Tires, tires, tires



  • carnut00carnut00 Posts: 1
    Hello all Aurora owners. #1, is it normal that the original tires on this car,which has 42 000 km,are very worn, they are Michelin tires?? (it was purchased used) What do you suggest replacing them with??? Suggestions please, not cheap or expensive, something reasonable. Thanks :o)
  • akashinoakashino Posts: 36
    I'm restoring a car that has been in a garage out of the elements for 13 years. The tire look fine but I wanted some opinions on whether to use them or not, specifically for mainly city driving once I get this puppy on the road.

    No cracking, bulging, or leaks are visible.

    Thanks in advance.
  • macarthur2macarthur2 Posts: 135
    I have had Bridgestone RE 930's recommended to me as being good wet or dry, quiet, smooth riding. I'll be trying a set on my 95 Mazda 626 and will let you know.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    I think X-ones would be a good choice for your mini-van. Going with the optional size and X-ones you should notice a handling improvement. Not a huge improvement but a noticeble one. X-ones will not be a mistake. Your GC's handling is limited by the mini-van suspension.
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    i wouldn't use them... they *may* be ok... but sometimes the symptoms of dry rot aren't seen...

  • ljuiiljuii Posts: 6
    Hey Tireguy - Great Responses on the Michelins. For everybody else, my last car was a Ford Tempo which I last drove on Michelin X-One's and the were EXCELLENT! (Quiet and no hydroplaning) PLUS, I drove 60,000 miles over two years on them, wore them out and got a FREE set due to the 6 yr/60,000 mile warranty. If you're doing high mileage, I'd check them out as Michelin will stand by their warranty if you have maintenance documented.

    Now for my question to Tireguy, I now own a '99 Mustang GT Convert. w/ 36,000 miles. The stock 245/45r17 Goodyear Z45's are to the wear bars and require replacement(oh, by the way the SUCK). I am trying to decide between the Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 and the Pilot Sport. My priorities are #1 - Quiet ride (High priority), #2 - Comfort, #3 - wet/snow traction (I live in Michigan) I do not care about high performance cornering/racing, but I do a lot of highway driving on concrete and therefore I'd be willing to give up a little bit to have a quiet ride. What's your recommendation?
  • michealwmichealw Posts: 1
    I need your advice.

    I just bought a used 1997 Mercury Tracer to
    replace my 1991 Ford Escort; I'll have the
    Escort for a short while longer. I think the
    tires on the Escort are superior to those on
    the Tracer, but I don't know if I can, or
    should, switch them.

    The Escort has 4 Kelly Navigator 800S steel-
    belted radial P185/70R13/85S tires with about
    10,000 miles on them. The tread on the front
    tires is about 1/4", 5/16" on the rears.

    The Tracer has P185/65R14/85S tires. The front
    tires are a Goodyear and a Conquest GL with
    about 3/16" of tread; the rear tires are Dunlop
    SP20FE's with about 1/4" of tread. I don't know
    the mileage on the tires, but the vehicle
    itself has about 27,000 miles. The rear tires
    look fairly new.

    What do you recommend?
  • ccotenjccotenj Posts: 610
    they aren't the same diameter (13 vs. 14). they won't fit.

    you'd have to switch the wheels too. and i have NO idea whether the wheels from one would fit on the other. offset is likely different. and so on.

