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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

bkincaidbkincaid Member Posts: 1
my 93 s-10 will not start after i drive it and it warms up...first time starting is fine, only when motor is warm it will not start...i can get it to start if i spray starting fluid in the throttle body though...any help is greatly appreciated..
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    mikeg11mikeg11 Member Posts: 2
    My 00 Sonoma will not start when the tank goes to 1/2. I can drive it, but it will not start up. When I fill it up it only takes about 10 gal, letting me know that the sender is ok.

    I havent changed the fuel filter at all in 81K mi.

    The truck is a flex fuel E85 model, but only run regular gasoline.
    Where should I start? Could low fuel PSI cause this problem?
    Thanks!
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    joec10joec10 Member Posts: 5
    My S-10 died again on another rainy day and would not restart..I changed distributor cap,plug wires,rotor cap,distributor module.It started, but I had a high pitch whine(sounded like a vacuum leak)..the truck ran for 3-4 minutes with the whining sound than it died again and I am back to square on..Any ideas of where to look next?????? truck is 6cyl, 4.3 runs great up till now..
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    s1089s1089 Member Posts: 3
    hmmm sounds like a possible vacume leak...eathier that or you could some how be suckin in water from somewhere...i have never had that problem and my truck has like 240xxx miles
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    I had a vacumme leak on my V6 one time that I found by accident. There was a hard rubber boot in front of the air valve body that was cracked on the bottom. It had a 1/4 in. vacuume line coming off of it. After I fixed that, it ran great.
    Good luck,
    :)
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    joec10joec10 Member Posts: 5
    I will go over all the vacuum lines once the weather warms up--I have a 2001 s-10 but I garaged it during winter and drove the 93. I will keep that tip in mind--thanks for the information..
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    joec10joec10 Member Posts: 5
    After changing the distibutor module, I still wasn't getting spark to my coil..I had to replace the pick-up coil in the distributor and the truck is back on the road again..
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    madminimummadminimum Member Posts: 2
    My struggle has been endless and I might curse Chevy forever if I don't figure this out...Please Help!!!....After my 2000 2.2L gets hot it will not start. Also, my check engine light is on and I believe that the last mechanic said that a history code reads that the truck was running lean. The performance is poor even when running (sputtering). A trusted mechanic could not find anything wrong. He simply said that it seems the engine is demanding too many amps to start. So I bought a higher cranking amp battery, but it didn't help. I have replaced the coil packs, wires, plugs, starter as well.
    Recently, it has stopped starting completely. It clicks continuously when I turn the key but doesnt even try cranking anymore.
    My God, if anyone can spare this poor arseface from my anguish I would be forever grateful.
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    canufixitcanufixit Member Posts: 165
    Interesting ....

    Ok here is an off the wall thought.

    Will it Start when the tank is Below 1/2 full ??? I'm wondering if the pick up tube in the tank has a very tiny hole in it... once the fuel gets below the line it starts to suck air. If running it may just send some small amount of air into the gas system. If the engine/fuel pump stops - the fuel eventuall leaks our of the suction hole and when re- started, the pump can not suck fuel (Lost it's prime)...

    Let us know what the solution is when you find it ...
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    joec10joec10 Member Posts: 5
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    mikeg11mikeg11 Member Posts: 2
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    cmeyers1cmeyers1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 S10 2.2L and when the temp drops below 15 or so it takes up to 5-10 mins to get it to start. As soon as the Service Engine light comes on while cranking is when it will fire. Soon as the engine warms up it will start fine. If you pull it into a garage or if the temp outside rises it will start fine. I have had the fuel filter, ignition control module and fuel pump changed so far. Also used gas line anti-freeze for the last few tanks. Any help would be great
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    cmeyers1cmeyers1 Member Posts: 2
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    petey5petey5 Member Posts: 1
    can i put a 1987 tranny in a 1994 Sonoma (both sonomas)..id like otk now quickly pls b4 i cannot anymore. thnaks
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Sounds like a symptom of a bad coil.
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    seandumasseandumas Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 s10 has the same problems and it driving me crazy, if you ever figure out what it is please post, it or i will post it if i figure it out thanks!
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    the_dj_hitmanthe_dj_hitman Member Posts: 3
    is it a 4.3L (vin-W) I am have a little prob starting and when my 1993 s10 blazer gets warm it is even harder to get started and will not idle good at all.
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    tstormfantstormfan Member Posts: 3
    Ihave a 99 Chevy s-10 and it has gone thru 2 starters and an interplanetary gear, so basically 3 starters in a years time. I've gone to a chevy dealer as well as a trusted family mechanic and neither have a clue.
    When it's warm and dry out it runs pretty decent typically, when it's wet out, I can't get it to start hardly at all. And below 0 it refuses to do much of anything. ..It used to run great in weather up to -30. I've replaced the fuel pump, battery and fuel injector.
    Some days it starts beautifully and some days it won't budge till I give it a bit of gas, but then I risk flooding hte engine. I'm at a complete loss. I'd trade it in, but I don't have the money for a monthly car payment.
    I'm about to have them check the distributor cap and give it a tune up..but wanted to see if there was anything else I should have them look into.
    Thanks!!
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Let see, distributor cap, must be 4.3, that's a start. How many miles, would only be guessing.
    With this much information I would replace the spark plug wires, plugs, rotor, dist cap, a good tune up.
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    It's little wonder it goes through so many starters and starter bendix with all the cranking it has to do. I'm wondering if it has something to do with the ignition switch. Have you checked the input voltage to the coil?
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    0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    0 degrees and -30, I have to assume you are referring to celsius.

