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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    The "benefit" has a name: it's call decontenting. It saves money for the manufacturer on stuff they hope you don't miss.
  • My wife and I are about to purchase a 2005 Denali XL. She really likes the 20" rims and we understand that the size change changes the overall size of the tires. Can anyone tell me the pros and cons of going from 17" to 20"? The factory will handle the speed and gear changes that accompany the size change, but I'm talking about comfort and performance for everyday driving and/or if we end up pulling a trailer, which is a possibility. Thanks.

  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    Others will correct me if I'm wrong about this, but generally what happens as the wheels get bigger is that the tire sidewall height gets smaller. In other words, the outside diameter of the tire remains almost the same though the wheels themselves are bigger. This avoids the necessity for the sort of speed/odometer adjustments you mention.

    Now, pretty obviously, as the tire sidewalls decrease in size, the cushion that a tire provides gets smaller too. That will translate into a possibly more responsive but definitely rougher ride. Obviously many people have not had a problem with that or don't notice the loss of cushiness at all. Or maybe they simply agree with Billy Crystal's SNL Fernando character that, "Looking good is much, much better than feeling good!" ;-)

    Is the difference enough to bother you? I cannot say. I would suggest trying to find a DXL with the larger wheels to test drive.
  • dxccp140dxccp140 Posts: 6
    Anyone know or have an idea how to remove paint from the leather seats. My wife is going to kill me!
  • dilbertzzzdilbertzzz Posts: 190
    If no one can help, check with a car detailer. If they can't help, then consider having the seat(s) recovered by an automotive upholsterer. It will undoubtedly be cheaper than a divorce and much more pleasant than death! ;)
  • dxccp140dxccp140 Posts: 6
    that's for sure.....thank you will try both.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I assume you're referring to the factory 20" wheel/tire options, no? In any case, read on:

    Pros--looks sharper (subjectively speaking) than 17", slightly-wider track due to wider tire--typically, any larger-than-17" diamater tire you're gonna go with is probably gonna be wider; how much wider may vary depending on which diameter you go with; possibly better tire grip and/or performance, depending on what kind of brand/type tire you go with.

    Cons--20" tires will cost more than 17" ones (duh), ride comfort may diminish (I say "may" because this seems to be fairly subjective among different folks), unsprung wheel weight will be greater (not by much, but it will), thus possibly leading to increased braking distances.

    Depending on which tire size you go with on the 20", there may or may not be a overall (circumference-wise) change in size which might require a speed and/or gear reprogramming. FWIW--I'm running 305-40-22 on my DXL, a size which is practically spot-on the same circumference as the factory 265-70-17, thus requiring no speedometer/gearing adjustment. Yes the ride is a little bit rougher, but tolerable (for me)...but I knew that before deciding to upgrade to 22's...and the looks from going up in size far outweighed the detriments. ;-)
  • alan16alan16 Posts: 1
    I purchased from NAPA a new electric brake controller for my 2003 Yukon XL. The installation instructions require installing two wires from the battery plus making connections to the wire on the pedal stoplight switch and to the wire going to the trailer connector at the rear bumper. When looking under the instrument panel for these wires (without any success), I found a 6 pin receptacle in a box that is labeled trailer. I also noted in my owner's manual that I can buy from my dealer a "jumper harness w/ trailer battery feed fuse". I'm wondering if possibly this jumper harness would be one that I could hook up to my controller and then plug into this receptacle? W :confuse: ould that also eliminate the need to run wires through the firewall from the battery? Any help or comments that would point me in the right direction would be greatly appreciated. I'm supposed to be towing my trailer on Tuesday. Thank you in advance. - Alan
  • Alan, My 2001 Yukon XL came w/ the trailer wiring harnes that you describe. I understand that GM may have stopped including that harness as standard equipment, & may have to be purchased at the dealer or on line @ GM Parts Direct.

    That is all you will need, ....NO OTHER WIRING IS REQUIRED. No holes in the firewall at all. Couldn't be any easier unless GM offered the Brake Controller installed as an option. Good luck,. hope this reaches you in time. Dave
  • taa674taa674 Posts: 1
    This is an easy fix. I have worked for a GM dealer for many years. GM has a simple reprogramming of the computer that will eliminate this problem. Sounds strange, but it works perfectly. Have a dealer search for technical service bulletins and they will be able to pull it up.
  • smart1smart1 Posts: 1
    i can help you with that, but i am in tx
  • I have a 2002 Sub with the 8.1.
    Around town I get 11-12 mpg.
    I once got 15 on the highway, but I was really trying!
    Towing my 6,000 trailer is around 8 or 9.
    The 5.3 would do the job.
    With the 8.1, you won't even know it's back there!

