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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • As indicated by "ahightower" I have answered many questions on this "air temperature sensor" in a variety of messages on the "Chevy Tahoe (SUV)" board in messages #'s between 5563 - 5608. Rather than repeat everything again, check those out first. If you still have any questions, just ask on either board, as I read both. You are correct that it is a small fan & is part of the automatic climate control system.

    My truck is a 01 YXL. If your truck is still within 3 yrs / 36K, you should be covered by warranty.

    Good Luck,
  • yukeyuke Posts: 3
    I've found a place that has great prices. Molded or flat pieces.

    Nice people and great prices.
  • yukeyuke Posts: 3
    This is the one I prefer ( link below ). Vizualogic makes a monitor ( color choices to match your trim ) that will affix to the inside windshield trim just to the right of the rear view mirror that looks great or there are many options for the monitor. I like this camera because the height will give you a better view and it's out of the way of the rear bumper stuff.

  • We have a 2002 Yukon XL we bought new and has given us problems since day one. First it was the brakes which would grab on one side intermittently and cause the front to shimmy and shake right up through the steering wheel. Then the air conditioner wouldn't cool when stopped at a light or parked idling unless you revved the engine. Then one of the white daytime running lights burnt out (it seems two out of three you meet on the road are also burnt out. Now in the last couple months we've had to spend over $2,000. first on a new air conditioner compressor which just blew apart and then an entire new rear hatch/door because one of the hinges broke and the door almost fell off into traffic. This car has never been in a wreck and always kept in the garage. Anyone else have these probs? :lemon:
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Isn't the Beast handsome when it's all clean and shiny? Black is a pain to keep clean, but it sure looks good when it is! I've found that Mr. Clean Auto-Dry does work very well as long as you don't let it dry before that final rinse, and have a fresh filter cartridge. I got some inexpensive leather wipes that tend to leave the seats kind of shiny and squeaky, without really getting all the dirt out. I think I will go and buy some of the Maguiar's stuff and see if that is better.

    About 4,000 miles on the clock and we are still very happy. Gas mileage has improved from the high 15's to the high 17's. I guess the engine has broken in, and also we are driving judiciously and keep the tires at 33-34 psi. Going to San Antonio in a few weeks, looking forward to another road trip. Oil life monitor says we have 50% left, how cool is that! That's like a free tank of gas every 3,000 miles that I won't change the oil! Automatic climate control and power adjustable pedals are very cool too. And it handles very well for its size. This is my favorite vehicle I have owned so far, much more enjoyable than the minivan it replaced.

  • Hi,

    Well, that a whole new bunch of problems we haven't had, knock on wood. We have problems with the knocking sound when you start the engine, stalling at odd times, oil use about a quart per month, and a grinding sound when you turn left or right and a high pitched sound that I can't identify but sounds like power steering but isn't. Has that made your day? I love the SUV but get no help from GMC. Nice polite replies though. Have you had any of our problems?
  • My 04 Yukon XL (which I really like) is behaving badly... When I take my foot off the gas pedal to press the brake it suddenly just revvs up like someone has slammed the gas to the floor. It's happened a few times - almost got me into a couple of accidents (had to stand on the brakes to stop!!) - and when I took it to the dealer they hooked it up to their computer and said that it showed nothing wrong. "No code problems..."

    My wife won't ride in it anymore... Is this happening to anyone else??
  • I have regular yukon and want to make it look like an denali yukon EXactly what parts do I need thanks
  • Has anyone had transmission problems with their 2002 Yukon? I've burned 2 transmission! one at 35k and another at 77K. I dropped it off at the dealer and I figure it's worth a fight to get them to replace it. I don't think I have much of a chance. Are there any resources out there to help me out. I figure it will cost around 3K or so.
  • I have the same problem in starting, it cranks but is hard to start, then smells flooded. It starts fine in the morning when cold. 2000 Yukon XL, 97,000 miles.

    Please let me know what was causing your problem. The GMC place can't find my problem.

