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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Thank you very much for the suggestions! The vehicle has never overheated to my knowledge. I'm betting the problem may have something to do with the PCM, but bad coils could be possible too.

    I'll check into the PCM issue, and if we get it figured out I'll post again so that others with a similar problem can maybe get some help as well!

    THANKS!!
  • Can anyone tell me where the pick up sensor is for the tachometer in a V6 2003 Tribute? I have scoured the internet but can not find anything. Also, have two Chiltons manuals (for different vehicles) but they tend not to cover an automatic transmission in detail.

    My Tachometer is stuck at 3000 rpm with the key in the ignition but the vehicle NOT started. Is there another source for this problem?

    Thanks,
  • If your tach is stuck at 3K RPMs I dont think your problem is the pick-up sensor (which probably is the crank sensor). I think you need a new cluster assembly.
  • Sorry, poor choice of words. The tach sits at zero until I turn on the ignition. Then it jumps immediately to 3K and is stuck there. At some point, maybe a half hour of driving it will begin to function normally.

    That is why I believe it is the pick up sensor.

    Thanks.
  • I still think is your cluster assembly, because the tach gets its signal from the ECM which gets the signal from the crank sensor. If your crank sensor was bad the check engine light would go on and a DTC would be stored. To me it sounds like the electronics in your cluster may have a short or are malfunctioning, but you are more then welcome to get another opinion.
  • About 2 weeks ago, dropped kids off at day care and car wouldn't start unless I gave a lot of gas. Then today, after being parked outside for 6 hours in the rain (not sure if that matters or not), car would start then die- had to keep pumping gas to get it going. Had to keep in neutral and keep rpms over 1 or it would die. Had to drive home (25 miles) with 2 kids making sure I put in neutral as I approached a stop while braking and giving gas at same time to keep rpms up. Anyone have a clue? Got home and let sit for 1 hour, and of course go to start it and it is fine....

    I appreciate any help, as I am on a very tight budget, Love my car but with two kids under three I can't be stranded let alone afford a tow bill. THANKS!!
  • Thanks very much for the info.

    It could very well be the cluster, which is prohibitive to replace just for the tach function in an automatic. Don't even know why they put a tach in an automatic. My Harley, which should have tach, doesn't.

    Thanks again.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Unlike Harleys, most car engines today are so quiet so need a tach to confirm that you actually started the engine. I've still managed to crank a running engine a couple of times. :D
  • I was wondering if anyone has had or is having the same problem as I am. I have a 2006 Ford Escape. Recently it started giving me the problem of not starting. I brought it to the my local Ford dealer and they ran a diagnostics and could not find anything wrong with it. It does not turn over. I thought perhaps it was the fuse, switch or relay but I am begining to think it is the inginition switch, I have anothe appointment on 9-14-09 and would llike to know if anyone has had any trouble like this.
  • Steve,

    I find it hard to believe I need a tach to tell me the engine is running, if that is the sole reason they put a tach in an automatic; well, there are other means (less expensive) to indicate the car is running.

    However, what I did notice is that I disconnected the battery for 30 seconds or so, and then reconnected. I inserted the key in the ignition and turned it on but did not start it. The tach, cycled up to 3k, then back down to 0, then sat there for about 15 seconds, Then went back to 3k. Suspicious???

    In order for the tach to sit at 3K, it has to have some bias signal at the tach

    I can see some sort of electronic circuit feeding the tach input but am not sure what it could be. For the tach to jump to 3K and then bleed off, and then jump back to 3k (not exactly jump, but ramp up to 3K) is strange. All elicited by removing the battery. Or, is this standard, simply by resetting the car's electronics?

    What I need is an electrical wiring diagram for my tribute. Is there a pdf file or ...... something on line I can look at.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Wiring diagrams are hit and miss, but I've found quite a few online. Try the links in the Online Repair Manuals guide.
  • I am thinking of getting a 2006 or 2007 Escape, FWD, V6. How are these vehicles holding up? Is it the same for the Tribute and Mariners?
  • Bmrich,

    It has been my experience that there is a problem with the transmission in both the tribute and the escape (sister vehicles). Google "escape transmissions" and you will discover what I am speaking off. There are a number of reported issues.