    Mileage is the only reason you would regret the big block.
    Other than that, I love it.
  • I have had both.
    It is purely a matter of trim and options.
    I think you have a litle more control of the options when you go Chevy.
  • gmc4megmc4me Posts: 6
    About to buy a 2005 Yukon Denali XL (NAV-SUN-DVD-XM). No financing price will be $46,560. For 0% financing (36 months) price is $49,376. Both do not include tax and tags. Sound good for Philadelphia??

    Anyway, wife likes bench seats for 2nd row (we have a 1yr old, a dog and 2nd kid on the way).
    whereas I like the captain seats. Advice is very welcomed.

    Also, summit white or silver brich? Both have bench. A black one with captain seats is avalable, that i want to get. help talk me out of the black.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    I prefer the 2nd row bench too (just makes it seem roomier in my opinion). The captains seats are nice, I guess, and can be reclined, but overall you can get more use out of the middle bench and have more stretch out room on it.

    As to color, we used to have a '02 Avalanche that was Onyx Black, and while beautiful most of the time, having the cladding was its saving grace, since it ment less black to care for. We traded that truck for a '04 Suburban, which technically has more exterior surface area to care for, so Summit White was the choice this time and we haven't looked back.

    On the Denali, black is, by far, the absolute best looking choice but only when it is cared for often and properly (i.e. no car washes and frequent, careful polishing and waxing). Since I prefer the middle bench, and white or silver are your choices there, I'd probably go with the Silver Birch. While probably the most common, it is only second in line to the black in terms of good looks, plus still maintains the best benefits of silver (or any light color): doesn't absorb excess heat, doesn't show scratching nearly like a dark shade, and just looks clean and classy when cared for correctly. The Summit White is nice too, but on something flashier like the Denali, I think something with metallic in it looks best.

    Then again, white can be even classier then the all too common Silver, so I guess it's a toss-up for me! :confuse:

    Good luck!
  • gmc4megmc4me Posts: 6
    Thanks you your input Beach.

    Does anyone have any experience with an after market rear assitance device added to their SUV? They said they can have it install for 375. (just beeps) or video for 650.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    See my reply regarding your bench vs. chair dilemma in the other forum you posted your query in...

    As far as your question regarding rear assistance devices--here's my simple take on the pros and cons of both types:

    Sensor: Pros--cheaper than most camera solutions; gives you a relatively more definitive indication of how close you really are to an object. Cons--can't SEE EXACTLY what's back there; most likely will require drilling holes to install sensors; susceptible to interference which may impair its accuracy (rain, etc.--not often but it can happen).

    Backup camera: Pros--you can actually see exactly what's in view of the camera; no signal interference (unless you consider putting a tape over the lens "interference"). Cons--even the cheapest backup camera solution is more expensive than all but the most reliable backup sensor kits (microwave; infrared and ultrasonic are relatively less reliable/accurate than microwave, with ultrasonic being above infrared); not really effective in low/no-light conditions unless you either have a light mounted in back that puts out enough ambient light to light up the area surrounding the camera, or a camera which includes multiple LEDs for nightvision; won't help you determine EXACTLY how close you are to an object (due to the optics used in most inexpensive backup cameras); depending on viewing angle of camera, you may not be able to view objects on the extreme outer edges (i.e., rear corners).

    Me--I went with the backup camera solution in part because it was a "fancier" solution than backup I didn't need to drill a single hole in order to install the camera on my DXL. I must admit that my backup camera solution cost more than the $650 you were quoted...if only because I have my backup camera hooked up to a Pioneer AVH-P6500DVD head unit--the backup camera itself (w/ billet mount) cost $199.

    Pic of backup camera attached to opening right above hitch receptacle:

    Pic of AVH-P6500DVD showing backup camera in action:
  • gmc4megmc4me Posts: 6
    The installer said the camera would go in the trailer hitch so you wouldn't even know it was there.
    They would then install a small lcd by th rearview mirror. not sure i like the sounds of that.
  • kleinckleinc Posts: 13
    I'm looking to buy also and have a question on the gas mileage difference on the 4x4 with the 4.1 gear ratio compared to the 3.73? Anyone know the answer? I'm trying to decide to buy off the lot or order one without the 4.1 since most 4x4 on the lots come with the 4.1.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I have a 2001 Denali XL, so I cannot directly answer your question. I can tell you that when I was test driving these vehicles, there was a noticible performance difference between a Yukon XL/Suburban with the 5.3 engine and the 4.1 axle vs the 3.73 axle. If I had not purchased the Denali XL, I would have gotten the 5.3 with the 4.1 axle.
  • rand01rand01 Posts: 75
    I have ordered the 4.10 gear set on both of my last 4wd Suburbans with the 5.3 engine and wouldn't have it any other way. Performance is worth any decrease in mileage, plus you can go to a slightly taller tire without totally killing the performance. I don't keep that close of tabs on mileage but 16 or 17 is about the best I can remember getting cruising at 70 down the highway.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Hmmm, I guess GM must have changed the ratio of 4x4s w/ 4.10 vs. 3.73; my '03 YXL 5.3 came with the 3.73--standard, IIRC. As others pointed out, you will gain some performance at the sacrifice of some fuel economy; however, ask yourself this--do you really need that small gain in performance that a 4.10 offers? Or, do you plan on towing quite a bit? If the answer to either or both is no, then you definitely wouldn't be worse off getting the 3.73. I've never driven a GM truck/SUV w/ the 4.10 so I can't honestly compare between that and the 3.73 but FWIW, the 3.73/5.3L combo was good enough for my needs.

    Of course, now that I drive a DXL, that combo feels like it has the power of an econocar... ;)
  • rand01rand01 Posts: 75
    No Tony, I think the majority of those 4wds on the lot will still have the 3.73 gears from the factory, at least all the ones that I have seen the sticker on. I had to special order the 4.10 on my last two Suburbans.
  • kleinckleinc Posts: 13
    The 4.10 is still a option($100). Most of the dealers add it on in their orders, thus the ones I have looked at have it already. My major concern was whether there would be a significant loss is gas mileage. I have a 97 trooper right now so performance isn't as big an issue. I only get 13-14 on good days with the trooper so any increase in gas mileage is bonus. I plan on keeping the yukon xl for eight years or so also and don't want to kick myself later for not getting an option that's important. I'll go test drive this weekend. thanks for your comments, have a great weekend.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I did test drive both back in 2001. The 3.73 definitely was slower. There was a "flat spot" where the 3.73 felt like it was short on power. This was not felt with the 4.10. It was noticible. I could tell which axle was in the vehicle after a test drive without looking at the sticker.
  • beach15beach15 Posts: 1,305
    We've had the 3.73 on both our '02 Av and now the '04 Suburban and I'm familiar with this "flat spot" too. They both feel very powerful from a stop, but then as you reach normal speed (50-60), it's like it just fully runs out of steam. I know it isn't technically, but it's an annoyance I wish wasn't there.

    It would have been nice if either of these trucks has the 4.10, but with us buying moderately optioned 2wd models, it doesn't seem like a common add-on for dealers to choose.
  • kleinckleinc Posts: 13
    Is there anyone out there that could give me a gas mileage average for 5300 v-8 and the 4.10 rear end? I have the figures for the 3.73. Right now I'm leaning to get the 4.1 off the lot and not hassle with the ordering process.
  • I recently bought a 2005 Yukon Denali. I heard that there is an adaptor for the NAV system that will allow regular DVD movies to play. Has anyone else heard of this?
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I assume you saw the response in the other thread you posted in; I just want to add that, in case you weren't aware, you still would need to cough up a separate DVD player in order to watch a DVD movie on your nav screen w/ the adapter.
  • chloe5chloe5 Posts: 1
    Did you every find out what was wrong? I purchased the same vehicle two weeks ago. I just got it out on the highway and 40 miles later found it to be doing the exact same thing you are describing. I only have two weeks left on the warranty. I do have a transmission cooler and it only got up to 150. Help. :confuse:
  • kleinckleinc Posts: 13
    I bought a white 4x4 xl with the 4.10 off the lot. The 4x4 actually come stock with a 3.43 for 2005. There didn't seem to be a noticeable decrease in the gas mileage and it does drive nicer. thanks for all your input. I need bigger tires now and side steps. I don't like the factory ones.
  • dobrodandobrodan Posts: 1
    I realize that this thread is pretty old, but my experience may help someone else with this problem. I also had a strong mildew smell from the rear AC in my '03 Yukon XL. Since I had the same problem with my '96 Suburban I suspected the problem was a leak in the AC condensation resevoir. I removed the cowl to inspect the unit and discovered that it was leaking and the carpet and pad were wet all the way to the front seats. The carpet has a rubber backing so it was dry on the top surface. I have now removed the entire interior except for the front seats and console. The seal at the bottom of the AC unit where the refrigerant lines exit was faulty - a poor design, even worse execution. In Detroit water must run uphill because the seal is lower than the drain for the unit - which was not blocked - and water was leaking under the carpet for who knows how long. I recommend that you ckeck the drain for the unit (a little rubber tube near the refrigerant lines behind the back wheel) to be sure it is clear. I am going to seal the entire unit and cut the end of the rubber drain to keep it running freely. Hope this helps someone.
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
    will the 07 models come with deisel engines
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    It's a bit like predicting the weather, unless someone has seen an announcement. Try the Diesels in the News discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • arkitectarkitect Posts: 75
  • gapjs40gapjs40 Posts: 6

