Tires, tires, tires
I'm looking for some quality tires with good wet
weather traction for my VW Cabriolet. They're 185
60 series 14's and I'm looking for the same. I
really like Pirelli's, the P4000's are nice and
also inexpensive. But the P6000's have a very nice
aquachannel and look more attractive. But they're
$100 more. ANyn\body know if it's it worth it to
pay more for the aquachannel? I live in L.A., and
although it doesn't rain much during the summer,
winter can be hell on wheels with very slick
conditions.
weather traction for my VW Cabriolet. They're 185
60 series 14's and I'm looking for the same. I
really like Pirelli's, the P4000's are nice and
also inexpensive. But the P6000's have a very nice
aquachannel and look more attractive. But they're
$100 more. ANyn\body know if it's it worth it to
pay more for the aquachannel? I live in L.A., and
although it doesn't rain much during the summer,
winter can be hell on wheels with very slick
conditions.
0
Comments
It depends on what you are looking for. Performance, winter traction, all-season traction, quiet ride, high treadwear, etc.
WHat are you looking for???
Thanks for suggestions/opinions.
Sounds like a good deal...Alignment included too.. Those gov't ratings for wear, temperature, and traction may help you. I've not heard or read any negative comments about their tires.
They rotate and balance the tires for free every 7K miles. The computerized balancers they use are mostly top-notch, FMC 7 and 8 series, which, in the hands of a trained technician, accurately balance your tires to .10 oz.
Yeah, I work at Sam's :-)
One final thought: Buy Michelins.
Okay, two final thoughts: if you have locking lug nuts, please don't make the guy dig through your glove box/trunk/etc. to find it. We really hate that.
email me if you have any other questions
stcdm02@moravian.edu
However, chances are your car will be handled in a professional manner, but this is just what I'd do. In some shops they actually hold themselves to a higher standard than a Lexus dealership, using coated weights and balancing wheels better than they were off the assembly line. In a company as large as that, you get all kinds.
But this doesn't only go for Sam's, it goes for every retail tire shop where they hire guys off the street with little or no experience, where a "good" applicant is a human being who has held less than four jobs in the past year, has had no felony convictions, and is willing to work Sundays. Buyer beware.
I have Michelin XGT V-4 tires, 225-60 R16.. What would you recommend that would give a smoother and quieter ride?
EK
I also live in the northeast and that size rubber is worthless is any kind of snow.
I just bought 4 G Force KDW, for 103 a piece. But
its a much better tire than what come on it stock.
if you want a stock tire, get the BF goodrich VR4 you can get them at 69 a piece from TireRack.
Additional Comments on Sam's Club. If they don't have a tire you want, "They Can Order it for you!"
My brother wanted a certain tire for his BMW, and they said sure we can order any tire you want, you don't have to take their discount tires. And the price on those BMW tires he was looking for was better than he saw anywhere else.
cheapest Michelins that are available at SAM's
club?
quiet, outstanding dry/wet traction, but expensive
and wears fast (200 treadwear rating, please correct me if I'm wrong). Believe me,I"ve been using them on my 92 Camry with 17" Fittipaldi Polaris wheels since 1996. I tried 225/45ZR17 and 235/45ZR17 with both oustanding results but I will say again,,, EXPENSIVE! Discount Tire charges me
around $170 per on the 235's. For a pair, installed, balanced, tax...totals almost $380.
If you want the same ultra-hi performance as the
comp T/A try the FALKEN ZE-502 (300 treadwear!)
they only 117 each and total job costs for a pair
is (drum roll!!) ....$270 down here in San Diego.
A savings of $100.
Try them at falkentire.com
The tire size is FR78-15. I think the 15 is the rim size, but what the heck is the FR78????
Can anybody tell me what replacement size I need????
Thanks in advance !!!!
15 is the rim size as you figured out, 78 is the sidewall ratio (like 70, 60, 65, etc), F is the load rating and R means its a radial. Any tire dealer can give you the translation to modern tire sizing. But somewhere in your car should be a sticker giving the tire size the mfgr put on.
What does your memory tell you (or anyone for that matter) what a 165SR15 means??????
Thanx in advance.
Akashino - you shouldn't calculate the diameters since 2 manufacturers of the same size tire would have different diameters. You need the mfgr's number for the specific tire. But if you just want to estimate the difference, I also estimate less than a .25 inch difference in tire diameters which is a 1% difference. It doesn't matter.
