-June 2024 Special Lease Deals-

2024 Chevy Blazer EV lease from Bayway Auto Group Click here

2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee lease from Mark Dodge Click here

2025 Ram 1500 Factory Order Discounts from Mark Dodge Click here
Options

Chevrolet Equinox Oil Changes

robinvrobinv Member Posts: 1
My husband wants to change the oil in our Equinox for the first time, but the owner's manual tells you if you want to do your own service you need to order another manual. Anyone change their own oil yet? Can you tell me where to find the filter and the plug and any other details that would be helpful. Thanks
«13

Comments

  • Options
    flyeriflyeri Member Posts: 1
    No manual needed. The oil filter is plainly visible in front of the engine block and the drain plug is on the rear of the oil pan. Read the owners manual for resetting the oil life message on the DIC. Google a DIY on oil changes if he has never changed oil before. It is virtually the same process on every vehicle made today. This one is very easy to get to everything.
  • Options
    jim_dandyjim_dandy Member Posts: 94
    I switched over at about 14,000 miles.
    Engine will run cooler with less engine wear, especially in colder climates.
    You can run this oil between 5,000 and 10,000 miles.
    Good stuff!

    My wife drives the Nox so I change it at 5,000 miles. ;)

    Also seeing better fuel economy.
    jd
  • Options
    ilonka29ilonka29 Member Posts: 3
    Please tell me how to reset the oil life message on the Equinox, my husnabd just changed oil but he said the manual doesn't say how to reset the msg it only says that it has to be done.
    Please help!
    Thank you
  • Options
    dfarrell8dfarrell8 Member Posts: 1
    Reset the engine oil life system by pressing down on the gas pedal (3) times within five seconds with key turned to "Run" position. Light will flash while the system is re-setting. Turn the key to "Lock".

    Page 5-16 of my manuual.
  • Options
    htmac1htmac1 Member Posts: 2
    how come my dealer wants me to have the oil changed every 3k miles?????
  • Options
    htmac1htmac1 Member Posts: 2
    how come my dealer pushes me to 3k mile oil changes?
    is it just so he can get me in there 4 times a year?
    what ever happened to the 5k or 7.5k oil changes?
    they act like I will void my warranty if I don't keep it up.
  • Options
    grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    Your vehicule has a computer system that lets you know when to change the oil and filter in your Equinox. It's not based on mileage like before but by the engine's revolutions and temperature based on your driving conditions. When it's time to make an oil and filter change, your "change engine oil light" will come on in your dashboard. And when the light comes on, you're still able to do 600 milles before your oil change.
    If you are driving under the best conditions your "change oil light" may not indicate that an oil change is necessary for over a year. However, your engine oil and filter must be changed at least once a year. Make sure that your "Engine Oil Life System" is reset after the oil change has been made.
    My Equinox is a 2005 LT and that's the way I do it. And that's by following the "Owners Manual" booklet. So tell your dealer to take a Equinox Owners Manual and do some reading, your dealer is trying to make some easy money on you.
  • Options
    grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    The only way that your warranty could be void is damaging your engine caused by driving without enough oil or by adding to much oil or adding an additive to your oil.
    It's your responsibility to check your oil level at all time.
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    and have used it since. The oil life monitor lights up about every 4,500 miles. In the past with other cars I have always changed it at 3,000 miles but it appears that oil/engine/filter technologies have changed enough to make that overly cautious. Plus GM uses numerous engine sensors and a highly researched computer program to better estimate when oil goes bad. I trust them.
  • Options
    oldfisholdfish Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Nox and have yet to find and grease fittings on the chassis. Are there any lubrication points on this vehicle or are they all sealed?
  • Options
    grosloupgrosloup Member Posts: 239
    The ball joints fittings are "lubed for life" and even when the truck was new, they would have appeared dry. The only way you can get into the joints is to replace the joints - something I would not do until they get loose or start making noise.
    Mine is also a 2005 LT. and so far "trouble free". Lots off owners seems to have problems with their Nox's. I must be blessed or....
  • Options
    oldfisholdfish Member Posts: 2
    I've had very few problems with mine also. Although it's in the shop now to have a sensor replaced in the gas tank. I just got suspicious when the dealer asked if I wanted it lubed and the oil changed while it was there for $50. I do my own oil changes and lubrication and couldn't find any grease fittings on it. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing anything. Thanks for the reply!
  • Options
    ivanlivanl Member Posts: 1
    I would like to flush the transmission fluid and replace the filter as it is recommended at 50k mi. Has anyone here done this job themselves? I dont like the fact that there is no dipstick for the tranny!? Thats messed up. Can anyone let me know or should I fork over 200 dollars and have midas take care of it? Thanks.
  • Options
    rvothrvoth Member Posts: 147
    What type of transmission does it have. The five speed AF33-5/ 3.4 liter engine or 6T70-75 six speed that comes with the 3.6 liter engine.

