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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • darbowdarbow Posts: 30
    Wow, here i thought i was the only 01 Tribute owner to need rotors at 42k!! I blamed my wife's driving habits, oops, sorry honey!. I know about the iac valve (have a 98 Mustang-does the same thing) so everyone here can clean it for a couple bucks, go to and do a search on IAC valve to get the info. Our coolant light comes on (had it replaced once). So in dismay we will be trading in this once beloved suv for a 4Runner or Pathfinder this summer when the prices of used go down, like my new rotors! ha, ha. Have a great Holiday everyone!
  • darbowdarbow Posts: 30
    According to our dealer, dont leave your keys in the ignition while sitting (in a garage of course), due to the battery could drain if over a long period of time. just thought id pass that along.
  • hot exhaust parts contracting. some seem to be louder than others, but normal nonetheless.
  • Hey all, I am back after numerous computer issues. Thanks for the suggestions before. My '01 tribute ES still has a cold start issue. Its been in the shop three times and they haven't fixed it yet. There have been some things fixed by them to try to help (I would list but the invoices are in my truck which is at the dealership being looked at for this issue) and these repairs helped the problem a little but it still happens. They now are telling me that they think my problem is caused by a dirty throttle body. They want to clean it for $90. I am not very smart when it comes to things like this. My question is, would this cause a cold start issue, and is this normal for a trib that has 43,000? Any help is appreciated.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    It's a possible cause, yes, but do they have evidence of a dirty throttle body or are they going down the TSB list and guessing? That would be my main question.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    at the reliability ratings of an 01 Escape at MSN auto site.. It does very well...
  • We've had similar problems as others: coolant light, stalling. Here are two more: water dripping in on passenger side, perhaps from luggage rack? Biggest is a valva problem - apparently. Engine light came on and dealership had problem diagnosing - I'm still not sure they are right. At first tried to claim that Champion spark plugs were the problem. Then found that #6 had compression problems. Dealer talked to us about new engine! Instead, they're working on the valves. We loved the Tribute so much as first we thought about getting another one. Now, we're talking about no more Ford products.
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    For what it's worth, my mechanic (independent) recommends cleaning the throttle body on all Ford products about every 15-20K miles. Apparently the Ford throttle-body designs is condusive for this build-up. Clasley- With 43K I'd get it done anyway. $90.00 is about right based on cleaning
    products and labor. However, if you are mechanically inclined it's not too bad to clean
    and takes about 30 minutes and $10.00 worth of
    Throttle-body cleaner (3M is good and safe for
    parts finishes). I've done mine twice, and add
    BG44K as an aftermarket fuel-system treatment.
    It's about $20 a bottle, but I think worth it.
  • I have an '01 Escape and needed new rotors at 60K. The OEM rotors are substandard, like disposable razors. (Except the cost: $200/rotor for just the part). Any dealer line about "normal wear and tear" is baloney. For rotors to last through only one resurfacing is anything but "normal." I'll think twice before I buy another Escape if this problem isn't corrected.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Try Reybestos Rotors. I have Taurus and had goodluck with them. But I am not sure they have something for Escape. Usually they have two price range, go with the expensive one. I paid $59 per rotor which was the expensive one while dealer was asking $120 for motorcraft rotor. I did the entire job myself, you couldn't imagine how easy it was.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I have been lurking here and there to see how escape is performing for sometime. I am planning to purchase one as a second vehicle for my wife. I am aware that there are bunch of problems with early models too. I have myself Ford Taurus, it's been very good to me. One big adventage of Ford, there are informative discussion forums that you can always troubleshoot your problem and if possible fixit your self. Even you take it to dealer, you'll have some background of the issue.
    Now, there is brake issue, some sort of idling issue (Idel Air Control Module), water leak under glove compartment. These are the ones I have spotted from the Internet.
    What else I should expect from a 2003 (used one) @ 22K (approx.)Thanks
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    Just the opposite is true about reliability of the 01 Escape. Go to MSN and look at their reliability data! I own an 01 and its performed and met every one of my needs. As far as brakes go.. Some forget brake wear is dependant upon the driver and driving habits. Another thing people forget is the Escape is tops in its class for stopping distances. And yet another thing people forget is there are aftermarket parts that are better and less costly than Factory parts. I am going to have my brakes checked next week on my 01 with just under 36K miles. I let you know how it goes....
  • 35,000 miles on my Escape and it has been a good auto for me. I understand that Ford has sold over 1/2 million of the Escape/Tribute twins. Complaints seem real lowon such a high volume vehicle compared to other SUVs and Crossovers. I had the dealer do the transmission TSB and the stalling TSB--the Escape is running well after the changes.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
  • Consumer Reports online "Used Cars to Avoid"

    "These lists are drawn from reliability data on 1995 through 2002 models with above- or below-average reliability. Problems with the engine, engine cooling, transmission, and drive system were weighted more heavily than other problems."

