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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)

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Comments

  • russskirussski Member Posts: 47
    Do they celebrate Valentine's Day in Russia or is it still March,8. Just curious
    Thanks....Vitaly
  • chaynes1chaynes1 Member Posts: 27
    I, too, am a rocket scientist, so I "pick" at the technical aspects of all my vehicles. I noticed that my 03 XS had a nonlinear response to initial throttle application ("tip-in"). A little push on the accelerator produced almost nothing, then a little more produced a lot of movement. Not good for maneuvering in tight spaces! I brought this up with the service manager at 15K and he said that some vehicles (by VIN) had throttle control modules ("TCM") that were out of calibration at the factory and that it could be recalibrated if requested. It requires about 3-4 days and qualifies for a loaner vehicle. At 30K, I decided to have it done at the same time as the transmission recall inspection. I'll pick my Forester up tomorrow (I've really missed it!), so we'll see if there is any difference in the throttle linearity. I appreciate Subaru volunteering to make this fix. BTW, the loaner Baja showed some of the same traits that had concerned me about the Forester (driveline lash at low rpms in drive and the infamous "jerk" from reverse to drive on a quick shift. I'm finally "at peace" with its zits.
  • mjsnd80mjsnd80 Member Posts: 48
    My 03 XS has developed an annoying click click click when running. At first, it sounded like the valves (?) when it's cold and has no oil circulation yet.

    But it lasts too long. The Click click click click speeds up and down with engine rpm.

    The oil level is fine.

    The car has 33,500 on it - and I'm bumping up against the warranty soon.

    Could this be the timing belt? I've heard these need regular replacing.

    = = = = =

    Another, infrequent problem is a very high-pitch, constant beeeeeeeeeep. After I've run the car a while and park it, it occasionally makes this noise for about 5 minutes. It is somewhat alarming, but, of course, would not do it for the dealer. I hope the computer is not close to frying... that would be huge!

    Any suggestions for either problem are much appreciated.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Won't be the timing belt; they don't require replacement until around 105,000 miles.

    Going out on a limb here, I believe your '03 2.5 SOHC naturally-aspirated engine has hydraulic valve lifters. The sound you describe is very often caused when the very small oil passages in a hydraulic lifter get blocked with carbon or other contaminant. Then, the lifter partially collapses, leaving more valve clearance than intended. If so, your 'click-click' noise results when the lifter hits the valve after taking up the excess clearance.

    Sometimes these problems clear themselves up over time, sometimes not. If yours persists, one cheap approach would be to add a can of high-detergent oil additive, in the hope that it might dissolve the contaminating build-up. If that fails, the hydraulic lifter will probably require replacement.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    chaynes1: what year is your Forester? I also think my wife's Legacy has a non-linear throttle. It may be intentional, but I wonder if the mod helps yours, whether it would help hers. Let us know?

    Beyond what JB mentioned, we did a "throttle body service" on our 626 because the fuel system was clogged up, and it made a world of difference. The main symptom for us was a severe hesitation.

    -juice
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Zman1 was a minivan driver, but hasn't been around for a long time now. Apparently Zman2 is still available as a user id, if someone is lurking and wants to register. Maybe a lurker named Karl - may as well keep us all confused :-)

    Steve, Host
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Why not? I always like to hear about other customs. Maybe just move it over to the cafe. What's with March 8 and Valentine's??

    Greg
  • tazerelitazereli Member Posts: 241
    Does anyone here have an idea on how to bypass the foglights on our '02 Forester? I would like to be able to use them at any time, not just with the low beams. I feel it should be my choice as to when my foglights go on not some lawyer or engineer employed by Subaru. Other makes at least allow you to turn them on without the headlights.
    Just so all of you know I dont runaropund with them on at all times just to be cool. THey come on in inclement weather (rain, fog, snow) and when I want to see the side of the road clearly. I live in a deer infested area of S.E. PA and like having at least a little bit of more warning. I am trying to teach my wife to do the same.

    Regards,

    Kyle
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    OK. We celebrate both them.

