"Thanks for all of your info. I'm actually looking forward to doing a considerable amount of offroading in the future and do not want to be limited because I tried to save a few bucks. This vehicle will not be my daily driver but will be our RV tow vehicle."
M:
Based on the above, you MIGHT want to go with the Rubicon. You said you plan on doing a considerable amount of off roading, but you don't say how extreme you are going to get or what kind of terrain you will be traversing.
The 4:1 low range ratio of the Rubicon's transfer case vs. the 2.72:1 low range of non-Rubicon Wranglers makes for real good rock crawling. It gives you a VERY slow crawl speed, which is just what you want in some situations. This keeps you from having to feather the clutch and getting premature wear on it when you want to go real slow. Even at Turkey Bay I occasionally get into situations where that 4:1 would be nice, but there's just not that much rock crawling to be done at Turkey Bay. Still, in places like Buttpucker Gulch, it would be really nice to be able to creep along, barely moving at all without constantly having to be in and out with the clutch.
The axle gearing is a BIGGIE for off roading. You get 31" tires on a Rubi, but you could always put 31's on a Sport. The thing is, with a Sport, you would have either the dreaded 3.07 axle ratio, or the optional 3.73, neither of which are as good as the 4.10 axle ratio of the Rubicons. STAY AWAY FROM THE 3.07 AXLE RATIO WHICHEVER MODEL YOU GET!
You get Dana 44's front and back with the Rubicons, and this is overkill for most folks. The Dana 44 in the back is not overkill, but having one up front is more than most of us require. It doesn't HURT anything, but it probably just isn't all that necessary for most of us.
One of the nicest things about the Rubi is that they have selectable lockers front and back. The rear differential is a limited slip until the locker is actuated, and then it goes into a fully locked mode. SWEET! Locked differentials can have some bad street manners, so being able to turn them off for street use is a real nice feature.
You couldn't even come close to buying a Sport and then putting all the goodies on it to bring it up to the Rubicon level for the same total expenditure as if you had bought the Rubicon to start with.
That I would prefer to keep my Thelma Jane rather than trade for a new Rubicon is a testimony to the satisfaction, joy, and emotional attachment that are part of Jeep ownership. This is especially true in light of my old ways, when trading vehicles every few months was the norm for me. No previous vehicle excited me for longer than six months. I was always ready to get something else after a few months. But, that was before I found my Thelma Jane.
My wife wants it to be "a little cooler" so we're thinking about mid to late September. I'm sure we would do the cabin thing. Do they cabins on the lake?
Another reason to be attached to Thelma Jane is all the mods you've done! It take a lot of time to get a Jeep just right. :shades:
Wranglers Camp has crude cabins, but there is no view of the lake. Wranglers Camp is kind of in the middle of the peninsula between the two lakes.
If you want to "splurge" just a little bit, I know the Mrs. would love to stay at either Kenlake State Resort Park or at Barkley Lodge State Resort Park. Kenlake would be closer to Turkey Bay. It's just on the opposite side of Ky Lake from Turkey Bay.
I have never stayed at Kenlake, but Barkley is in a beautiful setting with a view of a bay on Barkley Lake. There is a very nice lodge to stay in, and the smorgasbord restaurant is FABULOUS. There is always a nice variety of food, and it is ALL GOOD. I have heard that Kenlake is equally as nice and that the food is also very good there.
There are motels in the immediate area as well.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S.
Check out this website. It has links to lots of different things, including lodging.
mtngal has it right. I didn't have to think too hard on this one, even though I really wanted the new 6-speed for low-rpm highway travel, I had to get the auto. I live in KC Missouri, where their response to being named "worst roads in the nation" was to disable two major bridges across our river, and cut all the other loops around and through the city down to at least one lane. All at once. For the entire summer. And then run radio PR commercials about how great the improvements will be by next year. I have a 15 mile drive that now takes 45 minutes. At least I have an auto and air. I hate having to make these compromises, but it's my only daily driver. I'd also say get the Rubi if you can afford it and are at all conflicted. I considered buying a more basic TJ many times to save some pennies, but I knew this time I would keep it long past it's payoff date, and I didn't want to wish I'd bought more stuff later. I got just the hard top option, and now find myself perusing Bestop all the time to get a summer soft top...