  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    Switching the tires would be a mistake. Even if the rims would fit, you would sacrifice a considerable measurement of handling by downgrading from a 14" to a 13" wheel. The tires with 1/4" (2/32" before completely shot) certainly aren't worth putting on a new car, and the other tires, though still near new, aren't exactly premium tires. There are a lot of decent tires available in the 185/65R14 which would handle considerably better than the 13" Kellys you are considering swapping in. With the 97 Tracer, you can upsize to the 195/65R14 (approx. 5% bigger all around) which will offer comfort similar to a 185/65 with enhanced cornering and braking. If you want performance, you can install 195/60HR14, which are the same diameter as the OE tires, but with stiffer sidewalls, 10mm wider tread, and usually less treadlife. Optimum fitment: Michelin X-One/X-Radial Plus. Decent alternative (less $--usually): BF Goodrich Advantage Plus/Excentia, or Bridgestone Potenza RE-92(unless it costs more than the Michelin at your dealer).
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    The Pilot XGT Z4 is an outstanding all-season tire for any northern performance vehicle. It incorporates just about every goodie out of Michelin's bag-o-tricks. Though awesome in the slush and snow (by comparison to its competition), I'm sorry to say you won't be allowed to sacrifice any handling with this choice. You're pretty much stuck with true athletic prowess in every aspect. If you really want to sacrifice some handling for the sake of a nice highway ride, you'll have to buy some 16" rims and mount 225/60TR16 X-Ones. But I don't think you want to do that. The only sacrifice you'll make with the XGT Z4s is treadlife. Oh, and I hope you don't mind paying roughly the same price for one tire on the 'Stang as for all four on the Tempo.
    The Pilot Sports are just that, sporty. They won't give you near the wet/snow traction of the XGT Z4s.
    Cool car--quite an upgrade from your previous ride.
    Option #2: buy some BF Goodrich Comp T/A ZRs for almost half the price, then buy some 15" steel rims for the winter. Mount some 215/70R15 snow tires (or Michelin all-season) for the winter. The benefit: nice, normal highway ride with good snow traction in the winter; awesome, non-siped performance in the summer **and** your pretty 17" alloy wheels never get exposed to rock salt. Of course it'll handle like an LX, but most can tough it out for the bitter months. You can buy used steel rims cheap.
  • ljuiiljuii Posts: 6
    Thanks for the nice response tireguy - I knew you'd have the skinny. I think I'll go with the XGT-Z4's. By the way, what's the name of your shop? Might be worth the summer drive...
  • amagbanuaamagbanua Posts: 2
    I have a '97 Maxima SE with 215/55HR16 Toyo Proxes A05. I heard these tires suck so I'm looking for a new set are tires that combine great handling, quiet ride, decent wet traction, and decent treadwear. Some of tires I've seen that come in my size are: Dunlop SP9000, Dunlop W-10, Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus, Michelin Pilot HX MXM, Goodyear Eagle HP & RS-A, Yokohama Avid H4/V4. As you've noticed some of tires in this list are cheap while others double the price even. Which tire should I get? Thanks in advance.
  • amagbanuaamagbanua Posts: 2
    OOps I forgot to mention Kumho ECSTA Supra 712, and Nitto NT-450 I believe.
  • marbymarby Posts: 34
    This vehicle came stock with 165/70R13 tires.I presently have 165SR13 alias 165/80R13 tires. I have a smoother ride with the 80's almost feels like balloon dune buggy type ride. My question is what would the advantage be to have the 165/80R13 over the 165/70R13 and what would the difference be with 175/70R13
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    The Goodyears are overpriced. They're all-right tires, but not even in the same league as the Michelins, which are similarly priced. Forget the Dunlops and the Yoks. You're looking for the best.
    The Michelin MXV4 Plus and the Pilot HX MXM(4?) are two very different tires. The MXV4 is a luxury touring tire, meaning it will be smooth as glass at very high speeds (over 100), but it won't handle like the Pilot. The Pilot will deliver a slightly harsher ride, but will corner well beyond the limits of your SE's suspension. If you're talking about the HX MXM 4, like the MXV4, it is an all-season tire. The HX MXM is not. If you're looking for outstanding all-season performance, you might want to consider the Pilot XGT V4. You'll probably have to upgrade to a 225/50VR16, but I can't imagine you would be let down by this setup.
  • pttaylorpttaylor Posts: 34
    My 1998 Dakota has ugly factory 15x6 steel wheels on it. I am upgrading to a 15x8 Aluminum styled split-star (Durango) wheel. I presently run 235/75R15 tires. My question is what is the maximum tire size I can run without tire rub??? Thanks -PT
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    Assuming your Dakota is a 4x4, a 31X10.50R15LT is the biggest I would go with. This is the standard size as the Durango and optional on the Dakota. 32X11.50R15LT tires would fit on the rims, but might rub at full lock. And I think they'd look goofy. The 31s fill out the wheel well nicely. If it's off-road capability you seek, the 31" has been the standard for decades.
    Also, if you were to go with a wider 32X11.50 tire, snow traction would be reduced due to the excessive floatation (though you'd fare better in the slop if you're a part of that mud-bogging .05% of truck owners).
    My recommendation would definitely be the 31". If you want serious off-road performance (making your own roads), there is there is the BF Goodrich Mud-Terrain T/A. If you want off-road capability with a decent highway ride, choose the BF Goodrich All-Terrain T/A KO. If you want more of a highway-tuned ride with good off road capability, choose the Michelin LTX A/T. If you want an excellent highway ride while still retaining a degree of off-road capability, choose the Michelin LTX M/S.
    The split-spoke Durango rims require MC type weights. Make sure they have them before you pay them for the balancing.
    You also need to consider your gear ratio. Were the 235s the standard size? If the axle ratios are too distally matched with the tire size, your fuel economy will be adversely affected. With late model Dakotas, you can go from basically any standard size to the 31" without encountering any problems.
  • Anyone have any experience with Pep Boys tires? I have a 96' Nissan 200SX SE-R that came with 195/55R15's and I just bought new tires.