    Regards.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    The fog lights are connected in parallel with low beam circuit. Speaking in schematic tongue, you can cut the wires close to the fog lights, and connect them with the separate circuit through "+" on the battery, the safety fuse (cut-out), the saloon button and "0" on the car body. A skilled mechanic will manage this work easily and it will take him about an hour. In addition to this he is able to cut the circuit at the convenient place, somewhere in the saloon, and then the old circuit serves and no need to use tons of new wires.

    Hope it helps.
  • raybearraybear Member Posts: 1,795
    Are for close-order work, they actually can distract you from what's down the road.
  • dede2897234dede2897234 Member Posts: 6
    To mjsnd80,

    I have owned a 2003 Subaru Forester XS with the factory security system for the past 16 months. I too have noticed during the last two winters a constant high pitched noise coming from the engine bay (this noise comes and goes but is now constant). This noise occurs after I have been driving this vehicle for 30 plus minutes in cold night-time weather (below 32 degrees Farenheit) in the city or highway. The noise comes from the engine while I'm driving and after I park and shut off the engine. The noise goes away about 30 to 60 minutes after I park and shut off the engine in my garage. One night, late December 2003, I took the front grille off. Then, I took a Radioshack sound level meter and guided it throughout the engine compartment and in front of the radiator. The strongest reading I got from the sound meter (76db) came from the keyless entry buzzer hanging in front of the radiator. A few days later, I took the car to my local Subaru dealership (since it was forcasted to be below 32 degrees Farenheit outside). After parking the car in their garage, the keyless entry buzzer was making the high pitched noise again. I let the service manager verify the noise while I took apart the front grill. Then, I took the sound meter an pointed it to the keyless entry buzzer in front of the radiator. I showed the service manager the high reading (76db) on this device. He concurred that the keyless entry buzzer was defective. The service manager ordered a new keyless entry buzzer for me. I came back a few days later and their service department installed the new part. I have not heard that high pitched noise since then. As a result, I think you should take your Forester to your Subaru dealership (when it is below freezing outside) and let the service manager hear that high pitched noise coming fron the keyless entry buzzer after taking off the front grill (the removal instructions are in the manual). I hope this helps.

    Dave
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    I wouldn't take issue with a desire to make your foglights operable with headlamps completely OFF, but I gather that you mainly want to also be able to use them together with high beams. This is unwise and completely counterproductive. Foglights apply an intense, low, short-range light to the road immediately in front of the vehicle. Their sole purpose is to provide very-short-range illumination in highly-reflective fog conditions when visibility is poor. Proper use of foglights demands dramatically reducing vehicle speed so that one doesn't drive beyond the limited range they are designed to provide.

    High beams are altogether different. They concentrate their light at the farther distances, consistent with the higher speeds they're designed to enable. They deliberately do not put much light on the pavement directly in front of the car, because that would cause the driver's pupils to contract and become less sensitive to the weaker reflections from distant objects and hazards.

    If you rewire your foglights so that they can come on with the high beams, you in effect reduce the all-important range of your high beams by reducing your eyes' sensitivity. Not at all a good idea.

    If you truly want to supplement your high beams, the only recommended approach is to add driving lights - not to use foglights at the same time.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I guess when it's sunny out, and the entire roadway is lit up by natural light, your pupils are so contracted and insensitive to objects afar that you are just staring at the scoop on the hood instead of the road ahead ;)

    My take... the more light at night the better! (I have a simple mind...lol)
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    I'll take that as humor, not as a serious reply. Night vision, and what improves it, in no way relates to daytime vision in bright lighting. I assume you know this.
  • gened1gened1 Member Posts: 256
    No matter what light I drive in I still can't see the hood scoop on my 02 L!!!
    (Hee Hee)
    Gene
  • tazerelitazereli Member Posts: 241
    what are some good sources of driving lights and where would be a good place to put them?

