GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • jonrossjonross Member Posts: 2
    I just signed up to this site, and I have the same exact problem with my 2003 XL Denali. Sometimes the wipers work fine, and then all of a sudden they will run on low speed when I clean the windows or put them on intermittent. I found a place to buy just the motor cover with the circuit board built in for $71 and am going to buy it and try that first. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
    Here's the link: tnbr=88958136

    The website is
  • 2005denali2005denali Member Posts: 1
    We turn the key and dash lights up, gauges move, chime sounds, etc. Everything normal but starter does nothing. Sometimes happens a couple times in a day, sometimes goes weeks without a problem. It will eventually start when it wants to. Nothing we do consistently causes it to start. Shifting in and out of drive/neutral/park, trying different key, and just about anything else does not help. Eventually we get lucky and it will just start. Sometimes it takes two or three key turns, and sometimes we fight with it for a 45 minutes to get it to start. It's been to the dealer a couple of times but they say they can't fix it unless it does it while they have it, and just our luck, it works fine while they have it. The dealer has checked everything they can think of and there are no diagnostic codes. Any ideas???
  • denali44denali44 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 2005 Yukon Denali and I have the exact same problem you are describing. Have you had any luck with a solution?
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    Have you checked the ignition switch, and the mechanism between the key cylinder to the switch?
  • jonrossjonross Member Posts: 2
    There is a known problem with the circuit board that is on the end of the wiper motor. It just decides to work intermittently. The only solution I have found so far is to go to and you can get just the end end cap of the wiper motor which contains the circuit board for about $70. I haven't had a chance to do it yet but it should be easy if you do it yourself.
  • fixitrodfixitrod Member Posts: 67
    The ignition switch is certainly a good start but also check the Body Control Module. I have had some recent problems with instrument panel lighting and it has come back that this module controls a lot of functions. It seems to be the PCM of the multifunction array of controls , switches, etc.. Also for you and anyone else there is a fella goes by the name of "Blue Gorilla" on where I have gotten some terrific help
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    I don't get that site. I get great answers all over the net for free on forums like this one. Plus there's Edmunds Answers as well for car questions that attracts a different crowd than forum users.

    I also don't get people paying for Consumer Reports to give them invoice prices when all that info is here free too. :confuse:
  • 999antccb999antccb Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem and my mechanic got the Windshield Motor cover with the circuit board from the dealer. It cost more, about $150.00, but time was of the essence. It was a rainy week. Got it installed and everything ran about $205.00.
  • jtm2004jtm2004 Member Posts: 2
    Considering an '09 Denali purchase and noticed that the AWD transmission does not come with a 4 wheel low gear type option as the other yukon and tahoe models. Am I correct in this or am I missing something. I've found myself needing the 4 low option a few times a year in deep snow. Does the Denali AWD system automatically gear down when added traction is needed or should I be looking at another vehicle?
  • speedylacispeedylaci Member Posts: 3
    Here In Canada 2500+tax 13%
    Unfurtunatly i had my 01 denali towed in today because my trany is gone..but hey s...happens i still love my denali regardles what happened today :) (Until now served me good) :sick:
  • jamiebenthusenjamiebenthusen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 YUKON Xl. I am hearing a cllicking in the right rear. I pulled back the plastic and there is a silver box with 3 plugs in it. When I remove the first one the clicking stops but I have no idea what that controls so I plugged it back in.

    any idea what that stuff is for?

    Thank you,

  • rkg1rkg1 Member Posts: 13
    Our 2003 Yukon XL center row, middle seat seatbelt (over the shoulder/lap belt combo) frequently locks up. When it does, we are unable to use it. Our only option has been bringing it into the dealer to fix.

