Have you recently purchased a new car or are you trying to and struggling to find affordable options? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to [email protected] by 5/26 for more details.

Tires, tires, tires

alextalext Member Posts: 63
I'm looking for some quality tires with good wet
weather traction for my VW Cabriolet. They're 185
60 series 14's and I'm looking for the same. I
really like Pirelli's, the P4000's are nice and
also inexpensive. But the P6000's have a very nice
aquachannel and look more attractive. But they're
$100 more. ANyn\body know if it's it worth it to
pay more for the aquachannel? I live in L.A., and
although it doesn't rain much during the summer,
winter can be hell on wheels with very slick


  • shabutshabut Member Posts: 1
    I have a sunfire GT and they have p205 55 R16 tire size what is a good tire for this car?
  • enigma23enigma23 Member Posts: 36

    It depends on what you are looking for. Performance, winter traction, all-season traction, quiet ride, high treadwear, etc.

    WHat are you looking for???
  • tfisch100tfisch100 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a new Toyota van. The dealer upgraded the tires to Michelin X-ones. The tires are whitewalls mounted black-side out. The problem is that there is a plastic UPC code on the blackwall side. Can I tear this UPC code off or will it damage the tire? SHould I go back and demand backwall tires so I dno't have to look at the sticker?

    Thanks for suggestions/opinions.
  • vac23vac23 Member Posts: 118
    You should be able to remove the sticker from the tire. They are only on the tire to help keep inventory etc... If it was meant to be on the tire permanantly, they would've embedded it into the tire instead of using a sticker.
  • hondaguy99hondaguy99 Member Posts: 1
    Just purchased 4 new studded snows yesterday. I ended up with 4 Gislaved Nord Frost II snows. The guy at the store told me these were great tires and I've seen some similar comments on the net in a few places. Anyone have any experience with these Swedish made tires? Also, please advise of any good web sites that might be able to give me more insight. Thanks.
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    your car at speeds of 120+ MPH., dg?

