If that's the in-dash 6-CD changer/radio/cassette unit! I have the CD player/radio/cassette unit in my '00 Forester S and have often wished for the 6-disc changer on those long business trips. Then again, I shouldn't be too picky as it's the first car I've owned with a CD player ;-) .
Welcome to the wonderful world of Subaru's boxer engine. I have owned three Subarus over the years, from a 1980 BRAT (my first car) to a 1987 DL wagon and now a 2001 Forester S. I can definitely say that the bigger Forester engine certainly has more oomph than its predecessors, but the feel is similar, and so is the (slight) delay.
I am only speeking for manual shift models, which all of mine were. I sometimes think it is an attribute of the engine combined with the way I clutch...who knows...If you're constantly thinking about it and revving the engine a little higher on shifts, I think you can pretty much get rid of it, but who wants to do that all the time?
Wanted some info on the armrest aftermarket. do you get more than, less than, or equal to the center storage the Forester comes with? Where can I find the lowest price on one?
Also, since you guys got a CD player, you might as well burn yourself Aerosmiths greatest hits and crank it up
Gloria, I had a rattle co,ming from the back whenever I turned, sped up or slowed down. I finally found tha the culprit was a can of Fix-a-flat I had put in the back leftcargo area (under the floor)that was banging against the jack. Since yours is coming from the left side you might want to check if you might have anything in there that's banging against the jack. Good luck.
I know this has been on this board,like a kabillion times before, but I cant find the posts. I have 6500 miles on by soobie and at 7500 the general maintanance checkup says they do a tire rotation.
I have not had one done since I've owned the car. Does this mileage seem right? About how often should the tires be rotated?
My manual (01 GT wagon with Bridgestone RE92s) says 7,500 miles. I do it every oil change and thats at 3,000 miles. Can't hurt and Soobs AWD requires fairly even tread depth on all tires.
Wow bit, and I thought I was pretty anal doing it every 6000 kilometers (3728+ miles) ;-). Those large SUV tires/wheels are tougher on my back, heh heh. It's not a Soob though, of course, but I must say that it does keep the tires nice an evenly worn. Do you do a cross rotation or just a front to back rotation?
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Laurie- 7500 is the most frequently used number so you're certainly safe if you stick with that. Some owners who have OCD (not that I'm naming names) rotate them more often but since they do it themselves it doesn't cost them anything. If your wheels are properly balanced and everything is in alignment, you could probably wait and rotate the tires every 15K. However, the basic rule is that the longer the interval between rotations, the more likelihood of one or more tires developing uneven tread wear which will reduce the life of the tire.
I'm lucky in that my dealer has a pre-winter & pre-summer free service program. It involves a number of checks (eg A/C temperature, fluid levels, etc) and tires rotation or mounting. As a result I've had 2 rotations in 12 months with 15,300 km.
I've just changed the tyres on my Outback at 50,000km (about 30000 miles) after they had been rotated every 12500km (about 7500 miles) Wear was consistently even across all tyres at each time i checked so i think this is probably about right.
Hi Liberty Subaru (Oradell, NJ) had a new owners clinic Tuesday night and I brought the 6 CD in dash changer. It was made by Clarion. The Radio on the 2001 Forester L is made by Panasonic. Bob (Service Mgr) told me he would call me Wed. and he did... it will work! He told me I could do it myself or to come in and wait (which I will). Len, I bought my Forester L from Liberty.. also had a great no hassle experience!
Renato- There are a number of after-market options available for the Forester. Of course you're not going to be able to get a moonroof as huge as that on the S+. The most important thing is to go with a reputable shop.
Juice has a moonroof. IIRC he's had it for a couple of years with no problems. Oh yeah, Ross just got a very nice one put in "Rufus" too.
Here's a tip for owners of pre-01 Foresters with the pretty useless "one-stream" nozzle on the rear window washer:
The new cars have a dual nozzle that squirts washer fluid out to the sides, where the wiper blade can grab it. (Older cars, like my '98S, have this single stream that just runs straight down and off the glass, wasting more washer fluid that gets used by the blade.)
Anyway, I've just finished putting in a new '01 style nozzle in my '98. This is a piece-of-cake job, unless you are TOTALLY helpless.