    The dipstick for the five speed is located behind the front transaxle mount, you have to loosen a bolt to get the dipstick out from the tranny. The filter and gasket from Fram is $54.00 and the five speed will take Dexron T-IV fuild about 3.3 liters to 4.06 liters.

    It's best to just drain the fluids from the tranny rather than flushing all the fine metals particles out. Alot of people have had the flush done and have had alot of problems after.

    You can go to alldata.com and purchase and have access to all the technical info about your year of Equinox
  • Options
    daveshepherddaveshepherd Member Posts: 1
    I know where the dipstick is on the 5 speed automatic - hiding very low behind a transmission mount and almost in accessible - but where is the fill location for this transmission? There is no dipstick like most transmissions have.

    It also looks like that transmission mount might need to be removed, just to get the oil pan off.
  • Options
    rvothrvoth Member Posts: 147
    It might have to be but i would try taking off the pan first before removing the transmission mount. You have have to use the dipstick hole to refill the transmission, watch how you tighten the pan bolts, go in a crisscross pattern when tightening them up.
  • Options
    magnetman12003magnetman12003 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I would like a recommendation of the best "BRAND" of oil to use in my 2010 Equinox 2.4 engine.

    The owners manual does not specify any BRAND but tells what SAE viscosity to use.

    I am thinking of using Mobile 1 or Amsoil but have concerns about engine oil seals leaking. All synthetic oil have a smaller molecule which might bleed through oil seals. Then my 5/50 warranty is worth nothing. Your input will be most appreciated.
  • Options
    cmhj2000cmhj2000 Member Posts: 381
    Have been using Amsoil in my personal cars and customers for almost 30 years. Use it & don't worry about seals. That's just a big bunch of bull if your engine is sound.
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    I have been using Mobil One in my 2006 Equinox for 36,000 miles. Any name brand synthetic would be great for your engine. Walmart sells them in 5 quart jugs at a great price. Your worries about oil seals are unfounded. I use synthetic oil in my 1995 Ranger and 1999 Explorer (both with over 100,000 miles) with no leaks.

    Just my 2 cents.
  • Options
    rvothrvoth Member Posts: 147
    Oil leaks are from in properly seated seals in their housing . They also get hard and start leaking from too many heat cycles long life of the vehicle , this is why they start leaking . Imports usually have better quality of seals then domestics generally.

    I have used Mobil 1 synthetic oil for years and have had good results . Even Castrol synthetic is on the same quality level.
  • Options
    treetoadtreetoad Member Posts: 1
    Old school thoughts on when to change to synthetic oil had you wait 10,000-20,000 miles. Many new cars are now delivered with Mobil 1 from the factory. I wll be switching to synthetic on my 2010 (2.4) after a couple of changes. Any thougts on this? Thanks.
  • Options
    ems1ems1 Member Posts: 48
    I'm planing to change to synthetic this weekend in my 2010 2.4 with 4,500 miles. After it has the synthetic oil in, I will use the Oil life monitor for future changes. As you stated, "old school had you wait for 10,000 or more miles." That is not necessary any more. Since the oil life monitor usually indicates 7,000 mile+ changes with the driving I do, I want the extra protection with a synthetic oil.
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2006 with about 35,000 miles on it now. I changed to Mobil 1 at 500 miles based on their website stating that you do not need to wait to change to synthetic. New engines do not have the long break-in period like the old ones. I change it out when the car tells me to (about every 4,000 miles).
  • Options
    runoxrunox Member Posts: 156
    Why wait? Unless the next couple of services are free.
  • Options
    rmkuschermkusche Member Posts: 2
    Want to do oil change myself. Need to get a couple of answers:

    1. The drain plug is on the back side of what I think is the oil pan, apparently directly beneath the engine. True or false?

    2. If so, what size is the bolt. A 13mm box end fits perfectly.

    If I'm right, I tried using the box end but it's on pretty tight. Suggestions on getting it off for someone who has to crawl underneath, no ramps.

    Thanks!
  • Options
    storm_trooperstorm_trooper Member Posts: 1
    I'm in the exact same boat(SUV?).

