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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 2003 Escape - same vehicle as the Tribute. I have the same issue that started over 1 year ago. I spoke with the Ford dealership and they advised I probably needed a new sensor. As I recall it started in the cold weather but who knows, it could have been a sharp turn as well. I choose not to fix it due to the potential cost. Soooo, the light remains on. The dealer advised the bag would not just inflate on it's own and it would probably work normally in a crash. But I don't intend to test that. Of course this does not answer your original question....
  • the oil light started flickering the other day when i was on a moderately steep grade and standing still in drive. checked oil and added half a quart. this has been the norm after about 2300 miles following an oil change due to a minor leak that appeared after about 80000 miles, don't know from where. light still flickers even though oil level is fine. sensor,pump, wiring.... any ideas?
  • I have a 2002 Tribute LX V6 that appears to have developed some electrical problems over the past few days. When I went to start it yesterday, the battery was dead and it needed to be jumped off. I had it jumped off and drove it to work and turned off the engine. When the engine was turned off, all electrical appears to die (including the odometer and PRND321 which is always on) and the car has to be locked manually. I did not think anything of it as the battery is as old as the car. Jumped it off again and drove home and it actually started again, although it did take awhile. Fast froward to this evening- the car has been sitting for 24 hours and was started without having to be jumped off, but the electrical system is still dead unless the car is running. We took the car in and had the battery replaced tonight, but the electrical system is still dead. Please note that the interior lights and radio are also not functioning when the car is running and the gauges are still "sweeping" once every time the car is started as if it is doing some type of self-test. The mechanic suggested that perhaps there is something wrong with the computer or electrical system. The car currently has 117k miles on it and has had issues with the airbag light since day one, but has really only had the fuel pump replaced as far as repairs. I find it strange that the electrical system is dead once the car is off but will function when the car is one. Please note that the before mentioned radio and interior lights do not function regardless of the ignition position.

    Has anyone else ever seen/had this problem?? I checked the radio fuse and it appears to be fine, but have not had a chance to check any other fuses.
  • It could be the GEM (General Electronics Module) that controls pretty much all the electrical functions of the vehicle. Perhaps, the dead battery and jumping it made it go haywire.
  • Thanks. Do you think this is a difficult and expensive problem to remedy?
  • Before you go and make the expense I would get it diagnosed by a Mazda or Ford dealer. However, if it is the GEM here are the part number/s and retail price.

    3L8Z-14B205-AA (w/Keyless Entry) $355.02
    YL8Z-14B205-EA (w/o Keyless Entry) $318.76

    This is a plug and go module so there is no need for dealer to program. This module should be in the engine bay area around the Fuse Box area and it will be a square module with a couple connectors coming out the side.

    Good Luck!
  • Thanks for the advice! I finally had some more time to look in the owners manual and check more of the fuses since the rain and snow stopped. It turned out to only be a fuse and now everything is working as it should be.

