Oh, My Goodness! It was a super good deal at $850, and now it can be had for $670!
If you are getting a Sport, there is no reason that I know of NOT to get this AAS package! You may never need the extra strength of the Dana 44, but it sure ain't gonna hurt anything. You WILL enjoy those beautiful Ravine wheels, and the 3.73 gearing is nice for the present and allows the possibility of larger tires in the future.
OK, some folks really like ABS, and I'm not sure if that AAS package still allows you to get ABS. That Dana 44 rear might prevent you from getting ABS. For me, it was no big deal to skip the ABS on Thelma Jane.
If anybody EVER tries to justify a Wrangler purchase based solely on logic, it will lose every time IMO. There is no logic to justify a Wrangler.
It is slow. Gas mileage is non-existant. There is no storage room (in the SWB version). They are noisy.
So why would anybody want one?
One word: FUN!
They are without a doubt, one of the few vehicles that can consistently bring a smile to my face while even thinking about it (the others are supercars like McLaren's, Ferraris, etc).
Right now it is raining outside and my jeep is in the driveway with a RainGear cover on it, not being driven today. Knowing that Kermit is there just waiting for me to take him for a spin makes me smile. The fun of customizing it, the fun of working on it, the fun of driving it and using it for its intended purpose.... man, nothing is better. Throw in a beautiful day (okay, just ANY day) and you're set.
Follow your heart, life is too short to NOT do the things you want to do.
If I had my druthers, I'd be picking up a Patriot Blue Rubi Unlimited with a 6 speed manual. But since I have my 97 TJ, I'm content with that and having the time of my life driving it!
BTW, mac, you can take off that chrome grille cover on the Sahara Unlimited. Line-X it!
I've already put in my 2 cents on this issue, but I thought I'd add one more comment (said as I step up on my soapbox). I think that everyone should know how to drive a manual. It gives you a much better understanding and feeling for a vehicle (as well as being fun SOME of the time). It isn't all that hard, though it does take practice. I've never been able to understand other women who don't want to learn how, who somehow think it is beyond them. I learned when I was 18 (when you have 3 cars and 3 drivers, guess who gets the manual without air conditioning) and I've never regretted it. If possible, let your wife take a driving lesson with someone who has a manual (NOT YOU - NEVER GIVE LESSONS TO YOUR SPOUSE ON ANYTHING!). Then she can make an informed decision (I'm off my soapbox now).
Personally - I like the auto for off-roading (not as easy to spin your tires) and in-town traffic (don't have to shift as much). I prefer the manual for slow-n-go freeway traffic (put it in 2nd gear and you rarely have to use the brakes) and for snowy roads (let the engine provide the braking and speed control). I'm perfectly happy now with the auto in the Unlimited.
If you decide on an Unlimited, you won't have to worry about the axle - they come with the Dana 44 standard.
Mike - do you have a Jeep yet? Can't wait to read your post saying you picked it up!
ABS is available with the Tire & Wheel Group. It is a $600 option.
Here is what I got on my Sport:
Auto tranny (never owned a stick, not chancing it) 30" Tire & Wheel Group (no explanation needed here) Security Group (better insurance rate) Add-a-Trunk (for keeping honest people honest) Dual Tops (stipulation of the GF) Floor Mats (why not?) Cruise Control (better gas mileage - lots o' highway driving) Locking Fuel Cap (had mine stolen on my '95 Cherokee) Smokers Group (extra power outlet and the ocassional butt) ABS (like it - better insurance rate) Side Steps (like the look) Trac Lok Rear Differential (need I explain?)
MSRP came to $28,560. I am getting it for 1% below dealer invoice. I have to see if I still qualify for the DC incentives ($750 cash and $500 military)
I will probably never go offroad (unless backing into the garden counts...) with this one and i built it with "the road" in mind. But you never know......
For the rest of you, I posted in that "other" forum and asked how many people would still want their Jeeps if they knew they could never go off road again. The members of that particular website almost all go off road on a regular basis.
There would be no sense posting that question here, since very few of us here off road at all.
Of course, I expressed my opinion that a Jeep is a ton of fun, even ON the pavement, and that I would definitely still want my Jeep, even if I could never go off road again. (Let's hope it never comes to that, though, cause wheelin' is SO much fun!)
That sounds like a really nice rig - can't wait until you post some photos of it.
I have side steps on the Unlimited and find that I use them all the time (probably because I'm so short). However, we removed them from the Sport when we started off-roading more - it is very easy to tear them off on the trail. I've off-roaded both Wranglers on easy trails with them on and not had a problem - it is when you start getting into the more extreme stuff, narrow rocky trails or where your approach/departure angles become an issue that they become a liability. You can always think about doing something like nerf bars sometime later if you find you want the added ground clearance. The side boards are easy to remove.
Are you saying you were able to get the Dana 44 AND ABS??? That is super, if that is the case, but I don't think it used to be that way.
You were smart to get set up for off road, even if you don't think you will be going off road. I made sure to get the Dana 44, and I had no plans to go off road. I just figured that if a heavier axle was available, why not get it?
Well, I'm SO glad that I got that Dana 44 and that I got the 3.73 gearing! They are both important to what I do with my Jeep now.
Thanks Keats..is it going to a 2005 or a 2006 model?.....I'm looking at all the rebates now and wondering what's going to happen in the next month or two. right now there is a 1000 back for financing 500 veteran and 750 = ...2250 ain't bad...but i really want solar yellow.....My thinking is that if it's a 2005..the rebates will stay the same...if it's a 2006...probably just a military rebate. Thanks for the input!!...by the way..where did you hear this at? thanks, Lew
Today in the mail.. I got my Title!! Soo TAZZ is ALL mine, doesnt belong to Chrysler Finacial.. Now time to start adding on to TAZZ. Starting with bigger tires. Already started my Piggy Bank fund.
Still love that jeep from the 1st day I drove it home!
I read about it on the Rubicon Owner's Forum. Some folks on there are foaming at the mouth for solar yellow. I'm sure it must be on '05. DC makes mid year paint changes periodically, at least on Jeeps. To me, though, this smacks of consumer or dealer demand just like going back to the black flares two months into the model year...
Surprisingly, if you really want to do a swap, installing a V8 into a SE engine bay is no more work than an I6.
Unless you have a fully equipped workshop and can get the required parts cheaply, it's much easier and cheaper to sell your SE and buy a Wrangler with an I6.
