Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Starting problems

Hawgpound

I am prety sure that i have the same problem with a conction going to computer my qustion is where do i find the computer feed to hook the jumper to ,,i have a 94 s10 any info will help thanks

amn81787

hi i have a 96 s-10 that i have done everything i can think of to try to get it running. it will crank but wont fire. i have new injectors, fuel pump, fuel regulator, crank sensor, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, nothing seems to be wrong i even took it to chevy dealer and thet told me it had bad gas so i cleaned that tank and put new gas in it and still it wont run they also told me that all my sensors where good. i have no idea what it could be and i really need help i have beeen working on it for a long time oh and it have good compression at 160psi any help would be nice thanks adam

bobpomeroy

but mine eventually fires. I think it has a bad sensor, but haven't gotten around to changing them. If your engine is computer driven, I think that's where you're heading eventually.

schuh8

Check spark and fuel flow by pulling a plug and an injector. If you have both, I would check all the sensor leads to make sure they're properly connected.

tomyg

You haven't mentioned the timeing belt.The truck is 12 years old.I would look at that.No matter what your sensors read.

bullseye1

having quirky problem as follows: 2.2 liter 4 will start and run normally at times...on other occassions will not start and all guage needles drop to zero at the same time....changed out head gasket about 6 weeks ago and runs cool when running....suspect electrical grounging problem....YOUR THOUGHTS?
thank you very much for your time.....

gonogo

Check connections for battery. At the battery, at the starter and the battery ground to engine.

metric1

86 Gmc s-15 2.8l 6 cyl 4x4

Hi everyone, any help you could offer would be more than greatly appreciated. I bought this truck over a month ago, so i am not super framiler with it yet, anyway it drove fine for the first 3 weeks of coarse, then one morning i went to the truck drove about 8 blocks could heard some squelling(which would happen for 20-30sec when truck started) the truck started to kick/jump as if it was running outta fuel, i put the accelerator down to keep it from stalling out, pulled over, it idled fine looked under the hood, nothing obviously out of the ordinary got back in when i tried to change from 1st to second again i lost power and had to hammer down the accelrator trying to get home drove sorta normal for about 8 blocks heading back, then started dying again and finally stalled out a block from home. After that could not start truck at all, engine just turns with no start, not even any kicking or combustion. Had a weak spark so replaced the wires coil, disct cap and rotor and plugs, so i have good spark to all 6 cylinders tested out good, there is fuel coming out of the tbi unit, i can hear the fuel pump start and i replaced the pump relay to make sure that was not of issue, i have not been able to start car with starting fluid or pouring gas in...running outta ideas here...if you have a suspesion or something i should check please let me know! Thanks alot!
-Chris

gvestal

try to start car then a quick flame shoots up from where the fuel injectors are and flames dies out

gvestal

almost forgot,1991,s-10,blazer,4.3

fran4066

Does any one know if one can swap a 4.5 V6 from a 2005 Malibu into a 1999 Chevy S10 with a 4.3 V6, what would be the changes that need to be made, if any.
Thank you for your help

CDII

I am no expert, but I am sure you cant. I think front wheel drive motors turn oppisite direction than a rear wheel drive motor. Also just for info, look up 3.4 camaro engine swap. Hope this helps.

olehambone

I have a 94 gmc sonoma, v6, manual trans. about 200,000miles. Great truck. A couple weeks ago when starting it would be real slow like the battery was getting weak. Now when I turn the key I get nothing, no click or nothing. Lights work etc. service engine light comes on. So I took battery out and had it checked. It was ok.
Someone said it had to be alternator. I replace alternator, still nothing, no sound or click. Now someone said it must be starter. Where is the starter on this truck and I thought if it was the starter I should hear a clicking sound? What do you think?