    They are 195/50/R15's Any past history with these tires? I live in Puerto Rico now where the roads are bad an I needed a good replacement tire. The Goodyears that came with the car were a odd size,

    Give me some advice please!!!

  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    Well if I told you what I really thought about Pep Boys' Futura tires, you'd probably regret the purchase, and it's a bit late to do anything about that now.
    Hmmm... positive things... there are worse tires (not many). At least you didn't have to spend a lot of money. They should adequately support your car and probably will hold air for a few years. At least they look cool. The chances of your wheels being stolen has been reduced.
    Not everyone needs good tires. Cheap tires work just fine if you never know the better.
  • ljuiiljuii Posts: 6
    Tireguy - I really like your responses. A few responses back you almost completely talked me into Michelin XGT Z4s for my '99 Mustang Convert (245/45r17). However, I must ask for one more opinion. What do you think of the Dunlop Sport 9000? I've heard some very good comments regarding ride quality and noise level from the reviews over at the Do you think the Dunlops or Michelins would provide a quieter, smoother ride?
  • dumanduman Posts: 53
    what is the widest off road tire i can put on my 2000 chevy z71 stock rims(9"?)
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    Dunlop makes reasonably high quality tires. I'd say that Dunlop is just behind Michelin and BF Goodrich among people who are fanatical about their cars.
    You know what my answer will be to this one. The Dunlop Sport 9000 is a good tire, but... I like the aggressive directional tread (allows water to quickly egress the contact patch), and the solid shoulders (good cornering). However, for the same price, the Michelin will drive much smoother, due to innovations such as BAZ technology (polyamide belts wrapped at zero degrees to the direction of travel for incredible high-speed stability) and the silica compound which is quieter than standard rubber.
    Also, the Michelin is a true all-season tire. You'll notice that the Michelin XGT Z4 has sipes (little cuts) for wet traction enhancement. Usually this diminishes the performance capability of Z-rated tires because it makes the shoulder blocks less stable, but Michelin uses what they call torque-locking sipes which hold together to withstand heavy cornering forces. It also uses a dual-chevron directional tread. With the Dunlops, the single chevron means the water/slush has to go from the center of the tire all the way to the shoulder. The XGT channels the water from the center of the two chevrons to either the shoulder or the wide circumferential groove in the center; the slop never has to travel more than 25% of the width of the contact patch. This, combined with the sipes and the XSE silica compound (which stays flexible at very low temps) make the Michelin much more suitable for winter driving. Things like BAZ technology and torque locking sipes make the XGT a superior performance tire. If the Dunlop were cheaper, there would be a reason to consider it, but not for the same price as the XGT Z4.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    You want to put on 19" or 20"s????? What kind of car do you drive? A 911S or an F40? Note my previous post. The G-Force KDs are awesome, but not all-season (not that I think you plan on driving in the snow). I feel bad for the guy who'll have to mount your tires.
    BBS rims have a legendary reputation for quality.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    I seriously doubt your 2000 Z71 has stock 9" rims. Check the placard on your door. Remember that rim widths are measured from inner bead surface to inner bead surface. If you're measuring from outer bead surface to outer bead surface, you have to figure in the width of the walls. On aluminum truck rims, this is usually more than half an inch.
    Verify it and check back.
  • warnerfwarnerf Posts: 19
    I have a '99 Q45 with Michelin Energy MXV4+. I love the tires but I notice some occasional light vibration at around 80 mph. I went over to America's Tire Co. and had them re-computer balance them. During this time I looked at at least 2 of the tires as they were spinning on the balancer and they appeared to be nearly perfectly round. After this, I still notice occasional vibration under certain road conditions at certain times. The vibration is light and doesn't always occur even on the same road. I'll take a given road one day and it's smooth as silk. That same road on another day and some vibration may occur.
    It seems to happen more during the morning when the car has been parked overnight. Any ideas?