Speaking of soft tops, I'm seeing a bunch of stuff about the Bestop sail cloth top. Supposedly very quiet. Do they make this for an LJ? Does anyone have one?
Have been looking for covers for the Hella fog lights which came as OEM on my '05 Unlimited but I cannot find what model of light they are anywhere. On the mopar site, they only have covers for the aftermarket fog lights they sell not for OEM 05 jeep lights. I have contacted Quadratec, 4wd, jcwhitney and others all to no avail. Does anyone know what model of Hella lights these are so I can get grilles/stone guards for them?
I believe the LJ soft top is made from the same material as sail cloth.
right now,, there are no aftermarket Hard or Soft Tops available for Unlimiteds. you can buy a bikini or safari top from Quadratech or any of a number of other catalogs.
you can buy OEM tops on EBAY that someone else has taken off and decided they didn't want. or you can buy from the dealer, ( expensive )
I have both a HT and ST, the soft top is relatively quite,, but I prefer no top, no doors and its LOUD when running 70 on the hwy.
The employee discount is not as large as one would expect. On an unlimited wrangler I was quoted $600 below invoice. As I was ready to walk out the salesman checked with his manager. "EP is the lowest we go" said the man.
Sorry if this is too simplistic a question not necessarily on target, but was unsure where to turn for a honest opinion. I need some help on Wranglers in general. My wife wants a fun, wind-in-the-hair vehicle for hauling dogs and stuff to the lake on weekends, and for general use in the city. She has mentioned an old Scout that she loved years ago and more recently, a Defender. I'd like something safe and dependable and was wondering if jeep owners think the longer wheelbase Wranglers would fit the bill. We won't be doing much off roading, and I think she'd like a vehicle that would offer security for daily use as well. Looking at your threads, what thoughts might you offer. Thanks in advance and again I apologize for not completely following the topic.
With the employee price you are way under invoice (so get the 4" lift and 33" tires). Print that sheet up and take it back to that dealer then I would find another. Also make sure you are getting the $500 rebate also.
Employee discount pricing is effectively a manufacturers discount and doesn't come off the dealers bottom line, so negotiate the best deal you can.
I will have to disagree. Employee pricing is bottom line (unless their are rebates, $500 right now on wranglers.) The only thing you will be negotiating is the trade (if you dont have one great.) In actuality the dealer is taking a loss on the employee pricing then the manufactuers (gm, ford, dcx) compensates the stealership after the financing.
..........In actuality the dealer is taking a loss on the employee pricing then the manufactuers (gm, ford, dcx) compensates the stealership after the financing.
You appear to be arguing semantics here. If the dealer is reimbursed by the manufacturer (which is correct on a genuine employee sale), then the dealer suffers no loss to his bottom line.
The dealer may (but not must) negotiate on any or all parts of the deal, including sale price, trade in value, and financing. The final price will depend on both the customers negotiating skills and the policies of the dealership.
I note that you refer to dealerships as 'stealerships', and imply that discounts may not be given unless asked for. My experience has been that an auto dealer is much like a furniture store, electronics store, jewelry store, clothing store, et al. They are all in business to make as much profit as possible, but will negotiate the final price without much prodding. I believe that most are honest and ethical, something that's not at odds with making a profit IMHO, but I can't deny that a small number of dishonest and unethical dealerships exist, just as they do in those other businesses.
Have you been traumatized by a vehicle purchasing experience in the past? If so you have my sympathies.
Have you been traumatized by a vehicle purchasing experience in the past? If so you have my sympathies.
