Wow...have had my jeep for 3 years now and discovered this forum a few days ago....my eyes are literally bloodshot from reading almost non-stop. This is a great, informative place.
I live in the south...and it's hot...very hot.
Never thought I'd consider these, but does anyone use the beaded seat cushions? I've never sat in them, but some folks swear by them. Just wouldn't think they're comfortable!
Would appreciate anyone's opinion(s)/thoughts if you use these now, or have in the past.
Again...thanks for all the information I've learned the past several days!
Good to see you back here. After my incident at WITC, I've been more in lurk mode while I lick the wounds and tend to the injuries Kermit sustained.
Getting him close to being ready to wheel again, but still have work to do.
As for the sway links, you COULD go aftermarket and get stronger quick disconnects. You may never disconnect them, but they are a bit stronger and will give you the ease of removal in the event you do want to play on the trails some.
My Jeep didn't have a sway bar when I bought it but got one used for $10.00 and bought some of the JKS quicker disconnects. Been VERY happy with them.
Hey everybody, hope everyone's summer went well. I have just started college, so my summer is officially over... But anyway I have a question about a "whistling" sound coming from my clutch. I can switch in and out of gear perfectly fine, and there seems to be no physical problem.
The noise is silent when I have the clutch pedal pressed down. But as soon as it is let out completely, there is a "whistling" sound. My Jeep is an '06 model, so I didn't know if maybe it was due to maybe the wearing in of the car... any feedback would be appreciated b/c I would like to fix a potential problem before it gets worst...
I've used beaded seat cushions in the past for long-distance road trips (several thousand mile category), and would do so again. They do a good job at keeping your back dry, but may leave embedded bead marks on the underside of your legs, depending on what you're wearing and the length of the cushions themselves. For routine daily-driver use, I don't bother with 'em.
I would take a guess at the clutch thrust/release bearing. If it's always made the noise and doesn't get any worse I wouldn't worry. However, if it gets worse I'd get it fixed under warranty.
There's no rush though, as I've never heard of anyone being able to live with the noise long enough for the bearing to actually fail!
Thanks to you and everyone else for the advice and instructions. I cannot wait to have a garage again.
Keats. Good to hear from you. Yup, I kept the top. I remember that you recommended I keep it. It was a good move. Happy to hear that you had a good time in Maine. I picked up some tub rails (for lack of a better name) in black. Nice looking and functiional per loading stuff into the Jeep. They line the top of the tub rail and make it stand out when the top is down. Nice look. Go Easy
Tom, have fun planning for the 40th. Hope all is well. John
Thanks so much for your input. I'll probably get it fixed when I go home this weekend or as soon as I can, because with my top off, the noise is pretty annoying...
As I suspected, the sway bar links are not covered on my extended warranty. I bought new ones at Autozone. And got the pickle fork.
I don't understand. When you say I may have to beat it out, are you saying that when I take the nut off at the top of the link, I am going to have trouble getting the ball joint looking thing on the end of the link out? Any chance I can just tap on the stud and knock it out?
Also, can you tell me what size Torx wrench to get for the head of the bottom bolt.
.........are you saying that when I take the nut off at the top of the link, I am going to have trouble getting the ball joint looking thing on the end of the link out? Any chance I can just tap on the stud and knock it out?
Exactly. The 'stud' on top of the link isn't parallel sided like a regular bolt, but tapered in the area below the threads, just like a tie rod end. The hole in the end of the sway bar has a matching taper, which enables the two parts to engage very tightly. Hence the need for the 'pickle fork' which is hammered in between the sway bar and the link joint. The wedge shape of the tool forces the two to seperate. Tapping on the threaded end of the link joint won't work, though beating on it might. I think you'll need a Tx55 for the lower bolt, though it might be a Tx50. Easiest way to check is to drive your Jeep to the tool store and match it up!
Take it back to the dealership and have it addressed under warranty. Mine ('05) aligns fine and I have only had to push it into place once or twice and it offered no resistance. I suspect that using zip ties is going to make it difficult or impossible to put the top down and have it fold/lay properly.