My jeep is stone white and the top is what they call kiwi...color between grey and tan...I love it and people stare at this thing all the time. Hope you find one like it...it does draw attention and lots of waves. Good luck...Keith
Sorry I didn't see this later post. The color is stone white and the top is kiwi, not grey or tan...right in between and it's great. I love automatics and have used them for years. I went with the manual in this Jeep because of the lower gear ratio...the auto is just too high for where I go off-roading and high in the mountains of Colorado. Depends on what you plan to do and how your going to use your Jeep. Tom is right, be sure you get the 3:73 rear end regardless. Determine what % of driving will be in town and what % off-road...the manual is not fun if lots of heavy traffic and city driving. I use my Jeep mostly for off-road so shifting is no big deal and I need the low first gear...this thing will crawl in 1st and low range...the automatic didn't perform like I wanted. Glad to hear you and your wife are on the same page...and good luck in your decision. I got everything I wanted on the Jeep right off the floor. 3:73 rear end, 7 speaker stereo with sub-woofer, leather wrapped steering wheel with cruise control, etc. I have already stored the back seat in bubble wrap and a box since we are 100% by ourselves in this thing and off-roading. It's hard to believe how much stuff we can get in there...and really like the longer wheelbase ride. We're heading for 10 days in Utah backcountry so can hardly wait to put some mud on the the thing and scratches on the body...then you can relax and have fun!
Isn't that the BEST feeling - getting that title in the mail? You'll definitely have to post photos of your mods as you go along. Are you going to give Tazz a bath/wax to celebrate?
Next thing you know everyone will be washing bugs off their front grills with paper towels! We'll all be picking up the Tomster's habits and enthusiasm!
I am brand new to this forum, so hi everyone. I have been following the posts for a while. I am going to buy a wrangler in the next few weeks, and my biggest questions are:
What dealer packages / options do you consider unnecessary? Does the add-a-trunk work?
Is the 6 cyl worth it? Most of my driving will be in congested big city traffic, with weekend getaways to the mountains. Not necessarily strict off-roading. My understanding is the power of the wrangler 6 cyl translates to increased low-end torque, rather than speediness. Do people feel that the 4cyl is adequate in the situation I described?
If I get the wimpier axles, can I still off-road (realistically only lightly) reasonably well or will I splinter in 2 out in the middle of moose country? Same question, accept now for the 30 inch tires. Will I have the option of putting 30 inch wheels on after market without a lift or modifications?
How do New Englanders feel about top options? This will be my only vehicle, which I will use year round, mostly for fun, since I do not need to commute. Ideally, I would like to get both a hard and soft top. Is the dealer package the best way to achieve this, or is after market better?
Is the standard radio loud enough to hear on highways at cruising speed with soft top, or is the upgrade more reasonable?
Is AC necessary? Does it work well with a soft-top?
I would really like to spend less than $20,000 total, if possible. Any suggestions/experiences regarding what would be the best combo for a "bargain" new hybrid city/mountain 2-person (me & hubby) wrangler would be super appreciated. My green side feels a bit guilty about fuel efficiency. I don't currently have a car, so the more info I have when heading to the dealership, the better.
Hi, I'm installing a radio in a 1997 Jeep Wrangler. I purchased the vehicle recently and it didn't have any radio installed. Unfortunately the manuals are gone too. Does anyone know which fuse I need to check? I'm not sure one was ever put into the fuse box at the manufacturer.
If anyone has a picture of the fuse box diagram/schematic from a Wrangler Owner's Manual that would probably answer my question too.
Hi Mindy. I'm not even close to being the tech expert of the group, but I'll adress what I can.
I do a lot of city driving and freeway (expressway) driving, so the 4 cyl was never an option for me. I did test a 4 cyl with manual transmission. Driving stick gets a little more out of it.
I have the add a trunk. Enh. I would still buy it again, but given its size they should really call it Add-a-Glove Box. And I installed a bag on the rear door, which when full is hard to close against the trunk. Still, there are times when I'm glad it's there, to throw valuabes in. And it's easily removed.
Axles and tires I can't speak to.
As a former New Englander, yeah, you might need the dual top or hard top. I will say the air and heat work very well in the soft top. And a/c will be invaluable in a muggy New England August.
I ponied up for the 7 speaker subwoofer package. Have nothing to compare it too, but the wind noise when the top's down (and the road noise with the top up) made that an easy choice. A lot of people say you can do better and cheaper in after market sound systems, but I didn't want to take the time. I wanted the Jeep ready to go when I picked her up.
Sounds like maybe the X package might be good for you. The basest 6 cyl model they have, with a few bells and whistles. An affordable compromise b/w the 4 cyl SE and the 6 cyl Sport.
Start with a stripped Jeep on paper, then go through the list and see what you need vs. want. Sometimes the "needs" are part of packages that get you "wants" too. And you never have to settle for what's on the lot. Many people here, me included, special ordered Jeeps and got exactly what we wanted.
My attitude, and it's not for everyone, is when you're talking about $20,000, bettter to spend an extra grand and make the whole investment worth it, than try to save a few bucks and not enjoy what you did get. If you get out for 19 grand, but never really like the vehicle, then you've wasted 19 grand. Also, lump sums sound daunting, but when you factor option prices into monthly payments over a five year loan, sometimes we're just talking tens of dollars per month. But I have the luxury of that kind of thinking. No kids, no responsibilities, etc.
Walking into a dealership is never a good experience. I adopted a method from The Motley Fool, to fax fleet managers a description of the Jeep I wanted, and a deadline to make me an offer. 2 out of 10 responded, but they didn't know that. And one came back with a really attractive offer. Not once did I have to haggle with anyone.
Finally, there was a recent discussion here 2-3 weeks ago about Jeeps and the environment. My take is that cars are cars, and everything else is splitting hairs / variations on a theme until the next technological leap. (BTW, Happy Earth Day everyone!)
Is the 6 cyl worth it? Most of my driving will be in congested big city traffic, with weekend getaways to the mountains. Not necessarily strict off-roading. My understanding is the power of the wrangler 6 cyl translates to increased low-end torque, rather than speediness. Do people feel that the 4cyl is adequate in the situation I described?
Hi, Mindy! Welcome to the board.
To answer your question above, the 4.0L I-6 is what you need for the weekends in the mountains. The four banger would do the job in town, but not on the highway. As far as off roading, the four banger does just as well as the six. When you are in the lower gears, as in town or on the trails, the four banger is fine.l It's out on the highway that the four comes up way short, especially in hilly or mountainous terrain.
If I get the wimpier axles, can I still off-road (realistically only lightly) reasonably well or will I splinter in 2 out in the middle of moose country? Same question, accept now for the 30 inch tires. Will I have the option of putting 30 inch wheels on after market without a lift or modifications?