Here's the deal: Order yourself up a new nozzle assembly, Part # 86636FC060. Only $12 at the dealer. (Yeah, I found it cheaper online, but with shipping it cost more...) All this is is a new black nozzle head (the part you see outside the car above the window), and a rubber tube.
To take the old nozzle off, open your hatch back and look at the backside of the hatchback brake light. Carefully use a small screwdriver to pop out the two square plastic screw covers. Remove the two screws beneath them. This will allow you to remove the cover to the brake light.
Once the cover is off, you'll find four more screws you need to take out to remove the brake light assembly. (Two at the level of the light bulbs, and two below.) These are big-headed trim screws, you can't miss 'em.
Once you remove these four screws, the light assembly will dangle freely from a wire. (Just don't yank on it.) Behind the brake light assembly you'll find an access hole to the nozzle in your car.
LOOK AT THE NEW NOZZLE YOU BOUGHT, and you'll see that it's got a plastic spring clip thingy that holds it in the hole in the hatch lid. In the access hole you just exposed, you'll need to reach in (if you've got small fingers like me!) and squeeze the clip under the old one to pop the old nozzle up and out of the hole. Small needle-nose pliers will also do the trick, just be careful you don't scratch the paint.
Once you pop the old nozzle free of the hole, you'll need to disconnect the tube. To access the coupling, pop off the black ovalish plastic plug just above the brake light. DON'T USE A SCREWDRIVER, you'll scratch the paint! A fingernail'll do it. This plug covers an access hole to the brake light wiring and the washer hose coupling.
Just pull off the tube that goes to the old nozzle (yank on the nozzle and you'll see which side of the coupling it is.)
Then just put your new two-hole nozzle in place (make sure you've got the nozzles pointed the right way!), push the tube down to where you can get at it at the coupling, and slide the tube on the coupling.
That's it! Then just reattach the brake light to the hatch with four screws, making sure you haven't pulled the wiring loose from the wire wrap or connector. (I wrapped some new electrical tape around the connection, while I was at it.) Put the cover back on the light with the last two screws, pop the screw covers back on, put the black plastic cover back on the other hole, and you're done.
Give it a test, and I'm sure you'll be pleased with the improved washability of your rear window.
This is a half-hour job, at most. I highly recommend the upgrade.
problem is with a '98 forester. how could the odometer be altered or disconnected. the car obviously has considerably more kilometers than indicated despite initially looking like it had just come out of the factory. there is nothing in the paper trail that indicates mileage and no service records.
Worried about possibility that I have a second dead oxygen sensor in a few months on a very low mileage car!
Love my manual trans Forester. At 4520 miles (March 2001) the Check Engine light (CEL) came on. It stayed on while I fooled with the gas tank cap, gas level within gas tank (filled it from half to full), etc. (Gas cap itself says that you have to tighten it well to prevent CEL. Manual says the same thing. It also says, in different places, to take it to the dealer immediately and to wait for a few trips to see if the light goes out on its own.)
Took it to dealer after a few days; they replaced oxygen sensor under warranty after checking the "misfire codes". The paperwork from the dealer said three codes were found, then later on there are these three strings, which might be the codes: C445171C, UFP22, B445001.
Just returned from a 2 week trip. Fired up the Subaru June 2001, and now the CEL is on again. Mileage is only 5850.
Have only ever put regular unleaded in it. Only from national chain dealers (Exxon, Mobil, etc).
A friend told me it that oxygen sensors are very robust and rarely go bad. If so, then is there anything that could be causing them to go bad (so they are a symptom and not the cause)?
Gas mileage on this car in 100% city driving is around 23mpg.
What kind of milage are you folks getting out of your Geo's? With 28k on the Forester, the outer tread is gone on all 4 of mine. The tires have been rotated each 7.5k miles. I thought maybe I have an alignment problem but all 4 look the same and the car tracks well. Maybe I've taken the curves too hard.
I'm thinking about Mich. Pilots next go around. Anybody have any experience with them? The Geo's are great on wet and dry surfaces but stink in the snow. The Pilots are supposed to be a pretty good balance for all conditions. (read compromise)
- hutch p.s. sorry I haven't been around much lately, the WRX has made me gravitate to the I-Club more. I still check this board regularly .. just haven't posted. Ah, heck .. you don't even have "leaders" anymore
Could someone measure the rear cargo area and make sure it can accomodate a 36"x24"x4 1/2" fold-down dog crate? I'd like to make sure the crate will fit in the back, lengthwise. What's the width of the cargo area at it's narrowest?