    Vernis Stanaland
    Tyler, Texas
  • We have a 2005 YXL with captains chairs front and middle (room for 4).
    We have the 3rd row rear bench seat that is either up or down. Unfortunately, with 5 passengers, we can't have the seat down when we need more space in the rear.

    Does anyone know of an aftermarket conversion that will allow a Split 3rd row seat in the XL? The Yukon has the split seat option for the 3rd row, why not the Yukon XL?

  • eml56eml56 Posts: 1
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Assuming that you're talking about the '01+ generation Yukon, here's a non-inclusive list:

    -Replace entire front bumper assembly
    -Replace front grill
    -Replace side lower assist steps
    -Replace rear bumper
    -Replace chrome side door moldings with color-keyed Denali one
    -Replace headlight/front turn signal/foglight housings (and appropriate bulbs as well--e.g., Denali low beam uses 9005 instead of 9006)
    -Add Denali front/rear mud flap moldings (they're not really mud flaps but look at a Denali and you'll see what I'm referring to)
    -Add Denali lettering to sides of vehicle

    There may be a few other things I left out (e.g., if your side mirrors don't have the motorized fold in/out option and/or no puddle lights, you'll need to replace those too, although you may need some additional stuff in order to get the mirrors to fold in/out by themselves) but I think the above covers most of the major stuff...and that's just for the exterior--the interior of course is a whole different story.

    I assume you're probably gonna try to find these parts at a junkyard or something 'cuz the cost for all of the above stuff brand-new ain't cheap...IOW you'd almost be better off just buying a Denali instead of trying to cosmetically change your Yukon into one.
  • Just bought a New 05 Yukon XL (1/2 ton). We have it about 10 days and the Odometer is less than 500 miles. We have noticed a weird sound underneath the car soon after taking delivery. What happened is that when we parked our car in the garage and back out, shift into drive, step on the gas pedal, within 5 to 10 seconds, there is a grinding sound coming from the front of the car for about half second and it is gone. It only happens on the first circle and the rest of the driving is OK. But it happens everytime I back and drive. I took the car to the dealership, they had three technicians look at it and none of then could find the cause of the problem. Finally, they tested another 05 XL and they claimed that that car makes the same noise.
    I went there I test-drove it and it did make the same buzz noise.
    They then told me that it is totally normal for 05 XL! I don't beleive them and then I come here to see whether there are 05 XL owners who have the same problem. Thank you and Merry Cristmas!
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Congratulations. We got our 2005 in August.

    I can't say I've had that problem. At least they could recreate it on another vehicle. Do you have 2WD or 4WD? Is this happening on dry pavement? Is it while turning or pointed straight? If you park and then go into drive again does it happen, or only after you've gone from Reverse to Drive?

    I guess mine makes a little bit of a noise when the steering wheel is totally locked to one side or another, but not when going straight that I've noticed. I'll try again and pay attention today.
  • guguigugui Posts: 1
    I own a 97 gmc suburban and at first i experience a intake gasket leak. at about 102,000 mile then as i got back from vacation in connecticut threw a rod $2000.00 rebuilt engine.
    I use mobile 1 synthetic oil also. My co work has a 97 yukon He was just told he had bad barren he has 107,000 he as change his oil as manufacture recommended.
  • I have a 2004 Yukon XL Denali with a Navigation System. Has there been an up date to the Navigation Disk? If so, where can one be purchased?
  • Wow!! I own a 2002 Yukon Denali XL and the transmission went out at 44K miles. It cost me $4,600. The second trans started acting up again after about 79K miles, but hasn't quit yet. I really thought that I was the only one with this problem. I had no idea it was this widespread. If you find anyone to help, please let me know about it.
  • Hello,

    I went for a test drive last night in an 06 YXL Denali. All of us in the vehicle (me, my son, and the salesman), noticed that upon getting onto the freeway, the vehicle ride had a very noticeable and rhythmic bounciness to it. I had previously test driven both a regular Yukon Denali and a different YXL Denali on surface streets only, and there was no bounciness to either. So this was a new experience.

