GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali

danz42

Thanks except my manual only tells me how much I can tow (7600lbs). It talks about GCWR but doesn't specify what it is. Also it says to find out the weight of the vehicle empty I should weigh it(go figure)

Is there any other place I could find this info?

Thanks again!

glsable

Edmunds shows an approx. empty weight of about 5,570 lbs for a K-1500.

Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) is the weight carried on the vehicle's 4 tires: vehicle empty weight (EW), passengers (pax), bags and tongue weight.
     GVW = EW + pax + bags + tongue wt

Gross Combined Weight (GCW) is the total weight carried on the vehicle's tires and on the trailer's tires, all together: vehicle empty weight, passengers, bags and trailer weight*:
     GCW = EW + pax + bags + trailer wt
     * note you don't have to add in the tongue
      weight since it is already included in the
      trailer wt

danz42

My manual doesn't tell me what the max combined gross vehcle weight can be. Is this listed anywhere?

Thanks!

michy2

I have a 2003 Yukon (just took delivery 6 weeks ago) and have the same problem... so annoying that I took it to the dealer where I had to leave it for four days before they were able to source the problem (which they did through GM's technical assistance dept.). They gave me the same comment, that it's "inherent to the vehicle", that some do it worse than others and there's nothing that can be done about it, aside from hanging weights from the exhaust as dampeners to lessen the noise and vibration, which they did. The problem did not go away... the noise changed somewhat but is not gone. I have filed for arbitration to try and get GM to buy back the vehicle. I can't drive it with that low droning noise at idle... too irritating. Lots of others have complained in the past on the Yukon/Tahoe board and 2 that I know of had vehicle buybacks for same problem. Guess it depends on how bad it is. Mine is pretty bad.

bhammerton

My wife and I are the recent purchasers of a 2001 YXL and we love it. I have been able to figure out almost all of the RPO codes except for three (isn't the internet a wonderful thing.) I was hoping someone on this board could help me out with the three remaining RPO codes; they are AXP, 6XL and 7XL.

rentfree

We have been following much of everyone's informative input here and would like your opinions as Suburban/Yukon XL owners. We are currently weighing the purchase of a used 2000 Yukon XL 1500 4WD SLT that seems pretty well equipped with 17" chromed wheels, split rear cargo doors, Onstar, 2nd row captains buckets, very clean with 47,000 miles and assembled in Mexico. The price in So.Calif is $22,500. Please volunteer your personal Pro or Con for buying used vs buying new 2003 with the incentives and so close to 2004 model year (perhaps with no incentives). Which might make the most sense, since about $16,000 separate 3 or 4 model years.

Thanks in advance.

refereeguy

I recently went through the same dilemma. My conclusion was that for the difference in a monthly payment, (in your case $266 mo for 60)I was better off with a full warranty, 2 years of refinement to the vehicle over all, much improved seats, ability to get a vehicle equipped how I wanted it. Plus items like tires, brakes, exhaust, and fluid replacement which are all routine maintenance items that come up around the 40-60K miles. Not to mention that at 44,000 miles, roughly 20% of the vehicles life is used up and those first miles are critical in terms of how the truck was broke in. Break-in can have a direct impact on the life of the vehicle.

I was able to get my Z71 for invoice less the $500 Conquest rebate, less the 1.5% advertising fee, less the Clean Vehicle tax credit I will be taking on this years taxes, plus 0% financing.

I could probably come up with some other ways to justify going with new vs 2 yr old in todays market, but it all comes down to what a person can afford.

Maybe the biggest reason of all, which you can't put a price on- that new car smell!

Best wishes.

glsable

I think the 'new' vs. 'used' argument is very much a personal decision. as there are many factors involved.

To get a good idea of how prices vary with age and mileage I suggest checking Carmax's database. You can widen your search to local, regional or nationwide areas.

4burb

I have an 02 LT with the stock 16 inch wheels. I have a chance to pick up some Z71 wheels and tires off a new Tahoe. Has anyone made the swap and run into problems? I see no reason it would not work so I thought I would check. Thanks,

fclspat

Purchased an '00 GMC Yukon SLE (w/sunroof and 3rd row) for about $33k ($36k less $3k GM card rebate). I'm not the type to trade in (O drive them till they die).. but I was chatting with my dealer and they are wlling to give me $20k on a trade (it has 36k miles)... in exchange for a Yukon XL SLE (no options). They'll sell me the XL for $36 (GMS) less $3k rebate and $1k GM Card Rebate... so I'm out of pocket $12k (plus tax)...

