Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet Equinox Oil Changes



  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,651
    What does the owners manual say about acceptable oil usage on this vehicle?
  • rocketentrocketent Posts: 60
    edited July 2010
    The owners manual says that SAE 5W-30 is the best, unless you live where it gets below -20F, then use SAE 5W-30 synthetic or SAE 0W-30 engine oil.

    I just checked my level and it's clean and full, but I just changed my oil 600 miles ago, so my reading is not very telling.

    I called my service rep and he said my Nox came from the factory with 5W-30 and that's what he recommends, so that's what they replaced my oil with.

    He said a synthetic might be beneficial for a high horsepower engine such as the vette.

    He also said they have not had a single complaint about oil burn. He said that anytime you change from one kind of oil to another, you will initially see some oil loss while the rings get sealed (not his exact words, my interpretation).

    I see this as a non issue, but maybe I'll change my mind in 10,000 miles. I think there may be an explanation as to why the two owners here are seeing "burn" and I don't think it's a vehicle wide problem.

    I've had my Nox for almost a year and have had zero problems, except for the shift "bump" that the tranny flash fixed last year.
  • ray80ray80 Posts: 1,651
    Sorry, what I meant in asking is the owners manual usually says something to the effect that using a quart of oil every xxxx miles is ok. Is there something of that nature in there?
  • laserbluelaserblue Posts: 313
    If your Equinox is new it's totally normal that it burns oil in the beginning. When I bought my 2005 new I had to add ½ a quart and it only had 800 miles. Just add oil if it goes down and everything will become normal (your oil level will remain the same) after about 3,000 miles. That's what mine did and sold it with 40,000 miles and never did the oil level go down after it had gotten his 800 miles.
    I guess it's part of the "break-in" period.
  • rocketentrocketent Posts: 60
    I thought I might have misinterpreted your meaning, but no, there's nothing about normal oil burn in the manual (that I could find). I changed my oil for the first time at about 3200 and it was full before the change.

    I pretty much babied the engine until the 20 mile ride to get my first change. During that ride I floored it up to about 100, revving as high as I could for the first time, under ECO, then decelerated and repeated until I got to the dealer. For no other reason than I thought it would be a good time to get the revs up for the first time and maybe shake off any break in material.
    Felt good ;-) This little motor has a nice sound when it revs higher; I like it.
  • ragtop262ragtop262 Posts: 58
    I have a 2010 Equinox 4 cyl with about 22,000 miles. I use Mobil 1 and change at 6000 mile intervals (oil life monitor still shows over 40% life remaining at that point). Hasn't burned a drop of oil yet.

    I have seen a few complaints on other forums about excessive oil usage in the 4 cyl Equinox. Sometimes that just happens. For example, we've had 3 Chrysler minivans with nearly identical 3.8L engines. Two of them never burned a drop of oil. The third would burn a quart every 1500 mi, almost from the start - but Chrysler said that was not considered excessive. We got rid of that van with about 70,000 miles on it and never had any engine problems.
  • Okay, for about a week or so I have noticed a "thunk" sound when I go over a slight bump and when I turn. Coming from the rear of my Equinox. Any ideas what this could be? Also, took my Equinox in for an oil change today (the first) and was told that there is "damage" at the right rear of the oil pan that looks like it is crimped. I am told that this is causing a leak and that it probably occured during assembly. Wait..........I am not leaking oil. When the service guy check it, it wasn't low. They say I have to go in and have this fixed, supposedly under warranty. I am leary, it doesn't seem to make sense. I have had a bad experience since the day I ordered this car. Anyone have a clue what this is about?
  • eagle95eagle95 Posts: 1
    Here's some vaulable info and advice on changing oil on your 2010 Equinox. First of all, locate the filter which is actually on top of the engine right behind the dipstick. It has a black top that requires a hex metric socket approx. 1 ". Don't know the exact size but it's a pain to remove without a socket and swivel extension. The drain plug is on the passenger side under the engine and faces the rear of the car. It is horizontal the the ground. This is important because there is another plug facing downward that is smaller, but this is the transmission drain. ( ask me how I know) The drain plug takes a 15mm socket or wrench.
    Once you have removed the filter cap the filter comes out with it. It merely snaps into the bottom of the cap.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    Have you ever compared the oil monitor reading to your mileage? I'm beginning to suspect the oil monitor isn't measuring deteriorating oil viscosity, it's guided by the odometer. I do a little comparison every 1000 miles. You would think the percentage decrease per 1000 miles would be lower when the oil is newer and gradually increase over time, having higher percentage drops as miles grow. Not true, mine drops 10% every 1000 miles almost to the mile, no matter how miles the oil has been heating up.

