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Isuzu Trooper Stalling Problems
mountaineers
Member Posts: 6
in Isuzu
Has anyone had this problem? It will stall when coming to a stop. Took it into isuzu dealer. They changed the head gaskets saying they were sucking air. Drove home and problem started just the same. Took back, they cleaned egr and they said that the wiring harness must have a break in it. But no dealer has one and isuzu has 3-6 week backorder.
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I did not mention this in my previous e-mail, but my speedometer stopped working as soon as the alternator went bad. They got a new part for the speedometer and whn they put that in the speedometer worked for awhile then stopped again. Don't know if this problem will help in finding the solution. I appreciate your help.
Hope you can enyoy your car sooner, just mention the mecs my concern, maybe it can help. Normally the speedometer (not the RPM indicator) is driven by a cable that runs from the transmission to the instrument cluster, like the cable the lanyard trimmers have to transmits the rotation of the engine to the wires at the end. If for any reason it bends or if it is old sometimes brokes and you loose the speed indication.
Forgot to mention that the engine speed indication (RPM, revolutions per minute) comes from the ignition control module. It send electrical pulses to the ECm and the instrument panel.
I have a ’91 Trooper, 4 Cylinder, ITEC, 155K, 5-Speed . . . . been in the family a dozen years, has run like a top until recently.
Early Symptoms {before the Local Shop & Dealer} :
Running on the freeway out of the blue it spits, sputters and then backfires; choke, choke (gave it a little gas the first time and blew a hole in the muffler, never again. The only time I remember smelling gas) spit, sputter, then smooth out, spit, sputter and run just fine. Ever had the condenser wire rub the inside of a distributor? Same, Same.
And there doesn’t seem to be a rhyme or reason as to frequency.
Although two things that have been consistent:
It happens more frequently when the engine has reached its normal operating temperature. (removed the thermostat hoping it would run coloer)
It is ALWAYS triggered when I try to accelerate at lower RPMs, especially, if I am putting the engine in a bit of a strain.
On two occasions Local Shop repaired some vacuum lines and it ran just fine.
Then last month it limped home and on to the Local Shop around the corner, but that was it.
Local Shop kept if for 19 days : replaced distributor, coil, ERG, wires, cap & rotor, plugs, injectors, timing belt, replaced vacuum lines, smoked the intake for leaks, corrected timing, reset intake valve on 3rd Cylinder, cleaned throttle body and air sensor (at breather), checked full pump pressure 135+. Got it back idling at 2000 RPMs (just died out if lower). They were apologetic at not being able to find a cure, but still handed me a bill for $1100.
Off to the dealer : replaced the plugs, reset timing, reworked vacuum lines, third cylinder plug cross threaded – repaired. Good compression 155+ per cylinder. Once again apologetic for not being able to find the problem. $477 for their efforts.
Current Symptoms {after the Local Shop & Dealer} :
Runs pretty strong over 2500 RPMs (especially on a cold day)
I got it back from the dealer idling about 1200 with a definite blup, blup, blup idling in the driveway. (you’d swear one of the plug wires had come off)
After two weeks of anxious driving it’s starting to fail again when I put a bit of a strain on the engine and am afraid it won’t be too long until I’m on the bus again.
I have a feeling it is going to be something simple and I'm leaning toward something electrical.
Needless to say any suggestions you may render will be greatly appreciated . . . . JT of the O’Briens
Thank you!
We were told that it might be a bad ground. We just purchased a new alternator and have changed our fuel filter, changed fuel pump in July.
Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
line must be crossed somewhere in the dash??? Does anyone have the same problem, or have any suggestions, or know how to fix it? Over all its a good running trooper new motor, tuneup, fuelfilter, ran good untill two days ago???
also researching 1) bypassing the fuel pump relay and 2) putting a heat sink (sheet of metal) on the ignition relay.
both of these are affected by heat i think and cooling them down might help engine start/run better
i'll try to re-post if i have any success.. but please feel free to look into these topics and let everyone know what ya find
good luck isuzus!
Just replaced oxygen sensor, had head and gasket replaced after overheating, fan clutch replaced, new radiator.
I have no clue what else to do, please help!
Seeing how Isuzu as a company ran into serious financial troubles post 911 and discontinued the Trooper in 2002 (SLX in 99') it's no surprise that anyone would be given the run around when searching for genuine Isuzu parts from Isuzu. Oh well..
My isuzu trooper '93 difficult to start from cold. Cranking takes a while than normal. After it starts tachometer (very slowly) goes up to idling speed, then suddenly slowly increase up to 1500 revs. Speed should drop to idling after a while when the engine has warmed up but this is not happening. Also the engine engine stalled a couple of times while maneuvering in the parking lot.
Appreciate any feedback from you folks
Cheers
Ceca
I have a new new filter on but that didnt make any difference, Its as though maybe a one way valve is malfunctioning, the weight of the fuel being drawn forward by gravity is enought to get it statrted. Hope this helps.