    Thanks again!
  • I read your complaint. Rest assure you are not the only on suffering. I have a 2006...I had the same problem.....I had to left my engine block, remove the oil found in the holders for the spark plugs.....also replaced Major Catalic Converter connected to the engine...replaced drive shaft twice.....replace the device, a major component that keeps the oil from leaking underneath the car.....complete sensor overhaul...6 engine sensors replaced because the keep going out...engine comes on and off continously....tie end rods rear need replacing...Transmission rebuilt $1500....went out without warning....just would not go....everything that I have mentioned occurred from 2008 until now....with another $2000 needed in about a lemon...but, since I have certified mechanics repair my vehicle....I will not qualify for the lemon....but, I still owe on my vehicle.....just to inform you of what is to come next...good luck...try the Lemon Law, because your vehicle will endure these issue....
  • My 2006 ford escape has 37,000 miles. While braking I heard a loud roaring sound coming from the back right tire/brake. I immediately drove to local repair shop and the car did not make the noise while they were testing it.... now the roaring grinding sound is back and louder than before, roars when braking, turning and a slight grinding sound while driving. What could be the problem and why does it make the sound and then stop for two months and now making the sound again? Suggestions? Car does not pull while braking. :cry:
  • Circumstances left the car sitting for about 5 months in NYC (so through the winter). I've just replaced the battery. It cranks, but it's not firing. What can I check/usual suspects, without having to tow it to a shop to resolve? thx for any input.
  • tomv3tomv3 Posts: 8
    If the noise is coming from a particular wheel then open up that wheel. Sounds like a brake component problem, perhaps a wheel cylinder, busted spring or the like.
  • cbausercbauser Posts: 2
    I have tried using a burned CD-R in my CD player and it just keeps trying to read a disc and never plays. A regular CD works fine. What CD types does the single disc CD Player support?
  • Chances are you burned the CD in data instead of music format. Anything burned in music format will play.
  • cbausercbauser Posts: 2
    I don't usually make mistakes like that but now that you mention it that very well could be a possibility. Thanks for your help, I will post again if I have issues.
  • bmb6bmb6 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out the problem?? I have the same issue
  • i am having the same problem ut mine is a 2005 hybrid and i almost got crushed by a semi on a nerrow road because it stalled right in the middle of driving and i had no where to turn off. it stalled over 10 times in about a 200 mile spand, any ides
  • It has been 2+ years since I last posted and wanted to give an update on my 2008 Escape V6 Limited. Still idle stalls and more importantly rolling stalls. Rolling stalls comes and goes, but idle stall is pretty regular event. Had the car in the shop lots of times back in 08 and they actually documented that it rolling stalled(whoo hoo!), they changed some parts, cleaned some sensors and things seems to be a little better. Then some bad luck. The Ford dealer I was going to went out of business and with it all of my service history and proof that there was/is a problem. When both stall types came back I was forced by Ford to start all over again with a new dealer and none of my all service records were carried over. I called Ford directly and they said I was sh*t out of luck, your old records are toast and you need to start all over again. At that point I just figured it is less aggrivating to lose power stearing and breaks going down a steep hill than it is to deal with Ford. In the wake of all the Toyota problems I hope someone is listening, but I doubt it, I may make one more push for some type of resolution but will probably end up with me replacing the truck with something else(obviously not a Ford).
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    Didn't you keep your receipts where it states the problem, resolution and parts replaced from the delaership you used to use before they went out of business? Those receipts should be the exact same records that the dealership had. Also, if parts were replaced under warranty to fix a problem. Any Ford dealership has access to OASIS which is Ford's mainframe to everything service related including TSBs, recalls and VIN specific performed recalls and parts replaced. Don't take any B.S. for an answer.
  • The Ford dealer was always, "We will mail you the documentation" and of course they never did or it was just a simple "your truck was here for a problem". I figured each time the problem would be fixed so never followed up. I also figured everthing was in a cetral system and could be reproduced later. This is not the case, they record what they did to the truck, but not as much why they did it, that is just classaction lawsuit fodder to include what they were trying to fix.
  • clairebclaireb Posts: 12
    Had problems with ours - would run fine, get us somewhere then would not start again, would have to wait for the engine to cool down and the it would start up again, could never duplicate it at the garage - they replaced stuff quite a few times, never any errors reported on the computer. In the end, we replaced the fuel pump and got it it's 90,000 mile service -so far so good - no more engine starting problems - 1 year later.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    I don't know if it would have anything to do with this mysterious no start after normal operating temperature with Escapes and Tributes. But earlier Hondas, 88-93 Accords and Civics to be exact, would do the same thing when the main relay, which controls fuel pump would get hot whether it was engine heat or outside ambient temperature. The fix was to replace the main relay.
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Posts: 44
    I need to recharge the refrigerant on my 02 Tribute V6. There are two fittings: one is on a larger tube that runs between the condensor (I think) and the receiver drier, and sticks out horizontally.

    The 2nd fitting is on a smaller tube, and runs from the condensor into the firewall (can't see where it terminates), and sticks up vertically.

    I'm assuming that the first fitting above is the low side. Is that correct?

    Thanks in advance for your help.
  • vg33e powervg33e power Posts: 314
    The line going from compressor to drier that has the fitting sideways is the low side (suction). The high side (discharge) does not have a fitting and it goes from compressor directly into the condenser The line that is coming from inside the firewall (which essentially is coming from the evaporator inside the car) to the condenser that has the fitting standing upright is a liquid line.
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Posts: 44
    Thanks so much. I'm really hoping it's just a recharge issue, and not something more expensive.
  • mjmiller01mjmiller01 Posts: 1
    I had this same problem.

