BMW 328i/328xi

absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
edited October 2014 in BMW
After driving SUVs for the last 9 years, with raising gas prices and other factors, I decided to plunge into smaller fun cars. Returned my 04' ML350 and leased myself a 07' 328i (basic with metallic color, memory seats and auto tranny). I test-drove all other types, including the sports package (where I found sports seats very uncomfortable.) The 335i that the dealer had all had sports packages and, after test-driving the basic 328i at about 90mph on a curvy city street, I decided that 230hp is plenty for me.

Now I want to learn things about my new car. While there are plenty of reviews of 330i and 335i, I have not found a single review of basic 328i. I want to know what the 0-to-60 is, I imagine it is in 6 sec range, also what is the top speed, what is the breaking distance, and what is the skidpad with regular 16-inch tires (not the 255s that come with sports package). Is there such a review someone can point to? Thanks!
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Comments

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Some of what you want can be found on the BMW-USA web site:

    http://www.bmwusa.com/vehicles/3/328isedan/techdata.htm

    Keep in mind that BMWs numbers are usually a tad conservative. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    Thanks, I should have realized to look at BMW's own site. It pretty much has most of the info I was looking for, with exception of skidpad. Is skidpad in 0.8+ zone?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Is skidpad in 0.8+ zone?"

    Hmmm, on 205 section width All-Season RFTs? That'd be a stretch, however, it may not be far south of .8. Bump those tires up to 225s (especially if they're GFTs) and my bet is that you've got .8 easy.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jtlajtla Member Posts: 386
    test-driving the basic 328i at about 90mph on a curvy city street

    Wow, what city do you live in?

    When I was searching for my next car back in December and January, my two finalists were G35 Sport and 3-Series. Although there was no shortage of review on G35 and 335i, I could not find any test report on 328i. After several rounds of test-drive, I eventually decided on the 328i 6MT with sport package.

    Today, I received the April issue of Car & Driver. Guess what? There it is, the comparo of G35 Sport and 328i!! Both test cars are manual transimmision with sport suspecsion. Here are some numbers for your reference.

    C&D clocked the 328i 0-60 at 6.1 sec -- 0.2 sec faster than BMW's official time. I was kind of disappointed by this number, because for 335i, the test result by most magazines were 0.6 sec faster than what BMW published (4.8 vs 5.4 sec). I had hoped that my 328i would be in the sub-6 seconds. Assuming the same variance, your Steptronic 328i should do 0-60 in 6.7 sec. Breaking 70-0 is 160 ft. The skidpad for the 328i with sport package (which has 17" wheels with 225/45 front and 255/40 rear performance summer tires) is 0.88 g. Can't wait to get my car! :)

    If you did not subscribe to C&D, you may want to go grab one at supermarket, because this might be the only 328i test review you will ever find. ;)
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    The article was interesting. Especially since the article mentioned some family cars were in fact faster then the 328. The 335i 4.7s on the auto tranny vs 328 6.1s using the manual tranny were interesting. I would have like to have seen C&D test the 328 auto tranny.
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    I do subscribe to Car and Driver, I am yet to get the April's issue. That is very exciting, it is even better than I thought, with 0-to-60 at 6.1 and 0.88g skidpad.

    I live in Los Angeles and I test-drove the cars at night:) The dealer was a friend of my friend and he simply gave us a bunch of keys and let us just go and test drive any car we want by ourselves which I properly did.

    I did not get the sport package because although I liked the wider tires, I hated the sports seats; maybe my back is too wide, but the sports seats squeeze my body from the sides in a very uncomfortable way, my friend who was a passenger at the time of the test, commented as well that he was uncomfortable. I understand the idea that the seats are designed so that on turns the seats hold you. But for me they were uncomfortable,and I thought, "If am uncomfortable after driving for 10 minutes, what would happen on the four-hour trip to Vegas?" The steering wheel also felt stiffer with a sports package. So the sports package is not for me.

