I'd be looking on eBay then, Alan. You may find a back window there for your exact year. Also, you may be able to score extra side windows. They don't last forever and the ones from my 97 were looking kinda bad when I got my new top. I have since bought a used spare top/frame setup, including side windows. When I wheel in the winter, I use them and let THEM get scratched up.
Have you tried getting the rear window repaired at a marine canvas place? They should be able to repair a seam or replace the clear portion if necessary and it may be the cheapest option.
Yeah, my mechanic told me that it was probably the slave cylinder. (I believe it is internal, isn't it?) so if that's the case, then i'll get the new slave, clutch, and have the trans "freshened up"
Interesting diagnosis, especially as double de-clutching helped with engagment. The slave cylinder is usually external but is normally supplied only as a master/slave pair.
Can you engage first gear and then pull away by gradually releasing the clutch as normal?
Well, my life will be easier if its external, i thought i read somewhere that they began using external in 95, and i have a 92, but i don't know till i look for it. And yes, i can usually engage 1st gear and pull away normally. When i downshift, i now have to be way below the usual downshift speed otherwise i get vibrations and grinding. keep in mind that this is a 159,000 mile jeep
Ok, your slave may be internal then, though in this case it's not going to matter unfortunately. The symptoms are textbook for synchromesh problems I'm afraid.
Problems with the clutch not disengaging, whether it's the clutch itself or its release mechanism, can cause difficulty changing gear. However, it will also prevent you from pulling away from a standstill, and it won't affect different gears in different ways.
A lot will depend on what's found when the transmission is stripped down, and it may be cheaper to go for an exchange rebuilt unit if there's too much wear. Obviously, it will also make sense to replace the clutch at the same time unless it's only just been fitted..
Maybe you can claim it as a Christmas present to you and your Jeep! :shades:
I've heard about this being an issue with TJs but was not expecting it to happen to me.....I have lights on the dashboard but the dial indicators are ALL down.....I did not want to take it to the dealer to have it fixed....does anyone here have fixed it ? How much $$$$ ? Thanks
One thing I've heard is that the contacts between the dash and the gauge cluster can get off or be very dirty.
Take the dash gauges out (VERY EASY on a 97).
1. Remove knee panel. 2. Remove metal panel under knee panel 3. Remove defroster panel (pulls right out) 4. Remove gauge cluster cover with 4 screws. 5. Remove gauge cluster with 3 or 4 screws.
Once off, clean the contacts (both on the dash and gauge sides) with some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Allow to dry. If any appear bent, you can gently bend them back into shape. Add dilectric (however you spell that) to the contacts. Reassemble.
As erickpl said, plus you need to twist the male connectors five or ten degrees.........say from l to /. This will make sure they're in firm contact when reconnected, a lack of which causes the problem in the first place.
Oh, and you want dielectric ( :shades:) grease, available from any autoparts store.
I saw many Land Rovers, but also a white YJ and what looked like some kind of Suburban. One frame showed a definite lack of articulation... Wild guess, these shots come from England.
Thanks Paul and Mac, but I did not even need to do it. I forgot to mention that at the same time the indicators dropped, I also lost the dome and courtesy lights. When I replaced the fuse (which is #17), I got a very nice surprise that not only the courtesy lights and dome lights came back, but also the dial indicators came back to normal. This is a suggestion for anyone else that may have this problem, replace the fuse first and see if you get any results....I did....
I saw many Land Rovers, but also a white YJ and what looked like some kind of Suburban. One frame showed a definite lack of articulation... Wild guess, these shots come from England.
Yjbob, you're obviously having way too good of a time this evening! I don't know what you're doing but it seems to me like you're wearing beer goggles (you know, the ones that make members of the opposite sex (or should that be preferred gender?) seem so much more attractive).
Those are not good looking Land Rovers you saw, but a couple of examples of the not so pretty UAZ. I'll have to look again, but I don't remember a Jeep or Suburban, though there does appear to be a Toyota pickup being winched up a near vertical bank.
The scenery could easily be mistaken for the British countryside and woods, and it's probably around the same latitude, but it's a lot further east than that!
Yeah, the info about the dome lights mighta helped with a different diagnosis. Your description sounded exactly like the problem Mac and I described, hence the diagnosis.
Trust me, these are no JEEP WRANGLER in any way, shape, or form! They just aren't built to the kind of spec's that we insist on in our 'fun' vehicles.
You're right, I think that QC at the UAZ factory consists of counting that four wheels have been fitted, and the guys in your first pic are field checking one in ten to make sure an engine was installed.
Although your second pic show it to be true, it's hard to imagine the cost effectiveness of air freighting them.
Actually though, they do produce some more modern looking vehicles. What Jeep product does this UAZ 32624 remind you of?
We had to airfreight them to begin the contract. We airfreighted 312 of them. The airfreight was about as much as the cost of these things!
This is the first time that I have seen a non-military version of the 'Medium Wheeled Vehicle'. Almost like a 'fake Rolex' version of the Liberty. I wonder if it actually can handle any kind of rough terrain?
Varies on a case by case basis I suspect, but I'm sure it's a bargain compared to bringing up a child.