jayoebee

I have a 99 sonoma w/4.3 h.o. It was cranking and finally would catch after 2-3 attempts. I cleaned out the iac motor and the ports and intake sensors. It'll start right up for the first few attempts then it will just crank and not catch at all. Once it is started and running it will start up immediately but if it sits overnite it wont start at all. Any input would be greatly appreciated

caloke

i have a 1986 chevy s10 blazer and it was in a small accedent when it was brought home it was running normal then just shut off and now will not start, has no fire, that injetor are not spraying but they have power to them, and the svc engine light dose not come on at all,can not get any code from the ECM its like its not there, have checked; fuel pump(ok), battery(ok), timimng(ok), change ECM from another running truck(no change in problom) :sick:

gonogo

Sounds like no power to the ecm, did you check the fuses. Should be an ECM B and ECM 1. Not that familiar with a 86, it does sound like a power problem, short maybe.

mechcommander

2000 s10 4.3 vin w center injection getting fuel it just died on me and never would start back so im gonna start with the obvious and do a process of elimination if any one is familiar with this problem any help would be greatly appreciated.

erg1

I am having a problem close to that same thing. after reading one of the responces on this web site I think I am going to try what they suggested, running a power wire from the battery to the power block on the firewall, the one the courtsy light goes to. It seams to me I heard about this problem a long time ago but had forgoten it. Anyway, Ill give it a try and let you know how it works out. If you decide to try it, let me know how it works for you. GOOD LUCK!!! erg1

wtpooh43

My 1999 2.2L S10 fails to engage the starter after the engine warms up. Now slow down, it only happens 2 times ever 30 days. Next, if you leave the key in the "on" position for 3 to 10 minutes, and then turn it to the "start:" position, it will then engage the starter and crank. What is happening?

gonogo

Check the electrical connections, poor connection are known to be intermittent.

erg1

It sounds like your ignition switch is getting worn out.Not the key switch where you put your key in but on the top side of the steering column there is a metal rod that runs out of your key switch down to your ignition switch, which is mounted on slots so it can be adjusted, although I would suggest replacing it if possible, but I know money is tight. Good Luck with it and let me know how it works out for you! erg1

erg1

This really sounds like the ignition switch (half way down your steering column, on top) not your key switch! Im sure that will fix your problem. good luck erg1

stenowner

Hello,
So I swapped in the instrument panel in my 99 S10 with used unit. The PRND... had gone out. The new unit seems to work perfectly in every way but the truck will now not start. I get the solenoid click but that's all . Does not turn over all. The voltage meter reads no more than 10V but as I recall you never got he full 14V until the engine was actually running. So, before I re-install the old unit , Is there anything related to the instrument panel that would prevent the truck from starting. Where else can I look for problems. As I said I get solenoid click, instruments light up, engine does not even attempt to turn over.

Thanks in Advance

John

gonogo

Sounds like a dead battery, the click means it is trying to start.

erg1

I think you need to check th
e battery it should have about 12.5 V with no load and yes 14.3 after starting

cbowles

Iv got a 1984 chevy s-10 and when i turn the key nothing happens! the radio, heater, and windshield wipers don't work. I'v tested my battery and its fine and i put a new starter motor in a few months ago. Im thinking its an ignition problem..... any ideas for how i can fix this???

gonogo

Check your starter connections, all vehicle power starts there.

cbowles

i checked that and all the wires are in running order. i also discovered the lights work.... so there is power to the car.

gonogo

Check out the ignition switch, not the key one, the electrical one. There will be a rod from the key switch down to it.
Don't have to much information on a 25 year old truck. The switch will power certain fuses, that is a good place to start, no power at your fuses then trace to where it should come from. All the ones you listed with no operation, are switch powered.

v6er

Did you get an answer to your problem. I have the same problem no matter whether engine or outside temperature is cool or hot. Changed out spark plugs, wires, fuel filter and checked fuel pump relay. Is it sticking injector, electrical or other? I don't hear familar fuel injecting sound when turn key on prior to start up. Any help would be great, tired of manual fuel injection!