    Thanks in Advance.
  • schaufschauf Posts: 1
    This site seems to have the highest useful information to BS ratio of any of them. I'm finally getting ready to buy a new something in the 2001 model year--probably the OFs' favorite-- a Le Sabre. After reading about probs with General and other original equipment tires--would a dealer let me swap the OE tires for, say, Michelin X-1s before taking delivery? A related subject--the Le Sabre Limited comes with P215/70R-15s, with P225/60R-16s available as part of a GT package; what benefits do the 16 inchers give? Thanks for listening to an inexperienced geezer.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    Why would the dealer do that unless you are paying for the new tires? The tires that come off that car are used so he can't do much with them. If you don't like the Generals, change them after you take delivery.
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    The 16s put more rubber in contact with the road giving you better grip. The side wall height is probably close on both those sizes so no obvious advantage due to the 60 series size. In summary, better handling should be expected especially when part of a handling package that includes suspension upgrades to the springs, shocks, roll bars, bushings, etc.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    I would say that either your technician didn't balance them right or you have a slight toe misalignment. Have you hit any potholes? Remember rubbing against any curbs in U-turns? Check to see if the wear across your tire is uneven. If you notice that both tires are wore on the outside only or the inside only, you might want to have the alignment checked.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    Also, you might want to rotate the tires to isolate the problem either with the tires or the suspension/steering components.
  • tireguytireguy Posts: 200
    If you choose to have the dealer swap tires, if they will do it, they usually give you something like 50% credit (of the old tires) toward the new tires. You might end up paying more for the upgrade than if you had just driven the car to a discount tire shop and purchased them straight out. This is your best option: just buy the tires you want (Michelin X-One/X-Radial Plus would be best), then sell the old tires in the classified ads. You should have no problem getting $150 for the set of four (the retail is around $250 for a set of four General G4S.
    Upgrading to the 225/60R16 will enhance the performance of the vehicle, first by being wider and also by having a 5% lower profile. By going with this size, your Buick will most likely be spec'd with Goodyear Eagles (no fans in this forum) which are better than the Generals (not saying much). However, when the time comes to replace the tires, expect to pay around 20%-25% more for the 16"s.
    Unless you take exit ramps at twice the marked speed, you'll probably benefit more--as a Buick driver--from the 15". They will give you a softer ride due to the taller sidewall. They usually last longer, too.
    But the 16"s look cooler.
  • frag235frag235 Posts: 81
    Will Mich X-ones give me a quieter ride then the MXV4 pluses I have now? Since the X's are T-rated, will handling suffer? (I have a late model Accord)
  • l943973l943973 Posts: 197
    Had a 91 5-speed Integra with Michelin MXV4 tires. Initially the tires were great. After 40k miles, they seem to lose their grip a lot in the rain. My tires would lose traction when accelerating from a traffic light and hydroplan a lot in the rain. As a result, I ended up driving a lot slower in the rain. In the snow, these tires were horrible. I would come to a stop in the snow and could feel the rear end of the car slide. I would never recommend these tires.

    I switched over the Pirelli P4000s. They gripped better overall, but were very noisy. The ride was also a lot stiffer. Worked better than the Michelin MXV in the snow. About the same in the rain.

    Switched over to Dunlop D60A2 JLB. Very quiet tire. Handling was better than the Michelin and Pirelli. Quieter than the Michelin and Pirelli. Excellent in the snow. They only shortcoming is that they wear down faster then the other 2. Had to switch to new sets around 35k-40k miles. I liked the Dunlop D60A2s so much that I purchased them after wearing down the first set.

    I now have a 99RL with Michelin MXV Energy OEM and they are pretty quiet. They are noisy when you drive across bridges where its concrete and not tar paved. I'll be looking at new set soon and will probably go with either the Dunlop D60A2 again or the Bridgestone Turanza or Revo. I heard the Bridgestones mentioned are very quiet tires with decent handling. My only concern with the Bridgestone is that they are pretty expensive compared to Dunlops. I purchased Dunlops for $58/tire at NTB.