I agree with the rec to use 215/70s.
Heng is correct in everything he told you. But the FR78-15 is actually closer in size to a 195/75R15. Heng is also correct that you can't accurately calculate the dimensions of a specific size because production dimensions vary among manufacturers. For example, stand a General G4S next to a Michelin X-One of the same size. The Michelin will look as though it is a whole size larger. Consult the data sheets available at most websites for exact dimensions of specific tires. If you can't find one, ask to see it at the tire dealer. In addition to dimensions, it will also show load capacities and acceptable rim widths. This is an issue if your stock rims are less than 6 inches wide.
I don't know how precise you want this rebuild/restoration to be, but if you are seeking the original 165SR15s, you will have no problem finding them becuase this tire size was O.E. on the ubiquitous old Beetle. However, it would behoove you to purchase a larger, more driveable tire, such as a 205/70R15. I wouldn't recommend anything as large as the 215/70R15, since this is 25% larger than the original 165. If you think your .8 liter is puny with the stock tires, imagine how it will perform with larger tires. If you don't care if it takes you half an hour to go from 0-60mph (if it even goes that fast), most 15" SUV type tires start at size 205/75R15.
My model year came with the Bridgestone FR78-15's (1979) which are still on the trucklet after 21 years. I wouldn't dare take them on the road though. The following model year(1980) came with 165SR15's. I'd like to keep it original so should I go with the 195's? Do they come in a truck tire? If not, will the 205's seriously affect (joke) performance?
I remember when I drove the beast 16 to 21 years ago, I could go 65 mph with a good tail wind and hit 70 if I had a good tail wind and a cliff.
Projectzx3: I totally agree with you.
caprirooster: Michelins are good and the MXV4's will do just fine. I got 70k off my michelin MXV4's.
Back to the original topic: the MXV4 and the X-one are two substantially different tires made for different applications. The current MXV4 is designed for "Luxury Performance Touring." It is most commonly fitted on import cars with MacPherson Struts, twin cam engines, etc. The X-One (also XSE technology) is also touted by Michelin as being a "Performance Touring Tire," but designed more for domestic cars with less precise suspension. It is heavily siped (fine cuts) for outstanding wet and snow traction.
As far as the construction goes, the biggest difference is that in addition to the two steel belts and two nylon plies in the tread, the MXV4 employs a circumfrentially wrapped polyamide belt which helps resist centrifugal force at highway speeds. This is an H rated tire (130mph), as your car requires. It is not a high performance tire like the Pilot, but you will notice the stability advantage even at normal highway speeds.
The X-One is available in the 185/60R14, but more common in the 185/65R14. It is a T rated tire (one step below H). Installing this tire would actually downgrade the performance of your car, BUT... that doesn't mean you can go with it. The 96-up Civics actually come with a 185/65R14 with a speed rating of S (even lower).
Few--who know what they are talking about--will argue that Michelin makes the quietest, softest riding tires out there. These two models represent that company's greatest efforts in this aspect. The difference being that the MXV4 is designed to provide a cloud-like ride for zippy performance sedans which spend a lot of time at way-up-there speeds, whereas the X-One does the same for domestic sedans at a slight sacrifice of performance. The most obvious difference to the consumer is the milieage warranty. The MXV4 carries a 40,000 mile warranty, with a UTQG just over 300. The X-One has a UTQG of 620. Remember that these numbers mean nothing when comparing different manufacturers' tires, but apply to comparisons within the same company. This basically means Michelin expectes the X-Ones to last twice as long as the MXV4s. Tired of reading yet? I type quickly; I can't help it. Anyway, the mileage warranties are set by the retailer--most set the MXV4 at 40K miles, the X-One at 80K. The X-One originally carried a 6 year unlimited mileage warranty, but I haven't seen that advertised recently. However... The X-Radial Plus, marketed by wholesale dealers (Sam's Club, BJ's, Kostco) still carries the unlimited warranty. Under this warranty, if you can burn up the tires in under 3 years, you get a brand new set for absolutely no charge--as long as the treadwear is even, you've had the rotations documented at reasonable intervals, and they show no signs of neglect or abuse. It's prorated for the remaining 6 years.
Final word: MXV4= smooth at very high speeds, better handling, eerily quiet, good rain traction. X-One= smooth at high speeds, good handling, quiet, excellent rain and snow traction.