v6er

I've had my 96 S10 since 96. It stopped starting without manual injection of starting fluid. Runs fine once its going. I don't hear the same fuel pump sound at start up. In message 133 someone taked about installing a jumper wire from battery to junction box next to heater on firewall. They said the little trouble light wire runs to this junction. On my truck I can't find the junction box. There is a black plastic covering on the sidewll near the power brake booster and anti lock brake unit. it has four bolts for wire connections some of which have heavy duty red wires connected. According to the 133 message a wire that comes up from a sensor at the oil pan (or starter?) that feeds power through the dash to the computer commonly corrodes. He said easy fix, but if I wanted to leave the jumper wire in - put in a 60 or 80 amp fuse as charging circuit was involved. I live half mile from ocean so things could get corroded.
I heard that a fuel pressure of 30 lbs or less was bad. Would low pressure prevent an engine start? Good pressure is 50-65 lb. However, I don't smell fuel in the intake after turning key to start without pumping gas pedel which indicates fuel pump is not being told to pump at start up. I also read from another message 108 that if the TPS is bad it won't signal the ECM that it needs fuel as it is telling it that it is not starting. What is a TPS?
I've replaced the inexpensive - plugs, plug wires, fuel pump relay, and checked fuses. I don't want to replace fuel pump or coil or distributor or ECM or injectors until I get better intel.
Reliability report at MSN Autos for 1996 S10 says common problem on this vehicle are failures of the fuel pump, fuel injectors and EGR valve passages. Failure of the fuel pump and fuel injectors may prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the fuel pump is est 250 parts 130 labor. The cost to repair the fuel injectors is est 95 parts 195 labor. The cost to repair the EGR passages is 16 parts 58 labor.
I have 150K miles without tuneup and never used a fuel injector cleaner solution in gas.
I've read there are a number of sensors that can tell whether the engine is hot or cold which if messed up could cause a similar no start problem. However, my problem persists hot or cold. I can restart without starting fluid if done within about 15 minutes of a shut off. Some gas must not have evaporated yet.
The check engine light goes on and stays on for a week or two then goes off for months. I never had the code checked.
Has anyone fixed this problem for good and how?

jonhowell21

I have 98 s10 with 2.2 i have problems starting it in the winter and sometimes in the summer in the mornings some times it will start fine and other times it will drain the battery and not start at all unless i hold the throttle to the floor it will start then but it runs at a really low idol and spits and sputters and smokes alot. any ideas

jonhowell21

mickey_m3

Hello,

We were searching possible problems for our 2002 S10 4.3 as it began with misfire and he replaced the Spider Injection (brand new), complete tune up and truck has good fuel pressure 65 lbs. at idle. Nothing is working and were are at lost. The truck runs, however random misfiring at cyl. 3 and will not rev up. We came across your post and noticed that you a lot of made sense. Any help is greatly appreciated.

mickey_m3

I am searching possible problems for our 2002 S10 4.3 as it began with misfire and he replaced the Spider Injection (brand new), complete tune up, replaced distributor, crank / cam sensor, coil module and truck has good fuel pressure 65 lbs. at idle. Nothing is working and were are at lost. The truck runs, however random misfiring at cyl. 3 and will not rev up. We just bought the truck used and only able to use for 1 week. We have dropped over $1000 in repairs and he wants to junk but I wanted to see if there was any saviour for it. Any help is greatly appreciated.

hoodlatch

Sounds to me like your throwing a ton of money at it with out pin pointing to source of the problem. Is it giving you any codes? What did the plugs look like that you took out? At what stage does it miss fire? How many miles is on the engine. When you pulled the distributor what shape were the plug wires in? Couple of weeks ago my s10 was missing at cyl 4 and I discovered I broke the Porcelain on the plug when I replaced it.

gonogo

You never mentioned cat converter. Have you checked that with a vacuum gauge or pressure gauge.