    After 1000 I'm at 90%. At 6000 miles into the oil change, the monitor is reading 40%.
  • commuter10commuter10 Posts: 26
    edited September 2010
    The oil life monitor does not monitor the oil directly, nor is it guided solely by the odometer. Instead, the computer keeps track of a number of environmental conditions and uses a computer program to predict the effect of these conditions on your oil. As a result cars that do a lot of easy highway driving can have the oil monitor let the oil go many more miles than cars that only do city. I get about 4,500 miles in mixed driving from my 2006 Equinox.

    "The GM Oil Life System is a computer based software algorithm that determines when to change oil based on engine operating conditions. There is no actual oil condition sensor. Rather, the computer continuously monitors engine-operating conditions to determine when to change oil. To learn more about the Oil Life Monitoring System, please visit the GM Environmental Commitment page. " - eep=faq
  • the3dollathe3dolla Posts: 7
    edited October 2010
    ragtop262 -

    I'm planning on graduating from doing my own breaks/rotor replacements to changing my own oil. I have the 2.4L 2010 Equinox and have about 5000 miles on it, oil life shows around 30%. Since I bought it, I figured I may as well go Synthetic. 5W-30..

    Amazon has 6 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 Full Synthetic for $20 shipped, not in stock now, but may come back. Is this better or the same as Mobil1 Synthetic? I'll get a funnel and a oil filter socket for 2.2L GM (guessing same as 2.4L) or 32mm socket. Do I get a cartridge based filter or something like: K&N HP-7000 Oil Filter - Amazon doesn't list any cartridge based filters that work. Or do you take the "cartridge" off and replace it with something like the HP-7000?

    Also, I can probably get to the bolt (I can see it) without ramping the vehicle, is it worth it to get some ramps though? Do I need to get replacement washers/gaskets?

    1. Place something down to catch the oil, undo the bolt (you said it's the one facing back, not straight down), afterwards tighten the bolt back up. Do you turn this clockwise or counter?
    2. Undo the oil filter, pour out any oil inside of it if any. Place the new filter in with 2/3 oil in it, place some oil on the rim of it? and tighten the bolt down.
    3. Pour in how much oil at first? 4 quarts, 4.5?
    4. Pull out dip stick, clean, put it in and makes sure enough is in.
    5. Start the car and hope it doesn't start smoking!!?? :)

    Does that cover it? What oil and filter do you recommend? If I buy extra oil and a filter for next time, are they ok to sit 6 months? Next, I go, dang that was easy, why did I pay someone to do this all these years! Just like when I did my breaks for the first time.

    Thanks much, Nick
  • I have a 2006 with a different engine (3.4 V6). Walmart has both of those synthetic oils in 5 quart jugs at really good prices.

    I just bought Mobil 1 5/30 for $22 and the oem filter at Walmart. I use it because it is also offered at my local Chevy dealer for times when I have them change it. I do not know what filter the new engine uses but Walmart has a number of AC Delco oil filters. From what I have read Wix and Purolator are also really good oil filters.

    I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days.
  • runoxrunox Posts: 156
    I also recommend the blue surgical gloves. Then your hands do not smell like oil for 2 days

    Messy messy boy. Your mother must have loved you at dinner. ;)
  • commuter10commuter10 Posts: 26
    edited November 2010
    Also, with the gloves on you are less likely to drop the oil plug into the draining oil (which I have done more than once) and you can drain the oil while it is still fairly hot and not burn your skin. Plus mom does not get as irritated!
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    edited November 2010
    Nick (the3dolla)...

    I have a 2010 2.4L Nox. Haven't changed the oil yet myself in it (have free oil changes through GM for another 13k miles), but change oil regularly in our other vehicle and in previous ones.

    I can't comment on the location of the oil filter, or what bolt is the oil drain plug because I haven't looked yet (sounds like you have that figured out, though). But, your process is about right. I'd recommend ramps, but if you are small enough to crawl under there then more power to you. In my truck (traded in for the Nox) I was also able to get under it, but in our Vibe I have to jack it up. If you jack it up always use jack stands. If you use ramps, make sure you put the emergency brake on and put stops behind the rear wheels so the car has no chance of rolling.