    Rear bottom of oil pan, size 13mm fit. I tried a driver with socket and the socket flowered open without shaking the bolt loose.
  • Options
    rmkuschermkusche Member Posts: 2
    I used a 1/2 in drive six point 13mm socket and it came loose easier than expected. Since it is "backwards" being on the rear, are you sure you're turning in the right direction?
  • Options
    runoxrunox Member Posts: 156
    Just did my 2nd oil change and noticed I burned a quart of oil. The original oil was dino grade and at the first change a full 5 quarts drained out. Then I switched to synthetic. Last checked at 3000K, the oil level was full. From 3000 to 6000 I dropped a quart of synthetic.

    Is it common for synthetic to burn off? There are no leaks including the oil pan bolt.
  • Options
    arlinghausarlinghaus Member Posts: 1
    I've got a 2010 Equinox also, and it seemed to burn Synthetic oil also. This last oil change, I put regular oil, and it burned a quart in 1500 miles. This scares me.
  • Options
    rocketentrocketent Member Posts: 60
    Ok, guess it's time to check the oil. Sheesh, shouldn't have to think about this on a new car. Is being a quart low something the computer or Onstar alerts you to? Probably not, just asking if you guys had an alert.
    Anyone else experiencing this oil loss?
    I'll check within the next couple of days and report back.
  • Options
    ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    What does the owners manual say about acceptable oil usage on this vehicle?
  • Options
    rocketentrocketent Member Posts: 60
    edited July 2010
    The owners manual says that SAE 5W-30 is the best, unless you live where it gets below -20F, then use SAE 5W-30 synthetic or SAE 0W-30 engine oil.

    I just checked my level and it's clean and full, but I just changed my oil 600 miles ago, so my reading is not very telling.

    I called my service rep and he said my Nox came from the factory with 5W-30 and that's what he recommends, so that's what they replaced my oil with.

    He said a synthetic might be beneficial for a high horsepower engine such as the vette.

    He also said they have not had a single complaint about oil burn. He said that anytime you change from one kind of oil to another, you will initially see some oil loss while the rings get sealed (not his exact words, my interpretation).

    I see this as a non issue, but maybe I'll change my mind in 10,000 miles. I think there may be an explanation as to why the two owners here are seeing "burn" and I don't think it's a vehicle wide problem.

    I've had my Nox for almost a year and have had zero problems, except for the shift "bump" that the tranny flash fixed last year.
  • Options
    ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Sorry, what I meant in asking is the owners manual usually says something to the effect that using a quart of oil every xxxx miles is ok. Is there something of that nature in there?
  • Options
    laserbluelaserblue Member Posts: 313
    If your Equinox is new it's totally normal that it burns oil in the beginning. When I bought my 2005 new I had to add ½ a quart and it only had 800 miles. Just add oil if it goes down and everything will become normal (your oil level will remain the same) after about 3,000 miles. That's what mine did and sold it with 40,000 miles and never did the oil level go down after it had gotten his 800 miles.
    I guess it's part of the "break-in" period.
  • Options
    rocketentrocketent Member Posts: 60
    I thought I might have misinterpreted your meaning, but no, there's nothing about normal oil burn in the manual (that I could find). I changed my oil for the first time at about 3200 and it was full before the change.

    I pretty much babied the engine until the 20 mile ride to get my first change. During that ride I floored it up to about 100, revving as high as I could for the first time, under ECO, then decelerated and repeated until I got to the dealer. For no other reason than I thought it would be a good time to get the revs up for the first time and maybe shake off any break in material.
    Felt good ;-) This little motor has a nice sound when it revs higher; I like it.
  • Options
    ragtop262ragtop262 Member Posts: 58
    I have a 2010 Equinox 4 cyl with about 22,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 and change at 6000 mile intervals (oil life monitor still shows over 40% life remaining at that point). Hasn't burned a drop of oil yet.