*lol*
I always try to negoiate a fair deal for me and the dealership. They need to make money and I'm willing for them to make a slight profit from me for the service they provide. However, what I do get irked about is the warranty run-around. On our Grand Cherokee I pointed out that 3 out of 4 shocks were weeping fluid. They said it was normal. I said, "so the abnormal shock is the one that isn't leaking fluid?" However, I know that what that really comes down to is Chrysler not being willing to reimburse them for the shocks.
Be sure you get into the right forum before you post.
There is an old "Jeep Owners Meet the Members" forum, but that is not what you want. The new one says "Jeep Wrangler Owners: Wave and Meet." That's the one you want.
I'm new to the SUV forums, and I had a few questions about offroading in general and was wondering if some of you offroading enthusiasts could explain things to me.
What are transfer cases, low range gearing and independent rear suspensions?
Is there an advantage of using a manual instead of an automatic when offroading?
OK, I need help. I have taken the doors off my Wrangler but now the interior lights are on and if I turn on the accessories, I hear BEEP...BEEP...BEEP....BEEP......
I have pulled the 10 amp fuse from slot 10A in the fuse box, but then I loose all of my accessories,,,,including my radio. (Unacceptable!)
So...Can anyone give me a hand here? Is there something I am missing?
.............the dealer profits in the area of $250 on a vehicle.
Really.............I knew it was a relatively small amount but didn't realize it was as little as that. Still, new vehicle sales give the enterprise credibility, but the money gets made in finance, servicing, and the sale of pre owned vehicles.
I'm trying to think of any other item that costs as much as a Jeep (say $25000), on which the vendor will only profit by 1%. Personally, I don't begrudge the dealer that sort of a mark up.
The profit is $250 on a vehicle that sells for what amount of money in relation to invoice? Are you saying that even at the employee price, the dealer still makes $250? (Not that $250 is very much.)
I have always heard that a dealer can sell at invoice, still make 3% profit, and that this 3% is called hold back. Is that correct?
What are transfer cases, low range gearing and independent rear suspensions?
Ok, in order, a transfer case is a separate transmission with one input and two outputs, one to drive the rear axle and the other to drive the front. So, the drive comes from the engine to the main transmission, where it is transferred to the front and rear axles. Hence, a transfer case.
The transfer case also normally contains a second set of gears knows as 'low range'. You know how when moving off in first gear the vehicle is driven with much more 'grunt' than if you tried to move off in second or third? Well, low range effectively lowers all the gears so that fourth becomes like first, and first is really low. So, in low range first you can drive at very slow speeds with fairly high rpm and lots of 'grunt' or torque.
Independent rear suspension is what it says, each wheel is independently suspended and can therefore travel up and down independent of the other. Wranglers have a solid or rigid rear axle, which is strong and affords good ground clearance, but when one wheel goes up the other goes down. There are pros and cons to both types, with most Jeepers being strong proponents of the rigid axle. I was too until I recently had my eyes opened!
I've finally decided to join the forum after having read numerous posts that have been really helpful in deciding to buy my first Jeep. I went ahead and put in the order for my '05 Unlimited Rubicon on 3/13. After almost 17 WEEKS of waiting (apparently there was some problem with the Sirius Satellite Radio I ordered) I got the call this afternoon that it was finally in and I'll be picking it up this Saturday. So thanks to you all for all the helpful information.
On the Cherokee list I was told to ask my question to "tsjay"... so here goes: I just bought a '98 Cherokee 4x4, and I would like to get a copy of the window sticker. "mullins87" on the Cherokee list said you would have that info. I am planning to contact the dealership where the car was purchased new... but it is in another town and I have not had a chance to do that yet. I think dealerships here in Texas keep paperwork for several years... hope they have mine on file.
I have a business need for the cigar lighter socket to be powered when the ignition is off. Is there a reasonably easy way of changing the lighter circuit to be on at all times for my 2002 Wrangler?
Jim (mullins87) must have been talking about a factory build sheet. I don't know how to get a copy of the window sticker.
The factory build sheet gives much more detail about the vehicle than does the window sticker.