    I called my Dad, who's been a round quite a while (70+), and he said that GM truck frames with long wheel bases are known for having that bounciness to them on concrete freeways. He said that if you have it all loaded down with a full tank, gear, and perhaps a trailer, it goes away. He also said that if you drive it on a blacktop highway/freeway, instead of concrete, the rhythmic bounciness does not occur.

    Have any of you experienced this? I tried searching on "bounc" (to catch all forms of the word), and didn't find anything with any answers.

    Is there a way of cancelling this bounciness out using any features of the YXL Denali, such as AutoRide? Is that something that needs to be activated? Or is AutoRide always on?

    Unfortunately the salesman was absolutely clueless about the Yukon and YXL Denali features. Didn't even know how to use the Navigation, so he couldn't show me its various capabilities. I'll need to find a different dealer.

    I like the extra cargo space available in the YXL Denali, and I wanted to give it serious consideration, but that rhythmic bouncing really bothered me. I want to be able to take it on various excursions with or without a trailer and have a comfortable ride.

    Please let me know if you have any ideas.

    By the way...what's the story on using snow cables (not chains, but cables) with the 20" rims/tires on the Denalis? Any issues?

    Thanks for any assistance you may be able to provide.

  • Mine is a 2WD. It happens whenever I start the car and speed up to about 20m/h (It even happens when directly moving to D, not just reverse and then move to Drive as I tested). You have to be very careful to be able to hear the buzz noise and keep your car quite, no radio or CD. When you hear it the first time, you will hear it again thereafter even if you turn on the radio. The technician in the dealership said it is some kind of relay noise. It sounds like a releasing of compressed air.
  • Well, it must have been either a bad XL suspension, or a bad section of freeway. I took another Yukon XL Denali on a test drive today on the freeway (2 of them actually), and they faired much better. I think I just need to get used to the stiffer suspension of these large SUVs, since I'm used to minivans and sedans.


  • I'll most likely be purchasing a Denali or XL Denali in the next day or two (looking like XL Denali at this point). I've researched other postings on wheel size and have come to the conclusion that going with the 20" rims/tires is asking for trouble when doing any sort of off roading (I'm just talking unpaved dirt roads, nothing crazy), as well as having more flexibility with snow cables, and handling pot holes without damaging the rims. So, I'll stick with the 17" stock wheels/tires for the purchase.

    However, I'm still interested in getting an upgraded wheel/tire via aftermarket that upgrades the look, and that can still handle the unpaved roads, snow cables, pot holes, etc.

    Has anyone found a comprise along the lines of an 18" custom wheel/tire rig? If so, is there a good online vendor that you could point me to? I live in Southern California, so I imagine there may be several outfits down here I can visit, but it would be great if I could at least see an online catalog to choose from.

    Any help is appreciated.


  • stakeoutstakeout Posts: 173
    have an '04 burban 4wd .. same noise after initial startup .. pull away and 5-10 seconds there it is... I believe that noise is the Stabilitrak system kicking on.. our older '01 burbans.. both mine and my wife's without Stabilitrak didn't do that...
  • Well, I took the leap and purchased an 06 YXL Denali with all the options (NAV, RES, Sunroof, buckets). Very excited!

    Regarding break in of the vehicle. Just how important is it to not go over 55 mph, and to not shift down, during the first 500 miles? I'm fairly certain that both of those things have already happened just in the course of the dealer transferring the vehicle from another dealer. The freeways here in Southern California have everyone driving at high speeds (70+), and I'm willing to bet that whoever drove it down could have easily used engine braking at some point. The vehicle had about 100 miles on it when I took delivery.

    Regarding the topic of being towed. The manual clearly states that the vehicle cannot be towed, otherwise the drive train will be damaged! Now, given that every vehicle I've ever owned has been towed at one time or another, I just want to make sure I understand what they mean by towing. The manual talks about the fact that the wheels cannot touch the ground while being towed. So, that means towing the vehicle should always be done via a flat bed truck. I'm ok with that.