    I have seen a few complaints on other forums about excessive oil usage in the 4 cyl Equinox. Sometimes that just happens. For example, we've had 3 Chrysler minivans with nearly identical 3.8L engines. Two of them never burned a drop of oil. The third would burn a quart every 1500 mi, almost from the start - but Chrysler said that was not considered excessive. We got rid of that van with about 70,000 miles on it and never had any engine problems.
  • Options
    ksptexasksptexas Member Posts: 2
    Okay, for about a week or so I have noticed a "thunk" sound when I go over a slight bump and when I turn. Coming from the rear of my Equinox. Any ideas what this could be? Also, took my Equinox in for an oil change today (the first) and was told that there is "damage" at the right rear of the oil pan that looks like it is crimped. I am told that this is causing a leak and that it probably occured during assembly. Wait..........I am not leaking oil. When the service guy check it, it wasn't low. They say I have to go in and have this fixed, supposedly under warranty. I am leary, it doesn't seem to make sense. I have had a bad experience since the day I ordered this car. Anyone have a clue what this is about?
  • Options
    eagle95eagle95 Member Posts: 1
    Here's some vaulable info and advice on changing oil on your 2010 Equinox. First of all, locate the filter which is actually on top of the engine right behind the dipstick. It has a black top that requires a hex metric socket approx. 1 ". Don't know the exact size but it's a pain to remove without a socket and swivel extension. The drain plug is on the passenger side under the engine and faces the rear of the car. It is horizontal the the ground. This is important because there is another plug facing downward that is smaller, but this is the transmission drain. ( ask me how I know) The drain plug takes a 15mm socket or wrench.
    Once you have removed the filter cap the filter comes out with it. It merely snaps into the bottom of the cap.
  • Options
    runoxrunox Member Posts: 156
    Have you ever compared the oil monitor reading to your mileage? I'm beginning to suspect the oil monitor isn't measuring deteriorating oil viscosity, it's guided by the odometer. I do a little comparison every 1000 miles. You would think the percentage decrease per 1000 miles would be lower when the oil is newer and gradually increase over time, having higher percentage drops as miles grow. Not true, mine drops 10% every 1000 miles almost to the mile, no matter how miles the oil has been heating up.

    After 1000 I'm at 90%. At 6000 miles into the oil change, the monitor is reading 40%.
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    edited September 2010
    The oil life monitor does not monitor the oil directly, nor is it guided solely by the odometer. Instead, the computer keeps track of a number of environmental conditions and uses a computer program to predict the effect of these conditions on your oil. As a result cars that do a lot of easy highway driving can have the oil monitor let the oil go many more miles than cars that only do city. I get about 4,500 miles in mixed driving from my 2006 Equinox.

    "The GM Oil Life System is a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil. To learn more about the Oil Life Monitoring System, please visit the GM Environmental Commitment page. "
    http://www.gm.com/utilities/frequently-asked-questions/all-questions/index.jsp?d- - eep=faq
  • Options
    the3dollathe3dolla Member Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    ragtop262 -

    I'm planning on graduating from doing my own breaks/rotor replacements to changing my own oil. I have the 2.4L 2010 Equinox and have about 5000 miles on it, oil life shows around 30%. Since I bought it, I figured I may as well go Synthetic. 5W-30..

    Amazon has 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 Full Synthetic for $20 shipped, not in stock now, but may come back. Is this better or the same as Mobil1 Synthetic? I'll get a funnel and a oil filter socket for 2.2L GM (guessing same as 2.4L) or 32mm socket. Do I get a cartridge based filter or something like: K&N HP-7000 Oil Filter - Amazon doesn't list any cartridge based filters that work. Or do you take the "cartridge" off and replace it with something like the HP-7000?

    Also, I can probably get to the bolt (I can see it) without ramping the vehicle, is it worth it to get some ramps though? Do I need to get replacement washers/gaskets?

    So..
    1. Place something down to catch the oil, undo the bolt (you said it's the one facing back, not straight down), afterwards tighten the bolt back up. Do you turn this clockwise or counter?
    2. Undo the oil filter, pour out any oil inside of it if any. Place the new filter in with 2/3 oil in it, place some oil on the rim of it? and tighten the bolt down.
    3. Pour in how much oil at first? 4 quarts, 4.5?
    4. Pull out dip stick, clean, put it in and makes sure enough is in.
    5. Start the car and hope it doesn't start smoking!!?? :)

    Does that cover it? What oil and filter do you recommend? If I buy extra oil and a filter for next time, are they ok to sit 6 months? Next, I go, dang that was easy, why did I pay someone to do this all these years! Just like when I did my breaks for the first time.

    Thanks much, Nick
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    I have a 2006 with a different engine (3.4 V6). Walmart has both of those synthetic oils in 5 quart jugs at really good prices.

    I just bought Mobil 1 5/30 for $22 and the oem filter at Walmart. I use it because it is also offered at my local Chevy dealer for times when I have them change it. I do not know what filter the new engine uses but Walmart has a number of AC Delco oil filters. From what I have read Wix and Purolator are also really good oil filters.

    I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days.
  • Options
    runoxrunox Member Posts: 156
    I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days

    Messy messy boy. Your mother must have loved you at dinner. ;)
  • Options
    commuter10commuter10 Member Posts: 26
    edited November 2010
    Also, with the gloves on you are less likely to drop the oil plug into the draining oil (which I have done more than once) and you can drain the oil while it is still fairly hot and not burn your skin. Plus mom does not get as irritated!
  • Options
    wallyuwlwallyuwl Member Posts: 166
    edited November 2010
    Nick (the3dolla)...