You probably don't need the Dana 44 for the type of off roading you would be doing, but it sure will not HURT anything, and you really do want to get the 3.73 gearing that comes with the 30" wheel and tire package. A few posts up the screen, you will see a discussion about the AAS package. It's an unbelievable bargain at $670! You get the 30" tires, the gorgeous Ravine wheels, gas shocks, and the Dana 44 heavy dury rear axle. There may be a way to get the 3.73 gearing without the 30" tires... not sure.
Mindy, best thing you can do is read a BUNCH of the posts in here. Reading these may bring some issues to light that you would not have thought to ask about.
We love to talk Jeep around here, so ask all the questions you want.
To get your best deal, put things in terms of invoice. Call a bunch of dealers and ask the simple question, "For how much in relation to invoice will you sell me a new Jeep?" This way the deals you get on differently equipped Jeeps can be directly compared. Obviously, a Jeep with more options will cost more, but you would expect that to be true. You can STILL compare how much that Jeep is being offered for vs. invoice. Since you don't have a trade in, it will be REALLY easy for you to get the best possible deal.
Maybe my little website about my buying experisnce would be useful to you.
For mild trail riding and offroading the lighter D35 will work fine for you. It comes in to play when you do things like rocks or are in a situation when the tires are stuck and you apply torque. The D35 can handle the 30" tires (I have them on my SE right now). If you want to go up to 33" and larger, the D44 would probably be a better choice for you. With those axles you also need to consider gearing. 3.73 gearing or lower (meaning higher number, like 4.11) will handle larger tires better, at the expense of RPM's and mileage.
I'd go dual top up in the northeast. Cheapest way to do it from the get-go. You also need to consider full vs half height doors. Hard top comes with full doors usually, but you can add the half doors for when you have the soft top (or go w/o doors entirely).
AC will work fine with a soft top, but in NE, do you really need it? Better to have it and not need it though, than to to not have it and really need it (like for a road trip to a warmer clime).
Aftermarket wheels will give you better (more) backspacing, making the tires/wheels stick out a bit more from the Jeep. This will give you stability and the ability to run larger tires down the road (no pun intended) should you decide to go bigger. Larger tires mean a lift also (if over 31") but that is for later.
My stock stereo was pathetic with only 2 speakers and no CD. I went aftermarket. If you want factory, go with the 7 speaker option.
Either way, realize that security is important in a Jeep. I have a tuffy console for securing my subwoofer and a few electronics I sometimes carry. NEVER lock a soft top door, it just begs to get sliced if somebody wants in. Never keep valuables in it overnight or for any length of time.
If you DO opt for a 4cyl, go with a manual. You will probably find the 4cyl inadequate for driving up into mountains on a highway, but it is nice for flat highway and in-town cruising. I lived in Cali and lived at 4200 ft. Work was at 2000 ft. Driving the TJ up that grade on a windy day... goodbye 5th, goodbye 4th, hello 3rd. I'd go with a 6 cyl.
Options there: X - basic 6 cyl with D35 rear, D30 front axles Sport - 6 cyl with a few more goodies standard, D44 is an option Rubicon - top of the line
You CAN get an X model with a D44 if you want. It is in the Rocky Mountain Edition. Nice little package... - 7 Speakers with Subwoofer and Tweeters - Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats - Fog Lamps - Heavy Duty Dana 44/226mm Rear Axle - High-Pressure Gas-Charged Shock Absorbers - Instrument Panel with Black Bezel - Premium Fender Flares - Rocky Mountain Edition Badge - 30" Tire & Wheel Group - 15" x 8.0" "Ravine" Aluminum Wheels -- 3.73 Axle Ratio -- 30X9.50R15LTB Wrangler OWL A/T Tires
With these Jeeps and the mild trail running you sound like you want to do, armor may not be a big deal, but if you get into severe trails with trees, rocks, and such, gas skids, steering box skids, rocker protection (under the doors) and a winch are something you might want to consider. You may not want it now, but you may find down the road, like Tom did, that offroading is fun and the jeep can do a LOT of cool stuff. But you want to protect it so you can get home!
1. I don't like the add-a-trunk. I don't think it adds all that much security, it's small and because I was often hauling a Golden Retriever in the back to hiking trails, it would have been very much in the way. I ended up taking the back seat out of the Sport several years ago, and use it now for a saddle rack under my stairs. That said, I live in a pretty safe neighborhood and never leave anything in the soft top Jeep overnight.
2. The 6 cylinder will be worth it if you spend any time on the highway. Wranglers are not very quiet vehicles to begin with and then add in the staining of a smaller engine - you are definitely better off with the 6. Besides, there isn't very much difference in the mpg ratings between the 2.
3. Until you get into some more technical off-roading, the lighter axle is fine. If you can get the Dana 44, do it. But if it comes down to getting the D35 or not getting a Jeep, then get the Jeep. If you get smaller tires, you can always add the 30" wheels later - there will be enough room no matter which axle or body style you have. As others have mentioned, you might have issues with the gearing if you get the 3.07 gears and go with bigger tires later, but you won't need a lift. There are really 2 reasons to get the 30" tires - first is for additional ground clearance (do you need it for where you will be going?) and the second for looks.
4. Tops - if you have a garage then going for the dual tops makes sense. If you think you might want both tops, also go that route - it is cheaper to get the dual top option than to go aftermarket (well, today in the age of ebay it may no longer be, but it sure was back in '98 when I bought the Sport). I don't have a garage and so never considered the dual top option - I have no place to store the hard top, and no easy way to get it off, either. Our soft top Unlimited got us easily through this winter. I missed the really big snow fall we had this year, so I don't know how the soft top would have held up to close to 2 foot of snow one evening. However, it did fine during the snow we had (say, 6 inches in a night) and the top doesn't make much difference when it comes to temperature - the hard top isn't insulated, so they offer about the same protection from the cold. The heater can handle temps down to 0 F easily.
5. I'm not the best one to answer your radio question - my soft top is an Unlimited and it has extra padding and sound insulation. It is quieter than my hardtop Sport. The Unlimited also has the 7 speaker option and I'm happy with it. I did change out the radio because I wanted the Alpine head that includes the XM tuner in it. The Sport has the '98 standard radio (only 2 speakers, no soundbar) and I can hear it easily if I turn it up (the quality isn't very good though). The sound pods are now standard, which are definitely better.