    When you say you are going through starters, what is going on them? Are you having a starting problem because the vehicle won't start?

    How many miles and when was the last time it had a tune up?
    Is the check engine light on?
    Has anyone checked the fuel pressure? More than likely, you will find a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.
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    tstormfantstormfan Member Posts: 3
    it has about 100,500 miles now. its a 2.2 liter L4, vortec 2200.
    ...I'll be the first to admit, I don't know much under the hood. I can do some basic stuff myself, but I'm getting frustrated with taking it to the shop and them saying nothing is wrong when I know full good and well, SOMETHING is wrong.
    was planning on a good tune up, I think the last one was at 75,000 miles.
    Actually, I was reffering to farenheit, but I neglected to say with wind chill factored in, so I'm not sure the actual air temp.
    The truck will typically crank, it just won't always fire. There has been a couple times where it just completely won't do anything. One of those times was when the interplanetary gear died.
    Nothing comes up when they run a diagnostic scan so the chevy dealer in town won't believe me when I complain it won't start half the time. My old mechanic back in North Dakota knew something was wrong, but couldn't figure it out. which is what led me here, so I can attempt to figure out what it is and see if I can get one of the other local mechanics to believe me. I figure if I sound knowledgeable maybe they will take me seriously. Thank you to those that have already tried helping and to anyone else that might help!
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    OK, the 2.2 does have ignition wires to the spark plugs. When there is a damp, wet start problem that is the first items I replace. Go with new spark plugs too. Use the 41-948 the engine came from the factory with, the electronic module does not get along very well with other plugs, a resistance thing.
    I also have a 99 with a 2.2 but only 53K, don't drive it much, second vehicle.
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    scgator1scgator1 Member Posts: 1
    I sprayed some carb cleaner into and around the carb on my 83 s10 2.8. Now it won't start. Thought it may have flooded but two hours later it still doesn't want to start. Any suggestions? Also how the heck do you get the fuel filter off? It seems nearly impossible to get a wrench on the bolt to turn it. Help Me please.