    Are there any other tires that give and excellent quiet ride with average handling. I heard Goodyears are not to quiet. Not sure how good the Yokohama AVS db? are quiet or not.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • dgeminidgemini Posts: 161
    Thinks for the response in regards to Pep Boys tires. I haven't been to this site in a while so I know this is a long time coming.

    It is looking like I will order tires from Tire Rack. It is just hard to beat there prices. I will probably get the VR4s, but I am thinking about the KDWs. I am concerned about the KDWs since the snow we had in NC last year. How would they do in snow?
  • marbymarby Posts: 34
    These tires sold at WAL-MART are they any good?
  • popeepopee Posts: 3
    The tires that came on my brand new GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 are Firestone Wilderness AT P265/75R16 and are terrible. They feel squishy, if that is a word, and they look like street tires. Bad choice by GM for an OEM tire.

    Here is my question: I want to upgrade to a better handling and more aggressive looking tire. I have it narrowed down to three choices. The BFG AT Ko, The Michelin LTX AT, or the Yokohama Geolander AT+. To be honest, I do about 99% Highway, and 1% off-roading. I live in Las Vegas, and don't have to worry about much rain, or any snow. A quiet ride is important but not mandatory, an aggressive look is important. (Remember, I am trying to be honest here).
    What would the panel of experts recommend, especially TireGuy, who, after reading his posts, is very much admired by me.
    Thanks in advance for the info.

  • I have a set of national 4000's on my car. They have less than 25,000 miles and are 2 years old. They have hairline/spiderweb type cracks running through the tires. Is this normal? Thanks!
  • chiangjchiangj Posts: 17
    I got a nail in my left rear tire last week(probably Thursday). I noticed that last Saturday. I took my 2000 Mazda MPV (~4200km) for tire repair this Monday. On the same morning after the repair, I drove my car to work with no problem. On Tuesday, when I left the office in the evening and I found the same tire was flat again. I have to change spare tire for it. I took my car to the dealer Wednesday morning. They said they don't know why the material seems not glue to its correct place. And they fix it for me. Everything seems fine till Friday morning, I check the tire pressure and it fall from 33psi to 20psi in one night. My impression is that the dealer did not do a proper job on that because I knew it was only a small nail. I intend to take my car (tire) for the dealer to repair tomorrow but I personally lost confidence in the repair. In my second repair, the dealer has said I may have to replace the tire if it flat again! Any suggestion for what I should do? The interesting is that I can see something has glue on the tire tread after the repair. I don't think it should be there.

  • joe166joe166 Posts: 401
    There are two methods of repairing punctures. One is to plug it. That requires reaming out the hole and pushing a plug from the outside of the tire through the original puncture to the inside. The plug is saturated with rubber glue. This works MOST of the time, but it is not the preferred way to do it. The major advantage is that you don't need to remove the tire from the rim (although you probably should remove it from the car). The disadvantage is that you can't prepare the inside of the tire and it might not hold as well. Some think it will eventually give way so it is not considered by some to be anything but an emergency procedure which can be done on the side of the road. The preferred way is to remove the tire, scrape all foreign material from the inside of the tire where the hole was and then patch it from the inside by pulling a plug that has a patch behind it from the inside out. Then the patch itself is rolled with a tool that really makes it stick. With this method, preparation is the key. As anyone that has tried to glue anything can tell you, it doesn't always work if the surface to be glued is dirty or has some foreign matter on it. Another problem is if the hole is not right in the middle of the tread, then the patch will have to "bend" in the shape of the tire and it is much harder to roll the patch. With both methods, some form of rubber and glue comes out the hole and either wears off level with the tread or is cut off and then wears off. This could have the appearance of "glue" or stickum because the plug is made of soft rubber to conform to the hole. It is not always possible to patch holes in tires, although the ones you can't patch are few and far between. They may be doing the best they can, but if they did not tell you it was going to be really tough, complain loudly and long and demand that they do right by you. What would be right? I don't know, but start with either fix it or give me a new tire if you have ruined it so it can't be fixed. Be prepared to come down from that to keep fixing it, but I think there is a limit to how many times you can let them fiddle around with it. Go to a TIRE STORE and see what they say. You aren't talking about the national debt, or a tobacco lawsuit here. What could it cost to fix a tire? $10 or $20 is not much for peace of mind. If you get it fixed somewhere else, you should certainly demand your money back. They didn't do anything to earn it. On the other hand, it isn't something to go to court about. Good luck
  • chiangjchiangj Posts: 17
    Thanks, Joe166.
  • ignorant1ignorant1 Posts: 4
    i need to replace the OE tires for a Dodge Stratus '98. The OE size is 195-70- R14 and i want to change them to 205 or 215-60-R14. The only stuff gets me confused is which brands are the best: Michelin, Goodyear, BF Goodrich, Bridgestone, Firestone, Dunlop, Pirelli, Yokohama, Toyo, Sumitomo, Kuhmo, etc. I want a AAA all season touring tire for safest rides. Could anybody help me rank these tires?
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    You can probably find a tire that fits your criteria in any of the brands you mentioned. As long as price is not part of it. As soon as you start looking for the best value, you will have a big big headache. Unless you keep it simple.

