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Pat
after coming off a curb with my brake pedal pressed i noticed a metal to metal grinding noise in the left front wheel. didn't hear it for a couple weeks until i hit a small pothole with my brake pedal pressed, heard it again. and again a week later on a bumpy farm road on a quick stop. i took car to toyota, demonstrated the problem for them. their consensus was that it was caused by the ABS, it was "normal" and not to worry about it.
anyone familiar with this?
-hope this helps
Joe
Along the way, my A/T Oil Temp light went on. I drove approximately 150 total miles the first day and the light stayed on for about 1 hour. Traffic was very heavy, especially around DC, where it was stop and go. The 150 miles usually takes me less than 3 hours to cover, but took over 4.5 hours this time After a bit of time, the warning light went off.
The next day, during a longer stretch on the road, the light again went on and off. My total miles covered for this day was approximately 350 miles. About 20 miles from my destination, my transmission appeared to fail. I would put my foot on the gas, but nothing would happen right away. Then, all of the sudden, the vehicle would pick up momentum, and it was on its way. Fortunately for me, there was a Toyota dealer before I reached MB. I pulled in to get the vehicle looked at.
The Toyota dealer was courteous and explained the problem to me in the following manner:
The truck had a heavy load to carry. The strain on the transmission caused the warning light to go on, and did heat up the oil. There was not enough pressure in the transmission to keep the oil flowing properly. He suggested that I turn off the overdrive feature and this should resolve my problem.
I just got home today. I drove the 500 miles with O/D turned off. Once again, the A/T Oil Temp light went on, but I did not lose power. IS this something for me to be concerned about? As I stated earlier, I have made several trips with this vehicle in a similar fashion(MB, Outer Banks several times) each time loaded to the gills without a problem. Is it the age of the vehicle(8 years) or the mileage(82k)? I would appreciate your responses.
Gary
One thing they mentioned to me was that the level of the fluid may have been too high. When they looked at it the level was above full. The fluid smelled OK and the coloring was good also. It was not burnt. They drained some excess fluid from the transmission. I hope this works.
Thanks for your response.
Thanks
The irritating part was that the service department at our local dealer would simply pop the latch for us (guy would crawl over the back seat, pop the inner hatch door panel off and manually work the latch mechanism) rather that try to determine why it was jamming. We had to take the truck in 4 times with a stuck mechanism. The last time we came back to pick up the truck after it had been "fixed", I walked around to the back of the truck, with the service manager in tow, and tried the hatch.
You guessed it: jammed again. After a 5 minute chewing session, they ordered a replacement latch mechanism. The truck has worked perfectly since then.
If the service department can't figure out WHY it is jamming, they may need to replace the whole mechanism. I hope it doesn't take 4 trips to the dealer like it took us.......
Any similar stories out there?
I have a few questions that I hope someone can answer. Is it better to buy the extended warranty now compared to the end of the 3 years? Is it taht much more $ later? Why does the shifter shake? Is 93 octane gas better than 89? Is the brand name gas better than no name gas? Mobil advertises that their gas cleans your engine. Is this true or just advertising hype? I would like to keep this vehicle for many years and want to use the proper gas for longevity. Thanks.
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/pdfs/mid_suvs.pdf
http://www.hwysafety.org/vehicle_ratings/ce/html/summary_midsuv.htm
Thanks.
Do you know why the shifter shakes? I lightly pushed the shifter forward (without depressing the shifter botton) while moving and the gear easily went from drive to nuetral. Any thoughts?
Some gas engines require higher octane fuel than others because their compression ratios are higher. If fuel with too low an octane rating is used, premature ignition (dieseling) can occur. Dieseling is bad for valves and other parts. In general, there is no reason to use fuel with a higher octane rating than what the owner's manual calls for. You won't get better mileage, and in some cases you'll get worse mileage. The same detergent additives are used regardless of octane, so high-octane fuel isn't "cleaner."
As you go up in altitude, from sea level to the mountains, you'll notice that the octane of the fuels available drops. That's because the air pressure drops, and you can actually get away with running lower octane fuel than the manual requires. Here in Colorado I run 85 octane in my 4Runner (the manual says 87). As long as you don't hear knocking, you're probably okay. My dealer even told me I could run 85. The quesion I have is, why does higher octane cost more? Is it more expensive to make?