Assuming what you really want is the factory build sheet, go to jeep.com and find your way to 'contact Jeep." A form should come up where you can state the purpose of your inquiry and give you email address. Tell them you are requesting the factory build sheet. They will want the last eight characters of your VIN.
If you make the request during regular business hours, they may email your build sheet within half an hour. I have seen it happen that fast, anyway.
Good luck, and let us know if there is anything else we can help ya with.
I had the same problem. I took mine to the dealer and they made it happen. They told me there is an unswitched fuse holder on the fuse block. They moved the cigar lighter to it and put in a fuse. Sounds simple, but I did not do it, they did. My Wrangler is a 2000.
Yes, it's not too hard. The easiest way is to connect the cigar lighter to the extra 'always on' power feed tucked up into the loom behind the glovebox. There should be two, one 'always on' and one 'switched', one blue and one brown, both labeled.
If you can't find them, or they're not there (sometimes happens!), then you can pick up a supply from a spare fuse in the fuse box behind the glove box. Failing that, use one of the live studs in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood and fit an inline fuse as close to the PDC as possible.
Finally, make sure the wire you disconnected from the cigar lighter can't short out on anything. If you don't feel comfortable with any of the above it'll be an easy, and therefore inexpensive, job for an auto electrician to do for you.
I have a 2000 jeep wrangler 4.0L engine. It stopped running setting codes for #2, #5 misfire. The manual said to check the crankshaft sensor for 200+ or - 75 ohms. Mine has 4.5 meg ohms. I bought a new sensor only to find out it read exactly the same. Heres the kicker. I checked the coil rail, OK! I checked the plug coming into the rail between terminal #2 and each of the other three terminals with a test light. While cranking the engine, two of the three make the light flash, the third never turns the light out indicating the ground circuit is not being interrupted. Does this mean the PCM is bad? The Haynes manual obviously was wrong on a hundred dollar part.Any ideas?
I don't have a clue about all the stuff you are talking about, but wait for good old Mac24. I'm sure he will have some good info for ya. He is our technical guru around here.
Is there an advantage to using a manual instead of an automatic when offroading?
In virtually all offroad situations except very steep descents, the auto is superior, especially rockcrawling. On those descents the auto won't give you as much engine compression braking as a manual will. In other situations you can sometimes feel the need for three legs (one for each pedal ).
However, as with highway use, it's also a highly personal decision. There really is no wrong choice.
First, I really urge anyone doing more than basic maintenance to get the FSM. It's about $100 in print or it can be accessed online for $25 at AllDataDiy.
In regard to the CPS, could you have been confusing the Crankshaft Position Sensor with the Camshaft Position Sensor? Although primarily used for injector timing, it's also used in conjunction with the Crankshaft Position Sensor to confirm ignition timing.
Although the PCM could be at fault, it's really the last thing to consider.
Reply to:...Sorry if this is too simplistic a question not necessarily on target, but was unsure where to turn for a honest opinion. I need some help on Wranglers in general...
Sounds like about the only choice on the market. I've seen people take the doors off of Toyotas and Cherokees, but it can get kinda strange... :P
This Unlimited (LJ) is my third Jeep, and second Wrangler. It's much more liveable in town with the extra length, and if your wife was cool enough to have driven something like a Defender or Scout and enjoyed it, the LJ should fit the bill.
However, you should be aware of a couple of things. The ride is still not so great. Land Rovers have amazing pavement ride for their capability, Wranglers not-so-much. It's a compromise most of us owners have made in order to have the off-road ability, which you might not use.
Second, the engine can be a little "rev-happy", especially with the auto, when trying to keep up with traffic. At least I find it so. And the 4.0 is a little loud at anything above 2500 rpm. Acceleration with the 3.73 standard gears on the LJ is great, however. You can dust the average sedan quickly when they're tailgaiting. (Why do people tailgate Jeeps so much, dang-it?!? Does the spare just hypnotise them?)
In the plus column, if you keep it in decent condition, Wranglers have an insane resale value. I almost MADE money when I sold my 89 over it's purchase price.