medic09

I recently bought a 2000 s-10 2.2L manual transmission. It stopped starting only 3 weeks in. I cursed it up and down for two days trying to trace the problem. The order of events began one evening when it took a while to turn over. I cranked it three or four times and finally got it to turn over. The next morning was a different story. It tried to turn over for a while and finally stopped cranking. Long story short I cleaned the starter and the wires running to that, and at least after that it tried cranking again. Finally a mechanic friend got his hands on it. Seems the fuel filter was shot, which i hear is common, and he replaced that, but with no change in status. He was about to drop the tank and remove the fuel pump when he first decided to test all the wires running to the pump. I understand this is a miserable process. At any rate, they all tested ok, but somehow after detaching and reattaching, the fuel pump came on and started working properly. He hypothesized that resistance built up and the pump overheated. Whether this is right or not, the truck now runs. So, try undoing all your fuel pump wires and reattaching them. May just work for you too.

gonogo

That connector is a known problem, if it bothers again have the tech put in a new repair connector, they get burned from high resistance.
And clean the pump contacts.

mc22x3

help if you ever found out witch wire it was please tell me.
thank you

mc22x3

help if you ever found the problem let me know what it was.

g_wynne_1

My 92 S10 4cyl is having some major electrical problems and now refuses to start, and I think its due somehow to the brakes. I came out the other day and the engine would crank but not turn over. I'd been having some electrical issues (when i turn on my heat, my stereo would go out) and figured maybe my battery had somehow been drained. Went and had the battery tested and it was still good. When i put the battery back in i got inside and pressed the clutch and the brake and attempted to start it, and all my electrical went out, no cranking, nothing. When i just pressed the clutch and not the brake to try to start it cranked, but still wouldn't turn over. When i have accessories on but not the engine then press the brake pedal, everything goes out. Is there some sort of electrical connection to the brakes that could be causing this to happen? I'm in dire need of getting this truck up and running, so any advice would be greatly helpful.

gonogo

You have a poor electrical connection, at battery, battery wires to ground or power to starter. All power starts at the starter solenoid, lots of wires on it.
The brake lights are drawing what little power is getting through the poor connection.

onecowboysc

I hope people are still watching these forums. I have a 2001 GMC sonoma 4.3 v6. A few months ago my truck started not turning over when I try to start it. This would happen maybe once or twice a month. With in the last few weeks the truck will not start at all even if I sit there and turn the key several, several, several time. It use to catch and start. I have all my dash lights, buzzers when I turn the key but when I try to start it all I can hear is the relay click once. The battery was replace last summer, I just bought a new starter the other day, I replaced the relay in the relay box but still it will not turn over. No starter clicking, no grinding, no nothing. Does anyone have an idea on what else could be the problem ? Please help this is the only car I own and can not afford to take it to a shop.

hoodlatch

Does your 01 have a chip on the key?

gonogo

In the engine fuse box, check for power at IGN C fuse, start solenoid. Check for power at IGN A fuse start and charge.

onecowboysc

No there is no chip on my keys

onecowboysc

Ok thank you. I will have to talk to a family member to see if they have a way to check those. I do not. ( shade tree/red neck/poor lol) Two things I did notice since we changed the starter. The day time running lights are not coming on either. I can turn them on by the light switch but when I put the key in the ignition and turn it my D/T lights are not coming on. And my RMP and MPH gauges are reading max. They are all the way to the right with out the truck turned on or even when I turn the truck on and try to start it the gauges do not move. Would that be something in the key ignition ?
Thank you

gonogo

That was area I was heading for, the electrical ignition switch power certain fuses. NOT the key switch, the electrical switch at the bottom of the steering column. Lots of times the 2 are confused. The fuses can be checked for power with a cheap 12 volt tester bought in any parts store.

sandhillcwby

ok so my 91 s-10 starts fine cold but after it warms up and you try to start it, it acts like the battery is dead. If you let it set and cool down for an hour or so it starts back up just fine. I have cleaned all the connections and made sure they were tight. Could the starter be getting hot from the exhaust?