    Regards,

    Kyle
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, humor. But, more light at night is still better than less light. Best illumination I ever had on a car, believe it or not, was with a combination of sealed beams and fog lights on my old Supra Turbo. I never, EVER, had to use high beams on that car, that's how well the road was illuminated. And with headlight washers, the lighting was always bright and clear.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Hmmm, interesting argument and I'm not sure which is correct. I can see Jack's point about the light from the fog lights being reflected back and decreasing your night vision but Sam's more light is always better logic also would seem to make sense.

    Regardless of which is right, I think any perceived gain from using your fogs at night is inconsequential. Yes the area immediately in front of you is better illuminated but I don't think that's going to help you when you're traveling at 55 mph. You won't have enough time to react if you did spot something. Also, I think that the argument could be made that having the fogs on might inadvertently cause the driver's eyes to focus closer in where the illumination is better vs in the distance where he'll have more time to react.

    -Frank P.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    "More light is always better" is far too simplistic. When the added light is in the wrong places, it is unarguably counterproductive. Bright lighting on the road immediately in front of your vehicle diminishes your eyes' sensitivity to the weaker light reflected back to your eyes from distant objects illuminated by your high beams. This is precisely why properly-aimed high beams never put intense light on the ground close in front - this is not a design flaw or oversight. Any reputable lighting manufacturer will agree, and so will your optometrist or ophthamologist.

    As for adding aux driving lights to a Forester:

    what are some good sources of driving lights

    Daniel Stern Lighting - do a Google search on that. He's a lighting consultant who has testified before Congress, and he genuinely knows his stuff.

    and where would be a good place to put them?

    On a Forester, that is an excellent question without any really good answers. My preferences, in descending order:

    1. Remove the entire stock grille and, carefully using a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel, cut the thick horizontal grille bars out of the integrated surrounding structure. Then replace the heavy-looking bars with tidy, clean mesh across the opening, and mount the driving lights in front of or behind the mesh in the newly-opened-up grille. I think this would also improve the Forester's appearance; the stock grille doesn't do anything for me.

    2. At substantial expense, purchase an aftermarket replacement grille that accomplishes the same as above, but more cleanly. At the moment, the only sources are in Japan, and the cost is probably upwards of $400. Too steep for this skinflint.

    3. A fellow on NASIOC drilled right through the top flat surface of the bumper, continuing through the plastic and down into the aluminum bumper beam. Then, using self-tapping screws driven down into the aluminum, he mounted a pair of driving lights a fraction of an inch forward of the stock grille bars. The lamps are thin, and don't appear (in his photos) to be terribly vulnerable to damage from careless parkers. They actually look quite good there, like a rally car installation, and he says the screws are holding just fine.

    3. Several aftermarket outfits sell a stamped steel light-mount bracket that attaches behind the license plate (using its existing mounting holes); the bracket extends above and to the left and right of the plate, giving mounting locations for two aux lights. I'd have to look at one of these to see whether the resulting light mounts are sufficiently sturdy and ridid so that the lights don't vibrate all over the place.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    All these interesting points of view are concerned with drivers.

    I heard that a bright light, as a rule, attracts wild animals, and they have a peculiarity to remain motionless in the middle of the road looking fixedly at the coming in the opposite direction lights. I vote for Jack's point if even one deer will be saved by less light.

    May be North American deer is more clever then ours.

    BTW, Jack, why don't you sleep at the night?
  • russskirussski Member Posts: 47
    May I add my two cents worth in addition to dnestrs'schematic.
    If I'd use separate circuit, I'd also spliced a RELAY after the switch in order to avoid enormous current draw from the power supply. If relay is not installed you will need large wire gage and dash switch with large current rating,(it would be bulky and not very attractive) otherwise the switch will get very hot and eventually will fail.
  • dnestrdnestr Member Posts: 188
    good idea, it's worth a try.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    FWIW, in Germany, where there are few speed limits and lots of rain and fog, it is illegal to use fog lights unless it is actually foggy and they can only be used with low beams. The theory is that they are of very little value without foggy conditions and interfere with the vision of uncoming traffic on clear nights.
  • russskirussski Member Posts: 47
    The same rule apply for Australia
  • emtemt Member Posts: 39
    Is there anyway to tell by the VIN number that a Forester is either a stick or auto? I am looking at on-line listings and some do not specify which tranny is in the car. I would like to know before I inquire. Looking to buy an 03. Thanks
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    in Germany, where there are few speed limits and lots of rain and fog, it is illegal to use fog lights unless it is actually foggy and they can only be used with low beams. The theory is that they are of very little value without foggy conditions and interfere with the vision of uncoming traffic on clear nights.

