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Comments
Ross
Any thoughts?
I would get that crack repaired as soon as possible before it gets bigger. Many windshield places can fill the crack with a sealant that prevents it from growing.
The heated windshield is going to be more expensive to replace than a plain one.
Ken
-juice
boris8- With winter coming, your windshield's constant exposure to heating and cooling of will likely make the crack worse. Therefore, Take ken's advice and see if it can be repaired. They are indeed expensive to replace and depending upon your state's laws, you may have to pay your insurance's deductible.
-Frank P.
I imagine they're the brake pedal and clutch position, things like that.
-juice
As long as you're not coming in every other week with imagined problems they should be happy to help you. Besides, I'm pretty sure they can bill SOA for any warranty work so it's not like it's coming out of their pocket.
-Frank P.
2000 and have had a "poping" noise that
occurs during turns and sometimes when
when driving straight and going over bumps.
When pulling into my parking lot at work I
need to make three turns, one right after the other and I get a single POP with each turn.
I plan to get it to the dealer to get checked out
but until then does anyone know what is causing
this mysterious POP sound and can it be fixed??
If that's not it, have them check the rear shocks.
-juice
Ross
Steps listed are as follows:
a) Total the cost of the options for the model and equipment you want.
b) If ordering the vehicle, determine the value of the holdback and subtract this amount. If the dealer orders the vehicle, he won't pay floorplanning (the charge to stock the vehicle), or advertising (an expected cost of business), which the holdback is designed to subsidize.
c) Add the True Market Value price to the list of discounted options.
d) Add the destination charge, which is non-negotiable. Also expect to be charged advertising fees by the auto manufacturer to help pay for those MTV-style TV commercials that got you thinking about a new car in the first place. You should pay no more than 1.5 percent of the vehicle's MSRP.
e) Some dealers charge a delivery and handling (D&H) fee. Negotiate this fee. It's just added profit.
f) Add sales taxes.
g) Deduct any incentives or rebates.
Step C is to add the true market value to the discounted options. How do you determine a fair price for the options added on to a new car?
Does anyone have any additional comments or steps to add to the list above?
I prefer the no-haggle approach. I may cost you $100 more then the snake-oil salesman down the street, but you are generally treated with respect and feel you can trust they are only trying to help you find the model and options you want.
Here's the one I usually refer people to (in the capital area):
http://www.fitzmall.com/
My dad and cousin bought there. I went to a snake-oil salesman, and they tried to pull every trick in the book, mainly bait-and-switch pricing. Their ads look cheaper, but add their processing fee, advertising fee, freight, etc, and it's more than Fitzgerald charges (their prices include all that stuff up front).
My 2 cents'.
-juice
Subaru rocks!
-juice
Juice is right about you still having to find a dealer willing to sell at the price you come up with. There are a lot of local variables that come into play when determining the actual sales price of a vehicle so one formula won't work for every situation.
-Frank P.
There is a dearth of trailer hitches in Vancouver, WA. The dealer installed it for $38 more than invoice price. Bottom line, price wise, was $100 over invoice, plus $249 doc fee, tax and tags. The dealer is now part of Auto Nation and may be selling over the net all over the USA. I am in Arizona, had to travel 90+ miles to get this deal, but it was well worth it, I think.
Drove home on the freeway (Intersate for you easterners) and am exceedingly pleased with the ride, handling and POWER. Have a LONG hill to climb that is about a 2000 to 2500 foot change in elevation. At low speeds (50-55) it did not labor. We'll see what happens after the 3000 mile break in period.
Have two long trips in near future, one to Denver for Thanksgiving and one to Vegas after New Year's Day. Judging by the ride home yesterday, both should be a piece of cake. Will be doing a lot of day trips in the next few weeks, will keep informed of any "quirks", etc.
Arn
I'm very pleased with my decision. I had seriously considered the Hyundai Santa Fe, but went with the Sube because of gas mileage and an all-around better feeling about dumping $20k+ on a vehicle.
FYI, everyone who has a Sube should get a Subaru credit card. Wifey and I use it as a de-facto debit card and earn 5% of every purchase towards a new Sube (she wants an Outback in a couple of years). Subaru of USA just rolled out a plan where you can use your credits towards Subaru maintenance and upgrades, so that stereo might end up being free in a couple months...
I can't wait! Please do keep us posted on your travels!
Nate: same to you. Keep in mind I think it's now 3% on rebates with that credit card. Still, you can use it for accessories, which I love!
-juice
Thanks!
That's why I like no-haggle dealers that don't surprise you at the last minute.
Complain about this and see if they'll split the difference. If not, how good is the deal, and are there other dealers nearby?
-juice
-juice
Any experience with it?
Thanks.
The kit itself is very simple. You pop out this plastic cover, install a bracket with two screws, and then slip in the filter and cover and fasten it.
It's a particle filtration filter, made of paper, like many furnaces use, so it catches dust, dust mites, pet hair, etc. I have asthma so it was a no-brainer.
-juice
I am now the proud owner of a S+ Silverthorne Forester... and today, the first snow of the season is falling. I can test the seat warmers and windshield wiper deicers!