Therefore, if you can afford to have children you can definitely afford a Wrangler. In fact, you owe it to yourself to buy one just to get a taste of what it will be like!
Are you still driving a 4-banger, then? If yes, why did you stay with it? Seems most people prefer the 6 cylinder for off-roading.
There's nothing wrong with having a 4-banger, I have one, too, and I love it, but it's a city Jeep. Gets better milage than the stronger engine, and cheaper, too. I drove from Columbus, OH to San ANtonio and back, cost me $194 round-trip!
Trust me, these are no JEEP WRANGLER in any way, shape, or form! They just aren't built to the kind of spec's that we insist on in our 'fun' vehicles.
Actually, they aren't THAT bad...I drove one a few years ago in Europe (on a road, not off-road) with the top down, and it shore beats any passenger car...plus it has 4 doors...but it still ain't as refined as the Wrangler, of course.
Yep, I still have the 4 banger. Why? Cuz I like it!
Offroad it does great. On road around town it is great. The only time it sees highway is when I go on wheeling trips, so I can live with that.
At some point, my son will probably get the Jeep. At that point, we will probably consider a 6 or V8 swap. I just don't see the point of doing that now.
Buying another Jeep is not an option for me. Neither is an engine swap right now, but down the road it would be.
There's nothing wrong with having a 4-banger, I have one, too, and I love it, but it's a city Jeep. Gets better milage than the stronger engine, and cheaper, too. I drove from Columbus, OH to San ANtonio and back, cost me $194 round-trip!
Was that you I saw in my rearview mirror?
nah, I had a 4-banger in my 95 too, it worked fine. I just hated it on the highway. LOVE the I6 on my 98.
You should have ATF (Dexron III) in the t/c but I've seen all manner of things in there. Unscrew the level plug and a little bright red fluid should drip out. If it's low then stick your finger in to get a sample. If it's not bright red it needs changing, and if it's bright red but low then top it up.
If the t/c fluid has never been changed then depending on mileage, you may well have a problem. It should be changed every 30K, or sooner with heavy use or risk of contamination (water). Correct and regular servicing of the engine, transmission, axles and steering is imperative for a long and trouble free life.
Does it engage at all once the engine/transmission is warmed up?
I'm thinking it is something with the fluid. If it hasn't been changed, I would think it possible something broke in there (such as the fork that guides the lever/gears to engage the particular 4wd ranges (basically the thing you replace in a Tera 2-Lo conversion).
Start with a fluid check. The easiest solution is often the correct one (not always tho).
It won't engage once warmed up either. Today, while it was hovering about 40 degrees, i had both 4 high and low working. I think when i have it on the lift to change the oil, i'll check on the t/c fluid. Thanks again for your help guys
I just purchased my soft top 07 Unlimited and I live in snowy ohio. The salesman talked about some kind of stuff you put on the zippers to make them easier to slide. Anybody have any recommendations as to what to buy or any comments about them? Thanks
No, overfilling will result in coolant being expelled from the expansion tank (the white bottle next to the radiator) rather than from the radiator seams.
The radiators leak because the core is made of aluminum and the end tanks are made from plastic, which have differing rates of expansion when heated. This is initially compensated for with a flexible sealant between the two, but in time (usually after the warranty expires) it hardens, hence the leaks.
I am thinking about getting an air compressor for trail use. I still have my stock 30" tires on the Jeep and may go up to 33" in the future. Probably will never get an ARB locker. So what choices do I have? I have seen air compressors with tank priced well under $100. But they are more appropriate for shop use and a little too bulky to be installed on a Jeep. Are those low price(around %60)portables you find in auto stores good enough at all?
I recently bought a set of warn diff. plates. Is it possblle I can remove and install the 5 or six lower diff bolts quickly enough so that I dont have to take off the whole diff cover and re-seal it?
Is it possblle I can remove and install the 5 or six lower diff bolts quickly enough so that I dont have to take off the whole diff cover and re-seal it?
You ought to be able to get away with it. The diff covers often need to be pried off in order to remove them.
The only cheap one that is close to suitable in my opinion is the 'Truck Air', which is widely available for around $45. The fact that it pumps to 275psi is of little relevance, but what makes it suitable is that it provides a reasonable volume compared to many other small ones.
thanks for the tip on Truck Air. This sounds like atremendous deal compared to other products that are way too expensive in my opinion. I'll denifitely check it out.
If your driving is anything other than long uninterrupted highway trips you should use 'Schedule B' service requirements, which have the axle oil changed every 12K miles, or more frequently if there's any chance of contamination.
Comments
-Paul
Have you tried getting the rear window repaired at a marine canvas place? They should be able to repair a seam or replace the clear portion if necessary and it may be the cheapest option.
...or a master/slave setup....
Can you engage first gear and then pull away by gradually releasing the clutch as normal?
Problems with the clutch not disengaging, whether it's the clutch itself or its release mechanism, can cause difficulty changing gear. However, it will also prevent you from pulling away from a standstill, and it won't affect different gears in different ways.