    Ty
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    hoodlatchhoodlatch Member Posts: 255
    Go to Wal-mart and get some starting fluid (either). If your problem was caused by the carb cleaner the starting fluid should help get you back on track. ;)
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    tstormfantstormfan Member Posts: 3
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    tomygtomyg Member Posts: 13
    my truck will not start without starting fluid.once it starts it runs fine.i have a vortex v6.somebody please help.The fuel pump is fine.
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    adrian10adrian10 Member Posts: 1
    Went to start my S10 several weeks ago after a few mths sit up. Stearted then died I quickly tried to restart and didn't here the fuel pump make it's usual pre start noise. Looked for a fuse blown. Checked them all (didn't know if the fuel pump had one or where it was) All looked good. Replaced the fuel pump nothing. Today I bought a fuel pump relay nothing. Anybody ever have this problem or know a fix?? Charged the battery turns over good but no fuel
    1985 S10 PU 2.5 FI
    Thamks
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    scottlakescottlake Member Posts: 1
    I cannot for the life of me find the starter in my 2000 Chevy S-10 its an automatic with a 2.2 Liter engine. We were told it was behind the passenger front tire but after looking top and bottom we wern't able to find it. I have my replacement Starter already but I havn't had to deal wiht the starter before. can you help me figure out where it is?
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    plaiddreamsplaiddreams Member Posts: 3
    Similar problem, not solved yet. And it happened once last year (this truck sits a lot) that it would not start, and then worked days later for no apparent reason.
    1990 S10 4x4 4.3litre.
    Turned key on ... fuel pump ran. Engaged starter, engine turned fine, didn't catch. Turned key off and back on ... fuel pump ran. Hit gas pedal, turned engine over ... engine ran well for about 3 seconds then stopped dead. Turned key off and back on ... no fuel pump running. Connected a jumper straight to the fuel pump ... pump ran. Turned engine over ... no run. Added ether ... it ran as long as the ether lasted. With jumper, checked gas pressure at tank outlet (good), and at throttle body (good). Changed air valve assembly (with injectors) for a spare ... no difference, and engine still runs fine on ether.
    It seems that the fuel pump and the injectors are not getting any electricity. Is there a particular sensor that would govern that? Would that kind of sensor show up on a code reader?
    Thanks.
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    biomed86biomed86 Member Posts: 5
    I had the similar problem, started last may, tried to fix since this without results but yesterday, I tried a new distributor module ... looks like it solved the problem !!
    I will tried to start it for a certain period to verify that, even cold starting than hot starting, but it seems to be ok !!!
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    nitratenitrate Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 GMC Sonoma with the 4.3L Vortec V6. Owned it for about two years with no problems (180 000kms). About 2 months ago, I went to start it in the morning to go to work and it wouldn't go. It would turn over but not start. After about half an hour of screwing around, adding starter fluid etc., it finally went. Ran rough for a few minutes, but then fine all day. Replaced all the filters that night as they were due to be changed. A few days later, same thing. No starter fluid this time, just alternated holding it floored and not, took about 10 minutes to start, ran rough for a while then fine. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Ran fine for a week or so, then problem returned. This time I couldn't get it to go to save my life. I thought because it only happens in the morning that maybe condensation was the problem (it starts after sitting all day at work and it had rained heavily the night before). Checked all the electrical connections I could easily access and they all looked clean and dry. Plugged in the block heater and ran a hair drier on the distributor for half an hour, then it started first crank and ran great. Next time it happens I will only use the block heater and see if that works. Any ideas? It seems to me some sensor is telling it not to fire, but not sure.
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    jrod332jrod332 Member Posts: 1
    I Have a 1999 Chevy S10 4.3 Vortec. I am having a problem starting the truck when it sits for a while. It will crank over for several minutes. Once it starts and i run it, it will start all day with no issues. It only happens when it sits over night. The fuel pump turns on and has been replaced. The plugs, wires, and cap all have been done. Tried a new battery. Had hours of diagnostics done and have gotten nowhere. I just dont get why it is only when it sits. Its driving me crazy.

    Any Ideas?
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    drbobme1drbobme1 Member Posts: 5
    I have the same problem in a 98 Jimmy with 4.3 engine. I have gone thru distributor cap and rotor, plugs and wires. I now think it is the ignition switch because as I rock key in switch while turning over it starts right away but then misses for a few minutes when the accelerating until the engine is warm. Runs fine while at idle. I will be watching for any ideas fromothers.
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    droptops10droptops10 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1988 Chevy s10 2.8 2wd i cant get it to fire over i had done a transmission in it about 3weeks before she stopped i did cap rotor wires plugs and fuel pump and the egr but before i did that i was getting fire out the carburetor got a timing light she was dead on the money compression test all were at about 146-150 at this point i don't no what more it can be after changing everything I'm not getting fire out the carburetor its just not kicking over now the fuel is going down into the carburetor i did a o2 sensor to night and still have nothing not sure what more it can be
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    tolousetolouse Member Posts: 5
    so i changed the spark plugs to what my 2 haynes books say, also with what i had found online. and from 5 different sources, the firing orders are all the same for my '85 GMC S15 Sierra Classic. i had changed spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, and rotor. and had put the new wires on in the firing order that i was repeatedly told was the right way. but now it just doesn't want to fire.

    i had sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb to clean it out while i changed oil, oil filter, air filter, rotated the tires, etc. but i think i had either sprayed too much into the barrels to give it that rough turn over sound followed by backfire, or i now have it in the wrong firing order.

    i had taken the other cap off to change it out, but it never occurred to me to note which wires were where.

    since ran like a dream before. now i need help.
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    tolousetolouse Member Posts: 5
    i have an '85 GMC S15 Sierra Classic 2.8L V6 (Carb)

    ---edit---
    *Note: this is the last place i went to find the firing order for my truck.