Of course, I have to ask a couple of questions:
my sales person could not tell me how to use the key to open my door without setting the alarm off. It is not in the instructions manual either. Is this a subaru quirk or is there some way that I can work this out?
I know that I have read about a funny smell in the new foresters. What is it? It smells like burning electrical wiring?
Thanks again!
My understanding is that you should always use the romote entry to open/deactivate. If you do open with the key, and the alarm goes off, put the key in the ignition, and turn on/off three times quickly to deactivate it. That will turn it off.
Bob
Hey Juice- wouldn't it be fun to recline on those heated seats and star gaze thru that monster moonroof on a crisp clear winter's night? Sorry, just had to rub it in. ;-)
Re the alarm- Bob is right, when the alarm is activated (either by using the remote or by moving the power door switch to "lock" prior to closing), using the key to open a door will set it off. However, you can lock the vehicle without setting the alarm by either using the key or by manually pushing in the door lock lever (inside the door handle). FYI: if you screw up and accidently set the alarm off, the disarm button on the remote turns it off.
Re new car smell- it offends some more than others. Rest assured that it will eventually go away.
-Frank P.
congrats on your new s+! i am in the market for essentially the same car (and color) -- do you mind if i ask what price you were able to negotiate your vehicle for? thanks.
for other s+ owners-
the only downside i see is the inability to install the side underguard bar. is reaching/cleaning the roof that much more difficult without it? guess it makes a difference how tall you are -- i'm only 5'7".
Bob
Congrats, and it looks like just in time, too.
I know, it's the worst new-car smell in the industry. We don't tell anyone 'cause it goes away in a few weeks!
Norm: you can also stand on the rear tires, as well as the rear bumper. That plus I'm 6', so it's never been an issue for me.
If you're near the nation's capital, consider paying a visit to http://www.fitzautomall.com/. You can go to their site, under new plug in Forester, and you'll find up-front prices that are pretty darn good, with no surprises. Even freight is included, just add state tax and tags.
Some dealer will say they'll beat the price, but then tack on freight, advertising fees, processing fees, etc.
-juice
back in october, genx56 posted a list of steps for determining a fair offering price. in step b he mentions that if you're ordering your forester, you should deduct the dealer holdback (of 3%). is that from the invoice price shown or from edmunds' tmv? also, as far as i know, there are no forester incentives or rebates, right?
Deduct that holdback from the invoice price to find out what the dealer paid, but don't expect to keep that money - it's their only profit in most cases.
On another topic - just got the Consumer Reports 2001 Buyer's Guide, and the '99 Forester had PERFECT scores in reliability, a nice improvement from the first year 1998 model (which was still very good).
The CR-V and RAV4 could not match those scores. In fact, not a single Honda could.
Subaru earend a best pick rating for all its models, and none are listed under reliability risks or used cars to avoid.
Not bad!
-juice
Mike
-Frank P.
P.S. You're welcome to join us in the Owner's Club Subaru forums (which by the way aren't limited to owners, only need to be a fellow Subaru fanatic). :-)
In the past five days, I have driven my soob over 500 miles and I LOVE it... and the stinky new car smell has evaporated
The weather recently turned cold and wet here (Austin, TX) and we've had trouble getting the rear four side windows to defog adequately. The rear window w/ the electric defogger worked great, but the rear sides remained difficult to see through even w/ the fan on high.
Anyone else notice this or have a suggestion?
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
The only time you should have the recirculate button on is in hot weather when used with the A/C.
-brian/subearu
Anyone else go through the same debate?
The macho redneck side of me is begging for the Cherokee, but the feminine practical side is demanding the Forestor.
This is assuming that one doesn't need either car for off-road, only for commuting in occasionally icy/snow conditions in Oregon or Vermont.
Subaru Forester:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/98018.htm
Jeep Cherokee:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/98012.htm
Main overview of small SUVs:
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/summary_smsuv.htm
Drew/aling
Townhall Community Leader/Vans Conference
The Forester will suit you fine. It rides better and you'll get way better gas mileage too! And if you do venture onto the 'off-road', your Forester will be able to handle it, no problem.
Just my 2 cents. As always, you're results may vary.
-brian/subearu
Ross
2) Price - Forester L 5-speed can be had for 19k.
3) Reliability (as already mentioned)
4) Handling - I used to _drive_ a Ford Probe GT. Enough said.
5) Build Quality
The only drawback to the Forester for guys is Subaru's marketing of it to women. I've caught people joking about my purchase, saying "Should we tell him he bought a wagon and not an SUV" and "Do you know you own the official car of the lesbian community". Who cares what other people think - a Forester purchase shows that you are smart. It's powerful, frugal, solid, durable and will remain that way for many, many years and miles.
-Tony
Best of luck whatever you decide.
-Frank P.
But, again, reliability is the key here (as mentioned previously).
One thing the Jeep has is the fact that there are a lot of them out there. Parts are easy to come by if you need them. And the I-6 is easy to work on. My dad has an 87 Sport 2 door that is still running strong (knock on wood!).
So, if you'll need to tow more than 2000#, then you'll need something other than the Forester. If I need to tow something, I just go to UHaul and rent a truck! Better yet - get a friend who has a truck and borrow his!
-brian/subearu