applies to 2005 Cadillac, Chevrolet, and GMC Full Size Utilities with RPO JL4.

    Owners may comment on a Stability System Disabled or Service Stability message with DTC C0455. This concern may be caused by bent terminals on the SWPS (Steering Wheel Position Sensor).

    Remove the SWPS connector and inspect for bent terminals. In most cases, the terminals can be straightened without having to replace the sensor.

  • akao1029akao1029 Posts: 1
    I am in the process of buying a 03 Denali and on the list of options is says D&P and i was just wondering what does that mean/stand for. I would also like to know is there some kind on monitor on the 03's that tell you your EPA, how many miles till empty and those kind of economy things. Also I noticed that on the 02's there is a little screen above the 6-disc CD changer is that the screen that tells your EPA and what not and also how come there isn't any on the 03's and + or did they just put it somewhere else. Sorry for the noob questions. I'm new to Denalis use to have a Camaro but any help would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
  • erinsquarederinsquared Posts: 178
    After about 30,000 miles, my Denali had a poor idle and would surge especially under load (i.e. A/C on). The solution to this is simple and this should be a part of your regular maintenance on the vehicle. Remove the air intake duct hose from the front of the engine where it attaches to the throttle body to expose the throttle body. Spray a throttle body cleaner generously around the edges of the butterfly valve with it closed. Now pry the butterfly valve open and spray generously. As far as I can tell, there is no separate idle circuit for this vehicle, and idle speed is maintained by the hairline opening of the butterfly valve. Problem is that blow-by oil (from pcv valve?) enters the top right of the throttle body (as you look at it) and I believe this oil cakes/coats the surface of the throttle body until it blocks some of the throttle openning - hence affecting idle. Probably should be done minimum every 30,000 miles.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Dealer can do it (dunno if they'll charge you--probably, since you bought the wheels after vehicle purchase), or you could "invest" in a Hypertech Power Programmer III or similar (allows you to modify shift points, shift firmness, tire size, gear ratio--among other things) and do it yourself. If you want a bit more oomph out of your truck, you could look into one of the various online custom tuners that offer PCM reprogramming/retuning services--I went this route and let's just say that my DXL is definitely a bit more peppier than stock in the performance category.

    As far as brake upgrades go--depends on how much money you're willing to spend; you could spend very little by just upgrading the pads, a bit more by also upgrading to larger-sized rotors (typically requires matching pads and caliper relocation brackets as a result of increase in rotor size), and a lot more by upgrading the calipers as well (this route usually involves upgrading the entire braking hardware as a whole--caliper, rotor, pad--hence the much higher cost involved...some kits also include stainless steel braided brake lines). Myself, I went with the Baer Alumasport brake kit front and rear and it performs much better than stock, both in pedal feel and actual braking performance.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Diagnostics and Prognostics? I dunno...EPA? I know that EPA stands for Environmental Protection Agency (among other possibilities?) but haven't seen that acronym referenced in the owner's manual as far as a vehicle monitoring system telling you your fuel economy and miles remaining until empty is concerned. IOW--I can't say I've heard of a vehicle monitoring system that tells you your "EPA".

    In any case, on '03+ GM (re?)introduced the DIC and placed (relocated?) its display right underneath the drive selector indicator in the lower center of the gauge cluster; '03 and '04 included average and instant (i.e., real-time) mpg readings, and range (i.e., estimated miles remaining until empty). IIRC in '05 GM took away the instant mpg readout from the DIC, among other things (don't know if they took away all fuel economy readouts but I do know they definitely took away the instant one).
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