    Sounds like a good deal...Alignment included too.. Those gov't ratings for wear, temperature, and traction may help you. I've not heard or read any negative comments about their tires.
  • wilcoxwilcox Member Posts: 582
    Just had set put on Toyota Camry...they track nicely and balance up nice too. NTB was vendor. They are a little more expensive thanTire Rack....The old lady likes em...If she's happy then I'm happy.
  • sosterhubersosterhuber Member Posts: 5
    Pep Boys Tires used to be manufactured by Kelly Springfield. Don't know if they still are or not. Ask one of their tire guys, they know. Comparison shop at your local Kelly/Springfield Tire store for additional info. I used Pep Boys tires on my commuter car for years, held up OK.
  • mmcbride1mmcbride1 Member Posts: 861
    They will match/beat anyones prices, you can get the roadside warranty for as long as you own the tires (not just 3 years, like Big O does), and I have had very pleasant experiences with them. I haven't heard anything, good or bad, about Pep Boys tires.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Has one of the best warranties on the market. I was driving a rental vehicle when it developed a flat. Discount Tire fixed it at no charge. It seems that if you buy a tire from them, your name is in their computer, and any vehicle you drive, the tires are covered. They made me, a customer for life.
  • marbymarby Member Posts: 34
  • geowonggeowong Member Posts: 1
    Several years back, I bought a set of four tires from Discount Tires Store. A month later, one of my tires developed a bubble on the side wall. Discount Tires Store replace it alright, BUT THEY CHARGED ME FOR A NEW HAZZARD WARRANTY, A NEW BALANCE ON THE REPLACEMENT TIRE. What was good was the hazzard warranty on the original purchase? Since then, I bought my tires from SAM's wholesale club. At SAMS's if you bought the hazzard warranty and the tire develops a defect - any defect including puncture by road debris, as long as your old tire has measureable tread life remaining, your new replacement tire is pro rated and the ENTIRE COST OF A NEW HAZZARD WARRANTY AND TIRE BALANCE IS FULLY TRANSFERRED TO THE REPLACEMENT TIRE AT NO COST TO YOU! I've had this warranty replacement done about four times already and each time the same thing happens. I only buy my tires from SAM's Wholesale club since the first incident. I've never been back to Discount Tires ever again.
  • podie1956podie1956 Member Posts: 5
    I used Discount Tires a few times with new problems. Then I needed to buy new tires and called them for a quote. They gave me one, and I then got a quote from Tire Kingdom, who many of my friends recommended. It was much lower than Discount. When I called Discount back to tell them that, they said they would meet Tire Kingdom's price. I went to Discount Tires (several miles PAST Tire Kingdom) and they said no way they would meet that price, no matter who told me they would on the phone. That was it for me. Never again.
  • mcgreenxmcgreenx Member Posts: 179
    I belong to Sam's but never bought tires (or other car stuff) there. How do they handle installation, balance, alignment, rotation, or do they? If they do some or all of those things, is there an extra charge or included in the tire price?
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    If you're a member of Sam's and you don't buy tires there you are missing out on the best part of your membership. Most clubs don't do alignments, but the mounting, balancing, rotation (with rebalancing), road hazard warranty, new stems, and disposal fee is all included in their installation fee which is usually $6-$8 depending on the venue. The funny thing about this road hazard warranty: it covers everything, including slashed sidewalls. If they can't patch the tire (as they do for free) they'll give you a pro-rata refund toward a new tire. Here's the kicker--Sam's sells tires from in-stock $20 13" to special order $600 20". Whereas most tire shops will either charge $20+ or a significant percentage of the cost of the tire for road hazard protection, Sam's charges the same flat fee, regardless of the price of the tire. Paying $7.50 for full road hazard protection on a $20 is a decent deal, but on a $100, $200... paying that nominal fee can save you a few Franklins.
    They rotate and balance the tires for free every 7K miles. The computerized balancers they use are mostly top-notch, FMC 7 and 8 series, which, in the hands of a trained technician, accurately balance your tires to .10 oz.
    Yeah, I work at Sam's :-)
    One final thought: Buy Michelins.
    Okay, two final thoughts: if you have locking lug nuts, please don't make the guy dig through your glove box/trunk/etc. to find it. We really hate that.
    email me if you have any other questions
    [email protected]
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Oh, and just to let everyone know I'm not soliciting or advertising for Sam's Club, I'm just being completely honest. Sam's is the cheapest place to buy tires. Now, to continue with the honesty... after working there for four years I've learned that most of the shops across the country are staffed with either people who don't plan on staying there for more than six months or people who have been there for ten years becuase they don't have the intelligence to pass the ASE exam and become real mechanics. I would never take my car to Sam's to get tires. They'll probably smash your muffler lifting it and tighten your lugs either too much or too little. Play it safe. Put your car up on jack stands in the driveway, throw the rims in the back of your station wagon and hand over four hard-to-screw-up wheels rather than your $20,000 automobile.
    However, chances are your car will be handled in a professional manner, but this is just what I'd do. In some shops they actually hold themselves to a higher standard than a Lexus dealership, using coated weights and balancing wheels better than they were off the assembly line. In a company as large as that, you get all kinds.
    But this doesn't only go for Sam's, it goes for every retail tire shop where they hire guys off the street with little or no experience, where a "good" applicant is a human being who has held less than four jobs in the past year, has had no felony convictions, and is willing to work Sundays. Buyer beware.
  • ed12ed12 Member Posts: 100

    I have Michelin XGT V-4 tires, 225-60 R16.. What would you recommend that would give a smoother and quieter ride?

  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    I bet you'll find out that your Buick ends up eating those tires. I doubt the suspension has enough control built in to prevent rolling onto the outside corners and chewing them up.

