Isuzu Trooper Stalling Problems

mountaineersmountaineers Member Posts: 6
Has anyone had this problem? It will stall when coming to a stop. Took it into isuzu dealer. They changed the head gaskets saying they were sucking air. Drove home and problem started just the same. Took back, they cleaned egr and they said that the wiring harness must have a break in it. But no dealer has one and isuzu has 3-6 week backorder.


  • dworthingtondworthington Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 trooper and it was doing the same thing, so I asked around at work and a guy with a Mustang used to have the same issue. before it stalls, does the RPM needle bounce, If so, Check you Intake sensor. I sprayed mine with a can of air and have not had a problem since. I also had my Fuel injection cleaned ($50 at jiffy lube) and have been adding a fuel additive and it has be running great for a truck with 140k
  • amollohanamollohan Member Posts: 2
    I have a 92 Isuzu trooper. In the past if I did not let it run for a few mintues it would die when I stopped. Now, I was just driving along (had driven 30 ate dinner then about 15 later) and it just died. It strarted right up again after it sat for about 15 min. Then a couple of days later I had driven it to work ( no problems) but coming home it died and had to wait 15-20 min. and then it started, it died again a couple of miles later. Let set for about 1 hour and it started right up. My husband changed the fule filter because it would not start at all the next day. I drove to work no problems, coming home filled with gas and would not start for 45 min and then died again 15 miles later. Sat for 20 min and started up and drove the other 15 miles home.
  • harold16harold16 Member Posts: 1
    after the engine heats up ,it will cut out and die and have to wait until cools off then starts right up,I replaced the coolant sensor under the intake is there another one
  • dragonrolydragonroly Member Posts: 4
    my 2000 isuzu trooper just start doing the same thing after changing the EGR valve. It start to stall when comes to a stop. What did you find out about your problem?
  • mountaineersmountaineers Member Posts: 6
    It was a bad wiring harness. Somewhere in the bundle that runs across the top of the engine the wire shorted out. A common problem on this vehicle. Took two months of going thru bad used ones(cannot have any cuts because some cables are shielded) which I had to find throughout the country on my own. I finally found a new one on my one at a dealership in Mass. Isuzu did not produce the part any longer and had no time frame on producing it. Isuzu reps were terrible and did not get back with me on several occasions.
  • dragonrolydragonroly Member Posts: 4
    thanks man. today i run another test it gave me codes PO300, PO 505, PO171 and PO1340. What codes gave to you when you had the problem. For the cables that you talk about, are those the ones that connect to a little box in top of the engine?
  • mountaineersmountaineers Member Posts: 6
    I cant remember the codes. Just take it to an isuzu dealership and the will have the info you need. Yes it runs atop the engine. It is a bundle of wires(part #8-97148-639-8-Costs $413.46, paid $330 from Seekonk Isuzu 401-434-6985) that comes of your fuse box inside the engine and spiders out throughout every sensor/electrical device under the hood. The wires that normally go bad runs in a black plastic tray on top of the engine. Which is extremely hot while running.
  • takohuntertakohunter Member Posts: 4
    I have the same problem with my 94 trooper. Does anyone have an idea why the stalling is intermittent?
  • takohuntertakohunter Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1994 trooper and recently it has been stalling on me without any warning. After it stalls and I re-try to start it, the RPM needles flutters and then the car dies out. After waiting about 15-20 minutes, I can start the car and then it runs normal again. I took it to a mechanic and could nnot find the problem as it only occurs randomly. Does anyone else have this problem? A couple of people said it could be the fuel filter or pump and that I should also get a tune up. nother person thinks it could be the ignition coil. I am not mechanically versed so can anyone help me.
  • troopericantrooperican Member Posts: 4
    Maybe this info can help. It happens with my 89 trooper and it took me a month to find it out. Those symptoms occurs when the ignition control module fails. At colder temperautres works but when it is hot fails, thats why after 20 minutes or so it works again and the computer never stores a code but you can retraive a code if after the vehicle dies, keep starting for about 5 seconds and the computer stores a code. What happens is that the ECM does not pulses the voltage to the ignition coil and keep it steady. Thats why you probably smell gasoline odor after cranking for a while. Theres not current to the sparks. In some models this problem can also damage the ignitor, which is a solid state transistor that sends the voltage to the ignition coil. Normally the ignition control module also known as the pick up coil is located inside the ignition. Other are located at the crankshaft pulley . Hope this can help.
  • troopericantrooperican Member Posts: 4
    forgot to add to the comment I posted that you see something important. The RPM needle fluters because the ignition control module is the signal that the ECM uses to indicated the engine rpm's. Your trooper probably has a bad ignition control module. Let it checked or try to recover a code. If you got a code post it and I can verify in the books and give you the sympthom.
  • takohuntertakohunter Member Posts: 4
    Thank you for the information I will relay this to the mechanics. My car is still in the shop and they are trying to find what may be causing this problem. They did say it may have something to do with the wiring harness?? so they are going through that as well. I also had them check the fuel relay, but that looked ok.
    I did not mention this in my previous e-mail, but my speedometer stopped working as soon as the alternator went bad. They got a new part for the speedometer and whn they put that in the speedometer worked for awhile then stopped again. Don't know if this problem will help in finding the solution. I appreciate your help.
  • troopericantrooperican Member Posts: 4
    Hope you can enyoy your car sooner, just mention the mecs my concern, maybe it can help. Normally the speedometer (not the RPM indicator) is driven by a cable that runs from the transmission to the instrument cluster, like the cable the lanyard trimmers have to transmits the rotation of the engine to the wires at the end. If for any reason it bends or if it is old sometimes brokes and you loose the speed indication.