6. AC is necessary for any vehicle out here in SoCal. We haven't had any really hot weather since I got the soft top so I'm not sure how effective the AC will be (though it worked well the one time last year when it was in the 90s going across the Mojave desert). We've never had a problem in the hard top Sport, and it's a black vehicle, so I'm not anticipating any problems. Besides, you won't be using the AC if the top is down.
Hi Keith - Thanks for info in both your responses. I test-drove an automatic trans Unlimited from the dealer and drove it to my house only a few miles away. I let my wife drive it back to the dealer via some very nasty dirt roads in our area. She couldn't believe how smoothly and well-controlled it was on those bumps, dips, and washboard. She now understands that it would be a fun addition to our family. I'm going to go with auto since she says she's very unlikely to drive it if it's a stick.
Regarding your top/interior color...you called it "kiwi" but I'm wondering if you meant "kahki". My 2005 Wrangler brochure only shows black and kahki as top/interior/fender color options. Again, just want to be sure I get it right because your Wrangler looks sweet! I wish you a good trip to Utah...sounds fun!
I have a 95 Jeep wrangler with full steel doors and the passenger side door doesn't want to open. When I pull the handle I have to pull both the inside and out side handles to get the door to open. What is the problem with the door what part should I replace? Is it the handle on the inside, outside, or the mechanical things on inside?
My Jeep Wrangler is running to rich I have had to replace my muffler twice because it was getting to hot and falling apart, good thing it had a lifetime warranty. I finaly just went ahead and put in a magnaflow which I was told wouldn't break from the heat. Some one told me I should replace the oxygen sensor do you think this will solve the problem?
Greetings Tom and everyone. I Have been in Toronto Canada since Thursday. Nice Jeep trip in Rosie. Left Connecticut at 9am and arrived at my Sister in Laws house at 6pm. Rained almost all the way. Its the longest trip I have taken in a Wrangler. Very interesting, Stayed at 65 all the way. Of course everyone else is going 80! No leaks with the soft top but some white knuckle driving but not the water you got with Ross Allen. All the Canadian Jeeps I have seen have a TJ decal on the side. Interesting. Heading back on Sun. More rain in the forcast for the trip. Not one wave yet. Perhaps its my grey beard? Go Easy, John
unless you are too busy driving around your new Jeep, did ya get it today? As someone who has waited as long as you, I need to live vicariously through others until mine gets here. Please, tell us.
Thanks Keats,...sorry I missed this post...I don't know what the heck is going on .....Seems lately that everytime I try to post it doesn't show up....so I try reposting and then the next day all of them show up (go figure)...anyway I hope your right about the yellow. thanks! Lew
I stumbled upon this site today while aimlessly searching the web, and have been reading postings for about 2 hours now. I've got a mechanical question, actually two, about some problems I have with my Sport. Its a 2000 and i've had to replace the radiator and the water pump (the latter was messed up partly because of the radiator and mostly because of me) anyway, ever since i've replaced the parts, i've had to add about a gallon of fluid every month yet i cannot, for the life of me, find a leak anywhere, just wondering if yall had any ideas... now for the real question: i have to drive 30 minutes on the highway every day to get to work/school. when i get there, every time i have to stop (say at a stop sign or stop light) and i have to make a turn (from a stopped position) a clicking noise is heard, and felt. this same thing also happens when i'm coming to a stop and turning at the same time. It is very noticable and very disturbing. yet it only happens after i make the long drive. this is a problem because the mechanics that i take it to cannot reproduce the noise, and therefore dont know what is causing it. If anyone has any ideas i'd love to hear them :sick:
I won't go through all the possible causes of coolant loss, as your mechanic should know what they are if he/she knows their job. However, one point often overlooked is that the more recent I6 engines use a reverse rotation water pump. If a pump specified for an earlier model is used then overheating followed by coolant loss usually ensues.
If the weird noise only occurs after a thirty minute drive, why not take the scenic route to your mechanic. It's not reasonable to expect them to take a long drive in order to reproduce the noise, unless you want to pay the normal rate for their time.
"...What is the problem with the door what part should I replace?..."
Not being psychic I can't tell you, but if it was my Jeep I'd remove the door trim panel and have a look at the mechanism to see what had broken or dropped off.
".....Some one told me I should replace the oxygen sensor do you think this will solve the problem?....."
Maybe, maybe not. Several things, or combination of things could be causing the problem, ignition timing being one of them. It's a twenty year old Jeep so why not break down and treat it to an engine diagnostic/analysis and get the full picture? Probably won't cost much more that the oxygen sensor would.
the water pump is an interesting point, i dont think so, but i might have mistakenly got the wrong pump. but there is still the fact that there is no evidence of leakage whatsoever. i've looked all over the engine compartment and i cant find a single trace of coolant, dried or not. i havent taken the radiator out yet to check between it and the air conditioning....thing...but that is probably going to happen next weekend after i take it to a mechanic...again
The top is khaki (my wife came up with the kiwi color even though it does look more kiwi than khaki) and the fender flares the same. You will enjoy the automatic as long as you get the 3:73 rear end and not the 3:07...but the Unlimited comes with the 3:73 standard. Congratulations on your decision and have fun...glad she likes it, too! We will have fun in Utah...we 4wheel into never never land and then hike and climb canyons photographing ancient Anazazi ruins. We don't do the Moab thing...too many people so we go farther south where most of the ruins are located. We've gotten to know the locals so many of the ruins we see will never be seen by many humans and never by tourists. We often hike 10 to 15 miles round trip and climb canyon walls of 800 feet...and we need that Jeep to get us to the starting point and back to bed. We sleep very well! We've already packed Katy Coyote and she is waiting to run! You guys are going to really have fun with your new Jeep experience....keep all of us posted on how it goes when you finally get it and send some pictures. We love looking at Jeeps...especially white and khaki colored ones.
I just stumbled across this website today and am currently in the market for a New Wrangler. I have always wanted a Jeep and pretty particular about what I want. I have never bought a new car so some of these may be stupid but I have a few questions I have
If you "order" a Jeep from the Dealer with your specific must haves can you still expect to pay about $200 over invoice or are you going to be MSRP?
I have priced my Jeep and it is basically a Sport but seems to be cheaper to add the items on the X platform, am I missing something?
I plan to eventually take it off road and will most likely want to upgrade the Rear Axle ... should I go ahead and add this to the Jeep or wait ??
I want a manual 4.0L I6, 3.73 Axle Ratio, Ecco Tire & Wheel Group, 7 Speakers, Air Conditioning, Full Metal Doors & the Tow Hooks.
1: The best deal possible should be on an ordered vehicle. A vehicle sitting on the lot has many associated costs and needs to be sold as soon as possible, which is why the dealer might initially try to push it. An ordered vehicle is an instant done deal for the dealer........it's sold before it arrives!