    This was the first time I did all the serice work by the book (typically I do the work myself, but on this vehicle I had the dealership perform the work). Alot of good that did. My tribute transmission died at 60K miles and the dealer does not want to claim responsibility. I took the vehicle to TSI transmissions and had it fixed, I was not going to put another dollar into the mazda dealer pocket. $2500.

    I would request the ford dealership kick in a warranty on the transmission for the life of the vehicle before I would consider buying it.

    hwmspec
  • The tire noise is driving us crazy. The service bulletin on the squeaky suspension worked out okay after I told the dealership about it. We were foolish to buy it after the test drive but $ clouded our vision. No wonder it was so cheap. It is cheap! Sad too because I do think it has the best lines of any small SUV.
  • farnfarn Posts: 2
    Hi! Snowman. the car dealers are no different here in the England. i am having trouble with engine mounts on my 2002 tribute 3lt lx auto. over here you can only get parts through Mazda dealerships and they are a real rip off. i can do most things like that myself.but have just renewed the rear engine mount through the nearest dealer and the price was astronomical. have sourced parts through the internet and find that the parts are only a fraction of the price of over there but your shops do not export the parts over here. my main gripe is that at least you have outletets for d.i.y. can anyone suggest any way i can get the parts from over there regards zebedee
  • hwmspec,

    Thanks for the info on the transmission. I read that the Tribute had transmission problems but did not see carryover to the Escape or Mariner. I know they are essentially the same vehicle but I thought maybe the Tribute was a bit different to add its zoom-zoom. I guess I was wrong.
  • ho2who2w Posts: 1
    It's happening to my 2004 as well. Same behavior.

    Started at about 25K. I don't ride the clutch at all when I drive, and my last car had over 120K with original clutch.

    If you notice the problem, let's hope it is still under warranty.
  • mweismweis Posts: 2
    I have on 09' with 8000 on it that I got back in March to replace my MPV. at 300 miles I had to take it back to the dealer because the brakes were not right. They had to redo them. Just before 3000 the battery died completely and had to be replaced. (Could not even be jump started) There is also a vibration i the car that they are trying to figure out. So far replacing motor mounts has not really solced the problem vibration/ noise problem. They told me there was a piece missing from under my hood and that was why my hood was shaking :{ I also noticed a bolt missing from the bumper. I just woner what else might be missing.

    2 questions - 1. How quiete or noisey should my car be? I think our old 98 Taurus is a quieter ride for goodness sake. Noise is all on acceleration.

    2. What is a normal engine temp reading for this vehicle? Mine is sitting right in the middle.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Is your Tribute a V6 or 4 cylinder?
  • mweismweis Posts: 2
    It is a 4 cylinder
  • jim701jim701 Posts: 5
    My 2005 Escape 3.0L XLT without any previous problems recently started up fine after two weeks without use, then just quit and refused to start as battery was totally dead. After jump, start up was rough, engine check icon appeared on dash and when put in drive had little power. My local Ford dealer recommended tilt-lift to shop. Diagnostics showed multiple malfunctions related to plugs and coils and when the suspect coils were changed, the problem extended further into the PCM area and I was advised that the PCM had failed and would have to be renewed. I was then told that the PCM could not be gauranteed unless all 6 plugs and coils were renewed. Thus with gaskets, minor shop stuff and labour, my only option to get back on the road was a bill of $2600. My odometer has just passed 100k kms.and the vehicle is 4+ years old so the Ford dealer says that the 3 yr/60k kms warranty is ineffective. The mechanic did share the TSB which relates to this problem almost to a "T". Is this a widespread problem? Is there a case to have Ford pay/share the costs of these fixes?
  • Once it dries out it is fine. By the way don't try 4 Wheeling in the Surf, I was driving in town and a hard pouring rain turned into a flash flood. The water went over the tail pipe and I had to have 2 Catalytic converters replaced as well as the Fuel Oxygen Sensor, the Air Intake Valve, and the EGR Valve. Over 2 Grand in Damage, but since it was a flood Geico covered all but the deductable.

    It has been running fine until this morning. It rained last night and it sputtered and had no power, and I had to put it in park and hold gas and brakes at the lights, floor it to get to 45 MPH with the emergency lights on.

