Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Odie
Is there an alternative shop (Midas or Brakes Plus) where I can get good brakes? What are the ceramic brakes that I've heard talk about? I just want to end this yearly brake expenditure.
I did come across message #2463--are Raybestos and Bendix that brands I should be looking for????
Thanks.
If you are somone like my Dad, who always waits to the last possible second before you begin to brake and then have to apply full brake power, you are going to get lousey wear performance.
Yes the 01 Escape is probably under braked to begin with, what with the drums in the rear, but you could be making this a lot worse.
I have a 2002 Mazda Protege 5 with 65k miles on it and never have had to replace the brakes. (another way maunal transmissions save money)
Mark
Odie
enhanced pads that I've got now. Little dusting and good wear for about 22K miles on the pads. Buy new rotors as you will probably need them, d/t the OEM rotors maybe not being usable at that point. This may cost you almost as much as what the Ford dealer would charge, but I think you'll be a lot happier in the end.
Just heard from a mechanic friend that Ford is releasing a low-dust replacement pad for the Escape at $300 for the pads alone. They'd better be plated in gold and
guarantee 100K mikes, 'cause I wouldn't but them otherwise. These will not be replaced for free on '05 Escapes or previous yr. Escapes as I understand it.
Do any other owners experience this problem?
I have had these problems with my 2005 Escape XLT 4X4 and they replaced the Rear End/Axle Assy at 5500miles. The heitation in the transmission didn't occur until after this was done.
For those of us who have the plastic bumpers/molding. You must take care of this. I do my own outside detailing of my vehicle. The guy at the detail shop said my vehicle looked great, he could tell I was using plastic cleaner/conditioner on my bumpers/moldings. Pass the word....Take care of your plastics on your Escapes/Tribs...
All I can say is don't think it is just the 04-05's. I baby my cars, and this one has been serviced faithfully, (even breast fed.) So don't think that your problem is from misuse. If I were you and was lucky enough to have leased rather than purchased - I'd drive it until the lease is up, hand them the keys, and don't look back.
Problem for me is . . .I still LIKE the damn thing! :lemon:
Also, the angle of the player is tipped, and you want to always tip the disk in a downward angle. Shorter people just tend to lift it UP and this really jams the thing and will not allow the EJ button to work.
For a standard unit, it has a terrific sound, though.
PLEASE clear my lense on this ...
Thanks
Eggie
Thanks
This should be covered under new-car warranty period.
The light could have been damaged in shipment to the dealer, or if someone else took it on a test drive. None the less the headlamp should have zero moisture in it.. Weep hole?? never hear of it...
I live at the top of a steep hill and am not sure the 4 cylinder XLS can make it all the way.
Also, how does the 4 cylinder handle in the snow in general? I test drove both yesterday, but it's hard to tell in the mild weather. The XLS didn't struggle to go uphill and the gears shifted smoothly, but it's not icy and snowy right now.
I am going from a GT Ford Probe (which I have LOVED) and am used to a powerful car getting me where I want to go. Only problem with the Probe was it was a car and I didn't have SUV expectations from it.
The tech told me it was recurring problem with the sealing of the headlight unit.
Moisture = corrosion = electrical shorts.
On another note, I read some of the articles about gas mileage. I too, find that I get most mileage when the gas gauge reads between Full and 1/2...after that, it seems to zip by! I wish I could get 370 miles to a tank of gas! I usually have to fill-up when I have around 300, 310 miles on the trip odometer...I can get up to about 330 miles, but by then, the idiot light has come on, indicating I need some gas. I do most of my driving on the freeway, with about 5 miles in the city (the city being Wash., DC)
Well, lemme know if anybody has experienced the pulling problem...thanks!
I think you'd be surprised by how much kick a modern 4-cylinder with Fuel Injection and V V T can give.
My previous ride was a 146 Hp Honda CR-V (pre-V V Ti) with a stick. It was fine on power. If you can find a new CR-V with a stick, you should try it - they're really fun to drive. Just not many of them around. But it's only available in AWD (Actually, their term is RT4WD).
Hope this helps you. I've rented Escapes several times and really like 'em. But beware, if you need to get up steep, snowy hills, you should get the AWD version. Neither FWD combo, I4 or V6, give you traction control
it might be an alignment issue
knowing a bit about the dc area, what speed do you drive on the highway?
how many gallons do you put in when the low fuel light comes on?
Seems a little early for this kind of thing.
My mechanic said it was hard to find the part, implying that it must be in high demand.
Any thoughts or comments ?
:confuse:
Can you try a different dealer's service dept?
If you have, please reply to pr@edmunds.com no later than Tuesday, September 27, 2005 with your daytime contact information and a brief description of your recent crossover/sport wagon purchase experience.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
Share your vehicle reviews
The service covers:
- Change engine oil and replace oil filter (Up to 5 qts of motor oil)
- Inspect engine cooling system and hoses
- Inspect brake pads/shoes/rotors/drums, brake lines and hoses, and parking brake system
- Perform multi-point inspection
- Rotate tires for optimal tire life
- Inspect complete exhaust system and heat shields
- Inspect wheel ends for end play and noise
- Replace engine air filter
- Inspect and lubricate steering linkage, ball joints, suspension and, if equipped, half shafts drive shaft and u-joints
- Replace fuel filter
Oil/Filter change: $25 tops
Air Filter change: $25 tops
Lube (?): As I understand it, all ball-joints, suspension components are sealed, the dealership mechanic will do 15-minute walk-around max.
Rotate Tires: typically this service can be discounted but averages $25
Fuel Filter change: $50 tops (can be done in about 15-minutes under the car)
Multi-point inspection: May include a diagnostic-scan, but maybe not. This scan is increasingly being done at dealers for about $60-$100. Takes about 15-minutes as I'm told.
Seems to me your price should be about 1/2 what you listed and even then the service department is making money. I can almost guarantee the dealer is making 100%+ profit on what they are charging. I'm not a mechanic or former service-writer, but this stuff's not too hard to figure out either. Out of $250 charged, the mechanic will only make maybe $60.00 for a 1-hour service. Good luck, but I agree with the other posts to check around some if you can.
you prefer.
Odie
I'd go with the suggestion in a couple of posts down too.
My biggest gripe is and always has been the gas mileage. But apparently the newer model Escapes with electronic throttle control and other upgrades get about
2-3 mpg more than mine.
The dealer has already done a road force balance - but after a day it
returned. -- There are two NHTSA reports of the same problem - vibration
at about 55 mph - are we on the source of a serious default here?
Looking for inputs and advise - of course I'm going back to the dealer for another
attempt at a repair - should have kept the gas guzzler - at least it didn't vibrate
at hi-way speeds...