    Forgot to mention that the engine speed indication (RPM, revolutions per minute) comes from the ignition control module. It send electrical pulses to the ECm and the instrument panel.
  • takohuntertakohunter Member Posts: 4
    Thank you. I will mention this to the mechanics.
  • jackoftrardejackoftrarde Member Posts: 2
    i have a 91 i replaced all spark plugs and things it still cranks but wont start :confuse:
  • jackoftrardejackoftrarde Member Posts: 2
    replace coil,module,rotor fine for one day has no spark now,was hard to start. :confuse: :sick:
  • mii358mii358 Member Posts: 1
    Guys I need some help . . . . Here’s my tale of woe.

    I have a ’91 Trooper, 4 Cylinder, ITEC, 155K, 5-Speed . . . . been in the family a dozen years, has run like a top until recently.

    Early Symptoms {before the Local Shop & Dealer} :

    Running on the freeway out of the blue it spits, sputters and then backfires; choke, choke (gave it a little gas the first time and blew a hole in the muffler, never again. The only time I remember smelling gas) spit, sputter, then smooth out, spit, sputter and run just fine. Ever had the condenser wire rub the inside of a distributor? Same, Same.

    And there doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason as to frequency.

    Although two things that have been consistent:

    It happens more frequently when the engine has reached its normal operating temperature. (removed the thermostat hoping it would run coloer)

    It is ALWAYS triggered when I try to accelerate at lower RPMs, especially, if I am putting the engine in a bit of a strain.

    On two occasions Local Shop repaired some vacuum lines and it ran just fine.

    Then last month it limped home and on to the Local Shop around the corner, but that was it.

    Local Shop kept if for 19 days : replaced distributor, coil, ERG, wires, cap & rotor, plugs, injectors, timing belt, replaced vacuum lines, smoked the intake for leaks, corrected timing, reset intake valve on 3rd Cylinder, cleaned throttle body and air sensor (at breather), checked full pump pressure 135+. Got it back idling at 2000 RPMs (just died out if lower). They were apologetic at not being able to find a cure, but still handed me a bill for $1100.

    Off to the dealer : replaced the plugs, reset timing, reworked vacuum lines, third cylinder plug cross threaded – repaired. Good compression 155+ per cylinder. Once again apologetic for not being able to find the problem. $477 for their efforts.