    What I may end up doing, since I leased the car, I will probably just buy myself a set of 225/245 17 or 18 inch tires, similar to those used in the sports package, put the on my car, keep the OE 205s and then put them back in 3 years when it is time to turn the car back. I check on tire rack's site, you can get these tires for under $800 for all four.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "What I may end up doing, since I leased the car, I will probably just buy myself a set of 225/245 17 or 18 inch tires, similar to those used in the sports package, put the on my car, keep the OE 205s and then put them back in 3 years when it is time to turn the car back. I check on tire rack's site, you can get these tires for under $800 for all four."

    Smart move. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • spiritintheskyspiritinthesky Member Posts: 207
    "That is very exciting, it is even better than I thought, with 0-to-60 at 6.1 and 0.88g skidpad."

    Don't get carried away in your reading "excitement". You should either be excited, or not, driving the car - and hopefully satisfied yourself of its capabilities BEFORE buying it. The 328i non-sport automatic is a fine car. But it's definitely not going to match the 6-speed manual, sport packaged version in performance, so why kid, tease or frustrate yourself by reading those reviews after the fact?

    "I will probably just buy myself a set of 225/245 17 or 18 inch tires, similar to those used in the sports package, put the on my car, keep the OE 205s and then put them back in 3 years when it is time to turn the car back. I check on tire rack's site, you can get these tires for under $800 for all four."

    I usually agree with Shipo's comments, but not the "smart move" one this time. It's going to cost you at least 3 times that price to buy 17 or 18" WHEELS and tires for your non-sport 328i. And what will you do with them after the lease expires? - they will be worth next to nothing. Save your money. The sport suspension accounts for more than 50%+ of the difference in handling, more than the tires. Putting low profile soft compound rubber on a non-sport suspensioned car is not a smart move, IMO - financially or performance wise.

    If you were so concerned about performance, you would have been much better off with a 328i sport 6-speed manual. But now that you've made the decision, save your dollars for the next time around and enjoy the car you have.
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    :) spiritinthesky, I just realized it myself by talking to another friend of mine that owns wheels and tires business. I did not realize that you cannot put a larger tires on 16 inch wheels (I am in a process of educating myself about wheels and tires). In fact I found out that because of the 16X7, 7 being the wheel's width on a stock 382i, it is impossible to fit anything wider than 205s on it, for instance, you cannot fit a 225 on it.

    I will save my money and enjoy the car that I got:)
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Could not agree with you more. Not sure why the numbers really matter anyway. And being in a city, well that further compounds the fact that the numbers are not that important.

    If you look in the Bentley Manual for the 3 series whether it is the E-46 or the E-90 or whatever, they actually have nice charts and descriptions of the difference in terms of different engines and suspensions. Putting bigger wheels on the normal suspension, is like kinda putting 22" rims on an SUV. ummm. The SP, basically comprises thicker diameter sway bars, one size down from the M series, both front and rear, and 1" lowered springs. This is besides the tires.

    I would think for a city car, the one he has is perfect, especially if in a northern city and used as an all season car, through, the potholes and snow of the winter season.

    Cheaper performance upgrades can be gotten from removal of the CDV or a strut brace bar, but if it is leased, than why bother wasting that kind of money.

    Enjoy it for what it is.

    abfisch
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Assumption #1: The non-SP 328i with the OEM 205/55 R16 RFTs had already been purchased.
    Assumption #2: Given the reputation of the RFT EL-42s that came as the OEM rubber, the tires would have to be replaced at least once over the span of the lease.
    Assumption #3: That the wheel and tire set (with GFTs) wouldn't cost that much more than a set of replacement RFTs.
    Assumption #4: That the used set of purchased wheels and tires would be worth at least a couple of hundred bucks when the car is turned back in at lease end.

    I just priced out a set of 17x8 ASA AR1 Silver w/Machined Lip wheels ($676 for the set) with a set of 225/45 ZR17 Kumho ECSTA ASX GFTs ($344 for the set) mounted on them. Total cost with shipping and taxes is probably less than $1,200.