2: You can't get the D44 with the X model. Consider the Rocky Mountain Edition as well.
3: Buy it now at a fraction of the price of adding it later.
4: Good choices, though you might want to consider the auto for more serious off roading. Give some thought to the recently discussed D44 / 30" Wheel Group with Ravine Wheels.
>If you "order" a Jeep from the Dealer with your specific must haves can you still expect to pay about $200 over invoice or are you going to be MSRP?
No MSRP ever! See my post earlier today (Friday) about ordering a Jeep and doing so in a way that takes the negotiating out of it (i.e. via fax). But no matter how you buy: no MSRP!
Not sure how I feel about comparing in this particular chat what we all paid. Don't want anyone to feel like they got taken. More importantly, **I** don't want to feel like I got taken. But even with the special order, I worked out what I think was a pretty sweet deal. For SoCal people, special ordering a Jeep is like going to In N Out. Animal Style isn't on the menu; you just have to know about it.
Others will have more info for you, but like has been said, yes the dealers want to clear out inventory, but Jeep (DC) wants to sell Jeeps. Plus, an ordered Jeep does something good for the dealer involving volume I think. Irresepctive, there is **no** penalty for ordering. Sure they will try to sell you on one on the lot but don't let 'em (unless you like it).
The only thing they hung me up on was the incentives. The incentive deal will be the one in effect when the Jeep arrives, not when it's ordered. So they might run worst case scenario numbers until your Wrangler arrives. But back in 2003, when I bought my '04, the incentives stayed static, & kept getting extended.
As always, Edmunds can run numbers for you on MSRP, invoice, what people are paying on average, and something else I forget.
Evetnually someone here will point out the real virtue of speical ordering -- a personalized window sticker. I got mine framed.
A while back we were discussing front end vibrations. It happened again today, on the same stretch of road where it happpened the first time. Of course that makes it sound like the road is the problem, but I don't recall it happening in any other car I've driven through the same area. And the vibration seemed excessive for what looked like minor to moderate ripples. I mean if a small pot hole can give the Wrangler a seizure I have to wonder about that "trail rating." As in other cases, a brief pull over solved the problem. Personally, I think I've found the surface street equivalent of the Bermuda Triangle. :confuse:
If anyone's in L.A., it's south on Westwood b/w Pico and National. Far right lane.
We have been blessed lately with LOTS of new folks. I am posting this to welcome you fellow Jeepers and you prospective Jeepers who are new to this forum.
I'm not the "official greeter" or "official" anything around here, but I like to make new folks feel welcome.
If I have info to address your questions in your intial post, then I will respond, but if I can't help you with your question, then please let this post serve as your welcome to Edmunds Jeep Wrangler from me.
My only experience with short wheel base Jeeps is with my current Jeep, an 01 Sport. I most likely will not be able to help anyone with their questions about YJs or CJs.
If something kept going on after you had already passed the pothole, and you had to stop to make it quit, then it sounds like "Death Wobble" on a smaller scale. Maybe "Serious but Stable Condition Wobble?"
I think I remember some posting a while back about Death Wobble. Was that because of this problem of yours?
Something could have come loose in your suspension system, Mike. A loose trac bar can cause this, and I have heard that the trac bar needs to be REAL tight. Have also heard of it being fixed by a tire rotation.
Comments
So happy for ya, Mike!
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Oh, My Goodness! It was a super good deal at $850, and now it can be had for $670!
If you are getting a Sport, there is no reason that I know of NOT to get this AAS package! You may never need the extra strength of the Dana 44, but it sure ain't gonna hurt anything. You WILL enjoy those beautiful Ravine wheels, and the 3.73 gearing is nice for the present and allows the possibility of larger tires in the future.
OK, some folks really like ABS, and I'm not sure if that AAS package still allows you to get ABS. That Dana 44 rear might prevent you from getting ABS. For me, it was no big deal to skip the ABS on Thelma Jane.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
It is slow.
Gas mileage is non-existant.
There is no storage room (in the SWB version).
They are noisy.
So why would anybody want one?
One word: FUN!
They are without a doubt, one of the few vehicles that can consistently bring a smile to my face while even thinking about it (the others are supercars like McLaren's, Ferraris, etc).
Right now it is raining outside and my jeep is in the driveway with a RainGear cover on it, not being driven today. Knowing that Kermit is there just waiting for me to take him for a spin makes me smile. The fun of customizing it, the fun of working on it, the fun of driving it and using it for its intended purpose.... man, nothing is better. Throw in a beautiful day (okay, just ANY day) and you're set.
Follow your heart, life is too short to NOT do the things you want to do.
If I had my druthers, I'd be picking up a Patriot Blue Rubi Unlimited with a 6 speed manual. But since I have my 97 TJ, I'm content with that and having the time of my life driving it!
BTW, mac, you can take off that chrome grille cover on the Sahara Unlimited. Line-X it!
-Paul
Personally - I like the auto for off-roading (not as easy to spin your tires) and in-town traffic (don't have to shift as much). I prefer the manual for slow-n-go freeway traffic (put it in 2nd gear and you rarely have to use the brakes) and for snowy roads (let the engine provide the braking and speed control). I'm perfectly happy now with the auto in the Unlimited.
If you decide on an Unlimited, you won't have to worry about the axle - they come with the Dana 44 standard.
Mike - do you have a Jeep yet? Can't wait to read your post saying you picked it up!
ABS is available with the Tire & Wheel Group. It is a $600 option.
Here is what I got on my Sport:
Auto tranny (never owned a stick, not chancing it)
30" Tire & Wheel Group (no explanation needed here)
Security Group (better insurance rate)
Add-a-Trunk (for keeping honest people honest)
Dual Tops (stipulation of the GF)
Floor Mats (why not?)
Cruise Control (better gas mileage - lots o' highway driving)
Locking Fuel Cap (had mine stolen on my '95 Cherokee)
Smokers Group (extra power outlet and the ocassional butt)
ABS (like it - better insurance rate)
Side Steps (like the look)
Trac Lok Rear Differential (need I explain?)
MSRP came to $28,560. I am getting it for 1% below dealer invoice. I have to see if I still qualify for the DC incentives ($750 cash and $500 military)
I will probably never go offroad (unless backing into the garden counts...) with this one and i built it with "the road" in mind. But you never know......
Semper Fi,
Mike
That thread just won't die, huh?
For the rest of you, I posted in that "other" forum and asked how many people would still want their Jeeps if they knew they could never go off road again. The members of that particular website almost all go off road on a regular basis.