    However, what about just moving the vehicle at slow speeds, such as when getting it up on the flat bed?

    Or what about pushing it out of my driveway to jump start it?

    What about getting pulled out of the snow or mud via the recovery hooks?

    I guess I need to make absolutely sure that the vehicle never "coasts" in neutral at more than a walking pace.

    Sorry if the questions seem silly. I've never owned an AWD (or even a 4WD), and I'm excited about using it for family treks to mountains, snow, trails, and good old road trips. I want to make sure I make the thing last and keep it working well.

    Anyway...any info you have is appreciated. I'm also going to call the dealer and see what the service guys have to say.


  • Yes, my car does have stabilitrak and your explannation sounds reasonable. Will other Yukon XL owner share your ideals?
  • I'm interested in bumping up the height of my new DXL a few inches, just so that I can get some better ground clearance for the occasional trails that have some deep dips, as we make our way with the bike rack (with 4 bikes) on the back.

    Has anyone here done anything like that? I've done a little research on it, and it appears that full blown suspension lift kits aren't available due to the autoride (nor would I necessarily want such a major modification). I've heard of something called a "body lift", not sure about the difference.

    Any insight is appreciated.


  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I think the nav disc version is currently (last time I checked) at 4.1; where one can be purchased depends on how much you're willing to pay for it. Unless you have a nice business relationship with the parts and/or sales manager at your favorite GMC dealership, you will need to shell out quite a few bills for the disc if bought at a dealership. Ebay is probably your best bet if price is an issue...
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I can't offer an opinion as to how good a compromise 18" wheels/tires will be for off-roading/snow/etc. since I've never tried them out; I guess it would sorta depend on how aggressive you'll drive your vehicle under those types of road conditions--e.g., really rocky roads, deep snow drifts, etc.

    FWIW--I'm running 22" wheels/tires on my DXL and for the most part, try to avoid road conditions that are really adverse for those sized shoes. However--I have driven on snow-covered roads (2-3 inches deep) and on fairly-rugged (i.e., no large rocks to drive over) dirt roads on my 22's w/o any problems...of course, I do drive a bit more conservatively than I probably would if I were running on the stockers. Potholes--well, I know I'm taking my chances in that regard--but as with any kind of choice, there will always be compromises.

    Just my opinion, but 18" is not much of a compromise if "big-wheel" look is part of the equation since there isn't much of a perceptible difference from going up only 1" in size. I think that as long as you drive a bit more conservatively under such road conditions, 20" is a much better compromise in both looks (size-wise) and performance. OTOH--since you mentioned about the possible need for using snow cables...I guess it would be a bit difficult to find cables for 20" tires although I would imagine that it might only be a matter of time before some manufacturer starts offering them, what with the increased proliferation of big wheels/tires being offered these days.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Congrats from one DXL owner to another on your purchase--I'm sure you'll enjoy driving it! If you're one of those types who are open to trying to get more power out of your DXL, you might want to consider a custom PCM tune...I did and it's the best bang-for-the-buck aftermarket performance add-on I've ever purchased for my truck.