    Although I ordinarily prefer fewer laws to more, I can't tell you how much I wish this rule applied in the USA. All of these "look how cool I am" loons who leave their foglights on all the time are incredibly thoughtless and irritating.

    They are FOG lights, people. They are not to be used otherwise.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Actually, the fogs do help illuminate the area to the sides, if you're making a turn or parking.

    I usually turn them off, though.

    Some luxury cars have what they call "cornering lights", that come on when your turn signal is on, and only the side you're turning towards.

    -juice
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    7th digit of the VIN indicates build transmission. J = 5sp MT, R = 4EAT.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Some luxury cars have what they call "cornering lights", that come on when your turn signal is on, and only the side you're turning towards.

    Another approach that's beginning to crop up is to move the headlamp beam left or right corresponding to which direction you're steering. Not sure why this hasn't become more widespread.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Those are interesting, but I always wonder - what are the odds of them getting stuck or misaligned? It just has to be executed carefully and with high quality, durable parts.

    -juice
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    ...certainly aren't a new idea. The big single central Cyclops headlight on Tucker cars worked that way.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I'm a "look how cool I am" loon according to ballistic ;) What really should be banned, are those REAR fog lights that the Volvos, Audis, and a few others have. Now THOSE are annoying - looks like the car has one brake light always on. Plus, they do nothing in fog anyway.
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Although I use my fogs only on rainy, snowy, foggy days, a far more dangerous problem is the high mounted, HID lights on many of today's cars/suvs. Even the well executed ones (BMW) flash/blind you when the road is uneven which is a big problem where I live (no street lights, hilly, winding roads).

    Greg
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    No offense intended, but surely you realize how irritating always-on foglights are to every oncoming driver, right?

    Repeat after me: "They're FOG lights...they're FOG lights...they're FOG lights..."
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    HIDs are much worse...my other car is a Miata and some trucks put HIDs exactly at my eye level, so even properly aimed they are a nuisance.

    At least fogs are aimed down, and set low.

    -juice
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Ballistic,

    They are just called Fog lights, they do practically nothing in fog - you cannot drive through dense fog no matter what kind of lights you have - if you can't see more than x feet in front, do not drive. The only purpose they really serve is to light up the perimeter around the front of the car which is great for lower speed driving and making turns. And seeing other's fog lights does not annoy me at all. Improperly aimed headlights, people driving with their high beams on, poorly aligned HID lights, phony HID look-alikes, driving lights aimed it face level - those annoy me. I still consider the old sealed beam lights to be best for illumination. They were tried and true and the same on every car. All these new designs are inconsistent from car model to model, and sometimes do not provide decent illumination.
    Fancy multi-reflector lights just scatter the beams all over the road unevenly. A simple parabolic reflector provides the optimum aim and even diffusion - ask any optical guru.
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    At least fogs are aimed down, and set low.

    But among the many loons who insist on leaving their foglights on when there's no trace of fog for miles around, there are those especially obnoxious types who either raise the aim of their foglights (gotta make 'em more like driving lights, don'tcha know?) or put in high-wattage bulbs - or both.

    Anything that really sears the retinas of oncoming drivers must be a Good Thing...
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    They are just called Fog lights, they do practically nothing in fog

    Wrong. Any automotive light is classified by its beam pattern and the usage it was designed to meet. The names reflect the intended usage; this is not mere semantics.

    Fog lights, by definition, put forth a sharply-cutoff, wide, close-in intense beam. They are strictly to concentrate light in the near distances during fog conditions, reducing scattered reflection (from the fog droplets) as much as possible, while illuminating the shoulders and lane lines. To use these beams when there is no fog condition that demands them is to be deliberately inconsiderate of every other driver on the road.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My $22k luxo '99 Nissan Quest has cornering lights. They are indeed handy, as are the fogs on my Outback (I use them often going up to the ski hill). No one has ever flashed me for using the fogs.