    Included in the AVOID list is the Mazda Tribute(V6) 2001 & 2002. The newer models get better marks on CR. From my personal experience, I agree with Consumer Reports!

    I am currently weighing whether to keep my Trib and plan on rotor replacement (based on reports in this forum) or trade this baby in. I've had the stalling issue at just a few thousand miles, IAC later, driver safety belt problem, brake light came on this week and that is just off of the top of my head!
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I hear you. If I decide to go with this, it won't be Trib. Mazda screwed me big time before (I had a 97 626). Mazda, doesn't stand behind the product even the product is in warranty period (stalling, transmission-replaced 2 times were some of the problems). They refused to fix my car, I drove to dealership and traded that sucker, took 2K hit. Took the pictures of my new car and sent them to Mazda with a letter. From now and then, I do my best to convince people not to buy Mazda.

    The current Tirb/Escape transmission is my main concern that I had this crap in my X-626. Regardless of your maintenance habit this model has tendecy to fail.

    Dunno, may be I get a second Taurus. These generation-4 ones are very good. That is what I am driving now. It's been very good to me too. I'll be around to see more posts.
  • I bought a Tribute ES just 6 months ago(6000 miles) runs pretty good, except the clunking noise whenever the car stops after braking. The noise happens right at the moment the wheel stops..especially at regular braking(it rarely makes the when you do hard stops!)The best example of the sound would be your old style bike brakes when ever you made a hard stop. Also, if you have people on the back seat, as soon as you start braking it makes a continuous low pitch noise.

    I took it to the dealer, they could not find the reason..the brakes are good. But I know that when I bought the car it did not have this problem. Also, i have noticed that whenever the hand brake(parking!) is engaged, it makes a noise while you are sitting on the rear seat...usually, old cars with bad shocks make a silmilar noise!!! Any suggestion or advise??
  • I had my ES in for service (same dealer as purchased from)at the 54K mile mark and was told by the service mgr that I had 10% of the disk rotor left. I questioned the price ($505) and was told that the rotors could not be resurfaced. I knew the Mazda mechanic and he said that the Mazda rotors were not as robust as other manufacturers, therefore turning them down was not an option. From what I am reading in the Forum this seems to be a common case. It apparently is true for '01 and '02 year production. Too early for info on '03.
    RE: transmission "chatter". I had noticed early on (23K Mi) that when tranny down (or up)shifted from 3rd to 4th there was a vibration - similar to what you would feel if you ran over the warning tracks on major turnpikes. The Svce Mgr checked with Mazda and they suggested changing the shift (via computer) point to resolve. It worked and have not had any problems since then.
    I believe my veh was assembled in November '00 - if that helps anyone out there in Tribute land.
  • mckee4mckee4 Posts: 47
    To any concerned. The aftermarket parts for the Escape/Tribute are out there at reputable auto parts stores. I just priced a set (2) of replacement Wagner brand rotors for the front brakes. They are $96.00 for the pair, a vast
    difference from the OEM (which are composite and non-turnable). Raybetsos rotors are only nominally more per pair. I checked just to make
    sure and the replacement rotors are turnable
    and should be good for up to two (2) or three (3)
    turnings. Replacement brake pads are about $60
    for the ceramic variety (longer-life/low-dust).

    The next time I need brakes I'm definitely going the DIY route with a mechanic friend. Could come in a few hundred dollars cheaper than with the Ford dealership last time ($480.00).

    Snowman - I wondered if the tranny was from the
    the 626 model and you're right, it is. However,
    upon talking to my current mechanic he claims that
    the particular tranny in the current Escape/Tribute is no more problematic than other
    transmissions. However, I told him that from what others have said and I've heard that this model tranny may have some problems starting at
    ~75K miles. However, the upside is that improvements were made and upgrades were done. I
    just don't know if the improvements/upgrades were
    done pre- or post- Escape/Tribute.