There would be no sense posting that question here, since very few of us here off road at all.
Of course, I expressed my opinion that a Jeep is a ton of fun, even ON the pavement, and that I would definitely still want my Jeep, even if I could never go off road again. (Let's hope it never comes to that, though, cause wheelin' is SO much fun!)
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I have side steps on the Unlimited and find that I use them all the time (probably because I'm so short). However, we removed them from the Sport when we started off-roading more - it is very easy to tear them off on the trail. I've off-roaded both Wranglers on easy trails with them on and not had a problem - it is when you start getting into the more extreme stuff, narrow rocky trails or where your approach/departure angles become an issue that they become a liability. You can always think about doing something like nerf bars sometime later if you find you want the added ground clearance. The side boards are easy to remove.
Are you saying you were able to get the Dana 44 AND ABS??? That is super, if that is the case, but I don't think it used to be that way.
You were smart to get set up for off road, even if you don't think you will be going off road. I made sure to get the Dana 44, and I had no plans to go off road. I just figured that if a heavier axle was available, why not get it?
Well, I'm SO glad that I got that Dana 44 and that I got the 3.73 gearing! They are both important to what I do with my Jeep now.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
rebates now and wondering what's going to happen in the next month or two.
right now there is a 1000 back for financing 500 veteran and 750 = ...2250
ain't bad...but i really want solar yellow.....My thinking is that if it's a 2005..the rebates will stay the same...if it's a 2006...probably just a military rebate.
Thanks for the input!!...by the way..where did you hear this at?
thanks,
Lew
Today in the mail.. I got my Title!! Soo TAZZ is ALL mine, doesnt belong to Chrysler Finacial.. Now time to start adding on to TAZZ. Starting with bigger tires. Already started my Piggy Bank fund.
Still love that jeep from the 1st day I drove it home!
Keep Jeepin
Bama
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Unless you have a fully equipped workshop and can get the required parts cheaply, it's much easier and cheaper to sell your SE and buy a Wrangler with an I6.
No word from the dealer today, crossed my fingers for tomorrow.......
Semper Fi,
Mike
Is it to be a 2005 or 2006? Hate to pass up the rebates on the 2005 but I'm willing to wait for the yellow.
Lew
Next thing you know everyone will be washing bugs off their front grills with paper towels! We'll all be picking up the Tomster's habits and enthusiasm!
tidester, host
I am brand new to this forum, so hi everyone. I have been following the posts for a while. I am going to buy a wrangler in the next few weeks, and my biggest questions are:
What dealer packages / options do you consider unnecessary? Does the add-a-trunk work?
Is the 6 cyl worth it? Most of my driving will be in congested big city traffic, with weekend getaways to the mountains. Not necessarily strict off-roading. My understanding is the power of the wrangler 6 cyl translates to increased low-end torque, rather than speediness. Do people feel that the 4cyl is adequate in the situation I described?
If I get the wimpier axles, can I still off-road (realistically only lightly) reasonably well or will I splinter in 2 out in the middle of moose country? Same question, accept now for the 30 inch tires. Will I have the option of putting 30 inch wheels on after market without a lift or modifications?
How do New Englanders feel about top options? This will be my only vehicle, which I will use year round, mostly for fun, since I do not need to commute. Ideally, I would like to get both a hard and soft top. Is the dealer package the best way to achieve this, or is after market better?
Is the standard radio loud enough to hear on highways at cruising speed with soft top, or is the upgrade more reasonable?
Is AC necessary? Does it work well with a soft-top?
I would really like to spend less than $20,000 total, if possible. Any suggestions/experiences regarding what would be the best combo for a "bargain" new hybrid city/mountain 2-person (me & hubby) wrangler would be super appreciated. My green side feels a bit guilty about fuel efficiency. I don't currently have a car, so the more info I have when heading to the dealership, the better.
Mindy
I'm installing a radio in a 1997 Jeep Wrangler. I purchased the vehicle recently and it didn't have any radio installed. Unfortunately the manuals are gone too. Does anyone know which fuse I need to check? I'm not sure one was ever put into the fuse box at the manufacturer.
If anyone has a picture of the fuse box diagram/schematic from a Wrangler Owner's Manual that would probably answer my question too.
THANKS!
I do a lot of city driving and freeway (expressway) driving, so the 4 cyl was never an option for me. I did test a 4 cyl with manual transmission. Driving stick gets a little more out of it.
I have the add a trunk. Enh. I would still buy it again, but given its size they should really call it Add-a-Glove Box. And I installed a bag on the rear door, which when full is hard to close against the trunk. Still, there are times when I'm glad it's there, to throw valuabes in. And it's easily removed.
Axles and tires I can't speak to.
As a former New Englander, yeah, you might need the dual top or hard top. I will say the air and heat work very well in the soft top. And a/c will be invaluable in a muggy New England August.
I ponied up for the 7 speaker subwoofer package. Have nothing to compare it too, but the wind noise when the top's down (and the road noise with the top up) made that an easy choice. A lot of people say you can do better and cheaper in after market sound systems, but I didn't want to take the time. I wanted the Jeep ready to go when I picked her up.
Sounds like maybe the X package might be good for you. The basest 6 cyl model they have, with a few bells and whistles. An affordable compromise b/w the 4 cyl SE and the 6 cyl Sport.
Start with a stripped Jeep on paper, then go through the list and see what you need vs. want. Sometimes the "needs" are part of packages that get you "wants" too. And you never have to settle for what's on the lot. Many people here, me included, special ordered Jeeps and got exactly what we wanted.
My attitude, and it's not for everyone, is when you're talking about $20,000, bettter to spend an extra grand and make the whole investment worth it, than try to save a few bucks and not enjoy what you did get. If you get out for 19 grand, but never really like the vehicle, then you've wasted 19 grand. Also, lump sums sound daunting, but when you factor option prices into monthly payments over a five year loan, sometimes we're just talking tens of dollars per month. But I have the luxury of that kind of thinking. No kids, no responsibilities, etc.
Walking into a dealership is never a good experience. I adopted a method from The Motley Fool, to fax fleet managers a description of the Jeep I wanted, and a deadline to make me an offer. 2 out of 10 responded, but they didn't know that. And one came back with a really attractive offer. Not once did I have to haggle with anyone.
Finally, there was a recent discussion here 2-3 weeks ago about Jeeps and the environment. My take is that cars are cars, and everything else is splitting hairs / variations on a theme until the next technological leap. (BTW, Happy Earth Day everyone!)
Others will chime in as well. Good luck.