    Anyone have any suggestions on how we can fix it ourselves or to prevent it from happening???
  • rshtrsht Member Posts: 277
    The on board computer/sensors for the AWD system keep the vehicle moving froward via the wheel(s) with traction without the need for manual intervention; a combination of this system and the manual shift mode (although some call it the Tow-Haul mode) to keep the transmission in low gear on your Denali's shifter (i.e. M1, M2...), would that achieve what you need?
    Personally, I would prefer the AWD system on the Denali over those on the Yukon/Tahoe with manual switch/mode, although you have the ability to select which mode to drive in, no way that will respond faster than of the AWD system; especially if don't do any off-road driving. But, if you were actually thinking of a Locking Differential to work with the 4x4 Low Gear for off-road conditions, then you YES the AWD system may not be what you want... I am no sale person, I live pretty far North of Illinois, so far my 07 Denali has not disappointed once in deep snow conditions, I am glad that I have the Denali over the Yukon/Tahoe. I hope you would too soon.
    Best Wish!
  • jbaumgartnerjbaumgartner Member Posts: 2
    My yukon xl slt is a 2003 model and now has 128,000 miles. My wife has suggested several times that I replace it as it was her primary driver for 5 years and after 3 Yukon/Suburbans she decided to take over driving our newest car. I've preferred driving the truck for many years so I jumped at the chance to drive the Yukon whenever I liked. My daily drive is 65 miles RT so I need dependable transportation and the Yukon has been a great choice. The vehicle was bought new here in the Metroplex and we've done the maintenance on it every 3500 miles. New tires/hoses/belts whenever needed. Problems began after the odometer passed 100k miles. First, it was the transmission @100k that needed replacing. Next, the brakes finally needed replacement at 120k miles, and then came a low level vibrating humming noise from the drive train while decelerating. After several weeks, I took it to my local Firestone store where they declared the problem to be wheel bearings (replaced), then water pump (replaced) and $1200 later, the humming noise was still there. Frustrated, I took it back to them and they now said that the problem was the U joints which they offered to fix for a 50% discount. That did fix the problem and I'm now back to being a happy Yukon driver. As I mentioned earlier, this is my 3rd yukon and I don't want to replace it until it is a little older. What kinds of problems should I anticipate up to 200k? Anyone, have experiences they are willing to share?
  • fourx4xtcfourx4xtc Member Posts: 2
    I ran my 2003 Yukon XL 2500 8.1L w 58000 miles completely out of gas but when I put gas back in it I could not get it started. I had the fuel filter replaced and it still would not start. I am being told that my fuel pump is out but there are issues with this. Any time I call to get a price on the fuel pump they ask me if it is the rear or front tank? as far as I knew I only have one very large tank 37.5 gallons. So how do I know which tank if I do have a rear and front? The next question is I am hoping it is not the pump because the truck ran fine before, is there anything else it could be that is cheaper? I am really anxious to get some advise on this issue. I am a single women and I have a boat I need to tow along with a trailer and quads plus I am moving and need my truck for moving so this is something I need to get fixed asap. I would really appreciate any input. thank you :cry:
  • fourx4xtcfourx4xtc Member Posts: 2
    I have the same truck with a 8.1 496 motor, which I would have known you were looking, this truck would have been perfect for you. The only problem I did have was the ac went out and I only have 58000 miles on my truck. so I spent the $1500 and had a new ac unit installed. I am not sure if your ac in not blowing cold but if that is the case most likely the unit is going bad. When mine went out the air got warmer and warmer.
  • f15rotorf15rotor Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to remove the front turn signal housing. Mine is getting water into it and burning out the bulbs. It has also corroded the lamp holder. I can replace the pig tail but would like to repair the housing so that it won;t let water in. Thanks
  • 4burb4burb Member Posts: 55
    I have a 2002 suburban and though the fronts are a little different it may work about the same but not sure. That being said, on the sub the light assembly just pulls forward and out. No need to open hood or unscrew anything. I just grab it securely on the outside end and pull. It pulls loose from a clip and then slides out of the inner side. Pop out the bulb, replace and reverse removal.
    Hope it helps...
  • bchez2010bchez2010 Member Posts: 1
    Hello...I'm with out answers myself. Picked up my daughter for softball practice opened the back door truck was loaded. She forgot her helmet so instead of opening the whole door we opened the top hatch (glass) and yep the hinge came a part on the right side where the glass is attached. Actually it's barely holding on right now. We have no clue what to do. I've found one GM recall for my year and make model 2003, it states specifically in the recall notice it's for hinges on the left door. Surely this is a factory defect. You can actually see the metal pulling/ripping away from the body of the vehicle. That's not normal when you don't use the door on a daily basis. Did you get anywhere with the dealer or find a solution. I have been searching and have not found anything. We had a friend who is a welder take a look at the issue and he stated that we should take it into the dealer and have them take a look at it that's not normal. He even stated that it's very dangerous that until we get it fixed to not have the windows open in the front because it will create pressure and it will pop the window out in back. Great that's all I need. :confuse:
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Bchez2010,
    I am from GM Customer Service. You had stated that you found a recall; if the recall pertains your vehicle then the dealership will fix it for free. I can check for you if you do have a recall on your vehicle or not. Please email me so I can look into this situation further. You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • dissapointed11dissapointed11 Member Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    Hi I am having the same problem with my 2002 yukon the right plastic that holds the hinge just cracked I cannot beleive the rear glass is only held on the car with plastic I called around and the only way to fix it is to replace the whole thing and for $800.00 I called gmc and they told me I have to take it in to service and that would be $108.00 then what if its not covered or not deemed to be a defect I will have to fix it for the $800.00 There is a deffinate problem with the part How can a window be held on with plastic that can just crack if you could help it would be very nice
    I love my yukon but gmc shold do good faith repairs since this is a problem :mad: :(
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Dissapointed11,
    It looks like you have already spoken to our customer assistance team and what they told you would be correct. We would need you to get your vehicle into the dealer for diagnosis before anything can be considered. Could you please private message me your case number from the agent you spoke to so I can take a look at it? You can get my email by clicking on my name. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • mslimanmsliman Member Posts: 4
    I read you post on Edmunds reguardnig the dead battery problem on your 2003 suburban. Do you recall which relay was replaced. I am having a similar problem with my 2005 GMC Yukon XL
  • mag44mag44 Member Posts: 32
    I had an issue with my rear levelers shocks on a 2002 GMC Denali XL, replaced them and they are working great. I am still getting the "Service Suspension" error message on the dash. Hooked up the code reader and there are no errors displayed. Anyone have any ideas on how to clear the Message Center display?