Click and Clack (the car talk guys) also share this view, so it's not just me. One thing to bear in mind for those thinking of TRD superchargers: A supercharger is a way to increase the pressure in the intake manifold, to get more of the air/fuel mixture into the cylinder. For that reason, once you install a supercharger you typically have to go to high octane fuel. Around here, that means almost 40 cents per gallon more fuel cost.
Also, how do 4Runners compare to the new Nissan Pathfinders? I definitely want 4WD.
Thanks,
PYRENUS
1. Cloth seats are made of a funny material: it is not very pleasant to touch (feels like paper), but it quickly gets dirty with fibers.
2. Bumpy ride.
3. Significant wind noise above 60 mph (although no road or engine noise).
4. Not enough visibility. I am 6'2" and I sometimes have to bow forward to see street lights or a road sign. My seat is always in the lowest position. By the way, there is no way I could fit in the 4Runner with a moonroof.
5. Running boards are useless (they are almost as high as the floor, which is really high). On top of that they are sticking out too far, so if you try to get out of the car stepping right on the ground (like I do), you unavoidably touch the board with your leg (not good in wet weather).
By the way, I noticed that my 4Runner sometimes makes very short, hardy noticeable horn sounds. It mostly happens when I accelerate or deccelerate. Is it normal?
Cheers
My concern is two fold. First, the power of the 4 cyl. I drove it and it seemed ok, with the 5 sp. I will not win any races, but it had pep.
I will only tow light things, nothing like a large boat. I also do not live in the mountains. Second, resale of a 4 cyl.
Any thoughts, reactions, advice?
Thanks, JG
I was suspecting a blown fuse as the culprit. The fuse in the fuse box
under the hood for the tail lights looks good.
Is there another fuse somewhere else in the back? any idea what could
be the reason? Other than this, there is no other problem. Thanks.
Test drove both a "pre-owned" '98 4runner and a new 01 SR5 (both with moonroofs)....
I'm 6ft tall and could not get comfortable in either..my head was up in the moon roof !!
Its a shame because I like the body styling of the 4runner better,,but now am seriously considering the PF
Is there more headroom w/o the moonroof ??
Also does anyone know where I can find a 2 wheel drive 4runner? What state along the east coast sells/leases them.
thanks
Big difference! This is a double din size stereo which fit perfectly in the existing hole. Seems like Pioneer made this series just for Toyotas. I ordered the harness from crutchfield(But I found out lately that they're available too from Walmart for a substantial savings. Look up posting no. 255 on how I removed the center console triming. I plan on replacing the paper speakers someday.
Mike
I agree that the stock speakers definitely need replacing. Factory speakers are made of paper which gives off plain sound. I'm planning to replace mine in the near future. My suggestion to you is, change your speakers first and see if you are satisfied with the change in sound.
Change of topic: MOVING SHIFTERS
The shifters will naturaly move because they are mounted (of course) on the transmission which is bolted on the engine. That is why they isolate the engine from the frame with rubber engine mounts, or in other vehicles liquid filed engine mounts, so its vibrations is minimaly felt on the body. I had a stick-shift Pathfinder which both shifters moves as much as my 4runner now.
Anyway, subsequent negotiations with the dealer failed to produce the goal of owning one. They basically refused to lease unless I went 60 months and even then the difference in payment vs buying was less than $50. No way I will lease if that is the case.
So, what would you loyal Toyota fans consider a good deal? I am looking at a 2001 SR5 4X4 with a V6, Sport package, moonroof, alloy wheels, flared fenders, the works. MSRP of $33,245. Dealer would sell for about $30,600 and offered 4.9 financing. Can I do better?
Thanks and I hope I get to join this elite club someday. Man these things are expensive, but the real deal too!
Mike M
I think you could do way better than $30600 now that they have $1000 rebate going on. Check prices at edmunds.com Also, Email or call Cliffy1 (Steve is not paying me for this.) I got both my 2001 Toyotas from him. He's with a dealership in Arlington VA.
Mike