I'm suddenly thinking it may make sense to pull the trigger. Thoughts?

BTW, The XL has a bench seat. How is its comfort vs. the buckets I have now....

kent25

Assuming you have owned the Yukon for about 36 months, $12K out of pocket relates to about $4K per year, or about $350/month for the time you have owned it. It's tough to even lease a mid-priced car for 3 years for that kind of money. Getting another 3 years on the warranty is also worth a grand or two. SOunds like a flip into the new one makes alot of sense.

outthere

We have a 2002 Yukon XL- it has a little over 32,000 miles (we have enjoyed driving it) I took it in to get serviced and drove a 2003 sort of got that ole trading fever doggone it.

With the mileage it has now I am wondering if those extended warranties are good or not?

Anybody had experiences with adding on the warranty?

Thanks

fclspat

I know exactly how you feel.

We were set with keeping the truck (00 Yukon) so I purchased a 6yr/75mi zero deductible GM Major Guard warranty from Hamilton Chevrolet in MI. They were dirt cheap ($2100) vs my local dealer (I'm in NY). You may want to give them a call.

But now I'm thinking TRADE IN. But they will give you a refund on the prorated unused warranty... even more of a reason to pull the trigger on the trade!!! YIPEE!!!

outthere

Thanks for the info. fclspat

I am undecided if I should hold on to see what the 2004's will be like over the 2003.

The Current 2002 Yukon XL has been o.k. for us we have had a few minor problems.
(see if anybody experienced any of these)
passenger door lock kept falling out, think I'll use super glue)
Also every once in a while when a rough spot in the road or pot hole was hit the lights on the dash would flicker.
Took it to a dealer and they came up with some type of ground needing replacing. Haven't had that problem lately.

Looks like with the formula for used vehicle trade ins on this site that around 28-29K would be tops.

Anybody debating over 2003 vs. 2004? I know that dealers will be anxious to move the 2003's when the 04's start rolling in.

Thanks

fclspat

is there any significant changes in store for the '04s?

rentfree

Hello and thanks for your prior replies about new vs used Yukon XLs.

We have narrowed down to 2 impeccable previously owned Yukon XL's.

2000 SLT model is 4wd etc. with moonroof and no heated or memory seat features and has bench 2nd seat and 46,000 original owner miles.

2001 SLT model is 2wd with autoride, moonroof, captain chairs 2nd row seating, memory heated seats and 41,500 original owner miles.

They are clones otherwise, color wise and tire wise.

We haven't needed 4wd before but it seems to be popular, especially for resale.

Any experienced opinions about what your own choice might be and why would be immensely helpful, since we are indecisive and befuddled.

Thanks in advance, especially some of you who may be on your 2nd or 3rd Yukons.

FWIW.....We had heard, incidentally, that 2004 Yukon and Suburban models will all use 17" wheels and that 2005 will probably entail some styling redesign and revisions.

lobsenza

is important if you live in areas with snow/ice. It can also be important if you go off road or on a boat ramp (which tends to be slick). If you don't have any of those issues, 2 WD should be enough. Maintenance/repairs will be slightly higher on a 4 WD.

rentfree

Thanks lobsenza

How about tire wear or fuel consumption?

Any other surprises or headaches?

Any pluses one year over another?

tmdlkwd

I received some info from GMC about the Yukon XL 2004. I emailed them and I received some info from the marketing dept...." Allegedly " Production begins around 6-23 and they are due to hit the dealerships 4-8 weeks after. For those interested, Quadrasteer will not be available on the 1500 series. In some regions, the bonus cash of $2000.00 will be offered until 9-30 for the 03 models...We all know things can change.

Is there any other info out there on the 04 ?, it worth waiting for ??

Thanks

lobsenza

There is additional weight with 4 wd, so fuel economy will suffer slightly (but not much, .1 mpg max) in 2 wd high. It will suffer a little more in 4 wd auto because an additional drive shaft is spinning. Again, this is more significant, but not much.

I don't know of any tire wear differences.