    Thanks in advance.
  • mmorris414mmorris414 Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I was driving my 2006 Yukon XL and the "Service Stability" message came on (for a split second) then disappeared. It never came on again while driving home. I am going on a long trip in 3 day., Is this something I should worry about? Can it wait until I return from my trip? What does this error message mean? I have never seen it before in ANY car I have ever owned. Please, any response would help out....
    Thank you in advance.
  • mmorris414mmorris414 Member Posts: 2
    try stepping on the brake 3 times quickly (don't start the engine but have the ignition on so everything else is working) See if that works, good luck!
  • denhali_03denhali_03 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 Yukon XL Denhali it has 102,000 miles on it and just this passed oil change in a matter of 6000 miles it burned through 4 Quarts of oil. It is not leaving any spots in my garage. it not smoking at all. the tail pipe has black soot in it. But it is running great. What could be the cause of burning oil?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Member Posts: 4,252
    Hello Mmorris414,
    You can do what Mag44 suggested in resetting the error message. If you still are leery about your trip you can take it in and have the code read to see if there is anything that needs servicing before you leave. Thank you,
    Mariah GM Customer Service
  • industrialmanindustrialman Member Posts: 1
    Just returned home from local mechanic, and he said that the issue might be the fuel pump, however, I had that replaced 18 months ago. They replaced the fuel filter, and tested, still the same. So now my fuel mileage is @ 6.8 mpg. They also replaced some of the O2 sensors. Any ideas on what it could be.