Aaaahhh, I forgot about the taper. It is surprising how fast these things get away from you. I am a retired mechanical engineer, I used to design tapers in the early part of my career. I do have the pickle fork. I'm just looking for the easy way out. I need a couple of more wrenches. I will get around to doing this job in a day or two.
Best guess, anyone else one hour, me most of a day.
Best guess, anyone else one hour, me most of a day.
When your time is your own, spending a day getting it done in a relaxed and steady manner is far more satisfying than an hour's frantic struggle. At least, that's how I justify my pace of work these days.
Gill Blue, the creator of a Jeep website that I have hung out in a lot for the last few years, died yesterday evening at approximately 6:00 PM. He was taken from us by cancer.
Gill was a great friend, and some of you here knew him.
Hi. I'm still searching for the perfect Jeep to me, good condition and reasonable price. I found a nice '98 with the inline 6 cyl. engine and approx. 76K miles, however, it has automatic transmission and I wanted 5 speed. Some people say the automatic with the 6 cyl. is a very good match and even easier on off road or snow conditions. Any comments on pros and cons of the automatic ? :confuse:
Mac, you could have that carved in nice natural wood, about 1'x 3', make a few thousand, charge $50.00 and watch the money roll in. Nicely put and I fully understand. I am looking for a nice piece of wood now. Go Easy, John
Tom,I just read your post and I am sorry to hear of the loss of your friend. I spent time in the site as I am certain many others did. Take Care and my thoughts are with his family. John
i have a 1995 wrangler and i got a safari top for it ( i live in florida) problem is rain comes in around the doors ..i cant find a channel that would stop this from happening ...anyone have any ideas
"Still unbeatable in the dirt, much quieter cabin, spacious rear seats, good-size cargo bay, choice of hard and soft tops makes it a convertible you can live with, long list of high-tech audio options."
BTW Passenger side - disconnect bottom, pound out top, install new and reconnect bottom, 30 min. Drivers side - disconnect bottom, pound on top (pickle fork and top of bolt), pound lots more, disconnect bottom of passenger side, take out sway bar, pound drivers side lots more, put a little heat on it, pound out link, put sway bar back on, install driver side link, reconnect bottom of both sides, touch up paint damaged taking out sway bar 1 hour 30 min.
Hi everybody. I found a nice Jeep to purchase, however, the A/C is not working. Any ideas of the best case and worst case scenario $$$ to fix the air conditioning ? I really don't care about it but my wife wants it and she'll also drive it ocasionally. Any price range would help. Thanks
Best case, reconnect disconnected wire, $0.........worst case, compressor fails and distributes debris throughout the system requiring a new evaporator, condenser, dryer, piping etc., maybe around $2K.
"Chrysler said it has reduced prices on its 2007 Jeep Wrangler lineup, with the base Wrangler X starting at $18,765, including a $660 destination charge. Jeep's first four-door Wrangler Unlimited model starts at $20,410 for the two-wheel drive version and $22,410 for the four-wheel-drive version, including the destination charge."
Not only reduced pricing but increased specification. For instance, and this is taken straight from the link, the base model now comes with 16-inch steel wheels, a full-size spare tire, rear folding seats, antilock brakes and a six-speaker AM/FM/CD radio with MP3/auxiliary input.
I guess we'll have people complaing about having ABS forced on them now!
P.S. I'm old enough to remember them complaining about being forced to pay for seatbelts. :shades:
Hey Mac24, thanks for your tips and suggestions. I'm still looking for the Jeep and your opinion / suggestions are always great. Perhaps I'm being too picky in finding the car, but I'm still looking. This one I mentioned earlier is a great choice...I ran a carfax report and find out that the Jeep spent several years in a city in a coast city in South Carolina....therefore....it turned me away from it because of potencial rust problems. ... I'll let you know when I buy the Jeep.
My Jeep has spent half its 8-year old life in coastal towns on both coasts and the only rust I've noticed is on the aftermarket Smittybilt bars I installed. I've be more worried about a Jeep from a place where they salt the roads.