    I also live in the northeast and that size rubber is worthless is any kind of snow.
  • fredlyfredly Member Posts: 201
    dgemini, your getting ripped at those prices,
    I just bought 4 G Force KDW, for 103 a piece. But
    its a much better tire than what come on it stock.
    if you want a stock tire, get the BF goodrich VR4 you can get them at 69 a piece from TireRack.

    Additional Comments on Sam's Club. If they don't have a tire you want, "They Can Order it for you!"
    My brother wanted a certain tire for his BMW, and they said sure we can order any tire you want, you don't have to take their discount tires. And the price on those BMW tires he was looking for was better than he saw anywhere else.
  • olegphilolegphil Member Posts: 30
    Are they any good? How do they compare to the
    cheapest Michelins that are available at SAM's
  • olegphilolegphil Member Posts: 30
    I'm looking for tires for my wife's Corolla and it appeares that my choices in 13" are singnificantly limited, even comparing to '96 when I bought the current set of Michelin X-Radials. Any suggestions?
  • loyolaloyola Member Posts: 26
    The comp T/A ZR tires are highly recommended...
    quiet, outstanding dry/wet traction, but expensive
    and wears fast (200 treadwear rating, please correct me if I'm wrong). Believe me,I"ve been using them on my 92 Camry with 17" Fittipaldi Polaris wheels since 1996. I tried 225/45ZR17 and 235/45ZR17 with both oustanding results but I will say again,,, EXPENSIVE! Discount Tire charges me
    around $170 per on the 235's. For a pair, installed, balanced, tax...totals almost $380.

    If you want the same ultra-hi performance as the
    comp T/A try the FALKEN ZE-502 (300 treadwear!)
    they only 117 each and total job costs for a pair
    is (drum roll!!) ....$270 down here in San Diego.
    A savings of $100.

    Try them at falkentire.com
  • akashinoakashino Member Posts: 36
    I'm rebuilding a 1979 Suzuki LJ80 4x4. Sucker has a .8 litre (Yes, a POINT EIGHT Litre) 4 cylinder, but even weirder is the tire size.

    The tire size is FR78-15. I think the 15 is the rim size, but what the heck is the FR78????

    Can anybody tell me what replacement size I need????

    Thanks in advance !!!!
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    Man that brings back memories! FR78-15s, I doubt those were the originals on that Suzuki because that is what I had on a '78 Olds Omega (same as Chevy Nova) and it was a 3500 lb car.

    15 is the rim size as you figured out, 78 is the sidewall ratio (like 70, 60, 65, etc), F is the load rating and R means its a radial. Any tire dealer can give you the translation to modern tire sizing. But somewhere in your car should be a sticker giving the tire size the mfgr put on.
  • akashinoakashino Member Posts: 36
    The Suzuki Service Manual mentions that the 1979 model came with FR78-15's and the 1980 model came with 165SR15's.

    What does your memory tell you (or anyone for that matter) what a 165SR15 means??????

    Thanx in advance.
  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    The 165 is the width (ie 205), 15 is the rim, S is the speed rating, R means radial. It probably is an 80 aspect ratio (ie 78 on the FRs).

    Akashino - you shouldn't calculate the diameters since 2 manufacturers of the same size tire would have different diameters. You need the mfgr's number for the specific tire. But if you just want to estimate the difference, I also estimate less than a .25 inch difference in tire diameters which is a 1% difference. It doesn't matter.

