By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I am avging around 24 mpg in my daily driving with the roof bars on. The clutch in this car continues to be its biggest downfall, crapppy. Shudders like a green bay packers fan. The car still makes a loud popping sound in between shifts and can be tough to get in reverse.The paint job has really taken a beating. Dont park on the street in lower NYC!!! All in all I think I will buy another Forester when this one finally pisses me off enough. Next one will be a XT
When I replaced the stock tires I ended up going with Michelin Harmony in the stock size. Not bad but pricey at Town Fair Tire in CT.
Have a safe and happy Holiday everyone, Mike
http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/03-51-02R.pdf
The fix is new as of January 03 or so. Even though you are past the 3/36 warranty, Subaru may cover this repair if you call the 1-800 number and talk nicely with them! First step would be to see what the dealer says.
Craig
But they've only been around since 1998 so there aren't too many of those hi milers.
-juice
Len
I was reading in the book that it says to always use the parking break when parking. (I have an automatic.) Is this just an extreme precautionary thing that no one really does that is actually written in every manual for every car (but no one realizes it), or do people actually do this? Is there something about subarus that I don't know--some reason I should actually be using the break?
We moved the front cross bar back a bit so it doesn't block the moon roof view....is this bad? Would it increase wind noise, to have them closer together?
Finally, somewhere else (e-pinions.com?) I read someone complaining about crush washers--having to replace them with new ones after changing the oil. I get my oil changed locally as Subaru is an hour away. I go to Precision Tune and have been going there for a few years, I know them well and I think they treat me well. I would not put them on par with a quickie-oil place. Would they have these crush washers? Or should I get some from the dealer? The person who wrote this suggested that quickie places would just crank the old ones back on and ruin the threads or something (it's probably obvious that I don't really know what I'm talking about here...Please help me understand...)
I took my cross bars off of my XT. To me it looks better without them. Moving yours shouldn't be a problem. As for noise just listen. If it makes any just try moving them a bit.
If it was me yes I'd buy some crush washers & keep them in the glove compartment for those trips to the oil change emporium. If the crush washer is reused it may drip a bit, but it's unlikely to leak a lot.
Good luck with your new XT.
Chuck
Very annoying; plus I can't help but think it's doing internal damage to the engine guts.
Have taken it to the dealer numerous times, left it overnight and let them listen to it at morning start-up. They say it's "normal" -- even though only some of the cars make the noise.
Anyway.... I met with the Regional Service manager from Subaru of America last Friday morning. He listened, spoke softly to the dealer Servive Manager; and said "Let's bring her in."
That was it. I didn't have to go over the Internet documents I've been printing; no arguments... He could not have been nicer about the whole thing!
The car went in today (about 1,500 miles short of the Powertrain Warranty) and will be in a few days while they tear the engine down and build it back.
THANK YOU to the many folks here who have read and responded over that past several months. I will let you know how it goes - and the results.
If you are after minimum noise, take the crossbars all the way off. Because of the way the side rails taper front to back, I don't think you can get them really close unless they are both near the middle of the car.
I think the crush washers are important, both for sealing and for protecting the threads.
Note that the factory crush washer is painted on to the plug, and many inexperienced DIY'ers and shops don't notice it's even there!! SO be sure your shop properly removes the old washer and puts a new one on during the first oil change.
Craig
I posted a while back about one morning of horrendous piston slap, and now I need to confess my error. The engine has not done it since, and I now think the noise was a shorted spark plug wire due to me cleaning out the engine compartment the day before. No such noise when I started it after cleaning, so why it would short the following morning is still a mystery.
John
The following is my parking procedure following any time I park an auto tranny car. This is all after the car is in the space I want it.
1. Hold down brake pedal
2. Turn wheels towards curb (if applicable)
3. Pull up on handbrake or push in parking brake pedal.
4. Put gear lever in Park.
5. Release brake pedal.
Very simple and I have never had a car roll on me.
The following is how I park a manual tranny car.
1. Hold down brake pedal and clutch
2. Turn wheels towards curb (if applicable)
3. Pull up on handbrake. If car is equiped with parking brake pedal make sure tranny is in neutral, release clutch while still holding down brake pedal and depress parking brake pedal.
4. Put gear lever in 1st or Reverse.
5. Release brake pedal and clutch.
Again very simple and with a spotless parking record. Parking brakes should be used just like breathing, all the time.
Regards,
Kyle
Edit > It's not the pads that freeze to the rotors it's the shoes in the parking brake drums, or the cables that run between the lever & the park brakes.
The only time I don't use them is when it's raining & going to drop below freezing. Normally even in winter I'll use them.
If all the fluid levels are OK, that's probably all it is.
-juice
The work took four full days; and basically entailed an engine rebuild, with new cyl liners and new #2 and #4 pistons. The updated pistons have a Teflon coating to help them move more freely while they reach full operating temperature. Don't know if these upgraded pistons are used in the '05 engines...
I cannot say enough about the high quality service at Patriot Subaru in Saco, ME; and their Service Manager Mark Stevens. He is the polar opposite of the awful, despicable service manager at Maine Mall Motors. (I wouldn't go back there on a bet!)
All in all, I was frankly surprised that Subaru did the whole job; and did it as well as they did. I was basically expecting them to say "sucks to be you..." but was excited when the Regional Service Rep immediately authorized the repairs to correct the Piston Slap problem. No arguments, documents or anything else needed.
And one week later - it's all squared away. A great Subaru experience!
Good luck.. Matt
Brian
"This year, the base engine picks up electronic throttle control and this, along with a new automatic transmission, should make it feel more responsive."
Anybody know anything more about this? The technicals, the real world results, etc.?