    Current Symptoms {after the Local Shop & Dealer} :

    Runs pretty strong over 2500 RPMs (especially on a cold day)

    I got it back from the dealer idling about 1200 with a definite blup, blup, blup idling in the driveway. (you’d swear one of the plug wires had come off)

    After two weeks of anxious driving it’s starting to fail again when I put a bit of a strain on the engine and am afraid it won’t be too long until I’m on the bus again.

    I have a feeling it is going to be something simple and I'm leaning toward something electrical.

    Needless to say any suggestions you may render will be greatly appreciated . . . . JT of the O’Briens
  • bmeansbmeans Member Posts: 1
    Just got your input. Did this problem also cause a bucking effect when accelerating. My unit runs better at higher RPM
  • zeev101zeev101 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1989 Isuzu trooper today on my way to school, the O2, oil, parking brake, and gas warning lights all came on at the same time. i had is 1/2 a tank of gas, the parking brake is off, and the oil is fine. When i got back in the car to go home it would start run for about 5 secs (if i pushed on the gas) then die. The battery is new and the alternator seems to be working ok. Has anyone else had this happen? What could cause this?
  • ace09ace09 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 90' Isuzu Trooper. When I start it up it runs for less than a minute. If I can eventually get it will idle and will not stall. I spoke with a mechanic who thought it could be the ignition switch. I took it apart and crossed some wires to test and eliminated the fact that it was not the ignition switch. I just changed the fuel pump in July. I changed out the fuel filter yesterday. Could it be a relay? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am SOOO frustrated. I have been trying everything. I also replaced the alternator yesterday. It was testing low voltage.

    Thank you!
  • ace09ace09 Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same problem on our 1990 Isuzu Trooper. Just wondering if you ever found out what the problem was...

    We were told that it might be a bad ground. We just purchased a new alternator and have changed our fuel filter, changed fuel pump in July.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
  • zeev101zeev101 Member Posts: 2
    I havent solved the problem yet (i have a new O2 sensor to try but havent had time to put it on) but i think it is the O2 sensor Mass, Airflow sensor, or another sensor that would effect the air fuel mixture. The other thing that you might want to get checked out is the fuel pump. Hope this helps.
  • ck3rdck3rd Member Posts: 1
    I to have a 1989 isuzu trooper, starts run for about ten minutes then dies and wont restart its got spark, put a new fuel filter on it, switched the fuel pump relay for a good one that worked, my guess is the fuel pump itself? How ever befor I had this problem, every now & then all of the gage lights would come on and flash on & off it would seem to miss a bit and idle low but if i put the climate control on bylevel & turn the blower fan on it would stop go figure weird right???? On that may guess is a vacum
    line must be crossed somewhere in the dash??? Does anyone have the same problem, or have any suggestions, or know how to fix it? Over all its a good running trooper new motor, tuneup, fuelfilter, ran good untill two days ago???
  • dedspyderdedspyder Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1995 isuzu pickup (200k miles) with similar problems. ran fine for a while, recently not starting. has anyone checked for flooding? a friend said that if the exhaust manifold is near the intake, then heat may be causing some extra gas to get in cylinders and cause a flooding-condition.. so maybe that's one thing to check.. adding a piece of sheet metal in there (to cool it down) may help..

    also researching 1) bypassing the fuel pump relay and 2) putting a heat sink (sheet of metal) on the ignition relay.