    I agree with the rec to use 215/70s.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Heng is correct in everything he told you. But the FR78-15 is actually closer in size to a 195/75R15. Heng is also correct that you can't accurately calculate the dimensions of a specific size because production dimensions vary among manufacturers. For example, stand a General G4S next to a Michelin X-One of the same size. The Michelin will look as though it is a whole size larger. Consult the data sheets available at most websites for exact dimensions of specific tires. If you can't find one, ask to see it at the tire dealer. In addition to dimensions, it will also show load capacities and acceptable rim widths. This is an issue if your stock rims are less than 6 inches wide.
    I don't know how precise you want this rebuild/restoration to be, but if you are seeking the original 165SR15s, you will have no problem finding them becuase this tire size was O.E. on the ubiquitous old Beetle. However, it would behoove you to purchase a larger, more driveable tire, such as a 205/70R15. I wouldn't recommend anything as large as the 215/70R15, since this is 25% larger than the original 165. If you think your .8 liter is puny with the stock tires, imagine how it will perform with larger tires. If you don't care if it takes you half an hour to go from 0-60mph (if it even goes that fast), most 15" SUV type tires start at size 205/75R15.
  • akashinoakashino Member Posts: 36
    Thanks for the info!

    My model year came with the Bridgestone FR78-15's (1979) which are still on the trucklet after 21 years. I wouldn't dare take them on the road though. The following model year(1980) came with 165SR15's. I'd like to keep it original so should I go with the 195's? Do they come in a truck tire? If not, will the 205's seriously affect (joke) performance?

    I remember when I drove the beast 16 to 21 years ago, I could go 65 mph with a good tail wind and hit 70 if I had a good tail wind and a cliff.
  • xorbtantxorbtant Member Posts: 37
    Loyola: you got ripped off! and Falken? Why don't you just go buy a set of k mart tires while you are at it.
    Projectzx3: I totally agree with you.
    caprirooster: Michelins are good and the MXV4's will do just fine. I got 70k off my michelin MXV4's.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Let me first give a brief MXV4 history lesson to clear up any confusion at the tire shop. The MXV4 was first produced around 1990 and is now old news. You won't find it in tire stores. The Energy MXV4 was the next generation which incorporated the XSE Technology (utilized a silica compound which offered reduced reduced rolling resistance, better flexibility at low temperatures, etc.). It's still available, but is being replaced by the Energy MXV4 Plus. This is basically the same tire with a slightly different tread pattern which is supposed to be lighter (giving better braking and acceleration) without sacrificing treadwear.
    Back to the original topic: the MXV4 and the X-one are two substantially different tires made for different applications. The current MXV4 is designed for "Luxury Performance Touring." It is most commonly fitted on import cars with MacPherson Struts, twin cam engines, etc. The X-One (also XSE technology) is also touted by Michelin as being a "Performance Touring Tire," but designed more for domestic cars with less precise suspension. It is heavily siped (fine cuts) for outstanding wet and snow traction.
    As far as the construction goes, the biggest difference is that in addition to the two steel belts and two nylon plies in the tread, the MXV4 employs a circumfrentially wrapped polyamide belt which helps resist centrifugal force at highway speeds. This is an H rated tire (130mph), as your car requires. It is not a high performance tire like the Pilot, but you will notice the stability advantage even at normal highway speeds.
    The X-One is available in the 185/60R14, but more common in the 185/65R14. It is a T rated tire (one step below H). Installing this tire would actually downgrade the performance of your car, BUT... that doesn't mean you can go with it. The 96-up Civics actually come with a 185/65R14 with a speed rating of S (even lower).
    Few--who know what they are talking about--will argue that Michelin makes the quietest, softest riding tires out there. These two models represent that company's greatest efforts in this aspect. The difference being that the MXV4 is designed to provide a cloud-like ride for zippy performance sedans which spend a lot of time at way-up-there speeds, whereas the X-One does the same for domestic sedans at a slight sacrifice of performance. The most obvious difference to the consumer is the milieage warranty. The MXV4 carries a 40,000 mile warranty, with a UTQG just over 300. The X-One has a UTQG of 620. Remember that these numbers mean nothing when comparing different manufacturers' tires, but apply to comparisons within the same company. This basically means Michelin expectes the X-Ones to last twice as long as the MXV4s. Tired of reading yet? I type quickly; I can't help it. Anyway, the mileage warranties are set by the retailer--most set the MXV4 at 40K miles, the X-One at 80K. The X-One originally carried a 6 year unlimited mileage warranty, but I haven't seen that advertised recently. However... The X-Radial Plus, marketed by wholesale dealers (Sam's Club, BJ's, Kostco) still carries the unlimited warranty. Under this warranty, if you can burn up the tires in under 3 years, you get a brand new set for absolutely no charge--as long as the treadwear is even, you've had the rotations documented at reasonable intervals, and they show no signs of neglect or abuse. It's prorated for the remaining 6 years.
    Final word: MXV4= smooth at very high speeds, better handling, eerily quiet, good rain traction. X-One= smooth at high speeds, good handling, quiet, excellent rain and snow traction.
    PS- If you feel too much road shock in your steering wheel, try lowering your pressure a few pounds. Note that if you lower it too much the shoulders will wear excessively (especially if you corner like I do). Don't go below 26 psi.