    I then priced out a set of the OEM 16" Bridgestones at $676, which isn't too bad in and of itself. However, when shipping, handling, mounting and balancing charges are added in, we're probably talking $850-$900 minimum.

    So, to my way of thinking, assuming that the used set of wheels and tires can fetch $200, the net difference for the upgrade is $150. Money that is fairly well spent if my other assumptions hold true.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    Putting bigger wheels on the normal suspension, is like kinda putting 22" rims on an SUV. ummm.

    I have some friends that do that :)
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    I then priced out a set of the OEM 16" Bridgestones at $676, which isn't too bad in and of itself.

    shipo, the OEM RFT Continentals are only 100$ a piece at tirerack
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Moving from 16" to 17" on the base suspension shouldn't present any problems, especially if you have GFTs mounted on them. I'm thinking that a set of 17" wheels and 225 section width GFTs will probably weigh the same or less than your OEM 16" setup.

    Will your car with 225/45 R17s handle as well as an SP equipped 328i? Nope, not a chance. Will it be a noticable improvement over your current 205/55 R16 setup? I'm thinking without a doubt.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Hmmm, didn't look at those. Well, that makes the upgrade a little more difficult to justify on purely financial grounds. Oh well, I tried. Shrug.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    The summer rubber is responsible for about 70% of the handling upgrade of the sport package...

    If you take the stock sedan with 16" wheels and upgrade to 17" summer performance tires, you will be amazed at the difference..

    Where does the other 30% come from? 20% from the sport suspension and 10% from the bolstered feeling you get with the sport seats..

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  • habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    And IMO, the suspension is responsible for about 80% of the handling upgrade of the sport package. :P

    I have no experience with the 328i, but when I was shopping the 330i/330i ZHP and 530i/530i sport, you could IMMEDIATELY notice less body roll and tighter handling, even at lower speeds, than the non-sport versions. I'm sure the tires help, but there is no way that a 45 vs. 55 series tire is going to remove body roll and sway from the cars chassis/suspension. And if you have more body roll, that is going to accelerate the wear and decrease the tread life of soft compound tires.

    I own a 2004 TL 6-speed with 17" wheels and 245/45 "Y" rated summer performance tires. If tires made 70% of the difference, I should be able to run handling circles around a 3 series sport. Not a chance.

    Here's another test: before getting a 911, I seriously shopped Boxster S's. Some with the base 18" wheels and tires, others with the optional 19" wheels and tires, others yet with the optional PASM suspension (matched to both 18 and 19 inch tires). I challenge anyone to get into a Boxster S without looking at the wheels and in any test drive they choose, figure out if it has 18" or 19". It was impossible for me to tell. But get into a Boxster S with PASM (1/2" lower ride), the difference between "normal" and "sport" settings was dramatic. Even the GEICO caveman would have noticed that difference. ;)
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    IMO... MO counts for more.... as, I've owned sport and non-sport 3-series.. lol...

    Just kidding....

    But, seriously... it's got to be the shoes.. (to quote Spike Lee).

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  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    Wrong. Respectfully, wrong. Handling is all about suspension geometry. And the suspension balance and its deviation from its neutral position is what makes one car handle better than the next. Upgrading to summer tires, 1" diameter larger and 10mmor 20mm wider will give an increase in handling but not a majority's worth. 70% is very generous of you.

    Not only could readers refer to a book title "Suspension" but also see CR past articles for increasing tire sizes and lowering profiles on the same cars under like conditions. I believe they used a Honda Accord and a BMW 5 series.

    From all that I have read, and all of my little experience with dampers, sway bars, bushings, tires and springs, the majority of suspension upgrades come from retaining suspension geometry, and that would be springs, sway bars, bushings and dampers. While tires contribute to the overall increase, 70% IMO is misleading. Additionally, for a DAILY driver in a city, which I believe is what the original poster was, in a leased car for 3-4 years, you are talking about an expense of 1-2K, poorer ride qualtiy, usually worse hydroplanning, and fewer miles before another set.