I only say these things to make sure you're going to be happy, as a Wrangler in it's current version is still fairly specialized for slow-driving in the dirt. I've done 6+ hours on the highway, and it just is not as comfortable as something like a closed-cab pickup or larger SUV. In fact, I also disagree with the comment made that it would be less likely to roll (no offense to poster) because even though it's longer, it's track is no wider. And, unless you're climbing rocks, most rollovers happen to the side. I would say the vehicle is perfectly safe if driven with respect, and quite reliable if treated with a little more care than the average Japanese suv would need.
All that being said, if you do buy one, you owe it to yourself to go on a "mentored" trail run like a Jamboree at least once. You will be amazed at what it will do and where it will go.
I have a question about something I've never seen, but am wondering if it exists.
I'll be in the market for a new 'car' soon and have started looking around. I was thinking something for off-roading (eventually), so I'm looking at a number of SUVs including a Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. There are a few reasons that make it "less practical" than some other vehicles, but I'm keeping it in the hunt anyway. It'll be my daily driver for awhile, so not too many mods, but I have a question about the back seats. I have some kids that will have to sit back there. My wife would feel better if the back seats had head rests. I've never seen a Wrangler with rear seat head rests.
Do any of you know if there are 3rd party rear seat head rests available for the Wrangler? :confuse:
Thanks for the prompt help. With the glove box removed, I can see no extra wires. I don't see much of anything but the face of the fuse block. Is the idea to remove the screws holding the fuse block and get to its back where the cigar lighter wire can be moved from #19 to another, unused fuse?
Comments
M:
Based on the above, you MIGHT want to go with the Rubicon. You said you plan on doing a considerable amount of off roading, but you don't say how extreme you are going to get or what kind of terrain you will be traversing.
The 4:1 low range ratio of the Rubicon's transfer case vs. the 2.72:1 low range of non-Rubicon Wranglers makes for real good rock crawling. It gives you a VERY slow crawl speed, which is just what you want in some situations. This keeps you from having to feather the clutch and getting premature wear on it when you want to go real slow. Even at Turkey Bay I occasionally get into situations where that 4:1 would be nice, but there's just not that much rock crawling to be done at Turkey Bay. Still, in places like Buttpucker Gulch, it would be really nice to be able to creep along, barely moving at all without constantly having to be in and out with the clutch.
The axle gearing is a BIGGIE for off roading. You get 31" tires on a Rubi, but you could always put 31's on a Sport. The thing is, with a Sport, you would have either the dreaded 3.07 axle ratio, or the optional 3.73, neither of which are as good as the 4.10 axle ratio of the Rubicons. STAY AWAY FROM THE 3.07 AXLE RATIO WHICHEVER MODEL YOU GET!
You get Dana 44's front and back with the Rubicons, and this is overkill for most folks. The Dana 44 in the back is not overkill, but having one up front is more than most of us require. It doesn't HURT anything, but it probably just isn't all that necessary for most of us.
One of the nicest things about the Rubi is that they have selectable lockers front and back. The rear differential is a limited slip until the locker is actuated, and then it goes into a fully locked mode. SWEET! Locked differentials can have some bad street manners, so being able to turn them off for street use is a real nice feature.
You couldn't even come close to buying a Sport and then putting all the goodies on it to bring it up to the Rubicon level for the same total expenditure as if you had bought the Rubicon to start with.
Keep us posted on your Jeep shopping! Good luck.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
You are right on the money.
That I would prefer to keep my Thelma Jane rather than trade for a new Rubicon is a testimony to the satisfaction, joy, and emotional attachment that are part of Jeep ownership. This is especially true in light of my old ways, when trading vehicles every few months was the norm for me. No previous vehicle excited me for longer than six months. I was always ready to get something else after a few months. But, that was before I found my Thelma Jane.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
My wife wants it to be "a little cooler" so we're thinking about mid to late September. I'm sure we would do the cabin thing. Do they cabins on the lake?