    Ed12- Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. Easy one: go with the MXV4 in the V rating.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Yes, they do make REALLY light truck P195/7R15 tires. You'll most likely have to special order one. The Michelin LTX M/S is the only tire I know of which is available in this size, but I must say I have never, ever seen one. Your best bet will most likely be to go with an aggressive P205/70R15 M+S tire. This will be the same diameter as a 195/75, but a smidge wider. Or, if you can find a 195 M+S (all-season) which floats your boat, go with it. You don't NEED a truck tire as far as basic functionality is concerned. But if you actually plan to take this thing in the brush, start looking for an LTX--and a winch or a buddy with a CJ-7 :-) Mudding can't be too entertaining with an 800cc engine. I've had cycles with bigger engines that that, man. Jeez.
    I'm not knocking old [non-permissible content removed] SUVs. I learned how to drive in an old Mitsubishi Montero. I must say, aside from girls, there were few things in high school which gave me a kick like driving up the concrete steps leading to the library. The coolest thing about that old rig was the artificial horizon indicator on the dash. Like I didn't know when it was on two wheels! I guess I should expect that from a company who made WWII fighter planes for the Japanese Imperial Fleet.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Oh, I forgot to mention-- the X Radial Plus found at Sam's and BJ's is identical to the X-One, but with a different name to hinder price-matching (a corporate conspiracy existing just to make our lives more complicated).
    It exists mainly to protect the retailer. For example: when business A sells the X-Radial for $95, and business B sells the X-One for $120, business B can tell Joe Unsuspecting that the X-One is actually a better tire, rather than tell Mr. Unsuspecting the truth: B doesn't buy in the quantities A buys, and therefore can't get the same deal from the manufacturer. If the tires wore the same name, Mr. Unsuspecting might have to change his. But, having neglected to do any research of his own, he's reaching for the soap in the prison shower.
    Most tire companies do this. Continental, Pirelli-Armstrong, Kelly-Springfield... not just Michelin. What's the difference between the $55 Kelly-Springfield Wintermark and the $85 Goodyear Ultra-Grip NHV? Thirty-five bucks and the winged foot on the sidewall; ever hear of paying for the name? It doesn't happen frequently with tires, but it does happen.
    Just check out the treads when you're suspicious, compare the UTQGs. Don't ignore the obvious.
    Buyer beware.
  • akashinoakashino Member Posts: 36
    I'm going after the 205's. I think you're right about getting the aggressive tread. As for mudding, the little thing has a 4 wheel low setup on the transfer case and does a pretty good imitation of a mountain goat from past experience. Helps when the thing is made up of sheet metal and aluminum and weighs next to nothing.

    Like you and the Montero, I did some silly stuff in it like driving up the stairs of City Hall to get a pic with friends, or stuffing 9 people in it and driving to school during a blizzard.

  • hengheng Member Posts: 411
    I've had a couple sets of each on various cars and a mini-van. I couldn't tell the difference between them by driving them. So I'd go for the higher wear rating. By the way, tread wear was more a function of suspension condition than anything. I wore a set of Xplus's out (more than 75% gone at 20K miles) on an older car, while 20K has gone by on a minivan that just crossed 50K and they have 70% left.