    I have a 2005 Escape XLT with the 3.0

    was still in warranty. Dealer had it towed to the shop, replaced all coils and plugs and PCM..had lass than 10k on it when it happened.
  • rolgonrolgon Posts: 2
    Hi Everyone, any help on this one will be much appreciated. My 2003 Mazda Tribute 3.0L is having a starting issue,first start up of the day (engine cool)starts up and runs just fine. You can drive around all day long it idles perfect at stop lights with a/c on or off, however the minute you turn it off and attempt to restart that is when the problem occurs. It will start up once again however as soon as it starts the rpm's go up to about 1500 (normal) then after a second or so go all the way down and shuts off. It will repeat this a few times and then start up and be fine again.The other scenario is that sometimes instead of it shutting itself completely off the rpm's drop and it stumbles for a second or two and then recovers to a normal idle and be fine until shut off and restart again.As I said it only does this when the engine is warmed up.I have replaced the MAF sensor, plugs, and coils in the hopes of fixing the problem with no luck.Anyone have any ideas or have had the same problem? Thanks Rolgon.

  • rdm925rdm925 Posts: 46
    My wife's 2003 Tribute w/ the V-6 and 96,000 miles had a serious coolnat leak last Friday. Luckily we got to a shop ASAP. They wouldn't be able to look at it til tomorrow.
    Has anyone else had a leak or coolant problem and what caused it? Please let me know. :sick:
  • rolgonrolgon Posts: 2
    OK Mystery solved !!! I decided the next logical step would be to replace the IAC ( Idle Air Controller ) and that did the trick. After the fact I spoke to a friend who is a mechanic and he explained to me that it is not uncommon to have a IAC or a MAF going bad and never see a trouble code on a scanner. I am just glad it is now fixed. If you are having similar symptoms I hope you read this and it helps you diagnose your problem before you go out and spend a bunch of money on buying different sensors and other remedies.Once I purchased the IAC Motor and got it home it took about 5 minutes to replace.Good Luck. Rolgon :)
  • Hi all, I have a 2002 Tribute LX-V6 with 220 000 km's. I'm having an issue with the abs and brake light coming on. Sometime they come on together and other times the abs will come on shortly through the trip then the brake light will come on. I have talked to the dealer and she warned me that this will be an expensive fix, but wouldn't till me what's wrong with it. From previous posts, it sounds like it could be a dirty sensor or even a bad abs module, but there hasn't been any response to these posts as to if they've been fixed. Just looking for info on this before I have to dish out a pile of cash.

  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    Take it to Autozone and they will read the trouble codes for free. Then you can decide what to do.
  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    auto zone only checks engine codes no ABS codes
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    Here is a link to read the trouble codes for yourself.

    You jumper the pins, turn the ignition on, the ABS light will flash with the error codes, there should be a list of codes on the internet or through ALLDATA which you can access via the local library for free.
  • Thanks for the help, but there's no Auto Zone in my part of Canada. Nobody up here gives things away for free! It's to bad!
  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Panic call from wife - car wouldn't start, steering wheel and gear shift locked up solid, key would turn but nothing happened. First time event - my check showed - car unlocked and locked normally with key remote, key turned normally in ignition but no power except fan was turning - no indicator lights or any other indicators, steering wheel was locked solid as was the gear shift (automatic), after numerous attempts including stamping on brake pedal and operating remote I gave up and phoned Ford roadside assistancce. Prompt response, mech checked battery (OK), checked around engine and concluded starter was problem, towed car to dealer where it sat overnight. Call to dealer next morning elicited fact that they unlocked the car and it started first time. They performed the usual diagnostic checks and everything was normal (as there is no event memory in the computer it only checks in real time) and it continued to respond to normal starts throughout the day. Conclusion - no fault found. I suspect a computer glitch somewhere as the dealer was surprised that there was no power to the indicators and instruments etc. as there should have been. Now my wife is jumpy about driving the damn thing in case it happens again when I'm not available - has anyone experienced this or similar problems and if so what actions were taken.
  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Addendum to previous message re starting problem. Car ran well for first 15000 miles - no problems. Since then the following has occurred: severe leak from windshield washer reservoir (reservoir replaced), extreme noise from under the hood while stationary and running (idler bearing failure, idler replaced), recall to check for leaks in A/C heat exchanger (leaks found, H/E replaced), reset/menu buttons fail to function intermittently (dealer finds no problem and buttons work when he operates them, but problem recurs as soon as I drive it), failure-to-start problem as enumerated in earlier message (a littlle more info on that - car sat for a couple of hours in 90+ heat, after towing to dealer overnight temp. went down to the high seventies - 90+ temps have not affected car previously so I don't think that is a factor; perhaps a bump from towing reprogrammed the computer???).
    Where is "Ford build tough" if one can only drive trouble free for 15000 miles?
    Incidentally I mentioned a couple of interior design glitches to Ford when I bought the car - indicator panel (outside temp, compass and time) on top of scuttle is unreadable in daylight, lid on center console stowage has sharp corners on which one can bang elbows very easily - should be rounded off: no response from company on what are admittedly minor points but do detract from ones driving experience.
  • javier5javier5 Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Mazda Tribute (3.0L V6) and have been told that the EGR Valve needs to be replaced. Where I live, it has been difficult to find the part for a Mazda Tribute, but there is a Ford dealer that can order it for me. I would like to know if the 2005 Mazda Tribute and the 2005 Ford Escape share the same engine and if the EGR Valve would be the same. Thanks to anyone who can share some advice.
  • racenutracenut Posts: 10
    Yes they are the same motor but if you go to Ford tell them it`s a escape. You also can try Auto Zone or Advance the part is a lot less money
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    edited June 2010
    Same for both...Tribute or Escape.