-Mike
Hi, Mindy! Welcome to the board.
To answer your question above, the 4.0L I-6 is what you need for the weekends in the mountains. The four banger would do the job in town, but not on the highway. As far as off roading, the four banger does just as well as the six. When you are in the lower gears, as in town or on the trails, the four banger is fine.l It's out on the highway that the four comes up way short, especially in hilly or mountainous terrain.
If I get the wimpier axles, can I still off-road (realistically only lightly) reasonably well or will I splinter in 2 out in the middle of moose country? Same question, accept now for the 30 inch tires. Will I have the option of putting 30 inch wheels on after market without a lift or modifications?
You probably don't need the Dana 44 for the type of off roading you would be doing, but it sure will not HURT anything, and you really do want to get the 3.73 gearing that comes with the 30" wheel and tire package. A few posts up the screen, you will see a discussion about the AAS package. It's an unbelievable bargain at $670! You get the 30" tires, the gorgeous Ravine wheels, gas shocks, and the Dana 44 heavy dury rear axle. There may be a way to get the 3.73 gearing without the 30" tires... not sure.
Mindy, best thing you can do is read a BUNCH of the posts in here. Reading these may bring some issues to light that you would not have thought to ask about.
We love to talk Jeep around here, so ask all the questions you want.
To get your best deal, put things in terms of invoice. Call a bunch of dealers and ask the simple question, "For how much in relation to invoice will you sell me a new Jeep?" This way the deals you get on differently equipped Jeeps can be directly compared. Obviously, a Jeep with more options will cost more, but you would expect that to be true. You can STILL compare how much that Jeep is being offered for vs. invoice. Since you don't have a trade in, it will be REALLY easy for you to get the best possible deal.
Maybe my little website about my buying experisnce would be useful to you.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~tsjay51/thelma.html
Keep us posted as you do your Jeep shopping. Good luck.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
For mild trail riding and offroading the lighter D35 will work fine for you. It comes in to play when you do things like rocks or are in a situation when the tires are stuck and you apply torque. The D35 can handle the 30" tires (I have them on my SE right now). If you want to go up to 33" and larger, the D44 would probably be a better choice for you. With those axles you also need to consider gearing. 3.73 gearing or lower (meaning higher number, like 4.11) will handle larger tires better, at the expense of RPM's and mileage.
I'd go dual top up in the northeast. Cheapest way to do it from the get-go. You also need to consider full vs half height doors. Hard top comes with full doors usually, but you can add the half doors for when you have the soft top (or go w/o doors entirely).
AC will work fine with a soft top, but in NE, do you really need it? Better to have it and not need it though, than to to not have it and really need it (like for a road trip to a warmer clime).
Aftermarket wheels will give you better (more) backspacing, making the tires/wheels stick out a bit more from the Jeep. This will give you stability and the ability to run larger tires down the road (no pun intended) should you decide to go bigger. Larger tires mean a lift also (if over 31") but that is for later.
My stock stereo was pathetic with only 2 speakers and no CD. I went aftermarket. If you want factory, go with the 7 speaker option.
Either way, realize that security is important in a Jeep. I have a tuffy console for securing my subwoofer and a few electronics I sometimes carry. NEVER lock a soft top door, it just begs to get sliced if somebody wants in. Never keep valuables in it overnight or for any length of time.
If you DO opt for a 4cyl, go with a manual. You will probably find the 4cyl inadequate for driving up into mountains on a highway, but it is nice for flat highway and in-town cruising. I lived in Cali and lived at 4200 ft. Work was at 2000 ft. Driving the TJ up that grade on a windy day... goodbye 5th, goodbye 4th, hello 3rd. I'd go with a 6 cyl.
Options there:
X - basic 6 cyl with D35 rear, D30 front axles
Sport - 6 cyl with a few more goodies standard, D44 is an option
Rubicon - top of the line
You CAN get an X model with a D44 if you want. It is in the Rocky Mountain Edition. Nice little package...
- 7 Speakers with Subwoofer and Tweeters
- Cloth High-Back Bucket Seats
- Fog Lamps
- Heavy Duty Dana 44/226mm Rear Axle
- High-Pressure Gas-Charged Shock Absorbers
- Instrument Panel with Black Bezel
- Premium Fender Flares
- Rocky Mountain Edition Badge
- 30" Tire & Wheel Group
- 15" x 8.0" "Ravine" Aluminum Wheels
-- 3.73 Axle Ratio
-- 30X9.50R15LTB Wrangler OWL A/T Tires
With these Jeeps and the mild trail running you sound like you want to do, armor may not be a big deal, but if you get into severe trails with trees, rocks, and such, gas skids, steering box skids, rocker protection (under the doors) and a winch are something you might want to consider. You may not want it now, but you may find down the road, like Tom did, that offroading is fun and the jeep can do a LOT of cool stuff. But you want to protect it so you can get home!
Good luck and ask any questions you want!
-Paul
To answer a couple of your questions:
1. I don't like the add-a-trunk. I don't think it adds all that much security, it's small and because I was often hauling a Golden Retriever in the back to hiking trails, it would have been very much in the way. I ended up taking the back seat out of the Sport several years ago, and use it now for a saddle rack under my stairs. That said, I live in a pretty safe neighborhood and never leave anything in the soft top Jeep overnight.
2. The 6 cylinder will be worth it if you spend any time on the highway. Wranglers are not very quiet vehicles to begin with and then add in the staining of a smaller engine - you are definitely better off with the 6. Besides, there isn't very much difference in the mpg ratings between the 2.
3. Until you get into some more technical off-roading, the lighter axle is fine. If you can get the Dana 44, do it. But if it comes down to getting the D35 or not getting a Jeep, then get the Jeep. If you get smaller tires, you can always add the 30" wheels later - there will be enough room no matter which axle or body style you have. As others have mentioned, you might have issues with the gearing if you get the 3.07 gears and go with bigger tires later, but you won't need a lift. There are really 2 reasons to get the 30" tires - first is for additional ground clearance (do you need it for where you will be going?) and the second for looks.
4. Tops - if you have a garage then going for the dual tops makes sense. If you think you might want both tops, also go that route - it is cheaper to get the dual top option than to go aftermarket (well, today in the age of ebay it may no longer be, but it sure was back in '98 when I bought the Sport). I don't have a garage and so never considered the dual top option - I have no place to store the hard top, and no easy way to get it off, either. Our soft top Unlimited got us easily through this winter. I missed the really big snow fall we had this year, so I don't know how the soft top would have held up to close to 2 foot of snow one evening. However, it did fine during the snow we had (say, 6 inches in a night) and the top doesn't make much difference when it comes to temperature - the hard top isn't insulated, so they offer about the same protection from the cold. The heater can handle temps down to 0 F easily.