We test drove an S yesterday, and I totally forgot to bring my tape measure along.
Hutch- Although I only have 18k on my Geolanders, I fully expect them to last beyond 30k. I suspect with your wear pattern that your suspicions about your driving habits might be correct, especially if you've kept your tires at the recommended pressure. It's common for manufacturers to recommend a lower tire pressure in order to obtain a more compliant ride. One drawback is that the outer tread absorbs more of the vehicle's weight and thereby wears down quicker. Taking curves hard further exacerbates the problem.
I had this same wear problem on a previous vehicle. I probably had 10k miles on the tires when I noticed that the outer tread was wearing while the center tread looked fine. After I upped the pressure the wear was much more even. Unfortunately, in your case, it sounds like it's too late to counteract the wear pattern.
Amanda- The narrowest part of the Forester's cargo area is 36" wide (where the rear strut towers are) and it is 36" deep (with the rear seat up). So your crate should just fit either length or width wise. However, as a precaution, I highly recommend you take the crate with you before you buy and try it for yourself. There's no worse feeling than to have just bought a new car only to find out once you get home that it's unsuitable for one of its intended purposes. Best of luck.
I'm considering getting a Forester (my first car), but I have a few concerns: 1, I live in Vancouver, and have to drive uphill/downhill daily, I'm wondering if the 4 cylinder engine is up to the challenge especially when it snows? 2, How is the reliability record of Subaru? I don't want to get a car that requires small repairs often...
I've had my Forester for 2 1/2 yrs now so I speak from experience.
While it is a 4 cyl. .. it's a big one. 165 hp is getting into 6 cyl territory. I don't think you're gonna have any trouble getting up hills in the snow. As far as reliability goes, Soob's are rated very high .. about on a par with Toyota and Honda. Mine has never been to the dealer for repair, other then scheduled maintenance.
Can someone tell me if there is any difference between the 2001 and 2002 Forester? A dealer told me there is no difference at all. Is that true? Should I just get a 2001 model and save some money?
USA-spec models have only a few details changed from '01. They're added a 2-speed rear wiper, cargo cover is standard, a different green paint is offered, color cladding on S models is slightly different, and the AWD logo on the rear quarter windows has been moved towards the rear of the window. Also the S Premium can now be had with leather, but only with an automatic tranny. That's about it. I would assume the same holds true in Canada.
heard the 15" tires on the L model aren't as good as the 16' tires on the S model. The L tires are P205/70R15. What are some better tires that you can but on to handle better? 205/60R15? Can you doe this? Appreciate you help.
I'm also in Vancouver. Believe me, the Forester is great on the hills and the snow (if you can find some! - snow that is). I did a lot of playing last winter during the tiny snow period and was mightily impressed. I fly fish and find the Forester great on steep logging roads, etc. Reliability was one of the deciding factors in choosing Subaru this time around (my 1st). It will be 1 year this week that I've had Rufus and the only problem I've had was a moderately noisy hatch latch, since repaired. Feel free to contact me if I can help.
kdeb -- Great write up on the nozzle modification. I've been wanting to do that for the longest time as I hate the dribbly rear window washer nozzle on my 98 Forester. Have you tried upgrading the front washers as well?
Hutch -- I replaced my original Geos at 43K miles. They still had a smidgen of tread before become flush with the treadwear indicator. I drive 90% freeway, however. I did notice that my outer edges were a little more worn, but I attribute that partly to my driving.
I replaced my Geos with another set since I liked how they do on wet and dry. They've also been fine in the few times I've driven in snow as well.
When I took my Forester in for a comprehensive alignment job (after I got my new Geos) the tech noticed the outer wear and adjusted the alignment just a tad to promote more even wear. That seemed to have done the trick since treadwear looks dead even so far at 57K miles.
If you didn't mind the lettering, you could flip the Geolandars on your wheels since they're symmertic.
William -- Like Bob wrote, there isn't a whole lot of difference between the 2001 and 2002. One thing you may want to consider is resale value. Is the difference in price big enough to account for the fact that the 2001 is an older model?