The 2000 models were a new design, so they probably had a few teathing problems.

sporty2222

I am thinking about buying a 2001-2003 Tahoe or Suburban K1500 and am trying to get some honest daily MPG figures. I do mostly city driving. Any help would be appreciated? I would like to know average MPG for a full tank.
Thanks in advance!

stakeout

just read a article in July Motor Trend about the 'SS' designation for some Chebby models in the future TrailBlazer, Tahoe and Silverado.. '04 maybe???.. no mention of Suburban though..

does anyone have info on any it.. will they be making an 'SS' burban??..we have two '01 'burbans .. so looking starting pretty soon again..

anyone have any info on incentives .. I saw mentioned in another post about '$2000 bonus cash'...is that besides the $3K rebates going on???...hadn't seen or heard anything on it..

also anyone hear if GM is continuing their 'early lease turn in' program if you buy another GM... supposedly it's going on right now for leases ending from now until end of '03.. ours end in early '04...

glsable

We made similar choices recently when selecting our first Surburban (although we went with new rather than used):

2WD vs 4WD: we have been used to FWD cars and vans that can slog through most snow on the roads in winter, but were concerned with a front-engine/rear-wheel-drive vehicle (even with locking diff) in the snow so we went with 4WD. If resale is a concern, 4WD is a big advantage. Unlike the Denalis and Escalades, the Yukons/Suburbans can select 2WD-Hi mode and get 2mpg better.

Rear Buckets: this was a must for us for easy 3rd row access. And we didn't really need the 8th seat, so it was a good trade-off.

My wife says the heated seats are great!

glsable

Reply to Sporty2222:
The problem with "honest daily MPG figures" is that they are so dependent on the actual conditions. Some days I can drive around the city at a steady 35mph, or on the city freeways, and other days I am sitting in traffic for 1/2 hour crawling along. The results vary dramitcally, and so really don't mean anything to anyone else. I think it is better to compare mileages using the EPA numbers for each vehicle.

hieatt

After much deliberation, and after looking on Chevrolet's web site, we finally found the Suburban with the options we wanted and went today to buy it. Here is the weird thing: the "virtual sticker" on GM's web site did not list Autoride as an option, and indeed nor did the real sticker on the truck. However, the "LT" emblems on the side of the truck behind the passenger doors say "Autoride"!!! I asked the salesman about this, and he said "Wow, that's lucky... looks like you are getting Autoride for free!". We took the car home, all the while wondering whether we really did get lucky or whether some factory worker just put on the wrong emblems. Has anyone else ever heard of such a thing??? Could it be a sign of something fishy?? He told me the car was dealer traded from Texas, and now having it home I find that it is missing the remote and wireless head phones for the factory DVD player. It also has some nicks in the paint. Obviously I will go back to get them to remedy these matters, but I suddenly am nervous about this truck!!

lobsenza

I believe you should be able to see a plastic air line going to each rear shock if you have autoride. There should also be a box underneath with the compressor. In addition, if you put a lot of weight in the back of the vehicle and start the truck, you should hear the compressor leveling the truck after a slight delay (outside the truck only).

Is autoride standard on an LT?

joebas

Autoride is about a $1200 option on LT. I have an LT about 5 weeks now with just over 1000 miles on it. By the way, the autoride is great.

errerr

for those who are asking about the 2004 changes this site has the info http://eogld.ecomm.gm.com/dmdindex.htm
mostly just minor color changes

joose

Thanks for the replies. I decided to go with the "no DRLs is better than 1 DRL" idea.....pulled the fuse in the engine compartment. I don't mind DRLs, but I do mind asymmetry :-) Too bad Chevy/dealer couldn't figure out how to fix.

2heeldrive

just minor color changes EXCEPT for the addition of HYDROBOOST brakes on the 1500 models. This is a major change and in my opinion is long overdue.... about 12 years overdue!

laklein

Just picked up the 03 suburban and find it great all-around.I do however have a question that I hope some one might have an answer for. A neighbor who owns a 2000 Suburban told me that if I use the cigarette lighter outlet for my phone charger or a radar detector, that it would cause a short. Is that correct? Thanks

lobsenza

No, it will not. I do it all the time.

fclspat

Not sure if you guys care, but I'm trading my '00 Yukon SLE ($20k for the trade) for an '03 XL... and I'm picking it up tomorrow!!!!
The deal gets better and better...