    The entire picture of how the machine is used should be assessed. Just my opinion. But this is a daily driver for a city car, I believe.


    I have a BMW 04 325i MT SP, used for about 5 months of the year. I also have an 02 Avalon, with TokicoHP gas shocks, OEM springs, OEM sway bars with PU bushings for the sway bars and suspension arms(CAB/TAB)with standard size tires and wheels. The transformation of the handling, even in a front driver, is quite apparent, and it has regular wheels and tires. And the vehicle is basically an All Season vehicle with a standard ride height. But the suspension and the ability to retain it now is different, albeit the PU bushing do transmit more vibration in the cabin.

    Just thought I would add to the other side. Not recommending for leased vehicles. For leased vehicles, buy from the factory out of the box, what you can afford, enjoy, for what you use it for.

    Larger tires and wheels have their place, but in concert with other modifications as well.

    abfisch
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    There you go hurting the cave guy's feelings again! I can just see that "Bad Face" look!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    Aww... it doesn't have to be respectfully... I'm not the host in this forum.. ;)

    My wife has a 330Cic.. No sport.. It comes with 205/50-17 Continental all-seasons.. I put the staggered set-up from a sport package 330i on it, with Michelin Pilot Sports.. already used two seasons on our previous 325i Sport..

    Believe me... it is the tires.. Not the size.. the rubber.. If I could stop sliding around in the non-sport package seat, I could run rings around a sport-package equipped car on all-seasons, let alone another non-sport car...

    I know you can do extensive suspension tuning on any car... I'm just saying (stating?) that in this one particular instance (BMW 3-series), that the major difference is the summer rubber. The suspension tuning just isn't enough to make a major difference.

    Don't get me wrong... the sport package would be worth it, just for the seats.. and, I recommend it.. But, if you want the most bang for your buck, get summer tires... even in the stock 16" size...

    respectfully (I like that..),
    kyfdx
    (not the host here...rag away..)

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  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    One - 225/45-16 tires will fit on the OE 16" non-sport wheels. A max performance summer tire in that size is the first and best way to upgrade the handling of this car.

    Two - kyfdx is absolutely correct. The difference in grip between summer performance tires and all-season run-flats is like night and day. There may be more roll and weight transfer with the non-sport suspension, but grip is still grip. Tires first, then suspension.

    If I owned this car, I'd pick up a set of 225/45-16 Yokohama ES100's and head for the track!
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I originally considered recommending 225/45 R16s, however, using those tires would introduce a nearly 4% speedometer and odometer error on the high side (i.e. indicating faster speed and registering more miles than actual).

    The 225/45 R17s are pretty much bang on when compared to the OEM 205/55 R16s in the diameter and revs per mile department.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Would the lower profile tire give the handling advantage given the same wheel diameter and usually slightly larger section width? I always thought this to be true and would max out the recommended tire/wheel size.

    Also, what is the max tire/wheel combination for an E90 without any custom fit for brake clearance? This would be to achieve best grip for a stock set-up. Let's assume HP summer tires.

    Advantages/disadvantages?

    Regards,
    OW
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZMember Posts: 5,307
    a fun & helpful thread. The 328 sports wagon is currently at the top of my shopping list. Nothing I've read here so far makes me want to reconsider.