    I made it to work, the sun came out, it dried out, and ran fine.
  • I own a 2004 Ford Escape with the V-6 engine that will not start at times when the engine temperature is between 40 to 45 degrees fahrenheit. The condition started after the car was three years old. It occurs if the ambient temperature is in the 40 to 45 degree range and the engine has cooled to that temperature. It also occurs if the air temperature is lower then 40 degrees and the engine block is warm and allowed to cool down to 40 to 45 degrees. In both cases the engine will crank and crank and crank but will not start unless I push the accelerator to the floor and hold it there while continuing to crank the engine. If I hold the pedal to the floor while cranking, it usually cranks over two or three more times and then starts. The car has been to the dealer for the problem and they found no codes and where not able to duplicate the problem. Of course that night I picked up the car at the dealer and it does its no start routine in the parking lot after the service department had left for the day. It has done this 12 to 15 times in the last couple years but on only one occasion did it crank more then two or three turns after holding the fuel pedal to the floor. That time the engine turned over at least 15 times after pushing the fuel pedal to the floor before it started. Other then the occasionally no start condition discussed above, the car starts and runs great. The car has 57,000 miles on it. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • Bought my 01 Ford Escape 4x4 XLT Sport new in Nov., 2002. I have about 152,000 miles on it; mostly highway miles. Michigan-driven for five years and Florida for two years. Ford dealer-maintained, except for Amsoil program from 2007-2009. Converted back to Motocraft all-synthetic 5W20 oil in September. Tire wear exceptional (third set in September). Original tires, and second replacement (SUV) set got noisy after 50K miles. Always rotated tires at 7,500 miles. Front end alignment has been within spec since new. Noted leaking around oil pan at latest dealer service (September). Replaced oil pan gasket. Had noisy front suspension, even though struts, shocks, and brakes were new in September. Found upper engine mount failed, along with worn right and left inner-outer tie rods and lower control arm bushings. Only abnormality at present is dampness underneath power takeoff housing. 3L V6 runs very well; no oil consumption. Milege is close to new; 18-23 in warm weather.

    I have the highest-milege Escape 4x4 that my Lincoln (Florida) and Ford (Michigan) dealers have seen. Been with Ford since 1992, and quite satisfied with their service.

    Thanks
  • Hello there SIr

    I have gotten a email notice you are having troubles with stalling and hard to start
    there are a few conditions that can lead to that however your Ford escape is new can rule out that theres no engine wear,
    have you checked the Idle air control valve?
    also check fuel pressure regulator,
    theres another condition which the car stalls if the ambient temperature is extreamly hot but thats not your case. its cold, this would be a bad idle control valve,
    I have seen a lot of this going on even my own car does the samething,
    the problem I believe is that the Ethanol in the gas is causing your problems
    switch to a non-ethanol gasoline should salve your problem!

    to get regular gas is some what hard, but however if you have a boat marina near by you should be able to buy the gas there (call to make sure it has no ethanol it it) but you cant put it in your car needs be in gas cans. for boat use only, but it regular gas that was for car in the days of old.

    Email asus2908 at yahoo.com and let me know how its going? :)
  • Hello there

    are you using E10 gas which is ethanol, this can cause stalling in cars if its at a high level
    try using non-ethanol fuels only place to find it is at a boat marinia.

    let me know if this fixes the problem. :)
  • November 5:
    2002 Ford Escape XLT Sport 4x4 V6 (152K miles):
    Inspecting the engine/transaxle/suspension area, I noted dampness underneath the power take-off housing (transfer case). Took it in to my local Ford (Lincoln-Mercury) servicing dealer, and determined that the unit had failed internally, and was venting lubricant. Ordered new unit ($1,350), and will have it replaced November 11. This is in addition to the $1,960 invested in engine mount, suspension, steering, and oil pan gasket replacement October 14. The vehicle has performed very well since new, but recent events (150K miles) have dramatically increased maintenance costs. Will continue to operate this vehicle into the distant future to recoup these costs. Fortunately, we replaced the shocks, struts, brakes, and tires in September.
  • All,

    I am having multiple misfires with my 2004 ford escape. Cylinders 1,2,4, and 6 are misfiring. It has always had problems when there has been a recant rain with high humidity. It seems like there is moisture getting in the fuel system. Now it does it all the time. I replaced the plugs about 8 months ago. The engine misfires only when holding a constant speed. It doesn't seem to misfire when accelerating or decelerating but can be felt when at idle. Any help would be appreciated.
  • I was told to post and search in this section...so here it goes!