I have my 97 Wrangler. I have a JKS 1.25" BL and corner armor 3/16" thick. My filler neck is VERY VERY tight and I can't really attach it to the black filler neck cover on the side of the Wrangler.
I'm wondering if I can use the plastic funnel thing (the part that the gas cap attaches to) from a later Wrangler. They seem a bit longer and I only need something about 1/2 to 3/4" longer than I have now for everything to fit comfortably.
I know the fuel hoses for the filler neck are shorter on the newer Wranglers, so the filler funnel part is longer, but I'm not sure if the diameter of those funnels is the same between the 97's and later models.
I was looking to add a Hitch to my Jeep - then I noticed I could change out my rear bumper with an aftermarket and hitch for a few more dollars. I was wondering what are some good bumpers to look at - here are my requirments:
1. Needs to fit my '06 Unlimited 2. Want to eventually replace the front bumper 3. I want to be able to add a bike rack and cargo hauler via the hitch. 4 I may want to eventaully tow either jet ski or 4 wheelers - if I ever buy them 5. Right now we don't do a whole lot of tough off roading but down the road (as my 4 year old gets older) we will probably start doing more intense off roading (Can't wait). 6. Has to come in black.
I really don't know the answer to the actual question you asked, apart from "try it and see" which isn't what you want to hear.
However, if it were me I'd look at making a spacer to go between the filler (the part the gas cap fits to) and the back of the filler housing. The only question would be as to whether the cap could still be fitted to filler as it might now come up against the housing. If so, the central hole could be enlarged and the four filler to housing holes moved out a bit. The spacer would then have to be made a little larger in diameter so that the spacer could be secured to the back of the housing, and the filler secured to the back of the spacer (rather than just using longer screws as in the original configuration).
Finally, what to make the spacer out of? It needs to be dense, easily cut, and unaffected by gasoline. 'Starboard' comes to mind, readily available at marine stores but rather expensive. How about a white polyethylene cutting board, probably $5 at WalMart?
I guess I could try that. I had also thought about moving the hoses out a bit where they overlap the tank neck and the filler neck, but don't want to risk them coming off.
I was hoping you'd have information about the diameter of the hoses that the TJ's used from the filler neck to the tank neck. I don't think the FSM has that.
I'd suggest making sure that the receiver is a standard 2", and is integrated into the bumper rather than fitted below it.
There many to choose from (just use Google). I use Olympic's 57" Rock Bumper front and rear. Having a front mounted hitch receiver is very useful for maneuvering trailers, recovery, and mounting a bike carrier or cargo tray to.
These particular bumpers cost around $200 each and will fit an '06.
Keep in mind, most aftermarket bumpers will have the hitch, but not necessarily say they are rated for Class I, II, or III. I think the only one that says ANYTHING is the Warn. I personally don't care for the Warn as it is not boxed, like the Jeeperman, or others out there. Which means - it may not handle the bumps/bruises of offroading as well and has the same basic shape as the stock bumper.
That said about ratings, if I can use my hitch location as a recovery point to pull my 4000 or so pound Jeep outta the mud, I don't see why it couldn't handle towing. Just keep your Unlimited rated tow capacity in mind.
This is an awesome looking jeep. Are you running 33"s on the stock Canyon wheels?? I thought the stock wheel did not have the enough back spacing for clearing a 33" when in full articulation? What kind of lift is it?
Thanks. It's a bit bent up right now though. I flopped Kermit at Wheelin in the Country a few weeks ago.
Yes, those are 33's on the stock Canyon wheels. They have enough room for articulation because I have 4.25" of BS. 5.5" BS - 1.25" wheel spacers (Spidertrax). If I knew then what I know now, I would have not gotten the Canyons off eBay, but bought steel wheels with the right BS in the first place. BUT... since I DID buy the Canyons, I wanted to make em work.