    both of these are affected by heat i think and cooling them down might help engine start/run better :)

    i'll try to re-post if i have any success.. but please feel free to look into these topics and let everyone know what ya find :D
    good luck isuzus!
  • car_junkie0504car_junkie0504 Member Posts: 1
    Starts and runs smooth for 1 min then idles rough, misses and then dies.
    Just replaced oxygen sensor, had head and gasket replaced after overheating, fan clutch replaced, new radiator.
    I have no clue what else to do, please help!
  • stormtrooper1stormtrooper1 Member Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    HI, all is not lost!! 1st find your 1995 Isuzu Rodeo Service Repair Workshop Manual online. You can Google it. Google this " 1995 Isuzu Rodeo Service Repair Workshop Manual.PDF " minus the quotes. The Service repair manual is AWESOME! If someone is selling it buy it, do not get cheap, the CORRECT manual is a load of information for your vehicle that will show you step by step what to do to correct the issue. DO NOT USE CHILTONS or Hines, they suck! You will be able to read, and diagnose your vehicle, take the time and STUDY it! 2nd REPLACE the PCV valve. 3rd DISCONNECT THE BATTERY to reset the Engine Computer, disconnect it for at least 30 minutes or overnight. When you re start the car after disconnecting the battery the Engine computer will have to "re-learn" how to mix the fuel etc... so let the car warm up for 5 minutes then drive it cautiously for at least 2 days so the engine computer "re-learns" properly. 4th the HO2s does not function when the car is started, the car engine computer starts in a "closed Loop" meaning it will run exactly as you have stated, once the car WARMS up the "HEATED" oxygen sensor will or should kick in and tell the engine computer how to mix the fuel for the engine to continue running, There could be a short in the wire between the HO2s and the relays to the the engine computer, when you study the service manual A LIGHT will come on in your head, then troubleshoot it, something is happening between the closed loop startup and the "open loop" operation. Open loop meaning when the HO2s starts sending data to the engine computer. The service manual will walk you through this step by step. It is possible you have the wrong HO2s, or it does not work, or is defective. Even though you just replaced it, replace it with a new one, MATCH it to your VIN number at the auto parts store, yes it is a pain for them to type in all the numbers but make them so you get the correct HO2s. Last but not least Get an OBD 1 scan tool and study the codes it gives you, the engine computer stores problem codes even though you can not see them until you hook up a scan tool. Make the scan tool your last attempt as it is expensive. GOOD LUCK!
  • slapshot15slapshot15 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Trooper S. I was wonder if anyone could help me with my issue. The problem that I am having is when I am driving around and come closer to a stop sign/stop light and come to a complete stop, I feel like my Trooper wants to staul on me. So want I do is quickly put it in neutral, give it some gas so it wont staul on me. I am worried that I wont be able to start it again. My Trooper has been in the dealership 4 times in a 2 week period to fix the starter, egr valve, and to see if anything else could be fixed. Trooper has 116,000 miles on it. Granted that my Trooper is used for only winters, but I would like to make sure that the cars I own run at there best.
  • floorguy1floorguy1 Member Posts: 1
    my 2000 trooper has the same problem i drove it to work with no problems.but the ride home it cut out really bad. i stopped at advanced and when i left it ran fine. does your truck make a grinding noise at around 35 to 45 mph? my rpms drop really low and it makes a terrible noise. any ideas?
  • speedrover1speedrover1 Member Posts: 5
    I would be curious to know if the wiring harness was truly the issue. Although solid wiring would benefit the overall performance I would think that this fix would be temporary at best. Stalling issues are famous for the 99-02 Troopers, and are directly attributed to the Intake manifold gasket assembly.

    Seeing how Isuzu as a company ran into serious financial troubles post 911 and discontinued the Trooper in 2002 (SLX in 99') it's no surprise that anyone would be given the run around when searching for genuine Isuzu parts from Isuzu. Oh well..
  • cecaceca Member Posts: 1
    Hi there guys,

    My isuzu trooper '93 difficult to start from cold. Cranking takes a while than normal. After it starts tachometer (very slowly) goes up to idling speed, then suddenly slowly increase up to 1500 revs. Speed should drop to idling after a while when the engine has warmed up but this is not happening. Also the engine engine stalled a couple of times while maneuvering in the parking lot.