Leo -- The culprit on the L is not the wheel size, but more the tire quality. The Duelers aren't very good tires, IMO. You can get much better performance by simply getting better tires even at the same stock size. Other options would include plus zero sizing where you keep the same wheels but go with wider and lower profile tires. The best thing to do, if your budget allows it, is get a set of new alloys and wheels. I think juice got some 225/60R16 for his Forester L and he saw a huge improvement in performance.
Leo: No, you really can't go lower profile on the same wheels, since your speed odometer will be effected, your ground clearance lowered, etc... You may be able to do what is called a "plus-zero", that is, fit slightly wider tires or tires with stiffer sidewalls to improve handling. Width clearance, however, will be a factor.
The better solution is to fit larger rims and lower profile tires. Forester S comes standard with 16x6.5s and 215x60 tires.
I too do not like the Duelers...decent tire, especially if you do lots of off-road, but a bit noisy on the road and a bit squirmy due to the tall and soft sidewalls. I am considering a plus-one package with 16" rims.
Hutch: I am also considering the Pilot XGT H4, but am leaning towards the Yoko Avid T4. Michelin makes very good tires (you get what you pay for...and you pay alot). The Yokos are more of a touring tire (maybe more fitting for the Forester?) vs an all out all-season hi-performance tire. I am looking for better handling as well as quieter ride. I'll be delegating the standard rims/tires for Winter use.
Both www.tirerack.com and www.tires.com can help with fitment guides (for plus-zero to plus-three sizing) and lots of useful info.
The AWD system in your Forester L can only transfer power between the front and rear axles (think front and rear sets of tires). It can not transfer power from left to right.
The reason behind this limitation is that your front and rear differentials are open. Open differentials allow the left and right tires to rotate at different speeds -- something you need to have in order to be able to turn. Unfortunately, an open differential also allows power to "bleed" to the wheel with the least amount of grip. Think of the front of a vehicle with the left tire on ice and the other on pavement. The open differential will allow the wheel on ice to spin freely while the right one stays motionless.
A limited-slip differential allows the left and right tires to turn at different rates, but only up to a certain point (hence the name). At some point, the differential begins to lock, forcing the two tires to turn at the same speed. This setup will allow power to be diverted left and right.
Some Subaru models use a rear differential for added traction. It allows power to be diverted not only front to back, but also left to right on the rear wheels.
Keep in mind that the set up you have in your Forester will help you in 99% of all conditions. The limited slip rear diffy will help in even more extreme situations such as one side of your vehicle is on ice, or you drive very hard.
FYI, the latest VDC system offered by Subaru in the VDC wagon uses open differentials, but can transfer power to any wheel through the clever use of the ABS system.
Just trying to nail down a couple of details before I buy my first Subaru. I want an I forester, but I'll go with the Premium, for the side air bags - I don't want/need the moon roof!
But whining aside, does anyone know if the 6-CD changer can also handle CD-Rs and CD-RWs?
I've already learned quite a bit from the last 500 messages or so - so thanks in advance to all you enthusiast!
I just purchased a 2002 Forester L 2 weeks ago. I'm noticing that there is quite a bit of condensation when it rains on the inside portion of all the windows where the rubber moulding meets the window. I brought it to the car wash and actually had some water on the inside of the windows. Service tells me this is normal but I don't believe it. Anyone else experiencing this. Thanks.
Thanks for the comments on "rubber" .. Tony you have a valid point. The Forester is my wifes car now and she doesn't drive quite as hard as me. The Mich'lns may be overkill.
Tom- I have the 6 disk CD in the WRX. I'm pretty sure it's the same one. I play CD's I've recorded all the time.
Asplundh - check to make sure that your "air source" switch is set to outside rather than recirculate. In humid conditions setting the air source to recirculate can cause moisture to build up inside the car. If it is set to "outside" then the dealer is F.O.S. That is not "normal". (moisture that is .. not dealers being F.O.S. .. that of course is normal)
I second the recommendation by Ken for Dunlops. I replaced Goodyear Gators on my old Probe GT with SP-4000s (Z-rated), resulting in good grip and much better snow traction. I had 30k on these tires when I got rid of the car, and the tires had more than half tread left - not bad for the soft compound.
Mike, I too get the condensation between the side window glass and the rubber gasket. It's annoying, but harmless. However, if you feel that the windows are leaking, that is definitely not normal and should be looked at.