PS- If you feel too much road shock in your steering wheel, try lowering your pressure a few pounds. Note that if you lower it too much the shoulders will wear excessively (especially if you corner like I do). Don't go below 26 psi.
Ed12- Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Easy one: go with the MXV4 in the V rating.
I'm not knocking old [non-permissible content removed] SUVs. I learned how to drive in an old Mitsubishi Montero. I must say, aside from girls, there were few things in high school which gave me a kick like driving up the concrete steps leading to the library. The coolest thing about that old rig was the artificial horizon indicator on the dash. Like I didn't know when it was on two wheels! I guess I should expect that from a company who made WWII fighter planes for the Japanese Imperial Fleet.
It exists mainly to protect the retailer. For example: when business A sells the X-Radial for $95, and business B sells the X-One for $120, business B can tell Joe Unsuspecting that the X-One is actually a better tire, rather than tell Mr. Unsuspecting the truth: B doesn't buy in the quantities A buys, and therefore can't get the same deal from the manufacturer. If the tires wore the same name, Mr. Unsuspecting might have to change his. But, having neglected to do any research of his own, he's reaching for the soap in the prison shower.
Most tire companies do this. Continental, Pirelli-Armstrong, Kelly-Springfield... not just Michelin. What's the difference between the $55 Kelly-Springfield Wintermark and the $85 Goodyear Ultra-Grip NHV? Thirty-five bucks and the winged foot on the sidewall; ever hear of paying for the name? It doesn't happen frequently with tires, but it does happen.
Just check out the treads when you're suspicious, compare the UTQGs. Don't ignore the obvious.
Buyer beware.
Like you and the Montero, I did some silly stuff in it like driving up the stairs of City Hall to get a pic with friends, or stuffing 9 people in it and driving to school during a blizzard.
Memories.....
By the way, mini-vans are very punishing on tires since their sloppy suspensions really grind the front tires (if you push them).
I never understood the point of minivans. Hmm, give me a chassis with all the handling disadvantages of a truck, drop in the same weak V6 my grandmother had in her LeBaron, then wrap it in sheet metal that begs an answer to the age old question "paper or plastic?" I prefer functionality or pleasure, not a weak compromise. I'm counting the days till SUVs are no longer fashionable among those wingtip-wearing lemings who don't even know the difference between all wheel drive and four wheel drive, and I'll actually be able to pick up a new Silverado for less than the cost of a duplex on Center Street. Looks like station wagons are making a comeback. I say bring it on.
By the way, this car had the frame go out of alignment when it hit a pothole. The frame was fixed, tires (Yokohama's) and OEM steel rims replaced. So coming to to the point of the tires.
Thanks for your help... great info and advise!
I have been told Butler Tires (Roswell Rd), has anyone had any experience there??
There is no question Sam's Club offers the greatest value in in the country on tires, whether 18" for your Porsche, or 8" for your Cub Cadet. Nobody else buys tires in the quantities of parent company Wal-Mart, therefore nobody can sell tires at prices, or honor adjustments, like them.
But as I sat here preaching of the greatness of my employer, I decided it might seem a bit unethical for me to be promoting a company whose profits I benefit from. So, just to support my goal of objectivity, I figured I'd give my audience a taste of the worst-case-scenario bit. You're right, just as there are a lot of true geniuses working on cars, there are complete idiots turning wrenches in just about every auto shop in the country. When it comes down to it, Sam's is no worse than Just Tires, BJ's, or even Sears Automotive. In a specialized shop, the technicians don't need to be ASE certified to be proficient. Just what level that technician achieves depends on his personal attitude. It's a toss up. In the shop in which I work, Easton Pennsylvania, nobody wants to be the shop dummy, so we're constantly in competition to rise above the rest. The result is a shop full of seemingly inexperienced young guys who, through the rapid ingestion of the contents of every resource attainable, have actually taken the science of tires to a level incomprehensible by the slackers in the company's sister shop of the next town. The end result makes us laugh at how sick it is that the customers have no idea as to the level of service they are receiving. We might sometimes take the time to tell them, after a job, how we went the extra mile to match mount their tires, spun and re-spun their tires until they were balanced to within .10 oz, used the factory coated weights so they won't fall off or corrode their alloy wheels through dissimilar metal contact, torqued their lugs exactly to manufacturer's specs, used teflon inserts on the mounting tool so as not to scratch their rims... et cetera. The bottom line is, to me, once I'm done with this gig and move on to something else, I'll have to rely on someone to mount my tires and hope they'll do it the way my guys did. It would make the difference to the point I would pay 50% more to get this kind of service--the ironic thing is we're the cheapest guys in town! The bottom line is, most people don't even care if their wheels are balanced to perfection. They don't care if the tires recommended for their purchase are based on experience and expertise; a tire is a tire. They want free mounting and balancing (even if the jacked-up fees are merely figured in to the cost). They want their tires mounted in a half-hour. All they care about is the mileage warranty and the price. These idiots, of whom I write, can't understand how anyone could possibly consider paying $55 for a 60K mile Michelin when they can pay $35 for a 70K mile General.