Another reason to be attached to Thelma Jane is all the mods you've done! It take a lot of time to get a Jeep just right. :shades:
Wranglers Camp has crude cabins, but there is no view of the lake. Wranglers Camp is kind of in the middle of the peninsula between the two lakes.
If you want to "splurge" just a little bit, I know the Mrs. would love to stay at either Kenlake State Resort Park or at Barkley Lodge State Resort Park. Kenlake would be closer to Turkey Bay. It's just on the opposite side of Ky Lake from Turkey Bay.
I have never stayed at Kenlake, but Barkley is in a beautiful setting with a view of a bay on Barkley Lake. There is a very nice lodge to stay in, and the smorgasbord restaurant is FABULOUS. There is always a nice variety of food, and it is ALL GOOD. I have heard that Kenlake is equally as nice and that the food is also very good there.
There are motels in the immediate area as well.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
P.S.
Check out this website. It has links to lots of different things, including lodging.
http://kentuckylake.com
I have a 15 mile drive that now takes 45 minutes. At least I have an auto and air. I hate having to make these compromises, but it's my only daily driver.
I'd also say get the Rubi if you can afford it and are at all conflicted. I considered buying a more basic TJ many times to save some pennies, but I knew this time I would keep it long past it's payoff date, and I didn't want to wish I'd bought more stuff later. I got just the hard top option, and now find myself perusing Bestop all the time to get a summer soft top...
Is the only LJ option the factory Sunrider?
Have been looking for covers for the Hella fog lights which came as OEM on my '05 Unlimited but I cannot find what model of light they are anywhere. On the mopar site, they only have covers for the aftermarket fog lights they sell not for OEM 05 jeep lights. I have contacted Quadratec, 4wd, jcwhitney and others all to no avail. Does anyone know what model of Hella lights these are so I can get grilles/stone guards for them?
Thanks!
J
right now,, there are no aftermarket Hard or Soft Tops available for Unlimiteds. you can buy a bikini or safari top from Quadratech or any of a number of other catalogs.
you can buy OEM tops on EBAY that someone else has taken off and decided they didn't want. or you can buy from the dealer, ( expensive )
I have both a HT and ST, the soft top is relatively quite,, but I prefer no top, no doors and its LOUD when running 70 on the hwy.
jeff
Jeep Wrangler Owners: *Wave* & Meet
Why don't you kick it off Tomster and give everyone an idea of things about themselves they may want to share.
Steve, Host
My only decision is yellow or black.
Any suggestions on a hood lock?
-Paul
She has mentioned an old Scout that she loved years ago and more recently, a Defender. I'd like something safe and dependable and was wondering if jeep owners think the longer wheelbase Wranglers would fit the bill. We won't be doing much off roading, and I think she'd like a vehicle that would offer security for daily use as well. Looking at your threads, what thoughts might you offer. Thanks in advance and again I apologize for not completely following the topic.
http://www-5.jeep.com/incentives/Startup.jam?Brand=Jeep&SalesMarket=U&language=en&ModelYea- - - r=&Model=
With the employee price you are way under invoice (so get the 4" lift and 33" tires). Print that sheet up and take it back to that dealer then I would find another. Also make sure you are getting the $500 rebate also.
I hate Stealerships :mad:
Safe: Yes, you have a roll cage and with the lwb (long wheel base) you are less likely to roll it.
Dependable: Yes, look how long jeep has been using this particular engine. You keep up on the maintance you can get 200,000 miles of that beauty.
Good luck and let us know what you decide.
Thanks to you and to all who were involved in creating the new discussion. True to form, Edmunds was very responsive in this matter.
Now, please, Jeep Buddies, let's take advantage of the new forum and post some information to help us get to know one another.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I will have to disagree. Employee pricing is bottom line (unless their are rebates, $500 right now on wranglers.) The only thing you will be negotiating is the trade (if you dont have one great.) In actuality the dealer is taking a loss on the employee pricing then the manufactuers (gm, ford, dcx) compensates the stealership after the financing.