The most effective way to avoid condensation is to run the climate control on auto. The Air con will run from time to time and dehumidify the air in the car. However, do check for any wet patches by pulling back mats etc and make sure that the drains are operation from air inlets.
I recall seeing posts hear about a re-do for the Forester coming in the next year or two. Is there any confirmed info about what year Forester will get a new look? Thanks!
It's me again, thanks for the responses on the condensation. I have an appt. with the service manager on Saturday and he's going to check it. I feel it's more than condensation. It's more like water is actually getting in but we'll see.
I also have a question on the a/c. It doesn't seem to get very cold on my 2002 Forester L. Set at the coldest setting does not come out really cold. Is it the new refrigerants they're using or is it the design.
Also, I wanted to purchase the rubber mats but the salesman said they are on national backorder and it would be a long time. Anyone else hear this.
Comments
Ed
I am only speeking for manual shift models, which all of mine were. I sometimes think it is an attribute of the engine combined with the way I clutch...who knows...If you're constantly thinking about it and revving the engine a little higher on shifts, I think you can pretty much get rid of it, but who wants to do that all the time?
Also, since you guys got a CD player, you might as well burn yourself Aerosmiths greatest hits and crank it up
Did the dealer tell you that over the telephone or did they check it out?
Patti
Try removing the cargo cover and also checking the rear shoulder harness buckle. Surprising how the noise from these can carry through the car.
OCD noise specialist.
Bit
...at 6-7pm Pacific/9-10 pm Eastern. Hope to see you there!
http://www.edmunds.com/chat/subaruchat.html
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I have not had one done since I've owned the car. Does this mileage seem right? About how often should the tires be rotated?
Thanx
~Laurie
bit
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
-Frank P.
Ross
I've just changed the tyres on my Outback at 50,000km (about 30000 miles) after they had been rotated every 12500km (about 7500 miles) Wear was consistently even across all tyres at each time i checked so i think this is probably about right.
Cheers
Graham
Juice has a moonroof. IIRC he's had it for a couple of years with no problems. Oh yeah, Ross just got a very nice one put in "Rufus" too.
-Frank P.
The new cars have a dual nozzle that squirts washer fluid out to the sides, where the wiper blade can grab it. (Older cars, like my '98S, have this single stream that just runs straight down and off the glass, wasting more washer fluid that gets used by the blade.)
Anyway, I've just finished putting in a new '01 style nozzle in my '98. This is a piece-of-cake job, unless you are TOTALLY helpless.
Here's the deal: Order yourself up a new nozzle assembly, Part # 86636FC060. Only $12 at the dealer. (Yeah, I found it cheaper online, but with shipping it cost more...) All this is is a new black nozzle head (the part you see outside the car above the window), and a rubber tube.
To take the old nozzle off, open your hatch back and look at the backside of the hatchback brake light. Carefully use a small screwdriver to pop out the two square plastic screw covers. Remove the two screws beneath them. This will allow you to remove the cover to the brake light.
Once the cover is off, you'll find four more screws you need to take out to remove the brake light assembly. (Two at the level of the light bulbs, and two below.) These are big-headed trim screws, you can't miss 'em.
Once you remove these four screws, the light assembly will dangle freely from a wire. (Just don't yank on it.) Behind the brake light assembly you'll find an access hole to the nozzle in your car.
LOOK AT THE NEW NOZZLE YOU BOUGHT, and you'll see that it's got a plastic spring clip thingy that holds it in the hole in the hatch lid. In the access hole you just exposed, you'll need to reach in (if you've got small fingers like me!) and squeeze the clip under the old one to pop the old nozzle up and out of the hole. Small needle-nose pliers will also do the trick, just be careful you don't scratch the paint.
Once you pop the old nozzle free of the hole, you'll need to disconnect the tube. To access the coupling, pop off the black ovalish plastic plug just above the brake light. DON'T USE A SCREWDRIVER, you'll scratch the paint! A fingernail'll do it. This plug covers an access hole to the brake light wiring and the washer hose coupling.
Just pull off the tube that goes to the old nozzle (yank on the nozzle and you'll see which side of the coupling it is.)
Then just put your new two-hole nozzle in place (make sure you've got the nozzles pointed the right way!), push the tube down to where you can get at it at the coupling, and slide the tube on the coupling.