    By the way, mini-vans are very punishing on tires since their sloppy suspensions really grind the front tires (if you push them).
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    I had suspected your car might have come with the 65s. The 185/60 was a rare OE fitment for the mid 90s Civics. If you go with the MXV4 (I would), and still the handling of a 60 series tire, go with a 195/60R14. The 185 you have on now is a smaller tire and might be contributing to your vibration problem--which intrigues me. It's unusual that you are feeling road vibration with your tires aired down below 30psi. Perhaps the root of your problem is not the road, but vibration caused by misalignment or imbalance. If your front end is not out of whack and the tires are balanced properly, the MXV4s will make you feel as though you're sailing across a glass lake as you cruise down the freeway. I wouldn't recommend the Dunlops. No tire maker goes to the lengths of Michelin to create a tire which offers such a precision ride. Something as small as having one contiunally wrapped nylon cap at a 1 degree angle might create a miniscule shimmy. Michelin has actually gone to the extent of spirally wrapping their polyamide belt at zero degrees to travel (BAZ technology). The only other brand I know of who does this is Pirelli, with their P-Zero (a very high performance tire). But Pirelli does not make a decent tire for this application, so don't allow me to confuse your options even more.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Yeah, fwd minivans are murder on tires, especially if you don't rotate them. It's funny how brainless some people are. Countless customers have come into my shop to buy two tires for their less than two year old minivan becuase they "must have got a bad batch on the front," they say. Amazing how the front tires are down to the steel but the back tires are like brand new. Granted they never rotated them or checked the pressure after driving 20K miles, but you don't need to do that, right? Tires don't need any maintenance, they're just rubber. Sure.
    I never understood the point of minivans. Hmm, give me a chassis with all the handling disadvantages of a truck, drop in the same weak V6 my grandmother had in her LeBaron, then wrap it in sheet metal that begs an answer to the age old question "paper or plastic?" I prefer functionality or pleasure, not a weak compromise. I'm counting the days till SUVs are no longer fashionable among those wingtip-wearing lemings who don't even know the difference between all wheel drive and four wheel drive, and I'll actually be able to pick up a new Silverado for less than the cost of a duplex on Center Street. Looks like station wagons are making a comeback. I say bring it on.
  • capriroostercaprirooster Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for your thoughts. I had earlier have someone check on my tires (put the car on the lift and spun the drive wheels at 30mph), it seems that they are out of round. I had went back to NTB and have them price the Michelin's Energy MXV4 Plus but they (NTB) want their technicians to put the tires on the balance machine. That will be done tomorrow.

    By the way, this car had the frame go out of alignment when it hit a pothole. The frame was fixed, tires (Yokohama's) and OEM steel rims replaced. So coming to to the point of the tires.

    Thanks for your help... great info and advise!
  • mcgreenxmcgreenx Member Posts: 179
    I posted #17 in February and for some reason didn't get back to look for responses until now!! Probably because I don't need new tires yet. You are obviously knowledgeable about tires, but your two responses immediately following my post confused me. You rave about Sam's prices and equipment, but then said you would never take your car there. I am not able (or interested) in mounting my own tires, so I have to take my car somewhere (hey, man, everybody's got to be somewhere), like Just Tires or NTB. Are they all the same, so Sam's is not worse than anywhere else, or would you avoid Sam's and go elsewhere, and, if so, where? I'd like your input, you seem to know what you are talking about.
  • capriroostercaprirooster Member Posts: 21
    Does anyone here know of any competent tire stores that can balance tires and determine if the tires are out-of-round and such in the metro Atlanta area besides NTB??