    About the vehicle towing issue--the AWD system on the Denali cannot be put in neutral (I'm not talking about putting the tranny in neutral--that's a different thing altogether) unlike that of most 4WD vehicles. The technical explanation that describes why this is so eludes me at the moment (someone please help me out) but suffice it to say, it is because of this issue that the Denali cannot be towed at speed w/ all four wheels touching the ground. You can however tow/move it at very-slow speed (e.g., pushing it) for very short distances such as during those situations you mentioned w/o risk of damage to the transfer case.
  • oj619oj619 Posts: 1
    How do I replace the antenna base and cable on a 2002 Yukobn XL?
  • How ironic!! I recently bought an 06 Yukon XL in October. Recently I noticed a grinding noise and they told me the same thing. I took it to a brake shop to get a second opinion and they said it is a suspension problem. In the process of checking on this lead..
  • thanks for all the info . . . mine is an '01 Yukon XL, but I'm having what may be a similar problem - speaker static. The static comes over the speaker, right when the vehicle is started and slowly (5-10 miles later) dissipates. It happens whether the radio is powered on or off. I recently took the vehicle in for a recall, some kind of fuel circuit assembly thing (I can't recall), but I do remember something in the recall information about a ground wire. I'm thinking when the dealer performed the recall, they didn't do the ground 'right', and in the few weeks after, it's worked loose, and that's what's leading to the static. The dealer told me it could be a blown speaker . . . but with static coming over it whether it's on or off . . . ? That doesn't sound right to me. Any advice on where I start looking for that loose ground . . . ? Thank you very much.
  • my '01 XL is coming up on 80K miles, and I haven't had any tranny service / work done. I need to check out the OM about when this should be done, but I'm thinking you did the 'right' thing and it failed anyway . . . yes?
    By the way, the guy at the Express Lube says they offer two types of tranny service, one drains and the other, they put some kind of vacuum on it to really 'drain it right', or something like that . . . doesn't sound right to me, does it . . . ?
  • thanks to all who have posted on this problem (headliner / speaker(?) static / buzzing), and for directing me to the Tahoe board, where I found a similar problem . . . if this is in fact not speaker / radio / ground related, but rather an aspirator and / or fan related to the ACC, do I just pop off that little speaker-looking 'thing', and replace whatever's underneath, or . . . ? I've seen some mention of doing what may need doing by first removing the headliner, but that seems like more than I want to get in to . . . any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    You can squeeze an inch out just by adjusting the torsion bars which suspend your front end. You probably have enough slack to raise it a half inch or so in the adjustment bolts (support the front end with jackstands then tighten the bolts). Otherwise you need to remove the bars and rotate them to the next position, then retighten the adjustment bolts. Of course the more you raise them the more you will affect your handling. It's built in for fine adjustments, mainly leveling side-to-side, but it works for this too. You can then adjust your autoride height sensor to level the vehicle in the rear. Of course it's nothing like installing a 4-6" Fabtech system, but this is one of the few vehicles which can be lifted slightly without purchasing any new parts. You'll want to get a front-end alignment after messing with the suspension.
  • Thanks Chris. I'll hold off for now, however, if I do lift it, I'll probably want to go with 3 or 4 inches. I don't think one inch would be worth it. I get the impression that installing a lift kit on the Deanli isn't very popular, due to the complexities involved with the AutoRide suspension.

  • I spent some time today getting to know my new XL Denali, specifically taking out the jack equipment, lowering the spare, making sure I could get it all the way out, finding the locations for jacking up the front and back, etc. It certainly isn't easy or clean work, but not terribly difficult either (although I didn't actually remove a wheel and replace it with the spare).

    One thing I noticed is that the crank bar assembly used to lower the spare tire doesn't quite clear the bumper while making the revolutions. If you're real careful, you can tug on it just as it's coming around to the bumper for each crank, however, it's best to use a towel or something soft on the end of the iron, so it won't damage the paint on the bumper. If they had just extended the length another inch, that would have taken care of the issue.

    I'm wondering if anyone has put together a custom spare rig that would allow a true full size (i.e. 17" or 20" setup) to be stored underneath the vehicle. I asked my dealer service advisor once, and he asked a tech, who said they had done it before. But now that I've spent some time underneath, I don't see how they could, unless they removed the spare winch and did some kind of welding of another cross-bar in order to properly center the location for the larger spare.

    Has anyone heard of anything like that?

    I ask because I've had true full size spares in the past, and they come in real handly. They can make a real difference, especially if you get a flat while on vacation, and you're in an area where there isn't an abundance of locations to get the tire repaired (e.g. up in the mountains enjoying the snow). It can really rob an entire day sometimes, and it's not good to drive on a wheel/tire that's a different size like that, particularly in winter weather conditions.