    We recently bought a 2002 Yukon XL and are having the knocking problem. Do you have an address I can use to try to get GM to fess up and correct the problem?
  • Good luck.

    I have the same year Chevy Sub with the 8.1 engine that knocks for a minute or so.
    I knew it when I bought it, but I 'needed' the vehicle.

    I think the best you might get is an extended warranty, IF your original warranty is still in effect. Most people agree that while it sounds bad, the vehicle will still give you reliable service for 100,000+ miles. I don't believe they have ever 'fixed' the design problem. The pistons are so short that a small variance ( undersize ) in the diameter can make all the difference. They can't make them taller, because the crankshaft is in the way. This is just what I have read. I have not actually pulled one apart... yet.

    I hate to hear it, but I will just run it until I can justify a rebuild. Then, I will make sure that the replacement pistons are matched to the cylinder bores.
  • surfn69surfn69 Posts: 2
    I know what you mean, I wold be nice if we could connect a regular cell phone not to the on star, but to the speakers and mic in the car.

    Then we can use our voice activated cell phones with the vehicles hand free and comm with the mic and speakers of the car while using our cell phones.

    somebody knows how to do this?
  • surfn69surfn69 Posts: 2
    I have an 8.1 avalanche and it knocks since new, at the dealer they turn on a 0 miles one and it did the same thing.

    Just step on it, it will knock for 130k miles with no problem
  • bjs77bjs77 Posts: 2
    I just changed tire sizes and need to recalibrate the speedo/odo. Any suggestions for which one I should get? I saw a web site for one where there were like 5 preset programs, (performance, towing, fuel economy,...). I was also wondering why Hypertec has a specific model (30019) for the '03 5.3 when other companies don't. Thanks for your help.
  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    tried to do a search for this on Edmunds.... zippo..

    would like to know if anyone has #'s.. in %... on the amount of Employee discount given on Yukon XL and Chevy Suburban..

    are the dealers playing games with the discount like they try to do with the incentives knocking the rebate/incentive off the MSRP rather than off the negotiated price .. then taking the rebates/incentives and minusing the employee discount like it should be done....

    I just went to the GM site... their #'s are w/o negotiating price from dealer..

    any help appreciated.. :)
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Ask/look over in GMC Yukon XL: Prices Paid & Buying Experience too.

    Steve, Host
  • gh1961gh1961 Posts: 30
    Did you ever find out what the problema was? My ’01 XL does the same exact thing. Thought maybe it was a vacuum leak, bad firmware, or maybe the latest recall from GM re fuel pump. Wanted to email you but link is not available. Mine is though. Please respond.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    It's a feature of our software; if you refresh your browser after posting, you'll get a duplicate post. The only way to avoid it is to use the recent messages link or go elsewhere in the forums and then return to see if you have any replies.

    But often you won't know you've reposted if you time out while trying to post. No biggie, people can skip over dupes easily enough and the hosts delete the extras when we see them.

    Steve, Host
  • gh1961gh1961 Posts: 30
    thanx Steve. The only hit I had on "idle" search was the older one I replied to. Any ideas for a better search?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Try the Idle or Stalling Problems - All Vehicles discussion.

    Steve, Host
  • gh1961gh1961 Posts: 30
    THANX 2X
  • Just picked up a new one with all the bells and whistles and the 20"s! Returning from an 01 Yukon, WOW what a difference. Just as a warning if anyone goes with the Smartbuy, they wait until the end to tell you that it does not include GAP insurance like a lease. Its not a big deal in cost, but it will increase your payment if you choose to get it.

    Anyone dealing with the reverse object warning...this vehicle is huge and hard to see backing up. The employee discount is for real and they are taking all GM coupons, cash back rebates, and GM card points with bonuses! It's a great opportunity before the new models come out!

    Good Luck!

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