The '03 is a stripper so the MSRP is a bit over $40k... they'll sell it for under $35.9 (GMS). The regular rebate is $3k. And GMS gets a $250 kicker rebate... and GM just announced a $500 rebate if you buy by July 4 plus I have another $1000 in GM Card Rebates (after July 31 you cannot use GM Card rebate w/GMS)... and I will be getting a $1600 refund on my MajorGuard extended warranty on the '00. so I would be out of pocket in the mid $9k range! UNREAL!!!!

For those who think that trucks dont have feelings... since pulling the trigger on the deal my '00, which has given us basically no trouble to date, blew the drivers power window motor on Tuesday and then got pulled over by a cop on Wednesday for a tail light being out!!!

shieatt

Well, I did check for the air lines and compressor and they aren't there. My Suburban with "Autoride" badges doesn't have Autoride. I have written letters to my dealer (who affirmed that it was so equipped) and to General Motors complaining about the misleading badges. Also, what is up with the $500 "Conquest" rebate you are supposed to receive when you participate in the 24 Hour Test Drive and don't currently own/lease a GM vehicle? My dealer gave me the runaround, first saying the 24 Hour Test Drive expired, and then saying that the Suburban wasn't an eligible vehicle. From everything I've read, these statements are a load of crap, and I have also complained in writing to the dealer and to General Motors about not having received the rebate. Anyone with any information on this?

13b

New to the group. Here is my experience. Just bought 03 Suburban LT. Got a price quote through Chevy internet from dealer $300 under invoice. When I asked if we had room to bring the price down $700 more, I was asked type of car the Suburban was replacing. When I said Dodge, they accepted my request for full $700 reduction. I assume $500 if that was a conquest rebate, something a GMC dealer mentioned quietly after dropping his quote by $500 after asking same question. Bottom line, I bought the Suburban without any trade in $1000 below invoice and before any rebates, and credit half of that to conquest rebate. I've had it for 3 weeks and love it.

 If anyone has good lessons learned installing electric brake controller on Suburban/Yukon, I'd appreciate hearing it.

hieatt

Thanks for the input on the conquest rebate 13b. As it turns out, my 3 page letter to the dealer paid off. I got a call today from the sales manager who was very apologetic. He acknowledged the rebate and otherwise actually offered to take the truck back and find another one for us since our experience was so rotten. I think I'm going to take him up on it - it didn't phase him when I told him we took it to Michigan (from Cincinnati) this weekend and that after little more than a week we have put 1300 miles on it. Anyway, I now see they are offering an additional rebate for all Suburbans with OnStar - $695 as I recall. I'll update you on how my trade goes - we are going to find one with Autoride - for real this time!

richphillips

Regarding 13B's controller, I went with a Prodigy, $129 at camping world. I bought the 10 dollar harness, so it plugs right in under the dash, above your left foot, then it plugs into the back of the progidy, no splicing, plus in and out in 30 seconds. I just leave the wiring harness in it. You should have gotten a 40 amp fuse with your trailer package. If not buy one, and it goes into the main fuse box, on the left front shock tower, I believe it goes in Slot A or 1, but the inside of the fuse box has a schematic. 1 hour start to finish, if you bolt it up, under the dash. Tekonsha's web site has install info http://www.tekonsha.com/instructions/4399g.pdf
The Teconsha plug in wiring harness is different for 03 than 00-02, so watch the model #, if you go that way.

bberisford1

Don't confuse Autoride with the auto leveling system.

Autoride is a computer controlled system to adjust the dampening in the all four shock absorbers. Based on vehicle dynamics and shock stroke length and speed of stroke, the computer adjusts damping (soft or hard) numerouse times per second. It is a separate, and expensive option. A way to tell if you have Autoride is to check and see if you have the shock stroke potentiometer attached to the car body and suspension arm in the left front wheel well.

Autoride is totally different than the air leveling system with the electric air compressor motor.

c182skylane

you should have only paid $3500 below invoice. There is a $3000 rebate and a $500 dealer cash incentive. your dealer just made $2500 profit in addition to their noraml profit on these trucks. ouch.