    Hi everyone,

    My husband and I are military and will be based in Minot, ND. We have been doing alot of research and test driving small-midsize SUVs. So far, our first choice is an Escape XLT with 4WD. However, I want to know if anyone has had problems with the reliability of their Escapes? I had a terrible experience with my previous Ford, a 2003 Ford Focus ZTS. I just had to have a rebuilt transmission put in it 6 months ago with 91,000 miles on the car. I've also had problems with my alternator/battery, due to inexperienced Ford mechanics. However, I am willing to put this negativity aside if I can get some positive feedback about the Escape. This will be our first SUV and we think this vehicle suits our needs the best (i.e. driving in snow, towing, hauling/moving things, etc.). Also, I just read in a previous post about the engines in Escapes stalling? That is a major concern to me and if I am getting myself into a trap, please let me know now versus after I purchase an Escape. Many Thanks!!!!
  • Just started having this problem, did you ever find out what caused this to happen or how to fix this problem?
  • Have you asked this question of the local mechanics where you will be living? try a goodyear service store, or Mr. Goodwrench, and local transmission repair places, ask them how often they service the Escape 4wd. what they have to say about local vehicles would be helpful, I would think.
  • Ok Here goes. I have a 2002 Ford Escape. but it is 2WD. I have 101,900 miles on this vehicle, which I bought new! At 32,000 miles my A/C Compressor went out. Had it replaced under warranty. At 65,000 miles. I had 2 Coil Packs go bad..... that's it!! (Knock On Wood). The rest is up to you!. I change my Oil every 3,000 miles, every 40,000 miles I change my transmission fluid. Rotate tires every other oil change. flushed radiator every 40,000 miles. Yes I am very Anal when it comes to PREVENTIVE Maintenance on my vehicles. Now don't get me wrong, I have had to do general maintenance on stuff that wears out(brakes, battery, wipers, tires, shocks) but its really how you take care of your vehicle. You cant just get in it and forget about it! I guarantee you, if you follow your owners manual on Maintenance schedule, it will last you for a long time. keep in mind on 4WD's you have to change the differential oil more if you off road it alot! I hope this helps. And thank you for a future buy from the ONLY Auto Manfuacturer in the world that didn't take any Government Bail out money. :shades:
  • Hi- Bought a 2003 Escape new in October 02. Have been very pleased except for 2 issues. At about 73,000 I had 3 cylinders which had the coils go bad. 2 weeks apart. Each plug has a coil, with a boot over them. The plugs are to be changed every 100,000 miles, but the boots failed, so the coils blew. $1200 later I replaced all the boots, the 3 bad coils and new plugs all the way around. Ford denied any responsibility- I requested they pay half and documented everything- but understand they changed the composition of the boot - so??? Any rate the other thing , both my wife and I find bad about the Escape, is the shortness and hardness of the front seats. They may have changed the firmness and length by now, but if not the legs really tire on a long trip. Other than that I think it is the best small SUV on the market. Oh and do not get a 4cyl. Get the 6. Hopes this helps.......
  • Didn't even think of that! I'll call an AAMCO repair center and Goodyear or Firestone store tomorrow! Thanks!!! :)
  • Thank you for letting me know about the coils. I will also mention this to the dealership. I am just nervous about it because this is the first car my husband and I have bought. I think that I just had a bad experience with my Focus. Don't get me wrong, I have enjoyed driving it but having to deal with it breaking down alot is a mess. Hopefully, this time we will have a better experience! *Crosses fingers*!!! :)
  • Thanks so much for your positive feedback! I will definitely stick to the manual and take good care of my Escape, just like I did with my Focus. I guess I just need to stick to my first choice then and get an Escape!!! :)
  • I have a 2006 Ford Escape that will not crank in the mornings when the temperature outside is below 45 degrees. It doesn't make a sound when you turn the ignition switch. There are no error codes comming up with this problem. The car operates perfect the rest of the time. The car never stalls out or shows any hint of a problem the rest of the time. I purchased a warranty when I bought the car so the dealership want even look at it unless they have it in their posession while it is acting up. The problem with leaving it with them is that the temperature goes up by the time they get to work and by then its cranking with no problem. I took the car to Interstate Battery and my battery and alternator are fine. I'm wondering if the problem is related to some sort of a computer or sensor problem that is not allowing the car to start at this temperature. It's like the built in security system when you lock your car door with the window down and then reach your hand in the window and unlock the door without using the key from the outside and then stick the key in the ignition and try to crank it and the car doesn't make a noise and doesn't crank. That's just like it does with my no crank problem. This is becomming an annoying problem because I have to leave for work early in the morning and having to catch a ride with someone else to drive to work and then my roomate is able to get in the car and crank it up by the time I get to work. Have you found out what yours and my problem is? Can anyone on the forum make any suggestion to what my problem is.