    A few notes:

    Change the oil when the engine is warm, it flows better and you'll get more out. I usually drive it until at full operating temperature (a simple 5 min. drive), then let it cool off a bit while I change into old clothes, and gather all the supplies I'll need for the process. So it sits for probably 10 minutes after driving before I drain the oil.

    Usually to loosen oil bolts you'll turn counterclockwise. Clockwise to tighen.

    For the filter, take some new oil and put it on your finger. Rub it on the gasket when putting on the new oil filter. The gasket on the Nox filter is separate from the "regular" part of the filter because it is a cartridge style filter and not a typical canister style. The gasket should come in the box when you buy a new filter.

    The manual says the 2.4L engine takes 5 quarts. I'd put in 4.5, let the engine run for about five minutes to get the new oil nice and hot, then check it. Add more as necessary. Make sure to wait 2-3 minutes after you turn the engine off before checking the oil each time because it takes a bit of time to drain into the pan after the engine is shut off.

    Right now Oreilly's (and its affiliates like Checker, etc.) has Valvoline Synpower for $20 for 4 quarts (1 gallon), buy one get one free after rebate. You can do up to 2 free. That is 16 quarts, enough for 3 oil changes, for $40 in oil. You can go the full oil life monitor, even in a DI engine, with a good synthetic. That's pretty cheap, $2.50 per quart for a quality synthetic. Otherwise, the Pennzoil Platinum you mentioned is a good oil, better than Mobil 1 currently, IMO. Without going into details about why (post is already long enough), it is definitely advisable to use a synthetic in any DI engine.

    For oil filters, just avoid orange can Frams and you'll be fine (not sure if they make orange can equivilents in cartridge style filters). Recently (maybe still) Advance Auto Parts online had Purplator Pure 1 filters (great filters) for $5.00 each. Get 5 online and you can use coupon code "BIG10" and get $10 off $25, so 5 filters for $3 each. Use pick up in store and you don't have to pay shipping. If you don't want to hunt for sales, has good prices usually even after shipping.

    Hope this info. helps.
  • Thanks for the extra info. Yea, I pretty much have a clear idea on what to do, but until I do something like this once I don't feel great about it!

    I think I'll go with the Valvoline BOGO, they also have rebate for two gallons making two gallons 15 bucks! and put in enrollment code: ORLY2141 25 off 2 gallons.

    I purchased the 2.2L Oil filter socket, wondering if I need some kind of swivel extension though, we'll see.

    I don't like doing things that seem unnecessary. Why would wheel chocks be necessary? For if my parking break and regular "park" break both fail and then run me over!!?? what!!!? hah I have some ramps that go about 6.5 inches high. Paid about $27 for the Rhino Ramp 12000's.
  • I guess this is for the one in a trillion chance eh? It's not like I'd turn the car on anyways unless I intended on backing up off the ramps.
  • The 2010 and present Equinox with the 4 cyl. has a cartridge oil filter not a canister. It's under a black cap on the top front of the engine just aft of the dip stick. Also, watch for the dexos1 rating for an oil. Valvoline is not dexos1 rated yet.
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Dexos1 and 2 are just money grabs by GM to get more money from licensing. There is little that is different with that spec than what most synthetics (group III even) already have. Valvoline has said their Synpower already meets Dexos1, but they aren't licensing it because it would add about $.50 a quart to the price of their product. GM has said that using an oil that meets Dexos1, even if it isn't licensed, is adequate for warranty purposes (and this wouldn't even apply to 2010s since they have no Dexos1 requirement for their oil in the manual).
  • onefunkaronefunkar Posts: 113
    dexos is only required for 2011 gm. 2010 dont have to use it. gf4 oils will work just fine.
  • First oil change. 2011 Nox with six. On check in had conversation about new GM SG5 oil type for Nox six. No idea what I was talking about. I told them yo put in Penzoil G5 which is approved by GM for their new direct injection six. Check out....regular SG4 put in.Talked to service manager, and he was aware of new oil requirments. Drained and replaced. I then asked if the put a new filter in. No. So drain and refill with new filter. To their charge.
    Please, be aware of the new oil regiment for the 2011 Nox six.
  • onefunkaronefunkar Posts: 113
    ive talked to a few service managers and none even knew that 2011 gm cars need this new oil. scary.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    I just bought my 2011 V6 so no oil change for a while, but what's with the SG5 oil type (versus SG4)? What are the technical differences. With a direct injection engine, you'd think they'd be forcing you to buy the higher grade GAS, not oil.