My lift is an OME 2.5" HD lift that netted me 3.25". I also have a JKS 1.25" body lift and JKS 1" budget (spacer) lift.
Comments
I CAN'T BELIEVE IT HAS BEEN 39 YEARS SINCE MY HIGH SCHOOL GRADUATION!
We have hosts here who are older than you but I'd be in serious trouble if I named names ...!
tidester, host
I live in the south...and it's hot...very hot.
Never thought I'd consider these, but does anyone use the beaded seat cushions? I've never sat in them, but some folks swear by them. Just wouldn't think they're comfortable!
Would appreciate anyone's opinion(s)/thoughts if you use these now, or have in the past.
Again...thanks for all the information I've learned the past several days!
Jase
Getting him close to being ready to wheel again, but still have work to do.
As for the sway links, you COULD go aftermarket and get stronger quick disconnects. You may never disconnect them, but they are a bit stronger and will give you the ease of removal in the event you do want to play on the trails some.
My Jeep didn't have a sway bar when I bought it but got one used for $10.00 and bought some of the JKS quicker disconnects. Been VERY happy with them.
-Paul
The noise is silent when I have the clutch pedal pressed down. But as soon as it is let out completely, there is a "whistling" sound. My Jeep is an '06 model, so I didn't know if maybe it was due to maybe the wearing in of the car... any feedback would be appreciated b/c I would like to fix a potential problem before it gets worst...
There's no rush though, as I've never heard of anyone being able to live with the noise long enough for the bearing to actually fail!
Keats. Good to hear from you. Yup, I kept the top. I remember that you recommended I keep it. It was a good move. Happy to hear that you had a good time in Maine. I picked up some tub rails (for lack of a better name) in black. Nice looking and functiional per loading stuff into the Jeep. They line the top of the tub rail
and make it stand out when the top is down. Nice look. Go Easy
Tom, have fun planning for the 40th. Hope all is well. John
As I suspected, the sway bar links are not covered on my extended warranty. I bought new ones at Autozone. And got the pickle fork.
I don't understand. When you say I may have to beat it out, are you saying that when I take the nut off at the top of the link, I am going to have trouble getting the ball joint looking thing on the end of the link out? Any chance I can just tap on the stud and knock it out?
Also, can you tell me what size Torx wrench to get for the head of the bottom bolt.
I hope this is as easy as it looks.
Terry
Exactly. The 'stud' on top of the link isn't parallel sided like a regular bolt, but tapered in the area below the threads, just like a tie rod end. The hole in the end of the sway bar has a matching taper, which enables the two parts to engage very tightly. Hence the need for the 'pickle fork' which is hammered in between the sway bar and the link joint. The wedge shape of the tool forces the two to seperate. Tapping on the threaded end of the link joint won't work, though beating on it might. I think you'll need a Tx55 for the lower bolt, though it might be a Tx50. Easiest way to check is to drive your Jeep to the tool store and match it up!
Good luck.
Best guess, anyone else one hour, me most of a day.
Thanks,
Terry
When your time is your own, spending a day getting it done in a relaxed and steady manner is far more satisfying than an hour's frantic struggle. At least, that's how I justify my pace of work these days.
I know Tom is taking it kinda hard and him and the Blue family could really use your thoughts and prayers.
-Paul
Gill was a great friend, and some of you here knew him.
Rest in peace, my friend. You will be missed.
Tom
If you really had your heart set on a five speed, then it would most likely be best to wait until the right five speed comes along.
The auto has some advantages in certain off road situations. The folks that do a lot of rock crawling seem to prefer the automatic tranny.
My preference, like yours, is the five speed. I like the control I have going down steep inclines, when I can take full advantage of engine braking.
I see a lot of automatics out on the trails, so you can "wheel" with either an automatic or a manual.
Good luck.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Full Test: 2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sahara
Got it done last Friday. Thanks for the help.
BTW Passenger side - disconnect bottom, pound out top, install new and reconnect bottom, 30 min.