    Party on.
    '08 Acura TSX, '17 Subaru Forester
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    I originally considered recommending 225/45 R16s, however, using those tires would introduce a nearly 4% speedometer and odometer error on the high side (i.e. indicating faster speed and registering more miles than actual).

    could you please explain? What are you basing this info on? How would using wider tires produce a false reading on odometer? Obviously it is a concern since I only have 10,000 miles a year according to my lease and I don't want to go over. 4% is a significant number.
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    One - 225/45-16 tires will fit on the OE 16" non-sport wheels. A max performance summer tire in that size is the first and best way to upgrade the handling of this car.

    are you a 100% positive on that? I was under impression that because the OEM wheels are 16X7, you cannot mount a wider tire on a 7-inch-wide wheel. I was told so today by my friend who makes custom wheels. Also, if you go to tirerack's site, 205 is the only size they show in 16 inches for this car.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    shipo - You're right. I should have written 225/50-16.

    absolutic - Stock tires for my BMW are 205/55-15 on stock 15X7 wheels. I run 225/50-15 R-Comp tires on them for track events. They fit perfectly.
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    absolutic - Stock tires for my BMW are 205/55-15 on stock 15X7 wheels. I run 225/50-15 R-Comp tires on them for track events. They fit perfectly.

    Stock tires for 328i are 205/45-16. Are you saying then, 225/40/16 tires should fit? Do you know any 225/40/16?
  • spiritintheskyspiritinthesky Member Posts: 207
    Well your opinion doesn't count as much as mine, since I've owned 6 BMW's, including an original M1 and my current 2003 M5. :P

    IMO, with a lot of seat time to form it, BMW sport vs. non sport suspensions on the 3 series and 5 series sedans are definitely more significant of a handling upgrade than can be achieved with just a wheel/tire upgrade on the non-sport versions of both. I agree that the run flat tires suck, but if you throw them out of the equation, as habitat said, upsizing your wheel diameter an inch and going with lower profile tires doesn't do a DAMN thing to reduce the body roll of the vehicle.

    You may want to recheck the example of your wife's 330cic. I believe all 330i coupes have the sport suspension standard. The reduced cost sport package on the coupe simply adds the upgraded tires.

    Fedlawman: "Tires first then suspension" :confuse:

    You should be banned from all BMW forums for a month. :surprise: Frankly, that sounds like what the idiot engineers at Lexus must have thought when the inital GS400 came out. They offered low profile summer tires on a wallowy suspension and ended up in a class action suit for obscenely short tire life.

    You can put the best tires in the world on a E-class and it won't handle as well as a base 5 series. You can put the best tires in the world on a 5-series base and it won't corner as flat as a 530i sport.

    I will concede that bad tires will undermine a good suspension. But good tires will not make up for a bad/soft suspension.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    I basically agree spirit, but we're talking about a BMW, not a Buick. BMW's non-sport suspension is still quite sporting and capable - it hardly qualifies as "bad/soft."

    A 328i with non-sport suspension is not soft or wallowy, and will still benefit greatly from an improvement in grip. The upgrade from an "all-season" compound to a "max performance summer" compound is dramatic, and no upgrade in suspension is required to reap the benefits.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Member Posts: 3,118
    Sorry absolutic, I didn't know they were 205/45-16 (BMW's website says they're 205/55-16).

    Here, use this calculator to find a comparable size in 225mm width:

    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

    Remember, you can even stick with the stock size if you want. The upgrade to a summer high performance compound is much more significant to improved handling than adding a mere 20mm of width.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Okay, as best as I can answer, and all in one swell foop too:

    Base tires on a 328i are 205/55 R16, the optional tires that have been discussed here are 225/50 R16, 225/45 R16 and 225/45 R17. Consider the following specs (Key: OD=Outer Diameter, SH=Sidewall Height, RWR=Rim Width Range, ORW=Optimal Rim Width:

    205/55 R16 - OD: 24.9" SH: 4.45" RWR: 5.5"-7.5" ORW=6.5"
    225/50 R16 - OD: 24.9" SH: 4.45" RWR: 6.0"-8.0" ORW=7.0"
    225/45 R16 - OD: 24.0" SH: 4.00" RWR: 7.0"-8.5" ORW=7.5"
    225/45 R17 - OD: 25.0" SH: 4.00" RWR: 7.0"-8.5" ORW=7.5"

    I know that many of y'all have all of this memorized, however, it's new to others so bare with me.