    I have been told Butler Tires (Roswell Rd), has anyone had any experience there??
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    There is no question Sam's Club offers the greatest value in in the country on tires, whether 18" for your Porsche, or 8" for your Cub Cadet. Nobody else buys tires in the quantities of parent company Wal-Mart, therefore nobody can sell tires at prices, or honor adjustments, like them.
    But as I sat here preaching of the greatness of my employer, I decided it might seem a bit unethical for me to be promoting a company whose profits I benefit from. So, just to support my goal of objectivity, I figured I'd give my audience a taste of the worst-case-scenario bit. You're right, just as there are a lot of true geniuses working on cars, there are complete idiots turning wrenches in just about every auto shop in the country. When it comes down to it, Sam's is no worse than Just Tires, BJ's, or even Sears Automotive. In a specialized shop, the technicians don't need to be ASE certified to be proficient. Just what level that technician achieves depends on his personal attitude. It's a toss up. In the shop in which I work, Easton Pennsylvania, nobody wants to be the shop dummy, so we're constantly in competition to rise above the rest. The result is a shop full of seemingly inexperienced young guys who, through the rapid ingestion of the contents of every resource attainable, have actually taken the science of tires to a level incomprehensible by the slackers in the company's sister shop of the next town. The end result makes us laugh at how sick it is that the customers have no idea as to the level of service they are receiving. We might sometimes take the time to tell them, after a job, how we went the extra mile to match mount their tires, spun and re-spun their tires until they were balanced to within .10 oz, used the factory coated weights so they won't fall off or corrode their alloy wheels through dissimilar metal contact, torqued their lugs exactly to manufacturer's specs, used teflon inserts on the mounting tool so as not to scratch their rims... et cetera. The bottom line is, to me, once I'm done with this gig and move on to something else, I'll have to rely on someone to mount my tires and hope they'll do it the way my guys did. It would make the difference to the point I would pay 50% more to get this kind of service--the ironic thing is we're the cheapest guys in town! The bottom line is, most people don't even care if their wheels are balanced to perfection. They don't care if the tires recommended for their purchase are based on experience and expertise; a tire is a tire. They want free mounting and balancing (even if the jacked-up fees are merely figured in to the cost). They want their tires mounted in a half-hour. All they care about is the mileage warranty and the price. These idiots, of whom I write, can't understand how anyone could possibly consider paying $55 for a 60K mile Michelin when they can pay $35 for a 70K mile General.
    After all my raving, my point is this: Sam's Club's prices, either on cheap tires or on premium tires, are the best. The chances are they will handle your car more carefully and professionally than most shops. But for the paranoid persons such as myself, who won't even take his car to Jiffy Lube for fear they might screw up something as rudimentary as an oil change, you can assure they (any tire shop) won't get greasy paws all over your leather steering wheel, warp your rotors by overtorquing, cause your wheels to depart the vehicle from undertorquing, smash your catalytic converter or jack your front end from the tie rod--by simply jacking your car up in the driveway and taking the wheels only (with the weights pulled off and the stem core removed) to the shop to have new tires installed. To most, it's not worth the greasy hands and half-hour of sweaty work for an end result the layman can't perceive. To me, the one who will have to deal with the pulsating brakes and have them resurfaced on the chance it might be Joe Tiremonkey's first day using an impact tool, it's worth it. But as you noted, Joe Tiremonkey isn't exclusive to Sam's Club. He's employed by every tire retailer in the country.
    PS- I noticed you drive a new LHS. If you have the 225/60R16s, I'd recommend the Michelin X-Radial Plus if you want long mileage, the Mich. MXV4 Plus if you want a sporter ride, or the Mich. Symmetry if you don't want to break the bank on a tire purchase. If you have the 17's, there isn't yet a tire made in your size which I would recommend to anyone.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    "They don't care if the tires
    recommended for their purchase are based on
    experience and expertise."
    What I meand was, "they don't care if the recommendations are based on..."
    Recommendations, not tires, are based on experience. Whereas tires are based mostly on halo-butyl or silica compounds. Oops.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Any tire shop with a balancer, no matter how incompenent the technician, can determine if a tire is out of round by observing the runout of the tire (with respect to any runout in the rim) as it spins on the machine. If pronounced to the point where it actually annoys the heck out of you, you can probably see it yourself just by jacking the car and spinning the wheel(s). Few tires are "perfectly" round, but if you notice a difference in rise (runout) greater than 1/4", you have likely pinpointed the source of your vibrations.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    Geez, now I can't even spell "incompetent." I think my computer is busted.
  • fredlyfredly Member Posts: 201
    Tireguy, I'm impressed by the easton sam's
    Its my local sam's... I was happy to hear that
    you can order almost any tire also.
    My Brother in Law was having problems
    finding tires for his 750il I don't remember the
    size I know they were 17's but he found this out with you guys.