    I've added 8oz. of X1-R friction eliminator to
    the transmission at my mechanic's request. I don't know if it'll help in the long run, but so
    far no problems as yet. I will be getting a full
    (including filter) transmission flush at 50K miles
    and will add an additional 4 oz. of X1-R as recommended.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    My first problem came @ 32K, The gearbox was whining. It took me while to convince the dealer lift the car up and put it on dyno. Then someone listened the gearbox and they confirmed that it needed to be replaced. Now If you asked me how I heard the gearbox whining, well delaer asked me too...:-)
    Be alert for whining.

    For your brakes, you decided well. AS long as you use ceramic pads (I used QS from Raybestos) you won't hear any squeak...

    Good luck...
  • 60,000km (about 40,000 miles). No issues on 2003 XLS V6. Runs like a champion. Been through 1 winter so far and about 20 trips to the cottage (150 miles roundtrip).
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    other chat rooms about Escapes/Tribs. Seems like most mechanics/techs are reccommending a fluid/flush of the transmission every 30,000 miles in these vehicles. I did mine about 28,000.. Spread the word to other Escape/Trib owners. Also, don't forget to flush your radiator fluid every 2 years. This too can save you some dollars down the road...
  • I have a 2001 Tribute. This winter, for the first time, I have been experiencing excessive fogging of my windows while driving in cold rain. The moisture built-up on the windows is so bad that I have had to pull off the road on more than one occasion - water droplets are forming on the inside of the windshield and door windows. This seems a bit excessive. This was not a problem the past two winters. I've tried every climate control setting imaginable with no luck. I consulted the owners manual and discovered that the a/c compressor, which removes moisture, does not operate if the air temp is below 43 F, which doesn't do me much good when it is raining and in the 30s. Is that a normal feature on a car/suv? Has anybody else had this problem and, if so, are there any solutions (other than continuing to tinker with the climate control settings)?
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    I find Ford's 30K interval very unrealistic. Even tough I have Taurus, I get it done every 20K. Ford transmissions run hotter then other makes. Many people use aux.trans cooler. So I believe early is the better.

    Mhynie: Have you tried to turned he heat on with AC on. This will increase cabin temp and your AC will kick in.
  • scape2scape2 Posts: 4,124
    I believe this is a characteristic for the Escape/Trib. At one point my windows too would fog up pretty fast. Then when I would initially turn on the defrost they would actually get worse! This would only last about 30seconds - a minute then the defrost would kick in. I found this to be annoying so I bought some rainX anti-fog, put this on and walla! no more fogging issues. However you do have to reapply about once a month or so.. There are probably other brands out there.. any car parts store should have either rain-X brand or another type brand.. Helps tons...
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    This is speculation, but I wonder if you can reprogram the A/C controller to ignore the minumum temperature requirement? Might be worth a phone call to a dealer. Sure seems like not being able to see out of your windshield is a lot worse than whatever their reason for the A/C cutoff!
  • Help! We had decided to keep the Trib (after my husband talked me into a new Tahoe for him - but that is another story). Got it detailed and looking spiffy. On my way home today, emission light comes on. Warranty expires Monday (purchased vehicle 1/12/01) and today is Saturday! Just to get the problem on record, I called the dealership this evening. Even though service department was closed, I did talk to sales manager. Hopefully, I won't get jerked around on the date issue since Monday is 36 months to the day for warranty? Any suggestions?? Thanks!

    Scape2 - Thanks for the tip on the transmission flush. Will do.
  • odie6lodie6l Hershey, PaPosts: 1,172
    the emission light came on because you emission carbon filter is either dirty or clogged. This can happen because of a tank of BAD gas, or because moisture got into you system. Add a can of dry gas to you next fill up help with the moisture (common problem in winter). But the light DOES have to be reset at dealer. Also Oxygenated fuel can cause the problem too. Oxygenated fuel for those who live in the southern states is an additive they add to winter fuel in the NorthEastern States... not sure about other northern states or northwestern states (Scape will probaly verify if they use it), It is usually common fuel from Nov 1st to Apr 1st around here. Hope that helps

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  • scnamescname Posts: 296
    warrantee on air polution system is a lot longer than the usual 3 years. Federa law mandates coverage of 7 years or 10 years I'm not sure which. You just maybe covered.
  • I drive a 2001 Tribute ES V6 with about 30k miles on it. Recently and intermittently, the gas pedal appears to be stuck in the idle position when the vehicle is stopped. Strong pressure needs to be applied to get the vehicle to move and very often too much gas is supplied and it surges forward. Has anyone encountered a similar problem?
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