That's it! Then just reattach the brake light to the hatch with four screws, making sure you haven't pulled the wiring loose from the wire wrap or connector. (I wrapped some new electrical tape around the connection, while I was at it.) Put the cover back on the light with the last two screws, pop the screw covers back on, put the black plastic cover back on the other hole, and you're done.
Give it a test, and I'm sure you'll be pleased with the improved washability of your rear window.
This is a half-hour job, at most. I highly recommend the upgrade.
Love my manual trans Forester. At 4520 miles (March 2001) the Check Engine light (CEL) came on. It stayed on while I fooled with the gas tank cap, gas level within gas tank (filled it from half to full), etc. (Gas cap itself says that you have to tighten it well to prevent CEL. Manual says the same thing. It also says, in different places, to take it to the dealer immediately and to wait for a few trips to see if the light goes out on its own.)
Took it to dealer after a few days; they replaced oxygen sensor under warranty after checking the "misfire codes". The paperwork from the dealer said three codes were found, then later on there are these three strings, which might be the codes: C445171C, UFP22, B445001.
Just returned from a 2 week trip. Fired up the Subaru June 2001, and now the CEL is on again. Mileage is only 5850.
Have only ever put regular unleaded in it. Only from national chain dealers (Exxon, Mobil, etc).
A friend told me it that oxygen sensors are very robust and rarely go bad. If so, then is there anything that could be causing them to go bad (so they are a symptom and not the cause)?
Gas mileage on this car in 100% city driving is around 23mpg.
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4292743515
It's a Solaire/Webasto roof, very professionally installed IMHO. Drew commented that it looked like factory.
Here is one web sight related to the brand:
http://www.crosscountrydist.com/webasto.htm
I'm extremely pleased with the moonroof in every regard.
Ross
-Frank P.
I'm thinking about Mich. Pilots next go around. Anybody have any experience with them? The Geo's are great on wet and dry surfaces but stink in the snow. The Pilots are supposed to be a pretty good balance for all conditions. (read compromise)
- hutch
p.s. sorry I haven't been around much lately, the WRX has made me gravitate to the I-Club more. I still check this board regularly .. just haven't posted. Ah, heck .. you don't even have "leaders" anymore
Could someone measure the rear cargo area and make sure it can accomodate a 36"x24"x4 1/2" fold-down dog crate? I'd like to make sure the crate will fit in the back, lengthwise. What's the width of the cargo area at it's narrowest?
We test drove an S yesterday, and I totally forgot to bring my tape measure along.
thanks in advance,
aj
I had this same wear problem on a previous vehicle. I probably had 10k miles on the tires when I noticed that the outer tread was wearing while the center tread looked fine. After I upped the pressure the wear was much more even. Unfortunately, in your case, it sounds like it's too late to counteract the wear pattern.
-Frank P.
-Frank P.
aj
1, I live in Vancouver, and have to drive uphill/downhill daily, I'm wondering if the 4 cylinder engine is up to the challenge especially when it snows?
2, How is the reliability record of Subaru? I don't want to get a car that requires small repairs often...
Thanks
Will
While it is a 4 cyl. .. it's a big one. 165 hp is getting into 6 cyl territory. I don't think you're gonna have any trouble getting up hills in the snow. As far as reliability goes, Soob's are rated very high .. about on a par with Toyota and Honda. Mine has never been to the dealer for repair, other then scheduled maintenance.
If you like it, buy it and join the family
- hutch
Thanks
p.s thanks to hutch for your response
Bob
Leo
Ross
Hutch -- I replaced my original Geos at 43K miles. They still had a smidgen of tread before become flush with the treadwear indicator. I drive 90% freeway, however. I did notice that my outer edges were a little more worn, but I attribute that partly to my driving.
I replaced my Geos with another set since I liked how they do on wet and dry. They've also been fine in the few times I've driven in snow as well.
When I took my Forester in for a comprehensive alignment job (after I got my new Geos) the tech noticed the outer wear and adjusted the alignment just a tad to promote more even wear. That seemed to have done the trick since treadwear looks dead even so far at 57K miles.
If you didn't mind the lettering, you could flip the Geolandars on your wheels since they're symmertic.
William -- Like Bob wrote, there isn't a whole lot of difference between the 2001 and 2002. One thing you may want to consider is resale value. Is the difference in price big enough to account for the fact that the 2001 is an older model?