    I have a 2010 2.4L Nox. Haven't changed the oil yet myself in it (have free oil changes through GM for another 13k miles), but change oil regularly in our other vehicle and in previous ones.

    I can't comment on the location of the oil filter, or what bolt is the oil drain plug because I haven't looked yet (sounds like you have that figured out, though). But, your process is about right. I'd recommend ramps, but if you are small enough to crawl under there then more power to you. In my truck (traded in for the Nox) I was also able to get under it, but in our Vibe I have to jack it up. If you jack it up always use jack stands. If you use ramps, make sure you put the emergency brake on and put stops behind the rear wheels so the car has no chance of rolling.

    A few notes:

    Change the oil when the engine is warm, it flows better and you'll get more out. I usually drive it until at full operating temperature (a simple 5 min. drive), then let it cool off a bit while I change into old clothes, and gather all the supplies I'll need for the process. So it sits for probably 10 minutes after driving before I drain the oil.

    Usually to loosen oil bolts you'll turn counterclockwise. Clockwise to tighen.

    For the filter, take some new oil and put it on your finger. Rub it on the gasket when putting on the new oil filter. The gasket on the Nox filter is separate from the "regular" part of the filter because it is a cartridge style filter and not a typical canister style. The gasket should come in the box when you buy a new filter.

    The manual says the 2.4L engine takes 5 quarts. I'd put in 4.5, let the engine run for about five minutes to get the new oil nice and hot, then check it. Add more as necessary. Make sure to wait 2-3 minutes after you turn the engine off before checking the oil each time because it takes a bit of time to drain into the pan after the engine is shut off.

    Right now Oreilly's (and its affiliates like Checker, etc.) has Valvoline Synpower for $20 for 4 quarts (1 gallon), buy one get one free after rebate. You can do up to 2 free. That is 16 quarts, enough for 3 oil changes, for $40 in oil. You can go the full oil life monitor, even in a DI engine, with a good synthetic. That's pretty cheap, $2.50 per quart for a quality synthetic. Otherwise, the Pennzoil Platinum you mentioned is a good oil, better than Mobil 1 currently, IMO. Without going into details about why (post is already long enough), it is definitely advisable to use a synthetic in any DI engine.

    For oil filters, just avoid orange can Frams and you'll be fine (not sure if they make orange can equivilents in cartridge style filters). Recently (maybe still) Advance Auto Parts online had Purplator Pure 1 filters (great filters) for $5.00 each. Get 5 online and you can use coupon code "BIG10" and get $10 off $25, so 5 filters for $3 each. Use pick up in store and you don't have to pay shipping. If you don't want to hunt for sales, Rockauto.com has good prices usually even after shipping.

    Hope this info. helps.
  • Options
    the3dollathe3dolla Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the extra info. Yea, I pretty much have a clear idea on what to do, but until I do something like this once I don't feel great about it!

    I think I'll go with the Valvoline BOGO, they also have rebate for two gallons making two gallons 15 bucks!

    https://valvoline.promo.eprize.com/engineguarantee/ and put in enrollment code: ORLY2141 25 off 2 gallons.

    I purchased the 2.2L Oil filter socket, wondering if I need some kind of swivel extension though, we'll see.

    I don't like doing things that seem unnecessary. Why would wheel chocks be necessary? For if my parking break and regular "park" break both fail and then run me over!!?? what!!!? hah I have some ramps that go about 6.5 inches high. Paid about $27 for the Rhino Ramp 12000's.
  • Options
    the3dollathe3dolla Member Posts: 7
    I guess this is for the one in a trillion chance eh? It's not like I'd turn the car on anyways unless I intended on backing up off the ramps.
  • Options
    vwalburnvwalburn Member Posts: 23
    The 2010 and present Equinox with the 4 cyl. has a cartridge oil filter not a canister. It's under a black cap on the top front of the engine just aft of the dip stick. Also, watch for the dexos1 rating for an oil. Valvoline is not dexos1 rated yet.
  • Options
    wallyuwlwallyuwl Member Posts: 166
    Dexos1 and 2 are just money grabs by GM to get more money from licensing. There is little that is different with that spec than what most synthetics (group III even) already have. Valvoline has said their Synpower already meets Dexos1, but they aren't licensing it because it would add about $.50 a quart to the price of their product. GM has said that using an oil that meets Dexos1, even if it isn't licensed, is adequate for warranty purposes (and this wouldn't even apply to 2010s since they have no Dexos1 requirement for their oil in the manual).
  • Options
    onefunkaronefunkar Member Posts: 113
    dexos is only required for 2011 gm. 2010 dont have to use it. gf4 oils will work just fine.
Sign In or Register to comment.