    The basic tire size formula is: OuterDiameter = RimDiameter + (SectionWidth * ((AspectRatio / 100) * 2))

    We're working with four primary measurements here, Outer Diameter, Rim Diameter, Section Width (tread width) and Aspect Ratio (sidewall height as expressed as a percentage of Section Width). Widening the Section Width but keeping the Wheel Diameter and the Outer Diameter the same means that the only other measurement that can "give" to keep the equation in balance is the Aspect Ratio, and as such, by increasing the Section Width from 205 to 225 on our 16" rim, the Aspect Ratio MUST decrease from 55 to 50. As you can also see in the case of the 225/45 R16s, decrease the Aspect Ratio too far and the tire gets too small.

    Since the goal of this exercise is to keep the outer diameter as close to 24.9" as possible AND to increase the section width from 205 to 225, we have two real options here, move to 225/50 R16 tires (thanks FedLawman I'd forgotten this size even existed), or change wheels and move to 225/45 R17.

    Other general truths regarding tire sizes:
    - As the section width increases, so too does grip at the limit.
    - As the wheel size increases, then the sidewall must shrink and so too does the aspect ratio.
    - As the aspect ratio decreases, the tires become more responsive to steering inputs.

    Then there is the rim width measurements. As it turns out, the OEM rims on the 328i will accomodate the 225/50 R16 tires perfectly. And that my friends is the last criteria, and as such I think we have a winner. absolutic, contrary to what your friend has told you, you can safely mount wider tires in the form of the aforementioned 225/50 R16 size and your car will be quite happy. It won't handle as well as a true SP equipped 328i, but it should be noticeably better than the relatively skinny 205s that your car currently has. Want to increase responsiveness a bit more? Fine, buy new wheels and go with the 225/45 R17s.

    As for things like brake clearance, that isn't an issue with 17x8" wheels I've recommended as those wheels are the same size as BMW offers as front wheels on SP equipped cars.

    Clear as mud? Sorry, it's late and I'm tired. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "I didn't know they were 205/45-16 (BMW's website says they're 205/55-16)."

    You didn't know it because that's not what absolutic's car has. Like the BMW-USA web site says, his car has 205/55 R16 RFTs.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    Shipo, so according to your formula either 225/50 R16 or 225/45 R16 should fit ok on my wheels, correct?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    Nope..

    225/50-16

    205/55-16

    Either of those will fit... Like fedlawman says.. I'd go with the 225/50-16.

    I think 225/45-16 is a typo..

    On another note.. in '05, at least.. the coupes had the sport suspension standard, but the convertibles didn't..

    MO still stands... To get the best/cheapest handling upgrade to your non-sport 3-series.. put summer performance tires on it (you don't even have to upgrade the size).

    Better yet, order the sport package the next time.. ;)

    regards,
    kyfdx
    still not the host of this forum

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  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Yes, but...

    The 225/45 R16s will introduce a 3.8% speedometer error, the 225/50 R16s will keep your speedometer and odometer accurate. Consider the following:

    205/55 R16: 16+((205*((55/100)*2))/25.4) = OD of 24.87795"
    225/50 R16: 16+((225*((50/100)*2))/25.4) = OD of 24.85827"
    225/45 R16: 16+((225*((45/100)*2))/25.4) = OD of 23.97244"
    225/45 R17: 17+((225*((45/100)*2))/25.4) = OD of 24.97244"

    What those outer diameters mean is that the factory tires will go around fewer times per mile than the other two, however, the 225/50s are so close that they are well within the margin of error. Consider the following:

    Inches in a mile = 63,360
    205/55 R16 Revs per mile: 810.6822
    225/50 R16 Revs per mile: 811.3242
    225/45 R16 Revs per mile: 841.3042
    225/45 R17 Revs per mile: 807.6149

    The more times per mile your wheels rotate, the faster your car thinks it's going and the further it thinks it's gone.