5. I'm not the best one to answer your radio question - my soft top is an Unlimited and it has extra padding and sound insulation. It is quieter than my hardtop Sport. The Unlimited also has the 7 speaker option and I'm happy with it. I did change out the radio because I wanted the Alpine head that includes the XM tuner in it. The Sport has the '98 standard radio (only 2 speakers, no soundbar) and I can hear it easily if I turn it up (the quality isn't very good though). The sound pods are now standard, which are definitely better.
6. AC is necessary for any vehicle out here in SoCal. We haven't had any really hot weather since I got the soft top so I'm not sure how effective the AC will be (though it worked well the one time last year when it was in the 90s going across the Mojave desert). We've never had a problem in the hard top Sport, and it's a black vehicle, so I'm not anticipating any problems. Besides, you won't be using the AC if the top is down.
Regarding your top/interior color...you called it "kiwi" but I'm wondering if you meant "kahki". My 2005 Wrangler brochure only shows black and kahki as top/interior/fender color options. Again, just want to be sure I get it right because your Wrangler looks sweet! I wish you a good trip to Utah...sounds fun!
Will it be a 2005 or 2006 model?...may I ask where you heard this?
again ...thanks
Mike,
unless you are too busy driving around your new Jeep, did ya get it today? As someone who has waited as long as you, I need to live vicariously through others until mine gets here. Please, tell us.
I know..pathetic
Trew
on .....Seems lately that everytime I try to post it doesn't show up....so I try
reposting and then the next day all of them show up (go figure)...anyway
I hope your right about the yellow. thanks!
Lew
Steve, Host
now for the real question: i have to drive 30 minutes on the highway every day to get to work/school. when i get there, every time i have to stop (say at a stop sign or stop light) and i have to make a turn (from a stopped position) a clicking noise is heard, and felt. this same thing also happens when i'm coming to a stop and turning at the same time. It is very noticable and very disturbing. yet it only happens after i make the long drive. this is a problem because the mechanics that i take it to cannot reproduce the noise, and therefore dont know what is causing it. If anyone has any ideas i'd love to hear them
:sick:
TJ is to Canada, as Wrangler is to the USA (and most of the rest of the world).
If the weird noise only occurs after a thirty minute drive, why not take the scenic route to your mechanic. It's not reasonable to expect them to take a long drive in order to reproduce the noise, unless you want to pay the normal rate for their time.
Not being psychic I can't tell you, but if it was my Jeep I'd remove the door trim panel and have a look at the mechanism to see what had broken or dropped off.
Maybe, maybe not. Several things, or combination of things could be causing the problem, ignition timing being one of them. It's a twenty year old Jeep so why not break down and treat it to an engine diagnostic/analysis and get the full picture? Probably won't cost much more that the oxygen sensor would.
the water pump is an interesting point, i dont think so, but i might have mistakenly got the wrong pump. but there is still the fact that there is no evidence of leakage whatsoever. i've looked all over the engine compartment and i cant find a single trace of coolant, dried or not. i havent taken the radiator out yet to check between it and the air conditioning....thing...but that is probably going to happen next weekend after i take it to a mechanic...again
"low riders are for guys who cant get it up"
If you "order" a Jeep from the Dealer with your specific must haves can you still expect to pay about $200 over invoice or are you going to be MSRP?
I have priced my Jeep and it is basically a Sport but seems to be cheaper to add the items on the X platform, am I missing something?
I plan to eventually take it off road and will most likely want to upgrade the Rear Axle ... should I go ahead and add this to the Jeep or wait ??
I want a manual 4.0L I6, 3.73 Axle Ratio, Ecco Tire & Wheel Group, 7 Speakers, Air Conditioning, Full Metal Doors & the Tow Hooks.
Thanks so much for your input.
2: You can't get the D44 with the X model. Consider the Rocky Mountain Edition as well.
3: Buy it now at a fraction of the price of adding it later.
4: Good choices, though you might want to consider the auto for more serious off roading. Give some thought to the recently discussed D44 / 30" Wheel Group with Ravine Wheels.
No MSRP ever! See my post earlier today (Friday) about ordering a Jeep and doing so in a way that takes the negotiating out of it (i.e. via fax). But no matter how you buy: no MSRP!
Not sure how I feel about comparing in this particular chat what we all paid. Don't want anyone to feel like they got taken. More importantly, **I** don't want to feel like I got taken. But even with the special order, I worked out what I think was a pretty sweet deal. For SoCal people, special ordering a Jeep is like going to In N Out. Animal Style isn't on the menu; you just have to know about it.
Others will have more info for you, but like has been said, yes the dealers want to clear out inventory, but Jeep (DC) wants to sell Jeeps. Plus, an ordered Jeep does something good for the dealer involving volume I think. Irresepctive, there is **no** penalty for ordering. Sure they will try to sell you on one on the lot but don't let 'em (unless you like it).
The only thing they hung me up on was the incentives. The incentive deal will be the one in effect when the Jeep arrives, not when it's ordered. So they might run worst case scenario numbers until your Wrangler arrives. But back in 2003, when I bought my '04, the incentives stayed static, & kept getting extended.
As always, Edmunds can run numbers for you on MSRP, invoice, what people are paying on average, and something else I forget.
Evetnually someone here will point out the real virtue of speical ordering -- a personalized window sticker. I got mine framed.
Good luck,
Mike
P.S. Big Fan of Full Doors.
If anyone's in L.A., it's south on Westwood b/w Pico and National. Far right lane.
-Mike
I'm not the "official greeter" or "official" anything around here, but I like to make new folks feel welcome.
If I have info to address your questions in your intial post, then I will respond, but if I can't help you with your question, then please let this post serve as your welcome to Edmunds Jeep Wrangler from me.
My only experience with short wheel base Jeeps is with my current Jeep, an 01 Sport. I most likely will not be able to help anyone with their questions about YJs or CJs.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
If something kept going on after you had already passed the pothole, and you had to stop to make it quit, then it sounds like "Death Wobble" on a smaller scale. Maybe "Serious but Stable Condition Wobble?"
I think I remember some posting a while back about Death Wobble. Was that because of this problem of yours?
Something could have come loose in your suspension system, Mike. A loose trac bar can cause this, and I have heard that the trac bar needs to be REAL tight. Have also heard of it being fixed by a tire rotation.
Keep us posted on how this goes.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?