After all my raving, my point is this: Sam's Club's prices, either on cheap tires or on premium tires, are the best. The chances are they will handle your car more carefully and professionally than most shops. But for the paranoid persons such as myself, who won't even take his car to Jiffy Lube for fear they might screw up something as rudimentary as an oil change, you can assure they (any tire shop) won't get greasy paws all over your leather steering wheel, warp your rotors by overtorquing, cause your wheels to depart the vehicle from undertorquing, smash your catalytic converter or jack your front end from the tie rod--by simply jacking your car up in the driveway and taking the wheels only (with the weights pulled off and the stem core removed) to the shop to have new tires installed. To most, it's not worth the greasy hands and half-hour of sweaty work for an end result the layman can't perceive. To me, the one who will have to deal with the pulsating brakes and have them resurfaced on the chance it might be Joe Tiremonkey's first day using an impact tool, it's worth it. But as you noted, Joe Tiremonkey isn't exclusive to Sam's Club. He's employed by every tire retailer in the country.
PS- I noticed you drive a new LHS. If you have the 225/60R16s, I'd recommend the Michelin X-Radial Plus if you want long mileage, the Mich. MXV4 Plus if you want a sporter ride, or the Mich. Symmetry if you don't want to break the bank on a tire purchase. If you have the 17's, there isn't yet a tire made in your size which I would recommend to anyone.
recommended for their purchase are based on
experience and expertise."
What I meand was, "they don't care if the recommendations are based on..."
Recommendations, not tires, are based on experience. Whereas tires are based mostly on halo-butyl or silica compounds. Oops.
Its my local sam's... I was happy to hear that
you can order almost any tire also.
My Brother in Law was having problems
finding tires for his 750il I don't remember the
size I know they were 17's but he found this out with you guys.
Anyway just thought I would let ya know
I do know enough about tires to rotate, balance and keep them properly inflated. My tire gauge compensates for differences in ambient temperature. It reads true gauge presure. I also don't exceed the original "T" rated tires speed of 118 MPH. Yes,the new minivans hold the road very well at over 100mph.
I didn't mean to imply that all minivan owners are car-unconscious; I'm sure there are a lot of minivan drivers out there whose intelligence on such matters as auto techology far exceeds that of yours truly. I merely meant that even the new ones are extremely unforgiving with regards to tire maintenance, and based on the observations of my experience in Eastern Pennsylvania, most minivan owners are not obsessive auto enthusiasts who check their treadwear with a pyrometer. But it is wrong of me to generalize. A front-wheel drive sportless utility vehicle doesn't appeal to me, sub-ten second 0-60 times notwithstanding. But I'm sure a doorless, roofless, seatbeltless, a/c and heatless, radioless, stentorian loud, 180 mph reaching, sub-THREE second 0-60ing, 600 lb., quadruple carburated, two-wheeled, Kawi ZX-11D wouldn't appeal to many as a suitable primary mode of transportation, either. For me, while I was stationed in Los Angeles (actually Tustin), it was perfect.
I apologize to you and all minivaneers the world over who peruse the text of this forum for any remarks you may find blasphemous. Though I still rank minivans on the coolness scale just ahead of mopeds, that's just my opinion--and, last I checked, I think that's what we're all here to share.
-Chris
BTW, I survived 3 motorcycles and 2 sports cars and 1 "muscle" car. I learned about tires from those vehicles. Best tires I ever owned were Pirelli P7000s (on a Nissan 240SX).
-Chris
Thanks. Any advice welcomed.
Ineed Tires