-Paul
tidester, host
You appear to be arguing semantics here. If the dealer is reimbursed by the manufacturer (which is correct on a genuine employee sale), then the dealer suffers no loss to his bottom line.
The dealer may (but not must) negotiate on any or all parts of the deal, including sale price, trade in value, and financing. The final price will depend on both the customers negotiating skills and the policies of the dealership.
I note that you refer to dealerships as 'stealerships', and imply that discounts may not be given unless asked for. My experience has been that an auto dealer is much like a furniture store, electronics store, jewelry store, clothing store, et al. They are all in business to make as much profit as possible, but will negotiate the final price without much prodding. I believe that most are honest and ethical, something that's not at odds with making a profit IMHO, but I can't deny that a small number of dishonest and unethical dealerships exist, just as they do in those other businesses.
Have you been traumatized by a vehicle purchasing experience in the past? If so you have my sympathies.
*lol*
I always try to negoiate a fair deal for me and the dealership. They need to make money and I'm willing for them to make a slight profit from me for the service they provide. However, what I do get irked about is the warranty run-around. On our Grand Cherokee I pointed out that 3 out of 4 shocks were weeping fluid. They said it was normal. I said, "so the abnormal shock is the one that isn't leaking fluid?" However, I know that what that really comes down to is Chrysler not being willing to reimburse them for the shocks.
There is an old "Jeep Owners Meet the Members" forum, but that is not what you want. The new one says "Jeep Wrangler Owners: Wave and Meet." That's the one you want.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
As you can tell from his photo, Tidester had a big hand in it too. LOL.
Karen did all the real work though.
Steve, Host
What are transfer cases, low range gearing and independent rear suspensions?
Is there an advantage of using a manual instead of an automatic when offroading?
I have pulled the 10 amp fuse from slot 10A in the fuse box, but then I loose all of my accessories,,,,including my radio. (Unacceptable!)
So...Can anyone give me a hand here? Is there something I am missing?
Semper Fi
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Really.............I knew it was a relatively small amount but didn't realize it was as little as that. Still, new vehicle sales give the enterprise credibility, but the money gets made in finance, servicing, and the sale of pre owned vehicles.
I'm trying to think of any other item that costs as much as a Jeep (say $25000), on which the vendor will only profit by 1%. Personally, I don't begrudge the dealer that sort of a mark up.
The profit is $250 on a vehicle that sells for what amount of money in relation to invoice? Are you saying that even at the employee price, the dealer still makes $250? (Not that $250 is very much.)
I have always heard that a dealer can sell at invoice, still make 3% profit, and that this 3% is called hold back. Is that correct?
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Ok, in order, a transfer case is a separate transmission with one input and two outputs, one to drive the rear axle and the other to drive the front. So, the drive comes from the engine to the main transmission, where it is transferred to the front and rear axles. Hence, a transfer case.
The transfer case also normally contains a second set of gears knows as 'low range'. You know how when moving off in first gear the vehicle is driven with much more 'grunt' than if you tried to move off in second or third? Well, low range effectively lowers all the gears so that fourth becomes like first, and first is really low. So, in low range first you can drive at very slow speeds with fairly high rpm and lots of 'grunt' or torque.
Independent rear suspension is what it says, each wheel is independently suspended and can therefore travel up and down independent of the other. Wranglers have a solid or rigid rear axle, which is strong and affords good ground clearance, but when one wheel goes up the other goes down. There are pros and cons to both types, with most Jeepers being strong proponents of the rigid axle. I was too until I recently had my eyes opened!
Never too old to learn. :shades:
Thanks in advance,
Andy Anderson
Jim (mullins87) must have been talking about a factory build sheet. I don't know how to get a copy of the window sticker.
The factory build sheet gives much more detail about the vehicle than does the window sticker.
Assuming what you really want is the factory build sheet, go to jeep.com and find your way to 'contact Jeep." A form should come up where you can state the purpose of your inquiry and give you email address. Tell them you are requesting the factory build sheet. They will want the last eight characters of your VIN.