  • I have a 2006 Ford Escape that will not crank in the mornings when the temperature outside is below 45 degrees. It doesn't make a sound when you turn the ignition switch. There are no error codes coming up with this problem. The car operates perfect the rest of the time. The other confusion is that the temperature doesn't effect the car cranking the rest of the day, no matter how cold it gets outside. The car never stalls out or shows any hint of a problem the rest of the time. I purchased a warranty when I bought the car so the dealership want even look at it unless they have it in their possession while it is acting up. The problem with leaving it with them is that the temperature goes up by the time they get to the dealership and by then its cranking with no problem. I took the car to Interstate Battery and my battery and alternator are fine. I'm wondering if the problem is related to some sort of a computer or sensor problem that is not allowing the car to start at this temperature. It's like the built in security system when you lock your car door with the window down and then reach your hand in the window and unlock the door without using the key from the outside and then stick the key in the ignition and try to crank it and the car doesn't make a noise and doesn't crank. That's just like it does with my no crank problem. This is becoming an annoying problem because I have to leave for work early in the morning and having to catch a ride with someone else to drive to work and then my roommate is able to get in the car and crank it up by the time I get to work. Have you found out what yours and my problem is? Can anyone on the forum make any suggestion to what my problem is.
  • we started out yesterday morning no problems.got back in vehicle to come home trans seemed like it had a stall speed in it. once on open road it would accelerate shift into 2nd and rpms would go to 3&4 thousand then the battery light would come on.it has 100300miles on it regulary serviced never any trouble new battery 6mo ago.thanks for any help you might offer
  • carss1carss1 Posts: 1
    Have you determined what the problem is yet? I have a 2005 Escape and have been having a very similar problem for the past three weeks or so, except mine is only misfiring on the 4th or 5th cylinder (not sure which one). It's also definitely caused by moisture because it's only happening when it rains or snows. I was thinking that it was the ignition coil as opposed to the fuel because I had this same problem almost exactly a year ago and they replaced the ignition coil and it seemed to fix the problem until now. My mechanic assured me that the ignition coil just went bad and moisture had nothing to do with it, but I KNOW that's not the case. It's running fine all week so far because we have had no rain or snow. I am taking it to the garage on Thursday....
  • We've had the same issue. In our case, it was the intake manifold gaskets. We had them replaced, and the spark plugs too, and then about 2 months later, we had the same problem (vehicle misfiring on 2 cylinders, running rough at idle) all over again. Took the vehicle to a different mechanic, and found out that the intake manifold gaskets were leaking AGAIN, and that one of the spark plugs was white (probably from the vehicle running too lean). Had to have the intake manifold gaskets replaced again, as well as one of the new spark plugs we'd just replaced. Hope this helps. If nothing else, it's something to consider. We even replaced the IAC and a few other emissions related parts thinking maybe those were the problem, but that wasn't it.
  • Up front, I will say that I have owned my 2005 Escape LTD for its entire life...and it's been a great vehicle. It's towed trailers, been there in the snow and ice of the Sierras, and I mean big snow and big ice...the kind that scares the hell out of you. (Even more than the LA freeway :-) It's taken my husband and I through the desert and all manner of weather, without a hitch. It now lives in New England. But it's age may be showing...or at least Ford's. I've posted on these boards: concerns over a Theft light and hesitation that many other owners have experienced, and with different Escape vintages that Ford themselves have created DTCs for as far back as 2007. I said that I would get back to chatters with whatever ensued. So here's the latest installment: I just today, 01-06-2010, trusting that a BBB's report was current, brought the aforementioned Escape to the dea-leur at the crack of dawn. (Well, for me 6:30 was the crack of dawn here in Conneckaticket!) And then Ford's bigger problem poured itself all over me--quality control. Actually, quality-out-of-control is more like it. Here's how it unravelled (as depicted in a letter I sent to the, ahum-m, Manager of the dealership, which shall remain nameless...oh what the heck. They're on Boston Road in Madison. There! That oughta do it. So here it is:

    "Hi,

    I'm certain that you receive all manner of reports, sent by customers. Consider this one more of a heads-up...something that will hopefully not reach the complaint stage. This morning, Wednesday, the 6th of January, 2010, I came into your establishment for a service check--this the product of a problem that has suddenly reared its head in my vehicle. This was my first time at your dealership. I chose you because I'd read good things about your group, and frankly have checked you out on the BBB site. Here's an account of how its gone so far:

    Arrived a bit ahead of my 8:30 appointment, which I confirmed online. Followed the signs where they led me, which turned out to be wrong--was told to speak with person at front desk. Returned to front desk, and person there, who seemed unduly nervous, began the process of checking me in, entering whatever into her database--the usual. The only thing that wasn't "the usual," was the curt demeanor with which she asked her questions and answered mine. And when I was asked for the very same information I'd already entered into the online form, like VIN#, etcetera, and also issued the natural--and politely put--question "Haven't you received the online form I filled out yesterday?", she got unnecessarily short with me--as if annoyed. I went out to get the Registration, returned, and the atmosphere disintegrated from there, but not to the argumentative stage because I avoided it. (Pat myself on the back!) We got it all sorted out, but I think the pall of friction that hit me when I first entered that room is something that you should be apprised of.

    The girl at the front desk may have been stressed because of the man sitting just behind her at the second desk. The fellow was on edge. The few questions the girl asked him were answered abruptly with unnecessary edginess--almost as if he were trying to get into it with someone. He even acted this way with another customer whom he spoke with. In my case, I simply asked about the process that was clearly explained on the Ford website and then on the form I filled out online--about what would happen, and how I would be speaking with a rep/mechanic or whomever. Frankly, I have done so much research on the problem I'm experiencing with my vehicle that, thanks to the contributors in various chatrooms, I might have lent someone insight--it's a problem that many are talking about on the net on various Websites.

    I had also spoken to someone there at your dealership and pre-ordered a rental vehicle, on January 5th, in anticipation of at least a day's time being needed by the mechanics--in retrospect, thinking about it, I believe that the gruff person at the second desk may very well have been the person I spoke with. But after my asking for my vehicle, he not only claimed to "not know" anything about the reservation but also not even know if there were any vehicles available. We eventually sorted it all out. But the gruff person's parting phrase "someone will drive your vehicle and call today" was somehow not very reassuring; not how the, quote, friendly verbiage on the website explained it would all go.

    These are stressful times for many, but there is absolutely no need for rudeness, ill-manners and blanket-anger. Professionals don't do this sort of thing. If they do, their business doesn't make it over the long haul. And your claim, "After 26 years of serving the Connecticut shoreline, we know what works and what doesn't for both vehicles and customers," can't possibly be what was going through the minds of the people I dealt with this morning.

    One other thing, the rental car I eventually took possession of was filthy--trash under both front seats, also four bottles hidden beneath a paper mat on the passenger side, dirty inside and dirtier out. I walked backed into the office and calmly let the girl know. She earlier made such a big thing of not smoking in the vehicles--I don't smoke, but the person who used the vehicle I've been given did...cigars!--that I thought she'd appreciate knowing just what kind of mess I found (and I will bring back to your dealership, you can bet on that). To accentuate the point, I carried in just one of the cups--the one left in the console cup holder--and handed to her, after first asking where I could dispose of it.