    Ford Part# XR1Z-9D475-BA or Motorcraft #CX-2071
    List price $86.89
  • cap8cap8 Posts: 1
    I couldn't believe it when I read both of your posts. Have had the exact same problem for almost two years. We took it to the dealer and other mechanics who could not find any problem with it. Replaced the IAC ($55) with ease and have had no more problems. What a simple fix. Why doesn't Mazda have a clue? Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!!!! Living in the desert we can now have a reliable vehicle again.
  • chappy36chappy36 Posts: 1
    the car runs great in the winter whenever the weather gets above 65 it starts misfiring and check engine light comes on. I have replace plugs coils fuel filter and intake rings. Tried gas w/o ethonal no help, dont want to take it to ford, cant afford them any help would be appreciated.
  • frankrealtfrankrealt Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Hope you can help, have same problem, trying to find where the Idle air control value is located? 2001 Ford Escape
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Iddle Air Control Valve (IACV) is located bolted on the intake manifold right behind where the throttle body mounts to on a 3.0L V6
  • buyahorsebuyahorse Posts: 2
    I have the same problem as a lot of you. I drive my 2002 Escape on a hot day with or without the air on. Turn it off for a while the start it again or drive on a street that is 25mph with a lot of stop signs and it wants to stall when I push the accelerator pedal starting from a stop sign. I've done a complete 100,000 mile tune up (coil packs, plugs and manifold gaskets). I've seen that other people have replaced the IAC valve so I did that too. Other solutions that I've seen range from replacing components to using non ethanol gas but has anyone found THE fix?
  • mekaniko1mekaniko1 Posts: 1
    I spent $12 to fix mine. What happened was that the linkage pin retaining ring came out, letting the cable and the bushings come out the pin. All I did was put new bushings ($6) and retaining ring ($6 for 102 pieces).
  • My 2003 Escape has had this since problem ever since I got it over 3 years ago. Whenever the temperature gets into the upper 90's, the car won't run. It will START just fine, but the instant I take my foot off the gas to shift into forward or reverse it will die just like if I turned off the key. In other words, it seems like hot weather sets the idle speed to "ZERO". When this last happened about 2 months ago, Ford charged me a whole lot of money to change my upper and lower intake gaskets and told me it was all fixed. So today once again the weather gets hot and STRANDED! The car finally started again after the sun went down. Stranded for about 3 hours. I am sick of this. It runs fine during the rest of the year but if it is hot it is worthless.
  • jrountreejrountree Posts: 3
    My 2003 Ford Escape would also have starting problems when the temperature would be hot or a significant change in temperature in a short period of time. The engine would start but die as soon as you took your foot off the gas. I found that if you kept your foot on the gas and not let the engine return to idle speed that it would stay running (not recommended). After driving it a few miles, and not letting the rpm's return to idle, the problem went away. I have had this problem for the last several years. This vehicle also left my wife and kid stranding in parking lots at the mall and various after school activities. I went to the Ford dealership and they could not find the problem, and after several mechanic's later, I found a mechanic who had a passion finding or a competitive nature in finding problems like this. He replaced the accelerator control module, and I have not had the problem since. It was a fairly expense part, around $230.00. He thinks that it heats up in the hotter temperatures and malfunctions.
  • Did you have to go to Mazda to get the bushings? I know that Mazda will only sell the complete cable assy and not the retainer separately to the tune of $80. Since the cable popped off I need to find a diagram of the assy to see how bushings, cable, etc go together. What style of retaining ring did you use?

  • Does anyone know where there is a repair manual I can get for an 08 Mazda Tribute? Thanks :confuse:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Sometimes you can get lucky at your local library (without even going there).

    Online Repair Manuals
  • Thank you I will give that a shot. Appreciate it
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