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Comments
You can get an X Limited, though. You give up the leather and the wood steering wheel, but it's still well equipped.
-juice
I wonder what would be the best way to maintain it in a good shape? Take it out for a drive once per week? I've heard somewhere it's recommended to inflate tires to the max - is it true?
Nah, that's overkill, just use it once a week, and keep the pressure up a little (maybe 33-35psi or so).
-juice
-juice
I'd like to know more about this product.
Don't give up so easily in your searches! :P
-juice
Does any one else have experiance with the Forester with 5 speed manual drive train they'd like to share ?
If man was meant to drive a manual shift, we would not have invented the automatic...:P
Len
Just goes to show you how popular the MT is, when a dealer is completely sold out :shades:
John
Talk about spinning! :P
No problem with supply at all.
The 06 MT5 models sold out. Plenty of 06 autos left. So John is right! :P
-juice
http://www.repairmanual.com/catalog/H89101
After tuning, my engine will be consistently powerful until suddenly, one day, it will start to grunt when going up hills. After about 5 seconds of climbing, the engine instantly loses 500 RPM and I have to firewall it to get power.
My previous car was an '87 Acura Integra, and this car practically never needed tuning. Is my experience unique?
Change the spark plugs and plug wires, and the fuel filter while you're at it. 30k miles or 3 years, so you're due anyway.
-juice
-Frank
tidester, host
Frank
Two-tone looks hot, I love it...
-juice
I'm a proud papa of a 2 Subaru household. Our 02 Forester S (my wife's, almost 60k miles. All service performed on time at dealer) all of a sudden started running hot. Temp gauge never went into the red, but went over the middle mark where it should stay. Wife said
'temperature spiked and would settle down'. I checked out the car at home, and this is what I found out (I'm a little handy with cars, but radiators confuse me):
- Overflow reservoir is completely empty
- When I removed the radiator cap, I see no fluid
- In the 'tray' directly below the radiator I can see green liquid (radiator fluid)
- I see a little bit of fluid seeping/dripping along a 'hook-eye' on the right front of the car.
- Engine compartment smell like radiator fluid
Doing a search on 'Forester', 'Coolant', etc. returns a lot of results (incl. info on recalls). We love this car and want it to get better. Some of you here must have gone through something similar and I would appreciate insight into your experience and what you learned.
I live in the SF Bay Area (equal distance to Redwood City and Livermore dealerships). Any tips on where to get this fixed?
:sick:
Thanks,
Martijn
Ask around, call around....a radiator shop would usually be your best bet. I am almost certain, from experience, that its a leak. It is always a toss-up as to paying for a new/re conditioned one as opposed to the time and labor to repair. If you know a reputable mechanic/shop, ask them who they send their business to.
It should be easy enough to find. For plain old diagnostics, don't hesitate to fill it up with water, including half the overflow container. Start the engine and use a good flash light to try and locate it. You may need to drop the plastic engine guard (the one with the oil filter door). It may not start leaking until it gets up to temperature. Watch out for the fans turning on automatically.
It is a bit early to have to replace everything, just the bad hose should solve the problem.
You will need to drain and replace with the correct fluid.
The worst case is that it is a leaky water pump. About as bad would be a hole in the radiator.
In any case if it is leaking a lot (more than a casual drip) you should probably have it towed to the shop rather than risk overheating.
It sounds though like a job within a DIY category.
Have fun,
John
The coolant/water in the tray is exactly what I encountered with the pinhole leaks......
I love recirc. If it's not in recirc I smell fumes being sucked in. I also like sometime to have air blown to the windshield. I wonder if there is any way to trick recirc to stay ON when a air is set to blow onto the windshield.
BTW, that was not a problem in my Forester 2001. Recirc was totally independent of the fan knob position.
You aren't saying pinhole leaks in the engine? You must be refering to the radiator? yes I have seen that, but not on a plastic radiator. Usually pin holes come from corrosion on metal radiators.
It isn't always easy to find the leak. Sometimes they come and go depending on the pressure in the system.
Joh
-Brian
First, Recirculate really isn't. The manufacturers have always used a mix. It is usually 20% outside air, and 80% recirculated. Scientists and Doctors have long had concerns about a car with more than one person using that setting as the CO2 levels rise. If there were a small leak in the engine wall, or the like, that would make the situation worse. :sick:
Experts recommended using the Recirculate setting for short periods of initial cool-down, or on the hottest of days (110*+) only. Believe me, the indoor pollution you are breathing is much worse than the occasional smell of fumes you might get!
Maybe I have a sensitive nose, but smell of fumes I'm getting is not occasional but always present unless I am on the nice empty country road. If there is traffic - I'll get fume smell and will feel nauseated.
Air conditioning, by its very nature, dehumidifies the air.
If you are sucking in very humid air, of course it will not work as quickly, or efficiently, as when it is drawing dryer (recirculated.) air.
Ever notice the puddle of water under your car? That is the excess moisture the AC is pulling out of the air. It does that no matter what "mode" you are using. That is why it is efficient to use the recirculating setting initially, but less of a health risk to switch to outside air once the car has cooled down.
And Kate, the fact that those dust particles ARE COLLECTED on the filter means the inside air is "cleaner". The cabin air filter remains "cleaner" because you are not taking in fresh, outside air, in the quantities you would using 100% outside air draw. Please don't confuse smells with things that can harm you, or your "feeling" sick at smelling them, that is merely psychological.
You can be concerned about micro dust particles, but they are present in your home as well. Ever read about "Sick Home Syndrome" ? That is when a house is sealed too completely without bringing in clean, outside air! Same principle with your car. Don't worry about dust, worry about CO2 and chemical gases from all the plastic in your car and poisons in your carpet and mats....
-juice
However even some of the manufacturers suggest in their manuals that Recirc shouldn't be used most of the time.
And BTW, the California Air Resources board did a study some years ago that showed air intake on a freeway, except in bumper to bumper, mostly stopped traffic, was no higher in pollutants than samples taken 1/4 mile from the freeway.
On the Recirc setting you are still taking in 10-20% outside air, otherwise you would die in a sealed car re-breathing your own expelled CO2, I doubt you are breathing air any cleaner than if your windows were all down.
But on longer trips, 1/2 hour or more, it is considered much safer not to use Recirc all the time.
I haven't taken the carpeting up to investigate - the car is still under warranty so I'll let the dealer do that if it's something weird.
Thanks!
Sara
John
Sure, it could not be re-instlled correctly.
John
-juice
RUN! :surprise:
I suspect you've been watching a little too much television. Let's try to keep it at least somewhat serious.
tidester, host