    Please let me know if any of you have heard of a way of mounting a true full size spare (in my case, 17").


  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I don't know about a full size spare, but what size is the spare on a Yukon XL? I would have to crawl underneath to check. I can't imagine it's a "donut" spare like on cars.

    I do know the owner's manual says that after you change the flat tire, you can store it where the spare came from. I also have 17" wheels.

    My guess is that the spare is close enough in size that you can drive on it safely for a long distance at any speed. Equipping a vehicle this big with a small spare would be too dangerous. It is probably the same circumfrence as the regular tires.
  • Thanks for your feedback.

    The supplied spare is 16". Specifically, it's a P245/75R16, Goodyear Wrangler ST, with rating of 109S. The OE tires on the Yukon XL Denali are P265/70R17 Wrangler HP, with rating of 113S.

    I think it's fine to drive on a spare that's slightly smaller and with a different rating for up to a day, as long as the roads are nice and dry, and the vehicle isn't heavily loaded or pulling anything, particularly if the spare goes on the rear.

    However, if the spare goes on the front, or we're up in the snow where the road conditions aren't so nice, then I think it could affect handling negatively quite a bit.

    By the way, I crawled way under to check the clearance of the tire all the way around with a measuring tape, and it looks like there's another 1.9", which should handle a full size wheel/tire combo after all. It didn't look like it had that much clearance when I glanced at it earlier, but the tape confirms it.

    I suppose the only issue is when mounting the flat wheel/tire, it would be good to have some sort of wheel cover that could be put in place, to prevent road debris/hazards from damaging the aluminum wheel (particularly if I upgrade to some really nice rims).

    They just need to make the jack handle extensions a little longer, so the jack handle won't slam into the bumper when cranking!


  • The 16" spare is the same "height" as the 17", so it is considered a full-size spare. Put it along side one of your wheels and you'll see. However, I came across a steel 17" wheel/tire from a Silverado and have put that underneath my Denali as my spare. Fits perfectly. I have used the tool kits on my Denali and Silverardo and an Escalade and had no problem clearing the rear bumper when cranking down the spare.
  • heppshepps Posts: 3
    I've got an 03 Denali with 58000 miles. at the 50k checkup flushed the tranny. Now, we have slipping in 3rd and 4th. Dealer says its a seal and could be whole transmission.

    Seems like this is a recurring issue with all Denali's. Also have bad bearing in front differential.

    Cost on tranny = $1200 to $2600.
    Cost on differential = $700 to $1000.

    I can't believe this happens on a $50k+ vehicle with only 58k miles on it. It really sucks.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    Not that you'd want/need to go to such a size, but I read that it's possible to fit even an 18" tire/wheel in the spare tire compartment. Supposedly not just any 18", but it's possible. I sure hope so because I have a Baer Alumasport brake kit on my DXL which can't take anything smaller than 18".
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    Just though I would share a positive product experience with y'all.

    I applied Lexol cleaner and conditioner to the light tan leather in my 2005 Yukon XL today. I have been reading the car care forums and some other websites, and this was recommended by a lot of people. I like it very much. Until now, I have only used Maguiar's quick wipes, and while they do remove a lot of dirt quickly, they tend to leave a slick residue even after drying. Not terribly greasy, but not ideal. In my opinion, the Lexol cleaner is not highly potent. The seats were not all that dirty to begin with, but I had to rub for quite a while to remove a few scuff marks. However, in combination with the conditioner, I am very pleased. The seats are left feeling very soft and supple, and not at all slick or greasy. Some other members in the car care forums have suggested that the Lexol conditioner may darken or discolor very light leather, in fact the back of the bottle says so too. So I tried just a spot on the back seat to be safe. No discoloration at all, as far as I can tell.