Drivers side - disconnect bottom, pound on top (pickle fork and top of bolt), pound lots more, disconnect bottom of passenger side, take out sway bar, pound drivers side lots more, put a little heat on it, pound out link, put sway bar back on, install driver side link, reconnect bottom of both sides, touch up paint damaged taking out sway bar 1 hour 30 min.
Terry
Now, how did I just know that you'd have to remove the sway bar? :shades:
Jeep Announces Lower Prices on '07 Wrangler
I guess we'll have people complaing about having ABS forced on them now!
P.S. I'm old enough to remember them complaining about being forced to pay for seatbelts. :shades:
Insert the nozzle halfway, then fully squeeze the trigger until it first shuts off. Then just squeeze the trigger gently until the fill is complete.
I have my 97 Wrangler. I have a JKS 1.25" BL and corner armor 3/16" thick. My filler neck is VERY VERY tight and I can't really attach it to the black filler neck cover on the side of the Wrangler.
I'm wondering if I can use the plastic funnel thing (the part that the gas cap attaches to) from a later Wrangler. They seem a bit longer and I only need something about 1/2 to 3/4" longer than I have now for everything to fit comfortably.
I know the fuel hoses for the filler neck are shorter on the newer Wranglers, so the filler funnel part is longer, but I'm not sure if the diameter of those funnels is the same between the 97's and later models.
Any input or advice to relieve the strain?
-Paul
1. Needs to fit my '06 Unlimited
2. Want to eventually replace the front bumper
3. I want to be able to add a bike rack and cargo hauler via the hitch.
4 I may want to eventaully tow either jet ski or 4 wheelers - if I ever buy them
5. Right now we don't do a whole lot of tough off roading but down the road (as my 4 year old gets older) we will probably start doing more intense off roading (Can't wait).
6. Has to come in black.
Thank you all for your help and your suggestions.
However, if it were me I'd look at making a spacer to go between the filler (the part the gas cap fits to) and the back of the filler housing. The only question would be as to whether the cap could still be fitted to filler as it might now come up against the housing. If so, the central hole could be enlarged and the four filler to housing holes moved out a bit. The spacer would then have to be made a little larger in diameter so that the spacer could be secured to the back of the housing, and the filler secured to the back of the spacer (rather than just using longer screws as in the original configuration).
Finally, what to make the spacer out of? It needs to be dense, easily cut, and unaffected by gasoline. 'Starboard' comes to mind, readily available at marine stores but rather expensive. How about a white polyethylene cutting board, probably $5 at WalMart?
I was hoping you'd have information about the diameter of the hoses that the TJ's used from the filler neck to the tank neck.
-Paul
There many to choose from (just use Google). I use Olympic's 57" Rock Bumper front and rear. Having a front mounted hitch receiver is very useful for maneuvering trailers, recovery, and mounting a bike carrier or cargo tray to.
These particular bumpers cost around $200 each and will fit an '06.
Front
Rear
Rear:
Front:
Keep in mind, most aftermarket bumpers will have the hitch, but not necessarily say they are rated for Class I, II, or III. I think the only one that says ANYTHING is the Warn. I personally don't care for the Warn as it is not boxed, like the Jeeperman, or others out there. Which means - it may not handle the bumps/bruises of offroading as well and has the same basic shape as the stock bumper.
That said about ratings, if I can use my hitch location as a recovery point to pull my 4000 or so pound Jeep outta the mud, I don't see why it couldn't handle towing. Just keep your Unlimited rated tow capacity in mind.
-Paul
Sorry, I don't. I can tell you that the part number for the '97 hose is the same as for the '02.
-Paul
Yes, those are 33's on the stock Canyon wheels. They have enough room for articulation because I have 4.25" of BS. 5.5" BS - 1.25" wheel spacers (Spidertrax).
My lift is an OME 2.5" HD lift that netted me 3.25". I also have a JKS 1.25" body lift and JKS 1" budget (spacer) lift.
-Paul
I will say you were extremely unlucky to incur that much damage with a slow 90º roll. Mostly it just results in minor paint and panel damage.
Are you repairing it yourself?