    I am going to give you some criteria to keep it simple. Take them or leave them.

    1. I am not going to drive all over town (that knocks out most of the foreign brands)
    2. I am not going to agonize over performance issues because the data to decide the differences is not available
    3. My price range is going to be $75 - $100 (anything under $75 is getting mediocre and over $100 is into performance that can't really be used on public roads)
    4. Your best local pricing is probably at BJ's or SAM's (the other local tire outfits can't compete in price)

    For me this turns out to be SAM's. And as Tireguy was fond of preaching, Michelins are a no-brainer for the best quality.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I've had two new trucks that came with Michelins on them and I never want another set. Granted, they were like iron but the also handle like iron when it gets wet out there. Forget about it when it snows, they are all over the place. We take them off our new ambulances as soon as we get the rig home and put on Goodyears. Every other volunteer ambulance corp in our county does the same.
    I tow a fifth wheel and everyone else I know who tows feels the same. If you want a tire that will run 60k and you don't care about traction, get Michelins. If you value your neck get something with a softer tread compound that will stick to the wet roads.
  • nelconelco Posts: 1
    I'm thinking of buying a new Honda coupe EX V6. The Bridgestone Turanza tires are criticized by car mags. Any recommendations on upgrades for cornering grip (in So Cal) Dunlop D60?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    For anyone that's interested. There's an article in USA Today about some auto safety group attempting to get FORD to recall all their trucks equipped w/bridgestone tires. It states that the treads has a tendency of coming off the tire & causing accidents. There were 95 reported cases of treads coming off the tires. Just something to keep in mind
  • hengheng Posts: 411
    That's interesting info for Michelin truck tires. It is not true for passenger car tires.
  • warfishwarfish Posts: 117
    I believe the tires that are being investigated are Firestone ATX, ATX II and Wilderness AT models, not Bridgestones. I know, Bridgestone owns Firestone, but the tires are not the same. Just like Michelin owning BF Goodrich tires and lots of other conglomerates own other companies.
    I don't call my Dodge a Merceres any more than an owner of a Jaguar would call it a Ford.
    I'm really glad I didn't opt for the Firestones when I was looking for tires a while back, the ones in question were being considered.
  • locomo0locomo0 Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 1990 4 Runner 4WD with some Goodyear Wrangler RT/S 31X10.5 R 15 LT (man that's a mouthful) The spare's a 225/75/R-15.
    I will go off road but only occasionally at drilling rig sites. The 4WD should be plenty on those occasions. I'm thinking of going with some 225 or 235's because I have to drive mainly around town and about once a month from Memphis to Houston and back (1200 mile total). I'm more interested in on road handling(wet and dry) and highway comfort in that order. Any suggestions on which tires I should get? Oh and if TireGuy is still out there, the local Sam's has a Michelin X Radial LT. Is this a Sam's only tire, and if it is which "regular" Mich. does it correspond to? Thanx in advance.
  • I have a '98 Z71 and plan to put some mud grips on my truck this Fall. I do most of my driving in town, but want the ability to go off road. I do not want a hard core mud grip like Buckshots, but do want an aggressive tread. Anyone have any suggestions? I am looking at the Bridgestone M/T, the Cooper Discover and the Dunlop Mud Rover. Does anyone know anything about these tires or have any recommendations? Thanks!
  • Try and read the reviews other customers have on the tires your looking at. I tried some Michelin LTX m/s tires for my Blazer after reading the reviews and also Consumer Reports and love them. Both seem to be close in their observations. Good Luck!
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