Leo -- The culprit on the L is not the wheel size, but more the tire quality. The Duelers aren't very good tires, IMO. You can get much better performance by simply getting better tires even at the same stock size. Other options would include plus zero sizing where you keep the same wheels but go with wider and lower profile tires. The best thing to do, if your budget allows it, is get a set of new alloys and wheels. I think juice got some 225/60R16 for his Forester L and he saw a huge improvement in performance.
Ken
The better solution is to fit larger rims and lower profile tires. Forester S comes standard with 16x6.5s and 215x60 tires.
I too do not like the Duelers...decent tire, especially if you do lots of off-road, but a bit noisy on the road and a bit squirmy due to the tall and soft sidewalls. I am considering a plus-one package with 16" rims.
Hutch: I am also considering the Pilot XGT H4, but am leaning towards the Yoko Avid T4. Michelin makes very good tires (you get what you pay for...and you pay alot). The Yokos are more of a touring tire (maybe more fitting for the Forester?) vs an all out all-season hi-performance tire. I am looking for better handling as well as quieter ride. I'll be delegating the standard rims/tires for Winter use.
Both www.tirerack.com and www.tires.com can help with fitment guides (for plus-zero to plus-three sizing) and lots of useful info.
Hope this helps,
-Tony
Hutch -- you may also want to consider Dunlop SP5000s. They get great reviews, are decent in snow and they're cheaper than Michellins.
Ken
Another question regarding S model. Noitce that it also has a limited slip rear differential. I'm ignorant on these things, what does that help/do?
Leo
The AWD system in your Forester L can only transfer power between the front and rear axles (think front and rear sets of tires). It can not transfer power from left to right.
The reason behind this limitation is that your front and rear differentials are open. Open differentials allow the left and right tires to rotate at different speeds -- something you need to have in order to be able to turn. Unfortunately, an open differential also allows power to "bleed" to the wheel with the least amount of grip. Think of the front of a vehicle with the left tire on ice and the other on pavement. The open differential will allow the wheel on ice to spin freely while the right one stays motionless.
A limited-slip differential allows the left and right tires to turn at different rates, but only up to a certain point (hence the name). At some point, the differential begins to lock, forcing the two tires to turn at the same speed. This setup will allow power to be diverted left and right.
Some Subaru models use a rear differential for added traction. It allows power to be diverted not only front to back, but also left to right on the rear wheels.
Keep in mind that the set up you have in your Forester will help you in 99% of all conditions. The limited slip rear diffy will help in even more extreme situations such as one side of your vehicle is on ice, or you drive very hard.
FYI, the latest VDC system offered by Subaru in the VDC wagon uses open differentials, but can transfer power to any wheel through the clever use of the ABS system.
Ken
But whining aside, does anyone know if the 6-CD changer can also handle CD-Rs and CD-RWs?
I've already learned quite a bit from the last 500 messages or so - so thanks in advance to all you enthusiast!
Tom
Leo
Tom- I have the 6 disk CD in the WRX. I'm pretty sure it's the same one. I play CD's I've recorded all the time.
Asplundh - check to make sure that your "air source" switch is set to outside rather than recirculate. In humid conditions setting the air source to recirculate can cause moisture to build up inside the car. If it is set to "outside" then the dealer is F.O.S. That is not "normal". (moisture that is .. not dealers being F.O.S. .. that of course is normal)
- hutch
I have a 2001 Forester S+ and use CD-R disks with no problem. I Have not tried an RW disk yet.
Russ
For more in-depth reading, check out:
http://www.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm
Awesome site.
Ken
Mike, I too get the condensation between the side window glass and the rubber gasket. It's annoying, but harmless. However, if you feel that the windows are leaking, that is definitely not normal and should be looked at.
-Tony
The most effective way to avoid condensation is to run the climate control on auto. The Air con will run from time to time and dehumidify the air in the car. However, do check for any wet patches by pulling back mats etc and make sure that the drains are operation from air inlets.
Cheers
Graham
Tom- How can you not like that huge moonroof?
-Frank P.
I also have a question on the a/c. It doesn't seem to get very cold on my 2002 Forester L. Set at the coldest setting does not come out really cold. Is it the new refrigerants they're using or is it the design.
Also, I wanted to purchase the rubber mats but the salesman said they are on national backorder and it would be a long time. Anyone else hear this.
Thanks.