13b

c182skylane, I appreciate your analysis, but I did say, "$1000 below invoice before any rebates." Yes, the $500 conquest can be considered a rebate. However, who would let the dealer keep a well advertised $3000 rebate? In my case, starting with a price $1000 below invoice, the price was further reduced by the $3000 rebate, $3350 GM Card cash, and a $750 military discount. Maybe I could have done better, but I feel pretty good about the deal I got, which if I did my math right was $8100 below invoice before tax, title, etc.

shieatt

Barry - Thanks for the tip. I hope that I haven't created a big stir over my simple ignorance. My dealer is obtaining another Suburban for me today... in South Bend, IN. In any event, I understand that Autoride adjusts dampening, and I understand that all 1500 LT Suburbans have rear-leveling shocks that do not use air. But, is it not true that if I had Autoride I would indeed see some type of hose or wire connected to each shock absorber? And doesn't Autoride indeed use air to assist in leveling the vehicle??

c182skylane

indeed, that's a great price. did you consider the GMC Yukon XL?

shieatt

Just because you had me worried, I went out at lunch today to see if I could confirm the lack of Autoride on my Suburban. First I took it to the nearest Chevrolet dealer and asked one of the service reps. Surprisingly he said he had no idea how to tell and that he didn't know what Autoride looked like - remind me not to take my truck there for service. Frustrated, I drove to the nearby local GMC dealer and compared the rear shock absorbers on a regular Yukon XL with those on a Denali (which has Autoride standard). Indeed, I noted a small wire/hose connected to each of the rear shock absorbers on the Denali, while the standard Yukon XL shock absorbers looked just like the ones on my Suburban. So, it looks like I made the right analysis in the end and I won't be embarassed when I go to get my new Suburban tomorrow.

glsable

Reply to 13b:
For comparisons I don't think it is appropriate to include the GM Card cash as part of a discount below invoice. My cards give "rebates" back in various forms (including cash that I can use at the GM dealer) but I believe that money is really part of the cash down, not part of the negotiated discount.

About the $750 military discount, I don't agree with GM on this one (as there are many non military types that are part of the war effort), but that is GM's choice. I am sure I will get yelled at for being "unpatriotic" or something! Anyway, good for you to get the $750 off.

glsable

I see on chevy.com that rebates are up another $500 to $3500, plus an additional $695 with OnStar (which I believe is standard on all Suburban LTs)!! Take delivery by July 7!

13b

glsable, good point on the GM Card as cash down not good for comparison w/ negotiated price. Far as military discount...I'll resist temptation and leave that for another forum.

c182skylane, I did consider the Yukon XL. The SLT I was looking at had electronic traction control as standard feature - the Chevy did not. But I could not find color and price to match the Suburban. Best I could do on YukonXL was $400 over invoice after a $500 conquest rebate and before $3000 rebate or other discounts and cash. So with the Chevy I got the color I wanted plus XM radio for $900 less than YukonXL -but did give up the traction control. I would have gone with the GMC had things been more equal.

shieatt

Picked up our brand new Suburban WITH Autoride and every other available option (less the sunroof since couldn't get it with RSE) to replace the one we got last week. This one is perfect - perfect paint, clean, just like a new car should be. The other one was dark grey, this one is redfire, which I like much better, especially since the door moldings and fender flares are color-keyed on the red one instead of unpainted black plastic on the grey one (didn't really notice this before, but apparently they don't paint the moldings/flares on the "dark" colors - black, dark grey and blue). We are extremely happy with the new truck and very impressed with our dealer for replacing the first one.

joebas

Congratulations, that was awesome that the Dealer did that for you. I have mine now for about 5 weeks, with 1300 miles on it. The autoride is awesome and it's just a sweet looking SUV.

4burb

It looks like you might not have even had and LT with the wrong badges but an LS. My LT, no autoride, is dark gray and the front bumper top, door handles, flares, and side molding are painted to match. I know they are black on all LS models but also lack and blue LTs. Either way, glad your dealership took care of you and you got the one you want. My sister has a redfire burb and it is beautiful.

glsable

4burb: that is an interesting thought. If they can put the wrong LT/Autoride badge on in place of an LT badge, then they could also put an LT badge on an LS!
[Side bar: I think I have figured out that you can tell at a glance a 2002 LS from a 2003 LS by the LS badges on the '02 that are not on an '03]
[Side bar 2: I think you can also tell an '02 LT from an '03 LT since the '02s did not have the color-matching side mouldings?]

It is interesting to note that you can option up an LS to essentially be an LT (I think this only works if you get front buckets and DVD RSE options, which is how you get auto temp controls and rear seat audio controls on an LS). The only things you don't get are heated front seats, power folding mirrors, front seat power lumbar and power recline. But you save $1500 by my calculation on chevy.com's "price it".