    Said another way, DO NOT put the 225/45 R16s on your car. If you want the "45" aspect ratio then you need to buy new 17" wheels.

    I hope this helps.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    in addition to 225 it appears that certain 245/50/16 would also fit! For example these
    link title
    seems to fit 7-inch rim!
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Be Careful! If the rim is too narrow, the tire will not track correctly. Just my 2 cents.

    Regards,
    OW
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Will 245/50 R16s be able to be mounted on your rims? Yes. Is it recommended? Not a chance. Why? In addition to the fact that optimal rim width for those tires is wider than what you have, there are also separate reasons for the front and rear axles of your car.

    For the front end, the 245s most likely will destroy your inner fender liners in short order, possibly shredding the inner sidewall of the tire in the process. They're just plain too wide. In addition, as circlew pointed out, as the bead will effectively be tucked well in from the outer edge of tread, your car may not track properly, especially if you are driving on older road surfaces that are rutted.

    For the rear end, you are introducing speedometer and odometer error, 3% in the other direction this time (i.e. your car will be traveling 3% faster than indicated and your odometer will be indicating 3% fewer miles).

    Short of buying new wheels, your single option is to buy a set of 225/50 R16 tires. If you buy new wheels, then the criteria that you must stay within is an outer tire diameter of 24.9" plus or minus 0.2", and tread no wider than 225 in the front and 245 in the rear. Also, please keep in mind that if you do decide to go with a staggered setup (i.e. 225s in front and 245s in the rear), you will lose your ability to rotate your tires.

    A final thought. IMHO, tires that have been mounted on wheels that are marginally too narrow or too wide for the intended tires, look stupid.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    245s are too wide for a 7" wheel.. I'd concentrate on the best rubber I could get, that stays within stock parameters..

    As shipo states... 225/50-16 is your best bet.. If you put some ultra-sticky tires in that size on your vehicle, then you'll see massive improvements in grip and turn-in.

    Now, all that said... Maybe we should continue any further tire discussions here: BMW 3-Series Tires and Wheels

    Because... the actual title of this discussion is 2007 BMW 328i Performance

    Thanks!
    kyfdx
    (not the host here)

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  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Tires ARE performance! But you set the direction.

    Regards,
    OW
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Thanks. :)
  • abfischabfisch Member Posts: 591
    You are soooo right. And then some are talking about tracking the car. This original thread was a person who was leasing a car, in a city environment.

    Some people just have to have the bigger tires for the look. But it is quite the opposite for driving sport.

    abfisch
  • absoluticabsolutic Member Posts: 29
    I'm the original person who started the thread. And after driving the car for about 230 miles in the last 6 days, I decided to keep the original 205s. The car drives very good as it is. I also discovered the DS position. At the beginning, I thought it was either D for fully automatic or I had to shift M1 through M6. Yesterday after reading this site I discovered that the intermediate position of DS means more fun. I tried it and I am loving it. I am never going back to MB.
  • fouronetwofouronetwo Member Posts: 4
    Recently got the 07 328XI coupe, I notice the oil temp running past the middle. Is this normal? Mines runs around 2-3 clicks past the middle.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Did you install your oil temperature gauge from an after market supplier of did you somehow manage to get BMW to supply you one from their parts bin?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • fouronetwofouronetwo Member Posts: 4
    The coupe comes with it instead of the MPG gauge.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 207,760
    Hey! We learn something new every day.. :)

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  • habitat1habitat1 Member Posts: 4,282
    The oil temp and water temp guages in my 911 run at the middle of the guage under normal conditions. The oil pressure guage runs near 5 on a scale of 1 to 5 when the car is driving along at normal speeds (drops lower at idle).

    If your oil temp guage is running to the high side by a noticable margin, I'd check with your service manager, but also test drive/check some other vehicles on the lot. That does not sound right to me, but I'm not sure how BMW aligns their guages.
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