If you make the request during regular business hours, they may email your build sheet within half an hour. I have seen it happen that fast, anyway.
Good luck, and let us know if there is anything else we can help ya with.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Terry
If you can't find them, or they're not there (sometimes happens!), then you can pick up a supply from a spare fuse in the fuse box behind the glove box. Failing that, use one of the live studs in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) under the hood and fit an inline fuse as close to the PDC as possible.
Finally, make sure the wire you disconnected from the cigar lighter can't short out on anything. If you don't feel comfortable with any of the above it'll be an easy, and therefore inexpensive, job for an auto electrician to do for you.
WELCOME!
Congrats on that new Unlimited Rubi. I know you must be dying to pick it up.
Glad you posted, and I hope you will stick around.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I have one more question that maybe you can answer
Is there an advantage to using a manual instead of an automatic when offroading?
I don't have a clue about all the stuff you are talking about, but wait for good old Mac24. I'm sure he will have some good info for ya. He is our technical guru around here.
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
In virtually all offroad situations except very steep descents, the auto is superior, especially rockcrawling. On those descents the auto won't give you as much engine compression braking as a manual will. In other situations you can sometimes feel the need for three legs (one for each pedal
However, as with highway use, it's also a highly personal decision. There really is no wrong choice.
In regard to the CPS, could you have been confusing the Crankshaft Position Sensor with the Camshaft Position Sensor? Although primarily used for injector timing, it's also used in conjunction with the Crankshaft Position Sensor to confirm ignition timing.
Although the PCM could be at fault, it's really the last thing to consider.
Sounds like about the only choice on the market. I've seen people take the doors off of Toyotas and Cherokees, but it can get kinda strange... :P
This Unlimited (LJ) is my third Jeep, and second Wrangler. It's much more liveable in town with the extra length, and if your wife was cool enough to have driven something like a Defender or Scout and enjoyed it, the LJ should fit the bill.
However, you should be aware of a couple of things. The ride is still not so great. Land Rovers have amazing pavement ride for their capability, Wranglers not-so-much. It's a compromise most of us owners have made in order to have the off-road ability, which you might not use.
Second, the engine can be a little "rev-happy", especially with the auto, when trying to keep up with traffic. At least I find it so. And the 4.0 is a little loud at anything above 2500 rpm. Acceleration with the 3.73 standard gears on the LJ is great, however. You can dust the average sedan quickly when they're tailgaiting. (Why do people tailgate Jeeps so much, dang-it?!? Does the spare just hypnotise them?)
In the plus column, if you keep it in decent condition, Wranglers have an insane resale value. I almost MADE money when I sold my 89 over it's purchase price.
I only say these things to make sure you're going to be happy, as a Wrangler in it's current version is still fairly specialized for slow-driving in the dirt. I've done 6+ hours on the highway, and it just is not as comfortable as something like a closed-cab pickup or larger SUV. In fact, I also disagree with the comment made that it would be less likely to roll (no offense to poster) because even though it's longer, it's track is no wider. And, unless you're climbing rocks, most rollovers happen to the side. I would say the vehicle is perfectly safe if driven with respect, and quite reliable if treated with a little more care than the average Japanese suv would need.
All that being said, if you do buy one, you owe it to yourself to go on a "mentored" trail run like a Jamboree at least once. You will be amazed at what it will do and where it will go.
Come on, everyone, post some info to help others get to know you and your Jeep.
I'll even make it easy for ya...
KarenS, "Jeep Wrangler Owners: *Wave* & Meet" #, 7 Jul 2005 1:47 pm
Tomster
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
I have a question about something I've never seen, but am wondering if it exists.
I'll be in the market for a new 'car' soon and have started looking around. I was thinking something for off-roading (eventually), so I'm looking at a number of SUVs including a Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited. There are a few reasons that make it "less practical" than some other vehicles, but I'm keeping it in the hunt anyway.
Do any of you know if there are 3rd party rear seat head rests available for the Wrangler? :confuse:
TIA,
--Dan