    Anyway just thought I would let ya know
  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    You may want to re-evaluate your impression of minivans. They now have over 200 Hp, independent suspension, and are much more aerodynamic. They have 0-60 times in the 10 second range. As for "paper or plastic" what auto made after 1990 wouldn't that apply to ? There are literally millions of satisfied minivan customers out there. I am one.
    I do know enough about tires to rotate, balance and keep them properly inflated. My tire gauge compensates for differences in ambient temperature. It reads true gauge presure. I also don't exceed the original "T" rated tires speed of 118 MPH. Yes,the new minivans hold the road very well at over 100mph.
  • tireguytireguy Member Posts: 200
    You're right. Modern minivans do deliver a great deal of the practical utility found in a S.U.V., while still providing sedan-like handling and gas mileage. My aversion is rooted back in the early years of my driving, when the vehicles in my parents' inventory included a tire-smoking, 5 speed, 16 valve Mazda, (which was brand new and mostly off-limits) and an early Dodge Caravan, which, though trendy when they bought it, just didn't cut it in the high school parking lot (though wasn't so bad at the drive-in).
    I didn't mean to imply that all minivan owners are car-unconscious; I'm sure there are a lot of minivan drivers out there whose intelligence on such matters as auto techology far exceeds that of yours truly. I merely meant that even the new ones are extremely unforgiving with regards to tire maintenance, and based on the observations of my experience in Eastern Pennsylvania, most minivan owners are not obsessive auto enthusiasts who check their treadwear with a pyrometer. But it is wrong of me to generalize. A front-wheel drive sportless utility vehicle doesn't appeal to me, sub-ten second 0-60 times notwithstanding. But I'm sure a doorless, roofless, seatbeltless, a/c and heatless, radioless, stentorian loud, 180 mph reaching, sub-THREE second 0-60ing, 600 lb., quadruple carburated, two-wheeled, Kawi ZX-11D wouldn't appeal to many as a suitable primary mode of transportation, either. For me, while I was stationed in Los Angeles (actually Tustin), it was perfect.
    I apologize to you and all minivaneers the world over who peruse the text of this forum for any remarks you may find blasphemous. Though I still rank minivans on the coolness scale just ahead of mopeds, that's just my opinion--and, last I checked, I think that's what we're all here to share.
  • ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    actually, mopeds are ahead of minivans on the coolness scale... :)

  • pat84pat84 Member Posts: 817
    My van is quite cool, what with dual a/c - much more so than an 1100cc Kawasaki, or a moped.
    BTW, I survived 3 motorcycles and 2 sports cars and 1 "muscle" car. I learned about tires from those vehicles. Best tires I ever owned were Pirelli P7000s (on a Nissan 240SX).
  • ccotenjccotenj Member Posts: 610
    :) good one...

  • ineedtiresineedtires Member Posts: 2
    Hi. I have a 95 Acura that's running great but needs a new set of tires. My priorities are safety, all season, quiet ride (for an Acura), and price. Which tires are best?

    Thanks. Any advice welcomed.

    Ineed Tires
Sign In or Register to comment.