    This sounds like another great American scam to me: "we'll develop this new 'direct injection' engine and then tell them they need to buy your new oil ... "
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    edited January 2011
    GF5 is the new oil standard, GF4 is the old one. Along with GF5, is SN, and they are similar (just like SM was similar to GF4). Before long you won't be able to buy oil from a major manufacturer that is not GF5 (Pennzoil dino yellow bottle already is - synthetics have surpassed these standards for a long time). Just use a good synthetic (dexos "approved" or not - they all meet the spec just some, like Valvoline, aren't willing to pay the certification fee to GM) with a low NOACK rating (because of the direct injection engine) and follow the oil life monitor for oil changes and you'll be fine.

    Also, direct injection engines is not an American maufacturer thing. German companies were the first to introduce them, and it was quite a while ago. A whole host of manufacturers are not making DI engines because you get about 3% better fuel economy, and the feds keep upping the mileage requirements.

    Your conspiracy theories are unwarranted.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    Well, I haven't read through the owner's manual yet. In fact, the car hasn't moved since I brought it home a week ago. But I wasn't planning on using synthetic oil. I've used standard oil with my other three cars and they've got 250,000 ('89 Colt), 193,000 ('97 Taurus), and 143,000 ('02 Impala) miles on them. I'd really rather have all the cars using the same oil - just easier to manage that way. And I'm guessing the car comes from the factory with standard oil in it, but I could be wrong.

    We'll see what the owner's manual says. If the car can take standard oil, that's probably what it'll get. I've always serviced my cars myself and I've never had any oil-related problems (I've rarely had ANY problems). And I like changing the oil between 3000 and 4000 miles - especially when the mileage starts piling up (and oil starts disappearing between changes). I'm afraid if I get too complacent with synthetic changing the oil every 7000 to 8000 miles, at some point after 150,000 miles I'm going to get into trouble with low oil levels (unless I check the dipstick religiously ... something I've never done in the past because I change the oil religiously).
  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Do you have a 2010 or 2011? I haven't checked, but with 2010 models of the 2.4 the manual probably specs SM and/or GF4 as the minimum specifications. For 2011, GM requires all their vehicles use oil that meets (even if not "officially" certified) dexos 1 (for gas vehicles) or dexos 2 (for diesel). Even though the engines cross over between model years, these are their requirements now for warranty purposes. In other words, if you have a 2011 and aren't using a dexos spec oil and have an engine problem, you might have trouble getting it covered under warranty. I don't know what, if any, conventional ("dino") oils do/will meet the dexos 1 spec.

    Besides the main benefit of longer oil change intervals, synthetics have several other advantages, especially in extremely cold or hot climates. But for direct injection engines, they have a lower NOACK, which will help reduce the deposits on the valves that tend to build up in DI engines because of gas not flowing over them like they do in regular fuel injected engines. Synthetics also tend to handle fuel dilution in the oil better, and DI engines have more fuel dilution.
  • colt_herocolt_hero Posts: 104
    edited January 2011
    Well, I'll have to look at that. I certainly don't want to give them an excuse to void my warranty (which they'll gladly do). Really bothers me, though, when manufacturers force you to move to something new which is more costly (without any good proof that it's actually necessary). Software people play this game all the time: "Sorry, but that program doesn't run under that Operating System; you'll have to buy another version from us...". And all they're really "changing" is a few links to the Operating System (and a few buttons, boxes, and colors to make it "look" different). The rest of the logic remains the same.

    It's a great way to keep the money flowing. You just keep changing things and forcing people to buy the new thing. And if there's any chance they could still use the older thing, you threaten them with voided warranties (or tell them how "risky" it is to continue using the older thing).

    There's no end to capitalistic rackets in this country.
  • Sunday 2/6/2011. Purchased new Equinox 2/5/2011
    Taking time to read Owner's manual
    Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or Oil changes every 20,000 miles??

    Change oil every 3,000 miles on the 2001 Impala

    What is the cost of an oil change at standard Chevrolet Dealer?
    What is the harm in doing oil changes every 3,000 miles at the dealer, or all I am doing
    is making General Motors more wealthy??

  • wallyuwlwallyuwl Posts: 166
    Follow the oil life monitor and use a quality synthetic (which with 2011 you need to use a dexos oil, and I don't think any conventional dino oils meet that spec). I still change mine when it gets to 8k even if the OLM is not all the way down yet.
Sign In or Register to comment.