    Appreciate your time in this matter.
  • leverett6leverett6 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    We have a 2000 Yukon and when it is hot out side it will not crank on the first try, then the second try I have to push the gas peddle all the way to the floor then it will crank, but at that time i have to continue to hold the gas in or it want idle, but when it is cold it does not do this, sounds alot like the same problem that you were having. Did you find the source to the problem?
  • folsomg10folsomg10 Member Posts: 1
    I have this problem, new to site, cannot figure out how to get to the messages you state in your post " I have answered many questions on this "air temperature sensor" in a variety of messages on the "Chevy Tahoe (SUV)" board in messages #'s between 5563 - 5608.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 194,200
    edited June 2011
    Start reading here: Chevy Tahoe

    circutmann replies to this post a few posts down from this one..


    Edmunds Price Checker
    Edmunds Lease Calculator
    Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!

    Edmunds Moderator

  • kckpm1kckpm1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 05 Denali XL, My check ride control light came on cost me $1800.00. Burnt up compressor and two $600 air shocks.

    Mad at my Denali
  • 2bzmom2bzmom Member Posts: 1
    Our 2008 Yukon XL 4WD also had this problem and it was "fixed" a few months ago. Now, the warranty is just a couple of months over 3 years and the mileage is just over 36,000 and the front passenger door lock is doing the same thing. The only way it will lock or unlock is to manually push/lift the lock. Is there a recall for this because I really don't want to pay for what is an obvious problem on the manufacturer's end of things.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    I see that you have recently had your door locks repaired, and that you are starting to experience this again. Can we look into this further for you? Please send us an email with more information, including: your name/username and contact information (phone and address), the last 8 digits of your VIN and current mileage, the name of your involved dealership and a description of the times you've been in for this specific concern (lock/unlock problems). This will help us look into your vehicle's information for you to see if there are any open recalls, and to get a Customer Assistance Case established for you.

    GM Customer Service
  • cjewettcjewett Member Posts: 1
    should of just went after market on those parts and saved over 1000 dollars...... thats just me though. I see it all the time that people take their cars to the dealers and they get sucked dry.
  • kutndrykutndry Member Posts: 2
    My rear door locks on my truck will NOT LOCK using the key fob(the front DOES), but they WILL UNLOCK with the key fob, but will not lock when engaging the gear shift or key fob. I have to manually push the lock buttons down on the rear doors before I hit the lock button on the key fob. NOt sure if this is part of a recall I saw about 2006 and 2007 Gm vehicles having electrical problems with the door locks and windows. The Yukon was NOT on the list, but hoping this is an easy and CHEAP fix! I have seen posts of bad "actuators" but not sure that is my problem being that they do work with the key fob and button on the drivers door to UNLOCK. Anyone have simular problems this way? Love my truck, she's got 74,000 on her, hope she can go another 74K!

    BTW- I had the oil consumption problem and my dealer went WAY up and above what I see folks here got to do the repair. Whole upper half of engine I think was practically replaced! I love my service manager at my dealer for being so patient and working so hard to help fix the problem. I feel very confident in my dealership's service!
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Member Posts: 1,964
    Hello kutndry,

    We're glad to hear that you've had such a positive experience with your dealership thus far! Given the description of your door lock concern, it may be more of a problem with your actual key fob (although please don't consider this an official GM diagnosis as we rely upon our service departments for this).

    Let us know if you would like for us to check into anything for you! We can be reached at [email protected]

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • wpkendigwpkendig Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased this truck used last month from a VW dealership and want to take care of it as best I can. It has 70,000 miles on it and came without any service history. I want to use synthetic oil and a good filter to try and get the most mileage out of the engine. From what I can tell it looks like the Delco PF48 is the default oil filter. Some threads on other sites state that the PF63 will also work and gives a little added filter surface area. The bypass pressure spec is slightly different but is it going to make any difference in combination with a synthetic oil? I like the idea of a larger capacity filter when stretching oil changes beyond the normal 3,000 miles as with conventional motor oil. I'm leaning towards using the Purolator PureONE PL22500 which crosses to the Delco PF63 and from reading online, has great construction and filtration. Thanks for any input.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,457
    edited November 2012
    3,000 mile oil changes haven't been normal for twenty years.

    The factory recommended oil change for the 2008 Yukon Denali is every 10,000 miles. (link)
Sign In or Register to comment.