    Thinking you've got some internal morale building to do,

    XXXXXXXX-still waiting for a call from your mechanic-XXXXXXXXXX

    Well, (this is not part of the letter, but my continuing missive to the chatters) I know this is not your usual Ford chat talk thingy, but, like I asked in the title: Ford had a banner year? How? And is this a B horror-movie? The outcome of this was: I got a call from the Manager. She reamed me non-stop for, like, 10 minutes on the phone. I asked if she'd really read the letter. She reamed me some more. I sat there amazed...so did my husband, who listened to the whole exchange. Manager said "Come get your vehicle, we think your personality will conflict with ours." I wedged a "Is Ford entering the Shrink phase of their business?" There was a lengthy pause on the Manager's end. (Which I doubt ever really happens.) I asked if she'd hung up? She began with the bullying diatribe. I broke the connection, went to pick up "Sir." (Yeah, it's anthropomorphization to the max! But he's clear coat black and beautiful! So "Sir" hit me right outa the shute.) And my dirty rent-a-car tab they picked up...as I'd suggested they should. I'm still on the hunt for a fix to the Escape's problem. I'll be back with whatever happens, hoping it helps some of you out there...and with less text this time:-)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Yikes. Here's another place or two to post:

    Get ratings & reviews on car dealers & repair shops in your neighborhood

    Dealer Ratings and Reviews

    btw, we frown on posting individual's names but posting the dealer name is ok.
  • Sure, what the heck: First, this doesn't have anything to with "stalling and hard to start". Has to do with what I, and hundreds of other people have said since 2007--backed up by Ford's very own TSB and DTC publications. It's a "hesitation accompanied by a Theft light...mostly at speed, but sometimes while simply pulling out of a parking space. And, second, this has nothing to do--at least in my case and hundreds of other 2005 Escape owners cases--with Ethanol, because most of us do not utilize Ethanol but in fact just old Regular gas (as Ford recommends...at least in my manual--issued by, of all people, FORD. Thirdly, whom do you work for...and please avoid the "20 yrs as a Master Mechanic stuff."

    P.S. Sorry if I've hurt your feelings, but there's so much of this sciolist pap on the web, in the guise of true knowledge I mean, that it's an insult to thinking and caring people...of which you are obviously one...I mean.

    P.S.S. There will not be any direct e-mails, as requested by the mediator/moderator of this chat room...and a darned good request that is...!
  • pjr4pjr4 Posts: 3
    ap124,
    I recently started having the same problem but it is more intermittent. It started happening in cold weather but I don’t know if that is a factor. Three times in the last 3 weeks the car will not start. It will not crank. The only sound is a relay contacting behind the dash board. In one case it started ten minutes later and was fine for about a week. When it happened a second time it would not start all day until the tow truck driver tried to start if several times. I brought it to the dealer, where I purchased the car, and left it for over a week where it was parked outside. It started every time they tried it. I took it back and used it for a week, it was fine in sub-20 degree temperatures and now it won’t start this morning. In addition I have been hearing a clicking noise behind the dash board when cursing in high gear. Have you had any luck resolving your problem? If so what did they find?
    Thanks!
    pjr4
  • pjr4pjr4 Posts: 3
    chrisadir0057,
    I recently started having the same problem but it is more intermittent. It started happening in cold weather but I don’t know if that is a factor. Three times in the last 3 weeks the car will not start. It will not crank. The only sound is a relay contacting behind the dash board. In one case it started ten minutes later and was fine for about a week. When it happened a second time it would not start all day until the tow truck driver tried to start if several times. I brought it to the dealer, where I purchased the car, and left it for over a week where it was parked outside. It started every time they tried it. I took it back and used it for a week, it was fine in sub-20 degree temperatures and now it won’t start this morning. In addition I have been hearing a clicking noise behind the dash board when cursing in high gear. Have you had any luck resolving your problem? If so what did they find?
    Thanks!
  • Automobile batteries only last 4-5 years. Problem usually shows up on cold morning with solenoid clicking and no start. Today's batteries give no warning like slow cranking. My son's 2005 Escape would not start yesterday morning and had solenoid clicking away. Went to Walmart and bought a new battery for $68 and solved problem.
  • at the started to go it died put it in park, started it up no problem put it in drive it died and i just put in a new engine
  • pjr4pjr4 Posts: 3
    having the same problem with my 2006 escape. Dealer has been no help. Have you resolved the problem?
  • Last week I took a tight corner in my 2003 Tribute and something metallic rolled across inside the dashboard. Then the airbag light came on. It was off and on intermittently for 3 days then it started flashing code 7-4 when the cars starts before it stays on. Might anyone know what that code means?
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