    Steve, Host
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Jack - Tucker - You would be the one to know about that, "Oh master of well known facts known by very few people"

    BTW - my 94 Sable had cornering lamps, and they worked great. I really miss them sometimes. I like the fogs on my Forester XT a litle more than the 03 OBW's.

    Larry
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    As I recall the lights turned with the steering wheel.

    One of the new premium brands now has that feature too. I'm not sure which one, other than I think it is either German or Japanese. I remember reading that recently.

    Bob
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    "They do nothing in fog". Wrong. One thing I especially like about the Forester is its great fog lights. I have driven in very dense fog, and you do have to go slowly (and, believe it or not, sometimes fog comes up AFTER you have been somewhere and you have to drive home!). If you use high beams in fog or snow, you are blinded instead of illuminated, whereas the low aim of fog lights allows you to proceed safely, albeit slowly.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
  • mckeownmckeown Member Posts: 165
    Had 2 standard headlights mounted on the highest part of the fender. Then a center mounted one (like my 82 Subaru) but in the hood. But unlike my 82 subaru, the center one turned as you turned the steering wheel. Preston Tucker was a 'geek' like Ralph Nader, Way Way ahead of his time. The light turned because his facts from known accidents showed most happened on roads at the corners. So he surmised if you could see a little better around the corner, the better chance you had to make a last minute manuver to avoid an accident. His cars also came standard with 'crumple zones', a reinforced passenger compartment, reinforced knee and leg panels in the front, seat belts and a rear drive/rear engine design to improve traction in the snow belt. Engine by the way was an opposed flat 6 cylinder...Sound Familiar..
    Our neighbor had one back in the late 50's, early 60's. Too bad he didn't keep it, only 50-60 were made. It now would be worth a small fortune. But he couldn't keep it running. Parts were scarce by the early 60's. People then thought the Corvair was every bit as good then also (rear drive, rear motor) but look what happened to that.....Enough living in the past....Back to the Future......2004...
  • akasrpakasrp Member Posts: 170
    New license plates just arrived.
    Anybody got an ingenious way to dampen the rattle of the back plate against the hatch as it closes?
    Thinking maybe I'll superglue or double-back tape a thin strip of ensolite high density foam running horizontally about 2/3 of the way down on the backside of the plate - rather than just sticking the plate to the hatch itself.
    Thoughts?

    -srp
  • shoedog27shoedog27 Member Posts: 5
    Our 2003 Forester had a lot of trouble starting in the very cold weather we have had in New England this year. We had it towed to the dealer after we could not get it started who told us we had quite a bit of water in the gas tank. So much for discount gas stations.

    Put 2 cans of dry gas in and then filled it with a premium brand gasoline. Filled it up again with a premium gas,but did not add dry gas. On the 3rd tank added 1 can of dry gas along with a premium gas.

    We are still having some difficulty starting when the weather is cold (around 20 degrees), but haven't had to tow it as it manages to start after a while.

    Any suggestions to getting rid of the water in the tank.

    Appreciate any help.
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    I had a similar problem on my '92 Nissan. I got some stick-on foam weather stripping and fastened it to thr back of the plate. No more rattles, and the foam is still there after 12 years.

    Len
  • hayduke01hayduke01 Member Posts: 128
    How do we know what gas is better, what gas is worse?

    I'm not able to notice any difference in performance depending on where I buy my gas.

    Convenience and cost are the biggest factors, since I'm not convinced that any given brand is better than the next.

    I buy at Sams once in awhile, i.e., when I make one of my rare trips to Sams and if I need gas when I'm there. It's usually about .10 cheaper there than anywhere else.

    Most common stop is a convenience store selling an off brand that's competitively priced. More important than the price, it's on the right side of the street, and it's at an intersection where if I have to stop anyway and the tank is low, I might as well fill up then tank then.

    Has Consumer Reports even done a test on gas?
This discussion has been closed.