    Appreciate any feedback from you folks

  • marshall89marshall89 Member Posts: 1
    i just got the trooper and it was running great till one day i had been driving around for a couple hours and then when i went to back into my drive way i put it in reverse and hit the gas and it died so i restarted it and it idled and i hit the gas again and it died. it did that a couple more time then it started starting but as soon as it started it would die without being able to idle. so i thought it was the fuel pump so the next day i went out to start it and it wouldnt start at all so i sprayed starter fluid in the intake and it started up but then died so i thought for sure it was the fuel pump so the following day i went and sprayed more starting fluid and it started and i hit the gas and it ran rough for a minute then smoothed out and kept running so i took it for a drive and it drove great then went back home and parked it. turned it off then tried restarting it and it wouldnt start again so i changed the fuel filter and it still wont stay running. its still doing what it started doing before either run for a few seconds then die or not fire up at all. im lost and have no idea what the problem is. does anyone else know????
  • weftweft Member Posts: 1
    Hi Marshall. I have an Isuzu pickup that does exactly the same. Its as though theres enough fuel in the system to start up the engine, but its not drawing fuel through from the tank once its going. I have to park mine facing down hill with over half a tank of diesel in to be sure it will start! Emergency procedure is, open bonnet, prime fuel filter (press or squeeze until its full), back in cab start engine ( i need to keep the key turned all the way round until its actually running), heres the fun bit - jump out round to fuel primmer again and pump more deisel through to keep it running for a minute or two, then everythings fine.
    I have a new new filter on but that didnt make any difference, Its as though maybe a one way valve is malfunctioning, the weight of the fuel being drawn forward by gravity is enought to get it statrted. Hope this helps.
  • woospoiintwoospoiint Member Posts: 1
    Might want to check out the throttle body.
  • jakeman3jakeman3 Member Posts: 4

    Has anyone had this problem? It will stall when coming to a stop. Took it into isuzu dealer. They changed the head gaskets saying they were sucking air. Drove home and problem started just the same. Took back, they cleaned egr and they said that the wiring harness must have a break in it. But no dealer has one and isuzu has 3-6 week backorder.

  • jakeman3jakeman3 Member Posts: 4
    Mine was doing that and what finally fixed it was simply cleaning and tightening the high voltage positive battery cable where it attaches to the engine. It was very greasy and loose so I suspect it was causing the fuel injection to cut out....
  • jakeman3jakeman3 Member Posts: 4
    Took me about 6 weeks t figure it out
  • jakeman3jakeman3 Member Posts: 4
    Also it did do it a couple more times after the fix but I suspect the computer had to reset and drop out the code....

  • SixtoSixto Member Posts: 3
    Trooper de 2002 daña consistentemente la banda de forward en la transmisión. Tres veces corridas. Se cambió la transmisión y volvió a dañar la banda de forward. Se cambió la banda recientemente y se nota que está casi dañada otra vez, pues no tiene fuerza la transmisión hacia adelante. La reversa no tiene ningún problema!!! Alguien me puede sugerir qué problema tendrá la trooper? Al colocar el scanner no da código. Pero a veces marca 140 códigos distintos como el problema, que luego de ser "borrados" del scanner vuelve a señalarlos.
  • thecardoc3thecardoc3 Member Posts: 5,690
    Sixto said:

    Trooper de 2002 daña consistentemente la banda de forward en la transmisión. Tres veces corridas. Se cambió la transmisión y volvió a dañar la banda de forward. Se cambió la banda recientemente y se nota que está casi dañada otra vez, pues no tiene fuerza la transmisión hacia adelante. La reversa no tiene ningún problema!!! Alguien me puede sugerir qué problema tendrá la trooper? Al colocar el scanner no da código. Pero a veces marca 140 códigos distintos como el problema, que luego de ser "borrados" del scanner vuelve a señalarlos.

    No hablo español, así que esto tiene que ser convertido. Los códigos le dicen qué prueba está fallando, no qué partes están defectuosas. Si publica los códigos en su formato OBDII PXXX, puedo ayudarlo a resolver esto. ¿Qué herramienta de escaneo está utilizando y muestra datos de control de transmisión?
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