    The seats have started to develop "character lines" or "stretch marks" after 6 months and 8,000 miles. Not cracks or creases, but the type of "breaking in" you see on a leather jacket. I was hoping they would stay taught and smooth for life, but I have read elsewhere that this type of breaking in is normal. Not a problem, I guess, as long as the Lexol keeps them soft. I may still use the Maguair's now and then for intermediate cleanings, you could see the dirt being picked up on the wipe. But I will continue to do the Lexol conditioner every couple of months.

    My next project, maybe this weekend if it still feels like June outside, will be to wax it again and apply Rainex to the glass and get new wipers.

    Happy motoring to you all!
  • neo6neo6 Posts: 24
    Does anyone have any experience in the ride of a Yukon XL 2WD vs. an AWD Denali XL. I am considering trading my '03 Yukon XL for one of the last 2006 Denali XLs. Know I will give up a little in mpg but want to make sure the ride is still smooth and not too stiff due to the all wheel drive.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    I haven't been in one, but the Autoride air suspension is standard, so it ought to be pretty good. Just drive one and see for yourself.

    And, I would get one of the last '05s instead of an '06. The current incentive is $8,000 off of '05s and $5500 off of '06s. The only difference as far as I know is that for 2006 they combined the XM radio and OnStar into a single antenna instead of two separate ones. Totally worth saving and extra $2500, IMHO!

    I am very happy with my 2005 Yukon XL SLT, and not real crazy about the 2007 makeover. I would be all over one of the remaining 2005 Denalis if I had the means. Good luck, and let us know what you decide.
  • Are there any Denali owners out there willing enough to share what there are getting in MPG. Here is my issue, my wife wants a Honda Odyssey. She won't even think of a Denali due to conception of poor mpg. The Odyssey in real world use, and depicted by owners here at the Insideline have indicated they are getting anywhere from 15-20mpg. If thats the case, and the Denali is getting the same, its a no brainer to go with the Denali. However I need this information on paper so I can prove to here beyone a resonable doubt that the Denali is a better way to go. I thank you.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    There's a Honda Odyssey Owners: MPG-Real World Numbers discussion but there's not one for the Denali.

    Unless there's interest in starting one, please toss out your city/highway mpg in here.

    Steve, Host
  • neo6neo6 Posts: 24
    I don't have a Denali but a regular 5.7 Yukon XL. I have a K&N high performance air filter and run synthetic Mobil One. My wife drives mostly around town but either way trips or local - the average I get is about 15.5 period, no matter how I drive. Given the Denali is AWD, I would subtract about 1.0 - 1.5 MPG just to be safe. The Odyssey is a great van (I had one in 2000) but the Yukons are just more comfy inside and feel more truck like. I also like the fact that in the event of a collision, the Yukon will almost always turn out better than the other car. The vans just don't have enough nose and sheet metal between you and the other car. The good news is that the Yukons all run on regular gas vs. 93.
  • tdohtdoh Posts: 298
    I've gotten anywhere between 16-17 mpg out of a tank of gas in my '04 DXL--this while travelling around 70 mph; one time I even managed to average 19.1 mpg over a 60+ mile stretch while traveling 65 mph--maybe a fluke/error but that's what the DIC reported. I might have been able to squeeze out another tenth or two mpg if I were rolling on the stock wheels/tires instead of the 20-lb heavier 22" shoes.

    The Odyssey may very well get better fuel economy than the Denali--if even only by a slim margin--but obviously one wouldn't even consider a Denali unless power was a big factor. I mean, who would tell themselves, "I would consider getting a Denali even if it didn't have that 6-liter engine in it..."? Sounds like you definitely are attracted to the additional power the Denali makes over the Odyssey, fuel economy be darned. IMHO if you plan to do mostly highway driving, can control the urge to romp on the gas pedal for the most part, and don't plan to do a lot of long-distance heavy towing, the Denali should be good enough for you. OTOH--if there will be quite a city driving mixed in, then the Denali isn't it for you since I can definitely tell you that real-world city fuel economy sucks big time...rarely can I get 14 mpg (based on 90% surface-street driving) out of my DXL; low-13's are more the norm for me.
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