Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems
my 93 s-10 will not start after i drive it and it warms up...first time starting is fine, only when motor is warm it will not start...i can get it to start if i spray starting fluid in the throttle body though...any help is greatly appreciated..
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Comments
I havent changed the fuel filter at all in 81K mi.
The truck is a flex fuel E85 model, but only run regular gasoline.
Where should I start? Could low fuel PSI cause this problem?
Thanks!
Good luck,
Recently, it has stopped starting completely. It clicks continuously when I turn the key but doesnt even try cranking anymore.
My God, if anyone can spare this poor arseface from my anguish I would be forever grateful.
Ok here is an off the wall thought.
Will it Start when the tank is Below 1/2 full ??? I'm wondering if the pick up tube in the tank has a very tiny hole in it... once the fuel gets below the line it starts to suck air. If running it may just send some small amount of air into the gas system. If the engine/fuel pump stops - the fuel eventuall leaks our of the suction hole and when re- started, the pump can not suck fuel (Lost it's prime)...
Let us know what the solution is when you find it ...
When it's warm and dry out it runs pretty decent typically, when it's wet out, I can't get it to start hardly at all. And below 0 it refuses to do much of anything. ..It used to run great in weather up to -30. I've replaced the fuel pump, battery and fuel injector.
Some days it starts beautifully and some days it won't budge till I give it a bit of gas, but then I risk flooding hte engine. I'm at a complete loss. I'd trade it in, but I don't have the money for a monthly car payment.
I'm about to have them check the distributor cap and give it a tune up..but wanted to see if there was anything else I should have them look into.
Thanks!!
With this much information I would replace the spark plug wires, plugs, rotor, dist cap, a good tune up.
When you say you are going through starters, what is going on them? Are you having a starting problem because the vehicle won't start?
How many miles and when was the last time it had a tune up?
Is the check engine light on?
Has anyone checked the fuel pressure? More than likely, you will find a problem with the fuel pressure regulator.
...I'll be the first to admit, I don't know much under the hood. I can do some basic stuff myself, but I'm getting frustrated with taking it to the shop and them saying nothing is wrong when I know full good and well, SOMETHING is wrong.
was planning on a good tune up, I think the last one was at 75,000 miles.
Actually, I was reffering to farenheit, but I neglected to say with wind chill factored in, so I'm not sure the actual air temp.
The truck will typically crank, it just won't always fire. There has been a couple times where it just completely won't do anything. One of those times was when the interplanetary gear died.
Nothing comes up when they run a diagnostic scan so the chevy dealer in town won't believe me when I complain it won't start half the time. My old mechanic back in North Dakota knew something was wrong, but couldn't figure it out. which is what led me here, so I can attempt to figure out what it is and see if I can get one of the other local mechanics to believe me. I figure if I sound knowledgeable maybe they will take me seriously. Thank you to those that have already tried helping and to anyone else that might help!
I also have a 99 with a 2.2 but only 53K, don't drive it much, second vehicle.
Ty
1985 S10 PU 2.5 FI
Thamks
1990 S10 4x4 4.3litre.
Turned key on ... fuel pump ran. Engaged starter, engine turned fine, didn't catch. Turned key off and back on ... fuel pump ran. Hit gas pedal, turned engine over ... engine ran well for about 3 seconds then stopped dead. Turned key off and back on ... no fuel pump running. Connected a jumper straight to the fuel pump ... pump ran. Turned engine over ... no run. Added ether ... it ran as long as the ether lasted. With jumper, checked gas pressure at tank outlet (good), and at throttle body (good). Changed air valve assembly (with injectors) for a spare ... no difference, and engine still runs fine on ether.
It seems that the fuel pump and the injectors are not getting any electricity. Is there a particular sensor that would govern that? Would that kind of sensor show up on a code reader?
Thanks.
I will tried to start it for a certain period to verify that, even cold starting than hot starting, but it seems to be ok !!!
Any Ideas?
i had sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb to clean it out while i changed oil, oil filter, air filter, rotated the tires, etc. but i think i had either sprayed too much into the barrels to give it that rough turn over sound followed by backfire, or i now have it in the wrong firing order.
i had taken the other cap off to change it out, but it never occurred to me to note which wires were where.
since ran like a dream before. now i need help.
---edit---
*Note: this is the last place i went to find the firing order for my truck.
link title - Engine Firing Orders: 1985
are these right?
You need to get #1 cylinder on compression stroke on timing mark, then see if the rotor points to the #1 plug wire. Some one may have removed the dist and timed it out of normal sequence.
anyways, just went back out, detached the cables from the distributor, took the dist back off to verify the #1 (underneath the cap, there is 1 number that tells you which is for the #1). i also made sure the rotor was hitting the cap also. then i plugged each one in numerical sequence to the cap, to make sure that i had it right.
after i had it all screwed down, plugged up (in my frustration yesterday, i had switched #2 and #6 on dist without verifying), i gave it a try.
there was a spray that came from my carb. it smelt like the cleaner i had sprayed in there. i think i have flooded the carb with cleaner.
after a few more tries and sprays, i decided to give it a rest for a few before i go back out there. because it sounds like it wants to turn, but hesitant because of the cleaner.
i'll be back with an update on how it goes.
the person who worked on my timing chain in 2001 had ended up turning it out 180. so where 3 would be (on the dist) is where #6 is. and where 4 would be is where #1 is.
i don't know quiet that much about the timing chain to do it myself, but it runs. and seems to be working in that order. it has been in that order for the last 6 years.
when i have time and a place to put it, i will definitely look at changing it back to factory specs.
but, that is a project for a different time.
either way, thanks for the help. i think i have learned alot about spark plug wires and the distributor within the last couple of days.
after i had them all back in, i decided to crank it and give it a try. it fired up like a dream. and i drove it home with no flaws that afternoon. it was the greatest ride i had in a long time.
i figured it was burning up the gunk after all the misfires and unsuccessful tries.
but the first time i had hooked up the wires, i got alot of backfires and just wouldn't start. that was when i figured they must be turned turned out. mine was turned 180 degrees.
You just line it up on number one on compression and pull out distributor and put it where you want it.
It has to engage into the oil pump drive as well and cam gear at the same time and thats the tricky part to get it lined up where you want it to face.
Have a tool on the crank to move it a little to make it settle in.
Glad you figured it out..
Thanks.