    link title - Engine Firing Orders: 1985

    are these right?
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    That's the order. Next time replace the wires one at a time.
    You need to get #1 cylinder on compression stroke on timing mark, then see if the rotor points to the #1 plug wire. Some one may have removed the dist and timed it out of normal sequence.
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    tolousetolouse Member Posts: 5
    thanks. i was terribly tired from work 2 double shifts on daylight savings time before i started wahooing cables the other day.

    anyways, just went back out, detached the cables from the distributor, took the dist back off to verify the #1 (underneath the cap, there is 1 number that tells you which is for the #1). i also made sure the rotor was hitting the cap also. then i plugged each one in numerical sequence to the cap, to make sure that i had it right.

    after i had it all screwed down, plugged up (in my frustration yesterday, i had switched #2 and #6 on dist without verifying), i gave it a try.

    there was a spray that came from my carb. it smelt like the cleaner i had sprayed in there. i think i have flooded the carb with cleaner.

    after a few more tries and sprays, i decided to give it a rest for a few before i go back out there. because it sounds like it wants to turn, but hesitant because of the cleaner.

    i'll be back with an update on how it goes.
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    tolousetolouse Member Posts: 5
    i found the problem.

    the person who worked on my timing chain in 2001 had ended up turning it out 180. so where 3 would be (on the dist) is where #6 is. and where 4 would be is where #1 is.

    i don't know quiet that much about the timing chain to do it myself, but it runs. and seems to be working in that order. it has been in that order for the last 6 years.

    when i have time and a place to put it, i will definitely look at changing it back to factory specs.

    but, that is a project for a different time.

    either way, thanks for the help. i think i have learned alot about spark plug wires and the distributor within the last couple of days.
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    gonogogonogo Member Posts: 879
    Glad you got it going.
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    sbs57sbs57 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Sonoma 4.3 Vortec V6 with the same problem.....have u solved urs yet?
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    tolousetolouse Member Posts: 5
    mine is running like a dream now. the first day i drove it to work, i had smoke coming from under the truck, so i checked the plugs during my lunch. they all seemed fine, just covered in soot.

    after i had them all back in, i decided to crank it and give it a try. it fired up like a dream. and i drove it home with no flaws that afternoon. it was the greatest ride i had in a long time.

    i figured it was burning up the gunk after all the misfires and unsuccessful tries.

    but the first time i had hooked up the wires, i got alot of backfires and just wouldn't start. that was when i figured they must be turned turned out. mine was turned 180 degrees.
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    philscbxphilscbx Member Posts: 33
    You can always return the distributor to the original position as factory, but it might have been done the way it is now to make more space for it to move for final timing.

    You just line it up on number one on compression and pull out distributor and put it where you want it.
    It has to engage into the oil pump drive as well and cam gear at the same time and thats the tricky part to get it lined up where you want it to face.

    Have a tool on the crank to move it a little to make it settle in.

    Glad you figured it out..
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    mheroismherois Member Posts: 2
    i have had problems lately and it only happens on about every 15 starts.. i turn the key and it makes a sucking noise and tries to start and then i stop and try it again and it starts fine. i just cleaned my plugs and got a new air filter and checked for any loose wires. any suggestions??
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    gmcdriver1gmcdriver1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 automatic 4.3 litre Sonoma with about 139K miles. It has been running good. A few days ago it stalled while idoling, restarted fine without incident. I drove it a few miles, running fine, then I shut it off for about 5 minutes and it would not start. The fuel pump does not go on when the ignition is on. The idiot lights do not illuminate in the dash either. It will crank over but does not fire. Does anyone have any suggestions??

    Thanks.
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    misaelmisael Member Posts: 1
    I got the same prob, sonoma 01 sls 2x4 won't turn on, no fuel pump noises when ignition on @ first it just came back on by itself the next day, then just yesterday it quit on me again with the same issues but this time the fuel pump noises never came back I did get an ECM diagnosis trouble code of p1416 wich has to do with air pumps still doin research I'll keep u posted - please do the same for me thnx
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    bobpomeroybobpomeroy Member Posts: 7
    something shuts off all electricals. It will start with a jump. Seems to reload (lights flashing on instrument panel). During jump, acts like low battery, but battery checks out. it's a 2002 S10 v6 that runs like a watch except sometimes. Any info prognosis or advice?
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    bobpomeroybobpomeroy Member Posts: 7
    now what do I do, wait for an answer or check back in a few days?
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    bobpomeroybobpomeroy Member Posts: 7
    have you gotten an answer? Mine is 2002, so maybe wouldn't be relevant
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    michaelm5michaelm5 Member Posts: 7
    try the injectors
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