A lot will depend on what's found when the transmission is stripped down, and it may be cheaper to go for an exchange rebuilt unit if there's too much wear. Obviously, it will also make sense to replace the clutch at the same time unless it's only just been fitted..
Maybe you can claim it as a Christmas present to you and your Jeep! :shades:
Take the dash gauges out (VERY EASY on a 97).
1. Remove knee panel.
2. Remove metal panel under knee panel
3. Remove defroster panel (pulls right out)
4. Remove gauge cluster cover with 4 screws.
5. Remove gauge cluster with 3 or 4 screws.
Once off, clean the contacts (both on the dash and gauge sides) with some isopropyl alcohol and a q-tip. Allow to dry. If any appear bent, you can gently bend them back into shape. Add dilectric (however you spell that) to the contacts. Reassemble.
-Paul
Oh, and you want dielectric ( :shades:) grease, available from any autoparts store.
See if you can identify any of the vehicles.
My Way!
Yjbob, you're obviously having way too good of a time this evening! I don't know what you're doing but it seems to me like you're wearing beer goggles (you know, the ones that make members of the opposite sex (or should that be preferred gender?) seem so much more attractive).
Those are not good looking Land Rovers you saw, but a couple of examples of the not so pretty UAZ. I'll have to look again, but I don't remember a Jeep or Suburban, though there does appear to be a Toyota pickup being winched up a near vertical bank.
The scenery could easily be mistaken for the British countryside and woods, and it's probably around the same latitude, but it's a lot further east than that!
UAZ
L-R
Glad it was an easy fuse fix!
-Paul
In the shipping business, I have shipped close to 10,000 of these vehicles to Iraq over the last 2 years.
These are the ones that we started with in 2004.
These are others that we moved by Air Freight!
Trust me, these are no JEEP WRANGLER in any way, shape, or form! They just aren't built to the kind of spec's that we insist on in our 'fun' vehicles.
Chuck
You're right, I think that QC at the UAZ factory consists of counting that four wheels have been fitted, and the guys in your first pic are field checking one in ten to make sure an engine was installed.
Although your second pic show it to be true, it's hard to imagine the cost effectiveness of air freighting them.
Actually though, they do produce some more modern looking vehicles. What Jeep product does this UAZ 32624 remind you of?
We had to airfreight them to begin the contract. We airfreighted 312 of them. The airfreight was about as much as the cost of these things!
This is the first time that I have seen a non-military version of the 'Medium Wheeled Vehicle'. Almost like a 'fake Rolex' version of the Liberty. I wonder if it actually can handle any kind of rough terrain?
Then, it begins to grow taller and steal from your wallet and even your wife's purse like some kind of crack head:
Then it starts to rant about its shoes being too small and sells the TV and silverware to a pawnshop to buy shoes:
What's next? Where does it end???
Mine started out puny and diminutive as well, but has grown and grown. He has reached his max height, but you know about all the accessories...
-Paul
Varies on a case by case basis I suspect, but I'm sure it's a bargain compared to bringing up a child.
Therefore, if you can afford to have children you can definitely afford a Wrangler. In fact, you owe it to yourself to buy one just to get a taste of what it will be like!
There's nothing wrong with having a 4-banger, I have one, too, and I love it, but it's a city Jeep. Gets better milage than the stronger engine, and cheaper, too. I drove from Columbus, OH to San ANtonio and back, cost me $194 round-trip!
Actually, they aren't THAT bad...I drove one a few years ago in Europe (on a road, not off-road) with the top down, and it shore beats any passenger car...plus it has 4 doors...but it still ain't as refined as the Wrangler, of course.
Offroad it does great. On road around town it is great. The only time it sees highway is when I go on wheeling trips, so I can live with that.
At some point, my son will probably get the Jeep. At that point, we will probably consider a 6 or V8 swap. I just don't see the point of doing that now.
Buying another Jeep is not an option for me. Neither is an engine swap right now, but down the road it would be.
-Paul
Was that you I saw in my rearview mirror?
nah, I had a 4-banger in my 95 too, it worked fine. I just hated it on the highway. LOVE the I6 on my 98.
would the transfer case have come with ATF or gear oil? I'm pretty sure the previous owner never would have changed it.
If the t/c fluid has never been changed then depending on mileage, you may well have a problem. It should be changed every 30K, or sooner with heavy use or risk of contamination (water). Correct and regular servicing of the engine, transmission, axles and steering is imperative for a long and trouble free life.
Does it engage at all once the engine/transmission is warmed up?
I'm thinking it is something with the fluid. If it hasn't been changed, I would think it possible something broke in there (such as the fork that guides the lever/gears to engage the particular 4wd ranges (basically the thing you replace in a Tera 2-Lo conversion).
Start with a fluid check. The easiest solution is often the correct one (not always tho).
-Paul
Thanks
The radiators leak because the core is made of aluminum and the end tanks are made from plastic, which have differing rates of expansion when heated. This is initially compensated for with a flexible sealant between the two, but in time (usually after the warranty expires) it hardens, hence the leaks.
You ought to be able to get away with it. The diff covers often need to be pried off in order to remove them.
Truck Air at Amazon Link
Very good question indeed. I have 24k on it, is it due for a change?