Jopopsy
I'm being quoted around 20,900 after taxes for for an X with automatic and no frills whatsover other than some floor mats and splash guards. Seems a bit high- sales taxes are high here at 3.4% though on new cars which is about $600 I think. Unfortuantely the interest is going to be hiked again Tuesday when the Feds meet so it would behoove me to decide soon I think.
Any thoughts on getting a better price other than just demanding it?
thanks!
Back seat size is a big issue for me and one of the biggest reasons the Forester is on the bottom of my shopping list ATM ....
????
if the LATCH system can be used, taking the seat out and re-installing is very simple. Using the lap/shoulder belts is more involved.
-Dennis
Mileage is almost the same, 22/30 vs. 23/30.
Easier to re-sell later on.
That's about it.
-juice
(1) Better cornering?
(2) Better mpg?
(3) Better and smoother ride?
(4) Quieter, less road noise?
(5) Shorter stopping distance?
(6) More fun to drive?
(7) Better traction on wet road?
(8) Longer tire wear, since XT weight spread over wider tire tread?
Any others? I am planning no off roading.
Thanks,
Don Luce
-B
05 LGT
Honestly, I would do this myself if I didn't have all of it saved up with Subaru Bucks. Is this a normal cost for the 30k from your local dealers?
John
Don: I have that size tire. I'll try to answer the questions.
(1) Better cornering? maybe marginally, but wider contact patch may be offset by taller sidewall.
(2) Better mpg? gearing is just barely taller, but your speedo/odometer will read low. So yes, a tiny bit, but you won't notice it because you will actually travel more than the miles indicated.
(3) Better and smoother ride? I think so, you have a taller sidewall for more compliance.
(4) Quieter, less road noise? No, 10mm wider so there is more wind resistance and possibly more rolling resistance.
(5) Shorter stopping distance? Same.
(6) More fun to drive? I think it looks cooler and fills up the wheel wells more. I don't think is makes a noticeable difference in this category.
(7) Better traction on wet road? Not really, a wider tire will actually hydroplane sooner. But it is better on sand or mud, where a wider tire will float and a narrow one would sink.
(8) Longer tire wear, since XT weight spread over wider tire tread? Marginal improvement is possible, they also carry a higher load rating.
What else? You get a tiny bit more ground clearance, but we're talking about 6mm, or about 1/4".
Get 5 new tires so your spare matches. I should have done that, but I was getting new alloys and that would've made the price beyond my budget at the time.
-juice
$510 sounds WAY high. Check out my posting from the Care and Mtce. board from last month:
eps105, "Subaru Crew: Care & Maintenance" #8976, 13 Nov 2004 9:42 pm
Typical price from a Subie dealer is probably closer to $400. Fair price should be closer to $350. For $510, either your dealer is ripping you off or including extra services that are not required by Subaru.
Note, that if the $510 includes transmission fluid flush and change, then it is closer to a fair price, as I recommend that the fluid be changed at 30K rather than just checked, based on my previous experience.
[Edit] Juice beat me to respond to your post -- Note, Juice, that spark plug change on the XS is required at 30K. They are not platinum.
Elliot
You can try to nail them down to doing only what the manual calls for and see if the price drops any. Most of the dealers try to pad their service events to make more money.
If Subarus really cost that much money to maintain for the forst 30K miles, then nobody would buy them!!
Craig
Craig
I guess mainly, is the "good will" of letting the dealer do it going to lead to less warranty hassle down the road? Objectively, it shouldn't, but having a good relationship with the dealer might curry favor.
John
I have a 2004 Forester XS w/ premium pkg with about 6,000 miles on it. I noticed some pinging that happens sporadically during acceleration, especially when I'm going uphill. When the car is idling, I can also feel vibration in the driver's seat that is driving me crazy. If I turn the A/C on or off there is usually a temporary lull in the vibration, then it kicks in again.
Took it to a dealer and they did a test drive with me, able to recreate both problems. When I got the car back they said they had fixed both problems. Told me to be consistent in using quality gas, and suggested that maybe the different driving styles of my husband and myself "confused" the computer. Well, both problems are still there.
Here's the thing-- I chose a Forester X as my rental while they were looking at my car. The rental did the same exact things!
Are these just Forester quirks that I should learn to love? TIA for any feedback or suggestions.
I hate to say it, but many dealer service departments are shady in one way or another. There's almost no point trying to build goodwill with these guys unless you know them personally and trust their work 100%.
Craig
Thanks
Don Luce
If you just want a program that gives directions and plots your position on a map, check out Microsoft's Streets & Trips. The software does not use your position to update directions, etc.
I have both (Streets and Trips is 2003 version). The biggest problem with Garmin's software (nRoute/City Select North America) is that it's not as intuitive in finding addresses that you enter "mostly" correct. Sometimes I have to use Streets & Trips to find an address and then manually find the location on nRoute. With my version of Streets and Trips, you cannot use the GPS unit that came with the Garmin software.
I also installed a feed into my head unit's Auxiliary input so that the my car stereo can take the laptop's headphone output and play it over the stereo (it overlaps whatever else is playing). All you need is the 13 pin DIN plug, a 3.5mm stereo plug-to-RCA cable, and the time to connect them electrically.
Kevin
"This year, the base engine picks up electronic throttle control and this, along with a new automatic transmission, should make it feel more responsive."
Electronic throttle -- Is that similar to Honda's Drive-by-Wire technology? Also, what's up w/ the 'new' auto tranny?
Jopopsy
Craig
I did find out that their $510 fee includes wheel balancing, engine steam cleaning, and a "free" car wash. But, I am sure it does not include Mobil 1 on the oil change.
John
-Frank